Pro tip...buy two filters. I take mine off the truck and install the new one... done. Then I get the other one washed. I use hot water in the sink and a tooth brush for the grooves after spraying it with 50pct purple power and 50 pct water. Rinse it all out and let dry like dishes and pit back in the box with the K and N red oil
K&N recommends cleaning the cone style at approximately every 100k miles under normal driving conditions. Keep in mind that they make a profit every time you buy a recharge kit, so if anything, they'd be motivated to shorten the interval. They also warn against cleaning it too frequently.
Oiled filters are old, ridiculous technology. Note how the serious off-roaders need to install "a diaper" on their oiled air filters by K&N. The best solution, is simply buy the direct fit/replacement DRY filters made by INJEN TECHNOLOGIES. It's a durable, permanent filter, high quality, guaranteed for life. Ya simply blow it from the inside out using compressed air, followed by using a vacuum cleaner or shop vac from the outside, once every 20k to 30k miles, and you're all done. No need to worry with messy oil. Ask yourself: just how dirty does "an oil bath air filter" get during that 100k miles. Your engine isn't getting as much air flow........not to mention the high risk of gumming up a mass air flow sensor due to the need of using oil in a damned air filter. Happens all the time. There's a reason why ALL auto makers and air filter manufacturers got away from "oil bath" air filters decades ago. OIL ATTRACTS DIRT. And once the oil attracts enough dirt, it is now restricting air flow to your engine and performance is down. Think about that.
@@howabouthetruth2157 , few things. 1) off road is considered severe duty and has a shorter service interval for everything. Its to be expected for the air filter to be clogged sooner going off road kicking up dirt and dust that is getting sucked into the filter. They do sell pre filters to wrap these kind of reuseable filters with but they arent so much for dirt as they are for water, at least the ones I was looking at, I have taken my truck through high water and that was a nice safety to consider as the mesh forces the water to bead up before it gets to the filter itself. 2) Oiled filters are still used because they work, oil bath was a early filter but it really didnt filter out well as they were basically assemblies with horse hair stuffed into the assembly and the engine upon cranking would suck oil up into the horse hair giving dirt something to stick to other wise the horse hair filter was so coarse it wouldnt filter anything out. Up side to this is the dirt would settle to the bottom of the filter assembly upon sitting and next start up would pull fresh oil up into the horse hairs. These oiled filters are a next step, manufacturers started using disposable paper filters lightly oiled that you threw away after use and now we are at the final step of oiled filters which is ones that can be cleaned and reoiled and put back into service for the life of the vehicle, companies like Spectre label their filters as million mile filters that with proper service of the filter they will easily last 1,000,000 miles before they wear out and need to be replaced. K&N how ever doesnt make this claim as K&N markets their filter as being able to go 100,000 miles between service while Spectre states to never go past 25,000 miles without servicing. 3) As far as disposible paper filters goes, if I could find one in the correct size for my air box I would consider it myself, but its an odd ball size filter at 14.188" x 4.00", K&N doesn't even make a filter this size when I was looking for a spare so I went with the same filter that my Spectre air box came with just in white to be able to tell the filters apart when swapping them out. 4) K&N markets the 100,000 as a gimmick, only fools believe that, the filter is ruined by time it hits 100,000 miles without any service, thats how K&N makes their money on dummies that think they dont have to do anything to the filter for 100,000 miles and then have to buy another. No one in their right mind would believe you could just drive along 100,000 miles without ever touching your air filter. 5) That is actually a myth on the gumming up MAFs, there is no evidence to support it, it is just something the dealerships claim to void warranties to avoid losing money through warranty work. I knew a customer that had a brand new diesel truck not even 2 months old took a crap, the high pressure pump went out, they voided his warranty said he had water in the fuel tank which was bs but that is what they did to void the warranty. The only way youll ever get oil onto the MAF past a cotton gauze filter like theses is if you over saturate the filter in the first place with oil. It is why I will stick with using Spectres recharge kit as their oil bottle has marks on it and you look up your filter and it tells you how much oil that filter takes to prevent over charging it. K&N doesnt do that, they just do the red dye and then people over charge it cause they want this real pretty dark vivid red color. 6) They got away from oil bath filters because the filter media was quite literally horse hair and didnt filter much out without oil. The paper elements which came lightly oiled were superior because they filtered better. Just like these reuseable filters are superior to paper disposable filters as they flow more air while still filtering to the same level the more restrictive paper filter, filters to. If you think this kind of filter is a gimmick then that is your choice, dont try and crap all over these filters when these filters are superior when used and maintained properly.
If you wanna do this process overnight, make sure to recheck your filter if it's completely dried. Mine didn't dry completely so I had to use blow dryer to take that liquid evaporated. Also...do not use too much oil like this dude. Lightly coat it twice and don't look back afterwards. or you'll get check engine light.
appreciate man ! went 30k miles on mine in mine in my taurus i just always blew it out with the air compressor but it’s looking a little darker . cleaning it now on my way to autozone watching the video
I cleaned mine after 1/2 through an oil change cycle and it was absolutely caked beyond recognition in dirt… took over an hour and a half to get it all clean….
After my first time cleaning my filter, I realized all the waiting for drying and oiling sucked. So, I purchased a second filter; one to clean at my leisure one to swap out. 😎
@@TraceguyRune K&N has filters for like $30-45 not the entire kit but just the air filter. So its affordable forsure but not really necessary since u can clean it with the kit for $13
@@eddie39216, if you rush sure, the drying is the most time consuming part, especially when the filter doesnt want to dry quickly. Its just easier to throw a clean ready to go filter on and then let the other filter properly dry and then oil it and toss it in the box for the next service. Nothing lazy about it considering you are still cleaning and oiling the filter. Lazy would be to just throw the expensive filter away and buy a new one every time vs cleaning it.
Warm Soapy wooder. This is the cheap way that works just as good. Take a spray bottle with warm water and dawn. Spray the filter down outside, let it sit for a while spraying every few minutes. After about half an hour, start washing out from the inside of the filter out. Dawn is a very gentle degreaser that's nontoxic too, so personally I like my method. Just repeat this process 2-4 times until you stop getting gunk in the water, and then air dry overnight, or, like he said, air dryer. After it is dry, go and reapply intake filter oil. Thin layer of oil on the outside of the filter, do it twice.
This is what i may do. Dawn is a gentle de-greaser. Environmentalist use on oil soaked water fowl and it works great for that purpose. I also use Dawn to clean my factory alloy wheels...works like a champ...little agitation needed. But I wonder...instead of spraying the filter with Dawn...how about a 50/50 mixture Dawn to water in a bucket and soak the filter for a few minutes then rinse it. I'm thinking it should have the same results......thoughts.
Great video! When I take mine off, I do put a zip lock bag over the intake (, where the filter was). Also, I never leave mine outside, I'd recommend keeping it indoors in a clean area and use the dryer if needed.
@@NateRider I like that you showed that sometimes it takes more than one pass at the thing to get it clean. I realize this is 4 years old. Are you still driving a car that uses one of these reusable filter? If so, have you considered getting a spare filter? I did that and it frees me up to clean the filter when I have time.
0:46 "One thing about the car you're building... park far from anyone avoid getting exterior damages" Supercars owners in my country: Hmm, I'm gonna park in the middle of this T junction.
01:40 He says filter often enough. But as person who grew up playing need for speed and way too much drag racer V3, it’s much more satisfying to say cold air intake, haha.
lol Yep, plus I doubt that filter is getting that much cold air sitting under the hood with huge gaps in the box that is supposed to force the air to be pulled from outside the engine bay. Im doing an actual cold air intake on my truck, doing it just like the factory, but I am adding a second duct going for a dual inlet setup since I have a 870 cfm throttle body sitting on my intake manifold and can use all the air I can get. Factory setup uses plastic ducts that bolt to the core support so the least resistance is through the large rectangular opening in the core support which is also getting plastered with air going down the road as it comes through the grill. So many people think these cone filters are cold air intakes, I have seen so many under the hood with nothing around them that I started calling them hot air intakes, so many people doing LS swaps put the cone filter where the electric fans on the radiator is blowing super heated air right on the cone filter.
Buy a second one so when you have to change it just swap it out and don't buy the k&n products to clean it out just clean it with dawn dish soap it works better it takes out the dirt and the grease and oil from the filter...
@@TraceguyRune better oils out there than the dyed stuff K&N sells. Im going to use Spectre as they dont dye their oil and my filters are Spectre so the chart included with the oil says how much oil each part number filter they sell takes. My filter a proper oil charge is 50 so I just have to follow the markings on the bottle and keep pump spraying oil on the filter till I get to the 50 mark and stop. K&N oil they dont tell you how much is a proper charge, so people want that vivid red color so they keep applying the red dyed oil till they end up over charged and not even realize it.
In the really old days, “oil bath air intake” actually used baffles to direct intake air at/thru a pool of oil. The oil absorbed the dirt from the intake air and voila. Sort of a good system at low speeds and with the oil at the right amount, changed frequently. The (typically) cone filters with oil sprayed on have a lot of surface area due to the many folds. Resistance to flow if all else is the same is measured by surface area. Oiling the surface increases cleaning effectiveness but does add resistance to flow. If the filter is cleaned as needed (prescriptively) and oiled lightly but thoroughly it will work very well. The extra surface area compensates for the resistance to flow of the light oiling. Any type of filter used will need maintenance to remain effective. It’s a choice….
That is not how an oil bath filter worked to be honest. In an oil bath filter you have two components you have a lid assembly which has a large basket that is packed full of horse hair and you have a secondary basket that sits inside the air filter assembly. This secondary basket has a oil fill line that you fill with fresh motor oil to said fill line. Once the lid is placed on the assembly the large basket sits inside this oil and it covers the open passages to the carburetor. Upon cranking the engine, engine vacuum quickly pulls oil up into this basket coating the horse hair in oil, once running the engine continues to keep the horse hair coated in oil as air flows into the air filter assembly up over the lip of the secondary basket over the oil and up into the primary basket across the oil soaked horse hair where dirt and trash sticks. Upon engine shut down the oil drips back out of the horse hair into the secondary basket taking some dirt with it, this dirt will settle to the bottom of the secondary tray and not get picked back up upon next start up when oil is sucked back into the horse hair again. This type of filter was very robust and was a life time filter as all you had to do was wash the horse hair out in kerosene and replace the oil with fresh motor oil and back on the road again. The draw back how ever is the horse hair didnt provide a small micron filtering effect. This is where paper filters came in and they were lightly oiled up to the 1980s before they were no longer avaliable lightly oiled which helped with the filtering ability. On the pleats and folds, it does increase surface area but flow is really dictated by size of the filter, a round filter which is the easiest to calculate, youll find that a 14" and a 12" filter will have a set flow rate, you can break it down by surface area to get a flow per sq in and if you do this youll find the 14" filter will have more flow per sq in than the smaller 12" filter. This is why its laughable to see performance vehicles built with these tiny air filters on them that could never supply the necessary flow the engine needs. Those cone filters are the same way, many of them cant support high flow requirements its why they run a mini inverted cone on the end to try and add more surface area, its sort of like how K&N sells filter lids to try and fix a small air filter issue by increasing the surface area to try and off set the small filter size. In my case for my truck, I have a 870 cfm throttle body on my new engine, the air filter I got is a 16" Spectra airbox with dual 4" snorkels, im going to add a second cold air duct on the driver side of my truck to have dual cold air ducts going to this air box. The filter is 14.188" x 4.00" in size, the math I did long ago shows this filter is capable of running a 1,200 cfm throttle body with adequate air. I could have got away with a smaller 14" air box with a 12" x 3.00" filter but the rule of thumb is to put the absolute biggest air filter you can fit as bigger is always better when it comes to air filters. On the oil aspect, thats a problem with K&N, they sell red dyed oil and people over saturate the filter for this dark vivid red color and over saturating the filter can cause oil to get pulled fully through the cotton fibers and into the intake system and it will slow the flow of the filter down drastically. That is where Spectre out shines K&N in my book as their filters are all listed by part number in their cleaning kits and it states how much oil to use on specified filters, the oil pump spray bottle also has markings on the side to easily apply the right amount of oil without over doing it. I havent bought the kit for mine yet but I have the pdf file of the instructions saved and it states for my filters the oil charge is 50, the chart shows oil charges range from 15 to 150. Spectre also doesnt play the gimmick game like K&N does with the whole 100,000 mile bs, Spectre clearly states they recommend checking your air filter at 7,000 mile intervals and to never let the filter go past 25,000 miles without a service. I dont know how many K&N filters ive seen come through the shop over the last decade that were never cleaned and never serviced and they were just absolutely caked black and all crushed from the engine trying to pull air through the restrictive filter. These customers didnt even know you had to clean and oil the filters they thought they were good for 100,000 miles out of the box.
Thanks bro really helpful I'm doing mine just now thanks for you pro tips always good to get the know how. By the way your Sally looks amazing what a car keep up the good work👍👊👍👊👍👊👍👊👍👊✌✌✌
@@puma490, hes going to do that, hes just doing like most people do have a second filter clean, oiled and ready to go, that way you dont have to rush just swap the filter out and keep the vehicle in service while you let the filter soak, dry and oil it.
@@ByKareem It can, you have to go by what the maker of the filter recommends. Spectre who made my two filters I have clearly states do not use blow dryers, do not use heat to dry (ie oven, dryer, etc), and do not blow out with compressed air. They recommend placing in the sun to dry if you want to accelerate drying. They also clearly state when washing dont use a spray nozzle on the water hose just use straight water hose as they want no pressure on the cotton fibers.
Yea I wish I could park away from other cars. Apartment Buildings.. My dad's brand new 2021 Highlander has 2 dings in it thanks to some lady and her kids that love parking next to us. Got a couple scratches myself
Ok my question is..... I saw a guy that hates these kinds of filters showing because they are open how much dirt and grime can get in the engine. Thoughts on this?
I favor a brand new, pop in paper fiber filter in the OEM airfilter box each time. Much easier and cheaper, and no exposure to the chemicals. But thanks for explaining why
@@Cyxiv69 that filter is not pulling cold air. There is a box that is supposed to isolate the filter so it can only pull air from outside the engine bay but that box does not fit properly and has huge gaps where engine bay heat will be pulled into the filter as well. Now the air box im installing on my truck is a true cold air intake, it has two 4" round ducts which will connect to the plastic duct that bolts to my core support. I have a spare plastic duct that I will mount on the driver side and open up the rhd export fresh air port and mount my spare duct there. These two plastic ducts can only pull air from the front side of the core support not the engine side. Further more these two ducts are situated on the outside edge of the grill so when going down the road the ram air effect will be pushing cold air into these plastic ducts helping to feed the air box cool air. Just cause these cone filters are cold cold air intakes doesnt make them one unless they are truely pulling air from outside the engine bay. My truck has a 14.188" x 4.00" round Spectre reuseable filter, it doesnt even have a cone filter like seen in this photo and mine is actually only able to breathe cold air from outside the engine bay. Now race cars do run theses, but usually race cars take the time to properly duct theses filters for breathing cold air.
Bought an S197 with aftermarket intake and filter on it. I absolutely hate the way it looks as it disrupts the look and flow of the engine bay and I might change it back to stock if I can track down any decently used parts.
I have a roush intake in my mustang good too know you can use the k and n dude my air intake was red before now it's dusty definitely need to clean it asap
I can't get the damn filter out. Mine does not pop right out - I loosened the screw for the metallic ring and it won't budge. I guess I need to just really forcefully yank it off? Is there anything else I need to loosen?
K&N also makes Universal Clam On Air Filters. For more air flow using a Dry Flow Air Filter May give you a tiny bit of boost which K&N also sells in a universal application. With dry flow you get more air flow but more cleaning as well.
K&N has shit customer service. I'd avoid them. I sent them an email, and got a response back in 33 days. I followed up to their email, and it has now been 8 months, and no response yet.
@@TraceguyRune oh yah I can believe that. My experience with them before they relocated their customer service to Texas was pretty good. Ever since they moved it hasn’t been the same.
Try Dawn dish soap. It's cheaper. I wouldn't would be better on drive way. I wouldn't want the oil and degreaser on that nice drive also just use some oil it save you $ and we all can use that!
I would stay away from those rubber ends air filters, my injen intake came with one of those rubbers ends. when I took it off to clean on the end was wide open lol like not filtering air at all. I bought an spectre filter with metal end from now on no more rubber filter ends for me, wondering how long was the filter like that, hope not that long.
Spectre is a superior filter I think. If you buy their cleaning kit their oil spray bottle has markings on it to properly measure the oil charge and the paperwork in the box has all the filter part numbers they offer and the proper oil charge for said filter to avoid over charging the filter. My two Spectre filters are the same number, one is red and one is white (easier to know which one is which when it comes time to swap) and they both call for a oil charge of 50. Way better than K&N that dyes their oil red and then you want to over charge it to get a nice dark red color.
I’d imagine if you don’t drive it as your every day driver that dawn dish soap and soaking over night would work much better for a deep cleaning. Let it sit on your counter to dry. Rushing things makes for errors.
you should reoil your filter for it to work properly. The material used for the intake needs the oil to catch the dirt from going in your engine as well as letting air through
Michael Wuerstlin The purpose of the oil is to catch the smaller particular of finer dust and create a webbing basically to initially start catching bigger fine dust and dirt particles. However not all air filters use an oil based application. Some are dry flow filters which don’t use oil but allow for increased air flow and can still clean the air just not as well as the oiled air filter. K&N sells dry and oil based Air Filters and have available Pre-chargers to give an extra boost of protection.
@@Car_nage predominately you can run an “oiled” air filter without the oil and it’ll perform the same. Only difference is that it won’t create a barrier or layer of dust that will accumulate the more you use it.
I'm assuming this product can be used for a Weapon-R reusable CAI filter (I have one pre-installed in my vehicle)? It looks very similar... I'm not sure if it's an oiled or dry filter though. 🤔
Nate! How Hard was it to get the rubber hose on the plastic JLT CAI? hahaha dude It took me like 45 mins to get that thing on. I was surprised how great the car ran after this install. Keep up the great work man.
thats a gimmic, it would never last 100k miles without a cleaning. Is it a K&N setup? K&N is the only one I really know about that goes insane with the 100,000 mile stupidity. Dont know how many customers came in with their filters that were so caked and crushed from the engine trying to run through the plugged filter that you couldnt clean it and had to replace it. They all use the same line, "but its good for 100k miles".
Nate I have a question, so my mother has one of these under the hood on her 2003 four Thunderbird engine! And the filter and the area around it is filthy with soot!!! What can I do why is it doing that?
Buy a stock oem filter and housing k&n filters are terrible for your motor great air flow from them but they do let very small particles into for instance my experience has pitted every one of my turbo wheels causing internal damage no good
I recently bought air cleaner cover with k&n with it...it was used...I'm in the middle of cleaning it now...its drying now...wut is the difference 2 theses filter compared 2 the regular ones??
great video! never knew i needed this untill my tuner shows my air intake temps are getting to 140 degrees Fahrenheit and my fuel trims are kinda wacky
I’m impatient, so when it’s time to dry the filter, can I just hook it to the exhaust of the car and run it for a while ? Should blow lots of hot air through the filter, right🤔... ::Emperor Palpatine:: voice”Do it!”...👹
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RdbFAG5xbyY/mqdefault.jpg)
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/tr.png)
Clean it 4 times a year. Me laughing as I’m doing it the first time in 5 years
First time in 3 years for me 😂
Me too just did mine after 3 years
Rip hp
@@andygomez3014 bruh same it’s cause my dad didn’t know you had to💀
oh my GOSH lol 1st time in 5 years he says
Pro tip...buy two filters. I take mine off the truck and install the new one... done. Then I get the other one washed. I use hot water in the sink and a tooth brush for the grooves after spraying it with 50pct purple power and 50 pct water. Rinse it all out and let dry like dishes and pit back in the box with the K and N red oil
a tip: watch movies at Flixzone. Been using it for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Rowen Daxton yea, I've been using Flixzone for since november myself :D
@Rowen Daxton Yea, I've been watching on Flixzone for since november myself =)
Same here, Green or purple cleaner. Wash one and have a spare, Swap out. I do filter every 2 oil changes or 6-7k miles
Well, my Intake has 2 filters, so I need to buy 2 more?!
K&N recommends cleaning the cone style at approximately every 100k miles under normal driving conditions. Keep in mind that they make a profit every time you buy a recharge kit, so if anything, they'd be motivated to shorten the interval. They also warn against cleaning it too frequently.
Oiled filters are old, ridiculous technology. Note how the serious off-roaders need to install "a diaper" on their oiled air filters by K&N. The best solution, is simply buy the direct fit/replacement DRY filters made by INJEN TECHNOLOGIES. It's a durable, permanent filter, high quality, guaranteed for life. Ya simply blow it from the inside out using compressed air, followed by using a vacuum cleaner or shop vac from the outside, once every 20k to 30k miles, and you're all done. No need to worry with messy oil. Ask yourself: just how dirty does "an oil bath air filter" get during that 100k miles. Your engine isn't getting as much air flow........not to mention the high risk of gumming up a mass air flow sensor due to the need of using oil in a damned air filter. Happens all the time. There's a reason why ALL auto makers and air filter manufacturers got away from "oil bath" air filters decades ago. OIL ATTRACTS DIRT. And once the oil attracts enough dirt, it is now restricting air flow to your engine and performance is down. Think about that.
@howabouthetruth2157 no filter is permanent. Every filter gets dirty bro
@@howabouthetruth2157 , few things.
1) off road is considered severe duty and has a shorter service interval for everything. Its to be expected for the air filter to be clogged sooner going off road kicking up dirt and dust that is getting sucked into the filter. They do sell pre filters to wrap these kind of reuseable filters with but they arent so much for dirt as they are for water, at least the ones I was looking at, I have taken my truck through high water and that was a nice safety to consider as the mesh forces the water to bead up before it gets to the filter itself.
2) Oiled filters are still used because they work, oil bath was a early filter but it really didnt filter out well as they were basically assemblies with horse hair stuffed into the assembly and the engine upon cranking would suck oil up into the horse hair giving dirt something to stick to other wise the horse hair filter was so coarse it wouldnt filter anything out. Up side to this is the dirt would settle to the bottom of the filter assembly upon sitting and next start up would pull fresh oil up into the horse hairs. These oiled filters are a next step, manufacturers started using disposable paper filters lightly oiled that you threw away after use and now we are at the final step of oiled filters which is ones that can be cleaned and reoiled and put back into service for the life of the vehicle, companies like Spectre label their filters as million mile filters that with proper service of the filter they will easily last 1,000,000 miles before they wear out and need to be replaced. K&N how ever doesnt make this claim as K&N markets their filter as being able to go 100,000 miles between service while Spectre states to never go past 25,000 miles without servicing.
3) As far as disposible paper filters goes, if I could find one in the correct size for my air box I would consider it myself, but its an odd ball size filter at 14.188" x 4.00", K&N doesn't even make a filter this size when I was looking for a spare so I went with the same filter that my Spectre air box came with just in white to be able to tell the filters apart when swapping them out.
4) K&N markets the 100,000 as a gimmick, only fools believe that, the filter is ruined by time it hits 100,000 miles without any service, thats how K&N makes their money on dummies that think they dont have to do anything to the filter for 100,000 miles and then have to buy another. No one in their right mind would believe you could just drive along 100,000 miles without ever touching your air filter.
5) That is actually a myth on the gumming up MAFs, there is no evidence to support it, it is just something the dealerships claim to void warranties to avoid losing money through warranty work. I knew a customer that had a brand new diesel truck not even 2 months old took a crap, the high pressure pump went out, they voided his warranty said he had water in the fuel tank which was bs but that is what they did to void the warranty. The only way youll ever get oil onto the MAF past a cotton gauze filter like theses is if you over saturate the filter in the first place with oil. It is why I will stick with using Spectres recharge kit as their oil bottle has marks on it and you look up your filter and it tells you how much oil that filter takes to prevent over charging it. K&N doesnt do that, they just do the red dye and then people over charge it cause they want this real pretty dark vivid red color.
6) They got away from oil bath filters because the filter media was quite literally horse hair and didnt filter much out without oil. The paper elements which came lightly oiled were superior because they filtered better. Just like these reuseable filters are superior to paper disposable filters as they flow more air while still filtering to the same level the more restrictive paper filter, filters to. If you think this kind of filter is a gimmick then that is your choice, dont try and crap all over these filters when these filters are superior when used and maintained properly.
You did a good job at stretching this video out to 10 minutes 😂
If you wanna do this process overnight, make sure to recheck your filter if it's completely dried. Mine didn't dry completely so I had to use blow dryer to take that liquid evaporated. Also...do not use too much oil like this dude. Lightly coat it twice and don't look back afterwards. or you'll get check engine light.
why is oil required
@@Murphys_Law9 The light oil layer traps incoming contaminants as well as protects from water damage.
Im pretty sure ive over oiled mine. Its not installed at the moment but whats my nxt steps here ?
@@MrMikeSlugger Just re clean it. use some "degreaser" to take off all the oil then repeat the dryiing process and re apply oil
You could use that much oil if your car is turbo'd
When you were walking towards your car I was looking like “wait I know that place that’s in La Mesa”. Dope to see Daygo represented!
You’re telling me you got a goatee and a stache between 2:56 and 3:15?😂😂😂 thanks for the vid though lol
Stone Skinner It’s that 5 o’clock shadow 😂
Dude, I just love how much you love your Sally. It makes me feel good you care for her so!! Nice how-to video!! Again, keep up GREAT work on the vids.
thank you so much james I really appreciate it :)
appreciate man ! went 30k miles on mine in mine in my taurus i just always blew it out with the air compressor but it’s looking a little darker . cleaning it now on my way to autozone watching the video
1) Remove Air Filter
2) Spray with Air cleaner degreaser thoroughly
3) Rinse
4) let dry
4.5) oil Filter
5) Install
6) Drive car goes Vroom Vroom
You forgot the oil
Forgot oil like one guy said. I know he will be squeeling at every stop. Like the other guy mentioned. Haha
You forgot to oil. No vroom vroom. Just boom bang kaklunk.
@@TraceguyRune updated
Finally a tutorial that actually helped me out thanks
I cleaned mine after 1/2 through an oil change cycle and it was absolutely caked beyond recognition in dirt… took over an hour and a half to get it all clean….
I know what I’m doing this Saturday now lol my filter is nasty 😂 thanks for the video man! 👍🏻
That was helpful! I'm adding that to a playlist so I can watch it again when I get a cold-air intake.
yeah man thats what I am here for! Hope this helped out
You truly are the best RUclipsr for mustangs, keep up the good work.
thank you it means so much to me
Agreed
Pro tip! Don't run degreased water on your nice driveway.
Lives at his parent's house so doesn't give a crap!
This kid isn't moving out of his parents basement anytime soon...
Ultra pro tip....toss in the clothes dryer...30 min later done
I was saying the same thing. I bet its a real nice house. Water fountain in middle of driveway🔥🔥😎😎 cool house. I wouldn't leave either lol
psulse won’t the high heat damage it, i have a very large filter for my 2012 f250 6.7
After my first time cleaning my filter, I realized all the waiting for drying and oiling sucked. So, I purchased a second filter; one to clean at my leisure one to swap out. 😎
Lazy as hell really didn’t take me more then 45 min, whole job
Good for you
Aren't these filters about $100+?
@@TraceguyRune K&N has filters for like $30-45 not the entire kit but just the air filter. So its affordable forsure but not really necessary since u can clean it with the kit for $13
@@eddie39216, if you rush sure, the drying is the most time consuming part, especially when the filter doesnt want to dry quickly. Its just easier to throw a clean ready to go filter on and then let the other filter properly dry and then oil it and toss it in the box for the next service. Nothing lazy about it considering you are still cleaning and oiling the filter. Lazy would be to just throw the expensive filter away and buy a new one every time vs cleaning it.
been waiting for one of these for a long time keep up the nice work
yeah man thats what I am here for!
Warm Soapy wooder.
This is the cheap way that works just as good. Take a spray bottle with warm water and dawn. Spray the filter down outside, let it sit for a while spraying every few minutes. After about half an hour, start washing out from the inside of the filter out.
Dawn is a very gentle degreaser that's nontoxic too, so personally I like my method. Just repeat this process 2-4 times until you stop getting gunk in the water, and then air dry overnight, or, like he said, air dryer. After it is dry, go and reapply intake filter oil. Thin layer of oil on the outside of the filter, do it twice.
This is what i may do. Dawn is a gentle de-greaser. Environmentalist use on oil soaked water fowl and it works great for that purpose. I also use Dawn to clean my factory alloy wheels...works like a champ...little agitation needed. But I wonder...instead of spraying the filter with Dawn...how about a 50/50 mixture Dawn to water in a bucket and soak the filter for a few minutes then rinse it. I'm thinking it should have the same results......thoughts.
Great video! When I take mine off, I do put a zip lock bag over the intake (, where the filter was). Also, I never leave mine outside, I'd recommend keeping it indoors in a clean area and use the dryer if needed.
i bought it earlier today and it was like $23.00 😱 worth it though to have it clean 👌
How did you do to grow your mustache so fast? 😂😂🍺 good video my man.
Grew a mustache in 10 secs
hahaha finally someone noticed
Lol I was so confused
He says Code air intake..
@@NateRider I like that you showed that sometimes it takes more than one pass at the thing to get it clean. I realize this is 4 years old. Are you still driving a car that uses one of these reusable filter? If so, have you considered getting a spare filter? I did that and it frees me up to clean the filter when I have time.
Just bought Black Betty this past weekend and it's filter was filthy
Thanks for the video....who's Black Betty??? 95 Dodge Ram 5.9 😁
Big ups ! I didn’t know how long to let it sit before putting it back on !
Dude dropped his sack in the middle of this video 😂❤ great video
0:46 "One thing about the car you're building... park far from anyone avoid getting exterior damages"
Supercars owners in my country: Hmm, I'm gonna park in the middle of this T junction.
I have to agree... She was looking good all the way around 🤷😎
I do it like 1 maybe twice a year. But I don’t clean it for fun like this guy I notice that shit be dirty. ( always construction in my area )
He just like saying cold air intake.
Ya its a filter not the actual cold air intake. This guy is funny. And shops at auto part stores. Lol
01:40 He says filter often enough. But as person who grew up playing need for speed and way too much drag racer V3, it’s much more satisfying to say cold air intake, haha.
Lmao😂
lol Yep, plus I doubt that filter is getting that much cold air sitting under the hood with huge gaps in the box that is supposed to force the air to be pulled from outside the engine bay.
Im doing an actual cold air intake on my truck, doing it just like the factory, but I am adding a second duct going for a dual inlet setup since I have a 870 cfm throttle body sitting on my intake manifold and can use all the air I can get. Factory setup uses plastic ducts that bolt to the core support so the least resistance is through the large rectangular opening in the core support which is also getting plastered with air going down the road as it comes through the grill.
So many people think these cone filters are cold air intakes, I have seen so many under the hood with nothing around them that I started calling them hot air intakes, so many people doing LS swaps put the cone filter where the electric fans on the radiator is blowing super heated air right on the cone filter.
that stang is beautiful bro
Buy a second one so when you have to change it just swap it out and don't buy the k&n products to clean it out just clean it with dawn dish soap it works better it takes out the dirt and the grease and oil from the filter...
legit i bought the mishimoto cleaner, smelled it and immediately thought "This smells like dish soap and water..."
Do you buy K&N recharge oil though?
@@TraceguyRune better oils out there than the dyed stuff K&N sells. Im going to use Spectre as they dont dye their oil and my filters are Spectre so the chart included with the oil says how much oil each part number filter they sell takes. My filter a proper oil charge is 50 so I just have to follow the markings on the bottle and keep pump spraying oil on the filter till I get to the 50 mark and stop.
K&N oil they dont tell you how much is a proper charge, so people want that vivid red color so they keep applying the red dyed oil till they end up over charged and not even realize it.
Thanks for the informational video, I am going to clean mine this weekend. Just an FYI, not all Mustang owners are “guys” 😀 signed, Mustang Chelle
you're a bro to me! come on now fam
I’ll be a “bro” any day! Lol
Trueee, female svt owner right here 🙋🏻♀️😊
All mustang drivers aren't guys
I have the same filter in my 2010 gt. Cleans up good.
Wow I love that mustang setup
In the really old days, “oil bath air intake” actually used baffles to direct intake air at/thru a pool of oil. The oil absorbed the dirt from the intake air and voila. Sort of a good system at low speeds and with the oil at the right amount, changed frequently.
The (typically) cone filters with oil sprayed on have a lot of surface area due to the many folds. Resistance to flow if all else is the same is measured by surface area. Oiling the surface increases cleaning effectiveness but does add resistance to flow. If the filter is cleaned as needed (prescriptively) and oiled lightly but thoroughly it will work very well. The extra surface area compensates for the resistance to flow of the light oiling. Any type of filter used will need maintenance to remain effective. It’s a choice….
That is not how an oil bath filter worked to be honest.
In an oil bath filter you have two components you have a lid assembly which has a large basket that is packed full of horse hair and you have a secondary basket that sits inside the air filter assembly. This secondary basket has a oil fill line that you fill with fresh motor oil to said fill line. Once the lid is placed on the assembly the large basket sits inside this oil and it covers the open passages to the carburetor. Upon cranking the engine, engine vacuum quickly pulls oil up into this basket coating the horse hair in oil, once running the engine continues to keep the horse hair coated in oil as air flows into the air filter assembly up over the lip of the secondary basket over the oil and up into the primary basket across the oil soaked horse hair where dirt and trash sticks. Upon engine shut down the oil drips back out of the horse hair into the secondary basket taking some dirt with it, this dirt will settle to the bottom of the secondary tray and not get picked back up upon next start up when oil is sucked back into the horse hair again.
This type of filter was very robust and was a life time filter as all you had to do was wash the horse hair out in kerosene and replace the oil with fresh motor oil and back on the road again. The draw back how ever is the horse hair didnt provide a small micron filtering effect. This is where paper filters came in and they were lightly oiled up to the 1980s before they were no longer avaliable lightly oiled which helped with the filtering ability.
On the pleats and folds, it does increase surface area but flow is really dictated by size of the filter, a round filter which is the easiest to calculate, youll find that a 14" and a 12" filter will have a set flow rate, you can break it down by surface area to get a flow per sq in and if you do this youll find the 14" filter will have more flow per sq in than the smaller 12" filter. This is why its laughable to see performance vehicles built with these tiny air filters on them that could never supply the necessary flow the engine needs. Those cone filters are the same way, many of them cant support high flow requirements its why they run a mini inverted cone on the end to try and add more surface area, its sort of like how K&N sells filter lids to try and fix a small air filter issue by increasing the surface area to try and off set the small filter size. In my case for my truck, I have a 870 cfm throttle body on my new engine, the air filter I got is a 16" Spectra airbox with dual 4" snorkels, im going to add a second cold air duct on the driver side of my truck to have dual cold air ducts going to this air box. The filter is 14.188" x 4.00" in size, the math I did long ago shows this filter is capable of running a 1,200 cfm throttle body with adequate air. I could have got away with a smaller 14" air box with a 12" x 3.00" filter but the rule of thumb is to put the absolute biggest air filter you can fit as bigger is always better when it comes to air filters.
On the oil aspect, thats a problem with K&N, they sell red dyed oil and people over saturate the filter for this dark vivid red color and over saturating the filter can cause oil to get pulled fully through the cotton fibers and into the intake system and it will slow the flow of the filter down drastically. That is where Spectre out shines K&N in my book as their filters are all listed by part number in their cleaning kits and it states how much oil to use on specified filters, the oil pump spray bottle also has markings on the side to easily apply the right amount of oil without over doing it. I havent bought the kit for mine yet but I have the pdf file of the instructions saved and it states for my filters the oil charge is 50, the chart shows oil charges range from 15 to 150. Spectre also doesnt play the gimmick game like K&N does with the whole 100,000 mile bs, Spectre clearly states they recommend checking your air filter at 7,000 mile intervals and to never let the filter go past 25,000 miles without a service. I dont know how many K&N filters ive seen come through the shop over the last decade that were never cleaned and never serviced and they were just absolutely caked black and all crushed from the engine trying to pull air through the restrictive filter. These customers didnt even know you had to clean and oil the filters they thought they were good for 100,000 miles out of the box.
Thanks for the video bro. Much appreciated
How about buying a second filter and keep it on standby!
Do NOT use hair dryer to dry your filter. Leave it overnight for best results. It’s Okay to place filter in direct sunlight or in front of a fan.
Love it man!
Thanks Dustyn!
ProTip: that's actually his hairdryer 😏
Great vid kid, thanks!!
Thanks bro really helpful I'm doing mine just now
thanks for you pro tips always good to get the know how. By the way your Sally looks amazing what a car keep up the good work👍👊👍👊👍👊👍👊👍👊✌✌✌
interesting, just ordered a K&N cold air intake, think I'll get an extra filter where I'll always be good to go.
better to clean and prime it yourself than always put new ones on your car they aren’t oiled properly usually too much
@@puma490, hes going to do that, hes just doing like most people do have a second filter clean, oiled and ready to go, that way you dont have to rush just swap the filter out and keep the vehicle in service while you let the filter soak, dry and oil it.
I love your videos ! This is my first time upgrading my own 2008 mustang and your videos are awesome and very helpful thank you
I use a hairdryer on low setting inside the filter 5 minutes and they are bone dry.
Can this damage it?
@@ByKareem It can, you have to go by what the maker of the filter recommends. Spectre who made my two filters I have clearly states do not use blow dryers, do not use heat to dry (ie oven, dryer, etc), and do not blow out with compressed air. They recommend placing in the sun to dry if you want to accelerate drying. They also clearly state when washing dont use a spray nozzle on the water hose just use straight water hose as they want no pressure on the cotton fibers.
@3:11 I guarantee this is what this dude listens to while he’s whippin’ around in his dad’s car.
Oh shit that's my city. Subbed
Girls are watching this video, too!
I wonder if greta is watching
@@ivanbaires5727 HOW DARE YOU !
@@ivanbaires5727 YOU HAVE STOLEN HER DREAMS!!
Nice job on a nice car. Thanks man.
nice video, thanks buddy !
I. Thank. You. For. Thee. Vid-e-o. (Just trying to match your "young Christopher Walken" talking rhythm lol- seriously: thanks!
I'm glad you're not a douche bag who would park at the back of the lot, but also try to take up 2-4 spots. Good on you for being a decent human being
Yea I wish I could park away from other cars. Apartment Buildings.. My dad's brand new 2021 Highlander has 2 dings in it thanks to some lady and her kids that love parking next to us. Got a couple scratches myself
Ok my question is..... I saw a guy that hates these kinds of filters showing because they are open how much dirt and grime can get in the engine. Thoughts on this?
I favor a brand new, pop in paper fiber filter in the OEM airfilter box each time. Much easier and cheaper, and no exposure to the chemicals. But thanks for explaining why
Yeah, plus those filter like he has doesn't really suck in cold air. He's actually making his car take in hot air from under the hood.
@@dibs3615 so then why does every street racing car have them? Or why do turbos just have the filter on them hmmm
@@Cyxiv69 it will only suck in hot air if you're running a low quality/ cheap CAI . Run a Steeda, best in the game.
@@Cyxiv69 that filter is not pulling cold air. There is a box that is supposed to isolate the filter so it can only pull air from outside the engine bay but that box does not fit properly and has huge gaps where engine bay heat will be pulled into the filter as well.
Now the air box im installing on my truck is a true cold air intake, it has two 4" round ducts which will connect to the plastic duct that bolts to my core support. I have a spare plastic duct that I will mount on the driver side and open up the rhd export fresh air port and mount my spare duct there. These two plastic ducts can only pull air from the front side of the core support not the engine side. Further more these two ducts are situated on the outside edge of the grill so when going down the road the ram air effect will be pushing cold air into these plastic ducts helping to feed the air box cool air.
Just cause these cone filters are cold cold air intakes doesnt make them one unless they are truely pulling air from outside the engine bay. My truck has a 14.188" x 4.00" round Spectre reuseable filter, it doesnt even have a cone filter like seen in this photo and mine is actually only able to breathe cold air from outside the engine bay.
Now race cars do run theses, but usually race cars take the time to properly duct theses filters for breathing cold air.
great video! everytime i clean my air filter i come to this video!!!!
Great job! Thanks for the information
Awesome video helped me alot!
Thank you so much Very helpful video
Isn't that just a short ram intake? The cold" air intake goes more down ?
Its got the heat shield so looks like a cold air intake to me
Hey can u do a video on the tire lettering. I've done tried it several times can't get them to stay on the tires to long.
Nice one! I hope they do it in green because that is the colour of mine and smaller. UK
How long does the cleaning oil usually take to dry before you can safely reinstall the filter?
Bought an S197 with aftermarket intake and filter on it. I absolutely hate the way it looks as it disrupts the look and flow of the engine bay and I might change it back to stock if I can track down any decently used parts.
I have a roush intake in my mustang good too know you can use the k and n dude my air intake was red before now it's dusty definitely need to clean it asap
Thanks brother I just cleaned my truck air filter same way you did
Thanks man!
I can't get the damn filter out. Mine does not pop right out - I loosened the screw for the metallic ring and it won't budge. I guess I need to just really forcefully yank it off? Is there anything else I need to loosen?
K&N also makes Universal Clam On Air Filters. For more air flow using a Dry Flow Air Filter May give you a tiny bit of boost which K&N also sells in a universal application. With dry flow you get more air flow but more cleaning as well.
K&N has shit customer service. I'd avoid them. I sent them an email, and got a response back in 33 days. I followed up to their email, and it has now been 8 months, and no response yet.
@@TraceguyRune oh yah I can believe that. My experience with them before they relocated their customer service to Texas was pretty good. Ever since they moved it hasn’t been the same.
Good tips. Nice video
Try Dawn dish soap. It's cheaper. I wouldn't would be better on drive way. I wouldn't want the oil and degreaser on that nice drive also just use some oil it save you $ and we all can use that!
it’s literally just 12 dollars for the cleaning kit
This video really helped thanks 👍🏼
gotchu!
I would stay away from those rubber ends air filters, my injen intake came with one of those rubbers ends. when I took it off to clean on the end was wide open lol like not filtering air at all. I bought an spectre filter with metal end from now on no more rubber filter ends for me, wondering how long was the filter like that, hope not that long.
Spectre is a superior filter I think. If you buy their cleaning kit their oil spray bottle has markings on it to properly measure the oil charge and the paperwork in the box has all the filter part numbers they offer and the proper oil charge for said filter to avoid over charging the filter. My two Spectre filters are the same number, one is red and one is white (easier to know which one is which when it comes time to swap) and they both call for a oil charge of 50. Way better than K&N that dyes their oil red and then you want to over charge it to get a nice dark red color.
I’d imagine if you don’t drive it as your every day driver that dawn dish soap and soaking over night would work much better for a deep cleaning. Let it sit on your counter to dry. Rushing things makes for errors.
This was great, I’m leaving now to go buy that kit.
Thank you for the vid.
great video as always!!! Quick question... What purpose does the oil serve? I cleaned my intake and didnt re oil it. not sure if i need to
you should reoil your filter for it to work properly. The material used for the intake needs the oil to catch the dirt from going in your engine as well as letting air through
Michael Wuerstlin The purpose of the oil is to catch the smaller particular of finer dust and create a webbing basically to initially start catching bigger fine dust and dirt particles. However not all air filters use an oil based application. Some are dry flow filters which don’t use oil but allow for increased air flow and can still clean the air just not as well as the oiled air filter. K&N sells dry and oil based Air Filters and have available Pre-chargers to give an extra boost of protection.
@@DehTastic so I can pretty much choose to oil it or not it will perform the same ?
@@Car_nage predominately you can run an “oiled” air filter without the oil and it’ll perform the same. Only difference is that it won’t create a barrier or layer of dust that will accumulate the more you use it.
@@DehTastic 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I'm assuming this product can be used for a Weapon-R reusable CAI filter (I have one pre-installed in my vehicle)? It looks very similar... I'm not sure if it's an oiled or dry filter though. 🤔
Pro tip use this video as a timer for the 10 minute cleaner
Appreciated. How’s the Stang?
Does your CAI make a whistling sound when accelerating?
Thanks bro. Appreciate ya
Nate! How Hard was it to get the rubber hose on the plastic JLT CAI? hahaha dude It took me like 45 mins to get that thing on. I was surprised how great the car ran after this install. Keep up the great work man.
it didn't take me too long lol its a tight fit, just how i like it ;) I know thats one of the best installs on a car
Great video
Bro said “cold air intake” like 38483947 times omg
Dam, your good at counting
update it’s now 16.99$ guys just bought mine
Update: 21.99 now
My intake recommended a cleaning every 100k miles, and it came with a 1 million mile warranty 😂 not joking
Me too, I just cleaned mine tho after 18k miles. Took a bowl of water and dawn soap and shook it around in there for a bit. Very brown water
thats a gimmic, it would never last 100k miles without a cleaning. Is it a K&N setup? K&N is the only one I really know about that goes insane with the 100,000 mile stupidity. Dont know how many customers came in with their filters that were so caked and crushed from the engine trying to run through the plugged filter that you couldnt clean it and had to replace it. They all use the same line, "but its good for 100k miles".
Does the filter disintegrated in these filters. Mine looks like it’s just metal. I can my tell if there should be a layer of filter material in there.
I know this is a car oriented vid but... If that's where you live, dude nice house
I live in many places lol if you see my channel you can tell haha
Nate I have a question, so my mother has one of these under the hood on her 2003 four Thunderbird engine! And the filter and the area around it is filthy with soot!!! What can I do why is it doing that?
That la Mesa autozone 👌🏼
Buy a stock oem filter and housing k&n filters are terrible for your motor great air flow from them but they do let very small particles into for instance my experience has pitted every one of my turbo wheels causing internal damage no good
Bought my 08 g35 a few months ago and was wondering if these filters were reusable haha they were already grey 🤣
that was helpful thank you
I recently bought air cleaner cover with k&n with it...it was used...I'm in the middle of cleaning it now...its drying now...wut is the difference 2 theses filter compared 2 the regular ones??
Hey man what do I use to remove the bracket losen the bracket ????
I have a 2012 c250 Mercedes coupe with a bms cold air intake will this be okay to use ?
great video! never knew i needed this untill my tuner shows my air intake temps are getting to 140 degrees Fahrenheit and my fuel trims are kinda wacky
While driving in 20F-degrees weather, my car's instrument screen shows 75F-air-intake
How much do you think you've spent on the performance modifications?
I’m impatient, so when it’s time to dry the filter, can I just hook it to the exhaust of the car and run it for a while ? Should blow lots of hot air through the filter, right🤔...
::Emperor Palpatine:: voice”Do it!”...👹
😂