thanks Jake, I wasn't sure what people would think of this video as it does only suit a very particular interest and it's quite extensive. However so people have have liked it which is good. I don't personally need the attention but I do like do show people something that they hopefully find interesting.
very tight tolerance! It has about 0.02mm give max.I am using slim bearings so their quite unforgiving. I have a single 6001 (12-28-8) bearing on one side and two 6901 (12-24-6) bearings for the drive side. I by memory cut a recess about 27.97 to 27.98 for the larger bearing. I use an inside micrometer to get it right and a slide hammer to remove the bearings when doing a test fit. They should be a light test fit, as in being able to knock them in with the light tapping of a mini soft hammer.
+Sam Quad Sorry to dig up an old post, but i'm wondering what you done with the spoke holes too. I've been searching the web on making bicycle wheel hubs. I wouldn't mind giving it a go in the future (to actually make use of my lathe!). I've been looking at hubs today and i've been trying to work out if there is any rule for the offset of the spoke holes from one side to the other. i.e. a couple of degrees, or if it just doesn't matter. Top work. As for the people moaning about the cloth, yeah..pretty silly thing to do. I've done it, but never wrapped it round my hand like that haha!
+Alastair Gillespie I used a rotating table with a chuck mounted to it to hold the hub before I machined the center part out. I explain in more detail in the comments further down. Let me know if that helps
Thanks for the update. Another possibility would be to clamp a V block to the central part and then use an indicator to get the block's flat face parallel to the x or y axis.
I made it myself, wasn't really easy to made it. I use 2005 t3 aluminum bars. using the press and a two part mold that i made i upset the diameter of both ends. The mold broke when i try to release the first piece. I already start a new mold with better steel and i hope it last long. It's really hard to clamp the preform in a 3 jaw chuck. i had to made a inner collet.
I use it as a lubricant, it wouldn't get very hot for this operation. I avoided almost all lubricant for this video as I did not want any to land on my camera. However during a parting operation it avoids the material clogging up on the tip which makes a real mess and can potentially cause damage.
What type of bearing would be superior to use? I would like to hear your input on this subject. For countersinking the other side of the spoke holes they can be done with a drill bit on an angle or a drill bit that has been cut shorter to fit between the flanges, both by turning by hand.
Is it possible to start with 7075 t6 and add a titanium flange ring with custom spoke attachments similar to onyx's hooked flange vesper hub, along with the conical splined freehub style similar to tactic racing's 200g hub set?
are the spoke holes on both flanges inline or is there an offset? i made my own hub the other day and made the spoke holes on both flanges inline and wasnt too sure if it was right?
Now this was quite some time ago so my memory isn't great but I think I can make a fairly accurate assumption on either of two ways I did it which I shall explain. Right, starting off it's 36 hole hub and there 360 degrees in a circle. So it's 10 degrees per spoke hole for both sides or every 20 degrees for one face / side at once. Holding the drill bit from the very tip I could of lowered it as much as possible off the side of the hub to reach near the lower flange from the outside. With the table at 10 degrees I would clamp the hub to where the drill bit lines up to a spoke hole in the bottom flange by eye. Then once done up I would lift the drill back up, grab it properly, move it to the right coordinates and then move the table from 10 degrees back to zero. So by lining up to a hole in the bottom and having the table at 10 degrees it will line the top up at 0, 20, 40, 60 degrees and so on. The other way I could of done it is by holding the hub in a V-block before starting and making a very subtle mark across the outside of both flanges through the mid point using a height gauge. One side has a spoke hole lining up to this mark but the other side is 10 degrees out / in-between holes.I hope that makes sense. In reality it doesn't have to be overly accurate as the spokes automatically compensate during tensioning.
Hey Sam, Great video! I've been wanting to make a hub for an old motorcycle wheel I have. Do you have a profile for that first center cutting tool you made that has the big upward facing lip on it? New hobby machinist just trying to get by. Thanks!
Thanks Chase. I have come a long way since this old video and I if I was to do this job again today would not use a cutter like that. Instead I would likely use a V type cutter along with a tip made for aluminium use. For example a VCGX 160408 / 332. For Ferrous type cutting it would be swapped for a VNMG 432 tip instead. As an example of a holder put this number "282608287597" into the Ebay search box and "351252288981" for a tip that would rip into aluminum with ease. Hope that helps.
@@nooneisrightallthetime-zv7hs It's been a long time since I had a comment on this long dead channel. I still have an interest but reality is depressing- I had to give all that up due to ongoing deterioration of my health. It's ironic as I have more resources and knowledge than ever but I don't readily get to use it. I will on the off occasion be able to do something, if things work out I might even be able to spend an hour this coming day doing some work on a small but long term project I have here.
@@Samqdf sorry to hear about the health issues. I hope you find something you can do that brings you similar fulfilment. I always wanted to know how to use this equipment but never had the opportunity. Maybe an old video to you but still educational to myself and others so thanks again anyway🙂
+Moshiur Misha Hi, I would of had one on graph paper but that was years ago, besides this hub wouldn't suit any other bike so it would likely be useless for you.
+yetijoeyetijoe No it wouldn't. Some of the outside cuts could be done if you are super patient I guess but you would never be able to do the plunge cuts in the middle
Can be done, at least on my Optimum 2004 (500W motor). You cut a 45 degree cone in towards the chuck, then use a RH (LH? the opposite of regular) to cut away from the chuck. It's kind of a pain, and you really need to have a tail-stock center to prevent the piece getting pulled out of the chuck. You might find you need to do the ID with stepped drill sizes and a boring bar, and the radius cutters are something of a pain to use. Most other mini lathes are 250W so your mileage may vary.
But hey, don't buy a mini lathe because it's cheap. The difference between a $2k and a $5k lathe is only 30% when you're $5k into tooling. And trust me, you will very quickly be $5k into tooling. I figured this out late, but it wasn't price but size and available space that forced me to get a smaller lathe than I would like. It's better to just spend the money up front, if you can find the space, as it avoids all the hassle of having to sell up and upgrade (and then buy more replacement tooling to fit the new machine), as I will have to do when I get some more space.
How did you obtain the measurements for the hub you wanted to make/need? Did you start with a 3D scan/measurement? Are hub drawings available online somewhere?
+RocketRich No, I designed it from what I thought was best. I knew what the thread diameter of the freewheel was and I wanted the largest diameter axle I could. Therefore I worked backwards from there using a constant wall thickness through the whole thing. After that I just designed it out with a 2:1 scale on graph paper. This was before I learnt CAD.
Awesome hub. Really awesome. I like the new video. I don't know if you remeber, but i was who made a front hub and publish it on instructables . com, now i'm making new hubs (better than my first ones) with a preform made of forged aluminum. that saves me ALOT of aluminum and work.
my friend lost fingers putting gloves on using a lathe. its a really irresponsible thing to show on a youtube video. At least you told people its not a good idea.
thanks Alex, I would like to see your results when you're done- good or bad.
Great video, just about to start my hub project for the trials bike so a nice bit iof inspiration!
thanks Jake, I wasn't sure what people would think of this video as it does only suit a very particular interest and it's quite extensive. However so people have have liked it which is good. I don't personally need the attention but I do like do show people something that they hopefully find interesting.
very tight tolerance! It has about 0.02mm give max.I am using slim bearings so their quite unforgiving. I have a single 6001 (12-28-8) bearing on one side and two 6901 (12-24-6) bearings for the drive side. I by memory cut a recess about 27.97 to 27.98 for the larger bearing. I use an inside micrometer to get it right and a slide hammer to remove the bearings when doing a test fit. They should be a light test fit, as in being able to knock them in with the light tapping of a mini soft hammer.
+Sam Quad Sorry to dig up an old post, but i'm wondering what you done with the spoke holes too.
I've been searching the web on making bicycle wheel hubs. I wouldn't mind giving it a go in the future (to actually make use of my lathe!). I've been looking at hubs today and i've been trying to work out if there is any rule for the offset of the spoke holes from one side to the other. i.e. a couple of degrees, or if it just doesn't matter.
Top work. As for the people moaning about the cloth, yeah..pretty silly thing to do. I've done it, but never wrapped it round my hand like that haha!
+Alastair Gillespie I used a rotating table with a chuck mounted to it to hold the hub before I machined the center part out. I explain in more detail in the comments further down. Let me know if that helps
Great video man. Keep it up!
Thanks for the update. Another possibility would be to clamp a V block to the central part and then use an indicator to get the block's flat face parallel to the x or y axis.
I made it myself, wasn't really easy to made it. I use 2005 t3 aluminum bars. using the press and a two part mold that i made i upset the diameter of both ends. The mold broke when i try to release the first piece.
I already start a new mold with better steel and i hope it last long.
It's really hard to clamp the preform in a 3 jaw chuck. i had to made a inner collet.
Many thanks for this! The only downside is that I have to arrange a complete workshop...
I do remember, where do you source the preform?
I use it as a lubricant, it wouldn't get very hot for this operation. I avoided almost all lubricant for this video as I did not want any to land on my camera. However during a parting operation it avoids the material clogging up on the tip which makes a real mess and can potentially cause damage.
VERY good video. Thanks a ton! Did everything lace up ok?
Very cool. Whats with the slip fit bearings? Im trying to figure out how to countersink the back side of the spoke holes
What type of bearing would be superior to use? I would like to hear your input on this subject. For countersinking the other side of the spoke holes they can be done with a drill bit on an angle or a drill bit that has been cut shorter to fit between the flanges, both by turning by hand.
what i meant is you should have about a .0005" press fit on that bearing
I'm sure there is some sort of backside countersink tool that does the spoke holes
Is it possible to start with 7075 t6 and add a titanium flange ring with custom spoke attachments similar to onyx's hooked flange vesper hub, along with the conical splined freehub style similar to tactic racing's 200g hub set?
Hi, can you give me more details on your boring bar tip you used for boring the aluminum. Do you remerber the stock number? Thanks
are the spoke holes on both flanges inline or is there an offset? i made my own hub the other day and made the spoke holes on both flanges inline and wasnt too sure if it was right?
I was hoping to see how you aligned the second set of spoke holes with the first set...
Now this was quite some time ago so my memory isn't great but I think I can make a fairly accurate assumption on either of two ways I did it which I shall explain. Right, starting off it's 36 hole hub and there 360 degrees in a circle. So it's 10 degrees per spoke hole for both sides or every 20 degrees for one face / side at once. Holding the drill bit from the very tip I could of lowered it as much as possible off the side of the hub to reach near the lower flange from the outside. With the table at 10 degrees I would clamp the hub to where the drill bit lines up to a spoke hole in the bottom flange by eye. Then once done up I would lift the drill back up, grab it properly, move it to the right coordinates and then move the table from 10 degrees back to zero. So by lining up to a hole in the bottom and having the table at 10 degrees it will line the top up at 0, 20, 40, 60 degrees and so on. The other way I could of done it is by holding the hub in a V-block before starting and making a very subtle mark across the outside of both flanges through the mid point using a height gauge. One side has a spoke hole lining up to this mark but the other side is 10 degrees out / in-between holes.I hope that makes sense. In reality it doesn't have to be overly accurate as the spokes automatically compensate during tensioning.
which sizes where you after? It's easy to measure a hub up for what you need. Most of the sizes on this are custom and can't be used on other bikes.
Hey Sam,
Great video! I've been wanting to make a hub for an old motorcycle wheel I have. Do you have a profile for that first center cutting tool you made that has the big upward facing lip on it? New hobby machinist just trying to get by. Thanks!
Thanks Chase. I have come a long way since this old video and I if I was to do this job again today would not use a cutter like that. Instead I would likely use a V type cutter along with a tip made for aluminium use. For example a VCGX 160408 / 332. For Ferrous type cutting it would be swapped for a VNMG 432 tip instead. As an example of a holder put this number "282608287597" into the Ebay search box and "351252288981" for a tip that would rip into aluminum with ease. Hope that helps.
Sounds great. Thanks Sam! I made an HSS with a pretty similar profile to the vcgx you listed. Seems to make all of the difference.
Good to hear, well done
thanks, this video seem to be the only one of it's type on youtube. It laced up well, I just used a basic 2 cross pattern.
You still doing this stuff ?
@@nooneisrightallthetime-zv7hs It's been a long time since I had a comment on this long dead channel. I still have an interest but reality is depressing- I had to give all that up due to ongoing deterioration of my health. It's ironic as I have more resources and knowledge than ever but I don't readily get to use it. I will on the off occasion be able to do something, if things work out I might even be able to spend an hour this coming day doing some work on a small but long term project I have here.
@@Samqdf sorry to hear about the health issues. I hope you find something you can do that brings you similar fulfilment. I always wanted to know how to use this equipment but never had the opportunity. Maybe an old video to you but still educational to myself and others so thanks again anyway🙂
thanks. can you provide mechanical drawing. please
+Moshiur Misha Hi, I would of had one on graph paper but that was years ago, besides this hub wouldn't suit any other bike so it would likely be useless for you.
thanks.
basically i want to have one so that i can my own based on an existing drawing
No I can't because I doubt I would even have a copy of it still let alone know where it is.
are these little guys being produce for the public. can you message me with details
Would a mini lathe have enough hp to handle your project in this video?
+yetijoeyetijoe No it wouldn't. Some of the outside cuts could be done if you are super patient I guess but you would never be able to do the plunge cuts in the middle
Can be done, at least on my Optimum 2004 (500W motor). You cut a 45 degree cone in towards the chuck, then use a RH (LH? the opposite of regular) to cut away from the chuck. It's kind of a pain, and you really need to have a tail-stock center to prevent the piece getting pulled out of the chuck. You might find you need to do the ID with stepped drill sizes and a boring bar, and the radius cutters are something of a pain to use. Most other mini lathes are 250W so your mileage may vary.
But hey, don't buy a mini lathe because it's cheap. The difference between a $2k and a $5k lathe is only 30% when you're $5k into tooling. And trust me, you will very quickly be $5k into tooling. I figured this out late, but it wasn't price but size and available space that forced me to get a smaller lathe than I would like. It's better to just spend the money up front, if you can find the space, as it avoids all the hassle of having to sell up and upgrade (and then buy more replacement tooling to fit the new machine), as I will have to do when I get some more space.
and a lot of time! many hours went into this
Good work dude, like your video
How did you obtain the measurements for the hub you wanted to make/need? Did you start with a 3D scan/measurement? Are hub drawings available online somewhere?
+RocketRich No, I designed it from what I thought was best. I knew what the thread diameter of the freewheel was and I wanted the largest diameter axle I could. Therefore I worked backwards from there using a constant wall thickness through the whole thing. After that I just designed it out with a 2:1 scale on graph paper. This was before I learnt CAD.
Great job mate :) i love using lathes :)
can you give me the specs of the hub?? the sizes
no not made for the public, just my own bike. There are somewhat similar hubs available though in stores.
Very nicely done
+kerrywil1 thanks, perhaps some time I will make another one of these seeing it's been many years since I filmed this video and a lot has changed.
Awesome hub. Really awesome. I like the new video. I don't know if you remeber, but i was who made a front hub and publish it on instructables . com, now i'm making new hubs (better than my first ones) with a preform made of forged aluminum. that saves me ALOT of aluminum and work.
they are indeed offset to be oppersite in their alignment. However I can't see this as being is being critical
Are you interested in making a set of hubs for me?
+Chris Howard No sorry, I don't have enough time to do so.
sure I would do it but there is like 12 hours in a hub. So you would be looking at about 400 dollars without an axle.
impresinve
store bought is nice these too me seem much nicer. if your interested in machining
a rear hub message me.
need an email address for you id like a front and a rear
Using a rag to polish!!! Are you wanting to lose your hand?
+filfan2001 I agree it's a bad thing to do, I have added a note that shows up on the screen as a warning.
Hi I can do one better, I can give tell you the exact type you need for your machine. I will send you a message.
my friend lost fingers putting gloves on using a lathe. its a really irresponsible thing to show on a youtube video. At least you told people its not a good idea.
Yes I agree, I was younger and much less experienced then
Ace! =)
I will send you a private message
To much talk
👈