Never had any issues with ticking or bore scoring on my 2005 997.1 Carerra S, now passing 118000 miles unopened engine, change your oil every 5000 miles, my oil analysis have been consistent the last 8 years in my ownership, i bought the car with 62000 miles on the clock, installed the Low.temp termostat (a must have on these cars) borescoped in 2020 for the second time through the pan, spotless, and i never go over 4000 rpm. before i reach OIL temperature (200 F) I track the car hard, and had several hundred miles on the German Autobahn. And totally Agree on additives DONT USE IT NEVER Use Porsche A40 certified oil, i only use 5W-40 A40
Thanks so much for this, been very paranoid over the bore scoring… clearly if you just take special care of the car and engine, shouldn’t be too much of a problem. ❤
Thank you, agree changing oil at least annually. The two year change schedule from Porsche is too long. I purchased a great bore scope from Amazon, plugs into my iPhone and was only $30. Has two cameras on it, forward and side facing, the side facing camera makes it easy to see the cylinder walls.
I really appreciate the no nonsense content you put out. As a technician myself I cannot tell you great it is to have technical issues explained to the common viewer and it makes sense to them. As always looking forward to next video.
I always like to get input on this subject. I have oil analysis done at every oil change (997.1 C2). The best wear #'s for alum, iron, and copper have been using 5w-50. That said, I am using a plant based oil right now (Evolve EvoSyn 0w-40) and am really happy with it. Never any smoke at any point, better mpg's, nice smooth quiet cold starts. I wish they made a 5w-50! Thanks for the content!
@@joshrandall8364 Yep, the 5w-50 I used was the MolyGen too. Great stuff! In this oil go-round, I also put in CeraTec with the Evolve. Thinking that will also be a winning combo. I also use ASL Camguard to protect better for cold starts. Noticed better mpg's with the CeraTec immediately.
Look into Redline 0w40. At 100C it's barely thinner than most 5w50 and considerably thicker than many 5w40. Don't have to worry about cold starts either. It's kind of a perfect viscosity for performance engines rated around those grades, especially for moderately cold climate. That being said, for extremely hot climate, I would probably go with Reline 5w40 since the car will not see any cold mornings and there's no reason to have those viscosity modifiers. You will get a benefit of the oil being even thicker at operating temps too.
I’ve watched this video a number of times, mainly because I like your style, but in case I missed it, how exactly do you fix it for free, or was this just click bait?
How about a loud clanging sound and not a ticking? 986 2.5 I thought at first was a failing lifter, but now its like a clang more than a tick and feels catastrophic. I see the shop that did the last oil change appears to have over filled (by 500ml) so I am going to relieve some of that, but I can't see how this or anything would create a huge CLANK sound. Thoughts? Update: sticking exhaust valve. Solved myself with some hours and perseverance
These engines don’t have a steel liner with hard coating… it’s Lokasil on bare aluminium, which, together with the open deck configuration, makes the cylinders go oval very easily.
6 месяцев назад
Hi Nathan. I got a 955. With a tick in top end. Sounds like cyl no 7. I am in Alberta Canada. 0W40 weight oil every 5000 miles. Oil is at the correct level. Doesn't use oil. Doesn't smoke. No codes. Sound is mostly at idle and under load. Goes away 2200-2500 RPM. Sounds like a lifter as it is definitely up top.. I checked the VVT solenoid and that works correctly. Timing chain guide? Timing Chain tensioner?
For me its the lifters. Usually after a long MN winter. Baby it until the car is warmed up and then drive it at 5k rpm for 20-30 seconds and the ticking is gone.
Using Mobil1 0w40, I always had ticking if i started the car after 1 week. Started using DT40 on my 997.1 and it stopped ticking on cold starts. Even if I start the car after 2 weeks, it doesn't tick
Hello Nathans, Thank you very much for your videos.My name is Paulo I'm from Portugal , and I would like you advice please. I Have a 718 T with 70K Km with warranty still. I Bought a COBB with stage 1 93 octane (here we have 93 everywhere) and i'm not driving on track, I'm driving only only weekends , and this 30Hp makes the car a bit spicy. I Have some fellows here advising me to take the COBB out because of engine or gearbox problems. I'm not driving on hedge, i wait until the engine gets warm , and some times i push just a bit. I have also read that they are very conservative on the tune and it is same , but ? I Would like your opinion as expert, on these matter , if it was your car do you keep it or take it away. Tanks you very much for your opinion , King regards Paulo
Porsche did not use "soft steel' cylinder liners in these engines as the steel would expand at a different rate and fracture the aluminium alloy blocks and gasket failure as tried by Hartech UK in the past who now use aluminium liners with the still not perfect nikosil plating on an aluminium liner. Porsche used silicone 'particles' impregnated in the Aluminium bore surface with the lokisil process being worse than the nikosil plating process but both are susceptible to bore scoring once the alloy pistons lose their anti-friction layer and and wear into alloy to alloy contact which is pretty much the end stage before a very expensive engine rebuild.
Great channel. Thanx Nathan. Got a 2006 987.1 Cayman S. Do you or anyone know about steering wheel "upgrade"? Got the T-shape steering wheel but would like to have the more modern metal spoke with if possible Alcantara. Some ppl say Macan works, or even 997.1 steering wheels. Done my "Googling" but still nothing clear. Question nr2: Mobil1 5W-40 ....OK for climate like here in Sweden....? Guess climate here is more like Canada. Not going to use my Cayman S in winter time though.
If your not using the car in the winter that will be just fine. If you do choose to use the car @ or below freezing then you'll need the 0W40 for the pumpability the 0 weight allows.
@@warrenlucier5796 OK Thanx. Got other SUV:s for winter. This works all around the year no matter, but my previous 911 Targa 1980 was never a "winter-car"..so maybe I am still in that thought.
My 996 would always tick a little in the lifters if it was running Mobil 1, when I replaced it with Penrite HPR 5 5W-40, it was always very quiet. Penrite 5W-40 for the win for me at least. Ticking lifters seemed largely a viscosity thing imho
HPR5 5w40 is absolutely great for my Australian 2004 996, great oil pressure, oil temps and sound of engine are great with this oil. Tonnes of Zinc in the mix.... Totally agree
Have you ever tried BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner? Don't get me wrong, BG is mostly snake oil, but their cleaner works wonders. There are a plethora of videos on RUclips here that show you the before and after. I first started using it on sludgy Audis and VW with good success. Then I tried it on my personal 991. It worked like a charm. Cured the lifter tick problem. I started offering it on my customer cars. The product is not cheap, but it DOES work. After I don't flush, I recommend 5w-40 Liqui Moly every 7k intervals. Your engine will thank you for it.
My 987 would tick for less than 30 seconds if it had been sitting for a while. And once in a great while it would blow out white smoke at start up, nothing to worry about
Completely disagree. I have a 997 turbo and supercharged Rover. Both had engine ticking/tapping and overall noise. Did a liquimoly engine flush for both, filled with oil and ceratec/lifter additive. Amazing how quiet the engines became. The turbo has inherent noise, but improved. The rover was night and day.
Between the IMS and the bore scoring, it's just not worth the risk of a complete rebuild. The car would be mechanically totaled. That's why I went with the 981.
Авто/Мото
Never had any issues with ticking or bore scoring on my 2005 997.1 Carerra S, now passing 118000 miles unopened engine, change your oil every 5000 miles, my oil analysis have been consistent the last 8 years in my ownership, i bought the car with 62000 miles on the clock, installed the Low.temp termostat (a must have on these cars) borescoped in 2020 for the second time through the pan, spotless, and i never go over 4000 rpm. before i reach OIL temperature (200 F) I track the car hard, and had several hundred miles on the German Autobahn. And totally Agree on additives DONT USE IT NEVER Use Porsche A40 certified oil, i only use 5W-40 A40
Thanks so much for this, been very paranoid over the bore scoring… clearly if you just take special care of the car and engine, shouldn’t be too much of a problem. ❤
Thank you, agree changing oil at least annually. The two year change schedule from Porsche is too long.
I purchased a great bore scope from Amazon, plugs into my iPhone and was only $30. Has two cameras on it, forward and side facing, the side facing camera makes it easy to see the cylinder walls.
I really appreciate the no nonsense content you put out. As a technician myself I cannot tell you great it is to have technical issues explained to the common viewer and it makes sense to them. As always looking forward to next video.
Great to see that Nathan has graced us with his presence again.
Great to see the I again.
Glad you are still kicking and ready to help us mere mortals!
Glad to see you. You are right it is very hard to get people that know what they are doing. We call them part swappers. Great video
Keep it up. Your content is amazing man. It helps a lot
Great video. Very informative. Keep them coming. Happy Motoring!
Hey, great to see you posting
Excellent content as always💯👍💯👍💯👍
Great to see you again.
Another great Porsche vid
Keep um coming
New subscriber. That was great !
Thanks for the valuable information.
I use the LIquimoly Molygen 5w40, it seems to be very happy less engine noise and runs very smooth oh and changing the plugs and coils help too.
I always like to get input on this subject. I have oil analysis done at every oil change (997.1 C2). The best wear #'s for alum, iron, and copper have been using 5w-50. That said, I am using a plant based oil right now (Evolve EvoSyn 0w-40) and am really happy with it. Never any smoke at any point, better mpg's, nice smooth quiet cold starts. I wish they made a 5w-50! Thanks for the content!
Using liqui-moly molygen 5w-50 on my colder climate area 996. Paired it with cerratech as well. It's wild cause it's literally green.
@@joshrandall8364 Yep, the 5w-50 I used was the MolyGen too. Great stuff! In this oil go-round, I also put in CeraTec with the Evolve. Thinking that will also be a winning combo. I also use ASL Camguard to protect better for cold starts. Noticed better mpg's with the CeraTec immediately.
Warms a 997 heart
Look into Redline 0w40. At 100C it's barely thinner than most 5w50 and considerably thicker than many 5w40. Don't have to worry about cold starts either. It's kind of a perfect viscosity for performance engines rated around those grades, especially for moderately cold climate. That being said, for extremely hot climate, I would probably go with Reline 5w40 since the car will not see any cold mornings and there's no reason to have those viscosity modifiers. You will get a benefit of the oil being even thicker at operating temps too.
I’ve watched this video a number of times, mainly because I like your style, but in case I missed it, how exactly do you fix it for free, or was this just click bait?
How about a loud clanging sound and not a ticking?
986 2.5 I thought at first was a failing lifter, but now its like a clang more than a tick and feels catastrophic. I see the shop that did the last oil change appears to have over filled (by 500ml) so I am going to relieve some of that, but I can't see how this or anything would create a huge CLANK sound.
Thoughts?
Update: sticking exhaust valve.
Solved myself with some hours and perseverance
These engines don’t have a steel liner with hard coating… it’s Lokasil on bare aluminium, which, together with the open deck configuration, makes the cylinders go oval very easily.
Hi Nathan. I got a 955. With a tick in top end. Sounds like cyl no 7. I am in Alberta Canada. 0W40 weight oil every 5000 miles. Oil is at the correct level. Doesn't use oil. Doesn't smoke. No codes. Sound is mostly at idle and under load. Goes away 2200-2500 RPM. Sounds like a lifter as it is definitely up top.. I checked the VVT solenoid and that works correctly. Timing chain guide? Timing Chain tensioner?
You the man!
For me its the lifters. Usually after a long MN winter. Baby it until the car is warmed up and then drive it at 5k rpm for 20-30 seconds and the ticking is gone.
Using Mobil1 0w40, I always had ticking if i started the car after 1 week. Started using DT40 on my 997.1 and it stopped ticking on cold starts. Even if I start the car after 2 weeks, it doesn't tick
Hello Nathans, Thank you very much for your videos.My name is Paulo I'm from Portugal , and I would like you advice please.
I Have a 718 T with 70K Km with warranty still.
I Bought a COBB with stage 1 93 octane (here we have 93 everywhere) and i'm not driving on track, I'm driving only only weekends , and this 30Hp makes the car a bit spicy.
I Have some fellows here advising me to take the COBB out because of engine or gearbox problems. I'm not driving on hedge, i wait until the engine gets warm , and some times i push just a bit.
I have also read that they are very conservative on the tune and it is same , but ?
I Would like your opinion as expert, on these matter , if it was your car do you keep it or take it away.
Tanks you very much for your opinion ,
King regards
Paulo
The dreaded tick , its the new IMS .
Totally agree on the engine flush thing though ,,, totally.
Porsche did not use "soft steel' cylinder liners in these engines as the steel would expand at a different rate and fracture the aluminium alloy blocks and gasket failure as tried by Hartech UK in the past who now use aluminium liners with the still not perfect nikosil plating on an aluminium liner.
Porsche used silicone 'particles' impregnated in the Aluminium bore surface with the lokisil process being worse than the nikosil plating process but both are susceptible to bore scoring once the alloy pistons lose their anti-friction layer and and wear into alloy to alloy contact which is pretty much the end stage before a very expensive engine rebuild.
Is this guy related to Jean-Claude Van Damme?
Hi Nathan. Can you talk about the 957 V8?
Great channel. Thanx Nathan. Got a 2006 987.1 Cayman S. Do you or anyone know about steering wheel "upgrade"? Got the T-shape steering wheel but would like to have the more modern metal spoke with if possible Alcantara. Some ppl say Macan works, or even 997.1 steering wheels. Done my "Googling" but still nothing clear. Question nr2: Mobil1 5W-40 ....OK for climate like here in Sweden....? Guess climate here is more like Canada. Not going to use my Cayman S in winter time though.
If your not using the car in the winter that will be just fine. If you do choose to use the car @ or below freezing then you'll need the 0W40 for the pumpability the 0 weight allows.
@@warrenlucier5796 OK Thanx. Got other SUV:s for winter. This works all around the year no matter, but my previous 911 Targa 1980 was never a "winter-car"..so maybe I am still in that thought.
Love the plates 😅
My 996 would always tick a little in the lifters if it was running Mobil 1, when I replaced it with Penrite HPR 5 5W-40, it was always very quiet. Penrite 5W-40 for the win for me at least.
Ticking lifters seemed largely a viscosity thing imho
HPR5 5w40 is absolutely great for my Australian 2004 996, great oil pressure, oil temps and sound of engine are great with this oil. Tonnes of Zinc in the mix.... Totally agree
@@gregjones92 exactly. Sydneysider here, Sadly no longer have my 2002 Targa
Have you ever tried BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner? Don't get me wrong, BG is mostly snake oil, but their cleaner works wonders. There are a plethora of videos on RUclips here that show you the before and after. I first started using it on sludgy Audis and VW with good success. Then I tried it on my personal 991. It worked like a charm. Cured the lifter tick problem. I started offering it on my customer cars. The product is not cheap, but it DOES work. After I don't flush, I recommend 5w-40 Liqui Moly every 7k intervals. Your engine will thank you for it.
So if it ticks in cold but not in warm? What should it be?
I’m a big fan of the early Z cars, zero issues.
5-50 for my 996.2 is perfect. 5/40 for my 996.1's is perfect. All have X51 oil pans and Ultimas AOS setups. 10 quarts.
My 987 would tick for less than 30 seconds if it had been sitting for a while. And once in a great while it would blow out white smoke at start up, nothing to worry about
Completely disagree. I have a 997 turbo and supercharged Rover. Both had engine ticking/tapping and overall noise. Did a liquimoly engine flush for both, filled with oil and ceratec/lifter additive.
Amazing how quiet the engines became. The turbo has inherent noise, but improved. The rover was night and day.
How’s the tick 10 days later since you posted? My experience is the additives work for a short while
Then it comes back
tick never returned on the Rover. It's been many months. The turbo has inherent noises but overall has been quieter.@@tuul75
Between the IMS and the bore scoring, it's just not worth the risk of a complete rebuild. The car would be mechanically totaled. That's why I went with the 981.
Waffle....