Hi Jason, thanks for taking the time to do this video. The differences, are surprising, to me, because they look so similar, especially the tail,pieces. Also the way you include possible problems on site, from your vast experience, is where some others don't include this aspect. So I'm grateful for this. Like the secret thing with the LSDA pokey tool.good idea, very useful. What did you try to implant in your hand ? Hope it is healing ok. Thanks again Jason for another very educational video.
Dang it Jason, I discovered that pokey tool trick when I was taking a bunch of cylinders out of Arrow knob locks just yesterday. Anyways, I made a quick video on fixing the Arrow cylinder when you lose that circular thingy that holds the tail piece on.
Hi, I think your video answered my question. I have an LSDA, L140 Lockset I'm having problems with. As you probably know, this set will only open from the keyed side with the key. When the door closes then, the latch is not retracting and is hitting the strike. The Lockset works good otherwise. I removed the latch and you cannot push it in when removed. From what I see you should be able to. Can I purchase just the latch somewhere, or should I just purchase a complete set? If I can purchase just the latch, could you tell me where online? Thanks for your video!
great vid thx for the info. whats the thickness range? you mentioned as thin as 1 3/8 whats the max both locks? does either company have thick door options? plus which do you prefer reliability wise? the LSDA looks like the easier to deal with.
Jfake Hname I have no knowledge of reliability on General as this is the first time I’ve ever messed with them. Some of our subscribers like them though! Max thickness is 1 3/4 but it can go a little more if there is some weird extra thin layer on the door. Once it hits 2” though you would need a different lock for 2- 2 1/4”
Nice vid, just thought I'd toss in a random question, do you still use those schlage tools that hook into locking nuts or whatever, they look like part of a circle with a tooth on the inside end. and also some I think are for the closer devices?
LockForce is the group of people who join in on our Saturday Morning Live chats, you should go check out one, they are on our channel uploaded after the live broadcast. As far as LSDA I have very very few problems with any of their Grade 2 stuff even in “heavy use” applications
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We put men on the moon 50 years ago but still can't make a simple door handle work and better than they did 100 years ago
Nice work again! Especially calling out the little things someone might not even think of at first. 👍
Hi Jason, thanks for taking the time to do this video.
The differences, are surprising, to me, because they look so similar, especially the tail,pieces.
Also the way you include possible problems on site, from your vast experience, is where some others don't include this aspect. So I'm grateful for this.
Like the secret thing with the LSDA pokey tool.good idea, very useful.
What did you try to implant in your hand ? Hope it is healing ok.
Thanks again Jason for another very educational video.
Pete Woodfine rubber mallet whacking a stupid metal shelf together :(
@@selock ouch, you didn't put that in the video. Or was there too many words which might offend younger viewers.
Nice video Jason.
Jason sir, you are a definite lockboss.. 🇺🇸😁
Dang it Jason, I discovered that pokey tool trick when I was taking a bunch of cylinders out of Arrow knob locks just yesterday. Anyways, I made a quick video on fixing the Arrow cylinder when you lose that circular thingy that holds the tail piece on.
Hi, I think your video answered my question. I have an LSDA, L140 Lockset I'm having problems with. As you probably know, this set will only open from the keyed side with the key. When the door closes then, the latch is not retracting and is hitting the strike. The Lockset works good otherwise. I removed the latch and you cannot push it in when removed. From what I see you should be able to.
Can I purchase just the latch somewhere, or should I just purchase a complete set? If I can purchase just the latch, could you tell me where online?
Thanks for your video!
great vid thx for the info.
whats the thickness range? you mentioned as thin as 1 3/8 whats the max both locks? does either company have thick door options? plus which do you prefer reliability wise? the LSDA looks like the easier to deal with.
Jfake Hname I have no knowledge of reliability on General as this is the first time I’ve ever messed with them. Some of our subscribers like them though!
Max thickness is 1 3/4 but it can go a little more if there is some weird extra thin layer on the door. Once it hits 2” though you would need a different lock for 2- 2 1/4”
You can go up to 2" with GL if you uprgrade the knob to a grade 1.
dwb178 good to know! Thanks for the input :)
Nice vid, just thought I'd toss in a random question, do you still use those schlage tools that hook into locking nuts or whatever, they look like part of a circle with a tooth on the inside end. and also some I think are for the closer devices?
Rhodes Nut Tool is what I call them. I still use them regularly.
Jason, which do think (LSDA /GL) holds up better in the field in a high traffic area?
The ESP Multi-Tool #CJ-34 should be your best friend Jason.
I've got a feeling you've used a little LSD before you ever used LSDA ;)
couple questions here. How do the LSDA hold up ? not really happy with our present distributor. second what the hell is lock force.
LockForce is the group of people who join in on our Saturday Morning Live chats, you should go check out one, they are on our channel uploaded after the live broadcast.
As far as LSDA I have very very few problems with any of their Grade 2 stuff even in “heavy use” applications
what is your favorite cold brew
Glenn Bechtel Mocha and Turtle! If you are into peppermint they have that too (I can’t stand PM so couldn’t say how it is)