Good video. I have a few suggestions: - Before you start with all the chemicals, grab the chain with a rag and spin the wheel to remove as much gunk as possible. - An O-ring chain doesn't need to be sparkly clean. The goal is just to get most of the junk off not make it look brand new. - Cut a piece of cardboard about 1' x 2' and hold it between the chain and wheel while you're working. It keeps the overspray and debris from contaminating the rotor, pads & tire. - Talaria MX4 pad bolts don't have a clip like yours, it's only a bolt. Use Loc-Tite on the threads (sparingly!) to keep it in place. - When torquing down the pad retaining bolt, use only the short end of the allen key for leverage. This makes it less likely to strip because you can't apply as much force. - When reinstalling pads, insert the bolt through the pads and spring to make it easier to install. This keeps everything in place as you insert the pads around the rotor. - Use resin pads if you have brake squeal. They also have better brake feel "modulation" but they fade more in wet conditions. I run resin up front and metal in back.
WARNING to whoever is cleaning their chain; DO NOT use the throttle to move the wheel instead of by hand I was doing that and my finger got sucked into the chain sprocket and I almost got my finger chopped off!! I got lucky and only the top part of my finger was cut off thankfully my whole finger wasn’t removed and only the skin was cut. WARNING learn from my mistake be safe and turn your wheel with your other hand
Almost happened to me, the brush I was using caught the chan for a second and almost pulled my fingers right into the sprocket, luckily my chan wasn't tight so it didn't do any damage to my bike.
nice vid dude. when I did my first oil change, I had my Talaria leveled on the ground, not resting on its kickstand. drained it and filled it just like that. it had gray goopie hair conditioner look and consistency when dirty oil came out like 50-60ml. no metal shavings that i could see. the debate about lifting the front tire to get the maximum 120ml is an overreaction, from my opinion. i filled it with a syringe kit from amazon until the dipstick check was sufficient and the oil did not overflow when placing the cap back on. I ride full throttle on sport mode daily 80-90% of the time and the gearbox is functioning very well with just the method I used watching the few early Talaria riders on YT like @Electric is better and @Oregon Motorcycle.
Thanks man! I couldn’t agree more about the oil change controversy. GritShift and I contacted Talaria to put it to rest and they confirmed you don’t lift the front wheel because then the excess will leave through the vent tube, onto the tire. They also said the manual has a typo that’ll be fixed in 2023 models. It’ll say only 75-95ml to refill. I’m so thrilled with how the gear box performs though. It’s snappy, worry free, and very quiet. I also owe big thanks to Oregon Motorcycle for his early videos. They definitely swayed me to buying the Talaria. And I wouldn’t change a thing.
@@haveagoodoneyt Oregon Motorcycle also helped me choose the Talaria. I'm 5' 11" and that's too large for the SurRon. Plus the Talaria has a longer stronger swing arm attached to a gear box that produces less noise...it's like a no brainer the Sting is and was the best choice. It's time to bring the SurRon updates or seriously reduce the prices.
As shown in the video: - Make sure to **NOT** follow the directions in the manual and re-fill the gearbox with an **INSUFFICIENT** amount of oil. Great for increased wear! - Make sure to spray chain care products so that all of the over-spray goes all over the brake rotor (contaminating it with grease) and drips all over the rear wheel bearings so it dissolves and washes out their grease. Again, great to drastically increase the rate of wear on these components!
From an email chain directly from Talaria UK… “Hi Matthew, You are correct, there is no need to lift the wheel. Rolling back and forth gently will ensure the oil is dispersed around the first gear to get the right fill level. Lifting the wheel as you describe will result in excess oil in the gearbox which will be ejected through the breather and could contaminate the rear wheel while riding. Regards, Colin Llexeter Ltd” Just want to throw this out to help with the confusion. According to Talaria Canada, Talaria UK, and Talaria Corporate you DO NOT lift the front tire. The owners manual will be updated next year to state the proper fill amount,”between 75 and 95ml”, says Talaria Canada and Talaria Corporate.
love your! content! I have the MX4, any plans for an upgrade on the weak headlight? GritShift is out of spec. for the MX4 headlight install. Blazer or Blinder with KILL switch for stealth mode. I understand you feature the MX3 so oil change was exact (new fill numbers from Talaria and mileage check in or changes) power wash cleaning brake pads etc parallels for both bikes
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Right now I’m pretty satisfied with my headlight. I want to get a helmet mounted light for dedicated night riding. Maybe I’ll make a video comparing a headlight upgrade vs a helmet light vs using them together. Idk 🤷♂️
"Galfer eBike Brake Pads Shimano Saint / XTR / XT M9120 / TRP Quadiem / Slate" is the name on Cycle Gear's website. Galfer's part number is BFD426G1652. Here is the link as well. www.cyclegear.com/parts/galfer-ebike-brake-pads-shimano-saint-xtr-xt-m9120-trp-quadiem-slate?Product&sku_id=10067760
It’s in the owners manual but the first oil change should be around the 300 mile mark. After that they say you can go around 3,000 miles in between oil changes. So it’ll be awhile before you’ll have to get back in there for sure
Mineral oil. Pick some up from your local bicycle shop. It’s my understanding that the bicycle specific stuff has a higher boiling point than regular mineral oil from a hardware store. Maybe twice a year or so depending on how much you ride and the style of your riding. You can also look at the sight glasses on the very front of the master cylinders. If it’s perfectly clear you’re still good. If it’s dark or especially black it needs replacing. Thanks for watching!
Are the gold pins after removing the break pads that important ive lost mine and I cant find a website to buy replacments and can you provide shopping links for the items youve used?
That’s a great question and the answer definitely changes depending on who you ask and what style riding you do so I’ll give some general rule of thumb intervals. Chain after every off-road ride or every 100 miles or so on pavement. Gear oil should be changed every 600 miles. Brake pads should be changed when they start wearing thin. They require a visual inspection. Check tire pressure every ride or at least weekly if you’re commuting. And that’s about it.
Also I don’t know if you are able to do this or not, but could you contact Talaria asking if the 2023 Talaria will have customisable gear ratios, this could be a feature in a phone app if they make one, (so that the bike will be good off the line and also so you can increase acceleration more when going at high speeds). I thought that the Sur Ron was great at this so I hope in the future the Talaria can do the same 👍
My chain has some red clay on it but I won’t have time to clean it today. Is it okay to leave mud for a day or two before cleaning or will that cause rust and wear
Different calipers are designed for different rotor thicknesses. If you’re getting constant rubbing throughout the wheel’s rotation you might have a rotor that is too thick for the caliper. If the rubbing is only happening once or twice per wheel rotation then the rotor is slightly bent. You can bend it back using a rotor adjustment tool, sold at most bicycle shops. If you haven’t replaced any brake parts except for the pads then just makes sure the caliper is centered on the rotor. You can do this by loosening the caliper so it moves freely left to right. Then while applying the brake tighten the caliper back down.
@@haveagoodoneyt Took the risk and unscrewed the release valve on the brake lever just a bit and some air came out and it loosened it up. Now the brake lever action is perfect and no rubbing.
Also , I don't know if it's any difference, but your rear brake disk rotating wrong direction. All talaria what I saw, has disks installed in rotational directions as your front one...
another reason why i like my surron more than the talario is maintenance is way easier, the whole point of going electric is so you dont have to do oil changes like a gasser, just not for me imo
neither does my surron, i had 4k miles on my stock belt but switched to warp 9s chain drive which is 10 times better, realistically a belt is going to snap or wear out at around 3-5k+ miles, and its not that hard to swap out when it does@@alchemyalligator4431
I wouldn't want talaria many flaws compared to sur-ron. there are a few: weight, power, gas unstable, violent, oil, transmission, nothing that interests me more problems, just. sur-ron much better, more skilful in the terrain, smaller, everywhere you can get into narrow areas of wooded areas with it...
Pretty normal for a first service to find some metal shavings. All the parts are getting used to each other for the first time. So if I find metal shavings in the future, then I’ll be concerned.
bike was leaning on the kick stand. Therefore the gear box fill plug is lower then if bike was level. No need to lift front. Just lean over a bit towards the right side.
@@armyca My way worked for 150ml so why not 120ml? I am the one who e-mailed factory and found they changed it to 120ml. Maybe the lift the front tire guys don't give the oil time to push out the air through the little vent tube? Worked on gear boxes my whole life.
I don’t understand the confusion with the hole changing the gear box oil. Correct me if I’m wrong but according the the manual 120-150ml of oil needs to be put into the gear box and they also have an add/full line on the dipstick. Make sure bike is flat ( not leaning ) and fill it to the appropriate amount. Haven’t heard any gear related thing having to fill 100% to the point it’s over flowing out of the please where you measure the amount of oil needed. If you lift the front up and fill it, once the bike is level you are now over filled….. if you have it to full you will have aeration in the oil = bad for any gears. If I’m wrong please let me know. Changing the oil more then what the manufacture says is better by the way. It’s cheap to do and dose not take long to do and plus it’s good to see what the oil looks like because the oil will tell you everything that’s going on inside the gearbox. But that’s just me👍🏼
@@Adub_detailing yes. But if you leave bike flat, 120ml wouldn't fit. That's the issue. Measure 120 ml and try to filled gear box without lifting front... No gonna work.
First off you should start by riding the bike around to heat up the oil inside the motor. Then drain it while it’s still hot. (You’ve never done an oil change yourself, on anything in your life, have you? Then you’re supposed to throughly clean the drain plug and clean inside the drain hole (the threads) before reinstalling the drain plug. Did you even wipe all those metal shavings off the plug??? And wtf was you doing using that stupid little bottle?! (like cutting it was gonna make it bigger) you would have had a better shot draining it into that “cheap” 5 gallon bucket 😂😂😂 and I hope you brush your teeth better than you did that chain. You should move the tire 6”-8” then scrub tf out of it( up and down, back and forth, in and out) vigorously. Then move the tire another 6-8” and repeat. And you want to COMPLETELY let the chain dry before apply any chain lube!!!! 🤦🤦🤦 I wait AT LEAST 24 hours before lubing the chain and lastly never touch the brake pads or rotors with your hands!!! (Because the natural oils in your hands get on the brakes and will squeal so horribly) and imagine you just changed the oil , mind you, with no latex gloves on, and got more on the ground than you did in the Snapple bottle😂😂😂 I recommend wearing latex gloves to clean the chain, do the oil change, and replacing the brake.( very good maintenance practice to prevent cross contamination) You got an “A” for effort though, nice initiative, this video made my day😂😂😂👍👍👍
And the oil drain nut should be changed with every new one. unnecessary other worries - problems. sur-ron practically maintenance-free comfort and performance unrecognizably the same
Good video. I have a few suggestions:
- Before you start with all the chemicals, grab the chain with a rag and spin the wheel to remove as much gunk as possible.
- An O-ring chain doesn't need to be sparkly clean. The goal is just to get most of the junk off not make it look brand new.
- Cut a piece of cardboard about 1' x 2' and hold it between the chain and wheel while you're working. It keeps the overspray and debris from contaminating the rotor, pads & tire.
- Talaria MX4 pad bolts don't have a clip like yours, it's only a bolt. Use Loc-Tite on the threads (sparingly!) to keep it in place.
- When torquing down the pad retaining bolt, use only the short end of the allen key for leverage. This makes it less likely to strip because you can't apply as much force.
- When reinstalling pads, insert the bolt through the pads and spring to make it easier to install. This keeps everything in place as you insert the pads around the rotor.
- Use resin pads if you have brake squeal. They also have better brake feel "modulation" but they fade more in wet conditions. I run resin up front and metal in back.
Love it dude! Great help for everyone. And thanks for letting people know about that caliper difference between the MX3 and MX4
WARNING to whoever is cleaning their chain; DO NOT use the throttle to move the wheel instead of by hand I was doing that and my finger got sucked into the chain sprocket and I almost got my finger chopped off!! I got lucky and only the top part of my finger was cut off thankfully my whole finger wasn’t removed and only the skin was cut. WARNING learn from my mistake be safe and turn your wheel with your other hand
⬆️ SO IMPORTANT! ⬆️
Almost happened to me, the brush I was using caught the chan for a second and almost pulled my fingers right into the sprocket, luckily my chan wasn't tight so it didn't do any damage to my bike.
nice vid dude. when I did my first oil change, I had my Talaria leveled on the ground, not resting on its kickstand. drained it and filled it just like that. it had gray goopie hair conditioner look and consistency when dirty oil came out like 50-60ml. no metal shavings that i could see. the debate about lifting the front tire to get the maximum 120ml is an overreaction, from my opinion. i filled it with a syringe kit from amazon until the dipstick check was sufficient and the oil did not overflow when placing the cap back on. I ride full throttle on sport mode daily 80-90% of the time and the gearbox is functioning very well with just the method I used watching the few early Talaria riders on YT like @Electric is better and @Oregon Motorcycle.
Thanks man! I couldn’t agree more about the oil change controversy. GritShift and I contacted Talaria to put it to rest and they confirmed you don’t lift the front wheel because then the excess will leave through the vent tube, onto the tire. They also said the manual has a typo that’ll be fixed in 2023 models. It’ll say only 75-95ml to refill.
I’m so thrilled with how the gear box performs though. It’s snappy, worry free, and very quiet. I also owe big thanks to Oregon Motorcycle for his early videos. They definitely swayed me to buying the Talaria. And I wouldn’t change a thing.
@@haveagoodoneyt
Oregon Motorcycle also helped me choose the Talaria. I'm 5' 11" and that's too large for the SurRon. Plus the Talaria has a longer stronger swing arm attached to a gear box that produces less noise...it's like a no brainer the Sting is and was the best choice.
It's time to bring the SurRon updates or seriously reduce the prices.
@@shockadellick couldn’t agree more 🤙🏻
How many km should u change the oil?
As shown in the video:
- Make sure to **NOT** follow the directions in the manual and re-fill the gearbox with an **INSUFFICIENT** amount of oil. Great for increased wear!
- Make sure to spray chain care products so that all of the over-spray goes all over the brake rotor (contaminating it with grease) and drips all over the rear wheel bearings so it dissolves and washes out their grease. Again, great to drastically increase the rate of wear on these components!
From an email chain directly from Talaria UK…
“Hi Matthew,
You are correct, there is no need to lift the wheel. Rolling back and forth gently will ensure the oil is dispersed around the first gear to get the right fill level. Lifting the wheel as you describe will result in excess oil in the gearbox which will be ejected through the breather and could contaminate the rear wheel while riding.
Regards,
Colin
Llexeter Ltd”
Just want to throw this out to help with the confusion. According to Talaria Canada, Talaria UK, and Talaria Corporate you DO NOT lift the front tire. The owners manual will be updated next year to state the proper fill amount,”between 75 and 95ml”, says Talaria Canada and Talaria Corporate.
What are you yapping about
love your! content! I have the MX4, any plans for an upgrade on the weak headlight?
GritShift is out of spec. for the MX4 headlight install. Blazer or Blinder with KILL switch for
stealth mode. I understand you feature the MX3 so oil change was exact (new fill numbers from Talaria and mileage
check in or changes) power wash cleaning brake pads etc parallels for both bikes
cleaning and lubing my chain and revisiting this! Excellent contemt
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Right now I’m pretty satisfied with my headlight. I want to get a helmet mounted light for dedicated night riding. Maybe I’ll make a video comparing a headlight upgrade vs a helmet light vs using them together. Idk 🤷♂️
Thank you so much. I’m glad I could help!
Thanks for video! Is the cooling off part mandatory? I dont have a pool but can turn on sprinklers!
No problem! I think I remember reading that in the owners manual somewhere. I think the sprinklers are a great solution 😂
What is the brake pads I need to order? Just want to make sure I order the ones you got.. Thanks!!!
"Galfer eBike Brake Pads Shimano Saint / XTR / XT M9120 / TRP Quadiem / Slate" is the name on Cycle Gear's website. Galfer's part number is BFD426G1652. Here is the link as well.
www.cyclegear.com/parts/galfer-ebike-brake-pads-shimano-saint-xtr-xt-m9120-trp-quadiem-slate?Product&sku_id=10067760
Awesome!! Just got mines Monday.. how do i know when to change the oil??
It’s in the owners manual but the first oil change should be around the 300 mile mark. After that they say you can go around 3,000 miles in between oil changes. So it’ll be awhile before you’ll have to get back in there for sure
How did those brake pads perform? Stock pads are junk imo. Thanks
They performed well. I actually have a separate video about their performance. ruclips.net/video/g4o3QiR31EQ/видео.html
I've looked everywhere...what's the recommended brake fluid and how often should it be replaced?
Mineral oil. Pick some up from your local bicycle shop. It’s my understanding that the bicycle specific stuff has a higher boiling point than regular mineral oil from a hardware store.
Maybe twice a year or so depending on how much you ride and the style of your riding. You can also look at the sight glasses on the very front of the master cylinders. If it’s perfectly clear you’re still good. If it’s dark or especially black it needs replacing. Thanks for watching!
Are the gold pins after removing the break pads that important ive lost mine and I cant find a website to buy replacments and can you provide shopping links for the items youve used?
Those little clips are important. They are a mechanical fail safe just in case the pin unscrews from the vibration of riding
Buddy,i ordered the new Talaria R,on what mileage the first oil change must be done?and then after what period to change it again?Thanks in advance!
That’s a great question. I’ll have to look at the owners manual to remind myself. Congrats on the bike!
gear oil should be changed every 300 miles.............and first one done after about 50 miles.........
That’s the old recommendation from the original owner’s manual. The new, corrected manual from Talaria has much longer service intervals.
How often should you maintain the bike though? (Brake pads, chain so on.)
That’s a great question and the answer definitely changes depending on who you ask and what style riding you do so I’ll give some general rule of thumb intervals.
Chain after every off-road ride or every 100 miles or so on pavement.
Gear oil should be changed every 600 miles.
Brake pads should be changed when they start wearing thin. They require a visual inspection.
Check tire pressure every ride or at least weekly if you’re commuting.
And that’s about it.
Ok
thank you 👍
Also I don’t know if you are able to do this or not, but could you contact Talaria asking if the 2023 Talaria will have customisable gear ratios, this could be a feature in a phone app if they make one, (so that the bike will be good off the line and also so you can increase acceleration more when going at high speeds). I thought that the Sur Ron was great at this so I hope in the future the Talaria can do the same 👍
My chain has some red clay on it but I won’t have time to clean it today. Is it okay to leave mud for a day or two before cleaning or will that cause rust and wear
Dang every 600 miles! I thought it was around 3000 lol
@@haveagoodoneyt
Question: Let's say with the thicker brake pads or with a thicker rotor how do you loosen the brakes a little so the brake ads dont rub.
Different calipers are designed for different rotor thicknesses. If you’re getting constant rubbing throughout the wheel’s rotation you might have a rotor that is too thick for the caliper. If the rubbing is only happening once or twice per wheel rotation then the rotor is slightly bent. You can bend it back using a rotor adjustment tool, sold at most bicycle shops.
If you haven’t replaced any brake parts except for the pads then just makes sure the caliper is centered on the rotor. You can do this by loosening the caliper so it moves freely left to right. Then while applying the brake tighten the caliper back down.
@@haveagoodoneyt Took the risk and unscrewed the release valve on the brake lever just a bit and some air came out and it loosened it up. Now the brake lever action is perfect and no rubbing.
Sweet! Glad it all worked out! 🤙🏻
Put plug back in refill it, quick ride, drain it again, now ya gearbox is free of all metal fines, refill it and ya good to go😊😊
Also , I don't know if it's any difference, but your rear brake disk rotating wrong direction. All talaria what I saw, has disks installed in rotational directions as your front one...
Thank you for the heads up, I would have never known. I’ll have to flip it around and see if I can feel a difference
thanks for bucket stand idea😀
For sure man!
Lmao wasn’t expecting a cool off
Wow! I thought it could only support 100 kilograms
Surron FTW
Hahaha let the rivalry begin 😈
Talaria Sting way better
another reason why i like my surron more than the talario is maintenance is way easier, the whole point of going electric is so you dont have to do oil changes like a gasser, just not for me imo
Fair enough
And I would rather have a talaria, way better than a sur ron
@@truek1ng7 personal preference tbh
yea but the talaria dose not have any belts to replace..........
neither does my surron, i had 4k miles on my stock belt but switched to warp 9s chain drive which is 10 times better, realistically a belt is going to snap or wear out at around 3-5k+ miles, and its not that hard to swap out when it does@@alchemyalligator4431
Not enough oil!!!! You gotta lift the front of the bike up to get oil to very back.
Debunked from Talaria directly. It was a typo in the owners manual. They fixed it in the new manuals
I put the entire original tube of "china joose " in@@haveagoodoneyt
I wouldn't want talaria many flaws compared to sur-ron. there are a few: weight, power, gas unstable, violent, oil, transmission, nothing that interests me more problems, just. sur-ron much better, more skilful in the terrain, smaller, everywhere you can get into narrow areas of wooded areas with it...
To each their own
Metal shavings 🤯👀
Pretty normal for a first service to find some metal shavings. All the parts are getting used to each other for the first time. So if I find metal shavings in the future, then I’ll be concerned.
!
bike was leaning on the kick stand. Therefore the gear box fill plug is lower then if bike was level. No need to lift front. Just lean over a bit towards the right side.
@@jsmetalcraft2001 unfortunately your are wrong. Drain all ail, measure 120ml and try to fill it your way... No gonna work.
@@armyca My way worked for 150ml so why not 120ml? I am the one who e-mailed factory and found they changed it to 120ml. Maybe the lift the front tire guys don't give the oil time to push out the air through the little vent tube? Worked on gear boxes my whole life.
I don’t understand the confusion with the hole changing the gear box oil. Correct me if I’m wrong but according the the manual 120-150ml of oil needs to be put into the gear box and they also have an add/full line on the dipstick. Make sure bike is flat
( not leaning ) and fill it to the appropriate amount. Haven’t heard any gear related thing having to fill 100% to the point it’s over flowing out of the please where you measure the amount of oil needed. If you lift the front up and fill it, once the bike is level you are now over filled….. if you have it to full you will have aeration in the oil = bad for any gears. If I’m wrong please let me know. Changing the oil more then what the manufacture says is better by the way. It’s cheap to do and dose not take long to do and plus it’s good to see what the oil looks like because the oil will tell you everything that’s going on inside the gearbox. But that’s just me👍🏼
@@Adub_detailing yes. But if you leave bike flat, 120ml wouldn't fit. That's the issue. Measure 120 ml and try to filled gear box without lifting front... No gonna work.
засрал все маслом, и себя и все вокруг..
Me too. I spilled the oil everywhere
First off you should start by riding the bike around to heat up the oil inside the motor. Then drain it while it’s still hot. (You’ve never done an oil change yourself, on anything in your life, have you? Then you’re supposed to throughly clean the drain plug and clean inside the drain hole (the threads) before reinstalling the drain plug. Did you even wipe all those metal shavings off the plug???
And wtf was you doing using that stupid little bottle?! (like cutting it was gonna make it bigger) you would have had a better shot draining it into that “cheap” 5 gallon bucket 😂😂😂 and I hope you brush your teeth better than you did that chain. You should move the tire 6”-8” then scrub tf out of it( up and down, back and forth, in and out) vigorously. Then move the tire another 6-8” and repeat. And you want to COMPLETELY let the chain dry before apply any chain lube!!!! 🤦🤦🤦 I wait AT LEAST 24 hours before lubing the chain
and lastly never touch the brake pads or rotors with your hands!!! (Because the natural oils in your hands get on the brakes and will squeal so horribly) and imagine you just changed the oil , mind you, with no latex gloves on, and got more on the ground than you did in the Snapple bottle😂😂😂 I recommend wearing latex gloves to clean the chain, do the oil change, and replacing the brake.( very good maintenance practice to prevent cross contamination)
You got an “A” for effort though, nice initiative, this video made my day😂😂😂👍👍👍
Thanks for the feed back 🤙🏻
An A for Hoses Arse! braBoxz
And the oil drain nut should be changed with every new one. unnecessary other worries - problems. sur-ron practically maintenance-free comfort and performance unrecognizably the same
To each their own
They're not maintenance-free. The belt system apparently gets janked up all the time.