I did not have an error code. I did try everything else prior since the radiator was replaced a year ago. I feared the heater core was clogged. It flushed well, so I replaced the thermostat and flushed the engine bay as well. So, with the issue still present, I decided to try the blender door. Everything went as excepted. I did have to remove the navigation module below the radio to help with accessing the bolts. Nice to have heat and my cold air again. $29 fix. Having something to back the 8mm bolts out with limited movement would have been nice. I used two hands from each side to hold it steady. I know what a surgeon feels like now. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the excellent video. I ordered my replacement part for my Ford 2006 F150 from Amazon. I received the correct part, installed it, and it works! I now have full control over my temperatures. However, the install was much harder than this video showed, as my vehicle was Ford F-150, 2006 truck. Two of the three actuator-bolts were on the right side. I couldn’t see nor reach them through the open radio pull-out slot. I had to go through the glove box. However, I still couldn’t see the bolts. I had to remove the passenger dash-panel over. (Right below the airbag.) There we’re four bolts, which I had to remove: two bolts were easy to remove, however, two were located halfway up inside the open glove box. Note, this is just below the airbag area. I have large hands; as a result, I struggled with the removal and install. The good news, I was able to do it. Good luck with your replacement. I hope this helps.
I followed this video to replace the blend door actuator in my 2007 F-150 and it worked perfectly! Accessing those three bolts on it sucks but it all worked. Thanks!
Thanks gentlemen! I'll be doing this repair in a few days when my actuator arrives. Your instruction video gives me confidence this will be an easy job!
Excellent video! This tutorial was 100% accurate, and just what I needed to restore the heat in my 2005 F150. You even mentioned what size wrenches to use, which was a big help. That right forward bolt is a bit of a pain, and if I ever have to do this again, I'll be buying an 8mm ratcheting wrench beforehand. Anyway, thanks for a great video!
@@LemurMonitors good video, One question.. is this the same on the 2005 F150 XLT 4.6L? My problem is sometimes the directional control does not change from defrost to floor and such. Or do you have a video for that by chance?
Thank you for saving me $700!!! I did this and my heater now works!!! Hardest part was the screws for the actuator, someone needs to fire the engineers that put this in the truck!!!
Thanks for a great video, should mention that small hands would help. Somehow I ended up removing 4 screws, have no idea where the extra came from! I followed your instructions and it worked!
Ok, for all those wondering about "calibration", the control module performs a calibration every time you cycle the ignition key on. The gear is keyed. It's important to align the keyed portion on the actuator with the slot in the Blend Door (which is inside the housing case). It's very hard to see where the keyed portion is in the housing case, but it should be roughly aligned with the electrical connector (may have to wiggle it back and forth a bit to get it to seat). If your actuator gear's key isn't aligned with the Blend Door's keyed slot, then you can rotate the gear by plugging it into the electrical connector without installing it (hold it or just let it rest in the radio cavity) and cycling the key in the ignition (you'll have to have to battery connected). When you cycle the ignition the gear will rotate about 30 degrees one way, then 30 degrees again the other way - this is the calibration cycle where it senses where the Blend Door's limits are. You can time your ignition cycle to get it to advance a little with each on/off cycle of the ignition, and in this way align the gear's keyed slot with the electrical connector on the actuator. As long as the gear is aligned with the electrical connector on the actuator, you'll be able to get it into the Blend Door's keyed slot and rotate it to get the screws installed. Once you have it installed, turn the truck on, it will perform its calibration cycle to sense the limits of movement, and your temp control should work. I would make a video of this process, but it already took me half a day to figure this out and I have other stuff to do. Good luck. p.s. If you're desperate, you can literally drill a hole in the top of the dashboard at just the right spot, stick a long screwdriver down into the Blend Door gear and change it manually. You can also rip apart the old actuator, take out the gear arm and jam it into the socket to turn it to "hot" to ensure that's working (which is what I did to test all this out).
Yall gotta say something about reconnecting the connector to the actuator!! I was so excited to get the darn thing in i merily skipped on ahead and almost forgot!!
Nice video, straightforward and clear. Big help Update: Your video was fabulous I will say this project is definitely a pain in the hind end getting that third boat was the most difficult thing I’ve done in three years and I repair houses for a living I have heat now I’m so grateful to you guys. I will say this might be one of those projects that are novice handy person would pay someone to do it would be worth $275 labor easily.
Replaced the blend door as instructed. It only blows warm air which is exactly where this all started. I found that I can manually manipulate the blend door using a spindle. Is there a calibration or sensor elsewhere to check?
So is there any calibrating that needs to be done when replacing the actuator? I need to replace mine in my 04 f150 4.6 XL (new body). When I take the old one out, how do I know where the new actuator's little gear needs to be to line up with where the ac/heat selection is already? Is this all done automatically with the truck's computer? You simply removed and replaced. Is that really all there is to it and you don't have to line anything up when installing the new one?
I just recently bought a 05 f150 5.4L I'll be doing this before I even think about getting to the heater core hopefully that's it's thanks for the info
Did you happen to get an answer for your question because I'm dealing with the exact same thing. I plan to check the fuse tomorrow but in the meantime, if you have an answer please let me know. Thanks
I have the same problem on my 2005. No codes ,tried to flush the heater core and made a big mess. Tried forcing air through both hoses and had air going through the head then up into the reservoir. When you changed out your actuator door with no codes did it work and are you still getting heat? Because I might try this.
Is there a position that you need to set first when installing the new blend door actuator? How do you know where to have the temp knob set before installing the new motor? Does it not matter? My problem is my heat is stuck on in my 2004 f150 XL 4.6
Great video, I have heat but when I switch to defrost mode, there is very little air flow. If I turn to cold air while in defrost mode, there is all kinds of air flow. Is it possible something is blocking the hot air flow to the defroster?
There is a trick to reset the actuator by removing fuse #'s 5 and 13. I got the right side blowing hot . . . I hope another 'reset' procedure can get the left side blowing hot again. In your truck, there is another method not requiring removal of the fuses, but you can't do it with an Auto Climate Control system.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH. This tutorial enabled me to replace my actuator. A bit different with the XLT Lariat package, but same procedure. Excellent instructions!
I have a 2008 F-150 XLT 5.4 that I just purchased a couple of months ago. When I would start it up I would hear a creaking sound where the actuator is. One day it was a little cooler than normal and I turned the temp from the blue(cool) to red(hot) now I only have HOT air blowing out at all vent positions. The actuator does not creak any more, would that be the cause of the all heat & no cool?
The question was never answered.. i’ve replaced my blend door and it’s still making the noise as well as blowing out hot air do the gears need to be lined up?
You didn’t mention anything about clocking or orientation. I replaced mine a while back and now get a clicking noise from the actuator at both ends of the range. What did I do wrong.
Buenas tardes amigo, saludos desde Venezuela. me podrías ayudar facilitándome el diagrama eléctrico de la computadora de la f150, 5.4 3v 2007 cabina y media, gracias
Hello Jada! Sadly without being able to see the vehicle and get hands on there wouldn't be much we could do to determine why. If the vehicle has ever been in a accident, even if the frame was pulled stright after things could still be misalinged.
I was told the blend door actuator was my issue but my issue is a little different from the issue you said in the video this fixes. I have no problems with changing temperature, my issue is I can’t get it to blow anywhere but the defrost or windshield only. It won’t change positions to the floor or the dash vents at all. Anyone know what my issue could be?
Sounds like your issue is with the temperature control module. It controls the heat/cool, fan speeds and the direction of where you want the air to go(defroster, mid air, lower air flow).
So I did this. I forgot to disconnect the battery. Now finished, the unit works, although the strange noises persist. But I have a crank no start with a u1900 code. Any ideas?
so i have a question and hoping someone can shed some light on this problem. i have a 2008 Ford F 150 and I am having issues with my AC, the problem is that my cold air works but when i turn on the heater it gets hot on number 1 and 2 but blows cool air on 3 and 4 and was told that it is a blend door actuator issue. But i was looking to get this problem done at a shop but cost a chunk of change then came across this video to help me out with out removing the dash, but i was wondering how many "actuators" are there when it comes to replacing them? Is there one actuator to replace or is there more then one. I know of only 2,the floor one and the top one.
Video is very accurate. I initially installed the new actuator with out screws and then ran the system, it ran great, hot air. Then, somehow, the actuator splined shaft moved and would not line up and seat where i could install the screws. finally figured i would need to move temp controls and make the device move to where it would seat...now, no hot air again...help!!! What should i do? thanks for any help!
You should start the engine, turn the temp all the way to 90° then install the motor and screw it in. If this doesn’t work, take the part off and turn the temp to 60° and try again.
I have replaced my blend door motor 20 times. With out fail after a few months it happens again. At this point i am wondering are there preset positions the motor have to be at? Preset temperature? Preset anything? There is an arrow at the bottom of the motor.. Is the key on the spline shaft supposed to be in line with that arrow? There has to be a reason my spline is jumping out or reason my door always eventually falls shut again ton blast heat relatger than my ac. Help.
If only a 2006 was this easy. This 2004 seems to have room enough for a small apartment above the actuator. The 2006 has barely enough room to slide a wrench through, and zero space for hands. The glove box had to be completely removed and so did the trim plate above it to make access possible at all for the two bolts on the passenger side. Worse yet, it turns out there are two types of actuators, one with a short shaft and one with a longer shaft like the one in this video. Naturally, the parts store sold me the wrong one-just my luck. The cavities exposed under the dash were all coated with dust, and curiously there is no cabin air filter at all for this vehicle. Are the Ford engineers hooked on drugs up there in Detroit or what? Primitive tribes wearing loin cloths in the South Pacific design straw huts with more planning and forethought than the designers of these Ford trucks.
@@JerryEgge if your referring to the trim around the radio, you can use the slimmest thing to slid gently around the trim. I start by opening the ashtray and circling around the trim with my sons ipad case opener, just like they did in this video.
@@qbienemy4663 Hello, thanks for your reply. No I wasn’t referring to the trim around the radio. I was able to remove it just fine. I had to also remove the trim around the glove box in order to get at all the bolts. I got it done, but it was a pain.
@@JerryEgge Hey Jerry, sorry I misunderstood, quick question, did it work for you? I literally removed the entire glove box when changing the part but unfort.. that whole change was for nothing because it still doesn't work!
Any suggestions on what to try next or anything you did different from me? I took the battery loose, removed everything, put in the new part and placed everything back to how it was, started the truck, and tried the eater, set there for a while, even took a drive and it still is not working properly.
Not accurate. I followed this video step for step. The dash has to come off!! The screws are in tight spot. If you notice he said, “after finally getting the screws out”. Exactly!!!!
You need to give up your tools and go to a shop. I just did this following the instructions in the video. It took me 20 minutes only because I lost the back bolt and had to fish it out.
I would have given a rave review if you would have just done one thing... State "The bolt through the glove box is a bitch" shredded some fore arm skin getting that one out.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I did not have an error code. I did try everything else prior since the radiator was replaced a year ago. I feared the heater core was clogged. It flushed well, so I replaced the thermostat and flushed the engine bay as well. So, with the issue still present, I decided to try the blender door.
Everything went as excepted. I did have to remove the navigation module below the radio to help with accessing the bolts.
Nice to have heat and my cold air again. $29 fix. Having something to back the 8mm bolts out with limited movement would have been nice. I used two hands from each side to hold it steady. I know what a surgeon feels like now.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the excellent video. I ordered my replacement part for my Ford 2006 F150 from Amazon. I received the correct part, installed it, and it works! I now have full control over my temperatures. However, the install was much harder than this video showed, as my vehicle was Ford F-150, 2006 truck. Two of the three actuator-bolts were on the right side. I couldn’t see nor reach them through the open radio pull-out slot. I had to go through the glove box. However, I still couldn’t see the bolts. I had to remove the passenger dash-panel over. (Right below the airbag.) There we’re four bolts, which I had to remove: two bolts were easy to remove, however, two were located halfway up inside the open glove box. Note, this is just below the airbag area. I have large hands; as a result, I struggled with the removal and install. The good news, I was able to do it. Good luck with your replacement. I hope this helps.
I followed this video to replace the blend door actuator in my 2007 F-150 and it worked perfectly! Accessing those three bolts on it sucks but it all worked. Thanks!
Thanks gentlemen! I'll be doing this repair in a few days when my actuator arrives. Your instruction video gives me confidence this will be an easy job!
Excellent video! This tutorial was 100% accurate, and just what I needed to restore the heat in my 2005 F150. You even mentioned what size wrenches to use, which was a big help. That right forward bolt is a bit of a pain, and if I ever have to do this again, I'll be buying an 8mm ratcheting wrench beforehand. Anyway, thanks for a great video!
Wasn't easy with my large hands, but thanks to this video, full heat and full cold are back to normal. Great help for DIY'ers!
Being comfortable in your vehicle is pretty important! Glad we could help get yours working again!
@@LemurMonitors good video, One question.. is this the same on the 2005 F150 XLT 4.6L? My problem is sometimes the directional control does not change from defrost to floor and such. Or do you have a video for that by chance?
No funciono en la f150 2006
Thank you for saving me $700!!! I did this and my heater now works!!! Hardest part was the screws for the actuator, someone needs to fire the engineers that put this in the truck!!!
Thanks to this video, temperature control blend door back to normal, tight space to work in so be patient.
Thanks. Was able to replace without any issue. It took about 1 hour but I have experience pulling the radio.
Thanks for a great video, should mention that small hands would help. Somehow I ended up removing 4 screws, have no idea where the extra came from! I followed your instructions and it worked!
I did mine with the radio still in. Just took a very small 5/16 opened end wrench and followed your directions
Ok, for all those wondering about "calibration", the control module performs a calibration every time you cycle the ignition key on.
The gear is keyed. It's important to align the keyed portion on the actuator with the slot in the Blend Door (which is inside the housing case). It's very hard to see where the keyed portion is in the housing case, but it should be roughly aligned with the electrical connector (may have to wiggle it back and forth a bit to get it to seat). If your actuator gear's key isn't aligned with the Blend Door's keyed slot, then you can rotate the gear by plugging it into the electrical connector without installing it (hold it or just let it rest in the radio cavity) and cycling the key in the ignition (you'll have to have to battery connected). When you cycle the ignition the gear will rotate about 30 degrees one way, then 30 degrees again the other way - this is the calibration cycle where it senses where the Blend Door's limits are. You can time your ignition cycle to get it to advance a little with each on/off cycle of the ignition, and in this way align the gear's keyed slot with the electrical connector on the actuator. As long as the gear is aligned with the electrical connector on the actuator, you'll be able to get it into the Blend Door's keyed slot and rotate it to get the screws installed. Once you have it installed, turn the truck on, it will perform its calibration cycle to sense the limits of movement, and your temp control should work. I would make a video of this process, but it already took me half a day to figure this out and I have other stuff to do. Good luck.
p.s. If you're desperate, you can literally drill a hole in the top of the dashboard at just the right spot, stick a long screwdriver down into the Blend Door gear and change it manually. You can also rip apart the old actuator, take out the gear arm and jam it into the socket to turn it to "hot" to ensure that's working (which is what I did to test all this out).
Awesome! You guys saved me $1300 today!
I am not sure if this is the issue with my heat but if it is you all made it look easy for almost anyone to do!
Yall gotta say something about reconnecting the connector to the actuator!! I was so excited to get the darn thing in i merily skipped on ahead and almost forgot!!
How do you perform a climate control reset?
Nice video, straightforward and clear. Big help
Update: Your video was fabulous I will say this project is definitely a pain in the hind end getting that third boat was the most difficult thing I’ve done in three years and I repair houses for a living I have heat now I’m so grateful to you guys. I will say this might be one of those projects that are novice handy person would pay someone to do it would be worth $275 labor easily.
Replaced the blend door as instructed. It only blows warm air which is exactly where this all started. I found that I can manually manipulate the blend door using a spindle. Is there a calibration or sensor elsewhere to check?
So is there any calibrating that needs to be done when replacing the actuator? I need to replace mine in my 04 f150 4.6 XL (new body). When I take the old one out, how do I know where the new actuator's little gear needs to be to line up with where the ac/heat selection is already? Is this all done automatically with the truck's computer? You simply removed and replaced. Is that really all there is to it and you don't have to line anything up when installing the new one?
Thank you very much for uploading this video.
I was able to change actuator successfully following your step by step video.
Great video
Does this blend door also allow the cold ac air into the cab? I can feel my hvac box get cold with the ac on but it's not blowing out cold
5:25. What about re-connecting the electrical lead onto the NEW actuator? 4:23
Does it need to be clocked?
I just recently bought a 05 f150 5.4L I'll be doing this before I even think about getting to the heater core hopefully that's it's thanks for the info
Did this solve your problem I was about to do the same before I moved to the heater core
Can you have a bad actuator without any error codes? I have cold air and when turned to hot does not get hot.
Did you happen to get an answer for your question because I'm dealing with the exact same thing. I plan to check the fuse tomorrow but in the meantime, if you have an answer please let me know. Thanks
@@qbienemy4663 no but I went ahead and replaced it this weekend. Seems to have worked.
@@joshnoyes6119 Thanks
I have the same problem on my 2005. No codes ,tried to flush the heater core and made a big mess. Tried forcing air through both hoses and had air going through the head then up into the reservoir. When you changed out your actuator door with no codes did it work and are you still getting heat? Because I might try this.
@@snowblind5151 seems to heat better but not like it should.
Outstanding, very detailed instructions. Thank you.
Is there a position that you need to set first when installing the new blend door actuator? How do you know where to have the temp knob set before installing the new motor? Does it not matter? My problem is my heat is stuck on in my 2004 f150 XL 4.6
Is there any calibration required with new actuator?
Great job guys! That helps me to understand the problem!
Question: Which fuse serves this actuator?
How do u adjust the actuator? Is there a reset?
What are you doing now
I have a regular cab 2005 with the 4.6L engine so does this video also apply to my vehicle also?
Don't you have to perform a calibration procedure on the actuator by removing a fuse etc?
Great video, I have heat but when I switch to defrost mode, there is very little air flow. If I turn to cold air while in defrost mode, there is all kinds of air flow. Is it possible something is blocking the hot air flow to the defroster?
There is a trick to reset the actuator by removing fuse #'s 5 and 13. I got the right side blowing hot . . . I hope another 'reset' procedure can get the left side blowing hot again. In your truck, there is another method not requiring removal of the fuses, but you can't do it with an Auto Climate Control system.
Thanks! Just changed mine out with your help.
Awesome, very glad we could help!
Maybe a dumb question, but If the blend door and actuator spindle don't line up, do you rotate the blend door or actuator to match?
I need the answer to this too. This was clearly not done on a failed unit there appears to be no way to align the 2. Thumbs down 👇
Frickin Awesome,this im sure is my problem with the blend door not operating...Thank You 👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸.
I love you guys,awesome work and helpful.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH. This tutorial enabled me to replace my actuator. A bit different with the XLT Lariat package, but same procedure. Excellent instructions!
I have a 2008 F-150 XLT 5.4 that I just purchased a couple of months ago. When I would start it up I would hear a creaking sound where the actuator is. One day it was a little cooler than normal and I turned the temp from the blue(cool) to red(hot) now I only have HOT air blowing out at all vent positions. The actuator does not creak any more, would that be the cause of the all heat & no cool?
Is there an easier way to get the one thru the glove compartment
There might be an easier angle but this is the one that worked best for us - it's definitely not easy to get to
How do i know if ?it’s the actuator ,
What do you do when the shaft won’t line up on the new actuator
Other videos say to turn the key to on, then slightly turn the heat/ac dial until things line up again. Should drop right down.
Did I miss something? How does the power get to the actuator. I didn't see any disconnecting or reconnection of any wires.
mine came out of park and the cruze control worked perfect just did not have brake lights
What if you only get heat? The low pressure lines are very cold.
Is it the same on 4.6l engine?
Yes.
The question was never answered.. i’ve replaced my blend door and it’s still making the noise as well as blowing out hot air do the gears need to be lined up?
Probably so.
I didn't see any info on your video of how much coolant goes back in when changing the thermostat and water pump.
The correct levels would be found in the owners manual!
My problem is the blower ducts do not switch from defrost floor to the panel is it the same idea?
There is another actuator that controls that
You didn’t mention anything about clocking or orientation. I replaced mine a while back and now get a clicking noise from the actuator at both ends of the range. What did I do wrong.
I'm guessing this would work on a 2007 Lincoln Mark LT?
What problem could be if I turn on the heater and lot a smog start coming up from those front vents .?
2013 F150. Driver side vents blow correct cooled temp air, Passenger side vents blow HOT air...?
Might be a second unit to change out. I've read that some models have driver and passenger side units.
Do you guys have the link to buy it
Is it the same on an 07 with the V6...?
Super helpful, thank you!
Buenas tardes amigo, saludos desde Venezuela. me podrías ayudar facilitándome el diagrama eléctrico de la computadora de la f150, 5.4 3v 2007 cabina y media, gracias
Are the actuator bolt 7mm also?
What happens if there is an error message and the hvac does not blow any air. Neither hot or cold. The temperature dials does not change as well.
If it's not blowing any air sounds like you need to replace the blower fan under the glove box
Any way to test the old actuator?
Nice job but mine won't line up to go back in, Why not?
Hello Jada!
Sadly without being able to see the vehicle and get hands on there wouldn't be much we could do to determine why. If the vehicle has ever been in a accident, even if the frame was pulled stright after things could still be misalinged.
@@LemurMonitors I think Jada means that the post/gears don't line up... then what? I am stuck.
Do I want to start project with Actuator in any special position ?, 2006 F150 Actuator Part # YH1752 FoMoCo Part.
This actuator only moves when I turn the dial from hot to cold, where is the one that changes direction of airflow.
I was told the blend door actuator was my issue but my issue is a little different from the issue you said in the video this fixes. I have no problems with changing temperature, my issue is I can’t get it to blow anywhere but the defrost or windshield only. It won’t change positions to the floor or the dash vents at all. Anyone know what my issue could be?
Sounds like your issue is with the temperature control module. It controls the heat/cool, fan speeds and the direction of where you want the air to go(defroster, mid air, lower air flow).
I have 2007 lincoln navigator its the same?
Es lo mismo para lincoln navigator 2007?
So I did this. I forgot to disconnect the battery.
Now finished, the unit works, although the strange noises persist.
But I have a crank no start with a u1900 code.
Any ideas?
i reemplace but still no have ac and heat
Great video 👍
That was pretty damn good, thanks
Hey guys can you do a video of a 2002 accord ulev vtec knock sensor?
I will suggest it to the team and see what they say, no guarantees thou.
@@LemurMonitors thanks for the reply I appreciate it.
The video helped me a lot👍👍
so i have a question and hoping someone can shed some light on this problem. i have a 2008 Ford F 150 and I am having issues with my AC, the problem is that my cold air works but when i turn on the heater it gets hot on number 1 and 2 but blows cool air on 3 and 4 and was told that it is a blend door actuator issue. But i was looking to get this problem done at a shop but cost a chunk of change then came across this video to help me out with out removing the dash, but i was wondering how many "actuators" are there when it comes to replacing them? Is there one actuator to replace or is there more then one. I know of only 2,the floor one and the top one.
Video is very accurate. I initially installed the new actuator with out screws and then ran the system, it ran great, hot air. Then, somehow, the actuator splined shaft moved and would not line up and seat where i could install the screws. finally figured i would need to move temp controls and make the device move to where it would seat...now, no hot air again...help!!! What should i do? thanks for any help!
You should start the engine, turn the temp all the way to 90° then install the motor and screw it in. If this doesn’t work, take the part off and turn the temp to 60° and try again.
I replace mine now heat comes on on cold side on the coldest setting its luke warm
Thank you so much!!!!
Does this work on a 2008 ford f150 4.6l
Yup just did mine
I have replaced my blend door motor 20 times. With out fail after a few months it happens again. At this point i am wondering are there preset positions the motor have to be at? Preset temperature? Preset anything?
There is an arrow at the bottom of the motor.. Is the key on the spline shaft supposed to be in line with that arrow? There has to be a reason my spline is jumping out or reason my door always eventually falls shut again ton blast heat relatger than my ac. Help.
I changed that but I still don't have heat what could it be
nicely done thank you
Thanks that was very helpful
Me truck no have heat aire
Can you make a video for a 2011
I will forward it to the team and see what can be done, no guarantee.
Nice guys and easy
THANKS
If only a 2006 was this easy. This 2004 seems to have room enough for a small apartment above the actuator.
The 2006 has barely enough room to slide a wrench through, and zero space for hands. The glove box had to be completely removed and so did the trim plate above it to make access possible at all for the two bolts on the passenger side. Worse yet, it turns out there are two types of actuators, one with a short shaft and one with a longer shaft like the one in this video. Naturally, the parts store sold me the wrong one-just my luck. The cavities exposed under the dash were all coated with dust, and curiously there is no cabin air filter at all for this vehicle. Are the Ford engineers hooked on drugs up there in Detroit or what? Primitive tribes wearing loin cloths in the South Pacific design straw huts with more planning and forethought than the designers of these Ford trucks.
I have a 2006 model. How do you remove the trim plate? Thanks
@@JerryEgge if your referring to the trim around the radio, you can use the slimmest thing to slid gently around the trim. I start by opening the ashtray and circling around the trim with my sons ipad case opener, just like they did in this video.
@@qbienemy4663 Hello, thanks for your reply. No I wasn’t referring to the trim around the radio. I was able to remove it just fine. I had to also remove the trim around the glove box in order to get at all the bolts. I got it done, but it was a pain.
@@JerryEgge Hey Jerry, sorry I misunderstood, quick question, did it work for you? I literally removed the entire glove box when changing the part but unfort.. that whole change was for nothing because it still doesn't work!
Any suggestions on what to try next or anything you did different from me? I took the battery loose, removed everything, put in the new part and placed everything back to how it was, started the truck, and tried the eater, set there for a while, even took a drive and it still is not working properly.
I wish my got stuck on A/C not the heater
Thanku made it ez
Not accurate. I followed this video step for step. The dash has to come off!! The screws are in tight spot. If you notice he said, “after finally getting the screws out”. Exactly!!!!
Can’t get the last swcrew out about to break it
lol just did it this way. Dash does not have to come out
You need to give up your tools and go to a shop. I just did this following the instructions in the video. It took me 20 minutes only because I lost the back bolt and had to fish it out.
I would have given a rave review if you would have just done one thing...
State "The bolt through the glove box is a bitch" shredded some fore arm skin getting that one out.
Mine is a bit more complicated being a Lariat... I might even give up and pay someone. lol
Looks like a serious murr
You forgot to plug it back up the actuator
It's a bitch to change out. Slow and steady gets it done. Took about 1 half hours.
It ain't that easy ! 4 hours job!
❤🎉😇🙏✅
Or buy a used Toyota and forget about replacing parts that should not fail.
That man on the left think he’s too cool for the camera
2 koo 4 u