Range Rover Classic Restoration Part 1 | Brakes
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024
- This is the Rangie classic that some of you may have seen in the engine rebuild series. I am now doing a bit of work on it. In this episode I replace the front brake backplates, discs and pads. There will be more on this car in future episodes.
I didn't think we'd see you working on that one Steve. Great work as always and thanks for sharing 👍
Neither did I!
Really enjoying these range classic videos 👍🏾
Nice work ! Same halfords tool case as mine 😊 feel honoured now 😆
Great stuff Steve. Challenging project. This will be great series. Cheers
Thanks 👍
Nice bonus to see work on the RRC, typical land rover pick and mix with nuts and bolts that's why land rover owners carry so many tools.
Much do I like your way of splitting the hub and brake disk sir. With a large wooden block in my big vice I shall use your technique to split my second one on my 300TDI, which is the same. But not bothering to use use Locktite 270, as the official Land Rover Technical comms dep Workshop Manual specifies for the re-fitting of disc to hub bolts, and they must only be tightened to 73Nm (54 lbf/ft) really !
The problem with just making them 'tight' with an air impact gun is you likely over torque them and can not possibly have any feel for how tight you have made them. My windy gun can tighten a bolt to 400NM in a few seconds. It has a setting to stop immediately a bolt is beginning to torque up, at about 10nm, I then use a torque wrench or hand wrench to feel on non critical components.
Just using a very powerful impact gun could very easily have caused your bolts to be stretched beyond their specific tolerance and have the future potential to fail/snap. Seen this happen in the past at a previous job, the customer complained they was hearing strange pinging sounds, one of their wheels only had one nut left, after having new tyres fitted not far away. They got lucky we thought.
Front brake discs being a critical component you also do not want the bolts to work loose, so using Locktight 270 as required is absolutely essential, not a choice for you to make for another.
For the sake of 5 mins and some Locktight 270 which is the specified high strenth thread lock, is it worth a potential catastrophic brake failure for some poor unsuspecting soul down the line, and the potential destruction of all your hard work.
I dont suppose you ever did strip the hub down again to make it right, but honestly for an hour of your time it may have made all the other wonderful work your doing worth it.
please do forgive my rant, I see lots of people think your work is top notch by the positive comments, and its obvious you know better.
Each to their own. I've done hundreds of sets of brakes on these and discos over the years and never had one single failure. I've done it the same way every time.
I managed to loose my engine under cover fixings down the drain once. Heard them plop in the water. Brought a magnetic tray after that.
Tell him don't use gloss paint on chassis & suspension, the best version of in these classics was a satin black, I was disappointed when I saw a 90 model compared to an 88 with build quality, colour scheme & comp on ant strength !