For anyone watching this; The ONLY things you MUST remove to get at the CV shaft is the sway bar link and the aft shock mounting screw and threaded flange(which pops right off/on). No need to remove the entire strut assembly whatsoever(at least on a 2008). Clean up all surfaces and coat them with either an anti seize, Fluid Film or grease to prevent corrosion. Use anti seize on the axle splines as well. Most are just better off replacing the sway bar link so you may as well do it now. Just tighten the inner bolts down tight. They're not a critical torque spec. The big nut IS a critical speck so indeed use the torque wrench on it though. I did mine including a new bearing in about an hour each side.
I was able to do it not removing the sway bar link Take off bolt holding speed sensor and brake line, move tie rod and upper ball joint out of hub, I was able to work the bar side of the cv joint over the sway bar link (reason to remove bolt) and pull cv axle down and out, reverse is same push back in make sure the shaft is on the left side of of the shock bolt so it hangs down when you put splines on (passenger side reference) once splines in just move hub up and get bolts started for cv mount and put upper ball joint in to hold in place than tighten everything back up accordingly
Thanks Matt! I've got to do this soon since I can hear my CV joints growling. Another video shows the job with the truck up on a hoist. I'm glad to see you can do it on the concrete too. That's how I'll have to do it. It doesn't look too hard for one person to do. I'll probably replace the struts when I replace the axles. Thanks again. Good job on the video!
I didn't touch anything except the strut. I removed the entire strut assembly. Gives you tons of room to work. I had some kind of aluminum spacer underneath my strut aswell. Had to use a pry to get the strut back in place. Wasn't a Hassel. A little annoying 🤣 but not crazy. I torqued my cv axle nut to 185ft/lbs. ( good enough lol). Makes enough room. My cv axle boot didn't tear or rip, the actual metal band fell off somewhere 🤔. Never had that happen before. I also had to use a long pry bar and stick it in between the wheel studs to stop then wheel from rotating. Good job guy 🤙
Matt, you amaze me. Both of Your Grandpas would both be so proud of you doing this work yourself. I hope your video helps other people and saves them a ton of money in labor charges haha. Good Job!
Great video. One of the most detailed I've seen on replacing CV joint. I tried replacing mine but could not get my strut off. I loosened the stabilizer bolt but the control arm did not drop.
Jay Hoover there are few more connections attached at the A-arm and make sure the brake caliper is removed. Also above the strut there are 3 bolts to loosen.
It's real easy. Once the spring is out, the control arm falls down and you can pull out the axel. One thing I didn't show in the video is preventing the axle from spinning while you loosen and tighten the bolts that connect it to the differential. Put a screw driver in the top of the rotor to keep it from spinning.
i have a weird inch spacer on the strut and not sure how to take it out, I'm thinking I might be able to just take the toe link bar?(bolt right of the axle) off and fit the new cv axle in that way without touching the strut. It look to be enough room to fit in but will there be any repercussion as to leaving the strut in ? thanks
I'm not sure if you've completed what you've mentioned. If you're talking about what I think its a washer type of thing located behind the 1 & 7/16 in nut, behind the dust cover. If that is what you're talking about, your new CV shaft should have one already on it.
Love it! This is real world work like what I’m going to have to do in the next few weeks. How many miles on your truck at the time you noticed the boot was split? Where did you get your new CV axles? Thanks.
You should tell the size of all the sockets you used. Im sure that would be helpful to people especially with the big socket that went to your axle. But other wise excellent job.
Good job man! Very precise very informative! Your delivery is a bit monotone and robotic tho🤣😆🤣 That isnt necessarily a bad thing with a how to video like this tho! It Honestly felt like it was easier to understand your speech and Directions because of that!!! Im giving u 4.5 of a possible 5! 🤣😂😆😂
Dustin Macahonic slide the top in first matching up the bolts with the holes and thread the nuts on lightly. Then slide the bottom part of the strut into place and tighten everything down. It was vary simple.
Ethan Hatch I’m not sure where you’re talking about. If you’re talking about inside the boots then yes. Otherwise you shouldn’t have to grease anything else.
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For anyone watching this; The ONLY things you MUST remove to get at the CV shaft is the sway bar link and the aft shock mounting screw and threaded flange(which pops right off/on). No need to remove the entire strut assembly whatsoever(at least on a 2008). Clean up all surfaces and coat them with either an anti seize, Fluid Film or grease to prevent corrosion. Use anti seize on the axle splines as well. Most are just better off replacing the sway bar link so you may as well do it now. Just tighten the inner bolts down tight. They're not a critical torque spec. The big nut IS a critical speck so indeed use the torque wrench on it though. I did mine including a new bearing in about an hour each side.
Really? There's room to it not like this?
I was able to do it not removing the sway bar link
Take off bolt holding speed sensor and brake line, move tie rod and upper ball joint out of hub, I was able to work the bar side of the cv joint over the sway bar link (reason to remove bolt) and pull cv axle down and out, reverse is same push back in make sure the shaft is on the left side of of the shock bolt so it hangs down when you put splines on (passenger side reference) once splines in just move hub up and get bolts started for cv mount and put upper ball joint in to hold in place than tighten everything back up accordingly
Correction, driver side remove the link haha
Yea unless someone has put a level kit on the bottom of the strut then u have to remove whole steering knuckle
Thanks Matt! I've got to do this soon since I can hear my CV joints growling. Another video shows the job with the truck up on a hoist. I'm glad to see you can do it on the concrete too. That's how I'll have to do it. It doesn't look too hard for one person to do. I'll probably replace the struts when I replace the axles. Thanks again. Good job on the video!
Thanks!
I didn't touch anything except the strut. I removed the entire strut assembly. Gives you tons of room to work. I had some kind of aluminum spacer underneath my strut aswell. Had to use a pry to get the strut back in place. Wasn't a Hassel. A little annoying 🤣 but not crazy. I torqued my cv axle nut to 185ft/lbs. ( good enough lol). Makes enough room. My cv axle boot didn't tear or rip, the actual metal band fell off somewhere 🤔. Never had that happen before. I also had to use a long pry bar and stick it in between the wheel studs to stop then wheel from rotating. Good job guy 🤙
Matt, you amaze me. Both of Your Grandpas would both be so proud of you doing this work yourself. I hope your video helps other people and saves them a ton of money in labor charges haha. Good Job!
PS. I want to see your tractor :)
Great video. One of the most detailed I've seen on replacing CV joint. I tried replacing mine but could not get my strut off. I loosened the stabilizer bolt but the control arm did not drop.
Jay Hoover there are few more connections attached at the A-arm and make sure the brake caliper is removed. Also above the strut there are 3 bolts to loosen.
All you have to do is remove the sway bar link and pry the sway bar up for 07-09 models. No need to take strut out or unbolt anything
Cool thanks for the video. I just changed mine on my 08 Tahoe
Nice video! I'll be using this knowledge!
Thanks!
Very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for the video I will be doing my driver side in my 09 Sierra just waiting for my parts from rockauto
Thanks, good job. My next project.
It's real easy. Once the spring is out, the control arm falls down and you can pull out the axel. One thing I didn't show in the video is preventing the axle from spinning while you loosen and tighten the bolts that connect it to the differential. Put a screw driver in the top of the rotor to keep it from spinning.
i have a weird inch spacer on the strut and not sure how to take it out, I'm thinking I might be able to just take the toe link bar?(bolt right of the axle) off and fit the new cv axle in that way without touching the strut. It look to be enough room to fit in but will there be any repercussion as to leaving the strut in ? thanks
I'm not sure if you've completed what you've mentioned. If you're talking about what I think its a washer type of thing located behind the 1 & 7/16 in nut, behind the dust cover. If that is what you're talking about, your new CV shaft should have one already on it.
wouldnt it be easier to undo the sway bar links and turn them out of your way
Love it! This is real world work like what I’m going to have to do in the next few weeks. How many miles on your truck at the time you noticed the boot was split? Where did you get your new CV axles? Thanks.
Alan Lutz it was around 50K. I believe that driving it off road through brush cut up the boots and then driving through water washed out the grease.
Very helpful
Thanks!
Good job 👍
awhllot offtshs4ya thanks
You should tell the size of all the sockets you used. Im sure that would be helpful to people especially with the big socket that went to your axle. But other wise excellent job.
36mm
If it has the garbage levelling kit it really helps to pull caliper and pop upper ball joint. But then jack needs to be under lower control arm.
I have a leveling kit and I’m pretty sure it’s garbage because I keep going through them , would a cv axle spacer help ?
Good job man! Very precise very informative! Your delivery is a bit monotone and robotic tho🤣😆🤣 That isnt necessarily a bad thing with a how to video like this tho! It Honestly felt like it was easier to understand your speech and
Directions because of that!!! Im giving u 4.5 of a possible 5! 🤣😂😆😂
What size bolts are those?
Hey man, how hard was it to reinstall bottom side on strut, did you need a special tool to compress your strut to do it? Or can you muscle it
Dustin Macahonic the strut comes out all in one piece. Super easy but maybe 25-30 pounds.
@@60acresofwhatever I know it's all one piece, but is it easy to get back in? Onces the top side is fastened, is it easy to pop the bottom side on?
Dustin Macahonic slide the top in first matching up the bolts with the holes and thread the nuts on lightly. Then slide the bottom part of the strut into place and tighten everything down. It was vary simple.
Thanks!!
You’re welcome. Let me know how it went.
Did you have it in 4 wd my CV is spinning free I am about to take it off
2wd
I wish the strut was that easy to get out
What size socket on the axle nut. Outer
It’s in the description incase you can’t find this reply later but it’s a 1 7/16in or 36mm socket
Do the new ones come greased?
Ethan Hatch I’m not sure where you’re talking about. If you’re talking about inside the boots then yes. Otherwise you shouldn’t have to grease anything else.
Dang it boy that dust cover about whipped you bud!
Bo Mason yea it did. Couldn’t get a flat head behind it
No se quita todo eso solo se saca la flecha y ya
is this 4x4?
Yep. 4x4 Z71
my god, you must work at an auto parts store.
Lol
what size socket do you need to remove the big nut on the end of the shaft?
I think it is a 1 1/2in? I'll find the socket and update you.
joeshmoe12301230 it's a 1 and 7/16 in socket
60 Acres of Whatever thank you sir!
joeshmoe12301230 36mm
Joel Armstrong copy that. Thanks.
Compressors to small
Hawaii custom fishing rods sure was. I was using a friends garage. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have.
Like a rock ... not really
Not even close!
Sorry but I skip the video many times