Thanks Tim, ooh now there's an idea. I wonder if I could devise something that incorporates the kickback siding in front of the signal box too 🤔 Thanks for watching 👍
That turned out really nice. How you ended up doing it saves clay. The building turned out great too. Can't wait to see it with interior and lights done will look fantastic I bet. Thanks for showing how you did that. The engines looked HAPPY in there. GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Thanks Lois, yeah I'm really pleased with the shed too! Still needs a bit of weathering as it's a bit clean at the moment but I can't wait to get an interior in there too. I think the engines are definitely happy to not have their shed held together by blu-tac anymore! 😆 Thanks for watching 👍
Really good insight on this, I have a Rapido J70 and wondered abou the best way to go about construting a tramway when I get my layout properly underway
Ah fantastic, yeah this technique should be perfect for constructing a tramway for the J70. I have to admit it's making me want to have a go at a layout like that myself now! Thanks for watching 😃
This looks great! I live the ending shot of the two engines in the shed. I bought DAS clay for my own engine shed a few weeks ago, so I’ll definitely be using some of these techniques when I finally get around to building it!
Hey Will, yeah I love the end shots too. Really gives the feeling of a working loco shed already. Glad to hear you'll be giving it a go yourself. Best of luck and thanks for watching 😃
That was great work you done. I've used Das Clay on track work before, and the results are always good, I'm glad you used the clay and not the filler, and the end result looked fantastic, well done 😀👍🏻
Thanks Adam, yeah I just didn't get on with the filler this time. It worked great on the platform surfaces but I couldn't control it enough around the rails which is why I ultimately went with the clay. I think it looks much better too! Thanks for watching 😃
That was great. I just finished putting an hard standing in my two loc sheds using card . What a pain that was. Now I think I will take it all up and replace it as you have with plasticard and modelling clay.
Thanks Bruce, yeah I considered using card too initially but I discounted it because I though it would be really tricky to cut it to the correct sizes. If you do decide to redo it the clay is definitely very easy to work with and I think gives it a more realistic texture in the end too. Thanks for watching 😃
I’m using the same method on my Cambrian Street layout, save for the fact that I’ve used real loco ash ground down in a coffee grinder to cost the surface, smells great too!
I did something similar later on in this layout build for the rest of the yard. Hardstanding inside the shed, ash surface for the roads/yard leading into it. Really nice effect! Best of luck with your own layout and thanks for watching 😃
Thanks! If you're worried maybe have a go on a small off cut of track first - but the clay is very easy to work with and you get some time to adjust it too if you keep it wet. Thanks for watching 😃
May I suggest a clay roller/ rolling pin to get a nice smooth surface for the clay on the plastarcard? You can find them in your cooking section or with any playdough sets that have them
That turned out awesome! Great idea with the clay, I never thought of that, I will try it on my layout for a road crossing. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Thanks Ken! The clay definitely wasn't an original idea on my part, I'm sure I've seen others use it in similar ways, but it did turn out really well. Hope it works for your crossing too and thanks for watching 😃
In my train club we use drywall spackle or drywall joint compound (same thing) . If you have a large area (club has many), it comes in 5 lb. (2kg) buckets at home centers. Advantage is it can be applied with a spreader or small trowel (plastic or metal), use a damp sponge to smoothen or clean up, run a car to clear flangeways, allow to fully dry , then sand with fine scouring pads which will clean but won't scratch the rail tops. On turnouts you can make a plastic dam/shield to keep the points & moving rail clear.. My club does industrial areas, in shed floors & streets/roads with this stuff. Best part, you can use thinned economical latex house paint to paint a street or concert color & will make it fairly durable. You can scribe cracks in it easily. If you have the patience, carve cobble stones or make a press jig. We've coated a foam viaduct for concrete. A damp sponge will easily weather the crack. Make a mistake you can fill in with some spackle. We've have also thinned this stuff & brushed on as mortar & non thinned to simulate peeling concrete covering bricks. I use sculpting tools to tweak flangeways, clear frogs, & to create imperfections & street patch work.
That looks really good! I used hobbycraft foam for my inset track as it is easy to cut and takes paint well. I do have some more inset track on another layout so I might give your method a go.
Hey Robert, that's another awesome way of doing it. Yeah I imagine it's very easy to cut to shape. Glad you're interested in giving the clay method a go too though. Thanks for watching 😃
I used a filler and plaster of paris combination,I also used a old Triang wagon one with thicker wheel flanges. It was nothing but nightmares getting locos to run on the track again. I vowed would never do hardstanding again . But after this great tutorial video I might give it another bash on my next layout. Thanks TMRG, Borgy
Hey Leigh, yeah I just found the filler to unpredictable and I think I probably would have run into the same problem you did. In comparison the clay was much easier to control and get out of the areas I didn’t want it. Best of luck if you do have another go and thanks for watching 😃
For my hard standing I use pvc foamboard (foamex). Exists in 2 mm and 3 mm. I use the 2 mm for the top and fill the tie height with strips of wood. I always bevel the edges on the rail sides 45 degrees to clear the tie chairs. Also the foamex can be easily carved (concrete slabs, brick etc.) and painted with acrylics as enamels. I use it also often to make concrete roads and parking lots, as well as buildings with hand carved stonework. I know 4Dmodels in London (near Tower Bridge) seuls the stuff. Ah, and for fine coal ash or cinder ballast, I use charcoal pellets for insence used by priests. Grinded it gets the perfect consistency, and also it's cheap. I even use it grinded roughly to make coal loads for my tenders, mixed with crushed coal from a local mine still operating as a museum. Result is quite good.
Great ideas Eric! I’m actually going to be using foamboard in very similar way for another area later on in the build so good to know that there are others out there using similar techniques. My reasoning for using the DAS clay in this instance was to create a solid surface (since the layout is portable and may take a knock in the future) but also so that I could demonstrate two different techniques on the channel rather than show the same thing twice 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Looks great and a good idea to use plasticard to save on weight. I'm a big fan of air dried clay for surfaces. Intriguing you didn't use any glue to fix the clay down. One thing I did with buildings which sit on clay was to press them into it and then remove while it dries, which helps to make it look like the building is planted into the ground.
Thanks! Yeah in hindsight I probably should have used glue but so far there's no signs of the clay going anywhere 🤞 I'm actually planning on doing something similar myself when I get the shed finished. I'll just add a thin strip of clay round the perimeter of the building to push it down into and then paint it to blend it in with the rest of the surface. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks Shaun, haha good point the P Class is an excellent runner. I'm happy to report though that the tiny Hornby Ruston runs along both lines with no issues at all. Thanks for watching 😃
Great video mate. I have to say that looks really good especially conidering its modelling clay that was used it gave a nice realistic effect with the surface it left as well as the painting. I ended up using poly filler for my one you just have to mix it up so its not too runny. Love the shed too. - Nicholas.
Thanks Nicholas, I'm really pleased with how it turned out and the paint has definitely worked well to give it that worn hardstanding effect. Good to know polyfiller can work too, I think there's loads of ways to do it and it's just finding out which techniques work best for you. Thanks for watching 😃
Yeah it really does make a huge difference. Since I filmed this I've got the lights wired up inside the shed too and it's just crying out for a really detailed interior! Thanks for watching 😃
Really good and informative video. DAZ is great for that kind of work. I like to use a decorator scraper with some moisture applied just as the DAZ starts to set. It helps with smoothing and levelling. I am always in favour of anything that removes the sterile look from any diorama, regardless of what sits on it.
Awesome, some great tips there. I definitely think I'll be using it again on other parts of the layout but given this was my first time using it I'm also pretty pleased with the results. At least I didn't just completely ruin my track 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
if you have scatter or anything thats a bit too glossy... get hold of the Vallejo model _air_ matt varnish, the airbrush version matters, don't worry about not having one, shake it and brush it on, this stuff has a very matt finish and is very thing so flows really well
Good to know Adam! I think considering the DAS Clay isn't too expensive though I'll probably stick to that - but great info for those on a really tight budget. Thanks for watching 😃
Yeah I was worried about doing this on the layout but doing the test piece before hand was really useful to gain confidence and see how the clay worked. Really glad I did it though, I think it looks great too! Thanks for watching 😃
Looks like the clay up to the level of the sleepers, could be finished in a mud/grime look for "industrial" sidings, where not so much ballast is being used.
Yeah I thought the same. Clay up to the sleepers, messy ballast on top and a bit of static grass too to make it really overgrown. Thanks for watching 😃
Really nice work there. Certainly looks the part. I may come back to this when I do my shed area. What thickness of plasticard were you using there? Cheers
Thanks, yeah I'm really pleased with the results! I think it was 3mm plasticard (so quite thick) but really anything to build up the height between the roads will do. Thanks for watching 😃
I've been thinking, a truly modular railway could have each modules edge have fabric based flexible landscaping, all held up by lots of tiny metal pins to hold a form, the pins could move up and down on the Z axis. Wonder if this is possible?
Interesting idea Adam, although I have to admit my experience with modular model railways only extends to what I've build so far. Personally I've found having a solid edge and the end of each module has really helps make the scenery more robust which is definitely handy when you're moving the layout around a lot. That's not to say it wouldn't work though. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi John, no major updates other than to say production of the next batch is still underway. Once I've built up enough stock I'll make a proper announcement. As a channel member you'll have the opportunity to place an order ahead of everyone else. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 🤩
Hello this is a very beautiful, amazing video... 😊👍I have subscribe your Chanel.. I love landscape modelling.. Sorry my Englisch.. Greetings from Switzerland Alex 😊😊👍👍🇨🇭
I’ve read that air dry clay shrinks a bit when it dries and I thought that with the thick clay between the rails and the large thin areas between the tracks it would be a problem. Be interested in hearing if you’ve noticed any shrinkage. Thanks for the video.
Yeah I imagine clay does shrink as the moisture leaves it and certainly with a large area like this I was worried about cracks appearing. I'm happy to report that there's been no visible shrinkage or cracking since the video was filmed a few weeks ago though. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy I feel like a few cracks could help it look a little realistic if you weather it properly and if the cracks are too big and unrealistic then you could always fill it slightly
Yep, definitely a good option for those who don't want to do it with clay. I decided against it partially because I wasn't keen on the large gaps for the flanges (I wanted something a bit more subtle) but mostly because one of the roads into my shed has a curve which I don't think would work with the Scale Model Scenery kit. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks, it certainly turned out very well for me. There's loads of different ways of doing it but I definitely found that using clay gave the best results all round 👍
Hey Duncan, points are more tricky as of course you need the blades to move. You could still fill in the area around the outside of the point (taking care around the tie bar of course) and up to the blades using clay but perhaps use card cut to the exact size between the blades themselves in order to allow them to still move side to side. It's a bit tricky to explain in a comment but hopefully that makes sense. Thanks for watching 😃
I used 1.5mm thickness but obviously it will depend on what scale you're working in, what code rail you have on your layout and how much your want to fill up the gap. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
Great work. Looking forward to seeing it being used as part of the next shunting challenge.
Thanks Tim, ooh now there's an idea. I wonder if I could devise something that incorporates the kickback siding in front of the signal box too 🤔 Thanks for watching 👍
That turned out really nice. How you ended up doing it saves clay. The building turned out great too. Can't wait to see it with interior and lights done will look fantastic I bet. Thanks for showing how you did that. The engines looked HAPPY in there.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Thanks Lois, yeah I'm really pleased with the shed too! Still needs a bit of weathering as it's a bit clean at the moment but I can't wait to get an interior in there too. I think the engines are definitely happy to not have their shed held together by blu-tac anymore! 😆 Thanks for watching 👍
Really good insight on this, I have a Rapido J70 and wondered abou the best way to go about construting a tramway when I get my layout properly underway
Ah fantastic, yeah this technique should be perfect for constructing a tramway for the J70. I have to admit it's making me want to have a go at a layout like that myself now! Thanks for watching 😃
This looks great! I live the ending shot of the two engines in the shed. I bought DAS clay for my own engine shed a few weeks ago, so I’ll definitely be using some of these techniques when I finally get around to building it!
Hey Will, yeah I love the end shots too. Really gives the feeling of a working loco shed already. Glad to hear you'll be giving it a go yourself. Best of luck and thanks for watching 😃
That was great work you done. I've used Das Clay on track work before, and the results are always good, I'm glad you used the clay and not the filler, and the end result looked fantastic, well done 😀👍🏻
Thanks Adam, yeah I just didn't get on with the filler this time. It worked great on the platform surfaces but I couldn't control it enough around the rails which is why I ultimately went with the clay. I think it looks much better too! Thanks for watching 😃
That was great. I just finished putting an hard standing in my two loc sheds using card . What a pain that was. Now I think I will take it all up and replace it as you have with plasticard and modelling clay.
Thanks Bruce, yeah I considered using card too initially but I discounted it because I though it would be really tricky to cut it to the correct sizes. If you do decide to redo it the clay is definitely very easy to work with and I think gives it a more realistic texture in the end too. Thanks for watching 😃
I’m using the same method on my Cambrian Street layout, save for the fact that I’ve used real loco ash ground down in a coffee grinder to cost the surface, smells great too!
I did something similar later on in this layout build for the rest of the yard. Hardstanding inside the shed, ash surface for the roads/yard leading into it. Really nice effect! Best of luck with your own layout and thanks for watching 😃
Excellent. Gives me confidence to have a go on my goods yard
Thanks! If you're worried maybe have a go on a small off cut of track first - but the clay is very easy to work with and you get some time to adjust it too if you keep it wet. Thanks for watching 😃
Sweet , have some DAS clay and now have a reason to use it ! Lovely Hattons P Class too...
Brilliant, best of luck with it Michael! Yes I agree the P Class does look stunning, especially in this livery. Thanks for watching 😃
May I suggest a clay roller/ rolling pin to get a nice smooth surface for the clay on the plastarcard? You can find them in your cooking section or with any playdough sets that have them
Ooh good idea! If I ever do this again I think I'll definitely try that out. Thanks for watching 😃
You can also roll a fine texture into the surface if you want that.
That turned out awesome! Great idea with the clay, I never thought of that, I will try it on my layout for a road crossing. Thanks for sharing and stay safe. Ken
Thanks Ken! The clay definitely wasn't an original idea on my part, I'm sure I've seen others use it in similar ways, but it did turn out really well. Hope it works for your crossing too and thanks for watching 😃
In my train club we use drywall spackle or drywall joint compound (same thing) . If you have a large area (club has many), it comes in 5 lb. (2kg) buckets at home centers. Advantage is it can be applied with a spreader or small trowel (plastic or metal), use a damp sponge to smoothen or clean up, run a car to clear flangeways, allow to fully dry , then sand with fine scouring pads which will clean but won't scratch the rail tops. On turnouts you can make a plastic dam/shield to keep the points & moving rail clear.. My club does industrial areas, in shed floors & streets/roads with this stuff. Best part, you can use thinned economical latex house paint to paint a street or concert color & will make it fairly durable. You can scribe cracks in it easily. If you have the patience, carve cobble stones or make a press jig. We've coated a foam viaduct for concrete. A damp sponge will easily weather the crack. Make a mistake you can fill in with some spackle. We've have also thinned this stuff & brushed on as mortar & non thinned to simulate peeling concrete covering bricks. I use sculpting tools to tweak flangeways, clear frogs, & to create imperfections & street patch work.
Awesome. That definitely sounds like a great way of doing it if you need to cover a large area! Thanks for watching 😃
That looks really good! I used hobbycraft foam for my inset track as it is easy to cut and takes paint well. I do have some more inset track on another layout so I might give your method a go.
Hey Robert, that's another awesome way of doing it. Yeah I imagine it's very easy to cut to shape. Glad you're interested in giving the clay method a go too though. Thanks for watching 😃
I used a filler and plaster of paris combination,I also used a old Triang wagon one with thicker wheel flanges. It was nothing but nightmares getting locos to run on the track again. I vowed would never do hardstanding again . But after this great tutorial video I might give it another bash on my next layout. Thanks TMRG, Borgy
Hey Leigh, yeah I just found the filler to unpredictable and I think I probably would have run into the same problem you did. In comparison the clay was much easier to control and get out of the areas I didn’t want it. Best of luck if you do have another go and thanks for watching 😃
For my hard standing I use pvc foamboard (foamex). Exists in 2 mm and 3 mm. I use the 2 mm for the top and fill the tie height with strips of wood. I always bevel the edges on the rail sides 45 degrees to clear the tie chairs. Also the foamex can be easily carved (concrete slabs, brick etc.) and painted with acrylics as enamels. I use it also often to make concrete roads and parking lots, as well as buildings with hand carved stonework.
I know 4Dmodels in London (near Tower Bridge) seuls the stuff.
Ah, and for fine coal ash or cinder ballast, I use charcoal pellets for insence used by priests. Grinded it gets the perfect consistency, and also it's cheap. I even use it grinded roughly to make coal loads for my tenders, mixed with crushed coal from a local mine still operating as a museum. Result is quite good.
Great ideas Eric! I’m actually going to be using foamboard in very similar way for another area later on in the build so good to know that there are others out there using similar techniques.
My reasoning for using the DAS clay in this instance was to create a solid surface (since the layout is portable and may take a knock in the future) but also so that I could demonstrate two different techniques on the channel rather than show the same thing twice 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Looks great and a good idea to use plasticard to save on weight. I'm a big fan of air dried clay for surfaces. Intriguing you didn't use any glue to fix the clay down.
One thing I did with buildings which sit on clay was to press them into it and then remove while it dries, which helps to make it look like the building is planted into the ground.
Thanks! Yeah in hindsight I probably should have used glue but so far there's no signs of the clay going anywhere 🤞
I'm actually planning on doing something similar myself when I get the shed finished. I'll just add a thin strip of clay round the perimeter of the building to push it down into and then paint it to blend it in with the rest of the surface. Thanks for watching 😃
This is a very helpful video - thanks and best wishes.
My pleasure Barry, really glad it helped you and thanks for watching 😃
Fantastic technique.
Thanks! I'm really pleased with how it turned out considering I wasn't entirely sure how this would go 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Great video as ever - very informative. Might be worth checking the old pug or something like that, that P class would work under water cheers Shaun
Thanks Shaun, haha good point the P Class is an excellent runner. I'm happy to report though that the tiny Hornby Ruston runs along both lines with no issues at all. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy brill, thats 100% pass then
Thanks for this viewing I'm going to attempt this for a level crossing in n gauge.
Many thanks
Harry
Awesome, hope it goes well and thanks for watching 😃
Great video mate. I have to say that looks really good especially conidering its modelling clay that was used it gave a nice realistic effect with the surface it left as well as the painting. I ended up using poly filler for my one you just have to mix it up so its not too runny. Love the shed too. - Nicholas.
Thanks Nicholas, I'm really pleased with how it turned out and the paint has definitely worked well to give it that worn hardstanding effect. Good to know polyfiller can work too, I think there's loads of ways to do it and it's just finding out which techniques work best for you. Thanks for watching 😃
Ha! First to comment! The concrete hardstanding for the shed realy completes the look,keep up the good work
Yeah it really does make a huge difference. Since I filmed this I've got the lights wired up inside the shed too and it's just crying out for a really detailed interior! Thanks for watching 😃
Great info, helps with my growing layout
My pleasure Jack, glad you found it useful! Best of luck with your own layout and thanks for watching 😃
Really good and informative video. DAZ is great for that kind of work. I like to use a decorator scraper with some moisture applied just as the DAZ starts to set. It helps with smoothing and levelling. I am always in favour of anything that removes the sterile look from any diorama, regardless of what sits on it.
Awesome, some great tips there. I definitely think I'll be using it again on other parts of the layout but given this was my first time using it I'm also pretty pleased with the results. At least I didn't just completely ruin my track 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Do a Thomas The Tank Engine on one of your sets/layouts
You know, one day I would love to do a Thomas/Railway Series themed layout. Thanks for watching 😃
bravisimo un saluto d all ITALIA..... bellissimi lavori
Thank you! So glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching 😃
This has helped me so much it's unbelievable thank you very much 😊😊😊😊😊
That's really great to hear Ashley! Glad this video was able to help you and best of luck with your own inset track. Thanks for watching 😃
if you have scatter or anything thats a bit too glossy... get hold of the Vallejo model _air_ matt varnish, the airbrush version matters, don't worry about not having one, shake it and brush it on, this stuff has a very matt finish and is very thing so flows really well
Nice tip Dale, I'll keep that in mind if I ever need to give something a matt finish. Thanks for watching 😃
Also you can make this clay with cornflower and a stove
Good to know Adam! I think considering the DAS Clay isn't too expensive though I'll probably stick to that - but great info for those on a really tight budget. Thanks for watching 😃
That looks scary and difficult 😮 but you have got it perfectly right. A really realistic shed floor 👍
Yeah I was worried about doing this on the layout but doing the test piece before hand was really useful to gain confidence and see how the clay worked. Really glad I did it though, I think it looks great too! Thanks for watching 😃
Very nice ☺️
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
Thank you that Is a great idea and it looks outstanding thank you for sharing
My pleasure, glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching! 😃
Looks like the clay up to the level of the sleepers, could be finished in a mud/grime look for "industrial" sidings, where not so much ballast is being used.
Yeah I thought the same. Clay up to the sleepers, messy ballast on top and a bit of static grass too to make it really overgrown. Thanks for watching 😃
Really nice work there. Certainly looks the part. I may come back to this when I do my shed area.
What thickness of plasticard were you using there?
Cheers
Thanks, yeah I'm really pleased with the results! I think it was 3mm plasticard (so quite thick) but really anything to build up the height between the roads will do. Thanks for watching 😃
Great job 🙂👍🏻
Thanks! It's really good to be making some progress with the scenery on this module. Thanks for watching 😃
For ash ballast, why not just collect some from the ash pile after a guarding turn?
Not a bad idea, although usually the end of the day is fairly busy for the Guard 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy true.....just a jar full on your way past the ash pile?
I've been thinking, a truly modular railway could have each modules edge have fabric based flexible landscaping, all held up by lots of tiny metal pins to hold a form, the pins could move up and down on the Z axis. Wonder if this is possible?
Interesting idea Adam, although I have to admit my experience with modular model railways only extends to what I've build so far. Personally I've found having a solid edge and the end of each module has really helps make the scenery more robust which is definitely handy when you're moving the layout around a lot. That's not to say it wouldn't work though. Thanks for watching 😃
Could you use a rolling pin to do the height and large areas?
Possibly, my main concern would not be using so much pressure that you damage the rails at all. Thanks for watching 😃
Love the ash ballast
Me too! The plan is to use that over the rest of the track in the yard. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy looking forward to seeing it
Great modelling advice, thank you. Did the clay stick to the plasticard by itself or did you have to use some adhesive?
Thanks Peter! The clay stuck to the plasticard without any adhesive and so far it doesn't seem to be going anywhere. Thanks for watching 😃
any news on the flexible walls
Hi John, no major updates other than to say production of the next batch is still underway. Once I've built up enough stock I'll make a proper announcement. As a channel member you'll have the opportunity to place an order ahead of everyone else. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 🤩
Hello this is a very beautiful, amazing video... 😊👍I have subscribe your Chanel.. I love landscape modelling.. Sorry my Englisch.. Greetings from Switzerland Alex 😊😊👍👍🇨🇭
Thanks Alex, I'm really glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching and subscribing too 😃
You are welcome 😊😊👍
I’ve read that air dry clay shrinks a bit when it dries and I thought that with the thick clay between the rails and the large thin areas between the tracks it would be a problem. Be interested in hearing if you’ve noticed any shrinkage. Thanks for the video.
Yeah I imagine clay does shrink as the moisture leaves it and certainly with a large area like this I was worried about cracks appearing. I'm happy to report that there's been no visible shrinkage or cracking since the video was filmed a few weeks ago though. Thanks for watching 😃
Good to hear … and thanks for taking the time to read and reply.
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy I feel like a few cracks could help it look a little realistic if you weather it properly and if the cracks are too big and unrealistic then you could always fill it slightly
Try hard standing from scale model scenery it is great.and no mess
Yep, definitely a good option for those who don't want to do it with clay. I decided against it partially because I wasn't keen on the large gaps for the flanges (I wanted something a bit more subtle) but mostly because one of the roads into my shed has a curve which I don't think would work with the Scale Model Scenery kit. Thanks for watching 😃
Where did you get the shed kit? It's just what I've been looking for. Thanks in advance
Hiya, there's a link to it in the description! 😃 Hope that helps and thanks for watching 👍
I KNEW IT!! HAHAH
Good guess Luke! Hope you enjoy the video and it lives up to what you were expecting. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy 100%! I never even thought of doing it this way! Well done!
Thanks, it certainly turned out very well for me. There's loads of different ways of doing it but I definitely found that using clay gave the best results all round 👍
Any advice on how to do points, I’m building a dock scene and want to have inset track but I’ve 3 points to worry about.
Hey Duncan, points are more tricky as of course you need the blades to move. You could still fill in the area around the outside of the point (taking care around the tie bar of course) and up to the blades using clay but perhaps use card cut to the exact size between the blades themselves in order to allow them to still move side to side.
It's a bit tricky to explain in a comment but hopefully that makes sense. Thanks for watching 😃
No mention of what thickness is the plastic card?
I used 1.5mm thickness but obviously it will depend on what scale you're working in, what code rail you have on your layout and how much your want to fill up the gap. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃