Followed your video and instructions and it worked. I'm just a girl who doesn't know much about cars but I have fixed many home appliances items with RUclips videos and thought I would try to fix my car. I will count this one as one of my many successful fix-its. Thank you, Oliver. Both my driver-side window and passenger window had the same issue. Followed all of your steps and the link you gave for the parts to fix my 2012 Mazda CX9 - took me 90 minutes from start to finish (1 hour on the first window and 30 min. on the second one) and now I have working windows again. And my husband thinks I'm awesome because of it! Lol
Thanks for video. My 2013 CX9 doing the same. Same fix and how to for replacing motor. Bought motor online for $25. I actually only had to disconnect the lower panel lightbulb and was able to reach motor with ratchet and small extension. I found that a 10mm socket is a factory fit to remove two lower screws. Thanks again. Only took me 23 minutes start to finish thanks to you.
Joseph, I wanted to leave you a comment to say THANK YOU for posting this video. I never would have felt competent enough to attempt this on my own. After watching your video a bunch of times, I fixed both the driver and passenger windows on Saturday in about half an hour.
Just did both front windows on our 2012 cx9 this morning. The motors were 50 dollars a piece on amazon. The only thing I would add to the video is that the two control wires that you take off that attach to the door locks need to be placed back into a holder. When you remove the door panel, they pop out before you can see what they looked like when it’s in place. Just place the wires back into the mechanism and the follow the body panel and push the wires into the door. You will see there is a notch that the wire harness sits in. Thank you for the video, it really helped me and yes it was very easy with your help. By the way they wanted 800 dollars per window to fix it at the dealer. Total cost for me , $102.00!
Thank you for this. I replaced both the driver’s and passenger. However, on the drivers side, I can’t get the auto lock to work from inside the car. It must be some configuration with the switch position and cable at the time of reinstalling. I haven’t been able to find a video that shows how to remedy this issue.
@@SahanTheMighty If I remember correctly, the wires for the lock pops off and you don’t even see it out of the socket. Just make sure they are plugged back in correctly. They may be loose!
@@17forever64 thank you. I did pop them back in but there seems to be a position the locks needs to be in (on/off) when the cables go back into the slots. I’ve tried a few positions and it hasn’t worked. I will keep searching for the solution.
Thanks Oliver, great video, same issue. You made me confident i can do this:). Two years ago the same problem on the other door costed me $500. Now i can do it for much less.
I wanted to see every move you did and was a little disappointed that you did not show when you removed the actual motor. I guess that can be guessed and go with the intuition. The diagnosis appears to be what the car I am working on is doing. Thanks.
Your diagnosis really helped me. I had the exact same symptoms. Most diagnosis involved checking power etc. This video inspired me to just order the motors and that was exactly what I needed. Wife is very happy now! I'm keeping the motors and may just replace the gear inside for the next repair.
Thanks for sharing, this was a big help. One challenge i had was the “receiving” gear that the new motor plugs into was loose and tough to align after I removed the old motor. I had to remove a few more screws and get my hand behind the interior panel to hold it in place while I lined up the new motor and loosely threaded the 3 screws. Other than that it went pretty smoothly.
The part behind the door handle is an escutcheon, the little white things that break easily are door panel clips and what you should use to remove the door panel is a trim removal kit. Very cheap on Amazon, of course. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Joseph. Used this video to help with passenger side window. I had the same clicking sound and intermittently not going up or down. Had to take out some screws from the backplate since the female flywheel was disengaged in order to reset it. Bought doorman part on Amazon, $56. Thanks again for posting.
Morgan, so glad to help! I am revisiting this video, as my passenger side just went out and I am going to have to replace it. Thanks for the tip... around $50 on Amazon!
@@Thesmallerpictureyoutube Here is the one I bought. Dorman 742-802 Mazda Window Lift Motor www.amazon.com/dp/B0074DFHLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXYEBbMZMW7XH
Te agradezco por los subtítulos, me sirvió mucho, yo también arregle mi Mazda CX9 del mismo detalle, tan solo cambie el engrane y ahorre $100, excelente día !
thank you, mine is making the same noise. My new regulator and motor came in today but I think I will try just installing the motor. I did see a video that showed just replacing a plastic gear within the motor that is available for $7 on the internet. That may be an option you would like to try instead of buying a motor.
I did consider it - however - I did not want to risk taking apart the motor and having another part go bad or not being able to properly reassemble the motor. It was a safer bet to replace the whole assembly. It certainly is less expensive and a bit more adventurous to replace the plastic gear.
You can also pop open the motor and just replace the gear. While marginally worth in given the motor assy is about $30 on Amazon. However, since the gears are not left/right specific, it might be worth it to just have a spare since they are $6-7 on Amazon.
Thanks for your video. It helped extremely. Replacing the right front first was a bit slower then the driver side. Saved me pocket full of money. Purchased both window motors at O'Reilly's Auto Parts for only 109. each plus tax.
Thank you for posting this. I found another video that shows a procedure where you don't have to remove the cables from the door opener latch. The whole assembly just pops loose and you can twist out of the door panel ruclips.net/video/gkKExPVkOz4/видео.html. I found this to be pretty easy
Hey Joseph, thank you for posting this video, exact same problem with my wife's car and I used this video to correct it. Works perfectly. I broke a few clips pulling the door out but window works perfect.
Hi Rui, you’re welcome! I think I recall breaking a few clips as well... I am terrible with getting the parts off gently! But.. when it goes back together if it looks fine, it’s okay with me. :)
If you decide to order the entire motor assembly, instead of just the nylon gear that broke, make sure you order the one for the front drivers window. There are different motors for left and right sides, and the drivers window specifically.
Thanks for the tip... I felt more secure buying the assembly myself as opposed to just the faulty gear. The side designation may not be obvious so I am glad you mentioned it here.
Exact same problem and noise on my driver window. I have taken the entire door assembly apart twice to check the regulator but of course nothing was changed. At least now I can try with just buying the motor. Mazda quoted me almost $400. Im assuming all motors are relatively the same but maybe add in what motor you used and how much you paid for it.Ill give min a shot this weekend.
I bought one on eBay - open box but never used. It was a Dorman window motor, # 742-801. Around $38. I own an auto parts company at the top of the supply chain - take the following advice: Find a well-known brand (like Dorman) on RockAuto or eBay and trust that the part you buy is going to be nearly identical, if not the exact same part, that you get in the OE Mazda package.
Joseph Oliver yikes, thanks for the heads up. I was about to get the cheapest one on Amazon for $38. Sounds like the cheap route is just a quick way back to the same problem.
I really don't think so. We sell some OE product to brands and the part will end up on eBay. At the end of the day, there is usually no difference between OE and the eBay part for most auto parts. There are basically two categories - the really cheap stuff which is truly junk, and then everything else. Regardless of price, most parts are exactly the same.
Joseph Oliver now I’m going to message you every time I want to fix something. Haha apparently my front has warped rotors since the brakes checked out great. Never knew they could warp but they started to shake under braking by 5k miles.
Hi Joseph! Awesome video. My local mechanic shop said the motor and regulator needed to be replaced in my window (same car as you). Was that the case with yours?
Jasmine, thank you! Fortunately, mine was just the motor. From what I can find, the regulator is a more complicated replacement and I may have ended up having a shop repair that part.
Followed your video and instructions and it worked. I'm just a girl who doesn't know much about cars but I have fixed many home appliances items with RUclips videos and thought I would try to fix my car. I will count this one as one of my many successful fix-its. Thank you, Oliver.
Both my driver-side window and passenger window had the same issue. Followed all of your steps and the link you gave for the parts to fix my 2012 Mazda CX9 - took me 90 minutes from start to finish (1 hour on the first window and 30 min. on the second one) and now I have working windows again. And my husband thinks I'm awesome because of it! Lol
This is awesome!! You’re welcome, this comment made my day!
Ohhh this is so reassuring! Im nervous to do it but the quoted price is so much, and both front windows need gears replaced
Thanks for the video. The proper size for the bolts is 10mm, BTW.
Thanks for doing this. Very helpful
Thanks for video. My 2013 CX9 doing the same. Same fix and how to for replacing motor. Bought motor online for $25. I actually only had to disconnect the lower panel lightbulb and was able to reach motor with ratchet and small extension. I found that a 10mm socket is a factory fit to remove two lower screws. Thanks again. Only took me 23 minutes start to finish thanks to you.
You’re welcome!
Thanks for posting
Success 🍻! ... thanks to your video & Amazon...take care.
Thank you for your video, everything went so perfectly that it made me nervous thinking that I had to have missed something, but I didn’t.
Joseph, I wanted to leave you a comment to say THANK YOU for posting this video. I never would have felt competent enough to attempt this on my own. After watching your video a bunch of times, I fixed both the driver and passenger windows on Saturday in about half an hour.
Hi Joshua, you’re welcome! I am very glad to have helped.
I feel better about attempting this job, thanks to you video. Much obliged.
Just did both front windows on our 2012 cx9 this morning. The motors were 50 dollars a piece on amazon. The only thing I would add to the video is that the two control wires that you take off that attach to the door locks need to be placed back into a holder. When you remove the door panel, they pop out before you can see what they looked like when it’s in place. Just place the wires back into the mechanism and the follow the body panel and push the wires into the door. You will see there is a notch that the wire harness sits in. Thank you for the video, it really helped me and yes it was very easy with your help. By the way they wanted 800 dollars per window to fix it at the dealer. Total cost for me , $102.00!
Nice! and thank you for filling in the information for my oversight - nice catch!
The stealership.
Thank you for this. I replaced both the driver’s and passenger. However, on the drivers side, I can’t get the auto lock to work from inside the car. It must be some configuration with the switch position and cable at the time of reinstalling. I haven’t been able to find a video that shows how to remedy this issue.
@@SahanTheMighty If I remember correctly, the wires for the lock pops off and you don’t even see it out of the socket. Just make sure they are plugged back in correctly. They may be loose!
@@17forever64 thank you. I did pop them back in but there seems to be a position the locks needs to be in (on/off) when the cables go back into the slots. I’ve tried a few positions and it hasn’t worked. I will keep searching for the solution.
I’m not the biggest fix it guy but I’m feeling confident I can do this. Thank you! I appreciate your video.
You’re welcome!
Thanks for the video 🤙
Thanks Oliver, great video, same issue. You made me confident i can do this:). Two years ago the same problem on the other door costed me $500. Now i can do it for much less.
I wanted to see every move you did and was a little disappointed that you did not show when you removed the actual motor. I guess that can be guessed and go with the intuition. The diagnosis appears to be what the car I am working on is doing. Thanks.
Your diagnosis really helped me. I had the exact same symptoms. Most diagnosis involved checking power etc. This video inspired me to just order the motors and that was exactly what I needed. Wife is very happy now! I'm keeping the motors and may just replace the gear inside for the next repair.
Glad to help!!
Thanks for the vid
Having the exact same issue with my 2012 Mazda 5 Drivers window. Glad to know I just need to replace the motor and not the whole regulator. Thanks!
Great video. Used it for the driver's side motor last year. Getting ready to do the other side now. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Awesome video Joseph!!! Just heard that same noise yesterday and now I know what needs to be done! Have a great day!!!
Thanks!
I'm having same issue with my 2012...great video and thanks! Found new motors on ebay for $20...unexpected cheap fix.
Thanks for sharing, this was a big help. One challenge i had was the “receiving” gear that the new motor plugs into was loose and tough to align after I removed the old motor. I had to remove a few more screws and get my hand behind the interior panel to hold it in place while I lined up the new motor and loosely threaded the 3 screws. Other than that it went pretty smoothly.
The part behind the door handle is an escutcheon, the little white things that break easily are door panel clips and what you should use to remove the door panel is a trim removal kit. Very cheap on Amazon, of course. Thanks for the video.
Question
Is motor the same for the 4 doors?
I got 3 windows that they aren’t working so I was wondering…
Not sure, sorry I can’t be of more help there!
Thank you Joseph. Used this video to help with passenger side window. I had the same clicking sound and intermittently not going up or down. Had to take out some screws from the backplate since the female flywheel was disengaged in order to reset it. Bought doorman part on Amazon, $56. Thanks again for posting.
Morgan, so glad to help! I am revisiting this video, as my passenger side just went out and I am going to have to replace it. Thanks for the tip... around $50 on Amazon!
@@Thesmallerpictureyoutube Here is the one I bought.
Dorman 742-802 Mazda Window Lift Motor www.amazon.com/dp/B0074DFHLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXYEBbMZMW7XH
Thanks
Saved me a couple hundred bucks. Super easy job. Great video. Thanks!
How Much Would You Charge For Do This? I'm Asking B/c My Neighbor Wants Me To Replace Place His One...
Call and get a quote from a repair shop, then discount that 30-40% 😅
Awesome job! Showing what was the real problem and how to fix it..
Joe-O, thanks for sharing your
super powers with the rest of us!
My pleasure!
Te agradezco por los subtítulos, me sirvió mucho, yo también arregle mi Mazda CX9 del mismo detalle, tan solo cambie el engrane y ahorre $100, excelente día !
thank you, mine is making the same noise. My new regulator and motor came in today but I think I will try just installing the motor. I did see a video that showed just replacing a plastic gear within the motor that is available for $7 on the internet. That may be an option you would like to try instead of buying a motor.
I did consider it - however - I did not want to risk taking apart the motor and having another part go bad or not being able to properly reassemble the motor. It was a safer bet to replace the whole assembly.
It certainly is less expensive and a bit more adventurous to replace the plastic gear.
Good job on the video. I have the exact pro b lem with my 2010 cx9 and now know how to replace it. Thanks!
Awesome, thanks for letting me know!
You can also pop open the motor and just replace the gear. While marginally worth in given the motor assy is about $30 on Amazon. However, since the gears are not left/right specific, it might be worth it to just have a spare since they are $6-7 on Amazon.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for your video. It helped extremely. Replacing the right front first was a bit slower then the driver side. Saved me pocket full of money. Purchased both window motors at O'Reilly's Auto Parts for only 109. each plus tax.
Very glad to help! RUclips makes life pretty easy sometimes...
Awesome! I figured it would have been double that if the shop did it... it’s great to save some cash.
Thank you for your wonderful and very helpful video
You're welcome!
Thank you for posting this. I found another video that shows a procedure where you don't have to remove the cables from the door opener latch. The whole assembly just pops loose and you can twist out of the door panel ruclips.net/video/gkKExPVkOz4/видео.html. I found this to be pretty easy
Thanks bro! You bailed me out of a jam.
Hey Joseph, thank you for posting this video, exact same problem with my wife's car and I used this video to correct it. Works perfectly. I broke a few clips pulling the door out but window works perfect.
So hard not to break the clips.. argh!
Glad it helped!
Hi Rui, you’re welcome! I think I recall breaking a few clips as well... I am terrible with getting the parts off gently! But.. when it goes back together if it looks fine, it’s okay with me. :)
Mazda need to do a recall on the windows, both of my Mazdas did the same thing and the car wasn't even 5 years old yet.
Yeah it is pretty ridiculous. I guess it is cheaper to make people upset than to initiate a recall.
Joseph Oliver sounds just right.
Thanks dude. So awesome- helped me fix my window!
Nice! Glad to help!
Wish you could have shown the bad part. Great video and job well.done!
Thank you, I’m gonna do this myself now!
If you decide to order the entire motor assembly, instead of just the nylon gear that broke, make sure you order the one for the front drivers window. There are different motors for left and right sides, and the drivers window specifically.
Thanks for the tip... I felt more secure buying the assembly myself as opposed to just the faulty gear. The side designation may not be obvious so I am glad you mentioned it here.
Exact same problem and noise on my driver window. I have taken the entire door assembly apart twice to check the regulator but of course nothing was changed. At least now I can try with just buying the motor. Mazda quoted me almost $400. Im assuming all motors are relatively the same but maybe add in what motor you used and how much you paid for it.Ill give min a shot this weekend.
I bought one on eBay - open box but never used. It was a Dorman window motor, # 742-801. Around $38. I own an auto parts company at the top of the supply chain - take the following advice: Find a well-known brand (like Dorman) on RockAuto or eBay and trust that the part you buy is going to be nearly identical, if not the exact same part, that you get in the OE Mazda package.
Joseph Oliver yikes, thanks for the heads up. I was about to get the cheapest one on Amazon for $38. Sounds like the cheap route is just a quick way back to the same problem.
I really don't think so. We sell some OE product to brands and the part will end up on eBay. At the end of the day, there is usually no difference between OE and the eBay part for most auto parts. There are basically two categories - the really cheap stuff which is truly junk, and then everything else. Regardless of price, most parts are exactly the same.
Joseph Oliver now I’m going to message you every time I want to fix something. Haha apparently my front has warped rotors since the brakes checked out great. Never knew they could warp but they started to shake under braking by 5k miles.
Feel free! I don't know too much but what I do I will share.
I had same problem . I purchased plastic gear from Ebay 5 $ ، I changed it without change the motor . I am smarter ✌🏼
Can u help me with the link to buy that gear please thank you
Hi Joseph! Awesome video. My local mechanic shop said the motor and regulator needed to be replaced in my window (same car as you). Was that the case with yours?
Jasmine, thank you! Fortunately, mine was just the motor. From what I can find, the regulator is a more complicated replacement and I may have ended up having a shop repair that part.
too bad you didnt show the actual removal/install of the regulator motor, otherwise great video.
Thank you my window on my mazdacx9 is sounding the same ! Would this be the same for a 2011
Monica Wilson yes! Same part for the 2011 model year. Thanks!
Joseph Oliver thanks!😊
Lol love it as the kids cheer. 😆
6.5 Creed it’s always nice to have some extra encouragement! 👏
Nice, good job man
Where did you purchase cx-9 window motor, was it expensive?
I have same exact problem with my cx-9 2013..
I found an open box Dorman part on eBay, with a little searching.
Not bad
WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE TO SEE YOU TAKE THE OLD ONE OUT AND PUT THE NEW ONE IN
You are right. If I still had the car, I would go back and do it! Sorry I didn't think of that.
so not seeing make the replacement was pretty unhelpful.