A lot of fuji embassador or other explain all of these, but the way you explain alot more understandable and informations you offer alot more complete than the other. Thank you so so much
As a minimalist newbie photographer who shoots all manual 99% of the time I never cared for auto ISO. In fact I didn't even know what it really does. This video opened my eyes right away. The presentation of the animation where the complexity of the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and the motive brightness was explained is extremely helpful. Like always great tutorial. Thanks bunches.
Thank you Mr. Peltier! You're a very very good instructor. Keep doing things just like this. I've been struggling with this as I hadn't found a good video explaining this. No-one has explained the AUTO shutter speed function utilizes in particular the reciprocal rule.
Nice job explaining Auto ISO. I do have a couple of comments. I set all my max ISO settings to 12,800, the camera always tries to use the lowest ISO possible. In my opinion this reduces the possibility of the camera lowering my set min shutter speed. I'd rather have a grainy photo than a blurry one. Another thing that can throw off these settings in how you set up the D-range setting. I used Auto for a while and for the life of me I just couldn't figure out why in a scene in good light with a lot of contrast that my camera would use such a high ISO setting. Once I learned what the D-range does effect this I set it to 100 the camera does not do this anymore. I've not seen a lot about this and it would be nice is this was also added to something like this.
Sometimes leaving the max ISO at a lower setting will help you realize that some of your other settings are less than ideal, especially if you're concerned about noise. Yeah there's not a lot about how Auto ISO and D-Rng work together, maybe I'll write an article about it soon on my blog. Cheers.
excellent! love it! I made one minor change to your setup. I have ISO set to my back dial so instead of the order you had I switched the AUTO 1 and 2 position. That way the low ISO is in auto 1, mid is 2, 3 is high. This way when you need to go low or high, you can just twist the dial once to the right or left. I do wish they will change the SS to RED color if they are going below the minimum we set.
He said it is a pseudo-SS b/c you are setting your minimum SS. It has nothing to do w your aperture. True your aperture let x amount of light in which will affect the minimum SS/ISO when you have set these. I use this all the time but so important to know when not to use it. I goofed at wedding and forgot I had this set to 6400 and got to much noise but acceptable. I did not know the Auto SS detected focal length....but still need to keep an eye on your SS
True and true. It's most useful in Aperture Priority (and Program AE if anyone uses that) because when you're in Shutter Priority or Manual, the shutter speed you have set on the camera overrides the min SS programmed in your AUTO ISO.
@@PeltierPhoto You wrote...It's most useful in Aperture Priority (and Program AE if anyone uses that.......So I am wrong about having nothing to do with aperture? I can see what you mean. Set a minimum SS when in Ap so you will not drop to low to prevent motion blur. I was in Africa this past summer on a mission trip as the photographer, documentary type. I just used S-priority as it was a run and gun type. Set the SS (in auto ISO) a bit to low but all turned out fine. I did not care about aperture setting as DoF was not a concern. When handheld, run, and gun type, I will use S-priority to prevent motion blur. When relaxed and shooting for the fun of it I am always on M exposure as I want to control. That is what I like about mirrorless and the live histogram. It takes the guesswork out of exposure or much faster as I do not need to use the spot meter and then estimate the correct EV.... Enjoy your articles....
@@PeltierPhoto I now understand the why with Ap keeping the SS high enough....I use it across the board in all exposure modes as I employ it for EC when I set it at 6400. I make the adjustment via the back cmd dial, XT3. Many ways to do things...but I always keep mt eye on the SS to make sure it does not drop below the reciprocal of focal length. With OIS it changes the game a bit but not motion blur and that is what I am more concerned about with subjects that move vs camera blurr. Thanks for getting me to think more about this....and Auto ISO keeps the SS correct w focal length when there is ample light.
Hi John, many thanks for a great video. I had been playing around with auto ISO on my Fuji X-Pro 2 but had not even considered or thought about setting a minimum and maximum range using the custom setting. You have made my day. Excellent work.
While I'm a huge fan of the concept of minimum shutter speeds and contend that it's superior to a fixed shutter speed in the majority of photographic use-cases, Fuji's implementation still leaves a lot to be desired. It's not as convenient to switch minimum shutter speeds as it is for fixed, you can only have three settings (per custom setting group), the fastest minimum shutter speed allowed is 1/500 (at least on the X-T20 and the camera shown in this video) and the "AUTO" min shutter speed ignores OIS. For anyone interested in my further analysis of these issues (and the solutions I have proposed to resolve them), search for my article titled "Fixing Fujifilm Shutter Speed - Five Recommendations"
Haha! Loved the Aliens landing scenario. I've been struggled with my new to me 100-400mm lens, and getting grossly underexposed pictures of deer in tricky lightening situations (deers in shade of trees, and streaks on sunlight between house in the field in the foreground). Oddly my EVF did not show a grossly dark preview. Though someone has advised me a "Red" ISO or shutter speed reading was the warning I should be looking for. Note this is using an XH-1. Thanks for the informative video!
Yes if you see any exposure variables in red/orange right before you fully depress the shutter, then it won't be able to give you what you're asking for due to either shutter or aperture limitations. I guess I do have one of my Auto ISO programs set up for the alien landing, and I WILL use it to document first contact! 😂
Auto minimum ss would be set to 1/34 for a 23 mm lens on an APS-C camera because the reciprocal rule actually goes off of the full frame equivalent for focal length, NOT the APS-C focal length. Since 23 mm ~ 35mm full frame equivalent, that is why. :)
And it'd be set to 1/60 with a GFX 80mm lens. Yes, I should have mentioned equivalent focal lengths, but that's a whole other can of worms I didn't want to get into in one video :)
As for lenses and min. shutter speed I've learned in some old folks forums that the rule of thumb was that shutter speed should read focal length by 2. Not sure if that is oversimplified but seems to make sense to me. On a 200mm lens a SS of 200 seems quite low to me.
Yeah, there's just so many variables that go into it, individual photographers will have different rules. The 2x factor could be a good one for calculating for APS-C sensors without having to do harder math. Or it could be for people who drink too much coffee or just have shakey hands. Best bet is to see which rule works best for you.
@@PeltierPhoto Nowadays my hands are much better than in my wilder days ;) I'm using the same breathing tech as I'm using at the gun range. Works best for me even w/o IBIS and at low SS. Cheers
This is really a practical video which is very useful. Thanks for the video. I am facing this noise problem when I set the auto iso it bps up when there is low light and inturn noise is coming in the pictures. How to control the noise? Even the iso has gone up the scene is not getting bright. In these situations how to handle? Please answer. Thanks
We’ll presented tutorial. Thanks so much. I have one question. If you set shutter speed to Auto and the sun is bright, will the camera give you a higher SS than the minimum you set? Thanks so much.
Yeah, the minimum shutter speed is just the minimum. It’ll go as fast as it needs to on bright days. But it will go slower than the minimum in really dark scenes.
Thank you for the thorough explanation. Have a XT3 a couple of days and as you can imagine, have been browsing all over to see if I can catch up the system and go out for a shoot. A lot of videos searched, but this one is by far the most accurate and simple that I could find. When setting the AUTO, depending on the settings I see the 'MAX ISO' (Max Sensitivity) on the Display or EVF fixed (it doesn't vary). From the explanation I understood that is the max value and the camera chooses the appropriate ISO...I have tried so many settings that I would swear that I have seen the value changing... Is that possible in some other setting? (of course other than manual). Looking forward for future videos - so much to learn! Cheers
Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the display will show your MAX ISO until you press the shutter button halfway. Once you press the shutter halfway (in factory settings) the exposure is locked, and it will show you what the actual calculated ISO is for that exposure.
@@PeltierPhoto I just watched your video. Like what Carlos stated (I too have the XT3), the ISO does not change at all - it stays at 1250. I have it set up with the minimum SS of Auto, a minimum ISO of 200, and a maximum ISO of 1600; However, in any scene, whether a bright scene or darker scene, it stays on ISO 1250. I do have both the SS and ISO dials on A. I use back button focusing; and when I press the shutter half way, it still shows ISO 1250 no matter what. I'm wondering what I may be missing. Thank you. Monica
Hmm I’m at a loss…all my other cameras display the final ISO value when I lock the exposure prior to capturing the photo. But your photos aren’t all created using 1250, that’s just what it displays at capture?
Ah yes that's right. Those settings are rather useless anyways - you don't really get "better" quality by going to L, and H has just waaaaay too much noise!
Maybe you can help here. The problem I run onto w Auto ISO is blown highlights outdoors or when the DR exceeds the sensor. When I adjust the SS to reduce the blown highlights, well as you know the ISO will keep increasing as I increase the SS to try and reduce blown highlights,. So I will just set an ISO manually as this just happens when outdoors, clouds or flowers which happened yesterday. So Auto is good if your DR is within the tolerance of the sensor, but if not then I will just use CMD for setting ISO which can be set quickly in the menu. If I am wrong pls lmk
Just use the Exposure Compensation - turn it down a third of a stop or whatever you need to reduce the overexposure. That’ll keep your Auto ISO in check.
Sorry to find you here on RUclips after pestering you so much in the comments section of your article, but resources on Fuji auto ISO aren't that abundant 😅 I don't understand why you wouldn't use the maximum available ISO setting on all three auto ISO settings. With your documentary setting for example, if you find yourself in a situation where ISO 6400 won't properly expose the scene, the shutter speed will drop and potentially cause a blurred image. Wouldn't a sharp image always be preferable to a noisier one? Say for example you didn't have time to switch over to your third low light auto ISO settings and you're shooting in an extremely low-light setting. And you may have left this out for simplicity, but the auto minimum shutter speed is based on the 35mm equivalent focal length, so will be approx. 1.5x higher than the stated focal length (or 1/500 due to a weird artificial limitation put in place by Fuji, whichever is slower). At least it is with my version of firmware :) Overall great vid and very clear explanation!
If my preferred maximum ISO isn't high enough in any of my three programs (THREE? We're so lucky, the other big brands only give you one) then I change strategies. Use a tripod for still photography, change/add artificial lighting for documentary work, be sure to bring a fast lens if I know I'll be working in darker environments... There's plenty of ways to crack that nut.
@@PeltierPhoto great points on low light shooting. While three is better than one, Fuji doesn't only need to beat the competitors in the camera market, it needs to convince a new generation of photographers that a real camera is worth the bulk and expense, and I don't think they can do that with the film-era mentality that makes minimum shutter speeds seem like an afterthought, making the ux cumbersome. Freezing action and preventing camera shake are so core to photography that I'm not going to give Fuji a free pass on this one because they happen to be better than others.
Basically the min shutter speed almost irrelevant! The camera can override itself. Useless i think.. When i do event, i put a min ss to freeze moment, and max iso to control noise. Yet still the camera override shutter lower than the min choosen shutter.
The camera is overriding itself because it's trying to give you the exposure that you asked for, which it prioritizes. If it didn't override you, all of your photos would be dark and unusable. YOU have to help IT out by either increasing artificial lighting, using a fast lens, accepting a slower shutter speed, or accepting a higher ISO. Don't be afraid of a high ISO - even 6400 is pretty good in many of today's cameras.
@@baimadji5830 right, if you set the shutter, aperture, and ISO yourself, your AUTO ISO settings won't do anything. The camera won't override anything. If you set the shutter and aperture yourself but stay in AUTO ISO, it will still work but it will only adjust the ISO, not the shutter too.
Hi John, I was looking for this comment. Im using an xs10 with a sigma 30mm 1.4. I already set the SS to min 1/125 but it still goes slower than that 😢
A lot of fuji embassador or other explain all of these, but the way you explain alot more understandable and informations you offer alot more complete than the other.
Thank you so so much
Thank you for the feedback, great to hear!
That was excellent! I’ve been going crazy trying to learn my new xt3 and this solved one of my biggest issues.🙏🙏
As a minimalist newbie photographer who shoots all manual 99% of the time I never cared for auto ISO. In fact I didn't even know what it really does. This video opened my eyes right away. The presentation of the animation where the complexity of the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and the motive brightness was explained is extremely helpful. Like always great tutorial. Thanks bunches.
It was a game-changer for me once I embraced it!
After being away from photography during COVID I'm now catching-up for upcoming travel - thanks.
Thank you Mr. Peltier! You're a very very good instructor. Keep doing things just like this. I've been struggling with this as I hadn't found a good video explaining this. No-one has explained the AUTO shutter speed function utilizes in particular the reciprocal rule.
Thanks Timo, glad it helped! I've had to take a little break but I'll get back to producing soon :)
Nice job explaining Auto ISO. I do have a couple of comments. I set all my max ISO settings to 12,800, the camera always tries to use the lowest ISO possible. In my opinion this reduces the possibility of the camera lowering my set min shutter speed. I'd rather have a grainy photo than a blurry one. Another thing that can throw off these settings in how you set up the D-range setting. I used Auto for a while and for the life of me I just couldn't figure out why in a scene in good light with a lot of contrast that my camera would use such a high ISO setting. Once I learned what the D-range does effect this I set it to 100 the camera does not do this anymore. I've not seen a lot about this and it would be nice is this was also added to something like this.
Sometimes leaving the max ISO at a lower setting will help you realize that some of your other settings are less than ideal, especially if you're concerned about noise.
Yeah there's not a lot about how Auto ISO and D-Rng work together, maybe I'll write an article about it soon on my blog. Cheers.
excellent! love it!
I made one minor change to your setup. I have ISO set to my back dial so instead of the order you had I switched the AUTO 1 and 2 position. That way the low ISO is in auto 1, mid is 2, 3 is high. This way when you need to go low or high, you can just twist the dial once to the right or left.
I do wish they will change the SS to RED color if they are going below the minimum we set.
Makes sense to me! Yes, it would be nice if we had a warning about shutter speed minimums. I'll make a recommendation :)
Helpful as I did not know about auto SS and detecting lens....too I use Auto ISO as EC to adjust exposure via the histogram in any exposure mode...
Yeah that Auto SS is a pretty cool feature!
Finally someone who clearly explains this concept. Basically, its Aperture Priority.
He said it is a pseudo-SS b/c you are setting your minimum SS. It has nothing to do w your aperture. True your aperture let x amount of light in which will affect the minimum SS/ISO when you have set these. I use this all the time but so important to know when not to use it. I goofed at wedding and forgot I had this set to 6400 and got to much noise but acceptable. I did not know the Auto SS detected focal length....but still need to keep an eye on your SS
True and true. It's most useful in Aperture Priority (and Program AE if anyone uses that) because when you're in Shutter Priority or Manual, the shutter speed you have set on the camera overrides the min SS programmed in your AUTO ISO.
@@PeltierPhoto You wrote...It's most useful in Aperture Priority (and Program AE if anyone uses that.......So I am wrong about having nothing to do with aperture? I can see what you mean. Set a minimum SS when in Ap so you will not drop to low to prevent motion blur. I was in Africa this past summer on a mission trip as the photographer, documentary type. I just used S-priority as it was a run and gun type. Set the SS (in auto ISO) a bit to low but all turned out fine. I did not care about aperture setting as DoF was not a concern. When handheld, run, and gun type, I will use S-priority to prevent motion blur. When relaxed and shooting for the fun of it I am always on M exposure as I want to control. That is what I like about mirrorless and the live histogram. It takes the guesswork out of exposure or much faster as I do not need to use the spot meter and then estimate the correct EV....
Enjoy your articles....
@@TomGibson7777TGno you're not wrong, I'm just saying this feature has its most utility in Aperture Priority.
@@PeltierPhoto I now understand the why with Ap keeping the SS high enough....I use it across the board in all exposure modes as I employ it for EC when I set it at 6400. I make the adjustment via the back cmd dial, XT3. Many ways to do things...but I always keep mt eye on the SS to make sure it does not drop below the reciprocal of focal length. With OIS it changes the game a bit but not motion blur and that is what I am more concerned about with subjects that move vs camera blurr. Thanks for getting me to think more about this....and Auto ISO keeps the SS correct w focal length when there is ample light.
Thanks a lot! I will set this in my new Fujifilm camera right away!
You're good teacher. Thanks, John.
I just wish my video production skills were as good 😂
I appreciate the feedback! Cheers.
Thank you for the video! Absolutely love it!
You’re welcome!
Hi John, many thanks for a great video. I had been playing around with auto ISO on my Fuji X-Pro 2 but had not even considered or thought about setting a minimum and maximum range using the custom setting. You have made my day. Excellent work.
I hope it helps you create some great work!
Thank you; this tip is quite helpful!
You’re welcome, glad you found it useful!
Thanks for keeping it so simple. Not a single dislike
Why the hell have I not seen this video. Gosh, this helped me so much, thankyou thankyou thankyou 💜
Tinabean awesome, glad you found it useful!
Thank for this Video
While I'm a huge fan of the concept of minimum shutter speeds and contend that it's superior to a fixed shutter speed in the majority of photographic use-cases, Fuji's implementation still leaves a lot to be desired. It's not as convenient to switch minimum shutter speeds as it is for fixed, you can only have three settings (per custom setting group), the fastest minimum shutter speed allowed is 1/500 (at least on the X-T20 and the camera shown in this video) and the "AUTO" min shutter speed ignores OIS. For anyone interested in my further analysis of these issues (and the solutions I have proposed to resolve them), search for my article titled "Fixing Fujifilm Shutter Speed - Five Recommendations"
Haha! Loved the Aliens landing scenario. I've been struggled with my new to me 100-400mm lens, and getting grossly underexposed pictures of deer in tricky lightening situations (deers in shade of trees, and streaks on sunlight between house in the field in the foreground). Oddly my EVF did not show a grossly dark preview. Though someone has advised me a "Red" ISO or shutter speed reading was the warning I should be looking for. Note this is using an XH-1. Thanks for the informative video!
Yes if you see any exposure variables in red/orange right before you fully depress the shutter, then it won't be able to give you what you're asking for due to either shutter or aperture limitations.
I guess I do have one of my Auto ISO programs set up for the alien landing, and I WILL use it to document first contact! 😂
Auto minimum ss would be set to 1/34 for a 23 mm lens on an APS-C camera because the reciprocal rule actually goes off of the full frame equivalent for focal length, NOT the APS-C focal length. Since 23 mm ~ 35mm full frame equivalent, that is why. :)
And it'd be set to 1/60 with a GFX 80mm lens. Yes, I should have mentioned equivalent focal lengths, but that's a whole other can of worms I didn't want to get into in one video :)
I just found your channel. It's great, thank you.
Glad you enjoy it!
@@PeltierPhoto It's fantastic. I could not get my head around the Auto ISO on my Zf and now it is starting to make sense.
@@nespressoman awesome to hear!
I wish I had watched you first, before the last 157 videos ive watched on this. Well explained, thank you.
I think we've all lost too much of our life to RUclips :)
As for lenses and min. shutter speed I've learned in some old folks forums that the rule of thumb was that shutter speed should read focal length by 2. Not sure if that is oversimplified but seems to make sense to me. On a 200mm lens a SS of 200 seems quite low to me.
Yeah, there's just so many variables that go into it, individual photographers will have different rules. The 2x factor could be a good one for calculating for APS-C sensors without having to do harder math. Or it could be for people who drink too much coffee or just have shakey hands. Best bet is to see which rule works best for you.
@@PeltierPhoto Nowadays my hands are much better than in my wilder days ;) I'm using the same breathing tech as I'm using at the gun range. Works best for me even w/o IBIS and at low SS. Cheers
thank you
This is really a practical video which is very useful. Thanks for the video. I am facing this noise problem when I set the auto iso it bps up when there is low light and inturn noise is coming in the pictures. How to control the noise? Even the iso has gone up the scene is not getting bright. In these situations how to handle? Please answer. Thanks
If there’s low light you’re going to have noise unless you have a long shutter speed or a very wide aperture.
We’ll presented tutorial. Thanks so much. I have one question. If you set shutter speed to Auto and the sun is bright, will the camera give you a higher SS than the minimum you set? Thanks so much.
Yeah, the minimum shutter speed is just the minimum. It’ll go as fast as it needs to on bright days. But it will go slower than the minimum in really dark scenes.
@@PeltierPhoto thanks so much!
Thank you for the thorough explanation. Have a XT3 a couple of days and as you can imagine, have been browsing all over to see if I can catch up the system and go out for a shoot.
A lot of videos searched, but this one is by far the most accurate and simple that I could find.
When setting the AUTO, depending on the settings I see the 'MAX ISO' (Max Sensitivity) on the Display or EVF fixed (it doesn't vary). From the explanation I understood that is the max value and the camera chooses the appropriate ISO...I have tried so many settings that I would swear that I have seen the value changing... Is that possible in some other setting? (of course other than manual).
Looking forward for future videos - so much to learn! Cheers
Thanks for the feedback!
Yes, the display will show your MAX ISO until you press the shutter button halfway. Once you press the shutter halfway (in factory settings) the exposure is locked, and it will show you what the actual calculated ISO is for that exposure.
@@PeltierPhoto Thank You for the quick reply! Cheers
@@PeltierPhoto I just watched your video. Like what Carlos stated (I too have the XT3), the ISO does not change at all - it stays at 1250. I have it set up with the minimum SS of Auto, a minimum ISO of 200, and a maximum ISO of 1600; However, in any scene, whether a bright scene or darker scene, it stays on ISO 1250. I do have both the SS and ISO dials on A. I use back button focusing; and when I press the shutter half way, it still shows ISO 1250 no matter what. I'm wondering what I may be missing. Thank you. Monica
Hmm I’m at a loss…all my other cameras display the final ISO value when I lock the exposure prior to capturing the photo. But your photos aren’t all created using 1250, that’s just what it displays at capture?
@@PeltierPhoto I will check again the issue. Shooting always manual and will have a look again. Cheers
Thx for explanation. Setting ISO dial to L or H negates the max/min settings as I’m finding out. :)
Ah yes that's right. Those settings are rather useless anyways - you don't really get "better" quality by going to L, and H has just waaaaay too much noise!
Maybe you can help here. The problem I run onto w Auto ISO is blown highlights outdoors or when the DR exceeds the sensor. When I adjust the SS to reduce the blown highlights, well as you know the ISO will keep increasing as I increase the SS to try and reduce blown highlights,. So I will just set an ISO manually as this just happens when outdoors, clouds or flowers which happened yesterday. So Auto is good if your DR is within the tolerance of the sensor, but if not then I will just use CMD for setting ISO which can be set quickly in the menu. If I am wrong pls lmk
Just use the Exposure Compensation - turn it down a third of a stop or whatever you need to reduce the overexposure. That’ll keep your Auto ISO in check.
@@PeltierPhoto I keep that on the "C" so I can adjust w the Cmd wheel. I have it dialed in now. Thanks
Wondering if there's a quick way without going through all the menus to quickly change the 3 Auto ISO settings ?.
If you have "ISO" programmed to a custom function control, you can press that and quickly change the settings rather than going through all the menus.
Sorry to find you here on RUclips after pestering you so much in the comments section of your article, but resources on Fuji auto ISO aren't that abundant 😅
I don't understand why you wouldn't use the maximum available ISO setting on all three auto ISO settings. With your documentary setting for example, if you find yourself in a situation where ISO 6400 won't properly expose the scene, the shutter speed will drop and potentially cause a blurred image. Wouldn't a sharp image always be preferable to a noisier one? Say for example you didn't have time to switch over to your third low light auto ISO settings and you're shooting in an extremely low-light setting.
And you may have left this out for simplicity, but the auto minimum shutter speed is based on the 35mm equivalent focal length, so will be approx. 1.5x higher than the stated focal length (or 1/500 due to a weird artificial limitation put in place by Fuji, whichever is slower). At least it is with my version of firmware :)
Overall great vid and very clear explanation!
If my preferred maximum ISO isn't high enough in any of my three programs (THREE? We're so lucky, the other big brands only give you one) then I change strategies. Use a tripod for still photography, change/add artificial lighting for documentary work, be sure to bring a fast lens if I know I'll be working in darker environments... There's plenty of ways to crack that nut.
@@PeltierPhoto great points on low light shooting. While three is better than one, Fuji doesn't only need to beat the competitors in the camera market, it needs to convince a new generation of photographers that a real camera is worth the bulk and expense, and I don't think they can do that with the film-era mentality that makes minimum shutter speeds seem like an afterthought, making the ux cumbersome. Freezing action and preventing camera shake are so core to photography that I'm not going to give Fuji a free pass on this one because they happen to be better than others.
Basically the min shutter speed almost irrelevant! The camera can override itself. Useless i think.. When i do event, i put a min ss to freeze moment, and max iso to control noise. Yet still the camera override shutter lower than the min choosen shutter.
The camera is overriding itself because it's trying to give you the exposure that you asked for, which it prioritizes. If it didn't override you, all of your photos would be dark and unusable. YOU have to help IT out by either increasing artificial lighting, using a fast lens, accepting a slower shutter speed, or accepting a higher ISO. Don't be afraid of a high ISO - even 6400 is pretty good in many of today's cameras.
John Peltier it will not work when i shoot manual with flash in manual mode right?
@@baimadji5830 right, if you set the shutter, aperture, and ISO yourself, your AUTO ISO settings won't do anything. The camera won't override anything. If you set the shutter and aperture yourself but stay in AUTO ISO, it will still work but it will only adjust the ISO, not the shutter too.
Hi John, I was looking for this comment. Im using an xs10 with a sigma 30mm 1.4. I already set the SS to min 1/125 but it still goes slower than that 😢