@@Calibrite aren't we supposed to use the second square from left (on the bottom row) for white balance? I think that's the one that corresponds to the grey card used for white balance. it's confusing as some people use the leftmost square to white balance, as you did here. which one is more correct? thanks from the manual "How to Set White Balance in Aperture Aperture’s white balance is similar. In the Adjustments panel, scroll down to white balance. Click on the eyedropper; then, for a neutral white balance, select either the first patch on the left in the portrait row, or the middle patch on the landscape row." the first patch in the portrait row is the same as the middle one on the landscape. they are most definitely not the same as the leftmost patch you used to white balance in this video.
Are the x-rite and the calibrite one and same product from the same company? If yes, does it mean that the plug-in for calibrite can be downloaded for free also?
Fab, I love it, just got it today and your vid was V-helpful. One Q. If i set the custom white balance on my camera using the light grey part of the card. Then I also calibrate the colorchecker via lightroom ... do I need to also use the grey dropper to click on one of the greys on the card in the photo? That would not be necessary right? Because it is all fixed? Also, does it adjust for exposure too, since it has a greyscale on the card? Just wondering if how much to mess with the photo after calibration is done. Thanks, Dana!
Thanks for this video. Is this video enough to learn everything about how to use the color checker passport? Or there is some other stuff out there. Where can we find those resources.
Good stuff Joe. Only 1 issue, in the video you said you were using the Sony a7R4 but when you showed the section using the software to create the profile you named it Sony a6400 (just a minor thing for consistency) :) I need to use my Color Checker Passport to do this when Im out shooting. Thanks Keep it up
Disappointed you did not show the shot of the falls taken with reading off the gray card. It would have been interesting to see how the direct sun on the card had affected the shot - underexposed?
While I appreciate and use my Xrite color checker, I still don't understand why (since you are shooting digital) you would use it to check exposure. You have a monitor and histogram available on your camera. Shoot. Check. Adjust. Shoot again. Done.
Because a calibrated white card or grey card is faster and more efficient than trial & error methods. It is a commercial device, however it does take away the guesswork from figuring out the perfect exposure and WB. For studio and macro shots, this is invaluable. Last thing you want is to muck around for 5 minutes in Lightroom to adjust exposure for your model shots. Measure once, have close to 100% accuracy from the factory for the dies, and save post-processing time.
Thanks for the info. Just how universal is such a profile, or even a profile just based on outdoor light? If i create it based on photos taken in the winter in the morning in Seattle for example, does it work just as well in the summer in the afternoon in Los Angeles?
I made a custom profile for my camera in my studio under my strobes. I use this one camera profile for everything shot with the camera. I only have to white balance the scene. Am I missing something with this method? Why do I need custom camera profiles from multiple locations? It just seems to be too much to have all these profiles in Lightroom. Why not use just one?
You don't. A profile created in a similar light will align the chomatics towards a maximum of your sensor. To be perfectly balanced for any one condition then you can profile for that condition. Let's say you make an outdoor daylight profile, it will align the colors for that scene, yet it still will be good for other similar scenes, just not as accurate. Does that mean that you cannot take advantage of the chart? No Daylight has too many nuances to fit into a box, sometimes just let the scene live with the differences of color captured.
Adobe changed the camera profile location in updates that launched in 2018. The Profile Browser was added in the update with Lightroom Classic CC 7.3 and Adobe Camera Raw 10.3. If you open Lightroom Classic CC 7.3 or ACR 10.3 or higher and navigate to the Develop Module on the right hand side of the window you will see the Histogram and directly below that the "Basic" panel. The second option down in these options will show "Profile:" if you either click the drop-down arrows and select Browse or click the 4-small squares to the right of that the "Basic" panel then changes to Profile Browser. Your camera profiles should be listed under the "Profiles" section in the Profile Browser area. You may want to change this option to the List view here which made it easier to navigate by list rather than the grid or large views. Adobe Camera Raw 10.3 will have very similar options in the Basic panel as Lightroom Classic CC 7.3.
Seems like a lot of time and effort for little improvement. Just shoot raw and adjust colour balance on your camera or Lightroom. Use proper metering techniques i.e. a gray card for proper exposure.
Thank you Joe, always great to see and learn from you.
Stay safe my friend
Excellent video Joe. Thanks.
Excellent and so timely - I'm teaching these techniques in a workshop tomorrow and this will be excellent reinforcement!
Thanx for the video. Always love that host.
Do we need to create a separate profile for every single scenario or does this become the default profile?
This is a must have tool if you're a pro or even a beginner! Plus it works really well with Davinci Resolve 16+. Nice job
Hey thanks! Happy Holidays and stay safe!
@@Calibrite aren't we supposed to use the second square from left (on the bottom row) for white balance? I think that's the one that corresponds to the grey card used for white balance. it's confusing as some people use the leftmost square to white balance, as you did here. which one is more correct? thanks
from the manual "How to Set White Balance in Aperture Aperture’s white balance is similar. In the Adjustments panel, scroll down to white balance. Click on the eyedropper; then, for a neutral white balance, select either the first patch on the left in the portrait row, or the middle patch on the landscape row."
the first patch in the portrait row is the same as the middle one on the landscape. they are most definitely not the same as the leftmost patch you used to white balance in this video.
Hello, what profile do you have set in Sony when taking a color checker photo?
Are the x-rite and the calibrite one and same product from the same company?
If yes, does it mean that the plug-in for calibrite can be downloaded for free also?
Yes, the ColorChecker Camera Calibration software can be downloaded from calibrite.com/software-downloads/
Fab, I love it, just got it today and your vid was V-helpful. One Q. If i set the custom white balance on my camera using the light grey part of the card. Then I also calibrate the colorchecker via lightroom ... do I need to also use the grey dropper to click on one of the greys on the card in the photo? That would not be necessary right? Because it is all fixed? Also, does it adjust for exposure too, since it has a greyscale on the card? Just wondering if how much to mess with the photo after calibration is done. Thanks, Dana!
Thanks Joe.
Thanks for this video. Is this video enough to learn everything about how to use the color checker passport? Or there is some other stuff out there. Where can we find those resources.
guessing if your using a polarizer or nd filters , you would take a pic of ccpp before you put the filters on?
Good stuff Joe. Only 1 issue, in the video you said you were using the Sony a7R4 but when you showed the section using the software to create the profile you named it Sony a6400 (just a minor thing for consistency) :) I need to use my Color Checker Passport to do this when Im out shooting. Thanks Keep it up
Disappointed you did not show the shot of the falls taken with reading off the gray card.
It would have been interesting to see how the direct sun on the card had affected the shot - underexposed?
While I appreciate and use my Xrite color checker, I still don't understand why (since you are shooting digital) you would use it to check exposure. You have a monitor and histogram available on your camera. Shoot. Check. Adjust. Shoot again. Done.
Because sales LOL
Because a calibrated white card or grey card is faster and more efficient than trial & error methods. It is a commercial device, however it does take away the guesswork from figuring out the perfect exposure and WB. For studio and macro shots, this is invaluable. Last thing you want is to muck around for 5 minutes in Lightroom to adjust exposure for your model shots. Measure once, have close to 100% accuracy from the factory for the dies, and save post-processing time.
Thanks for the info. Just how universal is such a profile, or even a profile just based on outdoor light? If i create it based on photos taken in the winter in the morning in Seattle for example, does it work just as well in the summer in the afternoon in Los Angeles?
you make a new profile when your in a different lighting situation,with a new name every time,new shoot new profile
I made a custom profile for my camera in my studio under my strobes. I use this one camera profile for everything shot with the camera. I only have to white balance the scene. Am I missing something with this method? Why do I need custom camera profiles from multiple locations? It just seems to be too much to have all these profiles in Lightroom. Why not use just one?
You don't. A profile created in a similar light will align the chomatics towards a maximum of your sensor. To be perfectly balanced for any one condition then you can profile for that condition. Let's say you make an outdoor daylight profile, it will align the colors for that scene, yet it still will be good for other similar scenes, just not as accurate. Does that mean that you cannot take advantage of the chart? No Daylight has too many nuances to fit into a box, sometimes just let the scene live with the differences of color captured.
Have a look at Andrew Rodney's "Dng Camera Profiles" video on RUclips
How often do you have to do this? Once for every camera or once at every different lighting scene?
You should take a test shot with the target with each camera in each unique lighting scenario.
@@Calibrite Awesome! Thank you!
How do you use this in camera raw 2021? the software can't seem to find my custom profile.
Hi Florin, have you followed these steps? www.xrite.com/service-support/creating_dng_profiles_for_adobe_camera_raw
@@Calibrite I have and after completing the process I cannot locate the new profile in Cameraraw.
Adobe changed the camera profile location in updates that launched in 2018.
The Profile Browser was added in the update with Lightroom Classic CC 7.3 and Adobe Camera Raw 10.3. If you open Lightroom Classic CC 7.3 or ACR 10.3 or higher and navigate to the Develop Module on the right hand side of the window you will see the Histogram and directly below that the "Basic" panel. The second option down in these options will show "Profile:" if you either click the drop-down arrows and select Browse or click the 4-small squares to the right of that the "Basic" panel then changes to Profile Browser. Your camera profiles should be listed under the "Profiles" section in the Profile Browser area. You may want to change this option to the List view here which made it easier to navigate by list rather than the grid or large views. Adobe Camera Raw 10.3 will have very similar options in the Basic panel as Lightroom Classic CC 7.3.
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so they are finally marketing the sekonic version...
Time to upgrade.
That’s a lot of work just to take a photo.
Seems like a lot of time and effort for little improvement. Just shoot raw and adjust colour balance on your camera or Lightroom. Use proper metering techniques i.e. a gray card for proper exposure.