I’ve made many day to night conversions using your technique. One even won a Guru award at last year’s Photoshop World. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the technique so well.
You cannot understand how happy your comment makes me feel, for you to have learnt my technique and put it to good use to then have won an award, wow, thank you 😀
Jamie, I love your long form tutorials. The Day to Night on this image was stunning,especially what you started with and then achieved!! Always love your window work. The shadow below the lamppost was a great tutorial addition. Thanks for your time, inspiration, and creative eye.
Hey Cindy, thank you so much for your kind words and taking the time to leave a comment, it is very much appreciated. I do get a lot of feedback saying that my videos should be shorter, but I also get, like from you, thanks for the longer form tutorials. I think in the future I may start to do a few shorter ones mixed in :-D
Thanks Jamie for another very instructive tutorial. The result is convincing. Even the addition of the stars, which would not normally be visible with the moon present somehow works. My only suggestion is that the spires/towers of the cathedral could benefit from some extra highlighting to match the main structure.
Thanks for the feedback, this image was picked as it was extremely challenging, the very high contrast other scene makes for a very difficult transformation, however, if I had shot the scene in a lower contrast situation the towers would have been easier to balance. With a little more time it would have been possible to correct every element of the image, but I was already at 1.5 hours 😀
Much more dramatic than if you had taken the photo at night time. Incredible work, especially considering the photo you started with--a bright sunny day with high contrast. A very dynamic piece of photographic art, full of mystery. A pleasure just to look at.
Jamie, your attention to detail is unbelievable 👍 have you ever had someone ask you if your lighting technique is fake? I don’t believe it is, I actually think it is better than the real thing, adding more detail! Well done, Mike
Hi Mike, thank you for your kind words. I have had the odd one or two people say they did not like my technique but on the whole, I get good feedback. But we have to understand that everybody sees the world differently, so I always thank them for their comments regardless if they are negative 😀
Learning a lot watching your videos and I hope to continue to refine my Day to Night techniques. I really appreciate your efforts! Having lots of fun with this!!!
Another superb conversion Jamie. Love your attention to detail, it may seem over the top, but makes a real difference to the overall image. Many thanks for taking the time to put these tutorials out. Always look forward to your videos.
Jamie, the more routine, the more perfect the results, you are definitely the master of d2n conversion. - Some hints in return, at 7:22, create stack doesn’t hide the original raw file “under” the denoised dng, it simply groups the both files. At 39:14 the optimal method is to use “Flatten image”, that also works if there are many layers. Adobe recommends generally to use.psd instead of .tiff, as I see it, there are pros and cons on this matter.
Thanks for your comment and tips, all good points. I have played in detail with both .PSD and .TIFF files to try to understand the difference in regard to colour depth, detail, file size etc and I am unable to find any measurable difference, however, let's see if following Adobe's recommendation causes any issue, I will change going forward and report back if I find any problems 😀
@@jamiermathlin FYC: Flatten image automatically creates a Background layer, that’s a special type of layer, like the one you get initially opening a raw file. - That psd has advantages over tif, I got watching an Adobe live event in 2016 or so (can’t remember what exactly that was), Aaron Nace from Phlearn doing some live editing together with a guy from the Adobe staff. Aaron was until then also using tif, but the Adobe guy said during the show, to retain all functionality, he (Aaron) should use psd file format. The differences I personally could figure out are, as you mentioned, not image quality related, it’s psd max files size is 2 GB, if it’s larger you must switch to psb (PhotoShopBig), tif max. files size is 4 GB. I just can make a guess, maybe there are some Photoshop features (3D stuff or so 🤷♂️?) which only can be saved into a psd/psb file but not into a tif.
Another excellent video. Many others I wouldn't even consider watching at this length, but yours are packed with interest and information, and I look forward to every one. Please keep doing what you're doing!
Hi Jamie, another great tutorial. Question: if I do a generative fill and do not like any of the results, or change my mind, how do I exit the generative fill dialog and go back to the image's state prior to the selection? The only thing I see to do is a series of Ctrl+Z commands to achieve this. Any thoughts?
Hi David, I just use the command/control Z just to undo it, but you can always delete the layer if you are in Photoshop, otherwise in Lightroom you can just change the remove tool to a different one if you want more options. 😀
Luminar Neo is great for a number of effects and a few different ways of editing, however, the masking capabilities of Neo do not come close to Lightroom, and it would take me a great deal more time to complete this image. Sadly this video was already quite long, otherwise, I would have gone over to Neo to apply a few effects, such as lighting and mystify. I hope this answer is helpful 😀
Do you have any parameters you try to follow to get your day to night candidate images ? Meaning do you only try and take images in the morning ?, later in the afternoon ?, or does the time of day really not matter.
This is a very good question, and it can be answered in two ways, firstly day-to-night can be applied to almost any photograph, taken at any time of the day, however, the more contrast you have the more difficult it can be (as can be seen from this image), secondly, if you have the time and patients, then you can try to capture the best conditions for day to night, which as you implied is generally dawn and dust conditions, also lower contrast, such as cloudy skies, when it is raining, or best of all just after it has stopped raining are the perfect conditions. I hope that answered your question :-)
I’ve made many day to night conversions using your technique. One even won a Guru award at last year’s Photoshop World. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the technique so well.
You cannot understand how happy your comment makes me feel, for you to have learnt my technique and put it to good use to then have won an award, wow, thank you 😀
Jamie, I love your long form tutorials. The Day to Night on this image was stunning,especially what you started with and then achieved!! Always love your window work. The shadow below the lamppost was a great tutorial addition. Thanks for your time, inspiration, and creative eye.
Hey Cindy, thank you so much for your kind words and taking the time to leave a comment, it is very much appreciated. I do get a lot of feedback saying that my videos should be shorter, but I also get, like from you, thanks for the longer form tutorials. I think in the future I may start to do a few shorter ones mixed in :-D
Another masterpiece in editing! I really enjoy these and thank you for putting them together.
You are very welcome Mark, and thank you for taking the time to leave a comment, it is very much appreciated 😀
Thanks Jamie for another very instructive tutorial. The result is convincing. Even the addition of the stars, which would not normally be visible with the moon present somehow works. My only suggestion is that the spires/towers of the cathedral could benefit from some extra highlighting to match the main structure.
Thanks for the feedback, this image was picked as it was extremely challenging, the very high contrast other scene makes for a very difficult transformation, however, if I had shot the scene in a lower contrast situation the towers would have been easier to balance. With a little more time it would have been possible to correct every element of the image, but I was already at 1.5 hours 😀
Thanks so much Jamie... I've been waiting for cloudy days to take my photos!
😀
Great tutorial and a wonderful job well done. Just found your channel and subscribed. Looking forward to learning your techniques.
Take a Look back over my previous 90 plus videos, there is a lot to enjoy 😀
very good with some great tips
thank you 😀
Much more dramatic than if you had taken the photo at night time. Incredible work, especially considering the photo you started with--a bright sunny day with high contrast. A very dynamic piece of photographic art, full of mystery. A pleasure just to look at.
Thank you Marlin, I aways try to create something a little different, unique and have a lot of fun doing it 😀
Thank You! Learning each time
I am very happy to hear that you find my videos educational 😀
Jamie, your attention to detail is unbelievable 👍 have you ever had someone ask you if your lighting technique is fake? I don’t believe it is, I actually think it is better than the real thing, adding more detail! Well done, Mike
Hi Mike, thank you for your kind words. I have had the odd one or two people say they did not like my technique but on the whole, I get good feedback. But we have to understand that everybody sees the world differently, so I always thank them for their comments regardless if they are negative 😀
Learning a lot watching your videos and I hope to continue to refine my Day to Night techniques. I really appreciate your efforts! Having lots of fun with this!!!
Thanks Wayne, you and me both having fun 😀
Thanks 🙏
😀
Your skills are crazy good. Absolutely astounding what you can do.
Thank you Darrell, your kind words are very much appreciated 😀
Another superb conversion Jamie. Love your attention to detail, it may seem over the top, but makes a real difference to the overall image. Many thanks for taking the time to put these tutorials out. Always look forward to your videos.
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment, your kind words are very much appreciated 😀
Another cracking video and stunning photo, excellent as always, have used many of your tips on my photos, especially the lanterns. Thank you
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment and your kind words, they are very much appreciated 😀
Jamie, the more routine, the more perfect the results, you are definitely the master of d2n conversion. - Some hints in return, at 7:22, create stack doesn’t hide the original raw file “under” the denoised dng, it simply groups the both files. At 39:14 the optimal method is to use “Flatten image”, that also works if there are many layers. Adobe recommends generally to use.psd instead of .tiff, as I see it, there are pros and cons on this matter.
Thanks for your comment and tips, all good points. I have played in detail with both .PSD and .TIFF files to try to understand the difference in regard to colour depth, detail, file size etc and I am unable to find any measurable difference, however, let's see if following Adobe's recommendation causes any issue, I will change going forward and report back if I find any problems 😀
@@jamiermathlin FYC: Flatten image automatically creates a Background layer, that’s a special type of layer, like the one you get initially opening a raw file. - That psd has advantages over tif, I got watching an Adobe live event in 2016 or so (can’t remember what exactly that was), Aaron Nace from Phlearn doing some live editing together with a guy from the Adobe staff. Aaron was until then also using tif, but the Adobe guy said during the show, to retain all functionality, he (Aaron) should use psd file format. The differences I personally could figure out are, as you mentioned, not image quality related, it’s psd max files size is 2 GB, if it’s larger you must switch to psb (PhotoShopBig), tif max. files size is 4 GB. I just can make a guess, maybe there are some Photoshop features (3D stuff or so 🤷♂️?) which only can be saved into a psd/psb file but not into a tif.
Another excellent video. Many others I wouldn't even consider watching at this length, but yours are packed with interest and information, and I look forward to every one. Please keep doing what you're doing!
Thanks for your kind words, I am never sure whether to keep them long or go for shorter videos, I am going to try a few at 15-20mins 😀
Hi Jamie, another great tutorial. Question: if I do a generative fill and do not like any of the results, or change my mind, how do I exit the generative fill dialog and go back to the image's state prior to the selection? The only thing I see to do is a series of Ctrl+Z commands to achieve this. Any thoughts?
Hi David, I just use the command/control Z just to undo it, but you can always delete the layer if you are in Photoshop, otherwise in Lightroom you can just change the remove tool to a different one if you want more options. 😀
@@jamiermathlin Thanks for the reply, Jamie. Maybe a "cancel" button on the generative fill dialog box might be in the next upgrade, LOL.
@@davidletz9123 who knows what wonders we will be gifted 😀
Your videos are great as always. I know you use Luminar as well,Would you demonstrate this type of edit using Luminar Neo?
Luminar Neo is great for a number of effects and a few different ways of editing, however, the masking capabilities of Neo do not come close to Lightroom, and it would take me a great deal more time to complete this image. Sadly this video was already quite long, otherwise, I would have gone over to Neo to apply a few effects, such as lighting and mystify. I hope this answer is helpful 😀
OK.
😀
Do you have any parameters you try to follow to get your day to night candidate images ? Meaning do you only try and take images in the morning ?, later in the afternoon ?, or does the time of day really not matter.
This is a very good question, and it can be answered in two ways, firstly day-to-night can be applied to almost any photograph, taken at any time of the day, however, the more contrast you have the more difficult it can be (as can be seen from this image), secondly, if you have the time and patients, then you can try to capture the best conditions for day to night, which as you implied is generally dawn and dust conditions, also lower contrast, such as cloudy skies, when it is raining, or best of all just after it has stopped raining are the perfect conditions. I hope that answered your question :-)