The bike turning on has nothing to do with the PAS sensor in general. But there is one particular failure mode where if the DC power of the PAS sensor failes in a way that draws a high current it can damage the 12V regulator of the Cycle Analyst which could result in the appearance of a bike not turning one.
Not with our systems no. We have all the PAS and torque signals going directly to the CA display for much more versatility in the PAS control behavior. The native PAS functionality built into most ebike motor controllers is fairly blah.
As long as the crank spindle fits inside the opening of the sensor and you have a sufficient clearance gap between the BB shell and the crank arm, it should work fine.
I can't believe there's no other way of putting a cadence sensor on a bike!, it most be something easier to install in the world out there?, this is way to complicated.
There are sensors that are easier to install, but often there is a tradeoff with robustness and usually not at this high of a pole count for instant responsiveness. This style with a split ring magnet sensor is quite common and requires no tools or crank removal: ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/torque-sensors/pas-12p.html
@@GrinTechnologies Good. In EU we can only have a pedal assisted ebikes, no throttle is allowed and I really need something close to no tool mounting, and for a city bike the split ring should be robust enough. Thanks
@@GrinTechnologies I'm having issues with the pedal assist since I changed the controller, no matter how many magnets 5,8 or 12 I set in the display (the pas sensor being a 24 poles)
As much as I enjoy most of your videos: 1) Using a wider BB usually means getting a worse Q-factor. Depending on your bike, your body and possible health issues, this is never a good idea. (Reference: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_factor_(bicycles)) 2) Milling of a few millimeter from your cranks ? Excuse me ? How about the simplest solution: Using both a PAS sensor and magnet disc that fit your bike ? Just saying......
For sure, the majority of bikes with square taper cranks have sufficient room for this sensor to fit no problem. We were just pointing out the options you have if it doesn't, and how to check in advance it would, and we deliberately chose a bike that had too small of a gap for the video to illustrate that. When people can't fit a spindle mounted PAS sensor we offer magnet ring option that attaches to the chainring. Those work with any BB spindle type and doesn't require crank clearance, but they are more finicky to use. We have an install video for those in the works too. This mini PAS sensor is much more compact and ideal if you can swing it though.
@@GrinTechnologies The simplest approach to deal with such a sort of crankset is simply to use a standard magnet ring which usually goes directly to the BB axle and simply drill out a hole into the ring with a sequential head drill (if this is a correct translation). I do not remember the exact diameter of the part of the crank you milled away but something like 28 mm. Then simply glue the magnet ring to the crank using epoxy or some PU glue like Sikaflex. I did two bikes for friend with this approach and they still ride this setup for a few years now.
Why would you show a DIY/tutorial video and not provide at least a link to the product you’re using (24-pole PAS) for viewers wanting to actually DIY? Seems counterproductive. /Bklyn👑
Hey good point! Mostly it's because we assumed people would find the video link from our product page rather than going the other way around, but we've just added it to the video description too. Thanks for the feedback.
Good stuff man literally the only video using that PAS
You guys always come up with the best products
Good Job !!!
I'd rather do it the simple way as Rob suggested! I use a belt sander on soft aluminum
I don't run out and buy new crankset!
these won't fit on Shimano bbs. You're gonna have to get a Neco. You should mention it in this video and on the website.
Came here looking for this, thanks.
Hi Grin, had this kit for 5 years, been working like a charm. question, it's now misbehaving at times, how can I clean it?
Cheers
Usually it's not a cleaning issue but a mechanical alignment issue with the PAS sensor being too tight on the BB spindle and deforming internally.
If that part goes bad would the bike not turn on
The bike turning on has nothing to do with the PAS sensor in general. But there is one particular failure mode where if the DC power of the PAS sensor failes in a way that draws a high current it can damage the 12V regulator of the Cycle Analyst which could result in the appearance of a bike not turning one.
You said to plug it into the cycle analyst. Did you mean the ebike controller ? Don't these pas sensors plug into the controller ?
Not with our systems no. We have all the PAS and torque signals going directly to the CA display for much more versatility in the PAS control behavior. The native PAS functionality built into most ebike motor controllers is fairly blah.
Each time you say bottom bracket I think you mean BB spindle or axle?
Yes you are correct, we're in the bad habit of referring to the whole crank spindle assembly as a bottom bracket here.
Is the King-Meter PAS still available?
Yup ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/torque-sensors/pas-24p.html
Does it work if there is a ring nut on crank ?
As long as the crank spindle fits inside the opening of the sensor and you have a sufficient clearance gap between the BB shell and the crank arm, it should work fine.
@@GrinTechnologies Cheers.
There is a reason for the thick aluminum pedal, cut it off make it no functional
after a while.
🏳️🌈 💯 %
Hello. Can this be made working for ISIS BB ? (By glueing?)
No, the OD of an ISIS spindle is too large, there won't be any plastic left if you drill it out to that diameter unfortunately
I can't believe there's no other way of putting a cadence sensor on a bike!, it most be something easier to install in the world out there?, this is way to complicated.
There are sensors that are easier to install, but often there is a tradeoff with robustness and usually not at this high of a pole count for instant responsiveness. This style with a split ring magnet sensor is quite common and requires no tools or crank removal:
ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/torque-sensors/pas-12p.html
@@GrinTechnologies Good. In EU we can only have a pedal assisted ebikes, no throttle is allowed and I really need something close to no tool mounting, and for a city bike the split ring should be robust enough. Thanks
@@GrinTechnologies I'm having issues with the pedal assist since I changed the controller, no matter how many magnets 5,8 or 12 I set in the display (the pas sensor being a 24 poles)
looks at symbols... looks at bottom bracket... everythings backwards, so it must go on the other side... d'oh!
They can actually be installed just fine on either side of the cranks.
As much as I enjoy most of your videos:
1) Using a wider BB usually means getting a worse Q-factor. Depending on your bike, your body and possible health issues, this is never a good idea. (Reference: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_factor_(bicycles))
2) Milling of a few millimeter from your cranks ? Excuse me ?
How about the simplest solution: Using both a PAS sensor and magnet disc that fit your bike ? Just saying......
For sure, the majority of bikes with square taper cranks have sufficient room for this sensor to fit no problem. We were just pointing out the options you have if it doesn't, and how to check in advance it would, and we deliberately chose a bike that had too small of a gap for the video to illustrate that.
When people can't fit a spindle mounted PAS sensor we offer magnet ring option that attaches to the chainring. Those work with any BB spindle type and doesn't require crank clearance, but they are more finicky to use. We have an install video for those in the works too. This mini PAS sensor is much more compact and ideal if you can swing it though.
@@GrinTechnologies The simplest approach to deal with such a sort of crankset is simply to use a standard magnet ring which usually goes directly to the BB axle and simply drill out a hole into the ring with a sequential head drill (if this is a correct translation). I do not remember the exact diameter of the part of the crank you milled away but something like 28 mm. Then simply glue the magnet ring to the crank using epoxy or some PU glue like Sikaflex. I did two bikes for friend with this approach and they still ride this setup for a few years now.
Why would you show a DIY/tutorial video and not provide at least a link to the product you’re using (24-pole PAS) for viewers wanting to actually DIY? Seems counterproductive.
/Bklyn👑
Hey good point! Mostly it's because we assumed people would find the video link from our product page rather than going the other way around, but we've just added it to the video description too. Thanks for the feedback.