Im so glad Roger talks about managing expectations. In the past ive explained situations to customers but the belief is that im paying to have this sorted, it must be sorted. Sometimes all you can do is everything reasonably possible to stop an issue and it IS normally water ingress but because of the way a house has been built or because of ground conditions or even the lifestyle of the customer, sometimes you can only improve the situation. I went to an asian family once and they had mould in the kitchen, the first time i went the house was empty bar one customer and everything was normal, i couldnt diagnose a leak of any kind, they had trickle vents and also a fan wired to the lights so i didnt suspect damp. I said theres no issue here and asked if they create much humidity etc... no no just live normal. When i was called back weeks later they said the ceiling and back wall are wet, damp to the touch. I went round after work and the wife was cooking. 2 MASSIVE pots on the stove, full of rice and water and a huge pot with curry in it. The steam was billowing from these pots and i told them exactly what the problem was. They wouldnt believe me, they said we use the extractor. Which was a carbon extractor, so not vented outside, likely with filters that had never been changed and i told them, you would have to make this an outdoor kitchen to get rid of that much steam but i was still told i was wrong. The fzct that the fridge 5 feet away had moisture on the door didnt convince them. It was like a steam engine room in that kitchen and they said she cooks big batches 3 times a week. They had 8 people to cook for. I was told in no uncertain terms that i didnt know what I was talking about. Sometimes you cant cure things due to the nature of the house and sometimes people are just beyond helping.
What a shame, you can cook rice with lid on on a low simmer but just takes a lot longer. I hope the family eventually realise you were right! You did what you could. Sad they refused to hear you.
As an architect following investigation if the root cause of the damp cannot be identified and remedied on site, then we sometimes specify an injected DPC resin system into the masonry applied at around 150mm above floor level. Internally we then specify 2 coats of a painted waterproof coating system, whether it be bitumen based or liquid tanking applied to the exposed brick/block from the floor level up to and 50mm above the injected DPM line so that their is a continuous barrier at the base of a wall if water is trying to move upward. However, we would then specify a lime plaster scratch coat and finishing coat as it allows the plaster to breath compared to standard gypsum plasters. Lime plaster is used in damp and cold environments like churches as it doesnt show any inherent damp or tide marks visually caused by a damp masonry substrate.
I encountered a similar damp problem a couple of years back. Damp patches either side of a doorway into a conservatory (from the skirting upwards for a foot or so.) The conservatory had a tiled floor. Tried just about everything to no effect. Decided to remove the skirting and then cut a narrow channel down beneath the skirting to see what was below. It turned out that the screeded subfloor had been laid on a damp proof membrane but this was just butted against, what had formerly been, the outside wall, about an inch below the house damp course. The subfloor effectively bridging the damp course. I used pu foam to fill the gap up to the floor level, replaced the skirting and made good. It has been perfect ever since.
Very sensible - diagnosis before a cure. In the Skill Builder I am afraid to say that the plasterer has merely covered up the problem for now, unless the cause of the excess moisture is tracked down and eliminated.
There is a small issue in my home that i am sure is something like this, but too small an issue to want to hack anything back to fix it, but where an old building from 1906 meets a new bit. Annoying my builder didnt foresee it.
Fantastic video, he makes the plastering look easy doesn't he. Would never have thought of using render internally like that, fantastic explanations and tips. Great channel
Trouble is he failed to work out where the excess moisture was coming from so not a good example of dealing with a defect I am afraid. Diagnosis before treatment I think you will agree.
Used to get this all the time in the 80's... Builders 're-furbing' old houses, then using browning/bonding right down to the solid floor. Just like blotting paper. Back then it was aluminium stearate injection and Limelite renovating to replace the plaster - which we absolutely hated. Then we started using 1:3 river sand and cement scratch coat, with Rendermix 1:40in the gauging water. Thistle renovating backing (no longer made unfortunately,) to dub out, Thistle renovating finish top coat. Never had one call back in thirteen years, when this system was used. I like those damp proof infusion rods - they seem like a hell of a lot simpler than the injection - which used to end up splashing back at times, and covering us. Glad I'm out of the game now, whatever.
A tip I learned after years of mixing like that. mix by pouring from bucket to bucket. save wrists, plastering takes enough of a toll as is. Isn't wrist a weird word "wristed on me m8"
With these kind of videos Skillbuilder are showing now, it would be interesting for an update to see if it worked. Roger also mentioned an humidity tester maybe he could recommend one and go through the correct way to use and read it.
I like this guy, a good conscientious tradesman. An alternative to this method is to use 50/50 SBR and cement, painted on, then dry out, then the same, but while tacky waterproof render then plaster. Belt and braces, but has worked very well for me over the years.
Actually there was no tracking down the actual moisture source or diagnosis. The damp was merely covered up, with a water resistant, plaster rather than solved.
Excellent job attention to detail and a really good finish, my only concern would be that having sealed the wall against the damp it’s not cured the cause. Would definitely get some controlled ventilation going with that property. Also as mentioned, you can’t do anything about the geological slope they’ve just built the house far too low in the ground for whatever insane reason?
You should know humidity levels from survey report. That's what our surveyors always do, measure temperature and humidity levels in the room where the problem is. Anyway that high humidity doesn't cause that rising damp problem. High levels of humidity cause condensation on cold spots and then black mould create on those places. That missing trickle vents is a good spot. I know from the praxis, that there are many different issues with a damp in the properties and therefore we always make a decision what systems we will use to solve those problems. I like the quality of a work. That's the minimum level we try to keep on our jobs. Sometimes we leave job side cleaner than it was before.
You had two main problems: the water butt and the bonding plaster. You didn't need the water proofer as the butt was fixed and bonding was removed. Bonding is probably the worse type of plaster to use where there is damp, particularly when, as you pointed out, it had bridged the damp course. Well done for investigating the causes first.
I worked for a company that installed DPCs I did a DPC on a kitchen extension the kitchen walls had black mould on them the DPC was a total waste of time.I left the company as I was told if anyone asked I had been on the training course that chemical supplier ran.I hadn't had any training so any warranties offered by the supplier were worthless. Damp proofing is one the biggest cons going if not done properly this particular job needed an extractor fan fitting not a DPC.
6:35 made me laugh Roger. If I didn’t know you were stood on something. I’m 6’5” so that looks how I feel most of the time 😂 good investigatory work as always!
my first thought is. This is an aftermarket conservatory that's why there's a vertical dpc at returns internally. There is no damp or cold bridging protection installed where the conservatory attaches to the existing build.
Great..getting rid of the contaminated and bonding plaster is main problem with this issue.. However the sand you are using in the waterproof rendering needs to be "washed plastering sand" and not soft or building sand. The plastering sand has no salts or contaminates , building sand is full of it and can wick through whilst drying, this in turn will attract atmostpheric moisture.. I would also treat the algae externally ,then after a few days ,apply storm dry on the vulnerable walls ... This will weather proof the masonry but still allow it to breathe ....this after the obvious water butt and guttering problem is sorted Consider installation of eco drain around the perimeter. Decorating should be Matt emulsion only and only after it's totally dry after several weeks. Good and proper ventilation is key especially when everything is on one level. Consider continual running humidistat controlled extract fans in kitchen and bathrooms to extract at source. Good luck
I have no idea and not alot of experience but I'd say just abit of the bonding needed to be removed from the bottom, perhaps just above skirting height and then sand cement rendered in plus sort the water butt out too.
I believe the reason that plaster is taken off so high is because water can only wick up a certain height - it they only hack off the bit that was showing the damp, it could just travel further up in the brick and pop out further up. However, if the issue was just that the bonding was touching the floor, you may be correct.
Hi . I have the same pillar on the interior. Can you advice how to drill ,the diameter of the hole, how long should the dryrods be? I am trying to think how to do this after taking the old plaster of to a meter. I am thinking the rods are too long and on one side it will go in but on the other 2 sides I have to cut the rods at quarter? Hope this makes sense. Help please.
Neat work but the most important step has been ignored - diagnosis. Seems to me that if the potential sources of damp mentioned by Roger (condensation, leaking gutters, high ground, leaking RW butt, pavement back-falls) had first been dealt with, the wall may have dried out over time. Instead the problem has been covered up and may return unless the sources of excess moisture mentioned are dealt with.
What makes you think the gutters, waterbutt, dehumidifier, ground level right next to the house weren't dealt with? They talked about it in the video, but you needed to see it on camera to believe they would tend to those issues? Have a little trust 😂
Oh hell no. Trying to patch and not fix the route cause. The water is coming from somewhere, you can't just block the moisture in and hope for the best.
Your problem is bonding is highly absorbent. Im a plasterer and one thing we do not do is use bonding on perimeter walls for that reason. Should be hardwall or sand and cement. And it certainly should not go to the ground. That will suck any water from the ground up. Also kill the moss as that will grow roots through the walls
so difficult to find decent honest tradesmen like this guy, guarrantee if i tried to find someone local to me to sort something like this it would be some oddjob man with a can of ronseal guarranteeing i'll have no more problems 😂
Maybe installing a runaway drain at ground level, along the wall at 05:30 and around the conservatory would help carry any excess water away to the drain near the water butt.
I do like Roger, lovely guy and i enjoy watching his fixes. He's got a great deal of knowledge and i agree with him on most things except damp. Instead of wasting time and money on the waterproofing render and damp rods etc ( which will cause another set of problems). Look for the root of the problem. It's very obvious and was even shown in the video. The damp proofing industry is money spinner....like selling a fridge to an Eskimo. In this case... Fix any guttering...fix high ground issues outside and improve the drainage and grounf run-off...move the water butt away and check it's drainage and run-off. This will cost far less money to fix than spending unnecessary thousands on a nothing burger that is the damp proofing industry.
The brickwork is the external original skin-now it’s inside the house due to the old conservatory bolted on after ? The vertical damp needs to be where the inside meets the out ?
Where the join is at the top, using a multi tool would of done a better job and made a straight join for the plaster to meet to with the scrim, but that's just what I would do.
I had this done by a “reputable company” the part where the new plaster meets the old plaster leaves a line. When I paint it, it’s a different shade from the new to the old. I left the new plaster to dry for the recommended 12 months without paint and did the usual mist coat but you can always see the join. I wish they plastered the whole wall rather than a meter up.
Viewers are thinking all the same thing, if the outside drainage issues had been sorted out would the plaster have dried out anyway.........................to be fair the builder was a top man for allowing this to go on RUclips because he took some heat!
I love watching these videos but can i just add not a good idea to use a wet brush right next to an uncovered socket for that work it would have been better to either remove the face plate or use tape to cover the edges and then use waterproof paper like bodyshop paper to prevent water dust and ingress into it as its a fire hazard
Thanks Roger, I just wish that so many other "wannabe experts" would take such a common sense approach instead of trying to portray themselves as "actual experts" who know so much more than their customers. Personally, I'm never afraid to say "I don't know", but it could be....
Roger on a roll with damp and black mould videos, very relevant. Would you consider reviewing decentralised MVHR units? They seem a good retrofit for older properties looking to control moisture levels and air circulation in homes. I’d love to know your opinion on them. Cheers
I am a roofer, and no one has seen the problem, the both guttering when it rains like a tap off the the roof and the conservatory the water can not go down the drain pipe quick enough, so the water come over the guttering, the guttering is short at the conservatory ,the water will run down the roof and run between the guttering at the end of the guttering, same on the main roof their is a gap were the running outlet on the guttering the water will miss the guttering and run down the fascia broad corner ,you not see it because the guttering is hiding it ,so you need two down pipes, one 1⃣ the conservatory and one at the other end of the build over the fence, and you look behind you, next door shed guttering, the water is missing the guttering and going into the back yard,and we're the shed up against the wall the water is running down the back of the shed
Have you tried using a curtain drain all the way around the structure to lower the water table in the soil? It doesn’t need to be installed against the foundation, only close enough to it so that the structure is within the zone of influence of the sub-surface drain.
I have damp around a bay window on a very old Cotswolds cottage. How can I solve this as I’m skeptical about having damp proof cream injected in the walls! Aside from stopping any penetrating damp from the outside can I just get the inside ‘tanked’??
My advice is to follow medical model - Investigation - diagnosis - remedy options - select most appropriate remedy. In other words you need to track down the cause/s of the problem rather then treat its symptoms. Tanking the inside may work but it is treating the symptoms and concealed damp could rise above the tanking to escape by evaporation.
Checkout the brickwork and mortar and if it's currently rendered at all you might have rotten wood or mould inside it too, so have a thorough investigation of condition first structurally how the bay is holding up. Fix outside first and the inside should dry out on it's own.
Seen this on many conservatory add ons by pvc guys not knowing the rules of true construction to regulations also the original conservatory floor will have little or no insulation - nightmare hence the hi moisture content in the air ?
Nobody seems to have asked whether there is a cavity tray @ conservatory junction? If not then the cavity drips will run down the remaining end cavity won't it?
The reason why nobody has mentioned a cavity tray is because it is a bungalow, single storie building so above the opening is the roof. You can see this in the video when we go outside. If this had been a two storie buiding it would have been something to look at.
Is the room not likely to be a bit more humid because of that initial problem damp spot on the wall? Humidity levels may decrease when it's dried out/problem repaired
@SkillBuilder , just followed the process to fix my own damp issue. Also interested in, PVA or SBR before multifinish on that scratch coat. And no skrim needed?
Don't know how to provide a link but if you view the playlist section of the Skillbuilder channel. On the Damp Proofing videos it is the 2nd one down, titled How to get rid of this and 8.21 minutes long.
Anyone else wondering why what was an external wall now has PIR on it under the plaster? Given there was no problem before and there is now i'm wondering if the conservatory has caused it, maybe the floor has breached a DPM/DPC somehow. Oh and it's technically 'illegal' as far as building regs are concerned as it has no doors on it and is centrally heated.
You can see where the problem is, the gutter does not go around the corner in 1 piece it's 2 separate lengths meeting with a 2 inch gap in between , so the rain is just running off the roof and landing in the corner, exactly where the problem is
If seen the DPC pointed over... bloody stupid! Any decent trade knows that's a no-no. I had a job recently that had a similar issue, DPC bridged externally and a tiny bit of gutter to take the rainwater from 3 large roofs, sycamore tree nearby, leave balloon in the gutter which was actually too large and the splines were causing a blockage added to that the sycamore seeds caused a serious overflow and internal damp issue. Took a similar approach to this to remedy the problem. I would check the inside of that power point, seen it where the wall is damp and the box is rusted inside and can cause shorting.
Shows up to the jobsite without a moisture meter and then puts a glass in the freezer, pulls it out and Wipes it to detect moisture....😂. Yeah ok. Look at Roger's face when he did that. 🤡 Great work Roger.
So frustrating watching people caulk on bare plaster. As a decorator (and plasterer), it’s frustrating having to cut out failed caulk that’s been applied to bare plaster and bare wood. Pain in the arse and unnecessary.
@@Daniells1982 I would not caulk. I would fill the gap along the top of the skirting horizontally, with a filler. This then gives a straight edge, not a curved edge, a nicer straight paint line can then be applied. Caulking is just cheap and quick. Look at a new build, caulk everywhere.
Cold glass in the freezer is a crap test, it's a con man trick. -18c glass will prove there is moisture in the air, as there always is, just not to what quantity. No offence Roger.
Ignoring the larger point about damp repairs, this was a fantastic video about plastering and general plaster/render/wall repair
Im so glad Roger talks about managing expectations. In the past ive explained situations to customers but the belief is that im paying to have this sorted, it must be sorted. Sometimes all you can do is everything reasonably possible to stop an issue and it IS normally water ingress but because of the way a house has been built or because of ground conditions or even the lifestyle of the customer, sometimes you can only improve the situation.
I went to an asian family once and they had mould in the kitchen, the first time i went the house was empty bar one customer and everything was normal, i couldnt diagnose a leak of any kind, they had trickle vents and also a fan wired to the lights so i didnt suspect damp. I said theres no issue here and asked if they create much humidity etc... no no just live normal. When i was called back weeks later they said the ceiling and back wall are wet, damp to the touch. I went round after work and the wife was cooking. 2 MASSIVE pots on the stove, full of rice and water and a huge pot with curry in it. The steam was billowing from these pots and i told them exactly what the problem was. They wouldnt believe me, they said we use the extractor. Which was a carbon extractor, so not vented outside, likely with filters that had never been changed and i told them, you would have to make this an outdoor kitchen to get rid of that much steam but i was still told i was wrong. The fzct that the fridge 5 feet away had moisture on the door didnt convince them. It was like a steam engine room in that kitchen and they said she cooks big batches 3 times a week. They had 8 people to cook for. I was told in no uncertain terms that i didnt know what I was talking about. Sometimes you cant cure things due to the nature of the house and sometimes people are just beyond helping.
What a shame, you can cook rice with lid on on a low simmer but just takes a lot longer. I hope the family eventually realise you were right! You did what you could. Sad they refused to hear you.
You guys are saving my sanity, Roger. Big DIY project underway and your channel is brimful with ideas!
As an architect following investigation if the root cause of the damp cannot be identified and remedied on site, then we sometimes specify an injected DPC resin system into the masonry applied at around 150mm above floor level. Internally we then specify 2 coats of a painted waterproof coating system, whether it be bitumen based or liquid tanking applied to the exposed brick/block from the floor level up to and 50mm above the injected DPM line so that their is a continuous barrier at the base of a wall if water is trying to move upward. However, we would then specify a lime plaster scratch coat and finishing coat as it allows the plaster to breath compared to standard gypsum plasters. Lime plaster is used in damp and cold environments like churches as it doesnt show any inherent damp or tide marks visually caused by a damp masonry substrate.
That plaster job was immaculate absolute craftmanship ❤
Love the way the guy was so careful in blending the new plaster to the existing plaster 👏🏻
I encountered a similar damp problem a couple of years back. Damp patches either side of a doorway into a conservatory (from the skirting upwards for a foot or so.) The conservatory had a tiled floor. Tried just about everything to no effect. Decided to remove the skirting and then cut a narrow channel down beneath the skirting to see what was below. It turned out that the screeded subfloor had been laid on a damp proof membrane but this was just butted against, what had formerly been, the outside wall, about an inch below the house damp course. The subfloor effectively bridging the damp course. I used pu foam to fill the gap up to the floor level, replaced the skirting and made good. It has been perfect ever since.
Very sensible - diagnosis before a cure. In the Skill Builder I am afraid to say that the plasterer has merely covered up the problem for now, unless the cause of the excess moisture is tracked down and eliminated.
There is a small issue in my home that i am sure is something like this, but too small an issue to want to hack anything back to fix it, but where an old building from 1906 meets a new bit. Annoying my builder didnt foresee it.
Had a damp issue with the first row of roof tiles, the felt had weathered causing a damp issue, great hand skills, always enjoy your video's 👍
Fantastic video, he makes the plastering look easy doesn't he.
Would never have thought of using render internally like that, fantastic explanations and tips. Great channel
Where can we find professionals like this guy ? Amazing work
There are some. You just have to find them.
Trouble is he failed to work out where the excess moisture was coming from so not a good example of dealing with a defect I am afraid. Diagnosis before treatment I think you will agree.
Used to get this all the time in the 80's... Builders 're-furbing' old houses, then using browning/bonding right down to the solid floor. Just like blotting paper. Back then it was aluminium stearate injection and Limelite renovating to replace the plaster - which we absolutely hated. Then we started using 1:3 river sand and cement scratch coat, with Rendermix 1:40in the gauging water. Thistle renovating backing (no longer made unfortunately,) to dub out, Thistle renovating finish top coat. Never had one call back in thirteen years, when this system was used. I like those damp proof infusion rods - they seem like a hell of a lot simpler than the injection - which used to end up splashing back at times, and covering us. Glad I'm out of the game now, whatever.
A tip I learned after years of mixing like that.
mix by pouring from bucket to bucket.
save wrists, plastering takes enough of a toll as is.
Isn't wrist a weird word
"wristed on me m8"
With these kind of videos Skillbuilder are showing now, it would be interesting for an update to see if it worked. Roger also mentioned an humidity tester maybe he could recommend one and go through the correct way to use and read it.
Vaisala
Lovley calm exsplains every step learn so much skill with no bull lovley video of exsperts with years of exsperiance very satisfying to watch ty
I like this guy, a good conscientious tradesman. An alternative to this method is to use 50/50 SBR and cement, painted on, then dry out, then the same, but while tacky waterproof render then plaster. Belt and braces, but has worked very well for me over the years.
Call me weird but I enjoyed watching an artist taking pride in his work 👍🏽 Customers don’t appreciate the skill sometimes.
They are not just skilled or artists- they pick up knowledge which is priceless! True architects!
most of the people do appreciate that if you do such a quality of work
A trades person who takes pride in his work is all you need
I love watching plastering. Such a skill. For me, it’s the trade that makes a house.
Looks good and logical approach to diagnosis. It would be interesting to revisit though, not to pick holes at all but to see if it did work. 👍
Actually there was no tracking down the actual moisture source or diagnosis. The damp was merely covered up, with a water resistant, plaster rather than solved.
Absolutely amazing to watch, true artist
Roger, absolutely love your clips whether it’s relevant or not always worth a watch as a home owner. Great job mate 👍
Excellent job attention to detail and a really good finish, my only concern would be that having sealed the wall against the damp it’s not cured the cause. Would definitely get some controlled ventilation going with that property. Also as mentioned, you can’t do anything about the geological slope they’ve just built the house far too low in the ground for whatever insane reason?
This bloke a real pro , attention to detail is something else ,made the lads who I thought did a decent job for me look like amateurs or even bodgers.
That’s why your business went under. You were consistent in bodge jobs 😮
Nice job by a skilled tradesman. I didn’t see him put the scrim tape on though.
You should know humidity levels from survey report. That's what our surveyors always do, measure temperature and humidity levels in the room where the problem is. Anyway that high humidity doesn't cause that rising damp problem. High levels of humidity cause condensation on cold spots and then black mould create on those places. That missing trickle vents is a good spot.
I know from the praxis, that there are many different issues with a damp in the properties and therefore we always make a decision what systems we will use to solve those problems.
I like the quality of a work. That's the minimum level we try to keep on our jobs. Sometimes we leave job side cleaner than it was before.
You had two main problems: the water butt and the bonding plaster. You didn't need the water proofer as the butt was fixed and bonding was removed.
Bonding is probably the worse type of plaster to use where there is damp, particularly when, as you pointed out, it had bridged the damp course.
Well done for investigating the causes first.
I worked for a company that installed DPCs I did a DPC on a kitchen extension the kitchen walls had black mould on them the DPC was a total waste of time.I left the company as I was told if anyone asked I had been on the training course that chemical supplier ran.I hadn't had any training so any warranties offered by the supplier were worthless. Damp proofing is one the biggest cons going if not done properly this particular job needed an extractor fan fitting not a DPC.
Decent of you to have had morals, ethics, values, integrity etc and not continue working for them. Good on ya.
6:35 made me laugh Roger. If I didn’t know you were stood on something. I’m 6’5” so that looks how I feel most of the time 😂 good investigatory work as always!
Roger love the tip with the glass Genius, You have good 👁 for details
For rising damp - do you recommend to use mortar course products like dry rods? or brick injection based products.
my first thought is. This is an aftermarket conservatory that's why there's a vertical dpc at returns internally. There is no damp or cold bridging protection installed where the conservatory attaches to the existing build.
Love your work
Great..getting rid of the contaminated and bonding plaster is main problem with this issue.. However the sand you are using in the waterproof rendering needs to be "washed plastering sand" and not soft or building sand.
The plastering sand has no salts or contaminates , building sand is full of it and can wick through whilst drying, this in turn will attract atmostpheric moisture..
I would also treat the algae externally ,then after a few days ,apply storm dry on the vulnerable walls ... This will weather proof the masonry but still allow it to breathe ....this after the obvious water butt and guttering problem is sorted
Consider installation of eco drain around the perimeter.
Decorating should be Matt emulsion only and only after it's totally dry after several weeks.
Good and proper ventilation is key especially when everything is on one level.
Consider continual running humidistat controlled extract fans in kitchen and bathrooms to extract at source.
Good luck
I have no idea and not alot of experience but I'd say just abit of the bonding needed to be removed from the bottom, perhaps just above skirting height and then sand cement rendered in plus sort the water butt out too.
I believe the reason that plaster is taken off so high is because water can only wick up a certain height - it they only hack off the bit that was showing the damp, it could just travel further up in the brick and pop out further up. However, if the issue was just that the bonding was touching the floor, you may be correct.
Hi . I have the same pillar on the interior. Can you advice how to drill ,the diameter of the hole, how long should the dryrods be? I am trying to think how to do this after taking the old plaster of to a meter. I am thinking the rods are too long and on one side it will go in but on the other 2 sides I have to cut the rods at quarter? Hope this makes sense. Help please.
Neat work but the most important step has been ignored - diagnosis. Seems to me that if the potential sources of damp mentioned by Roger (condensation, leaking gutters, high ground, leaking RW butt, pavement back-falls) had first been dealt with, the wall may have dried out over time. Instead the problem has been covered up and may return unless the sources of excess moisture mentioned are dealt with.
Exactly.
What makes you think the gutters, waterbutt, dehumidifier, ground level right next to the house weren't dealt with? They talked about it in the video, but you needed to see it on camera to believe they would tend to those issues? Have a little trust 😂
Oh hell no. Trying to patch and not fix the route cause. The water is coming from somewhere, you can't just block the moisture in and hope for the best.
Maybe watch the whole video and then you’ll see that they do try to find the root cause..
Your problem is bonding is highly absorbent.
Im a plasterer and one thing we do not do is use bonding on perimeter walls for that reason.
Should be hardwall or sand and cement. And it certainly should not go to the ground. That will suck any water from the ground up.
Also kill the moss as that will grow roots through the walls
They added waterproofer?
so difficult to find decent honest tradesmen like this guy, guarrantee if i tried to find someone local to me to sort something like this it would be some oddjob man with a can of ronseal guarranteeing i'll have no more problems 😂
Yes, you are right, but there are still good tradesmen on the market with good recommendations. You just have to find them
Maybe installing a runaway drain at ground level, along the wall at 05:30 and around the conservatory would help carry any excess water away to the drain near the water butt.
May have been a good idea to clean the cavity out at dpc level
I do like Roger, lovely guy and i enjoy watching his fixes. He's got a great deal of knowledge and i agree with him on most things except damp. Instead of wasting time and money on the waterproofing render and damp rods etc ( which will cause another set of problems). Look for the root of the problem. It's very obvious and was even shown in the video. The damp proofing industry is money spinner....like selling a fridge to an Eskimo. In this case... Fix any guttering...fix high ground issues outside and improve the drainage and grounf run-off...move the water butt away and check it's drainage and run-off. This will cost far less money to fix than spending unnecessary thousands on a nothing burger that is the damp proofing industry.
Very Neat Workmanship ✅🤳
Few tips on skim working lol 🤣
Wow he is good
I'm no professional but I used Damp Proof paint on the damp area inside once I had dealt with the water issues outside.
The brickwork is the external original skin-now it’s inside the house due to the old conservatory bolted on after ? The vertical damp needs to be where the inside meets the out ?
Was the scrim tape put on as mentioned? I couldn't see it.
Where does that swa cable go to? If you have a hole in the outer insulation it can suck water by capillary action. Seen it burn a house down one time!
Where the join is at the top, using a multi tool would of done a better job and made a straight join for the plaster to meet to with the scrim, but that's just what I would do.
Can you book that builder who regularly appears on the videos? - he's very good
Good tips!
That guy is very skilled! (stating the obvious, I know!)
I had this done by a “reputable company” the part where the new plaster meets the old plaster leaves a line. When I paint it, it’s a different shade from the new to the old. I left the new plaster to dry for the recommended 12 months without paint and did the usual mist coat but you can always see the join. I wish they plastered the whole wall rather than a meter up.
Not too late to re-plaster the whole wall, or to get a decent undercoat.
Viewers are thinking all the same thing, if the outside drainage issues had been sorted out would the plaster have dried out anyway.........................to be fair the builder was a top man for allowing this to go on RUclips because he took some heat!
Well I found the tutorial on using waterproofed render inside and how to skim nicely all rather enjoyable nevertheless
Why no trickle vents in the conservatory? 🤔🤔
I love watching these videos but can i just add not a good idea to use a wet brush right next to an uncovered socket for that work it would have been better to either remove the face plate or use tape to cover the edges and then use waterproof paper like bodyshop paper to prevent water dust and ingress into it as its a fire hazard
Thanks Roger,
I just wish that so many other "wannabe experts" would take such a common sense approach instead of trying to portray themselves as "actual experts" who know so much more than their customers.
Personally, I'm never afraid to say "I don't know", but it could be....
outside situation is huge!
Therapeutic to watch skilled pros at work.
I'd be checking the gully pot and drain from as well. Possibly leaking, soaking the foundation.
Roger on a roll with damp and black mould videos, very relevant. Would you consider reviewing decentralised MVHR units? They seem a good retrofit for older properties looking to control moisture levels and air circulation in homes. I’d love to know your opinion on them.
Cheers
I am a roofer, and no one has seen the problem, the both guttering when it rains like a tap off the the roof and the conservatory the water can not go down the drain pipe quick enough, so the water come over the guttering, the guttering is short at the conservatory ,the water will run down the roof and run between the guttering at the end of the guttering, same on the main roof their is a gap were the running outlet on the guttering the water will miss the guttering and run down the fascia broad corner ,you not see it because the guttering is hiding it ,so you need two down pipes, one 1⃣ the conservatory and one at the other end of the build over the fence, and you look behind you, next door shed guttering, the water is missing the guttering and going into the back yard,and we're the shed up against the wall the water is running down the back of the shed
I hope the homeowner or Roger see your comment ⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️🔝🔝🔝
good video roger !
Have you tried using a curtain drain all the way around the structure to lower the water table in the soil? It doesn’t need to be installed against the foundation, only close enough to it so that the structure is within the zone of influence of the sub-surface drain.
When you say a curtain drain do you mean an Aco type drain system around the property?
I have damp around a bay window on a very old Cotswolds cottage. How can I solve this as I’m skeptical about having damp proof cream injected in the walls! Aside from stopping any penetrating damp from the outside can I just get the inside ‘tanked’??
look for a lime plasterer if it's an old, solid walled house.
if you mean by penetrating you mean the walls are below ground, dig a trench.
My advice is to follow medical model - Investigation - diagnosis - remedy options - select most appropriate remedy. In other words you need to track down the cause/s of the problem rather then treat its symptoms. Tanking the inside may work but it is treating the symptoms and concealed damp could rise above the tanking to escape by evaporation.
Checkout the brickwork and mortar and if it's currently rendered at all you might have rotten wood or mould inside it too, so have a thorough investigation of condition first structurally how the bay is holding up. Fix outside first and the inside should dry out on it's own.
I would also be worried that the shed roof is directing water onto the house brickwork.
Seen this on many conservatory add ons by pvc guys not knowing the rules of true construction to regulations also the original conservatory floor will have little or no insulation - nightmare hence the hi moisture content in the air ?
Nobody seems to have asked whether there is a cavity tray @ conservatory junction? If not then the cavity drips will run down the remaining end cavity won't it?
The reason why nobody has mentioned a cavity tray is because it is a bungalow, single storie building so above the opening is the roof.
You can see this in the video when we go outside. If this had been a two storie buiding it would have been something to look at.
The fact the wall is dry behind shows that it's a condensation problem, especially if it's the old gypsum plaster
"Cured the problem"...famous last words! Yikes...
Is the room not likely to be a bit more humid because of that initial problem damp spot on the wall?
Humidity levels may decrease when it's dried out/problem repaired
Humidity in the air usually don't cause rising damp issue. High humidity and low temp causing mould issue.
did he not put pva before plastering?
@SkillBuilder , just followed the process to fix my own damp issue. Also interested in, PVA or SBR before multifinish on that scratch coat. And no skrim needed?
Can someone provide a link to the video where they were installing the dry rods in the intro of this video please
Don't know how to provide a link but if you view the playlist section of the Skillbuilder channel. On the Damp Proofing videos it is the 2nd one down, titled How to get rid of this and 8.21 minutes long.
Made me want to do a bit of plastering. Bosh bosh, wallop.
very nice
What happened to the scrim tape
they used invisible one 😄
99% of the time there is always a direct source of moisture and quite commonly i have found it to be poor rainwater management systems.
Why didn't you look for the solution before taking off the plaster? If you find the solution the wall dries out anyway, right?
Condensation. Hence all the brickwork is dry once the plaster was off. So all you needed to do was open a window and now strip the flipping wall!
Anyone else wondering why what was an external wall now has PIR on it under the plaster? Given there was no problem before and there is now i'm wondering if the conservatory has caused it, maybe the floor has breached a DPM/DPC somehow. Oh and it's technically 'illegal' as far as building regs are concerned as it has no doors on it and is centrally heated.
Lime render would be better as it seems to be a reoccurring problem
.
love these vids
Why color of the render is almost red ?In Romania we do not have that color, only on bricks.
there are different product they use in UK
First. Quality tradesman. 👍
You can see where the problem is, the gutter does not go around the corner in 1 piece it's 2 separate lengths meeting with a 2 inch gap in between , so the rain is just running off the roof and landing in the corner, exactly where the problem is
Soft sand/building sand is not the best sand to use, it has clay in it, best to use a washed sand like fine sharp or plastering sand.
didn't see any scrim on those joints
If seen the DPC pointed over... bloody stupid! Any decent trade knows that's a no-no. I had a job recently that had a similar issue, DPC bridged externally and a tiny bit of gutter to take the rainwater from 3 large roofs, sycamore tree nearby, leave balloon in the gutter which was actually too large and the splines were causing a blockage added to that the sycamore seeds caused a serious overflow and internal damp issue. Took a similar approach to this to remedy the problem. I would check the inside of that power point, seen it where the wall is damp and the box is rusted inside and can cause shorting.
Isn’t using water proof rendering just trapping the moisture in...fix the root cause I’m sure that plaster would dry out in time
cavity tray????
Bungalow
Shows up to the jobsite without a moisture meter and then puts a glass in the freezer, pulls it out and Wipes it to detect moisture....😂. Yeah ok. Look at Roger's face when he did that. 🤡
Great work Roger.
Forgot to put your scrim on....😅
Bonding soaks up water like a sponge. Should never be used at low level.
Of course a cold glass will condensate when put in a warm room! Doesn't mean humidity is high, just basic physics 🙄
It is not that it produces condensation it is the quantity. A cold glass, a cold wall....... basic physics.
It'll be back
use a piece of skirting to rule it off flat
The wall looks bone dry and dusty. Where is the damp?
no scrim ?????????? and clean the gutters out first , sort out the water butt and see if the wall dry's out first
👍👍👍..
So frustrating watching people caulk on bare plaster. As a decorator (and plasterer), it’s frustrating having to cut out failed caulk that’s been applied to bare plaster and bare wood. Pain in the arse and unnecessary.
So would you apply the caulk after the walls have had a mist coat and woodwork primed? Honest question.
@@Daniells1982 I would not caulk. I would fill the gap along the top of the skirting horizontally, with a filler. This then gives a straight edge, not a curved edge, a nicer straight paint line can then be applied. Caulking is just cheap and quick.
Look at a new build, caulk everywhere.
Cold glass in the freezer is a crap test, it's a con man trick. -18c glass will prove there is moisture in the air, as there always is, just not to what quantity. No offence Roger.