Excellent video and walkthrough! With your video, I was able to complete this job in 3 hours with the help of my friend, and saved $1000! I was quoted at two different mechanics for 7 hours labor to do this job, and another hundred dollars for the part. Thank you so much! Truth be told, this isn’t a very difficult job once you get the hoses clamped off from the radiator. Just a bit time consuming.
Another way is to remove the upper dash cover, remove 3 screws across the top, pop a cover off each side of the dash and almost remove the 2 screws on the driver's side. Lock the steering wheel, remove the pinch bolt on the steering shaft on the floor and slide the shaft free. On passenger side, disconnect the blower motor, blower resistor connectors and 2 more plugs. Remove the 2 bolts on the side of the dash and slide the entire dash back and set on the seat. Then you have a acre of room to remove the core
i wished all the shade tree mechanics can make a video as good as your video. i dont need to replace my heater core yet, but its so good to know how to do it
@@bowlerguy426 in the time he spent dicking around with the saw he could have taken out the 2 bolts on the other side, bungied the steering wheel and takin the steering shaft bolt out and just pulled the whole dash off.
You do an amazing job of breaking everything down step by step and make it easy to follow.... You saved me about $350 by showing me how to do this... Thank you so much. God bless
Thank you for posting this video, this needs to be done on our car and I feel so much better knowing we could do it ourselves versus spending $1300 for someone else to do it.
$1,300 sounds WAY overpriced. Not sure what all that price includes though. On these cars if you just want the heater core replaced it's usually only $300-500. Me and my dad just did my GFs car. I took all the dash apart to make it easier. In total took us about 6 hours 30 minutes. I did also buy a new water pump (not that it needs one) and a radiator because if the heater core is getting clogged it's a good sign the radiator is pretty clogged to. So replace water pump and radiator also or the heater core will end up clogged in no time
I'll be doing mine tomorrow. I like the his video. It tells you everything you need to know. Nothing too difficult, just time consuming. I'll let you know how it turns out. Mine is a 2002 Taurus LX. With over head valves.
I was under the impression that this was a nightmare job and cost an arm and a leg to have it done at a shop. You made look a lot easier to do, Time commingling yes.. But worth saving my self 100"s of dollars! Thanks for the Video. Very helpful..
Fantastic video ! Perfect step by step instructions ! Only thing different I did was to remove the intake manifold so that I could teach the heater core hoses and while I was at it, I changed those two difficult to reach spark plugs. Thanks for making this video
Lol hes a clown. Never do it like this. My god if this is how shops do it then no wonder charge a grand. Go from under the dash dont have to do all this. Clown world mechanic.
Thank you for the video, im a very mechanicallu inclined person but i dont typically work on economy vehicles like this so watching your video made it so much quicker i got the job done in an hour amd a half
Hi Nathan. I had to replace the heater core in an 07, and your video saved me a lot of time and frustration. The only thing I did different, was that I took the plenum loose and moved it out of the way. My big hands couldn't get back in there otherwise.
great video,i have an 04 with little heat,no good in NE,first like yourself i'll try and flush it,but i also bought a heater core just in case,this job doesn't look too bad,your secret of taking a break is a great one,you can't work smartly when you're frustrated,makes a world of difference,thx again for the video.
Very well documented series of steps, without the "UMMS & AHHs " . As a suggestion, guys might loosen the top bolt on the driver's side & remove the bottom bolt only....that allows the dash to be supported on the loosened bolt as a pivot. You can either rest the passenger's side of the dash on the seat, or use your coffee can rest set up. I am not knocking the method shown in the video, merely indicating an option for supporting the removed dash. Damned good video...Well done!
I'm glad I found this video. I have to replace mine in a couple of days. Need heat to drive from Oklahoma to California. Thax for the very helpful video.
Very well explained . Thank you for putting the time in to make this video . There's still a lot of old Tauruses in use today, mine is a 2002 with 270,000 miles, no engine work has been done on it except the spark plugs and some vacuum lines. But the exterior 😢...... Plenty of character at the bottom,Rust Belt area 😞
Thank you for taking the time to show use all the steps from big to small. This a 10 over the other u tub's regarding this problem. the other u tub left out some small but important pieces. and steps
@@FixingWithPassion Thanks again for the tip of getting at the firewall hoses from the driver's side of the engine. I found that a pair of 5" Vise Grips worked very well. I had trouble getting the pax side hose off. So I looped a small rope around it and pulled it off. Eazy peezy! The '03 Taurus I'm working on has a center console. There is no small piece of metal to cut out on this car. However, the center console, (and cd changer if equipped), must be removed FIRST. For this configuration one MUST REMOVE the console. REMOVE THE CONSOLE BEFORE REMOVING ANY OTHER ITEMS FROM THE DASH. And NOTE: Once the center console is removed there is NOTHING to keep the dash from falling when the large bolts are removed. So be ready! Good luck!
Wow! That looked pretty easy, thank you for the video, you may have saved me $600. My only problem is having a bad back, it looks like a lot of bending & laying in the floor. But i think i will attempt it, like I said thank you sir & God bless, this was an excellent video.
Perfect video that worked well on my 1999 Gen 3. The Gen 3 doesn't have that bracket that needs to be cut off (mine didn`t at least). The blend door on mine didn't have that spring assembly/lever either (missing???). Getting the clamps off the heater core hose, and prying out the core was one of the harder thing to do!
Recently gotten a 99 sable gs and I'm thinking about replacing the heatercore ahead of time due to the low miles it has, 122k miles, least i dont need to pay 300-400$ to have someone do it 😂 thank you good sir!
I just replaced the spider web collection of heater hose on my 2001. A metal tube rusted through. Rockauto has the cheapest replacement part. I agree all the intake parts need to be removed, but there is more to be removed 1. remove the upper engine torque resistor and the plate bolted to the strut mount. 2. Remove bulk head connector and ground. 3. Cut the hoses and then remove the factory ford clamps. 4. Find the person you hate the most and give them the any and all factory Ford hose clamps you REPLACE.
If you don't have access to something to cut the bracket, it bends very easily back and forth and snaps off. Another way is if you're strong, lift the dash up about 5 inches with your shoulder while you pull the heater core out. A jack would work too to lift it if you're not strong.
Before you write-off the heater core, please read this: First I back flushed the heater core several times, going back & forth from outlet hose to inlet hose (outlet hose is the larger hose on passenger side). The water coming out was fairly clear, which didn't appear promising. Well, at least I thought I flushed it. When the vent register temperature didn't improve, & since both hoses were getting hot, I thought for sure, it was going to be a temp blend door, or actuator. So, I googled it & found this video ( ruclips.net/video/vY4z7kFGVqo/видео.html ). I knew right away what I did wrong. I wasn't aware of the stinking by-pass hose! On the 2004 Sable/Taurus, it's a bear to see back there, so I didn't notice it. So I flushed the H-core again, this time, with the by-pass hose pinched off, starting with the outlet hose and got a bunch of goopy rusty gunk coming out of the inlet hose. Went back & forth a few more times. Refilled system & now you can't leave your hand in front of the dash/vent registers for more than a few seconds. Thanks YZ250Yamaha969, you saved my marriage, (it's my wife's Sable). The moral of this story: Do NOT skip the step of pinching off the by-pass hose, or don't bother trying to flush at all! Thanks
I prefer disconnecting the steering shaft at the firewall from inside the car (make sure to hold the wheel straight with a bungee cord or something), and leaving the left side upper (near the door) bolt half way threaded in. Disconnect the three main plugs on the fuse box. Then you can pivot the dash all the way to the passenger seat and lay it there. This takes about the same amount of time as the cutting step.
@@FixingWithPassion it was step by step only thing I found difficult was never showed anything about putting lines back on the new core it sure help me alot thanks again great job
depends which model of ford taurus. mine is a sel for a 2003 taurus. the heater core is tucked behind the radio. quite a bigger task. no need to remove the dash
That metal arm behind the plastic accuator that you had to use a flathead screwdriver to pop the pin out. What is the full purpose of that? I just replaced my heater core and both plastic pieces that rest on the metal broke and where you pop that pin, that whole plastic piece snapped off. I was going to glue everything back but theres no room to get it in there. My 07 Taurus has a center counsel that runs all the way to the firewall that's blocking me. So I put everything back together without putting that piece on and everything is still working. I have cold and warm air coming out and I can choose from all the different vents and fan speeds. I'm just worried something's going to happen not having that piece in there. Thank you, your video helped me through the whole process of changing mine.
I did the same thing to my heater core... Only I fully removed the aluminum pipe from my heater core... Removing a hose and ended up with an extra part in my hand.
TVWXMAN32 yes. I think if we put some grease or some lube on the heater core pipes before putting on any flushing tubes, probably avoid damage. The rubber tube appears more soft, so it removes with less force. I always turn the rubber hoses with pliers after I remove the clamps and that breaks them loose to easily pull off.
I changed the heater core out and it works very well but after I started it up the car started acting strange and now it rocks back and forth in drive at a complete stop. Any idea of what this problem could be?
I've replaced the water pump and thermostat on my 2001 ford tauras and it still keeps overheating and it's not a blown head gasket, theres no water in the oil or no water dripping from tail pipe so I'm hoping this will fix it.
Radiator is Failing, A common sign that something is wrong with the radiator is when your engine starts to overheat. This can be caused by a faulty thermostat. When a defective thermostat no longer opens, the engine will overheat and cause a breakdown. you want to get that fix or you'll blow a head gasket.
It doesn't have any heat either, it just blows cold air that's why I thought it might be the heater core. Had to take thermostat out of car to make it home with. When I had the thermostat in it would only run around 40 miles before it ran hot, after I took out the thermostat out drive the car 186 miles without overheating. It started overheating as soon as got back in driveway @chucky chuck @Nathan Rohrbough
yes you want to remove the hoses at the block not the core, cracks it nearly every time , I just play it safe and flush it from the block end through the hoses...
If you haven't already trashed it, you should do a video showing the inside channels of the old core. I saw all of the sludge you got out when you flushed it and would imagine that even with that good flush there is still some remnant inside. Even if there isn't, I would be interested to compare it to the inside of a Renault core, which I did see in another video.
Hi I sent you a message back in July about my heater core I followed your video and changed it. Once I changed it I had heat tell about 7 days ago now it is like barely warm air now. I filled my reservoir will coolant but still having problems I live in Michigan and now it's getting real cold. Like I said when I first replaced it had tons of heat now over past 7 days its blowing kinda warm but not hott like it was. This is a 2003 Ford Taurus
Maybe some derbies from the engine got washed into the heater core. You night have to do a heater flush just to make sure. Make sure it full of antifreeze.
I found when they flushed my car the didn't remove the weird overflow or bypass thing and clean it good or better yet replace it. if they don't less than half the hot water if any is reaching the core or going through the core, the water is going through the bypass and isn't really cleaning or getting to the core so it is still plugged and cold.. So after all that we found they just didn't flush the Taurus properly. It's the only car with that weird overflow/bypass. It has a tendency to rust and/or plug up . So they reconnect all back up after the flush and all the crud stuck up in the bypass goes back in an plugs the core right back up little by little. Cooler Cooler Cold again. Also you of problems. might get the car warmed up and crimp one outflow hose gently with your hand and have the friend see if it gets warm again, if it does it means the overflow is letting the hot water bypass the core. Your thermostat even new might be dis functioning or even placed in wrong or check for air in the line, there are videos about all of this. Ford charges 17 hours Labor approx to this. He told me $800. to $1250. crap I only paid $ $1000 for it, Loved My Taurus, its taken me many miles had it since 2002 it had 8000 miles on it so 16 years, nice ride for a good price! I've had 4 of them now, both will still go over 100 mph and smooth no problem! DO NOT BY PASS THE overflow, your car will overheat and you'll have problems!
How you doing sir. I need your advice because I’m literally going insane. So I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SE, bought it a year ago, never had heat. I’ll get to the point. I installed the following (all brand new) : thermostat and gasket, blend door actuator, flushed the heater core THEN replaced it completely with a brand new heater core, I still have no heat??? What is wrong with my car?? The only thing I can possibly think of is the heater core sensor which I don’t even know where it is. So help me please
So I further inspected the blend door actuator, and whenever I turn the knob to the heat side, the lever that goes down kicks a bit and you can hear the door behind the whole unit actually slip, so the actual blend door, not the actuator, is faulty, I can’t find the part and I guess it’s called the plenum chamber or box or something, idk, any help??
My Taurus has a center console shifter, am I screwed? It looks hard enough to get it out without it being in the way. Anybody replace the heater core with the console?
For those hose clamps.. nothing works as good as ratcheting hose clamp pliers. They get into tight spaces awkward angles no problem and squeeze down tight no risk of injury
on my 1997 mercury sable dohc motor ,, the person who own the car before me cut a circle hole , in the plastic cover below way easy to get to where the water spicket is, my thermal stat is below the car
I have a floor mount shift on my Taurus would I still be able to only take the dash out or would I have to remove the seats and middle column to access it. The reason I ask is I priced this and a mechanic told me this would take him all day and he would charge me like $600 to do it. I'm attempting to do this myself and save my $600. Since this car is a 2005 I'm not interested in spending that much money on it.
Much easier to use a Dremel to cut around the core on the outside firewall. Then replace it with another piece of sheet metal. Mfr. engineers don't think when designing, also works for AC system core and no leaks. That way the whole AC can be removed and bench tested or replaced new. Some Fords had such systems for the computer, why not the heater and AC cores?
Nathan Rohrbough Thank you so much! I work on my car and house a lot, so captioning this this will absolutely help me (and I’m sure others as well) a lot! My heater core went out last winter and it was brutal... and I just don’t have the cash to dish out to get it repaired before this winter 😑 Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Nathan Rohrbough: King of Understatment
Excellent video and walkthrough! With your video, I was able to complete this job in 3 hours with the help of my friend, and saved $1000! I was quoted at two different mechanics for 7 hours labor to do this job, and another hundred dollars for the part. Thank you so much! Truth be told, this isn’t a very difficult job once you get the hoses clamped off from the radiator. Just a bit time consuming.
Nice~! Keep warm~~
7 hours? Holy fuck
Hes a clown. Removed stuff that was pointless and cut stuff up like wow insanity. Dont not do it like this.
Another way is to remove the upper dash cover, remove 3 screws across the top, pop a cover off each side of the dash and almost remove the 2 screws on the driver's side. Lock the steering wheel, remove the pinch bolt on the steering shaft on the floor and slide the shaft free. On passenger side, disconnect the blower motor, blower resistor connectors and 2 more plugs. Remove the 2 bolts on the side of the dash and slide the entire dash back and set on the seat. Then you have a acre of room to remove the core
Nice!
i wished all the shade tree mechanics can make a video as good as your video. i dont need to replace my heater core yet, but its so good to know how to do it
This guy is the definition of shade tree mechanic. As soon as he broke out the saw I stopped watching.
@@corycollin7671 Its a 2000 Ford Taurus. Id saw the whole thing apart to make any repairs easier.
@@bowlerguy426 in the time he spent dicking around with the saw he could have taken out the 2 bolts on the other side, bungied the steering wheel and takin the steering shaft bolt out and just pulled the whole dash off.
You do an amazing job of breaking everything down step by step and make it easy to follow.... You saved me about $350 by showing me how to do this... Thank you so much. God bless
Nice!!
Thank you for posting this video, this needs to be done on our car and I feel so much better knowing we could do it ourselves versus spending $1300 for someone else to do it.
Very Nice!
$1,300 sounds WAY overpriced. Not sure what all that price includes though. On these cars if you just want the heater core replaced it's usually only $300-500. Me and my dad just did my GFs car. I took all the dash apart to make it easier. In total took us about 6 hours 30 minutes. I did also buy a new water pump (not that it needs one) and a radiator because if the heater core is getting clogged it's a good sign the radiator is pretty clogged to. So replace water pump and radiator also or the heater core will end up clogged in no time
I'll be doing mine tomorrow. I like the his video. It tells you everything you need to know. Nothing too difficult, just time consuming. I'll let you know how it turns out. Mine is a 2002 Taurus LX. With over head valves.
Nice!!
You sir, are a true professional, with the patience of a saint. Thanks for your time.
I was under the impression that this was a nightmare job and cost an arm and a leg to have it done at a shop. You made look a lot easier to do, Time commingling yes.. But worth saving my self 100"s of dollars! Thanks for the Video. Very helpful..
Great!!
Fantastic video ! Perfect step by step instructions !
Only thing different I did was to remove the intake manifold so that I could teach the heater core hoses and while I was at it, I changed those two difficult to reach spark plugs. Thanks for making this video
Just changed my heater core in my 1998 Taurus with the help of this video. Very good information, very good help.
Lol hes a clown. Never do it like this. My god if this is how shops do it then no wonder charge a grand. Go from under the dash dont have to do all this. Clown world mechanic.
As a Taurus owner video was well worth my time
Nice!!
Thank you for the video, im a very mechanicallu inclined person but i dont typically work on economy vehicles like this so watching your video made it so much quicker i got the job done in an hour amd a half
Nice!~!~
Hi Nathan. I had to replace the heater core in an 07, and your video saved me a lot of time and frustration. The only thing I did different, was that I took the plenum loose and moved it out of the way. My big hands couldn't get back in there otherwise.
Nice!
great video,i have an 04 with little heat,no good in NE,first like yourself i'll try and flush it,but i also bought a heater core just in case,this job doesn't look too bad,your secret of taking a break is a great one,you can't work smartly when you're frustrated,makes a world of difference,thx again for the video.
Happy Fixing!
can’t wait to fix mine. very good with your explanation i’m confident im able to do this now!
Nice!!
Thank u . U saved me 900 bucks on my kids car. Was not bad at all.
Cool! Just in time for winter!
Nathan Rohrbough
Not cool....Heat
I was very apprehensive about starting this project but it doesn't look too bad, Thanks Nathan
You can do it!!~~
Very well documented series of steps, without the "UMMS & AHHs " . As a suggestion, guys might loosen the top bolt on the driver's side & remove the bottom bolt only....that allows the dash to be supported on the loosened bolt as a pivot. You can either rest the passenger's side of the dash on the seat, or use your coffee can rest set up. I am not knocking the method shown in the video, merely indicating an option for supporting the removed dash. Damned good video...Well done!
Glad it helped!
Not all heroes wear capes. This is a very informative video.
Thanks!
I'm glad I found this video. I have to replace mine in a couple of days. Need heat to drive from Oklahoma to California. Thax for the very helpful video.
Nice...Don't speed ;)
Very well explained . Thank you for putting the time in to make this video . There's still a lot of old Tauruses in use today, mine is a 2002 with 270,000 miles, no engine work has been done on it except the spark plugs and some vacuum lines. But the exterior 😢...... Plenty of character at the bottom,Rust Belt area 😞
Thank you for taking the time to show use all the steps from big to small. This a 10 over the other u tub's regarding this problem. the other u tub left out some small but important pieces. and steps
Cool! ...Glad it helped you!
I know exactly what to do with my truck. I admit I put in stop leak. I'm so glad for your different camera angles.
Stop leak is like Drain-o, it NEVER works.
Working on an '03 Taurus heater core. Has center console. Great info in this video. Thanks for sharing.
Great!!
@@FixingWithPassion Thanks again for the tip of getting at the firewall hoses from the driver's side of the engine. I found that a pair of 5" Vise Grips worked very well. I had trouble getting the pax side hose off. So I looped a small rope around it and pulled it off. Eazy peezy! The '03 Taurus I'm working on has a center console. There is no small piece of metal to cut out on this car. However, the center console, (and cd changer if equipped), must be removed FIRST. For this configuration one MUST REMOVE the console. REMOVE THE CONSOLE BEFORE REMOVING ANY OTHER ITEMS FROM THE DASH. And NOTE: Once the center console is removed there is NOTHING to keep the dash from falling when the large bolts are removed. So be ready! Good luck!
Wow! That looked pretty easy, thank you for the video, you may have saved me $600. My only problem is having a bad back, it looks like a lot of bending & laying in the floor. But i think i will attempt it, like I said thank you sir & God bless, this was an excellent video.
Perfect video that worked well on my 1999 Gen 3. The Gen 3 doesn't have that bracket that needs to be cut off (mine didn`t at least). The blend door on mine didn't have that spring assembly/lever either (missing???). Getting the clamps off the heater core hose, and prying out the core was one of the harder thing to do!
Right! PITA!! Ugh
What a job!My mercury sable is now in the shop getting a new heater core.
Recently gotten a 99 sable gs and I'm thinking about replacing the heatercore ahead of time due to the low miles it has, 122k miles, least i dont need to pay 300-400$ to have someone do it 😂 thank you good sir!
Thanks for the information. It will make my job alot easier.
Thanks! I did learn something new today. Blessings to you.
Great video.....Saved me over $700.00 doing it myself!!!!
Flash G .....Thank! Comments like yours make my day!! Again thanks!
Great video! Nice camera action. First rate diy
Nice!
Thanks for this video!
It’s 1945 and I have a firefighter test 3hrs away at 800.
If I’m right, an it is the heater core, I’ll make it
I just replaced the spider web collection of heater hose on my 2001. A metal tube rusted through. Rockauto has the cheapest replacement part. I agree all the intake parts need to be removed, but there is more to be removed 1. remove the upper engine torque resistor and the plate bolted to the strut mount. 2. Remove bulk head connector and ground. 3. Cut the hoses and then remove the factory ford clamps. 4. Find the person you hate the most and give them the any and all factory Ford hose clamps you REPLACE.
Nice! Thanks!
in step 1, do you need to lift the engine with a jack?
Holy cow!!! Where do you find a mechanic with this much knowledge and patience!!??
Bro fr he's so calm I would have lost my shit just with the damn clamps 🤣
Straight to the point , very easily explained and easy to follow...
Great tutorial 👍👍👍
Thanks...let winter end soon!
Thank God first & thank you second for your gift that you continue to share with us ..
Just replaced mine, only took 3 hours total. Thanks!
Yeaaaa!!
Great video! Saved me a lot of work.
Nice!!
Awesome.
Thanks for the help.
Nice!!
I did mine without removing the dash for the colum shift models just cut off the bracket at the bottom it wont hurt anything it a slide right out
Nice!!! ;D
Sorry im new, what do you mean column shift? My shifter is in the center of the car. Would this be in the way or make this more difficult?
If you don't have access to something to cut the bracket, it bends very easily back and forth and snaps off. Another way is if you're strong, lift the dash up about 5 inches with your shoulder while you pull the heater core out. A jack would work too to lift it if you're not strong.
Good to know! Thanks!
right
Very nice job. You make it look easy. Thanks for sharing.
Thx man!
Beautiful detailed video
Nice!!
@@FixingWithPassion best video I've seen related to heater core removal on Ford Taurus
amazing narration. very detailed! 5 stars
Thanks! Have A Great day!
I have the same car. I was wondering if you have a video on how to fix cruise control? That'll be great thank you! : )
Sorry I don't. I'm sure someone has info on that on the internet.
nevermind ! hanks though!.. the only thing is i am stuck is on that rainwater gutter
darmn it won't come out !! : ( >:-O
Yes,
Before you write-off the heater core, please read this:
First I back flushed the heater core several times, going back & forth from outlet hose to inlet hose (outlet hose is the larger hose on passenger side). The water coming out was fairly clear, which didn't appear promising. Well, at least I thought I flushed it. When the vent register temperature didn't improve, & since both hoses were getting hot, I thought for sure, it was going to be a temp blend door, or actuator.
So, I googled it & found this video ( ruclips.net/video/vY4z7kFGVqo/видео.html ). I knew right away what I did wrong. I wasn't aware of the stinking by-pass hose! On the 2004 Sable/Taurus, it's a bear to see back there, so I didn't notice it.
So I flushed the H-core again, this time, with the by-pass hose pinched off, starting with the outlet hose and got a bunch of goopy rusty gunk coming out of the inlet hose. Went back & forth a few more times. Refilled system & now you can't leave your hand in front of the dash/vent registers for more than a few seconds. Thanks YZ250Yamaha969, you saved my marriage, (it's my wife's Sable).
The moral of this story: Do NOT skip the step of pinching off the by-pass hose, or don't bother trying to flush at all!
Thanks
I prefer disconnecting the steering shaft at the firewall from inside the car (make sure to hold the wheel straight with a bungee cord or something), and leaving the left side upper (near the door) bolt half way threaded in. Disconnect the three main plugs on the fuse box. Then you can pivot the dash all the way to the passenger seat and lay it there. This takes about the same amount of time as the cutting step.
;)
The radiator drain is under the black shroud. 6-7 bolts and it slides off...no big deal.
Thanks man!~!~
Good video Bro,
Watshed the 1st one about flushing then this one came on so I'm like may as well watch this one just in case, right? Thanks again !!
Never hurts ;)
I just got done with one thanks to this vid thank you for sharing
Nice!!
@@FixingWithPassion it was step by step only thing I found difficult was never showed anything about putting lines back on the new core it sure help me alot thanks again great job
depends which model of ford taurus. mine is a sel for a 2003 taurus. the heater core is tucked behind the radio. quite a bigger task. no need to remove the dash
Hmmmm... you do make it look easy, but the one I might get to do has a console. Hopefully it all comes apart easy!
Looks like I will be driving without heat this winter lol
O no!!
What does the yellow wire connect to in there mine is just hanging
it's for the vents or vaccum, so shoul be connected to another hose through the firewall or to the ac knob
Excellent video 👍
Thanks!
That metal arm behind the plastic accuator that you had to use a flathead screwdriver to pop the pin out. What is the full purpose of that? I just replaced my heater core and both plastic pieces that rest on the metal broke and where you pop that pin, that whole plastic piece snapped off. I was going to glue everything back but theres no room to get it in there. My 07 Taurus has a center counsel that runs all the way to the firewall that's blocking me. So I put everything back together without putting that piece on and everything is still working. I have cold and warm air coming out and I can choose from all the different vents and fan speeds. I'm just worried something's going to happen not having that piece in there. Thank you, your video helped me through the whole process of changing mine.
I did the same thing to my heater core... Only I fully removed the aluminum pipe from my heater core... Removing a hose and ended up with an extra part in my hand.
Good to know and for other to know Ideas on this Issue!
TVWXMAN32 yes. I think if we put some grease or some lube on the heater core pipes before putting on any flushing tubes, probably avoid damage. The rubber tube appears more soft, so it removes with less force. I always turn the rubber hoses with pliers after I remove the clamps and that breaks them loose to easily pull off.
Where did you get the heater core for 35
E-bays ;D
Great video
I was wondering what about the airbags.. Would they go off doing this??
I'd disconnect the battery ;)
I changed the heater core out and it works very well but after I started it up the car started acting strange and now it rocks back and forth in drive at a complete stop. Any idea of what this problem could be?
Yes put on better Disco music!
@@FixingWithPassion I bumped a hose off that's all it was
Fine job .now for me to get started lol
Oboy!!
I've replaced the water pump and thermostat on my 2001 ford tauras and it still keeps overheating and it's not a blown head gasket, theres no water in the oil or no water dripping from tail pipe so I'm hoping this will fix it.
O my!
Radiator is Failing, A common sign that something is wrong with the radiator is when your engine starts to overheat. This can be caused by a faulty thermostat. When a defective thermostat no longer opens, the engine will overheat and cause a breakdown. you want to get that fix or you'll blow a head gasket.
It doesn't have any heat either, it just blows cold air that's why I thought it might be the heater core. Had to take thermostat out of car to make it home with. When I had the thermostat in it would only run around 40 miles before it ran hot, after I took out the thermostat out drive the car 186 miles without overheating. It started overheating as soon as got back in driveway @chucky chuck @Nathan Rohrbough
I have zero heat in my 2000 taurus. Should i try flushing first, or just replace the core? did you make a video on how you flushed it?
Flush it first!
Thank you
Word!
Excellent video.
Thanks!
Where did you get the replacement part from?
E-bays
I think vice grips are the best option for clips
Nice camera work. I think you really did cover all the bases much appreciated!
Thanks!
Broke the tab on the upper lever that holds the metal bar on the pin (16:44) any idea how to repair or replace?
Lol also broke that tab... what did you end up doing
Now will this same video apply to a 2000 mercury sable?? Its pretty much identical to a taurus.
I have a 2000 ses and I don't have the egr valve on the top on the throttle body not the bottom and my heater core inlet/outlet are caddy corner
very nice video actually.
Thanks!
Thanks! Keep warm!
thank you kindly.
Thanks!
Shouldn't you disable the airbag system before working with the dash?
You can...But I was not near nor needed to disconnect any bag wires.
Blend door seams to be working correctly still
You really didn't need to take the glove compartment out. I did learn how to take the actuator arm off though. So yay
Nice!~
Icini Gaming/Vlogs i have same problem with heater core how replace it with out remove dash
Nice vid thanks for making it
Sniff n the Tears, Drivers seat; great song.
I know right....Makes me feel good to be old....haha
yes you want to remove the hoses at the block not the core, cracks it nearly every time , I just play it safe and flush it from the block end through the hoses...
If you haven't already trashed it, you should do a video showing the inside channels of the old core. I saw all of the sludge you got out when you flushed it and would imagine that even with that good flush there is still some remnant inside. Even if there isn't, I would be interested to compare it to the inside of a Renault core, which I did see in another video.
Good Idea.
very helpfull
I like!
Hi I sent you a message back in July about my heater core I followed your video and changed it. Once I changed it I had heat tell about 7 days ago now it is like barely warm air now. I filled my reservoir will coolant but still having problems I live in Michigan and now it's getting real cold. Like I said when I first replaced it had tons of heat now over past 7 days its blowing kinda warm but not hott like it was. This is a 2003 Ford Taurus
Please respond asap thanks alot.just not sure the next move
Maybe some derbies from the engine got washed into the heater core. You night have to do a heater flush just to make sure. Make sure it full of antifreeze.
I found when they flushed my car the didn't remove the weird overflow or bypass thing and clean it good or better yet replace it. if they don't less than half the hot water if any is reaching the core or going through the core, the water is going through the bypass and isn't really cleaning or getting to the core so it is still plugged and cold.. So after all that we found they just didn't flush the Taurus properly. It's the only car with that weird overflow/bypass. It has a tendency to rust and/or plug up . So they reconnect all back up after the flush and all the crud stuck up in the bypass goes back in an plugs the core right back up little by little. Cooler Cooler Cold again. Also you of problems. might get the car warmed up and crimp one outflow hose gently with your hand and have the friend see if it gets warm again, if it does it means the overflow is letting the hot water bypass the core. Your thermostat even new might be dis functioning or even placed in wrong or check for air in the line, there are videos about all of this. Ford charges 17 hours Labor approx to this. He told me $800. to $1250. crap I only paid $ $1000 for it, Loved My Taurus, its taken me many miles had it since 2002 it had 8000 miles on it so 16 years, nice ride for a good price! I've had 4 of them now, both will still go over 100 mph and smooth no problem! DO NOT BY PASS THE overflow, your car will overheat and you'll have problems!
How you doing sir. I need your advice because I’m literally going insane. So I have a 2002 Ford Taurus SE, bought it a year ago, never had heat. I’ll get to the point. I installed the following (all brand new) : thermostat and gasket, blend door actuator, flushed the heater core THEN replaced it completely with a brand new heater core, I still have no heat??? What is wrong with my car?? The only thing I can possibly think of is the heater core sensor which I don’t even know where it is. So help me please
I think its behind the core inducer blower for the pressure blaster. Look for a green wire. You can't miss it.
TVWXMAN32 and where exactly is that? Haha sorry. Also what would you conclude the problem is after I did what I did and still have no heat?
U might have head gasket problem
Melvin Riddick shit, seriously? Don’t I have to basically take apart the engine bay? Nothing leaks so idk if it’d be that
So I further inspected the blend door actuator, and whenever I turn the knob to the heat side, the lever that goes down kicks a bit and you can hear the door behind the whole unit actually slip, so the actual blend door, not the actuator, is faulty, I can’t find the part and I guess it’s called the plenum chamber or box or something, idk, any help??
great video!
My Taurus has a center console shifter, am I screwed? It looks hard enough to get it out without it being in the way. Anybody replace the heater core with the console?
Na...just take out the console...its not that hard....just take your time ;)
Great job. Thank you.
Have ever done the ac evaporater
Good Lord. Glad it's easy.
My 2001 Taurus stinks of burning oil when I turn the de froster and heater on. This happened very recently when the snow hit
Snow leaves
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Nice!~~
For those hose clamps.. nothing works as good as ratcheting hose clamp pliers. They get into tight spaces awkward angles no problem and squeeze down tight no risk of injury
on my 1997 mercury sable dohc motor ,, the person who own the car before me cut a circle hole , in the plastic cover below way easy to get to where the water spicket is, my thermal stat is below the car
Nice!
I wouldn't buy a car that's been tampered with like that.
I have a floor mount shift on my Taurus would I still be able to only take the dash out or would I have to remove the seats and middle column to access it. The reason I ask is I priced this and a mechanic told me this would take him all day and he would charge me like $600 to do it. I'm attempting to do this myself and save my $600. Since this car is a 2005 I'm not interested in spending that much money on it.
I think if you take out the middle column you should be fine. Just take your time...you'll be happy when ts finished....especially this winter!
Much easier to use a Dremel to cut around the core on the outside firewall. Then replace it with another piece of sheet metal.
Mfr. engineers don't think when designing, also works for AC system core and no leaks. That way the whole AC can be removed and bench tested or replaced new. Some Fords had such systems for the computer, why not the heater and AC cores?
Right!
Do I need take intake manifold? I can't reach left lower hose.
All good
Nice!
Hey Nathan, is it possible for you to put close captioning on this video for those who can’t hear, please?
Sure!~
Nathan Rohrbough
Thank you so much! I work on my car and house a lot, so captioning this this will absolutely help me (and I’m sure others as well) a lot! My heater core went out last winter and it was brutal... and I just don’t have the cash to dish out to get it repaired before this winter 😑 Thank you, I really appreciate it!
nigga please. i know you want to look at hes lips. we dont got time for dat mate
Great video. Thanks so much.
How long did this job take you?
1hr 20mins.