Great video. I have experienced the same issue with blurred photos with my Fujifilm X-100F. This has been really annoying me to the point I was thinking of selling the camera. Never had this issue with previous cameras This video is really helpful. I need to reset my auto ISO settings.
Very informative video. I was scared for a long time with my fuji xt-2 of shooting with auto iso. At first I would always have my iso set as low as possible and sometimes I would not pay attention to my shutter speed and get blurry shots. Then I tried setting my shutter speed to what I needed to avoid any motion blur or shake and let the camera choose the iso. I tried to set my max at 800 and found again this was not high enough. After being stubborn to many times I set my iso to max at 12,800. I found that if I was shooting higher than 800 iso and my shots were underexposed the grain looked bad if I boosted the shadow or exposure. Once I ensured I was exposing to the max the high iso shots look completely fine. Even at 12,800 if you fully expose the image the noise is hardly noticeable. I tried printing some of my high iso shots this past year, and I found in print the noise is much less noticeable than what you see on your computer screen. I have happily shooting in auto iso ever since even at 12,800 as long as I ensure I fully expose to the right. I hope this helps someone else out.
For camera shake, there is that old rule for longest shutter speed = 1/(focal length). For APS, you have to use equiv focal length. If you change lenses (I mostly use primes), then you have to change the setting. I wish Fuji would put in an option to use this formula automatically, at least for non-OIS lenses. With OIS, you can always hold 1/15th at any focal length in my experience, so then subject movement dominates the decision.
They do-it's the "AUTO" option under minimum shutter speed which is under the auto ISO settings, and it sets the minimum shutter speed at 1/(35mm equiv focal length). I have this on my X-T20 with latest firmware. Unfortunately this doesn't take into account OIS or IBIS (AFAIK), but it should work a treat for unstabilised lenses.
I really appreciate your continued support of the X100...all your videos have been very informative and practical. Can’t wait till you switch to the upcoming X-H2...hopefully you will continue with your videos!!! 📷
For my X-100f street photography, my preference for the 3 Auto ISO shutter speeds are 1/125, 1/500, and 1/1000s with the lens set at f8 and hyperfocal distance covering everything from 6 ft. to 30+ ft. I settled on these speeds as a result of numerous blurred images, not from shakey hand holding, but subject action, eg. cyclists, joggers, etc. I have to confess however that I am more 'comfortable' with a max ISO of 6400, rather than going for broke at 12,800. Enjoying your vlogs as usual.
@@jhemming Glad you asked. I put a small strip of black gaffer tape on the underside of the lens that temporarily 'locks' the aperture ring and focus ring together. If the rings get moved unintentionally, a quick look at the aperture setting (in my case f8) will tell you if it needs to be reset.
This is very interesting, since on my X-T20 the fastest minimum shutter speed is annoyingly just 1/500 (I looked at the docs for the X-T30 and it said it was also capped at 1/500). Is 1/1000 the fastest minimum shutter speed available on your X100f, or are there faster values available? I know the X100 line have fancy leaf shutters, but I don't see how this would have any bearing on minimum shutter speeds as slow as 1/500...
Thanks a lot. I will use these settings because they make sense,I got a Nikon I been using it for 11 years now and I got the Fuji also few years ago, hell the settings are terrible,I feel like a newbie to photography when I’m trying to find out the right exposure 😅
I am happy to learn that a pro like you has had the camera shake experience at the 1/30 second shutter speed that usually is OK for a 35 mm focal length. Yes, I can avoid shake at 1/30 if I remember to hold the camera properly with my left hand under the body (as I do under the lens naturally with my Canon 80D), but like you I am often taking a quick shot and holding the X100F with my left hand on the side of the camera rather than under it. So I have also set the minimum shutter speed at 1/60 and ISO at 6400 max for non-moving scenes, 1/125 and ISO 12,800 for possible movement scenes, and 1/500 and ISO 12,800 for stopping motion. Booray, what I particularly like about your videos is the way you separate the pro approach to photography from that of the capture the moment photographer. Keep it up.
I work my X100f very similar. I often set my ISO with my mark1 eyeball. Like you bright outside I’m on 100. I use the half shutter and look in the EVF and use the camera meter like a light meter. Looking at exposure and adjusting from there to the situation I’m shooting in... I use the cameras light meter like a light meter, and manually adjust from there until I get an exposure setting I think is spot on for the subject. I don’t shoot weddings where I might get distracted from changing light conditions but if you are using an EVF in a mirrorless camera its all right there every shot.... just look....
Boo "Hooray" - you nailed it; why not set this up for work & pleasure. The camera today are so good! Suggestion: on my x100f; I have the 3 Auto ISO's set for - 1) Daytime, 2) Golden Hour, and 3) Night. I have similarly set up my Sony for jobs; but with Sony you can set the SS either at the standard reciprocal rule or 2x rule (which I use to ensure sharpness). In any case, by using your camera this way you can focus on what's really important.
@@BoorayPerry Fuji has that feature also (my X-T4 at least, I don't have the x100v), when you set min. shutter speed to auto in the AUTO ISO settings menu. It will then choose the inverse of your focal length.
Great channel Booray! I bought a X100F recently partly bc of your channel. Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I’ve found that the shutter speed can drop below the set minimum in auto iso especially when in low light conditions. I’ve read on forums that Fuji cameras will overwrote the shutter speed if it can’t push the ISO above the set limit to preserve the exposure. Not sure if that’s something that you’d been experiencing either.
YES. When the camera is at the limit you've set for both ISO and SS, it will lower SS below the limit. This is why i have my ISO limit set high. :) Thanks for watching!
Old habits are hard to break. I have already setup my Canon body with shutter speed and ISO limits a long while back. It's completely ready for me to use aperture priority same as what you described. Yet, what do I do... I shoot in manual mode and am still constantly adjusting everything as lighting changes dictate. I really should use the other modes when appropriate and save myself extra steps and sometimes missed shots.
Here's what I realized about auto ISO and it's why I use it: Imagine it's still daylight, a wedding has just finished, and some people are still inside the church, some are milling around under the portico, some are in the sunlight. You sure don't want to be constantly fiddling with the auto ISO knob as you keep switching from brighter and darker scenes. But that's not my ultimate point: when the camera sees that ISO needs to be bumped up, it bumps it. As soon as it sees it doesn't need such a high ISO, it lowers it. In effect, what that means is, auto ISO is constantly guaranteeing that you are always shooting at minimal ISO, ie, your camera is making sure your images are as noise free as possible. If you do it any other way, you'll inevitably end up with some shots that have more noise than they needed to have - because we're human, and we make mistakes.
Hi Booray... PLease update the AUto Iso setting you are using now... any difference from the above video ? It gives me more freedom taking the moment. Thank you so much !
When using auto iso settings, do you know what priorities the camera makes in regarding the iso, and shutterspeed. Will it sit in the highest limit iso in favor of higher shutter for example? Thanks in advance.
Very interesting! I have this camera too. Since it’s new to me I have pretty much the same setting. ISO and shutter on automatic. And autofocus as well. Sometimes I use aperture on auto too, but then I frequently use the under/over exposure knob-thing. I like shooting to get grain btw :-) It takes a lot less force to shake a light thing than a heavy thing. So it’s really harder to lock this light camera than heavy ones. I used a M6 before. As small but heavier. And the Fuji is much more sensitive than the m6.
I prefer to work with both shutter speed and aperture in manual mode and ISO auto. This allows you to have a little more manual control of the camera while still taking advantage of the ISO auto mode. You can even use exposure compensation which, in this configuration, will adjust ISO only. Low ISO limit set at 200, high limit 12800.
Thanks for the video. My ISO are the same as yours, the only thing different is the Shutter Speeds. Mine are a little higher than yours, because I was worried about camera shake. Auto 1 = 1/125, Auto 2 = 1/250 & Auto 3 = 1/500. Do you see anything wrong with my settings? Thanks, Bob
Got my x100f for a week now and beside the user manual, your videos guides me a lot..thanks a bunch. One question did you find that this camera gets pretty warm after like 5 to 10 minutes of shooting?
I wrote you a year ago telling you that we are totally in sync re this subject. However, on Thanksgiving I used the X100f with the Godox TT350 flash but instead of setting the aperture, I left it on A. The result was everything being shot at f/2 and higher ISO's than I wanted, as high as 12800, even though the flash fired on TTL. What did I do wrong?
If you leave it up to the camera, it will try to get the correct exposure using everything but the flash FIRST. That's why you need to set your aperture, iso and SS manually. This forces the flash to work within YOUR parameters. 👍
What i did when using autoISO with flash and aperture priority, is use the exposure compensation dial to underexpose a bit to get a lower ISO. Though I use flash in manual mostly dilaed between 1/32-1/16 power.
I know nothing about photography really and I'm watching all the videos about ISO settings. I changed my auto ISO to your set up but I dont know when to use them. Btw, my ISO settings only go up to 6400 on my t-x200, is that a "problem"?
It's not a problem at all. In fact you probably don't want to use 6400 as it's probably going to be too noisy. I use auto ISO anytime I'm not using flash.
A completely depends on the situation. If I am sitting in one place waiting for something to happen I will often use manual. If I am moving I use auto focus. The focus peaking in manual mode is really great
Very useful video, thanks! I already use auto iso on my X-T20 but like you still juggling with the settings. Very interested to try these out. One question, which auto iso setting do you recommend for low light situations with a bit of movement, auto2?
It's kind of something you have to work out for each camera. With a 35mm lens and a good hold on the camera you should be able to freeze most walking at, say 1/60? But put a longer lens on or shoot one handed and it's a different story. The traditional way to set shutter speed is to have it at least equal to the focal length of the lens. Back in the day, most people were shooting 35mm or 50mm so 1/60 became the default speed that most of us lived with.
Is using your x100f as your personal family travel camera because of the beautiful traditional controls, the small size and transportability, or the high IQ this leaf shutter camera delivers. I think it has a look that is very pleasing and distinct, much like Leica cameras (Leica Look) descriptions. Personally I think it is the leaf shutter combined with the Xtrans sensor, it’s just different than anything else and the images reflect that...even other Fugi X cameras images don’t look like X100f images. Why does a pro wedding photographer carry an X100f for his personal photography?
Hello Booray, i use auto iso but I find out, that if I seit the dynamic range from 100 to 200 than the iso stays above 320. What do you recommend regarding the dynamic range? 100, 200 or even 400? Thanks a lot. Marco from Germany
This is a great question. I've always believed that the lowest ISO is the best ISO but then I started to see makers like Fuji recommend higher ISO's for dynamic range. It makes sense when you think about it, ISO is basically just gain and if you want to have the most room to work with you don't want it bottomed out. So, to answer your question I set my DR at 200.
I have set up my X100F as you have suggested, but regardless of what I set my lowest shutter speed to (my lowest was 1/125th) the camera will go below that speed to get the shot. I must have something set up wrong and if anyone has had this happen or knows what I am doing wrong, I would appreciate your help.
It will still go below your set shutter speed limit if it has to. Are you saying that it goes below your shutter speed value BEFORE it reaches the top ISO value?
Sold all my Nikon gear years ago when the X100s first came out. Picked up an X100f late last year, but I've also kept my X100s. It's still a good camera. Your videos are a great help as I have unfortunately been unable to get out full-time with my cameras and really learn their settings. Working (Flying Helicopters) in Abu Dhabi has always gotten in the way of....... more important things, like photography. Look forward to more of your posts. Keep up the good work........
This is the usual practice with seasoned photographers. By the way, this aspect in this video has not incorporated the relationship with DR setting. A missing link??
@@BoorayPerry .... No. It's part of setting. Only when the DR is set to 100% iso will change as expected. Else, in high dynamic range scene, it will change differently, even within the defined settings.
@@sundarAKintelart Define "change differently." If I set DR to 400 and change the aperture, the ISO setting still changes to adapt. The only difference is the starting ISO takes into account the "DR 400" setting.
@@BoorayPerry .... When DR is set to 400%, the base or preferred ISO is set to say 200, and at a given minimum shutter speed, if the scene is a high dynamic one, like a bright sky and mid to deep sub tones in the middle and lower side, the iso (though can be held at the given shutter speed) will bias towards the set DR of 400 and the iso will shift to 640 or 800 and the aperture will set accordingly to accomplish the required exposure. Thanks.
@@sundarAKintelart That seems to me to be how it should work if you are letting the camera pick your aperture and you have told the camera you want 400% DR. Am I missing something?
Sometimes I do include images when I feel they are needed but when discussing menu settings it's really more about the menu. Check out ruclips.net/video/IH7DMME0Fok/видео.html for images. :)
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. I have experienced the same issue with blurred photos with my Fujifilm X-100F. This has been really annoying me to the point I was thinking of selling the camera. Never had this issue with previous cameras This video is really helpful. I need to reset my auto ISO settings.
Glad I could help!
@@BoorayPerry just tried your recommendation. Camera is now working perfectly. No camera shakes 😀
@@richardwells1709 Fantastic!
Very informative video. I was scared for a long time with my fuji xt-2 of shooting with auto iso. At first I would always have my iso set as low as possible and sometimes I would not pay attention to my shutter speed and get blurry shots. Then I tried setting my shutter speed to what I needed to avoid any motion blur or shake and let the camera choose the iso. I tried to set my max at 800 and found again this was not high enough. After being stubborn to many times I set my iso to max at 12,800. I found that if I was shooting higher than 800 iso and my shots were underexposed the grain looked bad if I boosted the shadow or exposure. Once I ensured I was exposing to the max the high iso shots look completely fine. Even at 12,800 if you fully expose the image the noise is hardly noticeable. I tried printing some of my high iso shots this past year, and I found in print the noise is much less noticeable than what you see on your computer screen. I have happily shooting in auto iso ever since even at 12,800 as long as I ensure I fully expose to the right. I hope this helps someone else out.
Oh yes, we wedding photographers know that the wedding album doesn't show near the grain that a computer does. :)
For camera shake, there is that old rule for longest shutter speed = 1/(focal length). For APS, you have to use equiv focal length. If you change lenses (I mostly use primes), then you have to change the setting. I wish Fuji would put in an option to use this formula automatically, at least for non-OIS lenses. With OIS, you can always hold 1/15th at any focal length in my experience, so then subject movement dominates the decision.
They do-it's the "AUTO" option under minimum shutter speed which is under the auto ISO settings, and it sets the minimum shutter speed at 1/(35mm equiv focal length). I have this on my X-T20 with latest firmware. Unfortunately this doesn't take into account OIS or IBIS (AFAIK), but it should work a treat for unstabilised lenses.
I really appreciate your continued support of the X100...all your videos have been very informative and practical. Can’t wait till you switch to the upcoming X-H2...hopefully you will continue with your videos!!! 📷
IF I switch you can be sure I will be making videos about it
For my X-100f street photography, my preference for the 3 Auto ISO shutter speeds are 1/125, 1/500, and 1/1000s with the lens set at f8 and hyperfocal distance covering everything from 6 ft. to 30+ ft. I settled on these speeds as a result of numerous blurred images, not from shakey hand holding, but subject action, eg. cyclists, joggers, etc. I have to confess however that I am more 'comfortable' with a max ISO of 6400, rather than going for broke at 12,800. Enjoying your vlogs as usual.
That's a wide net 😃
Keith Sandercock how do keep your focus dialed in at the HFD. I feel as though on manual with time / moving around it is easily changed
@@jhemming Glad you asked. I put a small strip of black gaffer tape on the underside of the lens that temporarily 'locks' the aperture ring and focus ring together. If the rings get moved unintentionally, a quick look at the aperture setting (in my case f8) will tell you if it needs to be reset.
This is very interesting, since on my X-T20 the fastest minimum shutter speed is annoyingly just 1/500 (I looked at the docs for the X-T30 and it said it was also capped at 1/500). Is 1/1000 the fastest minimum shutter speed available on your X100f, or are there faster values available? I know the X100 line have fancy leaf shutters, but I don't see how this would have any bearing on minimum shutter speeds as slow as 1/500...
Thanks a lot. I will use these settings because they make sense,I got a Nikon I been using it for 11 years now and I got the Fuji also few years ago, hell the settings are terrible,I feel like a newbie to photography when I’m trying to find out the right exposure 😅
I am happy to learn that a pro like you has had the camera shake experience at the 1/30 second shutter speed that usually is OK for a 35 mm focal length. Yes, I can avoid shake at 1/30 if I remember to hold the camera properly with my left hand under the body (as I do under the lens naturally with my Canon 80D), but like you I am often taking a quick shot and holding the X100F with my left hand on the side of the camera rather than under it. So I have also set the minimum shutter speed at 1/60 and ISO at 6400 max for non-moving scenes, 1/125 and ISO 12,800 for possible movement scenes, and 1/500 and ISO 12,800 for stopping motion.
Booray, what I particularly like about your videos is the way you separate the pro approach to photography from that of the capture the moment photographer. Keep it up.
I work my X100f very similar. I often set my ISO with my mark1 eyeball. Like you bright outside I’m on 100. I use the half shutter and look in the EVF and use the camera meter like a light meter. Looking at exposure and adjusting from there to the situation I’m shooting in... I use the cameras light meter like a light meter, and manually adjust from there until I get an exposure setting I think is spot on for the subject. I don’t shoot weddings where I might get distracted from changing light conditions but if you are using an EVF in a mirrorless camera its all right there every shot.... just look....
Very good tips. Your philosophy is totally make sense! Getting some grainy photos are better than nothing. It's enlighten me.
Because of you and the discovery of this channel I now own a x100f!! I'll give these settings a try. Thanks and keep 'em coming!!
That's fantastic! 😁😁
Boo "Hooray" - you nailed it; why not set this up for work & pleasure. The camera today are so good! Suggestion: on my x100f; I have the 3 Auto ISO's set for - 1) Daytime, 2) Golden Hour, and 3) Night. I have similarly set up my Sony for jobs; but with Sony you can set the SS either at the standard reciprocal rule or 2x rule (which I use to ensure sharpness). In any case, by using your camera this way you can focus on what's really important.
That's a cool feature on the Sony!
@@BoorayPerry Fuji has that feature also (my X-T4 at least, I don't have the x100v), when you set min. shutter speed to auto in the AUTO ISO settings menu. It will then choose the inverse of your focal length.
Great channel Booray! I bought a X100F recently partly bc of your channel. Maybe I’m doing something wrong but I’ve found that the shutter speed can drop below the set minimum in auto iso especially when in low light conditions. I’ve read on forums that Fuji cameras will overwrote the shutter speed if it can’t push the ISO above the set limit to preserve the exposure. Not sure if that’s something that you’d been experiencing either.
YES. When the camera is at the limit you've set for both ISO and SS, it will lower SS below the limit. This is why i have my ISO limit set high. :) Thanks for watching!
Perfect explanation Booray keep up the good work my friend📸
Old habits are hard to break. I have already setup my Canon body with shutter speed and ISO limits a long while back. It's completely ready for me to use aperture priority same as what you described. Yet, what do I do... I shoot in manual mode and am still constantly adjusting everything as lighting changes dictate. I really should use the other modes when appropriate and save myself extra steps and sometimes missed shots.
Youre probably one of the few useful ones out there : )
Ha! Thanks!
Nice video as usual. What custom auto focus setting do you recommend for portraits and weddings? Thanks
I always use S for focus. I just don't trust C :)
@@BoorayPerry Me too, but I meant the AF-C custom settings: menu, AF MF. There are 6 AF-C custom settings. Thanks
@@shy-guy5544 Oh, okay. I never use it so I know nothing about them.
@@BoorayPerry OK. Thanks
Greetings from South Africa Great Video Thanx Bud Take Care
Thanks😁📷
Here's what I realized about auto ISO and it's why I use it: Imagine it's still daylight, a wedding has just finished, and some people are still inside the church, some are milling around under the portico, some are in the sunlight. You sure don't want to be constantly fiddling with the auto ISO knob as you keep switching from brighter and darker scenes.
But that's not my ultimate point: when the camera sees that ISO needs to be bumped up, it bumps it. As soon as it sees it doesn't need such a high ISO, it lowers it. In effect, what that means is, auto ISO is constantly guaranteeing that you are always shooting at minimal ISO, ie, your camera is making sure your images are as noise free as possible. If you do it any other way, you'll inevitably end up with some shots that have more noise than they needed to have - because we're human, and we make mistakes.
Yes. Thank you Mr. Sparkleface.
Hi Booray... PLease update the AUto Iso setting you are using now... any difference from the above video ? It gives me more freedom taking the moment. Thank you so much !
No changes! :)
@@BoorayPerry thanks. I really appreciate your channel, quick response and simply explanation. You rockkkkk
@@minhkhuong6132 Thank Youuuu :)
When using auto iso settings, do you know what priorities the camera makes in regarding the iso, and shutterspeed. Will it sit in the highest limit iso in favor of higher shutter for example? Thanks in advance.
Very interesting! I have this camera too. Since it’s new to me I have pretty much the same setting. ISO and shutter on automatic. And autofocus as well. Sometimes I use aperture on auto too, but then I frequently use the under/over exposure knob-thing.
I like shooting to get grain btw :-)
It takes a lot less force to shake a light thing than a heavy thing. So it’s really harder to lock this light camera than heavy ones. I used a M6 before. As small but heavier. And the Fuji is much more sensitive than the m6.
Glad to know it's not just me!
I prefer to work with both shutter speed and aperture in manual mode and ISO auto.
This allows you to have a little more manual control of the camera while still taking advantage of the ISO auto mode. You can even use exposure compensation which, in this configuration, will adjust ISO only. Low ISO limit set at 200, high limit 12800.
That's a good plan. :)
Thanks for the video. My ISO are the same as yours, the only thing different is the Shutter Speeds. Mine are a little higher than yours, because I was worried about camera shake. Auto 1 = 1/125, Auto 2 = 1/250 & Auto 3 = 1/500. Do you see anything wrong with my settings? Thanks, Bob
everyone's settings are special to them. They can't be wrong. :)
Got my x100f for a week now and beside the user manual, your videos guides me a lot..thanks a bunch. One question did you find that this camera gets pretty warm after like 5 to 10 minutes of shooting?
Hmmm.. this is one of those things... I can't say I do but yet there is this nagging thing that maybe it does?
Good advice. Thanks for the video!
very refreshing. i love this approach to make maximum 12800. thanks
Thanks for watching!
I wrote you a year ago telling you that we are totally in sync re this subject. However, on Thanksgiving I used the X100f with the Godox TT350 flash but instead of setting the aperture, I left it on A. The result was everything being shot at f/2 and higher ISO's than I wanted, as high as 12800, even though the flash fired on TTL. What did I do wrong?
If you leave it up to the camera, it will try to get the correct exposure using everything but the flash FIRST. That's why you need to set your aperture, iso and SS manually. This forces the flash to work within YOUR parameters. 👍
@@BoorayPerry That is what I found when I changed the setting to a selected aperture and shutter speed. Live and learn.
What i did when using autoISO with flash and aperture priority, is use the exposure compensation dial to underexpose a bit to get a lower ISO. Though I use flash in manual mostly dilaed between 1/32-1/16 power.
Great explanation. Thank you very much for sharing this :)
I know nothing about photography really and I'm watching all the videos about ISO settings. I changed my auto ISO to your set up but I dont know when to use them. Btw, my ISO settings only go up to 6400 on my t-x200, is that a "problem"?
It's not a problem at all. In fact you probably don't want to use 6400 as it's probably going to be too noisy.
I use auto ISO anytime I'm not using flash.
Do you use manual focus or auto focus? Let's say for street photography?
A completely depends on the situation. If I am sitting in one place waiting for something to happen I will often use manual. If I am moving I use auto focus. The focus peaking in manual mode is really great
Very useful video, thanks! I already use auto iso on my X-T20 but like you still juggling with the settings. Very interested to try these out. One question, which auto iso setting do you recommend for low light situations with a bit of movement, auto2?
It's kind of something you have to work out for each camera. With a 35mm lens and a good hold on the camera you should be able to freeze most walking at, say 1/60? But put a longer lens on or shoot one handed and it's a different story. The traditional way to set shutter speed is to have it at least equal to the focal length of the lens. Back in the day, most people were shooting 35mm or 50mm so 1/60 became the default speed that most of us lived with.
@@BoorayPerry I have a 23mm and 56, so the 1/60 will be for the first and the other for the 56 I guess, will try and find out. Thanks for the help!
Is using your x100f as your personal family travel camera because of the beautiful traditional controls, the small size and transportability, or the high IQ this leaf shutter camera delivers. I think it has a look that is very pleasing and distinct, much like Leica cameras (Leica Look) descriptions. Personally I think it is the leaf shutter combined with the Xtrans sensor, it’s just different than anything else and the images reflect that...even other Fugi X cameras images don’t look like X100f images. Why does a pro wedding photographer carry an X100f for his personal photography?
I wanted to force myself to shoot the way my predecessors did... 😁
Hello Booray, i use auto iso but I find out, that if I seit the dynamic range from 100 to 200 than the iso stays above 320. What do you recommend regarding the dynamic range?
100, 200 or even 400? Thanks a lot. Marco from Germany
This is a great question. I've always believed that the lowest ISO is the best ISO but then I started to see makers like Fuji recommend higher ISO's for dynamic range. It makes sense when you think about it, ISO is basically just gain and if you want to have the most room to work with you don't want it bottomed out. So, to answer your question I set my DR at 200.
I have set up my X100F as you have suggested, but regardless of what I set my lowest shutter speed to (my lowest was 1/125th) the camera will go below that speed to get the shot. I must have something set up wrong and if anyone has had this happen or knows what I am doing wrong, I would appreciate your help.
It will still go below your set shutter speed limit if it has to. Are you saying that it goes below your shutter speed value BEFORE it reaches the top ISO value?
@@BoorayPerryyes, I’m having this problem too. It will go below the min shutter speed before reaching the top iso
That's odd... I'm gonna have to try and reproduce that
@@crywolfTO
Sold all my Nikon gear years ago when the X100s first came out. Picked up an X100f late last year, but I've also kept my X100s. It's still a good camera. Your videos are a great help as I have unfortunately been unable to get out full-time with my cameras and really learn their settings. Working (Flying Helicopters) in Abu Dhabi has always gotten in the way of....... more important things, like photography. Look forward to more of your posts. Keep up the good work........
Valuable info BP
I use AUTO ISO on my X100T as well. Another great video, clear and too the point. Thank you 👍
I am unable to alter the ISO from auto mode. what shall i do?
This is the usual practice with seasoned photographers.
By the way, this aspect in this video has not incorporated the relationship with DR setting. A missing link??
Hmmm perhaps a new video is called for? :)
@@BoorayPerry ....
No. It's part of setting.
Only when the DR is set to 100% iso will change as expected. Else, in high dynamic range scene, it will change differently, even within the defined settings.
@@sundarAKintelart Define "change differently." If I set DR to 400 and change the aperture, the ISO setting still changes to adapt. The only difference is the starting ISO takes into account the "DR 400" setting.
@@BoorayPerry ....
When DR is set to 400%, the base or preferred ISO is set to say 200, and at a given minimum shutter speed, if the scene is a high dynamic one, like a bright sky and mid to deep sub tones in the middle and lower side, the iso (though can be held at the given shutter speed) will bias towards the set DR of 400 and the iso will shift to 640 or 800 and the aperture will set accordingly to accomplish the required exposure. Thanks.
@@sundarAKintelart That seems to me to be how it should work if you are letting the camera pick your aperture and you have told the camera you want 400% DR. Am I missing something?
Good job.....
Auto ISO is the only way to go.
you talk too much--use SAMPLESAS YOU TALK! THIS MAKES A GREATER IMPACT OF THE LESSON
Sometimes I do include images when I feel they are needed but when discussing menu settings it's really more about the menu. Check out ruclips.net/video/IH7DMME0Fok/видео.html for images. :)