Brilliant! Just completed my first 10 rods. I'm a woman with zero experience. Kit comes with 50 rods, a cutter, a drill bit and Stormdry mortar in a tube. I'm proud of myself. 😊
Roger I love your videos. I am watching 24/7. I just bought my bungalow and it is in a real mess with damp. I'm getting old and a bit fragile, little money, but hey ho I am going to have a go at this a bit at a time. You have encouraged me greatly to do this job. Much gratitude for all your help and skills. Bless you.
Thank you Roger, I have a huge issue with rising damp and I have been quoted over 10K to probably do what you recommended, I will give it a go, Many thanks for all your great videos.
Did this to my house just over a year ago now. Has stopped our kitchen wall crumbling from the bottom up on the inside. I agree with comments that there is often a "root cause" to also deal with. But I didn't fancy tearing my driveway up so if this sorts it for at least a few years until I can then sounds good to me! (I have no reason to believe it won't last much longer). Cheap and easy to do.
@@michaelbalfour3170 it was yes. We redid the driveway 6 months ago and now have a suitable drain channel. But this fix did hold for the 3 or so years it was in place to be fair.
@@NYUTU-MG wall is all good but then we also saved up to redo our driveway and we lowered the ground level and put in proper drainage below the DPM level. Drive slopes towards the house so this was the main factor. I'd definitely say these worked as a short to medium term cheap fix.
Most modern damp proofing chemicals work in theory and this is a very good demonstration of how some can be applied by any non qualified person to walls with no plaster finishes or floor and wall joint problems. I do feel that for balance Roger should clarify how he determined the wall was actually suffering only from rising damp as this is the main reason why so many applications and interventions go wrong because of misdiagnosis. I think Rogers assessment is probably right but he has years of experience. The take home is this: once you have accurately diagnosed rising damp it is relatively easy to resolve but the cost and assessment to know it can only be rising damp is a bigger issue. I agree that Dry zone is a great product in the right hands and is a good remedy if only rising damp on bare walls is confirmed by proper assessment.
would love to see a follow up on this . as a stonemason working with old buildings day in, day out , i highly suspect you've not cured this damp problem
There will be more on damp soon. This chemical is well proven to stop the passage of damp through the mortar course. In stone you have to find a mortar bed and because of the non uniform line it is a question of putting in a couple of lines.
Thank Gareth.. I am sure there are others out there who have had first hand knowledge. The denial of rising damp is illogical. If people believe that then there is no reason to install a DPC
There are lots of factors that can make a wall damp if that’s a Concreet floor with a Dpm laped up a wall with out a dpc the damp will rise up through the wall (rising damp) if it’s a lime floor it wouldn’t it’s not as simple as saying rising damp exists or doesn’t
Hi. Thanks for the video. A few questions. Does this work for brick wall only, i.e. can the same technique be applied to a breeze block or a cinder block? If yes, do you still need to drill at 120mm intervals - into the block itself and not the mortar joint as it may be? Can you fit these from the outside of the house? Also, if there's an old failing waterproofing membrane, should I drill above or below it? Cheers.
Used these after seeing this vid, three months on, the rods look just the same, the mortar in my wall is still reading 33% on my meter, ( and this is in the summer months ) which is the maximum it will go to. I think I have been conned, big time. Thank god I only did a 10 foot interior wall, as a test before doing the whole house.
If you are getting a high reading it is very likely condensation. You may not have even had rising damp. Our summer has been very humid and I have been seeing lots of condensation on the lower areas of wall.
Have you actually used Dryrods yourself and been able to judge their effectiveness over time? I often ask critics of Dryrods this question but they never answer.@@gowdsake7103
@@SkillBuilder oh one more thing, I think you would a good detective, or forensic scientist if that's what there called, anyway keep up the good work man.
We had a chemical damp proof course injected in a 102 year old house in 1992; when we removed the skirting board and plaster 25 years later it was obvious that the damp proof course was working well
Brilliantly explained and thank you for introducing me to the great product. I live in a very old house and the rising damp is only very slight in one corner of a room. I was going to get specialists in but not now. Many thanks Roger and please keep going with your great channel.
Yes, brilliant video, one quick question. I have an issue in my front room! What is the best thing to do, if you cant see the external bricks (ie Plastered wall). Many thanks
When i have tried to tidy it up with re plastering or patch work of Polyfilla etc, eventually it crumbles. Back about 15 years ago i did have the cavity wall chemical filling put in, i have replaced and resealed around the window on a few occasions over the years.
Thank you Soooo Much. There is no way I could afford to get my rising damp sorted by "professionals" I am certainly going to have a go at it myself. Your video is a dream..thank you.
What would you use on a solid stone wall that’s 2 foot thick. The house is over 120 years With cement render and modern materials internally. It’s solid stone construction with lime mortar, and a priorit poorly laid cement floor with no insulation. I think i know what I need to do but I don’t have the budget to remove all the cement based materials. Love watching your videos always informative.
I've got some tile grout silicone liquid sealer. Like water it should soak in all over the place and give some protection. Right? I'm skeptical that a cream will penetrate as well as a thinner liquid.
How does this work on cavity walls for inserting rods for spacing purposes. I don't suppose there is something simular like this that can fill up gabs in a brick wall that can be done from inside?
Looking for a house in Northern Spain. I feel like 3/4 of the houses have shown signs of rising damp. Glad to know it isn't necessarily something that should scare me away from certain houses in my search.
Rising damp seems to be a very common thing in Spain. They don't always incorporate damp proof courses and they build with Porotherm blocks which are porous clay
@@SkillBuilder I had no idea what I was looking at until I researched "can you fix wet walls" basically. That's when I read about rising damp and DPC. As you state it is incredibly common. Thankfully the house I have settled was refurbished in 2004. Not sure they included a DPC. It doesn't seem to show signs of rising damp, fingers crossed. Though I can at least find comfort now knowing it's treatment seems to have a good track record.
@@SkillBuilder no there's so many cases that prove this is a short term solution. Look at regs in holland where they build houses ontop of rivers and don't use damp proofing. Stick a couple air bricks in and its sorted
Many thanks for the great tip! I have a solid stone wall into a hillside and the wall gets extremely wet when it's been raining so I shall certainly try the Dryrod.
Is the 'damp' coming up the wall or through it? Ie how high does the outside ground have contact with your wall? I wouldn't start drilling into stone if I was you.
Thanks Roger. I'm looking at a house that is constructed out of modern bricks, which are not completely solid (i.e have hollow cavities. I guess these bricks are cheaper to make, of course). Would you know if this technique would work well on walls contructed with these types of bricks as well as the traditional solid bricks we all know? Cheers.
Firstly I would go around outside to see the possible reasons for the damp, & what could be done to alleviate the ingression, as I have done on a number of properties.
@Akshay Mhatre Sure. Check ground drainage all round, are there areas with standing water? Any blocked drains or soakaways? Has the damp proof course been bridged i.e. cemented or built over? Then I would dig a French drain all round, as necessary, dig a trench at least 15" deep Fill the lower half with shingle, the upper layer with gravel. Also, with a large fence post borer, bore a deep hole & see if you find the water table (water level in the ground). I have successfully bored a 3' deep hole, filled it with a perforated 4" plastic pipe; water drains into that & can evaporate in summer. If the water table is too high, you may have to construct an underground drain from that to take the water away from the house. If you are on a flood plain, well, move or buy a boat!
@@theondebray great advice, you obviously understand how damp gets into brickwork. I put a french drain around a small stone cottage in wales and the damp went away. Peter Ward is the man to watch on RUclips.
@@theondebray Hi I am not in a flood plain per se - but this year (after 17 years with no flooding) we had a freak 2 inches of rain in 1 hour! The garage got wet on one end and I wonder if this might help keep out standing water from the outside once a decade. Alternatively, sandbags are rather bulky option but cheap
A few years back I worked in a builders merchant. The number of 'builders' that came in and asked the lads behind the counter how to do things was amazing. The lads used to say ' no idea mate, you are the builder, I'll just sell you what you asked for' . Since then I do everything myself, even built my own extension. Just need and electrician and gas man. Gas man wired boiler live and electrician wired lights into immersion circuit. The vast majority of tradesmen in the UK are cowboys.
4 года назад
Make you right, I used certified Electrician and I knew more on testing as I am old deb and use to wire homes in good old days and get it certified by LEB, Now days the so call Engineyer would put his meter showing different colour lights which would tell what the fault was but would not know the workings of the wiring system but he would not know how to test with just a AVO meter as you need to know all types of Earthing points and resistance between earth and neutral and also test continuity test, I think this guy just buy their certificates.
I can see that. From my days working in car spares. Unbelievable really. But...you close down colleges that taught practical skills...and replace them with "Arts-Based" "Social Media" "Digital Tech" "Computer sciences" etc etc You cannot train people who have no natural skills, nor the required intelligence, (Not to be confused with common sense.) to be in these roles. Why is it everyone thinks THEY deserve a job that does not involve: 1) Getting your hands dirty. 2) Some physical effort. ? Sad, but true: we can't all be Brain Surgeons or Rocket Scientists. Aim high by all means...but be realistic. There will always be work for practical people. Why? Because computers & high tech cannot do the essential stuff that all humans need on a daily basis. Worldwide. Re-open the practical colleges that taught trades to people with good common sense....and who want to do an honest day's work for a decent rate of pay.
In my experience, if you have damp on a wall, the problem is almost never 'rising damp'. It's much better to spend some time finding the real cause of the problem and solve that rather than being lazy and going straight to barrier treatments.
In the most cases it is a rising damp, which occurs by capillary action through bricks n mortar. Moreover isn't more economical n easier to stop it with this damp barrier method rather than finding the cause of the problem which likely will cost more to repair?
@@robertsanders4074 take concern about ground water level raising in rainy season. foundation material easily absorbs the water which raises through the bricks wall. we should arrest the dampens in the foundation level as mr dave what he said.
Here is an interesting blog to balance out the argument. Rising damp is a myth, some say. Not many really think so; that would be stupid, but those who believe this nonsense seem to have the ear of the press and the ear of RIBA and RICS too. So instead of being drowned out by howls of derision from the those who really know about these things, they gain publicity and even a bit of notoriety too. Yet every day - yes every day, rising damp causes damage to our housing stock. It causes salting of brickwork, wet rot in floor joists bearing into affected walls, perishing plaster surfaces and even increases heat loss at the base of walls. Now then, you may disagree with me. Perhaps I’m just spouting an opinion too, like the ‘myth pushers’, but no, I state facts, facts proven time and again by me and importantly, by people who have really studied the phenomena scientifically. The internet is full of papers which detail various trials and careful studies done, in an effort to quantify the nature of the problem and analyse the effectiveness of treatments. They are being ignored. Who cares? Well we all should be worried, because when people read something in the papers they tend to believe it. If building preservation ‘experts’ generally agree on something and one or two of them suddenly start babbling an unsupported view, with no proper evidence, the papers like to publish it; conspiracy and corporate culpability sells so well. Unfortunately the readers get the information in an unbalanced way. They then become prey for all sorts of crackpot ways of dealing with their ‘mythical’ rising damp problems. As a result, I see people turning away from proven chemical damp-proof courses, just at the point when the technology of these systems has begun to deliver much better results. You see, chemical DPC’s have a bad press, because too many were installed improperly, by badly trained and sometimes quite iffy installers. Often no plastering was done, so the nitrate and chloride contaminated plaster just sat there; soaking up more humidity and the walls never dried out. Many DPC’s were installed for the wrong reasons; they can’t eliminate condensation or penetrating damp, or rising damp; if the cavity is blocked. This is not the fault of the material or proof that rising damp does not exist - it is the fault of the installer or the surveyor involved - or both. Now that we have better training and the advent of DryZone DPC injection cream, standards and success rates are far higher. This is good - but because of the bad and completely unjustified attacks on the whole premise that damp rises - customers are being bamboozled into trying unproven, unreliable and generally more expensive ‘cures’. So this is where the MMR scandal link is. The scandal was caused by poor and unproven opinion being disseminated as science fact. Before long, others jumped on the bandwagon and thousands of parents (many of the them middle class Sunday paper readers), decided that young Rupert and Felicity shouldn’t have the nasty jab. This directly caused the severe illness of many other children and eventually those who had promoted this were shown for what they were - the main doctor was struck off the medical register. In my opinion RIBA and RICS members who seem to support this current ‘myth’ nonsense should have a read of some proper evidence. As professionals we have a responsibility to give good advice to clients; advice based on facts; advice based on knowledge. Opinion is no substitute for fact; experience is no substitute for knowledge. Dry Rot.
Nah , I’m calling bullshit .... the only people who can’t see it and won’t have it are companies who push rising damp “cures” It’s a racket , the new thing is to remove plaster to masonry , line with a plastic membrane and plaster /dab over Ffs it’s a joke
There has been numerous scientific tests to show that rising damp is impossible however, using a chemical in the brickwork will usually correct the damp issues. My house was built in 1833, it has no damp course and the building and basement is dry. It is the poor construction method that causes dampness.
I know nothing about building, but the argument that rising damp is a myth does seem to be supported by good solid evidence. It would be nice to see the debate resolved one way or the other.
i live in an old house the front room has a single brick or block wall that separates us from next door,we seem to have damp travelling up the wall as paper coming off.Next door built a studded wall on his side i may do same but only hides the problem.have you any suggestions
Wow lots of negative comments! In my opinion it does not look like it's going to take that long to try this method and if it works like it seems to have for many people wheres the harm ? If your still left with damp try something else
If there are salts showing you will need to hack off that bit of plaster. You can buy a rennovating plaster to do the job from Safeguard Europe or Screwfix
When this popped up in my notifications, I had a number of thoughts 1. No Skill Builder noooooo 2. Peter Ward 3. Plastic paint 4. Ground levels 5. Condensation
Hi Roger. Why did you start so high internally. Surely the 150mm dictates above external solid ground level not internal. If the external is the same this needs to be lowered to 150mm below internal and the dpc inserted just above internal solid floor level. This is also the case indicated on safeguards site. Also any bridging external render would need to be altered.
Matty This is a wall we used as a demonstration and it was intended to show the rods and how they work. The ground on the other side was high and there is nothing we can do about it. Every single wall needs to be assessed on its merits. In this case the access is from one side and it is solid so placing a rod so low would mean it was less than 150mm above ground level. If it had been a cavity wall I would have tried to drill from both sides at different levels. I think sometimes you have to accept that the situation is less than ideal and in this case drilling and filling two courses may be the best solution. The guidelines from Safeguard cover a lot of variation. Back in the days of silicone fluid we used to drill and pump under pressure and a lot of the fluid finished up in the cavity. It was far less effective than these rods.
I have been very concearned for years about the rising damp issues in my old brick house. I will try method. Thank you Roger! John Bethel, Missouri USA
Love the channel 👍.. forget the negative comments. Peter ward ,? Seriously? Watch his " confused carpenter" video, maybe the worse advice I've ever heard. People commenting are not builders, remodelers or restoration companies.... There is always an expensive proper way to fix situations. Roger always gives solid advice based on his dozens of years of hard work. Keep up the good work...
But surely the brick below still remains damp? Damp rises to the course, and stops...where does the water go? Surely it will continue to linger in the lower bricks (which are the unsightly ones)?
Water doesn't rise upwards through brick or stone. Rising damp is extremely rare. So rare, that nice is us are every likely to even witness it. Stephen Boniface, former chairman of the construction arm of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS ), has told the institute’s 40,000 members that ‘true rising damp’ is a myth and chemically injected damp-proof courses (DPC) are ‘a complete waste of money’
@@GavinLawrence747 ..me too, Peter Ward is the most knowledgeable guy on the net concerning 'rising damp'. Check out his videos on RUclips...fascinating.
@@GavinLawrence747 . Yes, fully concur. I don't even have a problem with damp or am I involved in the building industry but I just happened to come across one of Peter's videos one day and was intrigued. I watched everyone of his videos in one big binge viewing...amazing. I do like Roger though. He gives good straight, honest advice. Can't really understand why he felt the need to get into this hokus pokus.
Thanks again Roger for more ''first class'' information.....I question though regarding the materials used for stopping the rising damp.....Can they be used on external brickwork ?
Roger, I’d be interested if you could do a video or podcast with your thoughts in relation to Peter Ward’s opinions. He’s not an idiot and to be honest I’d rather side with him than a damp proofing contractor, but I think we’d all like to hear your opinions in response as he makes a lot of good points.
Hi Luke I actually made a programme for BBC Watchdog around 18 years ago all about the misdiagnosis of damp and the mis selling of remedial treatments. I concur with a lot of what is said about looking for other courses but there are cases where a remedial damp proof course is exactly what is required. This house with no dpc is a case in point. Where is has been extended it has a dampproof course and the walls are not damp. I think that the problem we are looking at is really one of polarisation. People think that you have to side with one particular camp which is ridiculous. My view is a lot more balanced than that of Peter Ward or Geoff Howell. I understand the need to make controversial statements and to take a stance to get yourself recognised but the truth is often a lot more nuanced. In my teens I worked for a master bricklayer who told me that the worst thing that ever happened to the building industry was cement and we used a lot of lime mortar in the restoration of London's historic buildings so I know the arguments. I will tackle this subject in the very near future but, for now, I will say that the introduction of the damp proof course was a change for good and anyone who tries to suggest that it was a retrograde step and that a building without one is somehow better off is talking nonsense. Unfortunately there are many such people running around. You even get people who say "Look at Venice" they don't have damp proof courses. Anyone who has been to Venice and spent time looking at their buildings will see and smell damp. It is also no accident that some of the leading experts in remedial damp proofing are Dutch.
@@SkillBuilder most old building throughout the country are now suffering damp issues. Houses built in genuine lime mortar need to have a complete lime cycle. If they don't moisture builds up very rapidly. Buildings in Venice have been messed about with as much as ours. The skills your old teacher taught you are quickly vanishing. As is the understanding. I can assure you once you take away modern materials from a building the damp goes away. At a rate of an inch per month. I truly hope this practice stops very quickly and old buildings are returned to how they once were. Not for my bank ballance, but for home owners bank ballances.
@@stevenmurray6359 There is a degree of truth in what you say but make no mistake there was damp in old houses. Anyone who reads Pepy's and others of that era will know that houses were cold, damp, inhospitable places and the only respite to a lifetime of living in such conditions was strong drink , to which a great proportion of the population succumbed.
Yeah they didn't have glass in the windows and straw on the floor. Victorian houses had green shield wallpaper that was made arsenic we know all that. Draughty well maintained old houses last. We can now introduce draught through controllable electrical units. We can allow moisture control of building fabric through hot lime mixes and clay paint. We can control heat. We can lower external levels keep on top of maintenance the linseed oil paint is amazing. If you and others keep using cement and chemicals home owners will have to pay me lots of money to reverse it. You guys are excellent modern builders. I watch you and Rob all the time but unfortunately on this one you are very wrong. Not just you, there's that god awful man from core conservation going round selling all sorts of nonsense. Don't get the name that guy has.
Thanks Roger your video mentions a cream at first then you inserted rods so i presume its the rods ill use ,also you said to drill every perp joint and the vidoe appears to show you drilling shorter than that, the manufacturer suggests every 120mm 6 inch , so i am a bit confused any chance of a clarification please ,
Absolutely love this channel and Roger, but personally I wouldn't be using these types of products to deal with damp. Do we know what the cause of the damp exactly is in this case?
The damp is there because there is no damp course. In period houses with solid floor, evaporation relied on airflow. This wall looks painted but maybe limewash (which is ok). The paint will aid the rising of damp. Modern living tends to facilitate damp as people want to keep vents shut to keep the warm in. There’s two ways to prevent this damp: 1. Rip up the concrete floor about 2 feet below ground level on the inside and outside, install a wooden floor in its place with lots of ventilation underfloor to outside; this will allow the rising damp in the wall to evaporate before it gets to inside floor level or 2. Install a injection damp course like roger is doing here. So 10-15 grand or a 500 quid injection course..
@BinarySecond fine, let's do it. Edit: and I’ve commented on loads of his videos but he never replies. Guess he thinks I’m a damp wally? Or is it because I’ve picked plenty of holes in his arguments?
A question if I may..We have just purchased a detached brick built bungalow ( I have Parkinson's) it was built around the nineteen thirties it is brick built inner and outer with cavity (no cavity wall isolation) there is no damp measured in any wall but there is NO dampproof layer other than a whip of bitumen to act as a damp proof layer...Question you say you can do the job from one side to drill thro the cavity wall so how do you know if you will hit a perp on the other side and not a brick.....excellent info from you always.
Looks like a ground floor room, probably the outdoor ground level too high. I dug out about old three patios and footpaths out from around my house and got rid of 'rising damp'.
James yes, if the ground outside is higher than inside that’s the obvious thing to do. When you’ve got a party wall though, your hardly gonna dig up your neighbours lounge so an injection is a good solution if done correctly.
I've got a problem with damp on one of my outside wall ,I have removed the plaster render to get back to brick ,can I re render straight after I've installed the sticks or do I need to wait???
Thanks Roger. Would you not damp membrane above the rods aswell, just doing some in my home dont want to do the finish and find the moisture re appears. Would it be ok with just rods?
That looks so easy. Quick question, is this suitable for very old buildings (circa 1700) which are soft red brick with lime mortar and no damp proof course? I heard that Chemical DPC can cause damage to the brick and are not advisable. ????
But... number one priority MUST be to find the source of the damp and remove it. Below a certain moisture content there is no mould that can survive. The great majority of cases of decay and deterioration in old buildings are down to either neglect or bad alteration which has at some point facilitated water ingress. There is a massive industry around ‘rising damp’ and ‘wet rot’ but nothing works as well as identifying and removing the problem, reducing the moisture content and keeping it so. It’s as true for timber buildings as it is for brick built. Do check out literature by Brian Ridout or basically any RUclips video by Pete Ward. Sorry, this is not an attack on you. I really like your videos, especially the ones with that little chippy in... 😀
Nigel No problem at all and in the longer video we discuss all this and more. The fact is that this building has no damp proof course so that is an immediate and obvious reason for putting one in. The other thing that people overlook is that decay is the natural and default status of anything and everything.
Hi Roger, would this system work on a solid 12 inch mass concrete wall. The house was built in the early 1950s and the concrete was made with river gravel and not a whole pile of cement. It wouldn't be as solid as concrete we know today. Im just wondering because there is no brick/block joints to drill into would it still spread out horizontally across the wall???
Hi Roger I love your channel but this advice isn’t correct. Green algae stains are not from rising damp, and what happens to the wall below the damp proof course.... it will stay wet! So what is the point putting in a dpc? A more suitable solution would be to remove the modern paint to allow evaporation so the wall gets to dry down. All damp diagnosis and repairs should follow BRE DIGEST 245, and BS 6576 2005.... and this doesn’t.
Ross Charters your argument is a contradiction. You say the green algae is not from rising damp, but you also tell him to remove the paint to allow evaporation so the wall drys down. You’ve been watching to many Peter Ward video’s....
Black mould on walls-condensation Green and black mould-penetrating damp,leaks White salts on wall- new materials drying out process Tide mark only 3ft high, some efflorescence visible-rising damp. Key tip, black mould and rising damp NEVER together
You know absolutely nothing mate Stop talking nonsense. A DPC is mandatory for any house it stops rising damp Without it, water rises Jeez this guy is a complete idiot
@@SkillBuilder I think in modern buildings, the damp course is to prevent rising damp. I don't understand why the damp doesn't rise on bridges and up the walls of old buildings such as those in Venice, which are permanently submerged. I'm not having a go, I just don't get it.
@@isyt1 I think a lot countries use damp proof courses, they used to use slate. The problem with the UK is the age of a lot of properties. Old buildings were made to breath, thick walls and lime mortar. When some Wally comes along and uses plastic paint and Portland cement it really screws things up. Check out Peter Ward, really interesting.
Hi, this video is really helpful and I’m keen to try this method for stopping rising damp. Does it only work on lime mortar, or is it suitable for concrete mortar too? Thank you
Legally speaking you do need approval from your neighbour before drilling into a party wall as the wall is owned by both parties. There have been a few cases of legal disputes where one side has drilled, it has forced damp up the wall of the neighbouring property and they have ended up with a big problem. It is very important to understand the legal situation before drilling into a party wall. you can see the potential for porblems when the wall is being drilled a long way but not the whole way, there will still be a section not treated. Then what if neighbour does same, you end up with dozens of holes in the brickwork! It is obviously better to get it treated from both sides on a party wall.
I am sure that two neighbours with rising damp in a party wall will both want a solution. I love the idea of forcing damp up the wall by treating half of it. I wonder what the 'rising damp is a myth brigade' have to say about that.
Such a load of bollocks. 2 separate walls between neighbours so no permission needed if your living next door to Karen and Kevin. It would be decent and explain to the neighbour whats for happening next door.
@@SkillBuilder and if your magi-cream tampons worked then water getting in at the top of the wall will show higher than it did before because you’ve convinced yourself you created a dpc. As if…😴
@@luckyman8319 no, you do need permission. It’s called a party wall agreement. It’s a legal document that you (your surveyor) are required to serve acknowledging that you accept full responsibility for any damages caused to their property by any work carried out and that you will pay for any remedial work. The party wall is inspected by a surveyor before and after work has commenced and signs it off.
Like your videos Roger, I’ve learnt some useful tips from you, I’ve got a couple of questions regarding this video : If there was no dpc of any description already in place why didn’t the property have a damp problem in this location from when it was originally constructed, surely it wouldn’t take capillary action over a hundred years to get to this condition ? (Unless of course the other side is external and floor level has been raised causing a bridge of original dpc). Also, you drilled 2 courses of brick up from internal floor level and dpc injections work vertically along the wall, so what’s to stop damp rising/forming visibly on wall below your newly injected dpc ?. I may be missing something but don’t see how you wouldn’t have the same damp strip 150mm or so below your liquid dpc injection. And I agree, I think peter ward is wrong about capillary action too...
Exactly, totally agree with your point about damp below the new injection point. I suppose it is more damaging to a lime mortar than a cement mortar wall.
...can I ask a silly question. With a neigbor wall yes you cant go through. But what happens to your inner and outer wall ? Do you drill through and cut the rods to the full thickness of the wall including the cavity?
im trying to get rid of mold in a single brick construction / outbuilding that I want to turn into dry store room would this system be any good? one of the problems I think is soil upto the front on the building about 60cm deep and my house is below street level. im planning on getting rid of this soil which will help i'm sure but as I say its a single layer brick lean to constriction next to a council house .
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I do it the right way 😁👍
Can I do this from the outside and save on the plastering from the inside. Thankyou
Can you please list all the items needed
How would I use this on a fibro wall. It's like gyprock
Brilliant! Just completed my first 10 rods. I'm a woman with zero experience. Kit comes with 50 rods, a cutter, a drill bit and Stormdry mortar in a tube. I'm proud of myself. 😊
More fool you, wait until you have to get it done properly..
Well done 👏 👏
Well-done you if you want job doing wright do it yourself.
what is the kit called ?
its ok ive seen
Roger I love your videos. I am watching 24/7. I just bought my bungalow and it is in a real mess with damp. I'm getting old and a bit fragile, little money, but hey ho I am going to have a go at this a bit at a time. You have encouraged me greatly to do this job. Much gratitude for all your help and skills. Bless you.
Thank you Roger, I have a huge issue with rising damp and I have been quoted over 10K to probably do what you recommended, I will give it a go, Many thanks for all your great videos.
Did this to my house just over a year ago now. Has stopped our kitchen wall crumbling from the bottom up on the inside. I agree with comments that there is often a "root cause" to also deal with. But I didn't fancy tearing my driveway up so if this sorts it for at least a few years until I can then sounds good to me! (I have no reason to believe it won't last much longer). Cheap and easy to do.
Is the drive sending water towards the house?
@@michaelbalfour3170 it was yes. We redid the driveway 6 months ago and now have a suitable drain channel. But this fix did hold for the 3 or so years it was in place to be fair.
@@25johnlowehow is the wall holding up?
@@NYUTU-MG wall is all good but then we also saved up to redo our driveway and we lowered the ground level and put in proper drainage below the DPM level. Drive slopes towards the house so this was the main factor.
I'd definitely say these worked as a short to medium term cheap fix.
Rogers a top guy. Give great advice. He doesn't prattle on, gets straight to it.
I had this done about 10 years ago in Australia. Then salt retardant went into the render. Never had a problem again. Love your work Rog!
Was the brick scalloping?
Agreed use the salt retardant after for the sand cement render base
,
Was it double brick wall?
Mate , where did you buy it from in aus ? I can't find it
Most modern damp proofing chemicals work in theory and this is a very good demonstration of how some can be applied by any non qualified person to walls with no plaster finishes or floor and wall joint problems. I do feel that for balance Roger should clarify how he determined the wall was actually suffering only from rising damp as this is the main reason why so many applications and interventions go wrong because of misdiagnosis. I think Rogers assessment is probably right but he has years of experience. The take home is this: once you have accurately diagnosed rising damp it is relatively easy to resolve but the cost and assessment to know it can only be rising damp is a bigger issue. I agree that Dry zone is a great product in the right hands and is a good remedy if only rising damp on bare walls is confirmed by proper assessment.
Great video Roger. You make it possible for us novice DIY folk to get jobs done in the house without paying a fortune.
DIY kits are so easy to use I live in a stone cottage going from room to room house drying out!!
How long have you waited until decorating?
Did you remove all the cement and use lime mortar?
Yet another EXCELLENT video from Roger. Always an enjoyable informative experience. Keep up the great videos.
would love to see a follow up on this . as a stonemason working with old buildings day in, day out , i highly suspect you've not cured this damp problem
There will be more on damp soon. This chemical is well proven to stop the passage of damp through the mortar course. In stone you have to find a mortar bed and because of the non uniform line it is a question of putting in a couple of lines.
This is just stupid, figure 99% of the comments are bought.
my livingroom suffered from rising damp and i used these rods and it cured the problem they do work well
Thank Gareth..
I am sure there are others out there who have had first hand knowledge. The denial of rising damp is illogical. If people believe that then there is no reason to install a DPC
What are the rods called.
There are lots of factors that can make a wall damp if that’s a Concreet floor with a Dpm laped up a wall with out a dpc the damp will rise up through the wall (rising damp) if it’s a lime floor it wouldn’t it’s not as simple as saying rising damp exists or doesn’t
@@SkillBuilder ever seen a dpc in a church? You know, the big buildings still standing after 1000years.
Didn’t think so Einstein
ever seen a dpc in a church? You know, the big buildings still standing after 1000years.
Didn’t think so Einstein
Hi. Thanks for the video.
A few questions. Does this work for brick wall only, i.e. can the same technique be applied to a breeze block or a cinder block? If yes, do you still need to drill at 120mm intervals - into the block itself and not the mortar joint as it may be?
Can you fit these from the outside of the house?
Also, if there's an old failing waterproofing membrane, should I drill above or below it?
Cheers.
I was just about to ask the same question re cinder block.
Thanks for the great points about fixing damp & condensation! It's definitely something homeowners should pay more attention to!
Thank you so much looking forward to trying this for my garage
Thank you , I will try this and also got damp coming up from a suspened floor any ideas much appreciated.
Great job Roger, your a life saver mate. Top guy 🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰👌👌👌
Used these after seeing this vid, three months on, the rods look just the same, the mortar in my wall is still reading 33% on my meter, ( and this is in the summer months ) which is the maximum it will go to. I think I have been conned, big time. Thank god I only did a 10 foot interior wall, as a test before doing the whole house.
If you are getting a high reading it is very likely condensation. You may not have even had rising damp.
Our summer has been very humid and I have been seeing lots of condensation on the lower areas of wall.
I used a similar product on a house a few years ago and it worked a treat
It just moves the problem somewhere else
Have you actually used Dryrods yourself and been able to judge their effectiveness over time? I often ask critics of Dryrods this question but they never answer.@@gowdsake7103
Love your show, your very thorough, I was a trowel, not anymore, my body's knackered, thanks for all your tips, happy xmas
Thank you Courtney, have a good break.
@@SkillBuilder oh one more thing, I think you would a good detective, or forensic scientist if that's what there called, anyway keep up the good work man.
We had a chemical damp proof course injected in a 102 year old house in 1992; when we removed the skirting board and plaster 25 years later it was obvious that the damp proof course was working well
Which company or product was used please
@@MySweetPiano-uc6jx
The company was called Insite ; I think now known as Insite Southern which might mean that they exist elsewhere
Brilliantly explained and thank you for introducing me to the great product. I live in a very old house and the rising damp is only very slight in one corner of a room. I was going to get specialists in but not now. Many thanks Roger and please keep going with your great channel.
Nice to see the old Panasonic sds in action
Yes, brilliant video, one quick question. I have an issue in my front room! What is the best thing to do, if you cant see the external bricks (ie Plastered wall). Many thanks
What is the issue? It might not be rising damp.
@@SkillBuilder Hi, i have spots of damp below a front window.
When i have tried to tidy it up with re plastering or patch work of Polyfilla etc, eventually it crumbles. Back about 15 years ago i did have the cavity wall chemical filling put in, i have replaced and resealed around the window on a few occasions over the years.
thanks so much....i have rising damp and cant afford to pay the guys to fix it ....im going to try this...
you my friend are a blessing to mankind
It's been 2 years now, did the rods work and stop your damp problem?
Thank you Soooo Much. There is no way I could afford to get my rising damp sorted by "professionals" I am certainly going to have a go at it myself. Your video is a dream..thank you.
Make sure rising damp is the problem. Send us pictures at www.skill-builder.uk/send
That’s really good. I didn’t know this system existed. Thank you
Hi can this be done under the floorboards? I have rising damp issue on an internal wall which goes all the way down under the floorboards.
I've used Dryrod and it worked really well, I don't understand all these negative comments. Nice one Roger!
Some people love being negative. It's all they live for.
Nice one Roger you're life saver👍 God speed!..
Brilliant, thanks for making it so simple and clear.
Wow that was brilliant even I think I could do that! Came across your Channel by accident but I'm glad I did.
Loved the video
All I need now is a house with raising damp😊😁
Buy mine
What would you use on a solid stone wall that’s 2 foot thick. The house is over 120 years With cement render and modern materials internally. It’s solid stone construction with lime mortar, and a priorit poorly laid cement floor with no insulation. I think i know what I need to do but I don’t have the budget to remove all the cement based materials. Love watching your videos always informative.
Great instructions 👍👍👍. This is something new that I've never seen. Thanks skill builders.
I've got some tile grout silicone liquid sealer. Like water it should soak in all over the place and give some protection. Right? I'm skeptical that a cream will penetrate as well as a thinner liquid.
How does this work on cavity walls for inserting rods for spacing purposes. I don't suppose there is something simular like this that can fill up gabs in a brick wall that can be done from inside?
Looking for a house in Northern Spain. I feel like 3/4 of the houses have shown signs of rising damp. Glad to know it isn't necessarily something that should scare me away from certain houses in my search.
Rising damp seems to be a very common thing in Spain. They don't always incorporate damp proof courses and they build with Porotherm blocks which are porous clay
@@SkillBuilder I had no idea what I was looking at until I researched "can you fix wet walls" basically. That's when I read about rising damp and DPC. As you state it is incredibly common. Thankfully the house I have settled was refurbished in 2004. Not sure they included a DPC. It doesn't seem to show signs of rising damp, fingers crossed. Though I can at least find comfort now knowing it's treatment seems to have a good track record.
Brilliant thank you I am really interested in this because I have to do this in my house in Galway,thanks again
ruclips.net/user/skillbuilderchannelvideos
Look up Peter ward about damp.
@@laldan29 Are you joking
@@SkillBuilder no there's so many cases that prove this is a short term solution. Look at regs in holland where they build houses ontop of rivers and don't use damp proofing. Stick a couple air bricks in and its sorted
@@laldan29 it's the Netherlands. And this method is mostly used here! I must say, they use the old method quite often with the liquid version
Many thanks for the great tip! I have a solid stone wall into a hillside and the wall gets extremely wet when it's been raining so I shall certainly try the Dryrod.
Is the 'damp' coming up the wall or through it? Ie how high does the outside ground have contact with your wall? I wouldn't start drilling into stone if I was you.
Dig a trench about 15inches deep around the outside and put in a field drain, it will divert the water from the building.
Interesting. A terraced cottage I'm looking at is lower than next door so the only cure for damp on the party wall is tanking.. I think..
Thanks Roger. I'm looking at a house that is constructed out of modern bricks, which are not completely solid (i.e have hollow cavities. I guess these bricks are cheaper to make, of course). Would you know if this technique would work well on walls contructed with these types of bricks as well as the traditional solid bricks we all know? Cheers.
I just found this video on RUclips base on the reviews I’m going to buy some and use it in my vacation house in Africa.I’m African base in the state
I love how everyone in the comments loves Roger and are warning him.
Watched many of your videos and thank you for all the advice provided.
Glad to help
Firstly I would go around outside to see the possible reasons for the damp, & what could be done to alleviate the ingression, as I have done on a number of properties.
@Akshay Mhatre Sure. Check ground drainage all round, are there areas with standing water? Any blocked drains or soakaways? Has the damp proof course been bridged i.e. cemented or built over? Then I would dig a French drain all round, as necessary, dig a trench at least 15" deep Fill the lower half with shingle, the upper layer with gravel. Also, with a large fence post borer, bore a deep hole & see if you find the water table (water level in the ground). I have successfully bored a 3' deep hole, filled it with a perforated 4" plastic pipe; water drains into that & can evaporate in summer. If the water table is too high, you may have to construct an underground drain from that to take the water away from the house. If you are on a flood plain, well, move or buy a boat!
@@theondebray great advice, you obviously understand how damp gets into brickwork. I put a french drain around a small stone cottage in wales and the damp went away. Peter Ward is the man to watch on RUclips.
Completely the correct advice.
@@theondebray Hi I am not in a flood plain per se - but this year (after 17 years with no flooding) we had a freak 2 inches of rain in 1 hour! The garage got wet on one end and I wonder if this might help keep out standing water from the outside once a decade. Alternatively, sandbags are rather bulky option but cheap
@@denisemc607 Maybe drainage channels might help? I have put them in several places around my buildings with connections to the main drainage (legal).
Very clear, concise Video. Thanks for taking time to share. Put our minds at rest
Do a bit more research x
A few years back I worked in a builders merchant. The number of 'builders' that came in and asked the lads behind the counter how to do things was amazing. The lads used to say ' no idea mate, you are the builder, I'll just sell you what you asked for' . Since then I do everything myself, even built my own extension. Just need and electrician and gas man. Gas man wired boiler live and electrician wired lights into immersion circuit. The vast majority of tradesmen in the UK are cowboys.
Make you right, I used certified Electrician and I knew more on testing as I am old deb and use to wire homes in good old days and get it certified by LEB, Now days the so call Engineyer would put his meter showing different colour lights which would tell what the fault was but would not know the workings of the wiring system but he would not know how to test with just a AVO meter as you need to know all types of Earthing points and resistance between earth and neutral and also test continuity test, I think this guy just buy their certificates.
I can see that. From my days working in car spares. Unbelievable really.
But...you close down colleges that taught practical skills...and replace them with "Arts-Based" "Social Media" "Digital Tech" "Computer sciences" etc etc
You cannot train people who have no natural skills, nor the required intelligence, (Not to be confused with common sense.) to be in these roles.
Why is it everyone thinks THEY deserve a job that does not involve:
1) Getting your hands dirty. 2) Some physical effort. ?
Sad, but true: we can't all be Brain Surgeons or Rocket Scientists.
Aim high by all means...but be realistic.
There will always be work for practical people.
Why?
Because computers & high tech cannot do the essential stuff that all humans need on a daily basis. Worldwide.
Re-open the practical colleges that taught trades to people with good common sense....and who want to do an honest day's work for a decent rate of pay.
I can imagine it looks great 😆.
You missed the part where the vast majority of diy’ers think they’re a builder
would you recommend to drill it in internally, or do it from the outside?
Roger is a big boss in the game love all the skill builder vids 👌🏽🔥🔥🔥
Another Amazing educational n helpful video to help us all Excellent job mate thanks
In my experience, if you have damp on a wall, the problem is almost never 'rising damp'. It's much better to spend some time finding the real cause of the problem and solve that rather than being lazy and going straight to barrier treatments.
In the most cases it is a rising damp, which occurs by capillary action through bricks n mortar. Moreover isn't more economical n easier to stop it with this damp barrier method rather than finding the cause of the problem which likely will cost more to repair?
@@1ico007 No, it's always best to get to the cause of it and fix that
Dave is correct. Water is very heavy and will never go up. It's more likely rain or damp penetrating the walls from out side.
@@robertsanders4074 take concern about ground water level raising in rainy season. foundation material easily absorbs the water which raises through the bricks wall. we should arrest the dampens in the foundation level as mr dave what he said.
@@1ico007 you have zero practical experience…this is evident
I have a terrace house, at what height does tbis need to be injected, as i have solid oak wood nailed to the floor.
Here is an interesting blog to balance out the argument.
Rising damp is a myth, some say. Not many really think so; that would be stupid, but those who believe this nonsense seem to have the ear of the press and the ear of RIBA and RICS too.
So instead of being drowned out by howls of derision from the those who really know about these things, they gain publicity and even a bit of notoriety too.
Yet every day - yes every day, rising damp causes damage to our housing stock. It causes salting of brickwork, wet rot in floor joists bearing into affected walls, perishing plaster surfaces and even increases heat loss at the base of walls.
Now then, you may disagree with me. Perhaps I’m just spouting an opinion too, like the ‘myth pushers’, but no, I state facts, facts proven time and again by me and importantly, by people who have really studied the phenomena scientifically.
The internet is full of papers which detail various trials and careful studies done, in an effort to quantify the nature of the problem and analyse the effectiveness of treatments. They are being ignored.
Who cares? Well we all should be worried, because when people read something in the papers they tend to believe it. If building preservation ‘experts’ generally agree on something and one or two of them suddenly start babbling an unsupported view, with no proper evidence, the papers like to publish it; conspiracy and corporate culpability sells so well.
Unfortunately the readers get the information in an unbalanced way. They then become prey for all sorts of crackpot ways of dealing with their ‘mythical’ rising damp problems.
As a result, I see people turning away from proven chemical damp-proof courses, just at the point when the technology of these systems has begun to deliver much better results. You see, chemical DPC’s have a bad press, because too many were installed improperly, by badly trained and sometimes quite iffy installers. Often no plastering was done, so the nitrate and chloride contaminated plaster just sat there; soaking up more humidity and the walls never dried out. Many DPC’s were installed for the wrong reasons; they can’t eliminate condensation or penetrating damp, or rising damp; if the cavity is blocked. This is not the fault of the material or proof that rising damp does not exist - it is the fault of the installer or the surveyor involved - or both.
Now that we have better training and the advent of DryZone DPC injection cream, standards and success rates are far higher. This is good - but because of the bad and completely unjustified attacks on the whole premise that damp rises - customers are being bamboozled into trying unproven, unreliable and generally more expensive ‘cures’.
So this is where the MMR scandal link is. The scandal was caused by poor and unproven opinion being disseminated as science fact. Before long, others jumped on the bandwagon and thousands of parents (many of the them middle class Sunday paper readers), decided that young Rupert and Felicity shouldn’t have the nasty jab. This directly caused the severe illness of many other children and eventually those who had promoted this were shown for what they were - the main doctor was struck off the medical register.
In my opinion RIBA and RICS members who seem to support this current ‘myth’ nonsense should have a read of some proper evidence. As professionals we have a responsibility to give good advice to clients; advice based on facts; advice based on knowledge.
Opinion is no substitute for fact; experience is no substitute for knowledge.
Dry Rot.
As most of west Lancs is either wet sand or clay I say rising damp is a thing.
Is this evidence? ruclips.net/video/9E63vIgV9Oo/видео.html
Nah , I’m calling bullshit .... the only people who can’t see it and won’t have it are companies who push rising damp “cures”
It’s a racket , the new thing is to remove plaster to masonry , line with a plastic membrane and plaster /dab over
Ffs it’s a joke
There has been numerous scientific tests to show that rising damp is impossible however, using a chemical in the brickwork will usually correct the damp issues. My house was built in 1833, it has no damp course and the building and basement is dry. It is the poor construction method that causes dampness.
I know nothing about building, but the argument that rising damp is a myth does seem to be supported by good solid evidence. It would be nice to see the debate resolved one way or the other.
What is it’s a some wall, would u drill the same 150mm up then vertical across
Would this system work on at the solid walls of a victorian house circa 1880? Thank you
ruclips.net/video/Ui6IEhI86ew/видео.html&ab_channel=PeterWard
i live in an old house the front room has a single brick or block wall that separates us from next door,we seem to have damp travelling up the wall as paper coming off.Next door built a studded wall on his side i may do same but only hides the problem.have you any suggestions
Wow lots of negative comments! In my opinion it does not look like it's going to take that long to try this method and if it works like it seems to have for many people wheres the harm ? If your still left with damp try something else
Thanks for this great video. I’ve just bought an old property that has rising damp and I’ve been quoted 3.5k to do 3 walls.
If there are salts showing you will need to hack off that bit of plaster. You can buy a rennovating plaster to do the job from Safeguard Europe or Screwfix
When this popped up in my notifications, I had a number of thoughts
1. No Skill Builder noooooo
2. Peter Ward
3. Plastic paint
4. Ground levels
5. Condensation
Exactly, what is on the other side of that wall?
💯
Get the adze out and start hacking!!
Exactly my thoughts !
Peter Ward is exactly what sprung to my mind too! 🤣
Hi Roger, would you say this system is suitable with a wall that has dampness but has dot and dab dry lining?
Hi Roger. Why did you start so high internally. Surely the 150mm dictates above external solid ground level not internal. If the external is the same this needs to be lowered to 150mm below internal and the dpc inserted just above internal solid floor level. This is also the case indicated on safeguards site. Also any bridging external render would need to be altered.
Matty
This is a wall we used as a demonstration and it was intended to show the rods and how they work. The ground on the other side was high and there is nothing we can do about it.
Every single wall needs to be assessed on its merits. In this case the access is from one side and it is solid so placing a rod so low would mean it was less than 150mm above ground level. If it had been a cavity wall I would have tried to drill from both sides at different levels.
I think sometimes you have to accept that the situation is less than ideal and in this case drilling and filling two courses may be the best solution.
The guidelines from Safeguard cover a lot of variation. Back in the days of silicone fluid we used to drill and pump under pressure and a lot of the fluid finished up in the cavity. It was far less effective than these rods.
Ok buddy sorry. Didnt want someone just copying and not getting the outcome they wanted. Good content as usual mate.👍
The white sealant used to seal up the hole …..are there colours to match external bricks
The floor under that lifted tile looks damp. Not sure you've fixed this to be honest. Did you explore the possible causes for the damp?
Yes we did a longer video on the subject. It has no DPC. It is a good place to start and it can do no harm.
I have been very concearned for years about the rising damp issues in my old brick house. I will try method. Thank you Roger!
John
Bethel, Missouri USA
Love the channel 👍.. forget the negative comments. Peter ward ,? Seriously? Watch his " confused carpenter" video, maybe the worse advice I've ever heard. People commenting are not builders, remodelers or restoration companies.... There is always an expensive proper way to fix situations. Roger always gives solid advice based on his dozens of years of hard work. Keep up the good work...
Thanks Joe.
What was bad about the advice in "confused carpenter"? He suggested filling the gaps with ocum or lime mortar.
But surely the brick below still remains damp? Damp rises to the course, and stops...where does the water go? Surely it will continue to linger in the lower bricks (which are the unsightly ones)?
I've wondered this for thirty years. Anyone know answer?
Water doesn't rise upwards through brick or stone. Rising damp is extremely rare. So rare, that nice is us are every likely to even witness it.
Stephen Boniface, former chairman of the construction arm of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS ), has told the institute’s 40,000 members that ‘true rising damp’ is a myth and chemically injected damp-proof courses (DPC) are ‘a complete waste of money’
Mr skill builder do I need a damp course in a removable porch we have got a damp course in our house can you advise
Oh dear.... don’t let Peter ward see this....
lol that's what I thought
@@GavinLawrence747 ..me too, Peter Ward is the most knowledgeable guy on the net concerning 'rising damp'. Check out his videos on RUclips...fascinating.
@@doktoruzo Yes his website and youtube videos are fantastic and funny. "Mr Damp wally"
@@GavinLawrence747 . Yes, fully concur. I don't even have a problem with damp or am I involved in the building industry but I just happened to come across one of Peter's videos one day and was intrigued. I watched everyone of his videos in one big binge viewing...amazing. I do like Roger though. He gives good straight, honest advice. Can't really understand why he felt the need to get into this hokus pokus.
@@doktoruzo That's the same for me. What I took away from Pete's vids is that the building (esp olders buildings) must BREATHE!
Thanks again Roger for more ''first class'' information.....I question though regarding the materials used for stopping the rising damp.....Can they be used on external brickwork ?
Yes, absolutely Stormdry is the same stuff
Roger, I’d be interested if you could do a video or podcast with your thoughts in relation to Peter Ward’s opinions. He’s not an idiot and to be honest I’d rather side with him than a damp proofing contractor, but I think we’d all like to hear your opinions in response as he makes a lot of good points.
Hi Luke
I actually made a programme for BBC Watchdog around 18 years ago all about the misdiagnosis of damp and the mis selling of remedial treatments. I concur with a lot of what is said about looking for other courses but there are cases where a remedial damp proof course is exactly what is required. This house with no dpc is a case in point. Where is has been extended it has a dampproof course and the walls are not damp.
I think that the problem we are looking at is really one of polarisation. People think that you have to side with one particular camp which is ridiculous. My view is a lot more balanced than that of Peter Ward or Geoff Howell. I understand the need to make controversial statements and to take a stance to get yourself recognised but the truth is often a lot more nuanced.
In my teens I worked for a master bricklayer who told me that the worst thing that ever happened to the building industry was cement and we used a lot of lime mortar in the restoration of London's historic buildings so I know the arguments.
I will tackle this subject in the very near future but, for now, I will say that the introduction of the damp proof course was a change for good and anyone who tries to suggest that it was a retrograde step and that a building without one is somehow better off is talking nonsense. Unfortunately there are many such people running around. You even get people who say "Look at Venice" they don't have damp proof courses. Anyone who has been to Venice and spent time looking at their buildings will see and smell damp. It is also no accident that some of the leading experts in remedial damp proofing are Dutch.
@@SkillBuilder most old building throughout the country are now suffering damp issues. Houses built in genuine lime mortar need to have a complete lime cycle. If they don't moisture builds up very rapidly. Buildings in Venice have been messed about with as much as ours. The skills your old teacher taught you are quickly vanishing. As is the understanding. I can assure you once you take away modern materials from a building the damp goes away. At a rate of an inch per month. I truly hope this practice stops very quickly and old buildings are returned to how they once were. Not for my bank ballance, but for home owners bank ballances.
@@stevenmurray6359 There is a degree of truth in what you say but make no mistake there was damp in old houses. Anyone who reads Pepy's and others of that era will know that houses were cold, damp, inhospitable places and the only respite to a lifetime of living in such conditions was strong drink , to which a great proportion of the population succumbed.
Yeah they didn't have glass in the windows and straw on the floor. Victorian houses had green shield wallpaper that was made arsenic we know all that. Draughty well maintained old houses last. We can now introduce draught through controllable electrical units. We can allow moisture control of building fabric through hot lime mixes and clay paint. We can control heat. We can lower external levels keep on top of maintenance the linseed oil paint is amazing. If you and others keep using cement and chemicals home owners will have to pay me lots of money to reverse it. You guys are excellent modern builders. I watch you and Rob all the time but unfortunately on this one you are very wrong. Not just you, there's that god awful man from core conservation going round selling all sorts of nonsense. Don't get the name that guy has.
@@SkillBuilder "The only respite was strong drink..." Perhaps you should do a video on that, Roger.
Thanks Roger your video mentions a cream at first then you inserted rods so i presume its the rods ill use ,also you said to drill every perp joint and the vidoe appears to show you drilling shorter than that, the manufacturer suggests every 120mm 6 inch , so i am a bit confused any chance of a clarification please ,
Absolutely love this channel and Roger, but personally I wouldn't be using these types of products to deal with damp.
Do we know what the cause of the damp exactly is in this case?
The damp is there because there is no damp course. In period houses with solid floor, evaporation relied on airflow. This wall looks painted but maybe limewash (which is ok). The paint will aid the rising of damp. Modern living tends to facilitate damp as people want to keep vents shut to keep the warm in. There’s two ways to prevent this damp: 1. Rip up the concrete floor about 2 feet below ground level on the inside and outside, install a wooden floor in its place with lots of ventilation underfloor to outside; this will allow the rising damp in the wall to evaporate before it gets to inside floor level or 2. Install a injection damp course like roger is doing here. So 10-15 grand or a 500 quid injection course..
@@gdfggggg Have you been to this site personally?
McCready 747 No, but worked on and seen so many houses with damp issues I’ve lost count.
@@gdfggggg Peter ward would like a word with you
@BinarySecond fine, let's do it.
Edit: and I’ve commented on loads of his videos but he never replies. Guess he thinks I’m a damp wally? Or is it because I’ve picked plenty of holes in his arguments?
A question if I may..We have just purchased a detached brick built bungalow ( I have Parkinson's) it was built around the nineteen thirties it is brick built inner and outer with cavity (no cavity wall isolation) there is no damp measured in any wall but there is NO dampproof layer other than a whip of bitumen to act as a damp proof layer...Question you say you can do the job from one side to drill thro the cavity wall so how do you know if you will hit a perp on the other side and not a brick.....excellent info from you always.
Looks like a ground floor room, probably the outdoor ground level too high. I dug out about old three patios and footpaths out from around my house and got rid of 'rising damp'.
He said it's a party wall so there's not going to be any other source of damp here I don't think
James yes, if the ground outside is higher than inside that’s the obvious thing to do. When you’ve got a party wall though, your hardly gonna dig up your neighbours lounge so an injection is a good solution if done correctly.
If its a party wall, something else is going on, not rising damp!
@@aflaz171 Like what? Other than rising damp I can't really see what else it could be. Not an external wall rules out pretty much everything else.
@@peepiepo I don't think he said that wall was a party wall, he just mentioned party walls in general.
I've got a problem with damp on one of my outside wall ,I have removed the plaster render to get back to brick ,can I re render straight after I've installed the sticks or do I need to wait???
Love the stealth Panasonic sds 😁
Thanks Roger.
Would you not damp membrane above the rods aswell, just doing some in my home dont want to do the finish and find the moisture re appears.
Would it be ok with just rods?
The rods work but if there are salts in the wall they will draw moisture out of the air. A tile backer board dot and dabbed will help a lot.
That looks so easy. Quick question, is this suitable for very old buildings (circa 1700) which are soft red brick with lime mortar and no damp proof course? I heard that Chemical DPC can cause damage to the brick and are not advisable. ????
No. Search RUclips for Peter Ward. Also look at English Heritage website.
Will this work with stone houses work and what mortors will it work with?
Skill builder is usually spot on, not in this case but usually
I have done this ro my house 15 years ago. Its now failed. Can i do the same treatment again ?
But... number one priority MUST be to find the source of the damp and remove it. Below a certain moisture content there is no mould that can survive. The great majority of cases of decay and deterioration in old buildings are down to either neglect or bad alteration which has at some point facilitated water ingress. There is a massive industry around ‘rising damp’ and ‘wet rot’ but nothing works as well as identifying and removing the problem, reducing the moisture content and keeping it so. It’s as true for timber buildings as it is for brick built. Do check out literature by Brian Ridout or basically any RUclips video by Pete Ward.
Sorry, this is not an attack on you. I really like your videos, especially the ones with that little chippy in... 😀
Nigel
No problem at all and in the longer video we discuss all this and more. The fact is that this building has no damp proof course so that is an immediate and obvious reason for putting one in.
The other thing that people overlook is that decay is the natural and default status of anything and everything.
If you've not got a damp course, it will be the ground, that's the number one cause of damp bricks below 30cm.
Hi Roger, would this system work on a solid 12 inch mass concrete wall. The house was built in the early 1950s and the concrete was made with river gravel and not a whole pile of cement. It wouldn't be as solid as concrete we know today. Im just wondering because there is no brick/block joints to drill into would it still spread out horizontally across the wall???
It is best in mortar, but understanding that it is filling capillary pathways, I don't see it would do any harm to try it.
@@SkillBuilder thanks for you quick reply 👍
Hi Roger I love your channel but this advice isn’t correct. Green algae stains are not from rising damp, and what happens to the wall below the damp proof course.... it will stay wet! So what is the point putting in a dpc? A more suitable solution would be to remove the modern paint to allow evaporation so the wall gets to dry down. All damp diagnosis and repairs should follow BRE DIGEST 245, and BS 6576 2005.... and this doesn’t.
Ross Charters your argument is a contradiction. You say the green algae is not from rising damp, but you also tell him to remove the paint to allow evaporation so the wall drys down. You’ve been watching to many Peter Ward video’s....
Slashley gibbins yes because the wall is wet/green above his head..... not rising damp, but penetrating damp.
Slashley gibbins n
Black mould on walls-condensation
Green and black mould-penetrating damp,leaks
White salts on wall- new materials drying out process
Tide mark only 3ft high, some efflorescence visible-rising damp.
Key tip, black mould and rising damp NEVER together
You know absolutely nothing mate
Stop talking nonsense. A DPC is mandatory for any house it stops rising damp
Without it, water rises
Jeez this guy is a complete idiot
Would it still work if i can't drill into the mortar bed.
I need to drill the outside wall, which has render. Obviously I can't see the mortar.
it works best in the mortar, just find the line.
Roger, thanks soooooo much for your awesome video! You rock!!!
Can you use this for damp around a pvc window?
It's high up and difficult to get to the outside of.
Use expanding foam
Why is it that brickwork on canal bridges and buildings in Venice, don't show symptoms of rising damp?
It does. Why do you think there is a damp proof course in all modern buildings?
@@SkillBuilder I think in modern buildings, the damp course is to prevent rising damp. I don't understand why the damp doesn't rise on bridges and up the walls of old buildings such as those in Venice, which are permanently submerged. I'm not having a go, I just don't get it.
@@vic6820 you are right, no such thing as rising damp.
This channel has really gone down hill.
Isn’t Britain the only country in the world that lays damp proof courses?
@@isyt1 I think a lot countries use damp proof courses, they used to use slate.
The problem with the UK is the age of a lot of properties.
Old buildings were made to breath, thick walls and lime mortar.
When some Wally comes along and uses plastic paint and Portland cement it really screws things up.
Check out Peter Ward, really interesting.
Does this work on solid mass concrete houses? There is no brick work or mortar in our house.
Hi, this video is really helpful and I’m keen to try this method for stopping rising damp. Does it only work on lime mortar, or is it suitable for concrete mortar too? Thank you
Lizzy did you not go to the link at the top under show more? In under 30 secs i read your answer.
What about for mold and damp near the top of a wall? Can this be used there or only at the bottom?
I live in a ground floor flat. Can the Dryrod be inserted via the exterior wall, from the outside wall?
Great video thanks for sharing Roger, over and out!
Legally speaking you do need approval from your neighbour before drilling into a party wall as the wall is owned by both parties. There have been a few cases of legal disputes where one side has drilled, it has forced damp up the wall of the neighbouring property and they have ended up with a big problem. It is very important to understand the legal situation before drilling into a party wall. you can see the potential for porblems when the wall is being drilled a long way but not the whole way, there will still be a section not treated. Then what if neighbour does same, you end up with dozens of holes in the brickwork! It is obviously better to get it treated from both sides on a party wall.
I am sure that two neighbours with rising damp in a party wall will both want a solution. I love the idea of forcing damp up the wall by treating half of it. I wonder what the 'rising damp is a myth brigade' have to say about that.
Such a load of bollocks. 2 separate walls between neighbours so no permission needed if your living next door to Karen and Kevin. It would be decent and explain to the neighbour whats for happening next door.
@@SkillBuilder and if your magi-cream tampons worked then water getting in at the top of the wall will show higher than it did before because you’ve convinced yourself you created a dpc. As if…😴
@@luckyman8319 no, you do need permission. It’s called a party wall agreement. It’s a legal document that you (your surveyor) are required to serve acknowledging that you accept full responsibility for any damages caused to their property by any work carried out and that you will pay for any remedial work. The party wall is inspected by a surveyor before and after work has commenced and signs it off.
Hi there i have a basement but its only half the size of my house there is a wall blockin the basement so how would i go about doing this please
Like your videos Roger, I’ve learnt some useful tips from you, I’ve got a couple of questions regarding this video :
If there was no dpc of any description already in place why didn’t the property have a damp problem in this location from when it was originally constructed, surely it wouldn’t take capillary action over a hundred years to get to this condition ? (Unless of course the other side is external and floor level has been raised causing a bridge of original dpc).
Also, you drilled 2 courses of brick up from internal floor level and dpc injections work vertically along the wall, so what’s to stop damp rising/forming visibly on wall below your newly injected dpc ?.
I may be missing something but don’t see how you wouldn’t have the same damp strip 150mm or so below your liquid dpc injection.
And I agree, I think peter ward is wrong about capillary action too...
Exactly, totally agree with your point about damp below the new injection point. I suppose it is more damaging to a lime mortar than a cement mortar wall.
...can I ask a silly question. With a neigbor wall yes you cant go through. But what happens to your inner and outer wall ? Do you drill through and cut the rods to the full thickness of the wall including the cavity?
I think Peter Ward's channel will get a bump in traffic over the next few days 🤣
That is for sure.
@@SkillBuilder what's your thoughts on peters advise?
@@MaintenanceENG No reply from @Skill Builder... Kind of says it all
@@gleff3345 One has to be right and one wrong!
Peter Ward is misguided.
im trying to get rid of mold in a single brick construction / outbuilding that I want to turn into dry store room would this system be any good? one of the problems I think is soil upto the front on the building about 60cm deep and my house is below street level. im planning on getting rid of this soil which will help i'm sure but as I say its a single layer brick lean to constriction next to a council house .