Yep....... watch this mans vids twoor 3 times and now i need to do the same on my RRC i have all the knowledge and I'm pre warned of typical falls when doing the line/seal changes. Very usefull Richard. Ta a lot.
My pleasure, this vids are there to motivate and encourage you to do the same. It is only a machine designed by humans, so there is a fair chance that you can fix it 👍🙈
Experienced exactly the same problem on my 81 4-door (original lines, lasted 25 years(!)). The wear was not picked up during the MOT. The brake lines to the rear brakes take a lot of weather. Thanks for the video!
Thank you! Another brilliant video that helped me massively...Bleeding the ABS was a complete pain the proverbial...Managed it eventually with a Gunson
Hey Church House, I've got a 93' LWB and I'm troubleshooting a spongey brake pedal and assessing a leak coming from my right front passenger side caliper. Had a question on the (2) lines going into the back of the caliper. I know one is for power circuit and the other is for the fluid/feed return. I wondered if they were interchangeable as to which goes into the ports on the back of the caliper. I'm worried I may have swapped them around in the reinstall by accident and its what's causing me to have inconsistent brakes. Cheers from Chicago!
First and foremost, 2 ton car with ropey brakes is not good. Seek help if there is anything that you cannot understand. The workshop manual covers most stuff but doesn't show which calliper inlet ports are power and hydrastatic. Get the leaking calliper properly overhauled or replaced. and while you are at it might be worth doing the other side also, same age, probably on the verge of leaking. Two pipes to each calliper are one for the power circuit and the second is hydrostatic circuit. In normal operation both circuits activate at the same time. In the event of a failure of the power circuit system you still have half the brake effort on the front brakes only to hopefully get you to a stop. Each of the 4 power circuits and the hydrostatic operate separately but rely on a single reservoir Check the workshop manual, it shows you which bleed nipples are for power and hydraulic circuits. From that and with the calliper on the bench you can attach some pipe to a bleed nipple, open it and blow through to see which inlet port is which. Don't mix them up, else bleeding the system through will not work. On the main brake modulator the power circuit ports are across the front face, one for each corner. The hydraulic circuit are 2 that go into the side of the unit.
Spraying the underbody and chassis and inside doors & box sections with oil old or better still new oil would reduce corrosion and all nuts and bolts would undo when required >> Downside what to do one day with an old RR that isn't rusting away ??? I'm using my 82 rebuilt in 1995 as a shed...
I like the look of the OE AP Lockheed calipers, replacement "pattern" parts may not be as good as a refurbished unit. Nowadays I send complete calipers to Biggred.co.uk
Do you think it's necessary to replace the entire thing? Not just the rusted part? (under the hood the tubes look perfectly fine, and frankly, even underneath the car it's sort of okay - just the part in the rear, above the axle. couple of questions: what's the correct diameter of those tubes? what if we have just metric sizes available in stores? And another one: is there a way to retrofit abs ring and sensor on the originally non-abs vehicle? (not for braking assistance, but rather to detect wheel slipping)
while the system was drained of fluid it seemed sensible. The chassis lines, rear axle lines and everything under the front wheel arches were shot. simple test was to create a reasonable radius and the pipe snapped each time. The only bits that I might have saved would have been the sections along the inside of the engine bay and they I would have been into splicing and connecting. Cheaper and probably quicker in the long run to replace the lot. All brake lines on this car were imperial 3/16 all fixings on the 93 car are metric M10 if I recall correctly. Not sure about retrofitting ABS rings into the rear hubs, part numbers are different. May be easier to get the rear hub assembly 2nd hand from an ABS donor
Nice job, have had to split a caliper before a few times in the past and drill n tap a seized piston then screw a bolt into it to get the bugger out. All turned out nice in the end. ruclips.net/video/HvlxH6n9xJU/видео.html
I have been running pure copper brake pipes and fuel pipes on one of my car for years and had no issues with them at all. have outlasted the steel ones that came off it.
@@jimmycrankerson1797 just couple of links: www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=brake+system+pressure&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copper-tubes-dimensions-pressure-d_84.html
Yep....... watch this mans vids twoor 3 times and now i need to do the same on my RRC i have all the knowledge and I'm pre warned of typical falls when doing the line/seal changes. Very usefull Richard. Ta a lot.
My pleasure, this vids are there to motivate and encourage you to do the same. It is only a machine designed by humans, so there is a fair chance that you can fix it 👍🙈
Experienced exactly the same problem on my 81 4-door (original lines, lasted 25 years(!)). The wear was not picked up during the MOT. The brake lines to the rear brakes take a lot of weather. Thanks for the video!
Going to do the same brake rebuild of the rear brakes to my 1993 RRC next week. Thank you for the input :)
Thank you! Another brilliant video that helped me massively...Bleeding the ABS was a complete pain the proverbial...Managed it eventually with a Gunson
Hey Church House, I've got a 93' LWB and I'm troubleshooting a spongey brake pedal and assessing a leak coming from my right front passenger side caliper. Had a question on the (2) lines going into the back of the caliper. I know one is for power circuit and the other is for the fluid/feed return. I wondered if they were interchangeable as to which goes into the ports on the back of the caliper.
I'm worried I may have swapped them around in the reinstall by accident and its what's causing me to have inconsistent brakes. Cheers from Chicago!
First and foremost, 2 ton car with ropey brakes is not good. Seek help if there is anything that you cannot understand. The workshop manual covers most stuff but doesn't show which calliper inlet ports are power and hydrastatic.
Get the leaking calliper properly overhauled or replaced. and while you are at it might be worth doing the other side also, same age, probably on the verge of leaking.
Two pipes to each calliper are one for the power circuit and the second is hydrostatic circuit. In normal operation both circuits activate at the same time. In the event of a failure of the power circuit system you still have half the brake effort on the front brakes only to hopefully get you to a stop. Each of the 4 power circuits and the hydrostatic operate separately but rely on a single reservoir
Check the workshop manual, it shows you which bleed nipples are for power and hydraulic circuits. From that and with the calliper on the bench you can attach some pipe to a bleed nipple, open it and blow through to see which inlet port is which. Don't mix them up, else bleeding the system through will not work.
On the main brake modulator the power circuit ports are across the front face, one for each corner. The hydraulic circuit are 2 that go into the side of the unit.
Bugger of a job well done Richard, maybe get a brake pipe straightening tool 🤔
Thank you, and ruclips.net/video/lN9GeDf0Ytg/видео.html👍
Spraying the underbody and chassis and inside doors & box sections with oil old or better still new oil would reduce corrosion and all nuts and bolts would undo when required >> Downside what to do one day with an old RR that isn't rusting away ??? I'm using my 82 rebuilt in 1995 as a shed...
Still got it?
Looks like a lot of work to rebuild the calipers. Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier to get new/remanufactured calipers?
I like the look of the OE AP Lockheed calipers, replacement "pattern" parts may not be as good as a refurbished unit. Nowadays I send complete calipers to Biggred.co.uk
@@churchhouseclassics Thanks, unfortunately Bigred wont ship to the states
Hi do you know where I can find the brake bleeding procedure as I have a 1994 classic with abs thank you regards
The Haynes workshop manual covers it in detail in chapter 13, also the factory repair operations manual has it well covered
The Haynes workshop manual covers it in detail in chapter 13, also the factory repair operations manual has it well covered
Do you think it's necessary to replace the entire thing? Not just the rusted part? (under the hood the tubes look perfectly fine, and frankly, even underneath the car it's sort of okay - just the part in the rear, above the axle.
couple of questions: what's the correct diameter of those tubes? what if we have just metric sizes available in stores?
And another one: is there a way to retrofit abs ring and sensor on the originally non-abs vehicle? (not for braking assistance, but rather to detect wheel slipping)
while the system was drained of fluid it seemed sensible. The chassis lines, rear axle lines and everything under the front wheel arches were shot. simple test was to create a reasonable radius and the pipe snapped each time.
The only bits that I might have saved would have been the sections along the inside of the engine bay and they I would have been into splicing and connecting.
Cheaper and probably quicker in the long run to replace the lot.
All brake lines on this car were imperial 3/16 all fixings on the 93 car are metric M10 if I recall correctly.
Not sure about retrofitting ABS rings into the rear hubs, part numbers are different. May be easier to get the rear hub assembly 2nd hand from an ABS donor
@@churchhouseclassics Thanks! And what about the front wheels? (I mean ABS )
@@ljuberzy the abs rings are part of the front CV joint. Best bet would be to acquire a complete ABS axle maybe
Nice job, have had to split a caliper before a few times in the past and drill n tap a seized piston then screw a bolt into it to get the bugger out. All turned out nice in the end. ruclips.net/video/HvlxH6n9xJU/видео.html
Great video. Does the system require rebleeding when replacing the accumulator? Thank you for the input.
in theory you just bleed the item. Not that difficult to bleed the whole system and renew the fluid so that is what I would do
@@churchhouseclassics And it only can be done with the system is under pressure of at least 20 PSI?
@@RoveFans I do not understand, do you mean can the accumulator be removed? if so then you must follow the manual to depressurise the system fully
@@churchhouseclassics yes exactly that what worries me the most.
copper instead of steel? no concerns about that? what sort of copper line was that? thick-wall?
it is a copper nickle iron alloy, flexible and it doesn't work harden as easily as copper
I have been running pure copper brake pipes and fuel pipes on one of my car for years and had no issues with them at all. have outlasted the steel ones that came off it.
@@jimmycrankerson1797 just couple of links:
www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=brake+system+pressure&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/copper-tubes-dimensions-pressure-d_84.html
CuNiFer / cupronickel just as good as steel easier to work and lasts longer.