Massive thank you. I built this. Took my time as I really enjoyed the challenge. Also researched and built the control box from scratch. A really enjoyable project (especially now that everything works !!!). 2.2k water cooled spindle, contactless limit switches etc. Cuts Aluminium a treat. The fact that you showed yourself building it with everyday tools did the trick for me. Big thanks.
At 2:20 safety first, stop the machine and proceed. Can get new aluminium bar not fingers 😁. At 4:55 there is loose fitting with the braket fixed to the sliding nut (dont know exactly what its called)
Excellent - this video is quite old now - any update on the machining ability for aluminium - I'm considering making my own CNC milling machine however I'm not clear if I will make the moving gantry type like yours or a moving bed as in conventional milling machines .. any advice welcome
I didn't see this machine specifically machining aluminium but having built a few similar machines you can get good results with quality carbide endmills designed for machining aluminum and with good machinable grades of aluminium, although I do baby it with 0.5mm - 1.0mm cuts per pass, its a hobby machine for me and it's automated so I've never been worried with how long a job takes. My goto grades are Cast 5083 (tool plate) and 6061 T6511. Either can produce good results in aluminium it just depends on the design, build it heavy and rigid and you should be right with either.
Thank you for the response. I noticed you had good guality ball screws by the marking on the ball nut , not the red or green dot like the cheap ones . I found a Hiwin dist. In N/A . Thanks . Nice job
Really enjoy watching your build! It is shaping up to be a very impressive machine! Nice skills on the various shop tools. Do keep us posted as she comes to life.
Speedy machining by using benchtop jigsaw and overall design is good! Good work! Only one thing, the angle bracket for the two x-axis ballscrew nuts are not strong enough.... may need improvement...
It's roughly about a AUD 3K build (complete and running), but you can easily cut that down if you can source cheaper components, I went sort of mid tier on components so there are definitely some areas you can save money.
They were from an ebay seller "silvers-123" but just having a look they don't seem to have much left only a few odd ballscrew sizes. They were made in Taiwan ballscrews, and were much better quality than what the sellers from china were selling but they did cost twice as much.
I want a metalwork shed in my house, and woodwork. Looks expensive, but well worth the investment (time and money). These parts are not easy to source in my part of the world. Can these hobbyist shops make it down to Eswatini (stop with the SA near misses).
Do you have a BOM (Bill of Material) of the different parts you are/were using, such as types of extruded aluminium, linear rails and lead screws. Furter more is it possible to have a meassurable CAD drawing??
There are some sketchup drawings on the description, they'll give you a good idea on what you need for the build, Extrusion is Profile 30 and Profile 40 (40x40, 40x120 and 60x120), Linear rails are standard Hiwin HGH linear rails/slides, and standard 1605 ballscrews.
Thanks for this video, I'm very curious, how sturdy is this machine when cutting aluminium, if you have tried it? Is there any particular part you would do differently next time?
I'm waiting on some endmills and collets to start cutting aluminium, the single flute 1/8" endmill I have isn't really suited for aluminium. I'd change the Z axis ballnut mount, and instead of printing the Y axis motor mount just buy one off the shelf, I've got 2 nema 24 mounts coming from china (cast aluminium) and they only cost $30AUD shipped. If you have tooling for the mill already I'd manually machine the plates, I think with a few endmills and a boring bar most plates could be machined from aluminium. If you're starting with aluminium plates I'd also direct couple the X axis motor mount like the Y axis, the only reason I mounted the Y axis with a belt is because there wouldn't have been much support for the stepper motor.
I work, assembled machines with the same structure, only they have, a tank between the rails. My problem has been aligning the rails on each side, to ensure parallelism and squareness. The rails are located at a distance of 3 meters from each other. Do you know any technical and effective alignment system. Well, I do it empirically with a tensioned steel wire.
Any high torque nema 23/24 motor will work with this design, even mid nema 23 range will work like 270 oz-in, I used Nema 24 400oz-in steppers on the X and Y axis and Nema 23 270oz-in stepper on the Z axis. I don't have any pictures of the controller setup but it consisted of a Gecko G540, 48VDC power supply, & Delta 1.5KW VFD, a pretty basic setup.
It is kind of hard to figure out what dimension you used for the Y axis extrusion. I just found what I am hoping is 45x180 of the 80/20 extrusion. I haven't taken delivery of it. Only a picture so far with a few measurements. So I am holding my breath wondering what exactly I spoke for :-) Watching your build with great interest naturally. Best regards and thanks or taking the time to do all the camera angles :-)
Wow, this is the exact kind of machine I had in mind for my first build! HGR rails, balls screws and all! In your opinion, what's necessary HGR15 or HGR20 Rails? Also, are what are the advantages of HGH blocks over HGW blocks? 🤔
Why did you choose to build a moving gantry rather that fixed gantry moving table? The reason I ask is because in my 20+ years of programming and operating CNC routers I have found the fixed gantry machines to give less chatter. I see that at least one stepper motor has a shaft out the back put an encoder on it and go to a closed loop system.
The goal was to keep it light weight and as small as possible to keep it portable-ish, a fixed gantry machine would be much longer to keep the same working area and would be much heavier, if it were a fixed gantry machine I'd probably be working with a welded steel structure instead of a bolt together aluminium frame. An encoder would be nice but it just adds to the cost and stepper motors have never given me any trouble with lost steps since I started working with them in 2007, it's just a hobby machine so I don't try and push the maximum from the machine. ~CT
After numerous issues with the electronics I lost interest and disassembled the cnc router to use for parts in other projects, I had a faulty driver and numerous issues with two pc's I had running mach 3, and possibly an issue with one of the stepper motors :( I purchased an Optimum BF20 mini mill recently and will be doing a conversion on that, but I'll be spending a bit more on the electronics so I don't run into the same issues.
I also have a C-Beam Router (Kyo's design from OpenBuilds), but have issues with the rigidity when cutting aluminium. That's why I thought your design might be better than mine. I'm also thinking about converting a milling machine, so I'm looking forward for your BF20 conversion videos. Thanks.. :)
Yea of course, it's actually a very solid design, there are no videos of it running but I've built many machines and this one will easily machine aluminium with a very nice finish.
You might have answered this somewhere else, but what made you want to build a ball screw driven CNC router after your r&p build? I’m at that crossroads right now.
Just the size of the machine really, cost wise for a larger machine rack and pinion is the cheapest option, smaller motors/drivers/psu's, rack and pinions are fairly cheap also depending on the quality. Ballscrews are better in my opinion but at a certain length you run into issues of whipping of ballscrews at higher speeds, having to rotate the additional mass ect. (larger motors ect. - higher costs) there is the possibility of designing a rotating nut design but it's a bit complex and I've only ever seen one build using the design.
I dig your design and I also have purchase a Z-axis assembly from microcarve. Check out this video. ruclips.net/video/vsGREPhdITU/видео.html The z-axis assembly seems pretty similar to ours. (My lead screw is fixed at both ends), but could you see any mechanical advantage of mounting the assembly backwards similar to the video? (Predrilled holes aside of course)
It was slow for me due to work but it was built over a year, you could easily build the machine over 4 or 5 weekends if you really wanted to and had all the parts, cost wise I'd say was about $1500 those Hiwin linear rails are $500 on their own.
Hi, I look all your video and you do a very very very nice job. Lot of inspiration for me. I have one ask for you : what is for you the best to mill aluminum or steel - a table top CNC router like this ? - or CNC custom of a BF20 L ? Thanks for your vidéos Yann
For both steel and Aluminium you'll definitely want a milling machine, most cnc routers will mill aluminium but the quality of cut will vary depending on the machine itself and how rigid it is, off experience a heavy rigid design with the correct milling bits (designed for milling aluminium) will produce some very nice cuts.
Buying parts for my own & yours looks a lot like what I've been drawing. Using open builds c beam for gantry rigidity & cheap Chinese ball screw/20mm square linear rail + controller/stepper/power supply combos off eBay (ratm motor branded...any red flags there?). Did you have any issues with twisting on the gantry during cuts? Thanks for sharing the build process & your plans.
I'm not familiar with the C Beam design but just taking a look at it I think its a lighter extrusion than what I used, chinese ballscrews and rails are good enough for a home cnc machine, if you can buy Hiwin linear rails they're better quality than the generic chinese square rails. For the electronics you normally get what you pay for, personally I hate those multi-driver controllers from china, they always seem to fail pretty quick, best to just buy something half decent like some Leadshine or Gecko drivers. The cnc router in the video is now in parts but I did run a similar cnc router for about 2 years and never had a problem with it.
Hi mate, firstly thank you for putting the video and links up they're excellent. Can I ask did you make the Z-axis or did you purchase? I've seen a few for sale on Aliexpress.
Thanks, I purchased mine from a US seller "microcarve" www.ebay.com.au/sch/microcarve/m.html?item=162326777720 cost about A$220 delivered. The Z axis is the most complex part in a build in my opinion and so just opted to pay a bit extra and buy a pre-made one.
Are there any easy to make mistakes or pitfalls when designing a cnc? I'm in the process of designing one myself now and I'm a bit worried about stiffness. How far do you have your bearing blocks mounted apart from each other, and do you experience any vibrations or flexing during milling?
I'm no expert so I cannot answer your other questions, I normally mount my X axis bearings about 180-200mm end to end and the Y axis (gantry) about 100-120mm end to end.
Hiwin HGH15 Linear Rails and Slides were purchased from Aliexpress.com (www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Linear-Guides-Rail-HIWIN/210929_508115085.html?spm=2114.8147860.0.0.dfKO9D) but there are plenty of sellers sell Hiwin Brand linear rails on there, as far as I can tell they are genuine Hiwin. For the Ballscrews I purchased them from silvers-123 on ebay (CNC & Cupcake world) stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/Ballscrew-5mm-pitch-/_i.html?_fsub=412643919&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 They do cost more than the chinese ballscrews but there is a huge difference in quality, I paid the extra for this build as I was not impressed with the previous lot of ballscrews I purchased from China, they were complete junk. (This is an Australian Supplier so if you're in another country it wont be much help)
transmission screw is ideally between the rails equally spaced oooor maybe closer to the rail that takes the load in this case the bottom one? Applying the force at the top when the load is at the bottom will result in premature bearing wear andall the vibration the sistem is capable of.... Other than that nice build
Hello. Your cnc inspired me to build one. Could you tell me please what size aluminum extrusions you was using and maybe you have a measurements of your cnc ? Thank you
There is a mix of sizes, 120x60mm for the gantry, 120x40mm for the sides and 40x40 for the table supports. There is a link to some sketchup plans in the description. sketchup is free cad software.
CT Thanks for replying. I had a look at sketchup file and couldn't see the measurements for the aluminium plates. Could you tell me the measurements of those plates? Now that you had for some time the machine could you tell me how is running and maybe what improvements you would be doing if you where to build one more machine like this ?
You can use the "Line" tool to get measurements, the "Dimension" tool or the "Tape Measure" Tool (looks like a tape measure) to get dimensions off the sketchup model. After numerous issues with the electronics I disassembled the cnc router to use as parts in a cnc mill conversion, it was taking up space and I lost interest in getting it to run, it's not my first cnc build and it would have produced some good parts based off the results of previous builds.
Fantastico proyecto, me a encantado, gracias amigo por compartir tus conocimientos ¿ con esta maquinita se pueda trabajar el maquinado en aluminio??? "FELICITACIONES"
Hi, thanks for the video and the time taken to document your build. So far it is one of the simplest and sturdiest I've seen and I would like to replicate it for my build. For some reason the link to the sketch up drawings doesn't work. Could you post an updated link? Thanks again
How long did it take ya to realize that those style of couplings you used for the ballscrews/steppers are terrible for CNC? They flex and act like springs... which makes them terrible choices for anything precise. Specially if you do any sort of quick motions, or cut/mill/whatever through anything hard.
Don't think I've ever pushed a machine enough for them to be a problem, I used them because of alignment issues, right angle aluminium is not a perfect 90 degrees. I will be using them when I upgrade my mill, only becuase I have them, but if I have any issues swapping them for some love-joy couplers wont be a problem.
Its a pain but there are guides out there on how to print 1:1 templates, i've only ever printed A4 size stuff but basically you need to set it to parallel projection, top down view (or side of the part) and reduce the visible screen to what you want to print otherwise it'll try printing the blank space. It's been a few years since I've done it as my new cheap laser printer doesn't print 1:1
Hola amigo ¿cuando va a publicar un video con la coneccion de la electronica de la cnc???? y ¿el funcionamiento de esta???.Estoy atento a sus publicaciones,son las mejores. saludos.
In English Eduardo Vargas says "Hello friend, when will you post a video with the cnc's electronic connection ???? And how does this work? I'm attentive to your publications, they're the best. regards."
You think that is expensive? Try shopping for a ready made kit that you still have to put together. At least this way you are in control. You can shop around a bit, have good fun making the parts, assemblies and have aground up understanding of the machine once completed. The equivalent in a ready made CNC Router table of the same size would run you ~7000USD. If you want to buy from China and if they will ship it to you and you do make the right choice of manufacturers your waiting time could be 6 months to a year and possible damages during shipping which you will have to go and pick up at the nearest shipping Port OF Entry and on top of that you will have no customer support. But hey good luck finding one. Do your research and then tell us how expensive this is :-)
They're 1605 rolled ballscrews. I buy mine from this seller stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/Ballscrew-5mm-pitch-/_i.html?_fsub=412643919&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Its just an old junk Ryobi mitre saw, ideally you'd want an aluminium cutting blade but standard high tooth blades will cut it just fine they're just more aggressive than the aluminium blades so you have to take a bit of care when using it.
They were just what was on special at the time and matched the drivers I wanted to get but you could most likely run smaller nema 23 motors without a problem. X & Y - 439oz-in 3.1Nm 3.5A Nema 24 and Z axis has a 269 oz-in 3A nema 23.
I've got all the electronics and it's mostly complete, I still need to attach the spindle, remake the right side ballscrew mount, make an adapter for the spindle to attach a fan as the shaft driven fan supplied was barely providing any cooling (Cheap chinese square body spindle), wire the stepper motors to the drivers and it should be good for it's first run. Had a 3d printer arrive yesterday and so will be 3d printing the few parts I need instead of making them from aluminium again as they'll just be replaced when the cnc router is running so plastic will be good enough for now.
Are you a member of cnczone or keep a build log in any other forum for this particular machine? I am about to start my build and have used a lot of elements of your design. I plan to keep a build journal on cnczone and would like to cite you and any thread you may have out there on the interwebs. Thanks
@@ausxmods Hey Chris, as I mentioned before I designed my own benchtop cnc router that is heavily influenced by your design. I'm about to start posting pictures of my build on facebook and instagram and would love to give some credit where its due. Are you on instagram so I can possibly tag you in the build posts? Thanks
Hello Friend. I am in a project to make a cnc table. I still have to wire the race limit switches that go to the card. I have a diagram of the card and the limits. You can help me ? I can send it to you by email. I would greatly appreciate it
It's just a normal mitre saw, you can buy aluminium cutting blades for them or you can use wood cutting blades but they can be a bit aggressive for cutting aluminium, I'd also think it would severely reduces the life of the blade.
Massive thank you. I built this. Took my time as I really enjoyed the challenge. Also researched and built the control box from scratch.
A really enjoyable project (especially now that everything works !!!). 2.2k water cooled spindle, contactless limit switches etc.
Cuts Aluminium a treat.
The fact that you showed yourself building it with everyday tools did the trick for me.
Big thanks.
this is probably the simplest, but efficient design I have seen yet.....Great Job.
This guy skillful without CNC he cut all aluminium part like CNC cut. Great man.
Very neat ! Really good quality work achieved by manual power tools ! Thanks for posting this build here for us all !!
Brilliant video. I like the way you fast-motion through the humdrum, without skipping key bits. Very thoughtful editing!
Nice to see someone build without already having a cnc!
@Marshall Eddie Reported
@Shepard Kingston Reported
He has those good quality machinist power tools tho and that's more than enough. A cheap drill press would have lots of deflections.
You're a master of the bandsaw.
Excellent work on the chop saw
Building a CNC I wanted to know how much you set back the ballscrew from the edges of the aluminium profile ? Thanks
At 2:20 safety first, stop the machine and proceed. Can get new aluminium bar not fingers 😁. At 4:55 there is loose fitting with the braket fixed to the sliding nut (dont know exactly what its called)
Excellent - this video is quite old now - any update on the machining ability for aluminium - I'm considering making my own CNC milling machine however I'm not clear if I will make the moving gantry type like yours or a moving bed as in conventional milling machines .. any advice welcome
I didn't see this machine specifically machining aluminium but having built a few similar machines you can get good results with quality carbide endmills designed for machining aluminum and with good machinable grades of aluminium, although I do baby it with 0.5mm - 1.0mm cuts per pass, its a hobby machine for me and it's automated so I've never been worried with how long a job takes.
My goto grades are Cast 5083 (tool plate) and 6061 T6511.
Either can produce good results in aluminium it just depends on the design, build it heavy and rigid and you should be right with either.
Is these required lubrication? If yes what will be the time gap between lubrication
You'll find those helical couplings are a mistake. Swap them out for spider couplings. I had a set go full "bad slinky" on me and snap
Thank you for the response. I noticed you had good guality ball screws by the marking on the ball nut , not the red or green dot like the cheap ones . I found a Hiwin dist. In N/A . Thanks . Nice job
Impressive. You did all the AL metal work using basically woodworking tools....
Realy nice. Could you share list of electronic and movement components? Thank you
Really enjoy watching your build! It is shaping up to be a very impressive machine! Nice skills on the various shop tools. Do keep us posted as she comes to life.
Speedy machining by using benchtop jigsaw and overall design is good! Good work! Only one thing, the angle bracket for the two x-axis ballscrew nuts are not strong enough.... may need improvement...
Thanks, once the machine is running the plan is to re-machine all the X axis plates as I wasn't happy with how they turned out.
very nice, I have a workbee I want to add ball screws to. what size of extrusions are you usng
Very nice. how much do it cost you on material?
I cannot remember exactly but I think around AU$2K, aluminium extrusion and the Hiwin linear rails are not cheap.
Really a clean Project!!! perfect for me.
I miss a list of electronic components.
Thanks for share your knowledge
hi, how much did all the materials cost.thank you. great video.
It's roughly about a AUD 3K build (complete and running), but you can easily cut that down if you can source cheaper components, I went sort of mid tier on components so there are definitely some areas you can save money.
@@ausxmods thank you.
Nice!!!!! where did you buy the ballsrews?
They were from an ebay seller "silvers-123" but just having a look they don't seem to have much left only a few odd ballscrew sizes. They were made in Taiwan ballscrews, and were much better quality than what the sellers from china were selling but they did cost twice as much.
I want a metalwork shed in my house, and woodwork. Looks expensive, but well worth the investment (time and money). These parts are not easy to source in my part of the world. Can these hobbyist shops make it down to Eswatini (stop with the SA near misses).
Do you have a BOM (Bill of Material) of the different parts you are/were using, such as types of extruded aluminium, linear rails and lead screws. Furter more is it possible to have a meassurable CAD drawing??
There are some sketchup drawings on the description, they'll give you a good idea on what you need for the build, Extrusion is Profile 30 and Profile 40 (40x40, 40x120 and 60x120), Linear rails are standard Hiwin HGH linear rails/slides, and standard 1605 ballscrews.
Thanks for this video, I'm very curious, how sturdy is this machine when cutting aluminium, if you have tried it? Is there any particular part you would do differently next time?
I'm waiting on some endmills and collets to start cutting aluminium, the single flute 1/8" endmill I have isn't really suited for aluminium.
I'd change the Z axis ballnut mount, and instead of printing the Y axis motor mount just buy one off the shelf, I've got 2 nema 24 mounts coming from china (cast aluminium) and they only cost $30AUD shipped.
If you have tooling for the mill already I'd manually machine the plates, I think with a few endmills and a boring bar most plates could be machined from aluminium. If you're starting with aluminium plates I'd also direct couple the X axis motor mount like the Y axis, the only reason I mounted the Y axis with a belt is because there wouldn't have been much support for the stepper motor.
CT
thankyou very much for your reply, great info. I'll be watching for a new video about aluminium cutting success/failure from you in the future! ;)
Grandiose and time-consuming work! Attaboy! Bravo!!!
I work, assembled machines with the same structure, only they have, a tank between the rails. My problem has been aligning the rails on each side, to ensure parallelism and squareness. The rails are located at a distance of 3 meters from each other. Do you know any technical and effective alignment system. Well, I do it empirically with a tensioned steel wire.
Great Job man ;)
I now building the same but a little bigger. Which stepper you used? Who much NM did they have. Can you show your controller setup?
Any high torque nema 23/24 motor will work with this design, even mid nema 23 range will work like 270 oz-in, I used Nema 24 400oz-in steppers on the X and Y axis and Nema 23 270oz-in stepper on the Z axis. I don't have any pictures of the controller setup but it consisted of a Gecko G540, 48VDC power supply, & Delta 1.5KW VFD, a pretty basic setup.
Have you tried to machine aluminum with this yet? I'm curious how rigid it is.
Not yet, I'm waiting on a few parts so I can wire up the electronics, I'll upload a video of it machining aluminium when its up and running.
It is kind of hard to figure out what dimension you used for the Y axis extrusion. I just found what I am hoping is 45x180 of the 80/20 extrusion. I haven't taken delivery of it. Only a picture so far with a few measurements. So I am holding my breath wondering what exactly I spoke for :-) Watching your build with great interest naturally. Best regards and thanks or taking the time to do all the camera angles :-)
Wow, this is the exact kind of machine I had in mind for my first build! HGR rails, balls screws and all!
In your opinion, what's necessary HGR15 or HGR20 Rails?
Also, are what are the advantages of HGH blocks over HGW blocks? 🤔
Impressive, great skills, great job!
Why did you choose to build a moving gantry rather that fixed gantry moving table? The reason I ask is because in my 20+ years of programming and operating CNC routers I have found the fixed gantry machines to give less chatter. I see that at least one stepper motor has a shaft out the back put an encoder on it and go to a closed loop system.
The goal was to keep it light weight and as small as possible to keep it portable-ish, a fixed gantry machine would be much longer to keep the same working area and would be much heavier, if it were a fixed gantry machine I'd probably be working with a welded steel structure instead of a bolt together aluminium frame.
An encoder would be nice but it just adds to the cost and stepper motors have never given me any trouble with lost steps since I started working with them in 2007, it's just a hobby machine so I don't try and push the maximum from the machine.
~CT
What size/series is the extruded aluminum?
30 series 60x120mm for the gantry and 40series 120x40mm and 40x40mm for the base.
can you tell us the t nuts used and thread size and length of bolts used? thank you
Great build.. Any upcoming video of this machine cutting aluminium? Would love to see that, thanks..
After numerous issues with the electronics I lost interest and disassembled the cnc router to use for parts in other projects, I had a faulty driver and numerous issues with two pc's I had running mach 3, and possibly an issue with one of the stepper motors :(
I purchased an Optimum BF20 mini mill recently and will be doing a conversion on that, but I'll be spending a bit more on the electronics so I don't run into the same issues.
I also have a C-Beam Router (Kyo's design from OpenBuilds), but have issues with the rigidity when cutting aluminium. That's why I thought your design might be better than mine.
I'm also thinking about converting a milling machine, so I'm looking forward for your BF20 conversion videos.
Thanks.. :)
Does it work as it should? I hoped for some videos about it but unfortunately there are none uploaded
Yea of course, it's actually a very solid design, there are no videos of it running but I've built many machines and this one will easily machine aluminium with a very nice finish.
You might have answered this somewhere else, but what made you want to build a ball screw driven CNC router after your r&p build? I’m at that crossroads right now.
Just the size of the machine really, cost wise for a larger machine rack and pinion is the cheapest option, smaller motors/drivers/psu's, rack and pinions are fairly cheap also depending on the quality.
Ballscrews are better in my opinion but at a certain length you run into issues of whipping of ballscrews at higher speeds, having to rotate the additional mass ect. (larger motors ect. - higher costs) there is the possibility of designing a rotating nut design but it's a bit complex and I've only ever seen one build using the design.
I dig your design and I also have purchase a Z-axis assembly from microcarve. Check out this video. ruclips.net/video/vsGREPhdITU/видео.html
The z-axis assembly seems pretty similar to ours. (My lead screw is fixed at both ends), but could you see any mechanical advantage of mounting the assembly backwards similar to the video? (Predrilled holes aside of course)
I was inspired by this sir, that is why i also made my own version
@
Impressive and expensive! Very nice!
Very nice! How much did it cost everything? And how long did it take to make it? Thanks!
It was slow for me due to work but it was built over a year, you could easily build the machine over 4 or 5 weekends if you really wanted to and had all the parts, cost wise I'd say was about $1500 those Hiwin linear rails are $500 on their own.
amazing machine, congratulations
Hi,
I look all your video and you do a very very very nice job. Lot of inspiration for me.
I have one ask for you : what is for you the best to mill aluminum or steel
- a table top CNC router like this ?
- or CNC custom of a BF20 L ?
Thanks for your vidéos
Yann
For both steel and Aluminium you'll definitely want a milling machine, most cnc routers will mill aluminium but the quality of cut will vary depending on the machine itself and how rigid it is, off experience a heavy rigid design with the correct milling bits (designed for milling aluminium) will produce some very nice cuts.
so for you definitely BF20 L with CNC upgrade is definitly the best ?@@ausxmods
Есть практика постройки станка с полем 3000х2100 ?
which is sort a mechanism on 4:50.he touch, which coupler?
I don't have sketchup if it is not free software I don't have it .do have plans that I can get
Buying parts for my own & yours looks a lot like what I've been drawing. Using open builds c beam for gantry rigidity & cheap Chinese ball screw/20mm square linear rail + controller/stepper/power supply combos off eBay (ratm motor branded...any red flags there?). Did you have any issues with twisting on the gantry during cuts? Thanks for sharing the build process & your plans.
I'm not familiar with the C Beam design but just taking a look at it I think its a lighter extrusion than what I used, chinese ballscrews and rails are good enough for a home cnc machine, if you can buy Hiwin linear rails they're better quality than the generic chinese square rails.
For the electronics you normally get what you pay for, personally I hate those multi-driver controllers from china, they always seem to fail pretty quick, best to just buy something half decent like some Leadshine or Gecko drivers.
The cnc router in the video is now in parts but I did run a similar cnc router for about 2 years and never had a problem with it.
Do you have working video of this CNC Router?
Which steeper motor you use?
Any chance to see the final machine in action and your thoughts on the build after some use? The build looks alot lige what I am working on
Unfortunately not, I wasn't using it and needed some cash so just sold it off, I have more interest in building the cnc routers than running them.
Hi mate, firstly thank you for putting the video and links up they're excellent. Can I ask did you make the Z-axis or did you purchase? I've seen a few for sale on Aliexpress.
Thanks, I purchased mine from a US seller "microcarve" www.ebay.com.au/sch/microcarve/m.html?item=162326777720 cost about A$220 delivered.
The Z axis is the most complex part in a build in my opinion and so just opted to pay a bit extra and buy a pre-made one.
CT sar gab ur nambar
Gabe ur nambar
Hi I was wondering if you can email me your plans or if I can buy them please let me know thank you
Oh my! nice work and great video. Where did you get the giant angle aluminum?
Most Aluminium suppliers should stock it, but this piece was from Calm Aluminium.
I've never seen an angle piece this large at my local supplier. I'll take a look around. Thanks for the reply.
Are there any easy to make mistakes or pitfalls when designing a cnc? I'm in the process of designing one myself now and I'm a bit worried about stiffness. How far do you have your bearing blocks mounted apart from each other, and do you experience any vibrations or flexing during milling?
I'm no expert so I cannot answer your other questions, I normally mount my X axis bearings about 180-200mm end to end and the Y axis (gantry) about 100-120mm end to end.
Hello Can you give me the material list?
Where did you buy your hardware from . Guides and ball screws .
Hiwin HGH15 Linear Rails and Slides were purchased from Aliexpress.com (www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Linear-Guides-Rail-HIWIN/210929_508115085.html?spm=2114.8147860.0.0.dfKO9D) but there are plenty of sellers sell Hiwin Brand linear rails on there, as far as I can tell they are genuine Hiwin.
For the Ballscrews I purchased them from silvers-123 on ebay (CNC & Cupcake world) stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/Ballscrew-5mm-pitch-/_i.html?_fsub=412643919&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 They do cost more than the chinese ballscrews but there is a huge difference in quality, I paid the extra for this build as I was not impressed with the previous lot of ballscrews I purchased from China, they were complete junk. (This is an Australian Supplier so if you're in another country it wont be much help)
hi...your hiwin rail 15mm or 20mm ?
15mm
Which motars are you using??
Good afternoon my friend! I have one question, okay? I see that was the two motors in the axis Y. Are they connected in parallel?
Yes, one of the motors is slaved to the other in the CNC software, it's a pretty common setup.
transmission screw is ideally between the rails equally spaced oooor maybe closer to the rail that takes the load in this case the bottom one? Applying the force at the top when the load is at the bottom will result in premature bearing wear andall the vibration the sistem is capable of.... Other than that nice build
Hello. Your cnc inspired me to build one. Could you tell me please what size aluminum extrusions you was using and maybe you have a measurements of your cnc ? Thank you
There is a mix of sizes, 120x60mm for the gantry, 120x40mm for the sides and 40x40 for the table supports. There is a link to some sketchup plans in the description. sketchup is free cad software.
CT Thanks for replying. I had a look at sketchup file and couldn't see the measurements for the aluminium plates. Could you tell me the measurements of those plates? Now that you had for some time the machine could you tell me how is running and maybe what improvements you would be doing if you where to build one more machine like this ?
You can use the "Line" tool to get measurements, the "Dimension" tool or the "Tape Measure" Tool (looks like a tape measure) to get dimensions off the sketchup model.
After numerous issues with the electronics I disassembled the cnc router to use as parts in a cnc mill conversion, it was taking up space and I lost interest in getting it to run, it's not my first cnc build and it would have produced some good parts based off the results of previous builds.
Excellente CNC félicitations
what are the dimensions of the ball screw and linear rails?
I know you used SFU1605, am looking for the lengths. Appreciate if you could answer
Muy bueno el proyecto. ¿como me puedo hacer con los planos?
Fantastico proyecto, me a encantado, gracias amigo por compartir tus conocimientos ¿ con esta maquinita se pueda trabajar el maquinado en aluminio??? "FELICITACIONES"
Hi, thanks for the video and the time taken to document your build. So far it is one of the simplest and sturdiest I've seen and I would like to replicate it for my build. For some reason the link to the sketch up drawings doesn't work. Could you post an updated link?
Thanks again
Just sent the sketchup plans by email.
CT Thank you sir!
None of the links worked for me. Can anyone help?
How long did it take ya to realize that those style of couplings you used for the ballscrews/steppers are terrible for CNC? They flex and act like springs... which makes them terrible choices for anything precise. Specially if you do any sort of quick motions, or cut/mill/whatever through anything hard.
Don't think I've ever pushed a machine enough for them to be a problem, I used them because of alignment issues, right angle aluminium is not a perfect 90 degrees. I will be using them when I upgrade my mill, only becuase I have them, but if I have any issues swapping them for some love-joy couplers wont be a problem.
I have a large format printer but am unsure how to print templates from Sketchup. Can you help|?
Its a pain but there are guides out there on how to print 1:1 templates, i've only ever printed A4 size stuff but basically you need to set it to parallel projection, top down view (or side of the part) and reduce the visible screen to what you want to print otherwise it'll try printing the blank space.
It's been a few years since I've done it as my new cheap laser printer doesn't print 1:1
Look for a program called bigprint
An inspiration, thank you!
Hola amigo ¿cuando va a publicar un video con la coneccion de la electronica de la cnc???? y ¿el funcionamiento de esta???.Estoy atento a sus publicaciones,son las mejores. saludos.
In English Eduardo Vargas says "Hello friend, when will you post a video with the cnc's electronic connection ???? And how does this work? I'm attentive to your publications, they're the best. regards."
may I have a plan
but can it cut steel?
How much does this machine cost?
There are a-lot of variables, but I'd say its a AUD 2-4K range build including the electronics.
wait! 2:19 you put your finger next the cutter
do you have stl files or any other kind because i dont have sketch up
also if you have parts list can i have it because i really want to make it and how much will every thing cost?
I don't have any STL files, but sketchup is free
no parts list but if you want to know specific parts I can find out for you, it's about a 2-3K build I would say.
if it was 2k why didn't you just buy one for that much?
Are you referring to the chinese 6040's on ebay? because in Australia that's all you can buy for ~2K, they're junk IMO.
what is the total cost ,plz ????? of all things you Purchased .. thx in advance
It's not a cheap build it's about 2-3K, but you could use cheaper electronics and linear rails to keep costs down if you wanted to.
+CT value in dollars.., i'm not a native what is 2-3k coin ?????
sorry forgot the currency, its about $2000-$3000 AUD or about $1500-$2200 USD.
very expensive !!!!!!!! thx a lot ,man ..........
You think that is expensive? Try shopping for a ready made kit that you still have to put together. At least this way you are in control. You can shop around a bit, have good fun making the parts, assemblies and have aground up understanding of the machine once completed. The equivalent in a ready made CNC Router table of the same size would run you ~7000USD. If you want to buy from China and if they will ship it to you and you do make the right choice of manufacturers your waiting time could be 6 months to a year and possible damages during shipping which you will have to go and pick up at the nearest shipping Port OF Entry and on top of that you will have no customer support. But hey good luck finding one. Do your research and then tell us how expensive this is :-)
How much price in This cnc CNC machine
Hi this is a professional work ,
Do you buy it
erection no.2
Explain the power of the engine used
??
What kind of ballscrews are you using?
They're 1605 rolled ballscrews. I buy mine from this seller stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/Ballscrew-5mm-pitch-/_i.html?_fsub=412643919&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
pretty interesting project
Fantastic job .U can tell me the Model name of ur miter saw ? amazing
Its just an old junk Ryobi mitre saw, ideally you'd want an aluminium cutting blade but standard high tooth blades will cut it just fine they're just more aggressive than the aluminium blades so you have to take a bit of care when using it.
Thanks for the reply My Friend
spek stepper sir? nema 23 ? how amper
They are 387 oz-in nema 24 3.5A steppers from memory with a 230?oz-in nema 23 2A on the Z axis.
ok thanks sir
what kind of jump have yours skreews?
I gather you mean the travel distance which is roughly 450x550mm.
What size rods are those
What’s the logo of the circle blessing
2:19 tho...
Great job. You say something about stepper motors? What did you use or how strong should be on each axis?
They were just what was on special at the time and matched the drivers I wanted to get but you could most likely run smaller nema 23 motors without a problem.
X & Y - 439oz-in 3.1Nm 3.5A Nema 24 and Z axis has a 269 oz-in 3A nema 23.
Amazing video... good job... very nice...
Have the electronics arrived yet? I keep checking back for updates.
I've got all the electronics and it's mostly complete, I still need to attach the spindle, remake the right side ballscrew mount, make an adapter for the spindle to attach a fan as the shaft driven fan supplied was barely providing any cooling (Cheap chinese square body spindle), wire the stepper motors to the drivers and it should be good for it's first run.
Had a 3d printer arrive yesterday and so will be 3d printing the few parts I need instead of making them from aluminium again as they'll just be replaced when the cnc router is running so plastic will be good enough for now.
Excellent, looking forward to it!
Your ballnut mounts look flimsy. Definitely the weakest link.
What stepper motors did you use?
X & Y - 439oz-in 3.1Nm 3.5A Nema 24 and Z axis has a 269 oz-in 3A nema 23.
What software you using
CNC - Mach 3 / CAM - Vectric Cut 2D / CAD - Sketchup
Although I'll be moving to CNC - UCCNC and hopefully a better CAD/CAM package soon.
how long is your y and x axis ?
700mm x 700mm
Are you a member of cnczone or keep a build log in any other forum for this particular machine? I am about to start my build and have used a lot of elements of your design. I plan to keep a build journal on cnczone and would like to cite you and any thread you may have out there on the interwebs. Thanks
Very early on I would post my build logs on forums (2007-2011?) but my recent builds aren't on any forums.
@@ausxmods Hey Chris, as I mentioned before I designed my own benchtop cnc router that is heavily influenced by your design. I'm about to start posting pictures of my build on facebook and instagram and would love to give some credit where its due. Are you on instagram so I can possibly tag you in the build posts?
Thanks
@@forisfive5309 Thanks, but apart from youtube and my hobby site I don't have much presence online these days.
Hello Friend. I am in a project to make a cnc table. I still have to wire the race limit switches that go to the card. I have a diagram of the card and the limits. You can help me ? I can send it to you by email. I would greatly appreciate it
what metal saw is this
It's just a normal mitre saw, you can buy aluminium cutting blades for them or you can use wood cutting blades but they can be a bit aggressive for cutting aluminium, I'd also think it would severely reduces the life of the blade.