I built an access panel a few years ago similar to this, and have a bit of advice for those watching this video wanting to do the same. Note, I didn't watch this video when I built mine and have learned from trial and error. First, if your access panel is large, maybe any larger than the one pictured in this video, the full 2x4 frame can actually get quite heavy for some family members to lift and remove. I have opted to rebuild my access panel with the frame pieces only in the corners and long side to reduce the weight. Second, the part sticking up that this video shows at the beginning is absolutely crucial. I didn't have this in my first attempt, and the pressure change from the furnace / AC kicking on actually sent the access panel crashing to the ground more than once. You need those frame corners sticking up at least 1/4 inch or more above the access door to hold it in place during pressure changes. The casing board around to trim it up will hold it in place the opposite way. Third, it might seem like a good idea to cut a hole and then use the same piece of drywall as the door, because it will be a snug fit. As briefly mentioned in this video, you actually want it a bit loose. This is so that you can maneuver it to lift and remove the panel, otherwise that tight fit will get in your way and you'll practically break the trim pieces trying to get it off the wall. I trimmed around 1/2 inch from the top of mine. When measuring, be sure your frame extends that extra 1/2 inch! Finally, if you're using a piece of drywall, the sides and top of the drywall piece will just be gypsum, and will crumble to the touch. If you ever accidentally drop the panel or put it down rough, there's a chance it will just break. I found that painting the edge around the panel helps seal it very well, and prevents dust from crumbling off every time you move the panel. One additional step I eventually took was using bondo on the corners only. It hardens like a rock and made them very strong / break free, as this was an issue on mine after a few times the panel fell due to pressure changes. I wouldn't recommend the bondo for everyone, but it depends on how you plan on trimming it I guess, or if you want your piece of drywall to be more secure.
This was awesome! Your explanations were very easy to follow, unlike some videos I watch on home improvement stuff. I also appreciated seeing you juggle being a busy dad while working on the project. As a busy dad myself, it was motivating to see another parent in action, and indirectly teaching their kid extremely valuable life skills in the process. My kids never fail to decide they're going to talk to me when I'm in a meeting with a manager or something. 😄Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! I've had so many people say something along the same line as this. I have always strive to present things in a professional manner, and kids have often made that challenging. So to know that most people appreciate the content regardless is very much appreciated. Thank you again!
Sounds like you have an awesome little helper there. It’s awesome to see you including him on vids. Especially showing him a trade. I wish I had learned that early. You should include him more.
I was planning to build a 4'x3' access door using old closet doors but after see this video, I like your drywall panel idea a lot better. So you sir deserve a Like!
Great video sir. The panel looks amazing! My wife and I very much enjoyed the fact that you did not cut the parts out that had your camera man talking. It is very endearing!
The easiest to follow and understand. Feeling confident enough to try this for myself. Watched at least 6 videos that left me with questions but this one didn't. Thanks!
I agree, we’ll done and very clear. I just bought a small condo and the water heater in under the kitchen island. How the inspector found it is beyond me, but he had to cut the Sheetrock out to get to it. I’ll use the video to repair abs maintain future access. And I can add matching trim “faux” doors to tie it all together. Thanks so much!
I've been agonising over the best way to do an access panel - was originally thinking a repurposed closet door but I love the simplicity of this idea! Your camera-person and your directorial instructions to them were classic! Bravo (pun intended) to you both!!!
For a hidden access panel you could put the Sheetrock on and then have a mirror cut to the same size and frame it in. Then people would just think it’s a wall mirror.
Thanks for the help brother. I just built the very same panel. You saved me $200 on buying a closet door that would have looked out of place. That design is simple, effective and well explained. You get a like, a suscribe, a share and a bell hit. Well done sir!
I like this. Need to do something like this for access to my air handler. Getting tired over removing trim boards and a section of sheetrock every time in need to get to it. Thanks!
Thanks for the vid. Clever use of an LBV too - I'd not seen that before and made me chuckle. Coincides with the channel name, and would have infinite customization.
I cut out two access holes (24x19" (above the bathtub) and 33x16" (above the door to the bathroom in the master bedroom)) to monitor termite activity after I treat the walls there inside w/Termidor. I think to use this clever method to make the access panels. Can I use Poplar 0.75x2.5x as needed" inside and frame it w/0.25x2.5"x as needed" outside. The walls are painted and stencilled, so I think if I use those thin poplar pieces w/thickness 0.25", the panels will be less visible (I'll paint and stencill the edges of those panels same way as walls). I'll do 4-6 screws into the studs in addition, but still not sure if I can use so thin wood for framing. Thank you so much for such a clever idea for the access panels. I cut another access hole (16 x 16") to monitor the second bathtub for possible leaks or smth and planned to hang the door from the drywall on hinges. But the method shown in this film is so much better.
Great idea and nicely done. However, one caution: I don't think this will work on a load bearing wall if opening is to be wider than existing stud spacing. This solution requires that a header is not used, since space is needed for the two extended 2x4's. Great idea for a non-load bearing wall. I plan to use this in an upcoming project.
man this is an excellent video thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. One question for you. On the top trim piece where/how do you decide to put the 45 deg cut? I know you only want like 1/2" lip on the trim but I dont understand where to put the 45. Thanks!
Suggestion: To avoid the possible top slide-in conflict (which I did experience) from a tight fit, use a 5/8" drywall section rather than the same 1/2" wall thickness. But also a thin shim of material will work too, such as thick tape.
Thanks so much, I left a comment to another reply about how clearly you explain the process and I appreciate the video. I also have a question, my opening will be much smaller, is it necessary to use 2x4 and frame out the entire pieces of drywall? Could I use scrap pallet wood and just put the base pieces and the upper side/ears on the back. Would that be enough to hold it in place? It would definitely make it lighter. Since I don’t foresee having to access the water heater often, I’m not sure I need such a robust framing behind. Thanks for your reply.
Unfortunately you would need something that is at least 1" wide to screw into... and it would need to go from top to bottom. The drywall is too flimsy to not have some sort of support.
Hey brother, great video! Question for a newbie to the home building. How did you manage such perfect cuts in your drywall? Or was the door space thought of before hand? I have my drywall up and need to cut the hole so would you have any idea how to make such perfect cuts?
www.lowes.com/pd/2-1-2-in-x-12-ft-Pine-Primed-Finger-Joint-Chair-Rail-Moulding-Actual-2-5-in-x-12-ft/1000256159 Its.just a simple chair rail molding... i linked.the one i used however even a door & window casing will work
@@bravocompanyhomeimprovemen8742 could I please ask if you could repeat the measurements of ends of the board past the top board. You said 2 inches but it looks longer than that. I’m asking about the measurement of the ends of the board past the top plate that will hold the panel from falling out at the top. I am sorry if I seem to be second guessing you. It just looks like more than 2 inches. Thanks in advance and this idea helped me figure out how I want to finish off my access instead of having some custom door made.
I built an access panel a few years ago similar to this, and have a bit of advice for those watching this video wanting to do the same. Note, I didn't watch this video when I built mine and have learned from trial and error.
First, if your access panel is large, maybe any larger than the one pictured in this video, the full 2x4 frame can actually get quite heavy for some family members to lift and remove. I have opted to rebuild my access panel with the frame pieces only in the corners and long side to reduce the weight.
Second, the part sticking up that this video shows at the beginning is absolutely crucial. I didn't have this in my first attempt, and the pressure change from the furnace / AC kicking on actually sent the access panel crashing to the ground more than once. You need those frame corners sticking up at least 1/4 inch or more above the access door to hold it in place during pressure changes. The casing board around to trim it up will hold it in place the opposite way.
Third, it might seem like a good idea to cut a hole and then use the same piece of drywall as the door, because it will be a snug fit. As briefly mentioned in this video, you actually want it a bit loose. This is so that you can maneuver it to lift and remove the panel, otherwise that tight fit will get in your way and you'll practically break the trim pieces trying to get it off the wall. I trimmed around 1/2 inch from the top of mine. When measuring, be sure your frame extends that extra 1/2 inch!
Finally, if you're using a piece of drywall, the sides and top of the drywall piece will just be gypsum, and will crumble to the touch. If you ever accidentally drop the panel or put it down rough, there's a chance it will just break. I found that painting the edge around the panel helps seal it very well, and prevents dust from crumbling off every time you move the panel. One additional step I eventually took was using bondo on the corners only. It hardens like a rock and made them very strong / break free, as this was an issue on mine after a few times the panel fell due to pressure changes. I wouldn't recommend the bondo for everyone, but it depends on how you plan on trimming it I guess, or if you want your piece of drywall to be more secure.
This was awesome! Your explanations were very easy to follow, unlike some videos I watch on home improvement stuff. I also appreciated seeing you juggle being a busy dad while working on the project. As a busy dad myself, it was motivating to see another parent in action, and indirectly teaching their kid extremely valuable life skills in the process. My kids never fail to decide they're going to talk to me when I'm in a meeting with a manager or something. 😄Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! I've had so many people say something along the same line as this. I have always strive to present things in a professional manner, and kids have often made that challenging. So to know that most people appreciate the content regardless is very much appreciated. Thank you again!
Sounds like you have an awesome little helper there. It’s awesome to see you including him on vids. Especially showing him a trade. I wish I had learned that early. You should include him more.
I was planning to build a 4'x3' access door using old closet doors but after see this video, I like your drywall panel idea a lot better. So you sir deserve a Like!
Damn. This is way easier than trying to tape, mud, sand, more mud then more sand, prime then a full paint job. Great idea
I've watched a few of these access panel "how to" videos and yours definitely looks the nicest!
Thanks I appreciate that!
Great video sir. The panel looks amazing! My wife and I very much enjoyed the fact that you did not cut the parts out that had your camera man talking. It is very endearing!
Thank you I actually prior to uploading thought I had cut it out... found out differently after the fact lol.
The easiest to follow and understand. Feeling confident enough to try this for myself. Watched at least 6 videos that left me with questions but this one didn't. Thanks!
Very happy that this was able to help you out! I try to make good content that is easy to follow.
I agree, we’ll done and very clear. I just bought a small condo and the water heater in under the kitchen island. How the inspector found it is beyond me, but he had to cut the Sheetrock out to get to it. I’ll use the video to repair abs maintain future access. And I can add matching trim “faux” doors to tie it all together. Thanks so much!
With respect to how-to build vertical access panel, this is the best one that I have seen. Well done sir!
Thank you! For this easy explanation and your kid is very cute helping out dad!
I've been agonising over the best way to do an access panel - was originally thinking a repurposed closet door but I love the simplicity of this idea! Your camera-person and your directorial instructions to them were classic! Bravo (pun intended) to you both!!!
Thank you! We have a five foot by 30? Inch opening and this solves my access door problem.
Dude if I could come there and hug you I would. You have solved such a big problem for me!!!! Hurrah to you mate!
For a hidden access panel you could put the Sheetrock on and then have a mirror cut to the same size and frame it in. Then people would just think it’s a wall mirror.
"Go!"
Nice fun video, thanks!
Very clever. This solves our need for an access panel to our plumbing stack. Thank YOU!
I love that you are having your kiddo help you. 😀 I don't have the patience 😓
Absolutely ingenious. No hinges or door nobs needed!! ❤
Pretty slick idea. I need to make 2 small access panels for emergency lines shutoffs in my laundry room. Something like this will work nicely.
Love your sweet little helper’s intentions !!!
Thanks for the help brother.
I just built the very same panel.
You saved me $200 on buying a closet door that would have looked out of place.
That design is simple, effective and well explained.
You get a like, a suscribe, a share and a bell hit.
Well done sir!
Camera person was on point. Thank you was looking for way to seal my entertainment center wall
Hey WOW , Really like the way you did that , Will use your idea on some tub access opening . Thanks for taking the time to help others .
I like this. Need to do something like this for access to my air handler. Getting tired over removing trim boards and a section of sheetrock every time in need to get to it. Thanks!
Great video, I used this to make a shower plumbing access door. Thanks for sharing.
What a great video. Thanks for this! Need access to my shut off valves for a shower and this is a great idea. 👍🏼
"Someone's calling you." 😁
Nice video. Thanks
Nice and simple. Love it!
Thanks for the vid. Clever use of an LBV too - I'd not seen that before and made me chuckle. Coincides with the channel name, and would have infinite customization.
Thanks! I have to cover the master water shut off and they don't make panels that cover the measurements I need. This helps nicely.
Thank you sir ! The best idea for a acces door.
I like that better than the plastic doors for like a water access. I think I will do that in my closet so can access the bathtub faucet etc.
Clever idea and solid execution!
Love your camera people!!!!!!
I cut out two access holes (24x19" (above the bathtub) and 33x16" (above the door to the bathroom in the master bedroom)) to monitor termite activity after I treat the walls there inside w/Termidor. I think to use this clever method to make the access panels. Can I use Poplar 0.75x2.5x as needed" inside and frame it w/0.25x2.5"x as needed" outside. The walls are painted and stencilled, so I think if I use those thin poplar pieces w/thickness 0.25", the panels will be less visible (I'll paint and stencill the edges of those panels same way as walls). I'll do 4-6 screws into the studs in addition, but still not sure if I can use so thin wood for framing. Thank you so much for such a clever idea for the access panels. I cut another access hole (16 x 16") to monitor the second bathtub for possible leaks or smth and planned to hang the door from the drywall on hinges. But the method shown in this film is so much better.
Exactly what I need. Thank you!!!!!
This will do nicely to cover my small 24'' x 30'' attic access in my bonus room above the garage.
Just what I needed thanks bro!
Looks great, thanks for sharing!
Great idea and nicely done. However, one caution: I don't think this will work on a load bearing wall if opening is to be wider than existing stud spacing. This solution requires that a header is not used, since space is needed for the two extended 2x4's. Great idea for a non-load bearing wall. I plan to use this in an upcoming project.
Wow amazing how easy u made this n how great n functioning it is
That’s awesome!
Great very helpful. Great camera person too!
Thanks for this...exactly what I need👍
thumbs up on being ready to fight off the taliban while installing access panels!
Awsome idea! Easy and budget friendly.
Great video!
Cool! Nice job!
Thanks for the video. It is very helpful.
man this is an excellent video thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. One question for you. On the top trim piece where/how do you decide to put the 45 deg cut? I know you only want like 1/2" lip on the trim but I dont understand where to put the 45. Thanks!
I like using the coffee canister to hold the screws
Suggestion: To avoid the possible top slide-in conflict (which I did experience) from a tight fit, use a 5/8" drywall section rather than the same 1/2" wall thickness. But also a thin shim of material will work too, such as thick tape.
Great Idea! Thanks. Will definitely be using this. Any ideas on a ceiling access panel?
Good idea 👍
Thanks! Very helpful.
Great idea, thank!
at 8:20 , the Dad look! :)
Thanks so much, I left a comment to another reply about how clearly you explain the process and I appreciate the video. I also have a question, my opening will be much smaller, is it necessary to use 2x4 and frame out the entire pieces of drywall? Could I use scrap pallet wood and just put the base pieces and the upper side/ears on the back. Would that be enough to hold it in place? It would definitely make it lighter. Since I don’t foresee having to access the water heater often, I’m not sure I need such a robust framing behind. Thanks for your reply.
Unfortunately you would need something that is at least 1" wide to screw into... and it would need to go from top to bottom. The drywall is too flimsy to not have some sort of support.
Good job!!!
Good idea 👌
Got the big helper holding the camera...hehehe
Hey brother, great video! Question for a newbie to the home building. How did you manage such perfect cuts in your drywall? Or was the door space thought of before hand? I have my drywall up and need to cut the hole so would you have any idea how to make such perfect cuts?
I use an oscillating multi-tool, use a straightedge to make the lines then cut them with the multi-tool.
Cam girl stole the show I hope you paid her accordingly
Cool Video, thnx!
Yea but what keeps te bottom from popping out
Thanks!
Is this man going to war or putting in a access panel
lol 8:13 A men thank you camera girl lol
very nice video and I will use this method for my attic door access. Can u pls share the link for 2 1/2 inch trim board you are using?
www.lowes.com/pd/2-1-2-in-x-12-ft-Pine-Primed-Finger-Joint-Chair-Rail-Moulding-Actual-2-5-in-x-12-ft/1000256159
Its.just a simple chair rail molding... i linked.the one i used however even a door & window casing will work
@@bravocompanyhomeimprovemen8742 could I please ask if you could repeat the measurements of ends of the board past the top board. You said 2 inches but it looks longer than that. I’m asking about the measurement of the ends of the board past the top plate that will hold the panel from falling out at the top. I am sorry if I seem to be second guessing you. It just looks like more than 2 inches. Thanks in advance and this idea helped me figure out how I want to finish off my access instead of having some custom door made.
Is that 2.5 inch trim it looks bigger
😂 Stop making that noise…(kid continues making noise) Great tutorial and looks like you’ll need a tripod in your future;)
I have a similar setup under my stairs but much smaller without the 2x4s. What type of hinges could you use for this setup to make access easier?
Given the area is narrow and you have to squeeze through already
you might be able to use a piano hinge but I think the frame work would not allow it to open.
i like this because of the kid.
She's so cute don't tell her to "shhh"!
How do you get it off? Thank you!
Great video by the way!!
Nice
Drywall a couple studs... $300 door
Guess I'll make it out of pallets 😐
Jeez put your damn camera on a tripod. just couldn't watch anymore
Please level your audio.