I have had some luck using roughing endmills for that kind of cut on a smaller mill - take a fairly deep cut but carefully feeding part in. Or rough it out with bandsaw (having a roll-in conversion to a small horizontal bandsaw could be great for those kinds of cuts!). Also, on my Scripta D-bit grinder (which had no lathe bit holder etc), I made a holder for small bits that fit in my largest collet (about 5/8 dia). I milled out an axial square corner & made a small separate clamp that fit over it. This allowed me to rotate the tool by 180 deg, to cut both sides of a threading cutter without removing the tool. But I eventually restored a tiny KO Lee cutter grinder which is much more flexible, and only a little more floor space. Thx for the content!
Mick, I am so jealous of your tapping machine....last week I had to drill and tap [183] 1/2" -13 holes in 1 inch by 48x48 inch 6061 T6 plate......I sure was wishing I had a tapping arm........
just my 2 cents... .I would have used that Schrum ? face mill to hog out the profiles instead of the end mill, then come back with he end mill to square the face and sides if needed...... faster metal removal and the carbide can handle the heat and speed better than the HSS Endmill.... What is your opinion, best regards, an old fossil living and working still......Paul
Hey Paul, yeah I thought about that but there were two reasons I went with a HHS end mill. First I was worried about the interrupted cut on the inserts, I've done it before but with light cuts. Second, I wanted to see how the mill would handle deeper cuts with a regular end mill. I think the deepest cut I had tried up to this point was around 20-25 thou. Great suggestion though. And yes it's Shrum.
Enjoyed the video. I also have a Dbit grinder and had the same issue with holding smaller lathe tool bits. However, I solved the problem by machining "shoes" that raise and centre the lathe bit under the original clamp plate. Each shoe is a short length of square cross section bar with a milled out channel that matches the lathe bit profile (- you can see the idea here: ruclips.net/video/bW0BHQw7b58/видео.html). Simple to make and keeps the lathe bit on the centre line of the holder. Cheers, Alan.
Of course I thought of something similar when I was done. Even just a couple of "shims" for either side with longer clamp screws. I wasn't too concerned about keeping the tool centered, the only time I can think of where it would be important is for grinding a circular form tool, which doesn't seem likely. Now of course that I have said that it will be the next thing I need to do.... 😊
Using a HSS endmill is just fine. You're working in your garage. Its a hobby, Mistakes, everyone makes them. Thats how we learn. Great video. 👍
This was a cool project and it turned out great. It is always good to learn some lessons from a project
I have had some luck using roughing endmills for that kind of cut on a smaller mill - take a fairly deep cut but carefully feeding part in. Or rough it out with bandsaw (having a roll-in conversion to a small horizontal bandsaw could be great for those kinds of cuts!).
Also, on my Scripta D-bit grinder (which had no lathe bit holder etc), I made a holder for small bits that fit in my largest collet (about 5/8 dia). I milled out an axial square corner & made a small separate clamp that fit over it. This allowed me to rotate the tool by 180 deg, to cut both sides of a threading cutter without removing the tool. But I eventually restored a tiny KO Lee cutter grinder which is much more flexible, and only a little more floor space. Thx for the content!
Yeah, as usual it occurred to me after the fact that I should have probably used a roughing end mill.
alright Mick......thanks so much.....Paul in Florida
Great adaptation Mick
will work well👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
atb
Kev (uk)
Mick,
I am so jealous of your tapping machine....last week I had to drill and tap
[183] 1/2" -13 holes in 1 inch by 48x48 inch 6061 T6 plate......I sure was wishing I
had a tapping arm........
One of my upcoming projects is a pneumatic tapping arm... 😁
Well, s**t happens to all of us.
But that will work. For sure.
just my 2 cents...
.I would have used that Schrum ? face mill to hog out the profiles
instead of the end mill, then come back with he end mill to square the face and sides if needed......
faster metal removal and the carbide can handle the heat and speed better than the HSS Endmill....
What is your opinion,
best regards, an old fossil living and working still......Paul
Hey Paul, yeah I thought about that but there were two reasons I went with a HHS end mill. First I was worried about the interrupted cut on the inserts, I've done it before but with light cuts. Second, I wanted to see how the mill would handle deeper cuts with a regular end mill. I think the deepest cut I had tried up to this point was around 20-25 thou. Great suggestion though. And yes it's Shrum.
Enjoyed the video. I also have a Dbit grinder and had the same issue with holding smaller lathe tool bits. However, I solved the problem by machining "shoes" that raise and centre the lathe bit under the original clamp plate. Each shoe is a short length of square cross section bar with a milled out channel that matches the lathe bit profile (- you can see the idea here: ruclips.net/video/bW0BHQw7b58/видео.html). Simple to make and keeps the lathe bit on the centre line of the holder.
Cheers, Alan.
Of course I thought of something similar when I was done. Even just a couple of "shims" for either side with longer clamp screws. I wasn't too concerned about keeping the tool centered, the only time I can think of where it would be important is for grinding a circular form tool, which doesn't seem likely. Now of course that I have said that it will be the next thing I need to do.... 😊
👍👍😎👍👍