hey buckin' billy, my pops was a logger back in the 80's and i grew up out in the mountains with him and my mom living in a fifthwheel going from site to site... it was such a great childhood. i just wanted to say thank you, all your videos take me back to those days. sitting on the trucks tailgate watching dad file, the late night campfire dinners, and long walks with mom and the dogs... what a way to grow up!
To add to this, never (or avoid as much as possible) having your head/body in line with the bar. That way if it does kickback hard you aren't in its way.
I started heat my house with wood last year and got a sthil 362 came with a 20” bar I changed it to a 25” bar thanks to your advice. Absolutely love it Can cut all day without my back hurting. I used to help my dad cut wood to heat and he almost always ran a 16” bar and rarely got out the bigger saw with a 20” bar. He thinks I’m nuts running a 25”
What a great saw my friend! I wouldn't put anything bigger on it unless you run a skip tooth. But i know for a fact that saw can run that bar for the next 10 years with the right TLC. Stay safe my friend.
Chainsaw, most dangerous tool in the shed. Good 4u pointing this out. You are the man. I'm 72 and don't cut anymore ( also because I moved to warm N sunny Florida) no need to heat anything here. AC is on almost 12 months of the year. Enjoy the heck out of your videos, wood be an honor to meet you some day. I'll buy lunch. Keep M coming, from a loyal fan.
I know it's off topic but I hope you and everyone out in Florida stay safe during this storm! I live in Oklahoma so we are no stranger to wild weather! PS. Buckin' is the bomb! Stay kind!!
Oh you'll be cutting again soon, or at least finding a neighbor to pay to do it for you. A hurricane will down trees on your property eventually, and it's gonna look like that asteroid impact in Siberia when it does. Definitely won't need the wood for heating your house though.
Thank You BBR as a occasional power saw user , I dont think you know how much you have helped keep the occasional user safe. More so than the guys who use them every day.I personally now sharpen and maintain my saws better than ever. So once again thank you Deano.
This is one of the aimes friends, safety.. yes ,. But when you have command of the tool , specially these tools , the enjoyment factor soars.. welcome friend
I grew up in my grandfather’s wood yard, helping split wood, stack countless cords, and then going to job sites clearing the site as he was falling and pruning trees. Every day filing those chains and weekly maintenance on all the equipment a must. Watching you brings back great memories… thank you!!!
I read this once and didnt read another word until I had memorized it... Per the NYSEG (New York State Electric and Gas) tree and saw manual, "a chainsaw, when operated at full speed, can exit the kerf and strike the operator 5-10 TIMES faster than the operator can THINK about stopping it, and while this possibility is occurring, the average saw is passing 600 teeth per second past any given point on the bar, with each tooth capable of removing up to a 1/4 inch of flesh, sinew or bone." In short, a saw could nearly split you in half by the time your motor function kicks in to stop it...thank the Lord for reflexive action, thank Buckin' for showing the proper technique...
There's not really a need for a long bar in Alberta but I've been running at least a 24 or 26 inch bar since I was a teenager. Being over 6'2 I did it to save my back at first but over the years it just felt like it made everything easier and safer all around.
Here's the deal. Especially when trimming/limbing long bars tend keep you in a more upright posture but tend to bring your knees and thighs closer to the bar. Shorter bars actually force you to lean down toward the work and the saw/bar naturally is further away from your legs. I felled for a large timber company in the south and we were always wading deep brush to limb trees (no log walking allowed) and our data showed that raising your left leg into a still spinning chain was the most common injury--this happened much more often with 30-32" bars as opposed to the usual 20" bar. appears that we carried the shorter bar saw a little higher. Plus you alwasy tended to lead with your left leg. Everyone took hits on the left knee--you could tell by how fuzzed out our saw chaps were on the left knee.
@@alanmeyers3957 no just t he mechanix of working in deep brush and having to high-step to get around in the brush and downed timber. the contract logger sawyers working in the same woods would go to work in tennis shoes cutoffs and a wifebeater. they were always getting cut around the knees and getting carried out of the woods, a lot of times on the company chopper. chaps were heavy and hot but i have full use of my lowers!
I agree the longer the bar the better. Im also 6'4" so i get tired of bending over. But also make sure the tip of your bar is clear of other obstruction. That other log in front of the one you was bucking is the reason for the kick back in the first place. Im sure you know that i mentioned it for the viewers. Greetings from Ohio.
most important: always keep both hands on the saw, that way your hand on the upper handle will automatically engage the chain brake when the bar comes flying towards you and stop the chain from spinning and cutting through your eyeball
Or just don't run the tip into other logs. My buddy has a scar on his cheek from a 36"that kicked back. It's nothing to do with the length of bar. It's using it properly that keeps you safe.
only suggestions brother no cuttin senario is alike , bring a sharp long bar and a sharp short bar to the next cut . have yer own experience ..love wins
I am impressed by my impression that you have great experience. My impression, but also my intuition. Put more concretely, I have spent my life in "Applied Physics," I know what I know, but I can see when someone has a firm grasp of their subject. I subscribed, and look forward to a journey-learning yes-but working with a master. Best Regards, Tom
Good points vs bad points...good points win! I respect his experience. Im 73 so don't like the additional weight but love being able to stand up straight and us my whole body to hold the weight of the saw.
KICKBACK AINT NO JOKE AND IF IT HAPPENS WHEN YOU ARENT PREPARED FOR IT YOU CAN GET PUT IN THE HURT LOCKER. Two fallers that I had worked with got hurt by kickback. One took the saw across the center of his chin and mouth, the other took the cut down through the top of his left shoulder. the cut was so deep in nicked into the pericardium. we could see his heart beating. He lived but his arm is now useless. Both were using 045 Stihls with 28 or 30 " bars. The first guy was walking a log and overextending --reaching out , leaning forward bumping knots , got a kickback off a knot and his saw pivoted in his left hand , the bar comes around and strikes him in the lower half of his face-him being bent over . He says he used to be good looking , but now he is jus hansome. his injury was more mof a hammering and less of aq cut. The other guy was on the ground limbing up a small pine ..leaning way forward ...reaching out in front of him trying to reach a limb and his bar tip snagged the crotch of a small bent over hickory sapling. The saw pivoted in his left hand .. whipped around and hit him in the shoulder. the majority of kickback injuries I am familiar with seem to follow this pattern--the trigger hand turns loose and the saw pivots in the handle bar hand. Happens in the blink of an eye and can generate a LOT of force and these two guys were very fit youing men with a lot of experience with kickback--they just got a little rushed , a little sloppy. I prepared my trainees by taking a 4" diameter pine club and had them hold their saw out at full reach and then I would bash the saw bar from above, below and sideways,to give them an idea what a kickback could do as well as how much forces they need to be able to handle when touching off limbs under pressure. A long bar helps because it can help you maintain a more upright solid stance but it also gives the kick-back forces that much more leverage against your muscles--that sword cuts both ways (sorry). Long bar is good, ninja death grip better, always being ready to absorb a kickback best !!! Especially when limbing from the ground you need to stay upright and well balanced. Reaching out away from your center mass or overhead drastically reduces the control you have over what the saw is doing.
My dearly departed dad never had a kick back. He started felling trees with an axe, cutting into sections with an M-tooth two person saw, by himself, and dragging the logs out with a bullock. When he started using chainsaws, it didn’t matter the bar length, he never had kickback, because he never cut in a way that would cause a kickback. Always well maintained equipment, never cut down on a log that was under compression, cleared any dry bark away from the cut zone, never pushed the saw but let it do all the work.
Love your channel bro, one suggestion, i was taught dont limp wrist the saw like youre doing keep thumb wrapped around and hold on like you might have a hard kickback
Buckin Billy lifting folks up! long bar helps me with my back. no bending to chop em up on the ground. if she dont like the smell of chain oil and random wood chips we arent compatible!
As someone who grew up around chainsaws in canada some of the chainsaws has this aluminum bar thing stuck on them where if there's kickback the blade will run along the bar and can't cut you upwards but cuts downward and flexes with enclosed spring that flips up with the wood. They were cheap and many of the lumber companies out there used them. Due to a few...injuries the companies out there had to find a cheap solution.
Everytime I fire the saw up I just pretend it's going to kickback no matter what. That way my body and muscle tension,etc is prepared for it to fly up at me.
I spent time in the woods on occasion with my grandpa in the early 70s. He built several sawmills out west like Deer Lodge and Kalispell Mt, north east and almost in Manila. The times were great. I've been cutting wood since I was 9 yrs old using an old David Bradley, with some help from dad. 47 years later, I still love cutting though a bad back greatly limits my cutting time. Thanks for the videos. I sure miss not having access to fir here in VA. Peace and God Bless
I know a guy, who just buys a new chain, i was like what a waste. I file till there gone. But ive heard you metion Billy, its an evolution of learning. Ive been doing it for lil over 20 years, but im all about pinching pennies and getting my moneys worth.
My manual said to avoid cutting with the tip of the bar, calling it the "danger zone." So now I have some reading to do because your video is very convincing
I find that the large saws with a large bar are much less jumpy or twitchy. The long bar allows me to reach without bending down, and the mass is greater and more forgiving. Little saws don't cut as fast, but they can kickback fast, because they don't weigh much and everything bad that can happen, will happen faster.
I prefer a 36” bar for everything.,When I first started cutting timber the faller who was teaching me started me out with a 281XP and 32” bar. I was limbing and bucking for him and 32” was just too short for me especially when wearing caulk boots and walking down the logs to limb. But he was 5’8” with short legs and long arms. I’m 5’10” with long legs and short arms. The bigger bar was WAY easier on my back! And the longer the bar, the less kickback you get for sure. So even cutting firewood, I like a long bar.
The great thing about growing up in the country back in the woods a little, and having a dad that did just about everything is i learned lot of stuff young. Like filing teeth and using a chainsaw. The worst part about the people these days is they aren’t teaching their kids anything like this we are going to live in a world of people who don’t know how to do anything useful
I a young one had to teach an older one at work doing the same job i just started, the propper way to cut, avoiding kickback... i thought everyone just knew and could feel physics deep in the core of how things work 🤷♀️
If you cut with the bottom of the bar, the spinning chain will pull the saw into the log and downward. This is generally the safest way to cut. The most dangerous is to use the tip, which can see the chain's rotation sending the business end of the saw upwards and directly at your face!!!
I have been a certified Arborist for over 23 years. Here's a tip for you. You should consider putting a warning on your video in the beginning saying don't try this at home because you were teaching bad and unsafe practices and there's somebody gets hurt they can say they learned it from you
A tip about tips 😉 nothing will make you feel strong like running a 36" bar will. I ran one even for a short time last Sunday after the hurricane and I can still feel it in my forearm lol. Gotta run that thing more
Couple years ago, my friend’s grandpa hosted a chainsaw training class for the men at my church. He had a video on this, where a machine was holding the saw, with a big block of ham next to it, (right where your shoulder would be) and they pushed a block of wood or something into the end, and that sucker dug into that ham like butter. And ever since, every single time I see the tip of the saw go into the wood, or out of sight I get freaked out. No matter how experienced the operator is. I know it likely won’t happen, but dang, it still gets me.
i like a shorter bar especially when time to file. plus less weight and more power from less chain. i like a shorter bar for felling longer for buckin. stay well friend
If you run a saw with a five foot bar all day you can expected to be worn out which causes accidents. Also, bucking one tree with a blade that long leads to inadvertently running the tip into other trees on the ground resulting in kick back. Last, working on the ground , it is more likely you will touch the tip into the ground. You have to stop and sharpen a very long chain.
I always avoided kickback by staying in control of my saw! Lol It's just like shooting a big gun, know what the recoil is and always be prepared for it. And obviously try to avoid sticking the upper quadrant of your bar tip into a back sloping stump *face palm, but when you are cutting in brush or plunge cutting sometimes you can't avoid it, so do as you did and stay in control of the saw!
You are absolutely right about the bar length. I knew a guy that was trimming a tree in the backyard with a mini Mac saw with a 18" bar. Saw kicked backyard, didn't make it to the back steps. So bar length is vital!!
Hey buckin. Could you make a video or two on your thought on minimum requirements for powersaw CC’s for long bar. I want to upgrade to a long bar but always turned away manufacturers spec’s. Thank you so much.
I run a 30 inch bar on my stihl 056av magnum 2. Saws older than I am at 28. I got the saw from my uncle who taught me just what you demonstrated so I'm not tearing up my back cutting firewood like him and my dad did at my age.
Hey Billy, I'm a new subscriber and loving the videos and your messages!!! One question I have, I see you never use eye protection, just wondering what reasoning or just habit. Keep making great videos!!!
Just moved into a tiny home to cut expenses and with winter coming I'll be installing the wood stove soon. As a result I need to learn to fell trees and process wood for heat. I need all the tips to make up for my lack of experience. I'll probably die or severely injure myself. Being poor sucks kids and don't get a degree in psychology, it doesn't pay and leads to debt.
hey billy ive never seen one kickback from the center of the bar like that,but hey how do you avoid it?keep it sharp,right?keep it from the tip,what else though,honest question,thanks brother 👍
He was touching the tip of the bar to the log he wasn’t cutting on. The tip to the top end of the bar is kickback zone. Happens fast. When practicing cut smaller stuff and you’ll get the feel for kickback. Like anything practice a lot.
actually, it’s because the top front quarter of the blade hits anything when the rest of the blade has nothing to stop it. That’s when you get kickback. Just don’t touch the top front quarter of the blade on anything and you’ll be fine. Once the blade is buried in wood, like once a plunge cut is started, then it cant kickback, because when it tries, the top edge of the blade hits uncut wood immediately. oh and get used to using the dogs, they are there for a reason.
If I had the space, I would include a pic of my son's friend who decided to stop a chainsaw with his nose. Not pretty. I just stand to the side of the cut, rather than looking down the bar. Good video Billy!
heehaw! While this is a SERIOUS subject, YES... this is one of your better! if not the best o' yer YT Shorts, there, my good man BillayRaay. God bless you!
I was messing around with my brand new 32” Husqvarna 585 yesterday and decided to do a bore cut after about 20 minutes of bucking logs. I tried to come in a little too parallel with the tip and that sucker kicked up and stopped 6 inches away from my helmet. I was fatigued from wielding a 20 pound saw. Luckily I had my face shield down but it probably wouldn’t of helped. You gotta be careful because these things will kill you so fast….or leave its mark on you
I rin 24" bars on my 50cc saws and 32" on almost anything larger, they have the power to pull them, don't think your going to wreck your saw doing it, its safe and it saves your back, you want to limb without bending over, use a pole saw
Not really the same thing but an interesting story, my dad worked with a guy who's son caught a circular saw in the thigh after that fucker clipped a nail that was in the board he was cutting. Guy lucked out and missed everything vital, but had a second close call when the idiot doctor told him he'd chipped the femur. It wasn't bone, just dried flecks of subcutaneous fat (yeck). Relevant takeaway: no matter the tool, kickback is no joke.
I love all your videos , I get you well. We a lot a like I think. Chainsaws are my life. Only difference between us is I'm a stihl man all the way. I love my 500 I'm. Got 3 of them. However I've only ran 1 husky for a day 20 years ago. I love you man. You good people❤
It’s wood cutting season again, you’ve got a point there fella. I’ve got a husky 562xpg that will handle a 28” bar (skiptooth chain) but I’m still rocking the “20 stock size.
So I need a 36” bar for my echo 2511, but they don’t make one. Time to learn to weld. 3 14” bars cut down and welded as one should do it. Might want to port the little guy too.
hey buckin' billy, my pops was a logger back in the 80's and i grew up out in the mountains with him and my mom living in a fifthwheel going from site to site... it was such a great childhood. i just wanted to say thank you, all your videos take me back to those days. sitting on the trucks tailgate watching dad file, the late night campfire dinners, and long walks with mom and the dogs... what a way to grow up!
Omg that's the life!!!
I want to live like that but cant find a woman that would be ok with that lifestyle nowadays
@@marcofemto9417 theyre out there, the second you stop looking, start doing what you love, and living for you itll happen.
glad your here friend
That does sound like a great childhood.
Sorry you gre up with retards.
My man!
The end had me smiling and laughing like Goofy. Legit went "Ehuh Ehuh Ehuh."
yer the man
Man Buckin your the reason I run a 28in bar to save my back and face. Thanks Brother with Love!!
To add to this, never (or avoid as much as possible) having your head/body in line with the bar. That way if it does kickback hard you aren't in its way.
Also, keep the rpm up when engaging the stock.
I started heat my house with wood last year and got a sthil 362 came with a 20” bar I changed it to a 25” bar thanks to your advice. Absolutely love it Can cut all day without my back hurting. I used to help my dad cut wood to heat and he almost always ran a 16” bar and rarely got out the bigger saw with a 20” bar. He thinks I’m nuts running a 25”
its all in the filing
What a great saw my friend! I wouldn't put anything bigger on it unless you run a skip tooth. But i know for a fact that saw can run that bar for the next 10 years with the right TLC. Stay safe my friend.
Chainsaw, most dangerous tool in the shed. Good 4u pointing this out.
You are the man. I'm 72 and don't cut anymore ( also because I moved to warm N sunny Florida) no need to heat anything here.
AC is on almost 12 months of the year.
Enjoy the heck out of your videos, wood be an honor to meet you some day. I'll buy lunch.
Keep M coming, from a loyal fan.
thx pal
I know it's off topic but I hope you and everyone out in Florida stay safe during this storm! I live in Oklahoma so we are no stranger to wild weather! PS. Buckin' is the bomb! Stay kind!!
Oh you'll be cutting again soon, or at least finding a neighbor to pay to do it for you.
A hurricane will down trees on your property eventually, and it's gonna look like that asteroid impact in Siberia when it does. Definitely won't need the wood for heating your house though.
@@100GTAGUY I've got a 38 year old son who will cut if need be.
Id rather wield a chainsaw in each hand than a grinder
It kicked back because you stuck the tip into the stump behind what you are cutting. But you know that. 👍
Was just gonna say that
One reason why I don’t use a bar that’s too long.
Right
Ya he deffo knew, I think he was just showing it for educational purposes! 😊
@@WhackBytch256 always know where the tip is at 🎉
Thank You BBR as a occasional power saw user , I dont think you know how much you have helped keep the occasional user safe. More so than the guys who use them every day.I personally now sharpen and maintain my saws better than ever. So once again thank you Deano.
This is one of the aimes friends, safety.. yes ,. But when you have command of the tool , specially these tools , the enjoyment factor soars.. welcome friend
I grew up in my grandfather’s wood yard, helping split wood, stack countless cords, and then going to job sites clearing the site as he was falling and pruning trees. Every day filing those chains and weekly maintenance on all the equipment a must. Watching you brings back great memories… thank you!!!
I’ve been watching ur videos for a good amount of years now and this by far is one of my favourites. Resembles ur personality so well lol.
I read this once and didnt read another word until I had memorized it...
Per the NYSEG (New York State Electric and Gas) tree and saw manual, "a chainsaw, when operated at full speed, can exit the kerf and strike the operator 5-10 TIMES faster than the operator can THINK about stopping it, and while this possibility is occurring, the average saw is passing 600 teeth per second past any given point on the bar, with each tooth capable of removing up to a 1/4 inch of flesh, sinew or bone." In short, a saw could nearly split you in half by the time your motor function kicks in to stop it...thank the Lord for reflexive action, thank Buckin' for showing the proper technique...
There's not really a need for a long bar in Alberta but I've been running at least a 24 or 26 inch bar since I was a teenager. Being over 6'2 I did it to save my back at first but over the years it just felt like it made everything easier and safer all around.
Here's the deal. Especially when trimming/limbing long bars tend keep you in a more upright posture but tend to bring your knees and thighs closer to the bar. Shorter bars actually force you to lean down toward the work and the saw/bar naturally is further away from your legs. I felled for a large timber company in the south and we were always wading deep brush to limb trees (no log walking allowed) and our data showed that raising your left leg into a still spinning chain was the most common injury--this happened much more often with 30-32" bars as opposed to the usual 20" bar. appears that we carried the shorter bar saw a little higher. Plus you alwasy tended to lead with your left leg. Everyone took hits on the left knee--you could tell by how fuzzed out our saw chaps were on the left knee.
So I take it you guys were pretty sloppy, never worn chaps🤷
@@alanmeyers3957 no just t he mechanix of working in deep brush and having to high-step to get around in the brush and downed timber. the contract logger sawyers working in the same woods would go to work in tennis shoes cutoffs and a wifebeater. they were always getting cut around the knees and getting carried out of the woods, a lot of times on the company chopper. chaps were heavy and hot but i have full use of my lowers!
Buckin' you're getting good at these shorts! Good chuckle🤣
kool thx
I agree the longer the bar the better. Im also 6'4" so i get tired of bending over. But also make sure the tip of your bar is clear of other obstruction. That other log in front of the one you was bucking is the reason for the kick back in the first place. Im sure you know that i mentioned it for the viewers. Greetings from Ohio.
yes sir it was a demonstration,, thx
most important: always keep both hands on the saw, that way your hand on the upper handle will automatically engage the chain brake when the bar comes flying towards you and stop the chain from spinning and cutting through your eyeball
I absolutely love this guy's personality 😂. He's great.
This is a topic that can not be understated, have seen first hand several horror scenes , you are the MAN !!
Yes, not something you can easily forget.
Minimum of 120+ stitches every time too
I didn't realize how much i needed your channel.
Hey buckin' , I really wish I had you as my neighbor. You rock, dude.
Or just don't run the tip into other logs. My buddy has a scar on his cheek from a 36"that kicked back. It's nothing to do with the length of bar. It's using it properly that keeps you safe.
I saw that too. But I’m sure it was just for demonstration purposes for the video
Glad your going back to training us young bucks. Thank you, we all need retraining once in a while
only suggestions brother no cuttin senario is alike , bring a sharp long bar and a sharp short bar to the next cut . have yer own experience ..love wins
I am impressed by my impression that you have great experience. My impression, but also my intuition.
Put more concretely, I have spent my life in "Applied Physics," I know what I know, but I can see when someone has a firm grasp of their subject.
I subscribed, and look forward to a journey-learning yes-but working with a master.
Best Regards, Tom
Good points vs bad points...good points win! I respect his experience. Im 73 so don't like the additional weight but love being able to stand up straight and us my whole body to hold the weight of the saw.
KICKBACK AINT NO JOKE AND IF IT HAPPENS WHEN YOU ARENT PREPARED FOR IT YOU CAN GET PUT IN THE HURT LOCKER. Two fallers that I had worked with got hurt by kickback. One took the saw across the center of his chin and mouth, the other took the cut down through the top of his left shoulder. the cut was so deep in nicked into the pericardium. we could see his heart beating. He lived but his arm is now useless. Both were using 045 Stihls with 28 or 30 " bars. The first guy was walking a log and overextending --reaching out , leaning forward bumping knots , got a kickback off a knot and his saw pivoted in his left hand , the bar comes around and strikes him in the lower half of his face-him being bent over . He says he used to be good looking , but now he is jus hansome. his injury was more mof a hammering and less of aq cut. The other guy was on the ground limbing up a small pine ..leaning way forward ...reaching out in front of him trying to reach a limb and his bar tip snagged the crotch of a small bent over hickory sapling. The saw pivoted in his left hand .. whipped around and hit him in the shoulder. the majority of kickback injuries I am familiar with seem to follow this pattern--the trigger hand turns loose and the saw pivots in the handle bar hand. Happens in the blink of an eye and can generate a LOT of force and these two guys were very fit youing men with a lot of experience with kickback--they just got a little rushed , a little sloppy. I prepared my trainees by taking a 4" diameter pine club and had them hold their saw out at full reach and then I would bash the saw bar from above, below and sideways,to give them an idea what a kickback could do as well as how much forces they need to be able to handle when touching off limbs under pressure. A long bar helps because it can help you maintain a more upright solid stance but it also gives the kick-back forces that much more leverage against your muscles--that sword cuts both ways (sorry). Long bar is good, ninja death grip better, always being ready to absorb a kickback best !!! Especially when limbing from the ground you need to stay upright and well balanced. Reaching out away from your center mass or overhead drastically reduces the control you have over what the saw is doing.
My dearly departed dad never had a kick back. He started felling trees with an axe, cutting into sections with an M-tooth two person saw, by himself, and dragging the logs out with a bullock. When he started using chainsaws, it didn’t matter the bar length, he never had kickback, because he never cut in a way that would cause a kickback. Always well maintained equipment, never cut down on a log that was under compression, cleared any dry bark away from the cut zone, never pushed the saw but let it do all the work.
Took a chainsaw class with the forest service in my area, free class for my line of work, good knowledge to have
Love your channel bro, one suggestion, i was taught dont limp wrist the saw like youre doing keep thumb wrapped around and hold on like you might have a hard kickback
The ahaaa got me 🤣🤣
Buckin Billy lifting folks up!
long bar helps me with my back. no bending to chop em up on the ground.
if she dont like the smell of chain oil and random wood chips we arent compatible!
As someone who grew up around chainsaws in canada some of the chainsaws has this aluminum bar thing stuck on them where if there's kickback the blade will run along the bar and can't cut you upwards but cuts downward and flexes with enclosed spring that flips up with the wood. They were cheap and many of the lumber companies out there used them. Due to a few...injuries the companies out there had to find a cheap solution.
Just a man enjoying himself :)
Good points sir!!! Thank u have a great weekend!
how is every one big J
@@BuckinBillyRaySmith been sick covid crap thank u sir hope all is well wit u an urs.
One of Buckin's best shorts...
Even though they're all good 👍
This is about the sassiest I've seen bucking'. Super entertaining and helpful.
I friggin love this guy
Dude your videos are freaking awesome! Love it. Keep them coming!!
Keep 'em comin' great info always
Everytime I fire the saw up I just pretend it's going to kickback no matter what. That way my body and muscle tension,etc is prepared for it to fly up at me.
I spent time in the woods on occasion with my grandpa in the early 70s. He built several sawmills out west like Deer Lodge and Kalispell Mt, north east and almost in Manila. The times were great. I've been cutting wood since I was 9 yrs old using an old David Bradley, with some help from dad. 47 years later, I still love cutting though a bad back greatly limits my cutting time. Thanks for the videos. I sure miss not having access to fir here in VA. Peace and God Bless
I know a guy, who just buys a new chain, i was like what a waste. I file till there gone. But ive heard you metion Billy, its an evolution of learning. Ive been doing it for lil over 20 years, but im all about pinching pennies and getting my moneys worth.
My manual said to avoid cutting with the tip of the bar, calling it the "danger zone." So now I have some reading to do because your video is very convincing
Thank you for these safety videos that could save me or someone else from horrific disfigurement or death!
I find that the large saws with a large bar are much less jumpy or twitchy.
The long bar allows me to reach without bending down, and the mass is greater and more forgiving.
Little saws don't cut as fast, but they can kickback fast, because they don't weigh much and everything bad that can happen, will happen faster.
Just found you, and I’m enjoying your humor!! From new boots to old grail saws….you’re a gas❣️
Love it!! I've watched this 4 times 😁 makes so much sense and couldn't be more correct! Keep up the great work
I prefer a 36” bar for everything.,When I first started cutting timber the faller who was teaching me started me out with a 281XP and 32” bar. I was limbing and bucking for him and 32” was just too short for me especially when wearing caulk boots and walking down the logs to limb. But he was 5’8” with short legs and long arms. I’m 5’10” with long legs and short arms. The bigger bar was WAY easier on my back! And the longer the bar, the less kickback you get for sure. So even cutting firewood, I like a long bar.
I think you should try holding on tighter to reduce the chance of injury if it does kick back.
The great thing about growing up in the country back in the woods a little, and having a dad that did just about everything is i learned lot of stuff young. Like filing teeth and using a chainsaw. The worst part about the people these days is they aren’t teaching their kids anything like this we are going to live in a world of people who don’t know how to do anything useful
Buckn’ out here saving lives. Love your work ❤
I a young one had to teach an older one at work doing the same job i just started, the propper way to cut, avoiding kickback... i thought everyone just knew and could feel physics deep in the core of how things work 🤷♀️
If you cut with the bottom of the bar, the spinning chain will pull the saw into the log and downward. This is generally the safest way to cut.
The most dangerous is to use the tip,
which can see the chain's rotation sending the business end of the saw upwards and directly at your face!!!
Ahahaha this is great! Educational and extremely entertaining! You’re so good at teaching your passion!
That end on its own got me to subscribe. I've never seen something that so perfectly exudes the energy of the Tim Allen "uuuegh" until now
I allways thought the longer the bar the bigger risk of kickback? Love all your videos.. ❤️
I have been a certified Arborist for over 23 years. Here's a tip for you. You should consider putting a warning on your video in the beginning saying don't try this at home because you were teaching bad and unsafe practices and there's somebody gets hurt they can say they learned it from you
A tip about tips 😉 nothing will make you feel strong like running a 36" bar will. I ran one even for a short time last Sunday after the hurricane and I can still feel it in my forearm lol. Gotta run that thing more
This guy is the best around !!!
I stumbled apon the first video that I may say thank you for showing your experiences
Couple years ago, my friend’s grandpa hosted a chainsaw training class for the men at my church. He had a video on this, where a machine was holding the saw, with a big block of ham next to it, (right where your shoulder would be) and they pushed a block of wood or something into the end, and that sucker dug into that ham like butter. And ever since, every single time I see the tip of the saw go into the wood, or out of sight I get freaked out. No matter how experienced the operator is. I know it likely won’t happen, but dang, it still gets me.
The smile !God-bless you! You've been making me smile for years and you give jewels to the Bushman
i like a shorter bar especially when time to file. plus less weight and more power from less chain. i like a shorter bar for felling longer for buckin. stay well friend
If you run a saw with a five foot bar all day you can expected to be worn out which causes accidents. Also, bucking one tree with a blade that long leads to inadvertently running the tip into other trees on the ground resulting in kick back. Last, working on the ground , it is more likely you will touch the tip into the ground. You have to stop and sharpen a very long chain.
“Cut the odds in half” hahahahahaha
Must save some back ache too. Learning so much on this channel. Thanks friend.
when i changed out my Husqvarna's stock 18" bar for a 24", it was the beginning of a beautiful friendship! I can buck standing up :)
I always avoided kickback by staying in control of my saw! Lol
It's just like shooting a big gun, know what the recoil is and always be prepared for it.
And obviously try to avoid sticking the upper quadrant of your bar tip into a back sloping stump *face palm, but when you are cutting in brush or plunge cutting sometimes you can't avoid it, so do as you did and stay in control of the saw!
Stand up and buck! It was one of the first things I learned working for an arborist
Hell yeah brother that was the best video on chainsaw safety I have seen in a while thankyou sir!
You are absolutely right about the bar length. I knew a guy that was trimming a tree in the backyard with a mini Mac saw with a 18" bar. Saw kicked backyard, didn't make it to the back steps. So bar length is vital!!
Hey buckin. Could you make a video or two on your thought on minimum requirements for powersaw CC’s for long bar. I want to upgrade to a long bar but always turned away manufacturers spec’s. Thank you so much.
I'm throwing a 32 " on my mini mac.
😉
I run a 30 inch bar on my stihl 056av magnum 2. Saws older than I am at 28. I got the saw from my uncle who taught me just what you demonstrated so I'm not tearing up my back cutting firewood like him and my dad did at my age.
Man you are killin’ the Shorts game. Nice work. Buckin’ Eh!
I dealt with kick back when I was a kid once and learned real quick
Hey Billy, I'm a new subscriber and loving the videos and your messages!!! One question I have, I see you never use eye protection, just wondering what reasoning or just habit.
Keep making great videos!!!
Great way to teach Billy
Cheers mate from down under
Just moved into a tiny home to cut expenses and with winter coming I'll be installing the wood stove soon. As a result I need to learn to fell trees and process wood for heat. I need all the tips to make up for my lack of experience. I'll probably die or severely injure myself. Being poor sucks kids and don't get a degree in psychology, it doesn't pay and leads to debt.
Good stuff man
hey billy ive never seen one kickback from the center of the bar like that,but hey how do you avoid it?keep it sharp,right?keep it from the tip,what else though,honest question,thanks brother 👍
Watch closely. It happened because he touched the log on the left with the tip of the bar.
He was touching the tip of the bar to the log he wasn’t cutting on. The tip to the top end of the bar is kickback zone. Happens fast. When practicing cut smaller stuff and you’ll get the feel for kickback. Like anything practice a lot.
@@SeilVonSehl thanks 👍
@@maxjones9139 thank you
@@blotharberzerker3275 Welcome :)
AH The old kickback, Buckin says; "STAND UP AND BUCK!! ✊✊👍👍
actually, it’s because the top front quarter of the blade hits anything when the rest of the blade has nothing to stop it. That’s when you get kickback. Just don’t touch the top front quarter of the blade on anything and you’ll be fine. Once the blade is buried in wood, like once a plunge cut is started, then it cant kickback, because when it tries, the top edge of the blade hits uncut wood immediately. oh and get used to using the dogs, they are there for a reason.
If I had the space, I would include a pic of my son's friend who decided to stop a chainsaw with his nose. Not pretty. I just stand to the side of the cut, rather than looking down the bar. Good video Billy!
Buckim you crazy man ... love your positive energy
good stuff
I love your videos only good content on youtube
How to avoid pushback when you're half way cutting the log? By cutting the bar angle low?
ill show you .. alway work on a pulling chain
Oh Buckin', best video I have seen you put out!!!👍👍👍👍👍
glad friend thank you
heehaw! While this is a SERIOUS subject, YES... this is one of your better! if not the best o' yer YT Shorts, there, my good man BillayRaay. God bless you!
I was messing around with my brand new 32” Husqvarna 585 yesterday and decided to do a bore cut after about 20 minutes of bucking logs. I tried to come in a little too parallel with the tip and that sucker kicked up and stopped 6 inches away from my helmet. I was fatigued from wielding a 20 pound saw. Luckily I had my face shield down but it probably wouldn’t of helped. You gotta be careful because these things will kill you so fast….or leave its mark on you
I rin 24" bars on my 50cc saws and 32" on almost anything larger, they have the power to pull them, don't think your going to wreck your saw doing it, its safe and it saves your back, you want to limb without bending over, use a pole saw
Man best instructor ever. God bless.
Not really the same thing but an interesting story, my dad worked with a guy who's son caught a circular saw in the thigh after that fucker clipped a nail that was in the board he was cutting. Guy lucked out and missed everything vital, but had a second close call when the idiot doctor told him he'd chipped the femur. It wasn't bone, just dried flecks of subcutaneous fat (yeck). Relevant takeaway: no matter the tool, kickback is no joke.
My mom always told me about a guy she knew in the 70s that had a horrendous face scar from a saw kicking back into his face.
I love all your videos , I get you well. We a lot a like I think. Chainsaws are my life. Only difference between us is I'm a stihl man all the way. I love my 500 I'm. Got 3 of them. However I've only ran 1 husky for a day 20 years ago. I love you man. You good people❤
Great advice and funny stuff. 👍
It's a weight distribution, and correctly filing the chain kind of thing...
Good tips man!!!
It’s wood cutting season again, you’ve got a point there fella. I’ve got a husky 562xpg that will handle a 28” bar (skiptooth chain) but I’m still rocking the “20 stock size.
Got a question for ya. Lookin at some husky’s and can’t help the amazing sound of your husky’s exhaust lol where can I get one!
I fkn love you man 😂
So I need a 36” bar for my echo 2511, but they don’t make one. Time to learn to weld. 3 14” bars cut down and welded as one should do it. Might want to port the little guy too.
Time for you then to discover a whole new "style" of kickback .enjoy the learning curve