+++on the F100. I shot one professionally back in the day. Arguably the pinnacle of Nikon film cameras. I also shot Olympus- hunt down an OM-4T and BUY IT. Remarkably intuitive and unique multi spot meter. Zuiko glass is quite good and a bargain. The Zuiko 35 F2 us a lovely user. Do NOT buy vintage zooms. Most were optical garbage.
@theodoreolson8529 There are a lot of electronics in there- but my guess is tha tthey are fairly rugged. You are getting solid metering and a decent motor drive. The only down side (and it is a major one) is that you will have an incurable urge to buy an F3hp. ...then just for the sake of romance, an F2A. I pray for your soul, my son.
This video was so helpful and refreshing. It is a treat to see someone who is actually knowledgeable and prepared. Such a change from the standard flash-but-no-substance crap buffeting us on social media. I trust this man with my camera decision and I would even trust him with my dogs.
This guy had questionable advice. He suggested electronic cameras which is terrible advice. Always seek out mechanical cameras NOT electronic cameras. Being battery dependent leaves you vulnerable because if your battery fails, your camera becomes a useless junk of metal/plastic.
Missed cameras worthy of consideration - Pentax MX - small cheap(ish) pro quality all manual - has DOF preview button, ME Super - adds aperture priority mode Contax 139 or RTS - best handling camera ever and often comes with zeiss glass the T* Planar is legendary.
I’d say the Minolta SRT lineup is a solid workhorse of a first SLR. The cameras are full metal, durable, and lenses are readily available for low prices, and any Pentax IQZoom for a first point and shoot as well!!
Bought a Minolta SRT 102 in 1975 and that series is still my favorite 35mm camera. Dependable, fully manual, easy to use, great meter, and lots of good lenses available at a low cost. Someone can buy a good SRT with a few issues for $30-$60 USA, get it CLA'd for $100 or maybe a little more, depending, and have a great camera for under $200. I've collected a number of SRT's and recommend the SRT 102 preferably version 1 with the mirror lockup, or any of the others. One might want to be careful with the earliest 101 model with the black sided shutter speed/ASA dial - the film transport was improved on later versions.
A kick-ass option that's kinda cheap rn is the Minolta Maxxum line, just don't get a D model, (7D, for example) those are digital. I have a Minolta Maxxum 5000i and it works great, if you want something similar to the Nikon at an even more affordable price, find a good deal on a Minolta Maxxum! (If you can find a nice deal on a Maxxum XTsi, BUY IT, it's probably the best of all the Minolta automatic cameras.) Edit: You should be ready to order obscure batteries like the others on this list, they usually take 2 3 volt batteries or a single 6 volt battery.
Good video. I would suggest the Nikon N90S. It's inexpensive ( I got mine for $ 79.00. It's an autofocus camera that will also work with F mount manual focus lenses. It has all the modes you would expect, including program. And it was a semi work body, built like a tank, and will last you years. Enjoy
The best advice on this clip is try out the camera that was in the loft. If you don't then work out why you want to shoot film rather than electronic? I have two different reasons. I collect cameras maby have 100, for a matter of principle I used to make them work and 90% of thye time succeeded, right back to an 1879 Kodak and Minox spy cameras. I don't do that any more, I'm working on underwater photo/video at the moment. Second big reason to go film is the following, really really learn the basic techniques of photography. For that you should go Fully Manual. Yes, Manual focus, manual aperture, manual speed. and flash synk That's what I used for 40 years. AND I used that shooting slide film. You can't easily post-process slide you get it right or wrong with one shot. What did I use? Nikon FM and Nikon FM2. The simplest and best manual SLR ever built Internal light-meter, centre weighted very precice with traffic light display. It is bulletproof, you can pour a pint of beer over it then take it out into an Arctic -15° night with a flat battery... it still takes the shot. Lenses? if you are looking for glass it gives you anything you want genuine Nikkor or infinite aftermarket. My favorites, 35mm Nikkor or 80-200 Nikkor.
Also ich kann die Praktica LLC, die Praktica PLC, PLC2 und PLC3 empfehlen. Von Bulb über eine Sekunde bis zu 1/1000 Sekunde. TTL-Belichtungsmessung bei Offenblende, wenn man die Pentacon, Prakticar oder Carl Zeiss Jena Objektive nimmt, auf denen electric mit drauf steht. TTL-Belichtungsmessung bei Arbeitsblende mit jedem anderen Objektiv mit M42 Schraubgewinde, also auch die Helios 44 Objektive usw. Das einzige, was man sonst noch beachten sollte sind die Batterien. Von der Größenabmessungen würden AA-Batterien zwar reinpassen, allerdings brauchen die Praktica statt 1,5 Volt das dreifache, also 4,5 Volt. Da die damaligen Quecksilberbatterien aber mittlerweile nicht mehr erlaubt und soweit ich weiß auch nicht mehr hergestellt werden, gibt es die Möglichkeit sich günstig einen Adapter zu holen. Den findet man auch recht günstig, wenn man auf den großen Verkaufsplattformen Praktica Batterie Adapter eingibt. Diese werden mit einem im Angebot enthaltenen 10er Pack LR44 Knopfzellenbatterien geliefert, von denen man drei für den Adapter braucht. Funktioniert einwandfrei. Für diejenigen die es schon etwas professioneller haben wollen, beispielsweise auch mit wechselbaren Suchern, wie bei der Nikon F2, der Nikon F3 usw., für die wären die Praktica VLC, VLC2 oder VLC3 eine gute und preisgünstige Alternative. Gruß aus Deutschland
my problem is the camera I found in my grandpa's attic doesn't seem very beginner-friendly, especially so because I don't have a manual and the manuals I find online (along with pictures) makes me think I got some franken-agfa from the early 50s
I've had a couple of Olympus OM-1 bodies that I bought used, which developed fungus in their viewfinders, sometime that's never happened with any of my many other cameras, including a couple of fifty year-old Pentax Spotmatics.
I have two one I got around 1982 has never been used and one my brother gave me with a bunch of lenes from the mid 70'S, Have no problems with either one.
I must confess I didn't listen what you was saying at all.. all I heard was that smooth vibe on the background.. that made my day.. so cool and calming.. what tune is it?
The Canon AE1 is a camera to AVOID. 70s electronics was junk. In fact, only get mechanical cameras, not the battery dependent cameras this guy is suggesting.
I was told something similar. Said the reason why was because the electronic components were just awful and if they damage now, it’s basically un-fixable
You can actually fix the electronics pretty easily they're well documented and if you're comfortable with a soldering iron easy to fix, key word there comfortable with a soldering iron which beginners are probably not. I'd also suggest fully mechanical or one that only uses it for the light meter.
@@lucaslucas2933had one passed down to me and nothing is wrong with it. Still shoots great. Just depends on how it’s kept. But I think this applies to all vintage items.
I had several Canons in the 70/80s, and they always worked fine. Nowadays, you'd have to be careful buying an AE1 or A1, but not for the electronics. Shutter slap and seals are more likely to be a problem. Nikons were usually better mechanically, with bullet proof build quality. I still use an F2A and FA as backups to my digital kit. My D810 is superb, but for prints up to A1, nothing in it for quality with film kit. There's something about a classic Nikon. Like a Swiss watch.
+++on the F100. I shot one professionally back in the day. Arguably the pinnacle of Nikon film cameras. I also shot Olympus- hunt down an OM-4T and BUY IT. Remarkably intuitive and unique multi spot meter. Zuiko glass is quite good and a bargain. The Zuiko 35 F2 us a lovely user. Do NOT buy vintage zooms. Most were optical garbage.
@theodoreolson8529 There are a lot of electronics in there- but my guess is tha tthey are fairly rugged. You are getting solid metering and a decent motor drive. The only down side (and it is a major one) is that you will have an incurable urge to buy an F3hp. ...then just for the sake of romance, an F2A. I pray for your soul, my son.
This video was so helpful and refreshing. It is a treat to see someone who is actually knowledgeable and prepared. Such a change from the standard flash-but-no-substance crap buffeting us on social media. I trust this man with my camera decision and I would even trust him with my dogs.
This guy had questionable advice. He suggested electronic cameras which is terrible advice. Always seek out mechanical cameras NOT electronic cameras. Being battery dependent leaves you vulnerable because if your battery fails, your camera becomes a useless junk of metal/plastic.
Grabbed my fathers old exa 1c. Im starting out in the fhotography hobby and this video really helped. Great video
These are all so well produced. Great work and info.
Missed cameras worthy of consideration - Pentax MX - small cheap(ish) pro quality all manual - has DOF preview button, ME Super - adds aperture priority mode
Contax 139 or RTS - best handling camera ever and often comes with zeiss glass the T* Planar is legendary.
Such a simple, informative, and approachable video on intro film photography! 📸
So glad you enjoyed it!
I’d say the Minolta SRT lineup is a solid workhorse of a first SLR. The cameras are full metal, durable, and lenses are readily available for low prices, and any Pentax IQZoom for a first point and shoot as well!!
Thank you for the recommendations!
Bought a Minolta SRT 102 in 1975 and that series is still my favorite 35mm camera. Dependable, fully manual, easy to use, great meter, and lots of good lenses available at a low cost. Someone can buy a good SRT with a few issues for $30-$60 USA, get it CLA'd for $100 or maybe a little more, depending, and have a great camera for under $200. I've collected a number of SRT's and recommend the SRT 102 preferably version 1 with the mirror lockup, or any of the others. One might want to be careful with the earliest 101 model with the black sided shutter speed/ASA dial - the film transport was improved on later versions.
I currently have srt 202, xe, xd11 and the hi-matic 7s, and I use to have set 100, 101 and had also x700. Love Minolta @@36on22
A kick-ass option that's kinda cheap rn is the Minolta Maxxum line, just don't get a D model, (7D, for example) those are digital. I have a Minolta Maxxum 5000i and it works great, if you want something similar to the Nikon at an even more affordable price, find a good deal on a Minolta Maxxum! (If you can find a nice deal on a Maxxum XTsi, BUY IT, it's probably the best of all the Minolta automatic cameras.)
Edit: You should be ready to order obscure batteries like the others on this list, they usually take 2 3 volt batteries or a single 6 volt battery.
I love the Canon AE1. That was my first film camera and it was my favorite
Pentax Spotmatic and Minolta SRT 101.
Inexpensive and the quality is as good as the best available.
Good video. I would suggest the Nikon N90S. It's inexpensive ( I got mine for $ 79.00. It's an autofocus camera that will also work with F mount manual focus lenses. It has all the modes you would expect, including program. And it was a semi work body, built like a tank, and will last you years. Enjoy
The best advice on this clip is try out the camera that was in the loft. If you don't then work out why you want to shoot film rather than electronic? I have two different reasons. I collect cameras maby have 100, for a matter of principle I used to make them work and 90% of thye time succeeded, right back to an 1879 Kodak and Minox spy cameras. I don't do that any more, I'm working on underwater photo/video at the moment. Second big reason to go film is the following, really really learn the basic techniques of photography. For that you should go Fully Manual. Yes, Manual focus, manual aperture, manual speed. and flash synk That's what I used for 40 years. AND I used that shooting slide film. You can't easily post-process slide you get it right or wrong with one shot. What did I use? Nikon FM and Nikon FM2. The simplest and best manual SLR ever built Internal light-meter, centre weighted very precice with traffic light display. It is bulletproof, you can pour a pint of beer over it then take it out into an Arctic -15° night with a flat battery... it still takes the shot. Lenses? if you are looking for glass it gives you anything you want genuine Nikkor or infinite aftermarket. My favorites, 35mm Nikkor or 80-200 Nikkor.
My nana gave me my first 35mm film camera a few years back I still use it , Pentax ME super
Great information for beginners! I’d love to see a video with flash tips!
coming soon
off topic but where did you get the shirt you’re wearing in this video?
Also ich kann die Praktica LLC, die Praktica PLC, PLC2 und PLC3 empfehlen. Von Bulb über eine Sekunde bis zu 1/1000 Sekunde. TTL-Belichtungsmessung bei Offenblende, wenn man die Pentacon, Prakticar oder Carl Zeiss Jena Objektive nimmt, auf denen electric mit drauf steht. TTL-Belichtungsmessung bei Arbeitsblende mit jedem anderen Objektiv mit M42 Schraubgewinde, also auch die Helios 44 Objektive usw.
Das einzige, was man sonst noch beachten sollte sind die Batterien. Von der Größenabmessungen würden AA-Batterien zwar reinpassen, allerdings brauchen die Praktica statt 1,5 Volt das dreifache, also 4,5 Volt. Da die damaligen Quecksilberbatterien aber mittlerweile nicht mehr erlaubt und soweit ich weiß auch nicht mehr hergestellt werden, gibt es die Möglichkeit sich günstig einen Adapter zu holen. Den findet man auch recht günstig, wenn man auf den großen Verkaufsplattformen Praktica Batterie Adapter eingibt. Diese werden mit einem im Angebot enthaltenen 10er Pack LR44 Knopfzellenbatterien geliefert, von denen man drei für den Adapter braucht. Funktioniert einwandfrei.
Für diejenigen die es schon etwas professioneller haben wollen, beispielsweise auch mit wechselbaren Suchern, wie bei der Nikon F2, der Nikon F3 usw., für die wären die Praktica VLC, VLC2 oder VLC3 eine gute und preisgünstige Alternative.
Gruß aus Deutschland
FM 2 good hard working camera no batteries needed only for meter
my problem is the camera I found in my grandpa's attic doesn't seem very beginner-friendly, especially so because I don't have a manual and the manuals I find online (along with pictures) makes me think I got some franken-agfa from the early 50s
I've had a couple of Olympus OM-1 bodies that I bought used, which developed fungus in their viewfinders, sometime that's never happened with any of my many other cameras, including a couple of fifty year-old Pentax Spotmatics.
I have two one I got around 1982 has never been used and one my brother gave me with a bunch of lenes from the mid 70'S, Have no problems with either one.
You guys still do drum scanning? Going back to film too.
Nicely presented 😊📷🎞️
What about the Canon EOS 630? Mine is solid!
Amazing video
Nikon FG with an f/1.4 50mm
Minolta x700 or SRT?
Nikon em great beginner camera
I must confess I didn't listen what you was saying at all.. all I heard was that smooth vibe on the background.. that made my day.. so cool and calming.. what tune is it?
Nikon FM2
The Canon AE1 is a camera to AVOID. 70s electronics was junk. In fact, only get mechanical cameras, not the battery dependent cameras this guy is suggesting.
I was told something similar. Said the reason why was because the electronic components were just awful and if they damage now, it’s basically un-fixable
You can actually fix the electronics pretty easily they're well documented and if you're comfortable with a soldering iron easy to fix, key word there comfortable with a soldering iron which beginners are probably not. I'd also suggest fully mechanical or one that only uses it for the light meter.
@@lucaslucas2933had one passed down to me and nothing is wrong with it. Still shoots great. Just depends on how it’s kept. But I think this applies to all vintage items.
@@lolkthnxbai
what are some examples you would recommend that use a battery for just the light meter
I had several Canons in the 70/80s, and they always worked fine. Nowadays, you'd have to be careful buying an AE1 or A1, but not for the electronics. Shutter slap and seals are more likely to be a problem. Nikons were usually better mechanically, with bullet proof build quality. I still use an F2A and FA as backups to my digital kit. My D810 is superb, but for prints up to A1, nothing in it for quality with film kit. There's something about a classic Nikon. Like a Swiss watch.
Semi pro to pro body. Depending on who you ask.
I thought the Nikon f100 was the budget one, haha
Guy looks like George Harrison😊
Why is the lab going to close at 24th #theFINDlab
We have a lab training scheduled for that day.
@@thefindlab i called u guys earlier. Thanks
I close the lab once a month for lab training and team building. The 24th is our day for said activities.