2015 Honda Forza 300 (NSS300) Oil Change
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- One of several maintenance videos I offer, this one is on changing the oil, oil filter and crush washer on my 2015 Honda Forza 300 (NSS300).
Oil type: HP4M Pro Honda 4 stroke oil (SAE 10W 30)
Oil Filter: 15410-MFJ-D01
Crush washer: For 12mm bolt
Oil Filter wrench: 65mm 14 flute
Oil Capacity:
With NO oil filter change: 1.2 liters (1.3 US qt, 1.1 Imp qt)
With oil filter change: 1.4 liters (1.5 US qt, 1.2 Imp qt)
After complete disassembly: 1.7 liters (1.8 US qt, 1.5 Imp qt)
Torque settings:
Oil Filter: 26 N-m (2.7 kgf-m, 19 lbf-ft)
Drain plug: 25 N-m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 lbf-ft)
Where to purchase in USA:
Oil: www.rockymount...
Oil filter: www.revzilla.c...
Crush Washer: www.ereplaceme...
Oil filter wrench (65mm 14 flute): www.amazon.com...
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#hondaforza300 #hondaforzaoilchange #hondaforzaoil
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As a mechanic of 33 years I have never seen anyone tension an oil filter with a torque wrench before LOL !
@Down Under Thunder - Haha. If there’s a torque spec and I have a torque wrench, it’s gonna happen! Cheers.
You'll never see a mechanic do it...
1/2 to 3/4 turn after gasket makes contact with surface. Thats what I always do.
As a RUclips watcher of 3 years. I have seen it many times
Follow the link for a full repair manual with tech support.
www.cyclepedia.com/online-manuals/cyclepedia-honda-online-service-manuals/honda-nss300-forza-scooter-online-service-manual/
You can purchase a Haynes manual for about $30.
Thanks for this Video . Ive been doing my own servicing on my bikes and cars , what i can do myself for the last 40 years , and i have never torqued up a oil filter or a sump plug , and have never had a leak , just nipped up once they made contact with my hand - filter , and ratchet - sump plug and i have always filled the oil filter up with new oil prior to re-fitting , even when its a horizontal screw on type . I would rather spill a bit of oil out while screwing it on , rather than re-starting the bike dry , just my 2 cents worth ,
Take care .
@Brett Wicks - Thanks for the comment! Yes, several other people commented the same. I just wanted to illustrate what the specs are, I assume people will tweak the process to suit their needs and what has worked for them in the past (if they had any experience). Interesting story, when I was younger, before doing my own oil changes, I took my car to one of those quick oil-change businesses in my area. A few hours after the change I notice oil leaking from the filter. Took it back to that business and the guy who worked on my car said it was the first time he's ever seen that happen. I watched him work on another persons car and noticed he was cranking down hard on the oil filter using a ratchet wrench. No torque wrench, just by feel. WAAAAY over-tightened. Moral of the story, better to have less torque than more on those filters Cheers!
. Hey, theres nuthin wrong with doing things the right way by specified torque values. Never apologize for it, regardless of what anybody says. I'm 64 & also have done all my own cars, trucks & MCs since 8 yrs old. Shortcut habits eventually cause mistakes, nobody's exempt regardless of prideful claims to the contrary.
0:49 - what a wonderful sound!
i agree
yummy
Mmmm.. burrrrrrrrito! :D
Even better than popping open a beer!
I use a strap wrench, that fits any size oil filter, and as someone else said no need for torque wrench just a little more than hand tight on the filter,and drain plug, I turn the washer over to use again and tighten with wrench.
I have been servicing my Silverwing 600 for the last nine years
@@roygoodwin1259 - Thanks for the feedback and sharing. I used to re-use the crush washers until I had one split on me unknowingly. Found an oily mess the next morning. Decided it wasn't worth re-using for the low cost and just buy in bulk. Thanks again!
Remember to put a little bit of oil (old or new, doesn't matter) around the rubber seal of the new oil filter so that it seals properly with the mating surface on the engine.
@Dan Paveley - Thanks for the comment. You’re absolutely correct. Some folks have also commented to fill the new oil filter with some oil, not to put on dry. Cheers!
One tiny little piston, working so hard, means oil changes every 2K. BTW, the Super Tech ST6607 @ $2.97 is an EXCELLENT alternative to the "re-mortgage your house" Honda OEM.
@Michael Landis - Thanks for the tip! Will have to check out the Super Tech on the next service. Cheers! 👍
Yup 2K for me too. @1.5 qt, it's a no brainer.
Good job and very good quality video, thank you
@angelillo02 - Thank you for watching and the comment!
Merci ,vers good vidéo.
@eanpaulfrappa6444 - You're welcome, thank you for watching and commenting!
Thanks for this 👍🇦🇺
@wesleycardinal8869 - You bet, thanks for watching and commenting. Ride safe! 👍
You can never go wrong using a genuine Honda filter - but you CAN spend way too much money for it. After quite a few years, Walmart has finally caught on, and their Super Tech ST6607 is $2.97 every day. It has a 10K service life and filters at 99%. It's an exact cross - it's an exceptional value - HOWEVER - it's blue!
No worries, I have a good Sharpie that will take care of that!
@@zooskifilms Not just me, brother. There are MANY forums out there whose members use the Super Tech products. You'll become a believer for shut.
Thats pretty clean oil your changing great video mate .
Yeah, it was the first oil change at 600 miles. The next one should be a little more toasty. Cheers.
Well at least you know its done ,that is one hell of a drain plug really long ,i dont think i have ever replaced a crush washer on anything i have owned but it is a good idea being new and cheap as anyway .
Yeah I've had car crush washers crack and then leave me a nice mess. So I change them every time now.
tanks from France
@fr da - Thank you for watching! I love France!
2 or 3 dollars apiece for crush washers??? you can get a 10-pak on ebay for a couple bucks including postage. Yes, I used them. Prob came off the same assembly line. Also, Shell Rotella T6 has become the industry standard motorcycle oil - at $5.50 a quart ($22.50 a gallon at WM). Yes, it's 5W40, but your scoot will love it.
Thanks for the comment and information! I guess someone beat it in to me (or scared me) into always buying OEM. Good to hear you've used after-market with good results, I will certainly have to give them a try.
@@zooskifilms I compared the ST6607 and the identical (diff color) Fram product side-by-side at wallyworld and they appear to be identical products. I was amazed at the quality and longevity of the ST6607 for the price. It fits MANY Honda motorcycles.
@@michaellandis2144 Ok, sold! I'll give the ST6607 a shot on my next oil change. My concern about after-market filters is flow restriction over time. But if you've had good luck with this I'm willing to give it a try. Thanks again!
Did you notice a strong odor of gasoline in your oil? I do with mine. Thats why I am changing the oil at a little over 4,000 miles just to be safe. I was told this is causing by fuel leaking into crankcase over time, especially when you do use it much. I am going to attempt to change it today. It looks easier than my 2 zuma scoooters, one of whicu I had a bit of gas in oil. I bought some fuel cut offs to install so hopefully this doesnt happen again. I like your video. Makes it easy for simpletons to understand. BTW, I have a 2014, which is pretty much identicle to yours.
@opryhopeful - Thanks for the comment and question. I haven't smelled any gas odor when changing the oil, but will definitely look for it on the next oil change. I try not to let the Forza sit for longer than 3-4 weeks without riding, just to keep everything lubricated. How many miles on yours? I also have a 2014 in Thailand, love them both. Thanks again and ride safe!
I have a little over 4,000 miles. Gonna take it out in a little bit for a little ride. I have a 2012 zuma 50, 2013 zuma 125, and a 2014 honda forza nss300 abs. I plan on checking/adjusting the valves in my 2 zumas real soon. Cant trust the shop. I paid them to check valves and clean/replace my air and tranny filters a few years back, but realized that didn't happen when I took them out to inspect them and all the bolts still had the threadlock from factory on them. Gotta learn to be a mechan. I have setvice manuals for all 3. My 50 has almost 1,100 miles on it. Not a lot for beng almost 10 years old. Haven't had time to ride them plus I had some major surgery a while back that made it impossible. 🙂
@@BigDsHomestead - Yeah, I prefer to do the repair and maintenance myself, just so I know it was done correctly. Had a few cases where I got myself into a little trouble, but I chalk those off to gaining experience. One learns much more when they make mistakes! Hope you're feeling better these days and able to get out more. Ride safe!
I read your comment, just before changing the oil on my 2015 Forza 300. When I was refilling the oil I notice a gasoline like smell, then realized it was the new oil (Red Line 10w30 full-synthetic ester formula for cars). The old oil, which was the factory original oil (since this was the 1st oil change) didn't put off any noticeable odor.
Hi sir how could I buy a oil filter removel cup key?I got a one bigger than oil filter😢😢😢
Thanks
@deesh620 - Hello, the filter wrench size is 65mm, 14 flutes. Hope this helps!
I asked the question why does Honda want to use 10W-30 Oil that is not Energy Conserving on Bob is the Oil Guy Forum - Honda did some testing years ago and discovered automotive 10W30's with a lower HTHS than 3.5 cause certain parts in a motorcycles transmission to wear out prematurely. Yes, I know you don't have a sequential transmission nor a wet clutch like a lot of motorcycles do. But Honda feels that a scooter or motorcycle oil should be on the thick side of a 10W30. Many Euro auto makers are in the same camp for their vehicles regarding the HTHS number. Also others thought Energy Conserving Oil would cause a wet clutch to slip.
Not sure if changing the oil more frequently helps the situation. I usually change once a year minimum, with about 2,000 miles driven in that period.
Guaranteed that full synthetic auto oil will cause clutch slippage high % of the time. After 50 years of wrenching on 60+ MCs, you find out its not worth it. Here it doesn't matter but superior lubrication in a tiny 4 stroke single is smart. Change every 2k regardless
Please add an Amazon link for the oil filter wrench.
@snufflehound - There are lots of options, just search for one that is 65mm with 14 flutes. Otherwise try this one: www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W54117-Flutes-Filter/dp/B00EDT7ZQ6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=OMHFB0ZQHJ4R&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ENxgJvvFuytCxe9LJHN9-KvG3HdX76KTrBu61vOJ9JORsci_P8HTEJb1BQWHqWMIhBrp1_DrMBJ2UFv4oJE5Nj8rXhFLihiz4PvW7YpaCNRnwK7m59_zGFe6utayxbzITm8yf0XYjdQxYWf17AbJ954WlrBWSQy23CAN-Jzxszj9YbLGd9pmzzSHrXuDXih8zKe4bhtU-2XPe70NQN3zxRKlkYERiT8YFi4GJEZ2a0Y.xgzRYsKLlgGjBNi320a3CT7PG1zWeC-SFbqqldz_bUg&dib_tag=se&keywords=65mm%2B14%2Bflute%2Boil%2Bfilter%2Bwrench&qid=1717175264&sprefix=65mm%2B14%2Bflute%2Boil%2Bfilter%2Bwrench%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-3&th=1
00:51me after taco tuesdays
Samere here after Thai Tuesdays!
Will you be doing a Final Drive oil change video as well? I find your tutorials very helpful!
@NIGHTBOAT - Thanks for the comment! Yes, it is on the list of videos to make, hope to get that finished within the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned!
I like Honda forza
Yes, me too! The only issue I have left to deal with is the seat won't stay open on its own. Need to figure out how to fix that!
Hello in my (Italian) owner manual the torque for nut and filter is 25 and 26 Nm , why you use 18 and 19 Nm ?
He is probably using american ft/lb, no Nm
Yes, that is correct, ft-lbs. I will be sure to state both units in the future. Thanks!
How much nm touque for the oil bolt...
@Intan Suhaimi - Drain plug: 25 N-m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 lbf-ft). All details are listed in the Description, just need to click the Show More button to see the full Description.
Clean job, finally someone is using gloves while doing an oil change video. Did you put synthetic or mineral oil in it? I believe the drain plug is 12 mm, that's what's on PCX and they look very similar.
It was a synthetic blend, based on oil specs in the manual.
could I use the GN4 MA oil in the final drive gear ?
ivan paraggio - the service manual states you should use HP4M Pro Honda 4 stroke oil (SAE 10W 30). Same as the engine oil. Torque setting for filler, check and drain bolt is 13 Nm. Oil capacity is 0.28 liters if draining only. If you are disassembling the final drive the oil capacity is 0.30 liters. I will have to make a video on this! Good luck!
Thanks! Just did the break-in oil change on my 2015 Forza 300. Your video was super-helpful.
After not being able to find a decently priced full synthetic 10w30 MB Scooter oil, I did a bit of research (FYI - don't trust my research), and decided to go with a full synthetic car oil. I chose Red Line 10w30 full synthetic car oil, which has very high molybdenum levels. Red Line does have a motorcycle specific 10w30 with 130 PPM of MolyB; I didn't see an MB rating on either the car or motorcycle oil. I'm guessing (based on their 5w30 stats) the Red Line car oil has four times as much MolyB as their motorcycle oil. Will it make a difference, reduce friction, increase MPG, or mess things up? I have know idea, but was curious enough to give it a try.
@OkieBobby - Thanks for watching and for the comment! Actually I plan on switching to something along the lines of what you did, going with an off the shelf synthetic oil and then add a moly additive (most likely Liquid Moly brand - also can find everywhere here near me). For the synthetic oil, I'll look for the highest performance oil I can find, the Forza and motorcycles in general run at higher rpm's compared to an automobile. From the Liquid Moly website they recommend adding 5% moly to the engine oil, so that's what I will follow. If you added more I don't see that as an issue. Normally the only time you don't want to add too much moly is in bikes with wet clutches, where too much moly might cause some clutch engagement issues. Anyway, the price for the Honda HP4M (and with shipping costs) is getting ridiculous, so this is a great alternative. Please do report back how things work out with your blend, either everything working fine or better or if any unintended consequences. Cheers!
Hello, from the city of Madrid, Spain! Friend I love your video, it is very well explained and very well recorded, you are the best. CAN YOU MAKE A VIDEO OF HOW TO MAKE THE HONDA FORZA 125CC 2019 MOTORCYCLE RUN MUCH MORE THAN 120KH? ,,, Do you know if there is any type of kit or way to put the motorcycle at its highest speed. Thank you for your wonderful attention
FÌRE MELKÌSS - Hello! Thank you for the comments. There is a way to increase the maximum speed of the Forza I have, I will do some research and make a video. I hope it will be the same for your 2019! Saludos!
I just ordered AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle oil for my Forza..
AMSOIL has a nice order site.
Let me know how it works out, I used Pro Honda HP4M when I did my last oil change. I need to do another before the end of this year.
How often should I change oil on my forza
The service manual states first time after 600 miles or 1 month, then at every 8,000 miles or once a year, whichever occurs first. I tend to do mine every 18 months.
@@zooskifilms wow I've been changing way too often. Thank you
nice vid., can you make one adjusting the rear suspension. thanks
Hi Chris - I accidentally deleted your comment about making a video on the final drive oil. I didn't actually know that existed! I don't see that in the manual. Anyway, I will check it out. I also will make one for removing the rear.
What size oil filter remover?
Два колеса - 65mm, 14 flutes
Thank you very much!
It's a 12 mm socket for the drain plug. Also can i have your old oil? It's cleaner than the shit that i bought at Honda!
I'll hold on to it next time for you. In Thailand the dealer refuses to change the oil or filter if the oil looks good or if you don't hit the mileage threshold.
I noticed european (Italian) model of Forza do not have parking brake!
Neither does the Thai model. At least in 2015.
If from UK American Quarts are different than UK Quarts ?
Nick The Chef - Assuming the U.K uses an Imperial Quart, 1 Imperial Quart is equivalent to 1.20095 US liquid quarts.
Yes i had to drain 300ml back out, i typed in conversion 1.5 US Quart which said 1.7l but it should have been 1.4l 🙄 but all done now, thanks for the video.
What size is the crush washer? Thanks.
Looks like 12mm, bought it on Amazon under this description:
Honda Washer Drain Plug 12MM Genuine Parts 94109-12000
1.5 quartz ?
@Andrew Holland - Yes, 1.5 quarts with an oil filter change. If you don't change the filter it will need 1.3 quarts. Cheers!
@@zooskifilms thank you sir...
When do we need to change the oil filter ?
- thanks
Manual says replace both oil and filter at initial 600 miles (1000km), then at 8000 miles (12,800km), and at every 8000 mile interval thereafter. Or, at 12 months, whichever occurs first (mileage vs time).
wow 8000? how often do you change?
Zheng SUn - Minimum once a year! Which is about 3000 miles.
Is this the 300 cc?
Jimmy Crackerlacking - technically a 270cc, but seems most people refer to it as a 300.
@@zooskifilms 🙄
Is a Forza 2014 the same?
stuffy321 - I'm fairly certain it is, the service manual shows it as a 2014-2015 manual, so I assume the same. If there are any differences they'll note them. When I get back home I can check it to see if the oil filter and oil drain plug is the same.
Nhawesse forzza 70 80 2015
Thanks for the part number info!
Oil Filter should Never be put on DRY!!! you should pre fill them with Oil and let it soak in a Dry start up is NOT good for Engines. Don't do what this guy did!!!
Gary West - probably wouldn't hurt, but a messy procedure with a horizontal filter. And I'm not convinced it makes that much a difference. I've seen a guy drive a car without oil and it took a good 20 minutes to finally seize up. There's enough oil in there to keep things lubed for 5 seconds after changing with a dry filter.
No Not messy at all if you do it right. OK here is how I change oil, pull the drain plug while the oil is draining I start filling the new Oil filter I start off by filling till full then let it sit, the paper filter inside the oil filter will absorb all the oil in it then fill again about half or less, let that have a couple minutes to absorb that oil in if you can see oil in the bottom of the oil filter drain it back into your new oil if Not Put more in the oil filter let it sit again you are trying to get the paper filter inside the oIl filter to take on/absorb as much oil as possible, But Not have any oil puddled up in the bottom of the filter so when you turn the filter on its side as if you were installing it NO oil comes out at all. After the New Oil filter has taken on all the oil it can with NO oil puddled in the bottom of the filter, remove the old oil filter, install drain plug and new Oil filter. add oil to proper oil height. Done
Ok, thanks, I'm going to give this method a try on the next oil change.
Gary, i know what you're saying about pre-filling the filter, I've been taught to do the same thing. Having said that, the owners manual (for what it's worth) says to do exactly what's done on the video. Reference p. 69; might be different if manual is tailored to a different region, but see under Oil Change. In any case, I doubt any harm will be done, if adequate amount of oil is running through - eventually the filter will be saturated. The manual does say put in 1.4 L if changing both oil and filter, and only 1.2 L if not changing the filter. Not sure why it makes the distinction because at the same time it says that you should always change the oil AND the filter together (see under scheduled maintenance). That's my 2 cents.
Max Prytyka ช┬─┬ノ( º _ ºノ)