I use Panasonic cameras. On these, there’s the option to have the EVF / rear panel display in monochrome. This way it doesn’t matter what the scene dominant color is, peaking outline is always and predictably visible. In general, I use the EVF / panel only as a framing tool. The emphasis is on getting the composition right in camera. So grid lines, artificial horizon, and of course peaking are all great tools. Leaving the panel in monochrome also gives a decent idea of what the exposure could look like in b&w.
John...out hiking yesterday and compared focus peaking to AF where I thought I would have dof to infinity, more or less. Shot w both, handheld, not the greatest test but turn focus until all bright red and the red started to fade. Turned back to bright red took the shot and greatere dof than AF. So have the hang of it now. When on a tripod and a serious shot I might want to print I will now use it and check w magnification if time allows. I still prefer magnification if I can. Thanks.
I have to use Focus Peaking when using vintage, manual lenses, specifically M42 for my SDQH, it’s so much easier to get those sharp edges without breaking the bank on SA Mount Lenses.
Fuji X-T5 bug. On most Fuji cameras Focus peaking is an excellent way to manually focus. Half pressing the shutter release temporarily disables the peaking highlights so that the viewfinder is clear for composing the shot. Unfortunately the XT-5 has a bug which means the peaking highlights aren't disabled, and worse still they shimmer in low light environments. Please fix the X-T5 bug Fuji!
Hi John, I am a fashion photographer. Runway portrait etc. I generally use AF canon 24-105 Zoom but just bought two Manual lens (7 Artisans 55mm 35 mm) and use it just as a change up. What threshold would be best to use ?
Low will probably be very difficult to see, especially if things are moving fast. Try it out though, you may find it works good enough so long as you’re not at super-wide apertures.
Hi, Great video on focus peaking. Just have one doubt. To my knowledge, focus peaking is only applicable when we are in manual focus mode. Is that correct?
Yes and no. If you have AF+MF enabled, and you override your autofocus lock with the manual focus ring, then you’ll see the focus peaking if it’s selected.
When I first heard of it I was excited as it would help with landscape images. Then when I turned it on and I used it, well all was Red and I figured it was in focus. Then I checked the image and I was disappointed. I quickly learned that just because the image was outlined in red (or another color) it does not necessarily mean all was in focus. I noticed that when I turned the manual focus ring the given color would change intensity as the focus ring was rotated. I read when the color is at the maximum all is in focus. I tried that, what is maximum, and still, the end result was poor and not all the areas were in focus. I realized that it also has to do with the given focus point and F stop you choose F2.8 vs F11. So I gave up and went back to using the tried and true magnification as with my Canon 5DX. That always worked. Thanks as I like to see what is in focus and the magnification works best for me. To as I would only use this when on a tripod as I assume you do, I am in no rush so I can take my time to focus using the magnification method. Cheers and stay healthy
Yeah if you've got time then focus magnification is definitely a much better way to ensure accuracy and "do it right." I've always been pretty happy with the performance of focus peaking in both my Fuji and Sony cameras, in documentary-style situations where I'm not producing prints for huge enlargements but need to focus quickly. Cheers.
@@PeltierPhoto I see it for on tripod only as handheld you can use AF as Fuji is fine. Move a few millimeters with handheld and you are out of focus if using Fp. Documentary style I would be using SS priority/auto ISO as I do not care about DoF and I have done this. Normally AF is fine as you are focusing on the subject and do not need a lot of DoF. Thanks for the reply
Apparently different camera makes implement peaking differently. I use Panasonics. The peaking threshold is selectable, but is binary. when the threshold is set low, it’s accurate enough to get eyelash or iris sharp with f0.95 lenses at maximum aperture. Setting the EVF for monochrome display also makes the peaking always visible. Anyhow, I find this feature invaluable when using MF lenses. It’s frankly better than split prism and the like of my old MF film SLRs.
All I can say there is peaking on my Leicas and Z6, and nowhere does it compete well with proper focusing. Even if you turn on medium sensitivity and can see the red peaking, rack the focus and it stays on way to long. Turn to max, end everything is RED. Low sensitivity, takes too long and is hard to see and sometimes never appears.
How accurate is your lens? :) Focus peaking doesn't do anything until the light has already passed through the lens to your sensor, so up to that point, it's all on your lens focusing abilities.
@@PeltierPhoto I see. Was asking because read somewhere that the camera has got some tolerances and if you think about it, the lens does not matter because you are relying on the camera to acquire the focus confirmation, peaking, guide whatever. Even if your lens is 50% not accurate it will accurately focus because you are using the camera feature to adjust the focus hence why I asked this. Thought you knew this. Thanks.
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
I use Panasonic cameras. On these, there’s the option to have the EVF / rear panel display in monochrome. This way it doesn’t matter what the scene dominant color is, peaking outline is always and predictably visible.
In general, I use the EVF / panel only as a framing tool. The emphasis is on getting the composition right in camera. So grid lines, artificial horizon, and of course peaking are all great tools. Leaving the panel in monochrome also gives a decent idea of what the exposure could look like in b&w.
Yeah, monochrome modes are excellent for composing. Hide the distraction of the color and focus on the arrangement of shapes. Great add.
John...out hiking yesterday and compared focus peaking to AF where I thought I would have dof to infinity, more or less. Shot w both, handheld, not the greatest test but turn focus until all bright red and the red started to fade. Turned back to bright red took the shot and greatere dof than AF. So have the hang of it now. When on a tripod and a serious shot I might want to print I will now use it and check w magnification if time allows. I still prefer magnification if I can. Thanks.
Clearer than the water of the Pyrenees (as we say here in Spain), getting to the point and without detours, thank you very much.
You’re welcome :)
Nice clear explanation. Thank you
thank you, Verry good and helpful over view
Extremely helpful video. Thanks so much.
You’re welcome!
Straight to the point. Excellent video!
Straight to the point is my thing :) Thanks!
I have to use Focus Peaking when using vintage, manual lenses, specifically M42 for my SDQH, it’s so much easier to get those sharp edges without breaking the bank on SA Mount Lenses.
Yeah it's a great technology that doesn't depend on the lens at all since it's all done via the sensor.
Nice and informative
Fuji X-T5 bug. On most Fuji cameras Focus peaking is an excellent way to manually focus. Half pressing the shutter release temporarily disables the peaking highlights so that the viewfinder is clear for composing the shot. Unfortunately the XT-5 has a bug which means the peaking highlights aren't disabled, and worse still they shimmer in low light environments. Please fix the X-T5 bug Fuji!
Oh wow I hadn’t noticed that, good catch!
Very nice vid, thanks!
Thanks for the feedback!
Awesome video, John! Appreciate it very much. Very detailed and straight forward. 👌 😊
You’re welcome!
Hi John, I am a fashion photographer. Runway portrait etc. I generally use AF canon 24-105 Zoom but just bought two Manual lens (7 Artisans 55mm 35 mm) and use it just as a change up. What threshold would be best to use ?
Low will probably be very difficult to see, especially if things are moving fast. Try it out though, you may find it works good enough so long as you’re not at super-wide apertures.
Hi,
Great video on focus peaking. Just have one doubt. To my knowledge, focus peaking is only applicable when we are in manual focus mode. Is that correct?
Yes and no. If you have AF+MF enabled, and you override your autofocus lock with the manual focus ring, then you’ll see the focus peaking if it’s selected.
sir.. nice explanation. liked the video but why focus peaking is not available in auto focus mode. pl advise
It is in some modes and cameras. In Fujifilm, you have to have AF+MF turned on. Then peaking shows when you move the MF ring after using autofocus.
When I first heard of it I was excited as it would help with landscape images. Then when I turned it on and I used it, well all was Red and I figured it was in focus. Then I checked the image and I was disappointed. I quickly learned that just because the image was outlined in red (or another color) it does not necessarily mean all was in focus. I noticed that when I turned the manual focus ring the given color would change intensity as the focus ring was rotated. I read when the color is at the maximum all is in focus. I tried that, what is maximum, and still, the end result was poor and not all the areas were in focus. I realized that it also has to do with the given focus point and F stop you choose F2.8 vs F11. So I gave up and went back to using the tried and true magnification as with my Canon 5DX. That always worked. Thanks as I like to see what is in focus and the magnification works best for me. To as I would only use this when on a tripod as I assume you do, I am in no rush so I can take my time to focus using the magnification method. Cheers and stay healthy
Yeah if you've got time then focus magnification is definitely a much better way to ensure accuracy and "do it right." I've always been pretty happy with the performance of focus peaking in both my Fuji and Sony cameras, in documentary-style situations where I'm not producing prints for huge enlargements but need to focus quickly. Cheers.
@@PeltierPhoto I see it for on tripod only as handheld you can use AF as Fuji is fine. Move a few millimeters with handheld and you are out of focus if using Fp. Documentary style I would be using SS priority/auto ISO as I do not care about DoF and I have done this. Normally AF is fine as you are focusing on the subject and do not need a lot of DoF. Thanks for the reply
Apparently different camera makes implement peaking differently. I use Panasonics. The peaking threshold is selectable, but is binary. when the threshold is set low, it’s accurate enough to get eyelash or iris sharp with f0.95 lenses at maximum aperture. Setting the EVF for monochrome display also makes the peaking always visible.
Anyhow, I find this feature invaluable when using MF lenses. It’s frankly better than split prism and the like of my old MF film SLRs.
All I can say there is peaking on my Leicas and Z6, and nowhere does it compete well with proper focusing. Even if you turn on medium sensitivity and can see the red peaking, rack the focus and it stays on way to long. Turn to max, end everything is RED. Low sensitivity, takes too long and is hard to see and sometimes never appears.
I set the focus peaking in costume settings (q menu) and it's not working. Fuji xe-4
And you’re in Manual Focus mode? It won’t work if you’re in Autofocus.
Where were those shots taken?
Virginia City, Nevada
@@PeltierPhoto Gonna be going to Nelson Ghost Town in June.
That’s a bit further south from me, but there are some amazing ghost towns and mining camps between here and there!
How accurate is the focus peaking with old lenses?
How accurate is your lens? :)
Focus peaking doesn't do anything until the light has already passed through the lens to your sensor, so up to that point, it's all on your lens focusing abilities.
@@PeltierPhoto I see. Was asking because read somewhere that the camera has got some tolerances and if you think about it, the lens does not matter because you are relying on the camera to acquire the focus confirmation, peaking, guide whatever. Even if your lens is 50% not accurate it will accurately focus because you are using the camera feature to adjust the focus hence why I asked this. Thought you knew this. Thanks.
Focus peaking cant be good for birds as trees bushes light up making your subject questionable?
It's all situation-dependent; depth-of-field, density of bushes, range, magnification level, bird movement, etc.