A lot of people have been asking about how the layout is wired and the power is transferred from module to module. I went into more detail about this in Episode 6 which you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/видео.html
American here. Im here to see fun model railroads, and see how different people join their modular layouts together so there aren’t problems between modules and how the rails are trimmed to match up. Also, much of the US is flat, but there’s a LOT of US, so there are many variations in the topography. It definitely isn’t all flat, but modern railroads definitely are more prone to take the least resistance nowadays, which I think is what is modeled most.
Oh definitely, but I think in the US you seem to have more wide open spaces than we do in the UK. So many of our railways (especially old preserved ones) are built in small confined spaces and valleys, carved into the landscape. That make it much more noticeable that the land around the railway is anything but flat. Thanks for watching 👍
Really glad to hear you've been enjoying them Paul, a lack of space was the exact same reason I started this project. The great thing is that the modules can be as big or small as you like and getting each one finished inspires you to start another. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for the link to this. It's very clear to see that you have covered all options in the symmetrical design etc. I just wish I'd seen this at the beginning of Lockdown when I started my 'born-again model railwayer' as I most certainly have done it this way. Hey ho, such is life eh !!! But now I know for the next layout. Thanks a million, Rick the Bulldog
My pleasure Rick! I did spend quite a bit of time planning out how to to get everything to fit together but I was definitely influenced and inspired by others who have built their own modular layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic video once again. Must admit I hadn't considered modular before these but seeing you talk through how it all connects up (and the possibility to vary the layout) is definitely appealing. Absolutely love the way you do scenery. Cheers!
Thanks Jon! I'll admit I thought it was a bit of a gimmick at first but I quickly realised it could be useful considering I wanted a large layout but don't have the permanent space for one. It's also handy as I'm always changing my mind about what kind of layout I want - now I can have several all in one! Thanks for watching 😃
I have a couple of suggestions about laying the track to the end of the module. First, in the last 3-4 inches at the edge of the module, substitute a piece of luan the same thickness as your cork road bed. We use cork because it is soft, but this works against us at the edge of a module in supporting the track over the life of the module. In the US, N cork is about 3 mm thick, HO is roughly 5 mm thick. Substitute plywood in these thickness is available at most hobby shops in their supplies for ship building hobbyest. My second suggest is to use the uniform bolt hole and build a track alignment jig that is keyed to the bolt holes. This could be as simple as a piece of wood with two holes drilled to match the bolt holes that also includes a piece of track alignment gauge attached to the top of it to align the track you are laying. A alignment gauge like this will eliminate the need for careful visual alignment of the track when soldering it in place. I work in N and use #2 1/2 inch flat head wood screws to attach my rail ends to the edge of the module. I also have a track alignment tool like I've described to hold the track perpendicular to the module edge when attaching it.
With the 12+ modules I've built so far I haven't experienced any problems with support at the end of the modules. The cork is well protected by the endplates and is really only there for visual purposes anyway to give the ballast a shoulder. The track itself is supported by the brass screws. When it comes to aligning the rails, for filming purposes I chose to do this on an isolated module so that it was clearer to see for the video. Usually I have another module attached so that aligning the rails and, more importantly, getting the height right is easy. I've found this the best way to get smooth running across all modules rather than a jig as each module has it's own unique quirks to account for. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching 👍
This is fantastic! I’ve been thinking of this same concept using 28” x 80” hollow doors as the module base, track center aligned so I can set them up any way, flipped, reversed etc. like yours. The end template had me stumped, was thinking of jigsaw but I love the laser cut solution! Great idea. Same with the pins, was thing about using existing locking hardware (barrel bolt) but seems too loose. Thanks, you got me excited!
Great stuff, really glad to hear this has got you excited! Yes the laser cut ends are a great way of doing it to make all the ends consistent. I can’t claim it’s an original idea though, I’m pretty sure I’ve seen other layouts use similar methods. Thanks for watching 😃
Haha, be my guest 😁 I’m certainly not the first to do it so it’s not an original idea but part of making this video was to bring it to a wider audience. Thanks for watching 😊
Thanks Nick! It's sort of the combination of several existing ideas all thrown together so I can't take much credit for it but it does seem to work well for a modular setup. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks Andrew, really great to hear such positive feedback. I like to keep the videos engaging and maintaining a high production value is certainly part of that. After all, what's the point in sharing a new idea if no-one can tell what you're doing! Thanks for watching 😃
I know a little about FREMO, having watched a video about it on RUclips a while ago. It originated in Europe (with the Friendship of European Modellers) as they needed a common system for when they would meet up to run trains together (once annually near Salzburg from memory).
Ah brilliant! I’d always assumed it was an. American thing given how popular it is over there but good to know it was actually a European creation! Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks Neil, yes I've definitely been inspired by other modular layouts and have adapted the techniques for my own use but glad the video was still interesting for you. Thanks for watching 😃
If your hope was to inspire other modellers, you have succeeded. I am very space limited, but can see how this system would allow me to dream bigger, and fulfill those dreams, in instalments, with the ultimate goal of having a roundy-roundy layout in my 1 bedroom flat, alongside my work in progress inglenook wagon works. Thank you.
Amazing! Yes I'm in the same boat, I don't have space for a large permanent layout but I've always wanted to build something a bit bigger than my shunting layout. By working in sections it also means I don't get stuck doing one thing for too long either which is great as it keeps me interested and motivated. Really glad this has inspired you and let us know if you ever make a start on your dream layout. Thanks for watching 😃
I like watching your videos and would like to offer a suggestion regarding when you join your track between modules. I think if you overlap the track ,by whatever amount you need to onto the next board so you don’t have that bump when the train goes over it,because let’s face it, it’s very hard to get the module’s exactly flat to line up the track,going by what I’ve seen on your videos. Then you can wire up as you have done before for your electrical continuity. Keep up the good work with what your doing,it gives other modellers great assistance with their own layouts.
Hi Gary, really glad you're enjoying the videos. That is a possibility but the main problem with having the track overlap is that when the modules are disconnected the rails would be suspended over the edge of the board. As they're so delicate they would be prone to getting broken or even just knocked out of alignment. That's why I was soldering them to the brass screws at the end of the rail as otherwise I've found you just can't get the precision needed. Thanks for watching 😃
I've been looking at videos about creating modular layouts and this is the first one that actually goes into aligning the boards and tracks in a practical manner. Personally, without experience of my own yet, I'd use smaller skrews to solder the tracks to perhaps, to make it even harder to detect. Also: would it be useful in any way to use the connectors that you use to align the board also for conveying power from one board to an other? Great videos! Quality and clarity is right up there with the likes of Sam's Trains!
Hi there, really glad you found the video helpful! You could potentially use smaller screws, I just think the larger contact area to solder the rail too is helpful as well as the depth going into the baseboard frame makes it a really solid joint. Generally these screws get covered up by ballast but I have seen people use copper clad sleepers if they prefer to have everything looking perfect. You could also use the connectors to transfer the power too. The reason I didn't was mostly for simplicity (it's much easier to resolve any connection issues if it's not built into the frame). But it's definitely possible and I think the layout that inspired this project did indeed transfer power that way. As always the nice thing about these videos is that they show the way I do it, but they can act as a spring board for others to take the same principles and adapt or improve them for their own uses. Thanks for watching 😃
I can’t tell you how happy I am to have found a series of videos that explain how I’d personally like to do a layout (modular) plus it’s great how you have gone into details on how your doing it 👌 is there any chance I could buy some of them end templates you have had made up ?
Fantastic, that's great to hear Michael. I'm always happy to share my progress on the layout with everyone and hopefully give people some ideas. At the moment I'm not able to sell the endplates but they're fairly simple to draw in CAD - or many of the laser cutting companies can help with design too. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks! I can't take all the credit as it's based off techniques I've seen on similar layouts but I've made it my own to a certain extent. Thanks for watching 😃
Great video followed most of your tips in your videos however missed this one and now my boards dont match up, my mistake connection dowls you mention now on order. Once again many thanks
Great series. Well done! I have really enjoyed watching all the episodes and am now starting to make my own modular layout, although I haven't got very far yet! Can you tell me what material the endplates are made from, and how thick they are?
Really glad you've enjoyed the series. My endplates are 3mm thick hardboard - the material doesn't matter so much as the thickness. If you're going to have them rise up above the level of the baseboard like I did, I would actually make them even thicker in hindsight. This will stop them flexing back and forth so much when you add the scenery. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
thank you for such an inspiring set of videos, i am just in the process of starting my layout after many years of it being stored away, i really like the idea of the modular system you have go there, where could i find the place you purchased the endboards from? thanks Liam
Thanks Liam, really glad to hear you’ve been enjoying the videos - there’s lots more coming next year! The endplates are custom so we’re designed by me but I used LaserLab.co.uk to get them actually made, though it’s worth searching around other laser cutters online to see who can do the best price. Thanks for watching 😃
Very helpful! What a great idea to use brass screws are so much better than the copper clad, I’ve now switched to brass screws instead permanently now! Thanks for the idea. Also what solder do you use?
My pleasure, I definitely find them more sturdy as they anchor into the wood of the frame. Generally I use 0.8mm lead free solder but honestly I tend to go with whatever's available. Thanks for watching 👍
G'day mate amazing video and using lasercut ends is very clever might try it out if i have to rebuild my layout hope ur keeping safe and seasons greetings
I'm not able to make them available currently but you can see the basic design from the video. I had no idea about any of this stuff at this point either but through trial and error I got there. They were basically designed in Adobe Illustrator and sent off to a laser cutting service from there. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
This series is inspiring me to think about building my.own layout. Two questions though if you don't mind. Firstly, what do you sit your baseboards on? Secondly, how do you go about designing the end bits of the baseboards? Thank you!
Hi there, the modules all sit on A frames legs from B&Q, I bought a load when I was starting the project but I think they've gone up in price now. The endplates were drawn out in Adobe Illustrator but any vector graphic software will work. The important bit is to follow the specifications set by whoever is doing the actual laser cutting. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
This is epic may I suggest that you see if some traintubers and people of your and others community would be interested in building parts of a railway system and then hosting them in a hall for the public sort of thing as it does happen but you could sell the end plates and maybe create more diverse world's ??? I think it would be coll
Thanks! It's a possibility but Freemo generally seems to be the most popular standard so if people wanted to build part of a modular layout that would be their best bet really. Never say never though! Thanks for watching 👍
Hi there! Your video series have inspired me to make my own module layout! Thanks for what you do! I'm not sure if you still see these comments since this vid is a tad old, but if you don't mind me asking, what kind of hardware do you use to connect the baseboards? I can't seem to find anything similar to use for my baseboards. Thank you!
That’s awesome, really glad to hear these videos have inspired you! I use M6 bolts to hold the baseboards together and alignment dowels to keep the boards and track aligned correctly. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Great Video Series and love the modular approach. I was wondering what software did you use to create your endboards as I am looking to do something similar and could do it by hand but know that I would not be able to get them to align correctly.
Thanks Matt, really glad to hear you're enjoying the videos! I created mine in Adobe Illustrator but I think any software capable of drawing vector graphics should be fine. A lot of the time the laser cutting companies will suggest compatible programs that you can design you parts in along with instructions on how to set them up to be cut correctly. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I'm going modular too, but my methods are nowhere near as refined. I will need to be able to store my boards under the bed, so they are 70" x 24" (179 cm x 60 cm). There are four of these and two inserts on the edge of 31" x 15" (79 x 38 cm). Mine will have to fit in a specific way because of the layout design. Had I come across your stream sooner, I would have adopted your approaches. Will follow this project of yours with great interest! How do you join the electrics?
Ah brilliant, your modules are a bit bigger than mine then! Best of luck with your own layout build 👍 I’ll go into detail on the electrics in the future but the quick version is the track is fed by bus wires under each module which have connectors on each end to transfer the power to next baseboard. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy If only you could use the connecting bolts or dowels for the two bus wires - just a thought. I'll need more than those, I have signals too 🤔. Fortunately all the points are DCC controlled, so the point motors or controllers can get their power etc from the bus.
People have done that but I thought it was about beyond me 😂 Yeah I know what you mean about point and signal wiring. Luckily for me I’ve managed to keep most of it just two modules so I can cut down on extra wires.
Hi, great video about aligning the track across the baseboard joints. This video is the only one I have seen so far, as you cut the track BEFORE soldering to the screws. I find this way better as well (more confident with track cutting this way), but doing so is this not more risky than first solder on both sides and at the very end cut the track?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Yes it is more risky doing it this way but because I'm building each module one at a time (and because I want them to all be interchangeable) I don't have the option of laying the track over the join and then cutting the rails. If you were building a more traditional portable/exhibition layout that is only intended to be setup in one particular way though, then I'd highly recommend you solder the track across the join first and then cut the rails. Thanks for watching 😃
You could publish the end plate plans and create a new UK standard for modular layouts, so if we ever get exhibitions again others Could connect to yours.
I have thought about that but there's a few modular groups out there already so if people really wanted to join up with other layouts they'd probably be better off building to those standards instead. Thanks for watching 😃
so in freemo you can have non flat end sections so long as they are intended only to join to your own module. So you can create your own mountain range scene that's broken up over 3-4 modules as long as they're intended to always be together. The flatness is a bit of a bummer but that's somewhat the nature of the game unfortunately
Yes that was kind of what I was talking about when I said you can do whatever you like in between but the ends where you join onto others modules are always flat. For me that wouldn't really work, partly because I wanted to have as much flexibility as possible when setting the layout up in different configurations but also because, in the grand scheme of things, my layout is probably much smaller than most Freemo style layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi, great information and help for a newbie here! Thank you!! I am seriously considering this method for TT:120 but want to have both radius 2 and 3 which would mean the track centres are at 310mm and 353mm. I’m propose to build 40cm wide modules which would mean the boards would only fit one way around and I would need to go to the straight end profile. Then probably use multiples of 40… I was thinking about going from the curve onto a straight at the corner joint, do you see any issues with joining on the curve end? Thanks…
Hi Mark, the concept of a modular model railway should work in any scale, not just 00. It's all down to the planning and it sounds like you've got a good idea of what you want already and have been thinking about how to achieve it. While my layout is fully modular (ie: all the modules are interchangeable and reversible) there is also the option of build a portable layout which still breaks down into sections but is only assembled in one particular way. That might be another potential option for you if you have multiple running lines and you want to keep things consistent. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi there, I have wires underneath the baseboards to feed the tracks with connectors on each end to pass power along to the next module. I cover this in a bit more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/IFPBPS6nOMU/видео.html Thanks for watching 😃
Hi! I've just started watching your videos and I'm really enjoying them! I was just wondering how you were doing the wiring for your boards and carrying the power from one board to another? I may have simply missed it, but I'm curious as to how you're going about the electrics.
Thanks, really glad to hear that! I touched on the wiring for the modular layout very briefly in the latest episode but a lot of people have been asking similar questions so it's definitely something I'll be going into more detail in during a future episode. Essentially though the track is fed from bus wires under each module and these have connectors on each end to join up to the bus wires on the next module. As I say I show all this in detail in the next episode but hope that helps in the meantime and thanks for watching 😃
Love these tutorials, I’m just setting up my modular system, can you help with company who cut you joining templates, having trouble finding someone who can do them for me. Thanks
Hi there, these days I tend to cut my own but before I had a laser cutter I used both Laser Lab and RazorLAB for the custom cutting. I did use other places as well - basically I would shop around for the cheapest price. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Hmm, that's a tricky one as I've never used set track over baseboard joints and I'm not entirely sure how it would work in practice. The point of soldering the rails to the screws is not only to keep them properly aligned but also to protect them from getting damaged when the boards are disconnected. If set track is more robust and doesn't need that extra protection it may not be necessary but it's not the way I would personally go about doing it. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi Neil, I used LaserLab.co.uk but there's plenty of companies out there doing this so I'd say have a look round and find out which one is best for you. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi Matthew, I'm not sure if these are a particular brand but I got mine from Station Road Baseboards. They have lots of different sizes and configurations so plenty of options to explore. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Hey there, I show this in Episode 6 so you may want to check out that episode for more info: ruclips.net/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/видео.html Thanks for watching 😃
Is this DCC or DC? Also how are you connecting each module for electric as I'm designing a small module layout that can be stored in storage boxes and it will be DC, but I have so many ways of thinking on how it should be done (connector blocks, plug n pin etc) also subscribed as very useful series
Hi Tommy, at the moment the layout is wired for DC but I'll hopefully I'll be adding DCC into the mix soon and the plan is to be able to switch between the two. There's been a few other comments lately asking about how I'm wiring everything, so I'll definitely go into this in more detail in the next episode. Really glad you're enjoying the series and thanks for watching and subscribing 😃
Hi Chris, I used laserlab.co.uk but I'd recommended having a look around at other companies too as you might find a better deal. I went with them just because my endplates needed to be quite wide and they had a standard sheet size that was big enough. I think it cost about £20 to get 5-6 made. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
There's a set of bus wires under every board with connectors on that link all the modules together electrically. The power to the rails is then fed from the bus wires on each module meaning I get really reliable power all over the layout. Check out this section from a later episode to see it in a bit more detail: ruclips.net/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/видео.html Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Just watched the video! Really like this series, learning a lot of interesting techniques. Thank you! Making sure to watch the rest of the series now before asking too many more questions. XD
Are you able to share the name of the company you used to make the end plates? Also how did you design the end plates and what did you use to do so? Thanks
Hi there, I used a company called Laser Lab who do custom laser cutting. The endplates were designed in Adobe Illustrator to the specifications set out by Laser Lab and then I sent the files over to them for cutting. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I'm actually working on getting links sorted soon, although unfortunately most specialist model railway items aren't available through Amazon. Try StationRoadBaseboards.co.uk instead for the alignment dowels, that's where I got mine. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I think those laser cut boards are ideal. Do you sell them, or would you make them available for sale please. If not are you willing to share the drawings and supplier to save me (and other followers) the work to be able to use the idea. Thanks, Brian
Hi Brian, I don't currently sell the module endplates but it is something I'm looking at so I'm hoping to make them available in the future. Thanks for watching 😃
I mean, it doesn’t really matter since they mean the same thing, so I use both. The next thing will be someone wanting me to clarify between double 0 and Dublo! 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
A lot of people have been asking about how the layout is wired and the power is transferred from module to module. I went into more detail about this in Episode 6 which you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/видео.html
American here. Im here to see fun model railroads, and see how different people join their modular layouts together so there aren’t problems between modules and how the rails are trimmed to match up.
Also, much of the US is flat, but there’s a LOT of US, so there are many variations in the topography. It definitely isn’t all flat, but modern railroads definitely are more prone to take the least resistance nowadays, which I think is what is modeled most.
Oh definitely, but I think in the US you seem to have more wide open spaces than we do in the UK. So many of our railways (especially old preserved ones) are built in small confined spaces and valleys, carved into the landscape. That make it much more noticeable that the land around the railway is anything but flat. Thanks for watching 👍
Hi seems a great way of enabling you to join various modules and interchange them as required. look forward to seeing more.
That's certainly the plan Steve, I just need to finish a few more modules now! Thanks for watching 😃
Really enjoying these videos, I've always loved model railways but have never had the space to have a proper layout this may be the answer!
Really glad to hear you've been enjoying them Paul, a lack of space was the exact same reason I started this project. The great thing is that the modules can be as big or small as you like and getting each one finished inspires you to start another. Thanks for watching 😃
I've been thinking about constructing a modular layout for a while now. I'm watching your progress with interest. Thanks for posting.
Awesome, glad you’re finding the videos useful. Good luck with your own modular layout and thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for the link to this. It's very clear to see that you have covered all options in the symmetrical design etc. I just wish I'd seen this at the beginning of Lockdown when I started my 'born-again model railwayer' as I most certainly have done it this way. Hey ho, such is life eh !!! But now I know for the next layout. Thanks a million, Rick the Bulldog
My pleasure Rick! I did spend quite a bit of time planning out how to to get everything to fit together but I was definitely influenced and inspired by others who have built their own modular layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic video once again. Must admit I hadn't considered modular before these but seeing you talk through how it all connects up (and the possibility to vary the layout) is definitely appealing. Absolutely love the way you do scenery. Cheers!
Thanks Jon! I'll admit I thought it was a bit of a gimmick at first but I quickly realised it could be useful considering I wanted a large layout but don't have the permanent space for one. It's also handy as I'm always changing my mind about what kind of layout I want - now I can have several all in one! Thanks for watching 😃
also makes the elephant easier to eat, when time and space is limited, makes any project far less intimidating for noobs (me ! :) )
I have a couple of suggestions about laying the track to the end of the module. First, in the last 3-4 inches at the edge of the module, substitute a piece of luan the same thickness as your cork road bed. We use cork because it is soft, but this works against us at the edge of a module in supporting the track over the life of the module. In the US, N cork is about 3 mm thick, HO is roughly 5 mm thick. Substitute plywood in these thickness is available at most hobby shops in their supplies for ship building hobbyest.
My second suggest is to use the uniform bolt hole and build a track alignment jig that is keyed to the bolt holes. This could be as simple as a piece of wood with two holes drilled to match the bolt holes that also includes a piece of track alignment gauge attached to the top of it to align the track you are laying. A alignment gauge like this will eliminate the need for careful visual alignment of the track when soldering it in place. I work in N and use #2 1/2 inch flat head wood screws to attach my rail ends to the edge of the module. I also have a track alignment tool like I've described to hold the track perpendicular to the module edge when attaching it.
With the 12+ modules I've built so far I haven't experienced any problems with support at the end of the modules. The cork is well protected by the endplates and is really only there for visual purposes anyway to give the ballast a shoulder. The track itself is supported by the brass screws.
When it comes to aligning the rails, for filming purposes I chose to do this on an isolated module so that it was clearer to see for the video. Usually I have another module attached so that aligning the rails and, more importantly, getting the height right is easy. I've found this the best way to get smooth running across all modules rather than a jig as each module has it's own unique quirks to account for. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching 👍
This is fantastic! I’ve been thinking of this same concept using 28” x 80” hollow doors as the module base, track center aligned so I can set them up any way, flipped, reversed etc. like yours. The end template had me stumped, was thinking of jigsaw but I love the laser cut solution! Great idea. Same with the pins, was thing about using existing locking hardware (barrel bolt) but seems too loose. Thanks, you got me excited!
Great stuff, really glad to hear this has got you excited! Yes the laser cut ends are a great way of doing it to make all the ends consistent. I can’t claim it’s an original idea though, I’m pretty sure I’ve seen other layouts use similar methods. Thanks for watching 😃
the laser cutting is a brilliant idea, I may have to steal it
Haha, be my guest 😁 I’m certainly not the first to do it so it’s not an original idea but part of making this video was to bring it to a wider audience. Thanks for watching 😊
Really like the way you have achieved this, great result
Nick Australia
Thanks Nick! It's sort of the combination of several existing ideas all thrown together so I can't take much credit for it but it does seem to work well for a modular setup. Thanks for watching 😃
That is brilliant. I was wondering if something like this was even possible.
Yep it’s definitely possible, I have an entire layout that uses this principle to prove it. Thanks for watching 😃
Excellent, genius, extremely useful, and a professional production. Top notch - thank you!
Thanks Andrew, really great to hear such positive feedback. I like to keep the videos engaging and maintaining a high production value is certainly part of that. After all, what's the point in sharing a new idea if no-one can tell what you're doing! Thanks for watching 😃
I know a little about FREMO, having watched a video about it on RUclips a while ago. It originated in Europe (with the Friendship of European Modellers) as they needed a common system for when they would meet up to run trains together (once annually near Salzburg from memory).
Ah brilliant! I’d always assumed it was an. American thing given how popular it is over there but good to know it was actually a European creation! Thanks for watching 😃
Great video. Well done. Peter (from Australia)
Glad you enjoyed it Peter! Thanks for watching 😃
well done mate... a really fantastic system... i have seen this type of modular set up before, but your presentation kept me captivated... ATB Neil
Thanks Neil, yes I've definitely been inspired by other modular layouts and have adapted the techniques for my own use but glad the video was still interesting for you. Thanks for watching 😃
If your hope was to inspire other modellers, you have succeeded. I am very space limited, but can see how this system would allow me to dream bigger, and fulfill those dreams, in instalments, with the ultimate goal of having a roundy-roundy layout in my 1 bedroom flat, alongside my work in progress inglenook wagon works.
Thank you.
Amazing! Yes I'm in the same boat, I don't have space for a large permanent layout but I've always wanted to build something a bit bigger than my shunting layout. By working in sections it also means I don't get stuck doing one thing for too long either which is great as it keeps me interested and motivated.
Really glad this has inspired you and let us know if you ever make a start on your dream layout. Thanks for watching 😃
I like watching your videos and would like to offer a suggestion regarding when you join your track between modules.
I think if you overlap the track ,by whatever amount you need to onto the next board so you don’t have that bump when the train goes over it,because let’s face it, it’s very hard to get the module’s exactly flat to line up the track,going by what I’ve seen on your videos.
Then you can wire up as you have done before for your electrical continuity.
Keep up the good work with what your doing,it gives other modellers great assistance with their own layouts.
Hi Gary, really glad you're enjoying the videos. That is a possibility but the main problem with having the track overlap is that when the modules are disconnected the rails would be suspended over the edge of the board. As they're so delicate they would be prone to getting broken or even just knocked out of alignment. That's why I was soldering them to the brass screws at the end of the rail as otherwise I've found you just can't get the precision needed. Thanks for watching 😃
Brilliant. Thank you!
Thanks Alfred, glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 👍
I've been looking at videos about creating modular layouts and this is the first one that actually goes into aligning the boards and tracks in a practical manner. Personally, without experience of my own yet, I'd use smaller skrews to solder the tracks to perhaps, to make it even harder to detect.
Also: would it be useful in any way to use the connectors that you use to align the board also for conveying power from one board to an other?
Great videos! Quality and clarity is right up there with the likes of Sam's Trains!
Hi there, really glad you found the video helpful! You could potentially use smaller screws, I just think the larger contact area to solder the rail too is helpful as well as the depth going into the baseboard frame makes it a really solid joint. Generally these screws get covered up by ballast but I have seen people use copper clad sleepers if they prefer to have everything looking perfect.
You could also use the connectors to transfer the power too. The reason I didn't was mostly for simplicity (it's much easier to resolve any connection issues if it's not built into the frame). But it's definitely possible and I think the layout that inspired this project did indeed transfer power that way.
As always the nice thing about these videos is that they show the way I do it, but they can act as a spring board for others to take the same principles and adapt or improve them for their own uses. Thanks for watching 😃
I can’t tell you how happy I am to have found a series of videos that explain how I’d personally like to do a layout (modular) plus it’s great how you have gone into details on how your doing it 👌 is there any chance I could buy some of them end templates you have had made up ?
Fantastic, that's great to hear Michael. I'm always happy to share my progress on the layout with everyone and hopefully give people some ideas.
At the moment I'm not able to sell the endplates but they're fairly simple to draw in CAD - or many of the laser cutting companies can help with design too. Thanks for watching 😃
That is such a good concept!
Thanks! Not a totally new idea but I did sort of adapt things I'd seen previously to suit my own needs.Thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic idea 💡 thanks for sharing 🙏
Thanks! I can't take all the credit as it's based off techniques I've seen on similar layouts but I've made it my own to a certain extent. Thanks for watching 😃
Great video followed most of your tips in your videos however missed this one and now my boards dont match up, my mistake connection dowls you mention now on order. Once again many thanks
Ah yeah, they're pretty crucial for getting the tracks to align properly each time. Thanks for watching 😃
Great series. Well done! I have really enjoyed watching all the episodes and am now starting to make my own modular layout, although I haven't got very far yet! Can you tell me what material the endplates are made from, and how thick they are?
Really glad you've enjoyed the series. My endplates are 3mm thick hardboard - the material doesn't matter so much as the thickness.
If you're going to have them rise up above the level of the baseboard like I did, I would actually make them even thicker in hindsight. This will stop them flexing back and forth so much when you add the scenery. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic vid, thanks!
Thanks Kieran, really glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching 😃
thank you for such an inspiring set of videos, i am just in the process of starting my layout after many years of it being stored away, i really like the idea of the modular system you have go there, where could i find the place you purchased the endboards from? thanks Liam
Thanks Liam, really glad to hear you’ve been enjoying the videos - there’s lots more coming next year! The endplates are custom so we’re designed by me but I used LaserLab.co.uk to get them actually made, though it’s worth searching around other laser cutters online to see who can do the best price. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thanks will check them out
Very helpful! What a great idea to use brass screws are so much better than the copper clad, I’ve now switched to brass screws instead permanently now! Thanks for the idea. Also what solder do you use?
My pleasure, I definitely find them more sturdy as they anchor into the wood of the frame. Generally I use 0.8mm lead free solder but honestly I tend to go with whatever's available. Thanks for watching 👍
G'day mate amazing video and using lasercut ends is very clever might try it out if i have to rebuild my layout hope ur keeping safe and seasons greetings
Thanks, they’ve certainly worked well for me! Best of luck with your own layout and thanks for watching 😃
Are you sharing the end plate designs or any guides on how to make our own? I think its a brilliant idea but have no idea where to start!
I'm not able to make them available currently but you can see the basic design from the video. I had no idea about any of this stuff at this point either but through trial and error I got there. They were basically designed in Adobe Illustrator and sent off to a laser cutting service from there. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@ThatModelRailwayGuy it does thank you. Fortunately I do know how to use illustrator but was wondering how you got it to scale / size etc.
This is cool
Thanks! It took a bit of planning but I’m really pleased with the results. Thanks for watching 😊
This series is inspiring me to think about building my.own layout. Two questions though if you don't mind. Firstly, what do you sit your baseboards on? Secondly, how do you go about designing the end bits of the baseboards?
Thank you!
Hi there, the modules all sit on A frames legs from B&Q, I bought a load when I was starting the project but I think they've gone up in price now. The endplates were drawn out in Adobe Illustrator but any vector graphic software will work. The important bit is to follow the specifications set by whoever is doing the actual laser cutting. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I like the look of the end plates do you sell them by any chance?
I don't but there's nothing to stop you doing what I did, which is create a design and have a company cut them for you. Thanks for watching 😃
This is epic may I suggest that you see if some traintubers and people of your and others community would be interested in building parts of a railway system and then hosting them in a hall for the public sort of thing as it does happen but you could sell the end plates and maybe create more diverse world's ??? I think it would be coll
Cool
Thanks! It's a possibility but Freemo generally seems to be the most popular standard so if people wanted to build part of a modular layout that would be their best bet really. Never say never though! Thanks for watching 👍
Hi there! Your video series have inspired me to make my own module layout! Thanks for what you do!
I'm not sure if you still see these comments since this vid is a tad old, but if you don't mind me asking, what kind of hardware do you use to connect the baseboards? I can't seem to find anything similar to use for my baseboards. Thank you!
That’s awesome, really glad to hear these videos have inspired you! I use M6 bolts to hold the baseboards together and alignment dowels to keep the boards and track aligned correctly. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Yo, I searched up the FREEMO thing and I found a model railroad club like 10-20 minutes away from me!
Awesome, always nice when that happens! Thanks for watching 😃
Is the file that you created for creating the endplates available for other people? Loving the series. Thanks
Hi Neil, not currently but it is something I'm looking into possibly being able to release in the future. Thanks for watching 😃
Great Video Series and love the modular approach. I was wondering what software did you use to create your endboards as I am looking to do something similar and could do it by hand but know that I would not be able to get them to align correctly.
Thanks Matt, really glad to hear you're enjoying the videos! I created mine in Adobe Illustrator but I think any software capable of drawing vector graphics should be fine. A lot of the time the laser cutting companies will suggest compatible programs that you can design you parts in along with instructions on how to set them up to be cut correctly. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I'm going modular too, but my methods are nowhere near as refined. I will need to be able to store my boards under the bed, so they are 70" x 24" (179 cm x 60 cm). There are four of these and two inserts on the edge of 31" x 15" (79 x 38 cm). Mine will have to fit in a specific way because of the layout design. Had I come across your stream sooner, I would have adopted your approaches. Will follow this project of yours with great interest! How do you join the electrics?
Ah brilliant, your modules are a bit bigger than mine then! Best of luck with your own layout build 👍 I’ll go into detail on the electrics in the future but the quick version is the track is fed by bus wires under each module which have connectors on each end to transfer the power to next baseboard. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy If only you could use the connecting bolts or dowels for the two bus wires - just a thought. I'll need more than those, I have signals too 🤔. Fortunately all the points are DCC controlled, so the point motors or controllers can get their power etc from the bus.
People have done that but I thought it was about beyond me 😂 Yeah I know what you mean about point and signal wiring. Luckily for me I’ve managed to keep most of it just two modules so I can cut down on extra wires.
Hi, great video about aligning the track across the baseboard joints. This video is the only one I have seen so far, as you cut the track BEFORE soldering to the screws. I find this way better as well (more confident with track cutting this way), but doing so is this not more risky than first solder on both sides and at the very end cut the track?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Yes it is more risky doing it this way but because I'm building each module one at a time (and because I want them to all be interchangeable) I don't have the option of laying the track over the join and then cutting the rails.
If you were building a more traditional portable/exhibition layout that is only intended to be setup in one particular way though, then I'd highly recommend you solder the track across the join first and then cut the rails. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Many thanks for confirming this.
You could publish the end plate plans and create a new UK standard for modular layouts, so if we ever get exhibitions again others Could connect to yours.
I have thought about that but there's a few modular groups out there already so if people really wanted to join up with other layouts they'd probably be better off building to those standards instead. Thanks for watching 😃
so in freemo you can have non flat end sections so long as they are intended only to join to your own module. So you can create your own mountain range scene that's broken up over 3-4 modules as long as they're intended to always be together. The flatness is a bit of a bummer but that's somewhat the nature of the game unfortunately
Yes that was kind of what I was talking about when I said you can do whatever you like in between but the ends where you join onto others modules are always flat.
For me that wouldn't really work, partly because I wanted to have as much flexibility as possible when setting the layout up in different configurations but also because, in the grand scheme of things, my layout is probably much smaller than most Freemo style layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi, great information and help for a newbie here! Thank you!! I am seriously considering this method for TT:120 but want to have both radius 2 and 3 which would mean the track centres are at 310mm and 353mm. I’m propose to build 40cm wide modules which would mean the boards would only fit one way around and I would need to go to the straight end profile. Then probably use multiples of 40… I was thinking about going from the curve onto a straight at the corner joint, do you see any issues with joining on the curve end? Thanks…
Hi Mark, the concept of a modular model railway should work in any scale, not just 00. It's all down to the planning and it sounds like you've got a good idea of what you want already and have been thinking about how to achieve it.
While my layout is fully modular (ie: all the modules are interchangeable and reversible) there is also the option of build a portable layout which still breaks down into sections but is only assembled in one particular way. That might be another potential option for you if you have multiple running lines and you want to keep things consistent. Thanks for watching 😃
Btw I did love this video
Glad to hear it 😃
how do you ensure electrical connectivity between the modules please?
Hi there, I have wires underneath the baseboards to feed the tracks with connectors on each end to pass power along to the next module. I cover this in a bit more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/IFPBPS6nOMU/видео.html Thanks for watching 😃
Where did you get the alignment dowels? And is there a brand name?
Hi there, these are the ones I used I think: amzn.to/39X1YPD
Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Hi! I've just started watching your videos and I'm really enjoying them! I was just wondering how you were doing the wiring for your boards and carrying the power from one board to another? I may have simply missed it, but I'm curious as to how you're going about the electrics.
Thanks, really glad to hear that! I touched on the wiring for the modular layout very briefly in the latest episode but a lot of people have been asking similar questions so it's definitely something I'll be going into more detail in during a future episode.
Essentially though the track is fed from bus wires under each module and these have connectors on each end to join up to the bus wires on the next module. As I say I show all this in detail in the next episode but hope that helps in the meantime and thanks for watching 😃
Love these tutorials, I’m just setting up my modular system, can you help with company who cut you joining templates, having trouble finding someone who can do them for me. Thanks
Hi there, these days I tend to cut my own but before I had a laser cutter I used both Laser Lab and RazorLAB for the custom cutting. I did use other places as well - basically I would shop around for the cheapest price. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
where do you get your alignment dowels ?
Hi Dave, there's a link to them in the description 😉 Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍
How wide are your end plates
Hi Callum, 50cm to match the width of my modular baseboards but you could make them to any size really. Thanks for watching 😃
What's the name of the steel bullet bits to align the boards?
Hi Kevin, they’re called Alignment Dowels. I got mine from Station Road Baseboards. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thank you
Do you recommend using screws and solder even when not using flexi track over joins?
Hmm, that's a tricky one as I've never used set track over baseboard joints and I'm not entirely sure how it would work in practice. The point of soldering the rails to the screws is not only to keep them properly aligned but also to protect them from getting damaged when the boards are disconnected. If set track is more robust and doesn't need that extra protection it may not be necessary but it's not the way I would personally go about doing it. Thanks for watching 😃
Where did you get the end plates laser cut from?
Hi Neil, I used LaserLab.co.uk but there's plenty of companies out there doing this so I'd say have a look round and find out which one is best for you. Thanks for watching 😃
What are the brand of the bullet connectors?
Hi Matthew, I'm not sure if these are a particular brand but I got mine from Station Road Baseboards. They have lots of different sizes and configurations so plenty of options to explore. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
question how does the track get power?
Hey there, I show this in Episode 6 so you may want to check out that episode for more info: ruclips.net/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/видео.html
Thanks for watching 😃
thx
No problem! Thanks for watching 😃
Is this DCC or DC? Also how are you connecting each module for electric as I'm designing a small module layout that can be stored in storage boxes and it will be DC, but I have so many ways of thinking on how it should be done (connector blocks, plug n pin etc) also subscribed as very useful series
Hi Tommy, at the moment the layout is wired for DC but I'll hopefully I'll be adding DCC into the mix soon and the plan is to be able to switch between the two.
There's been a few other comments lately asking about how I'm wiring everything, so I'll definitely go into this in more detail in the next episode. Really glad you're enjoying the series and thanks for watching and subscribing 😃
Hi again - who did you say the company was who did your board ends?, were they expensive ??. Regards, Chris.
Hi Chris, I used laserlab.co.uk but I'd recommended having a look around at other companies too as you might find a better deal. I went with them just because my endplates needed to be quite wide and they had a standard sheet size that was big enough. I think it cost about £20 to get 5-6 made. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
But if the rails between boards aren't actually connected, how do you carry power from board to board?
There's a set of bus wires under every board with connectors on that link all the modules together electrically. The power to the rails is then fed from the bus wires on each module meaning I get really reliable power all over the layout.
Check out this section from a later episode to see it in a bit more detail: ruclips.net/video/4DRru5pxEfQ/видео.html
Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Just watched the video! Really like this series, learning a lot of interesting techniques. Thank you!
Making sure to watch the rest of the series now before asking too many more questions.
XD
Are you able to share the name of the company you used to make the end plates? Also how did you design the end plates and what did you use to do so? Thanks
Hi there, I used a company called Laser Lab who do custom laser cutting. The endplates were designed in Adobe Illustrator to the specifications set out by Laser Lab and then I sent the files over to them for cutting. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Do you remember how much you paid?
You should post amazon affiliate links to what you're using. I'm looking for the guide dowels but can't find what I'm looking for
I'm actually working on getting links sorted soon, although unfortunately most specialist model railway items aren't available through Amazon. Try StationRoadBaseboards.co.uk instead for the alignment dowels, that's where I got mine. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
I think those laser cut boards are ideal. Do you sell them, or would you make them available for sale please. If not are you willing to share the drawings and supplier to save me (and other followers) the work to be able to use the idea. Thanks, Brian
Hi Brian, I don't currently sell the module endplates but it is something I'm looking at so I'm hoping to make them available in the future. Thanks for watching 😃
One thing, fremo is european an means ,,Freundeskreis europäischer modellbahner ''
Yes but also used extensively by American HO modellers which is what I was referencing in the video. Thanks for watching 😃
you should have used proper flux on those screws and at the time of soldering the rails to them
Hi there, if I remember correctly I did use flux. You just don't see it in the video. Thanks for watching 😃
First
You're making a habit of this 😆
4 th
🤣 You're still just as welcome!
Instead of saying 0 0, just say double 0
I mean, it doesn’t really matter since they mean the same thing, so I use both. The next thing will be someone wanting me to clarify between double 0 and Dublo! 😂 Thanks for watching 👍