one small tip I learned years ago...for those sharp ends on the zip ties that are left over after you've clipped the ends, take a nail clipper and just nip that sharp bit right off. This will save the skin on your hands.
Field Days will never be the same for you. I use the Harden Power Systems Commander 7100 with an Icom 7100 that I bought just for that purpose. Field days are more organized. I just attach the antennas and turn it on. I use Ham Radio Deluxe and an SDR Play duo with a tablet as scope and as an extra sensitive receiver that controls the IC 7100 and does contact management etc. Between mobile sessions the "fat 50" ammo can is set up to provide a Faraday cage to protect the whole 7100 package and the 20 amp battery in the Commander.
What I would add is some more batteries to give more capacity when solar is weak. I would also add cb and gmrs radios to give myself some more options in a local disaster. I would also try to add a couple HT chargers that could come out of the box to keep HTs powered. All this would probably take up too much space but your box + these suggestions is exactly what I want to build. Let me know what you think.
Mars mod your radios for GMRS and CB. My hf rig isn't mars modded, but my dual bands all are. As long as you're operating within or reasonably close to specs for the channel you're on, who cares. I mean - unless you just want to have a box loaded down with radios for every service to satisfy some silly bureaucrat, but I suggest a gym membership to go along with the 150u "portable" case you're gonna need.
Had a cooling situation where we finally had one fan at one end (a) and another fan at the other end (b). What made the solution so special was the b fan was turned around! A pull me/push me fan configuration. It might get pretty warm in there if you add a few other things wanting power.
Thanks! Josh, I got my Gator case in yesterday and it does'nt have the strip on top with the knock outs. Did you buy that separately from Gator? I bought mine off of your Amazon Affiliate page.
Josh, that is a super sweet go-box man. Looks really well thought out and built. Good stuff, I might need to get something similar, but scaled down using my IC-705.
First, I am a v-e-r-y strong proponent of totally “suit-cased” portable station, preferably in a well thought out install in a rack-mount case WITH wheels and luggage handle. Mine does double duty as base and deployable field station. Disconnect two transmission lines, one power, ground, and two USB cables, latch the covers in place and it’s ready to go. Bravo Zulu on what you’ve done, Josh! But (and there’s always that, right?), methinks you are in bit of a need of cable management. I routed my cables along the shelf edges and secured in place with those sticky-backed zip tie anchors and zip ties. Best regards / N6MED
Add as much STUFF as you want you got all the space RIGHT? Your BACK and knees will thank YOU later in LIFE! Wheels are great but you got to still lift it in and OUT of a vehicle as well as up and DOWN off the bench or table or storage shelf. But you are now a OFFICIAL member of the "KOOL CLUB"! Awesome stuff! Thank You! I'm going more Modular myself. That way I take only what I need. Looking at POTA now that might be Fun!
In order to be able to use a wide selection af power sources you should use a "wide input" MPPT or maybe 2 with different input ranges. This will enable you to use different solar panel configurations, or in case one of your own panels becomes defective and leave you with insufficient voltage. ( Smaller "islanded" systems typically uses PV voltages up to 200 Volts. Larger PV arrays ( found in mains connected inverters ) can be in the range of 500V to 1000Volts. )
Very well done, Josh. I am a little bit jealous. What I would do with the spare space behind the speakers is definitely installing a raspberry pi running build-a-pi from KM4ACK.
Those road case solutions have come a long way since the only source was some montesano on the east coast you had to know a guy to get anything nice. Sweet work, amigo. Very industrious. 73 de W8IJN
It looks great Josh! I will say that I think LMR-400 is a really good idea to use in this type of use as long as you can keep the bend radius wide like you have. Why have .8Db loss when you can have .2Db loss in your system. It's also a very rugged cable choice and should last alot of miles. I give you a 9 out of 10 only because you don't have a DVD player in it. Good job and keep the back on to hide the lack of cable management 😎
you need to put a temp probe on the middle shelf so you know what the temp is in the case itself. also, you could have used a quad-band like a TTY -9800 vs the 2m-440 and get a Diamond QUAD BAND mobile antenna.
@@HamRadioCrashCourse thanks Josh, I'm 41 yrs as a ham, I got mine in 1980. I have 3 AA degrees with a lot of extra credits two are in Electronic engineering & Computers the last one is in Fine Arts (Photography, Photoshop, Graphic Design, etc, (I have about 375 college credits) you need only about 260 total credits to get a Ph.D. (Approx 65 credits for a AA, + 65 credits for a BA, +70 credits for a Master's, & +60 credits for a Ph.D.). BTW you are only 68 miles north of where my oldest brother lives in Oceanside.
I've had one of those for many years. 10 and 6 are relatively useless. FM only for bands I have all modes on my HF rig. I DO like having a separate dual band from HF rig. The "all bands all modes" thing is somewhat overrated. I want to be able to do local comms over VHF/UHF while using the HF rig for HF work. There IS a narrow use case where 10 and 6 could be useful in a go rig, but that'd be where you have a 10 or 6 meter repeater for localish comms. I find they're a lot more rare than 2m / 70cm. I'd personally see more use for a tri band with 220 than a quad band with 10 / 6. I've got an HT that can do 6m if I really need to. It's low power, but thats what good antennas are for. ic-7300, ic-2730a, vx-6r Pretty much gets you everything you need. Mars mod the HT and mobile in case you need gmrs or something. Mars also opens 6m FM on the vx-6 iirc ...
I am planning on stuffing my Go Box and Solar Kit into a Dewalt ToughSystem 2.0 with a DIY Rack setup then (possibly) using the wheeled base unit it comes with - OR - assembling the stackable boxes to an ALICE Frame if it doesn't end up too heavy! :D Keep up the awesome work. Lots to learn from someone as inspiring as yourself! *edit I have seen a few Milwaukee tools in your arsenal - the Packout System by them is no joke either!
What is the run time on the 9ah battery? What would be the feasibility of using Milwaukee M18 or M12 batteries? Even a small converter for the m18. Could make em quick change out if need be.
Does the Gator case have any external hardware to bolt that rascal down in a vehicle, trailer, motorhome, whatever? I can see it sliding or...hope not...tumbling around in a vehicle while accessing a difficult SOTA vantage point. Maybe a simple tie down or ratchet strap would work.
Really nice setup. I'm acquiring all my parts to start building my go box. Just got a new 8u Gator box and really like the way you designed everything for yours. I particularly like the way you installed a bulkhead that you use to install your USB ports and other meters etc. Who and where is your souce for this strip across the top?
I'm rethinking my 7300 go box. I may do a separate Pelican or Apache box for the battery, charger and solar controller. Then a few powerwerx and or Neutrk Connectors to jack into the 7300 box. Make the 7300 (Pelican 1510) stand alone when a power source is near by, or go with the battery box option on field days.
In thinking about this more the one thing that I would change is not keeping the battery in the box with your high value radio stuff. Fuses are good but there are case when your power system cause damage. I have had the battery leak (impact and/or age) and wires short for some reason. In the winter the lead batteries also have reduced current output. I am just getting into RF, but to me the power system is just like the radio whip, you need to be able to swap it out just as fast to meet your mission which will vary often.
Josh looks great. I'll have the box I am building ready for Huntsville. See you at the park. BTW I have a cabin there rented for Thursday through Sunday.
looks real nice. you may want to add a 120mm 12V fan in go box for when you take it to a hot place. also get a Victron MPPT charge controller and put power poles on it. MC4 as well. got a lot of same power pole stuff . working great for me. nice job on battery switch . I got the same on on a ammo box battery . make some power pole leads 10AWG with fuse and keep them in go box. even one with battery clips . you could RG 400 or RG 393 type coax . but what you have looks fine. just no tight bends. if you find a better dule or tri band rig swap put that 2 meter or add to it. also you may want some kind of amp meter on battery. help you point solar for max out put. also a victron smart battery shunt will be great in that. will show battery level and amps in/out volts and bluetooth to smartphone. they great. take a look at them. I have a ECO-WORTHY 20 Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 in my kit. will fit in yours. it will never be in it's final form unless you stop using it. hope to hear you some time with that. 73's Boston NY
Only just found this despite having subscribed for a while now. Great job! I have an IC-7300 I'd like to power while out in the field in a more compact way than with an Ecoflow. Can that 9ah battery really run everything for a useful amount of time including the 7300?
Hello Josh, nice GO setup. Do You have experience to drive the Icom 7300 with Your Jackery Power Station with full HF output power? Does it work and how long? 73, Ingo from Germany
Just got my gator box in, not the same one but a 6U. looking forward to building it this year Good looking box you have there also. Yeah, I like good cable management :) it's pleasing to see, but if it works and doesn't impede airflow, then I'd just at least label what's what so future you spends less time troubleshooting
Hey Josh, great set up mate. Maybe you could add a manual tuner on the top level for long random wires, wheat silos, metal balconies or long fence wires your 7300 can't tune? ha! That and some batteries running in parallel - killer! Well, it's already killer. Wow I love it Josh. Great stuff mate - love your videos. Cheers! Simon VA7BIX
On the USB passthrough, what is the end that actually connects to the port in the back? If it's already an A, then just use a USB-A to B cable. If it's something else, you might find that cable to a B so you don't have to mess with adapters.
Nice setup how much does it weight covers on and ready to rool had considered doing someting but i have a suith case lithium battery with full sign 400 watt inverter and all kinde of hookups made for solar pannel without putting batteries in the box more weight still planning to build something really like your case
Even though you are running off of batteries. Is there any benefit to running a chassis ground to a small stake that can be pushed into the earth? Or should the negative of the battery be tied to chassis ground?
I prefer the specific use approach as opposed to the everything plus the kitchen sink. Weight is a big issue for me (bad back). I use the gator 3U case with the IC-7300, IT-100 antenna tuner and pactor in one case. Power supplies are separate (flexibility). VHF/UHF go kit is also separate. That way I can (1) take what I need and (2) spread out if more than one person is going to use the radios. Gong to use a 30A battery with a 6A charger for field day. Have been told that combination will supply all the power you need. I field test prior to relying on it. If that fails, will use a 30A switching power supply. Might want to review the "ratpack" videos, #71.
Love it! I just bought my box last night on your live. What speakers are those and are they compatible with any radio? Thanks for the great video!!! 73
Pretty impressive ... I guess my idea of a grab and go is somewhat smaller. Given the distance is so short.. I would have used LMR-230 UF , 3ft @ < 0.2dB at 150MHz
If you use a web strap (or two) with a Fastex you can still have an easily removable battery, but you won't have to cut the lashing system(zip tie) AND the web will be way stronger than the zip tie. I'd also get some self adhesive clips to hold pens/pencils somewhere reachable the front of the case i.e. operator's position. I'd also have some adapters for other battery connectors to anderson power poles so I could use other power sources with relative ease. The obvious one would be some a lead with some alligator clips and one for IEC/kettle cables. You can also get 1RU drawers for keyboards and just plain 1RU drawers for rack mounting. If you think you'll be doing much digital you might want to think about one of those - a real keyboard and mouse can be nice. However I think I'd skip the keyboard and mouse and just get a 1Ru drawer for storage (you can still keep a mouse in there). Given the box sits on it's ends for use on the wheels, if you go down that path you probably want to velco things in e.g. flat storage boxes or maybe clip things. I'd just cover the whole bottom of the drawer with velcro - probably the hook so the loop can be on the items you place in there - that way tools etc with velcro on them would not scratch you up. To make that work I'd put any drawer at the bottom, move the radio shelf up and mount the speakers in the space above the UHF/VHF radio. Depending on the depth of the drawer ( I reckon the plain rack mount drawers Ive seen are about 10" deep) you could also have it open to the rear and place it up top oppostie the 1Ru facia with the SO239s, USB, etc. I'd also be looking at a multipurpose battery charger for 18650s, AAs, AAAs, CR123 functionally equivlant 18xxxs as well. Less convenieit but still useful - leave it half open and it would be a great charging statiomn. Probably be worth having some mains power plugs (110v? not sure what you guys use) for when you do have mains power or a generator so you can power the other stuff you'd. Yeah all that stuff can be separate, but yout go box is for "go"ing so I'd like to keep as much of it together as possible - that makes it easier to go, whether you're deploying or whether your packing up and retiring to your QTH. The less I have to remember to pack/repack the better and the faster I can pack up and go the better. Although you obviously need some space for airflow I just see a lot of space that could be used to store/carry/present kit that in most situations you are going to want - so why not use that space? I guess I'd be looking at a go box more as a field technology hub/power dist system that I'd be builing a mobile field headquarters aroound for emcom - or the zombie apocalypse.
How much does your go box weigh? I (and I am sure everyone else) really likes your Ham Radio Go Box. I recently passed all three exams and got my Amateur Extra license, so I am now purchasing equipment to start learning amateur radio. I love the idea of setting most of my equipment up in a box in my house that I can move around as needed and more importantly, when I want to go to my AR club's field day type event, I just unplug the box and take it and a portable antenna and maybe a battery (if it is not already in the box) to the field day or POTA type event. The one problem is that I want to be able to set everything up by myself, so I want to be able to lift that box to a picnic table. How much does your total box, including your two radios and your battery weigh? Can you lift it to a picnic table yourself or do you need help?
You have room for a DMR radio, preprogram it for all the repeaters and then you will need your portable hotspot too. You can run that puppy off your phone.. If you have an iPad they draw less and last longer than a computer and you can run it off your battery as well... Great start but a few more things would be nice...
Hey, in regards to cooling, cable management has no impact on how well air flows through an enclosed area. Linus Tech Tips did a video on it if you want to go check it out.
Sorry Josh, I finally heard you say a 9Ah battery. I"m making a power supply only, with 2 10Ah Lithium battries in the box. My solar controler is a duo battery charger. Do you think I should install a switch that controlls which battery I'm working from?
Unless I can construct a box here I’m out of amateur radio, I have been a ham since 1977 and now live in an apartment and the noise level is killing me from any type of operation. I have a new 7610 and was going to get the 7300 for backup. However if I can put me together one of these to take out here in North Carolina to operate portable I’m going to sell off all my gear. I just retired and thought I could enjoy the hobby I truly love but looks like all the modern electronic equipment is causing too many problems for a lot of hams.
Have a question for you. Can you use two batteries with the power gate and when one dies(reaches its limits)will it still switch over to the reserve battery?
I have a similar, albeit more complex, setup in an 8U version of the same case. I am running a raspberry pi, display, Kenwood TM-V71A, MobilinkD TNC, Yaesu FT-857D, SignalinkUSB, Midland MXT400 (GMRS), Cobra 29LX, a USB hub, WMR RigRunner, and all my connections on on the back except for the mic. I am running the same power supply and the older Epic PWRgate with all the connectors on the top. I have a few minor convenience issues to work out still but overall I like your almost as much as I do my own.
@@HamRadioCrashCourse the Dual USB cable solution I would suggest is one by Powerwerx : Panel Mount Dual USB 3.0 Male to Female with 6 ft. Extension Cables - SKU: PassDUALUSB
@@HamRadioCrashCourse I got too your page by going directly to Amazon..if I went directly it would time out... I use your page whenever I buy anything cash for you RUclips site
A great project❗️👍 its always super to come up with a project like this but you will ALWAYS find that you could have done ✅ something a little bit better but that for next time❗️👌 KV5P
I keep looking for someone--anyone--who has built a go box in vertical form factor. You know, a 6U box on end, so every radio is in a vertical stack giving the whole thing about 1/2 the footprint. No luck so far.
Josh, I was surprised by the lack of ferrites on your leads. I would have expected more. I trust that you have tested the inter-unit interference? Hopefully interference will be minimal when operating digital modes. Ron - W4ORH
one small tip I learned years ago...for those sharp ends on the zip ties that are left over after you've clipped the ends, take a nail clipper and just nip that sharp bit right off. This will save the skin on your hands.
Putting all of my parts together for a Pelican 1510 Go Box. Great video showing the details of the "guts". Helped me out a ton! Thank you.
Field Days will never be the same for you. I use the Harden Power Systems Commander 7100 with an Icom 7100 that I bought just for that purpose. Field days are more organized. I just attach the antennas and turn it on. I use Ham Radio Deluxe and an SDR Play duo with a tablet as scope and as an extra sensitive receiver that controls the IC 7100 and does contact management etc.
Between mobile sessions the "fat 50" ammo can is set up to provide a Faraday cage to protect the whole 7100 package and the 20 amp battery in the Commander.
What I would add is some more batteries to give more capacity when solar is weak. I would also add cb and gmrs radios to give myself some more options in a local disaster. I would also try to add a couple HT chargers that could come out of the box to keep HTs powered. All this would probably take up too much space but your box + these suggestions is exactly what I want to build. Let me know what you think.
Mars mod your radios for GMRS and CB. My hf rig isn't mars modded, but my dual bands all are. As long as you're operating within or reasonably close to specs for the channel you're on, who cares.
I mean - unless you just want to have a box loaded down with radios for every service to satisfy some silly bureaucrat, but I suggest a gym membership to go along with the 150u "portable" case you're gonna need.
Had a cooling situation where we finally had one fan at one end (a) and another fan at the other end (b). What made the solution so special was the b fan was turned around! A pull me/push me fan configuration. It might get pretty warm in there if you add a few other things wanting power.
Great build.
Thanks! Josh, I got my Gator case in yesterday and it does'nt have the strip on top with the knock outs. Did you buy that separately from Gator? I bought mine off of your Amazon Affiliate page.
I replied to your email. 👍
Thank you!!
Josh, that is a super sweet go-box man. Looks really well thought out and built. Good stuff, I might need to get something similar, but scaled down using my IC-705.
I'd like to see that!
First, I am a v-e-r-y strong proponent of totally “suit-cased” portable station, preferably in a well thought out install in a rack-mount case WITH wheels and luggage handle. Mine does double duty as base and deployable field station. Disconnect two transmission lines, one power, ground, and two USB cables, latch the covers in place and it’s ready to go.
Bravo Zulu on what you’ve done, Josh! But (and there’s always that, right?), methinks you are in bit of a need of cable management. I routed my cables along the shelf edges and secured in place with those sticky-backed zip tie anchors and zip ties.
Best regards / N6MED
Add as much STUFF as you want you got all the space RIGHT? Your BACK and knees will thank YOU later in LIFE! Wheels are great but you got to still lift it in and OUT of a vehicle as well as up and DOWN off the bench or table or storage shelf. But you are now a OFFICIAL member of the "KOOL CLUB"! Awesome stuff! Thank You! I'm going more Modular myself. That way I take only what I need. Looking at POTA now that might be Fun!
Thanks, I already knew that before you made your comment.
Now I will have to go back to your earlier videos on this. I have a 7300 and a Kenwood dual-bander that would be perfect for such a box.
In order to be able to use a wide selection af power sources you should use a "wide input" MPPT or maybe 2 with different input ranges. This will enable you to use different solar panel configurations, or in case one of your own panels becomes defective and leave you with insufficient voltage. ( Smaller "islanded" systems typically uses PV voltages up to 200 Volts. Larger PV arrays ( found in mains connected inverters ) can be in the range of 500V to 1000Volts. )
Any adventure in ham radio is a good adventure. Great idea!
Very well done, Josh. I am a little bit jealous. What I would do with the spare space behind the speakers is definitely installing a raspberry pi running build-a-pi from KM4ACK.
Those road case solutions have come a long way since the only source was some montesano on the east coast you had to know a guy to get anything nice. Sweet work, amigo. Very industrious. 73 de W8IJN
Nice job a lot of thought when and to that project.
It looks great Josh! I will say that I think LMR-400 is a really good idea to use in this type of use as long as you can keep the bend radius wide like you have. Why have .8Db loss when you can have .2Db loss in your system. It's also a very rugged cable choice and should last alot of miles. I give you a 9 out of 10 only because you don't have a DVD player in it. Good job and keep the back on to hide the lack of cable management 😎
What battery did you use, and what battery do you think you should have used?
you need to put a temp probe on the middle shelf so you know what the temp is in the case itself. also, you could have used a quad-band like a TTY -9800 vs the 2m-440 and get a Diamond QUAD BAND mobile antenna.
That is a good idea!!
@@HamRadioCrashCourse thanks Josh, I'm 41 yrs as a ham, I got mine in 1980. I have 3 AA degrees with a lot of extra credits two are in Electronic engineering & Computers the last one is in Fine Arts (Photography, Photoshop, Graphic Design, etc, (I have about 375 college credits) you need only about 260 total credits to get a Ph.D. (Approx 65 credits for a AA, + 65 credits for a BA, +70 credits for a Master's, & +60 credits for a Ph.D.). BTW you are only 68 miles north of where my oldest brother lives in Oceanside.
I've had one of those for many years. 10 and 6 are relatively useless. FM only for bands I have all modes on my HF rig. I DO like having a separate dual band from HF rig. The "all bands all modes" thing is somewhat overrated. I want to be able to do local comms over VHF/UHF while using the HF rig for HF work.
There IS a narrow use case where 10 and 6 could be useful in a go rig, but that'd be where you have a 10 or 6 meter repeater for localish comms. I find they're a lot more rare than 2m / 70cm.
I'd personally see more use for a tri band with 220 than a quad band with 10 / 6.
I've got an HT that can do 6m if I really need to. It's low power, but thats what good antennas are for. ic-7300, ic-2730a, vx-6r
Pretty much gets you everything you need. Mars mod the HT and mobile in case you need gmrs or something. Mars also opens 6m FM on the vx-6 iirc ...
Nice go box project. Good job, Josh.
Thanks!
I am planning on stuffing my Go Box and Solar Kit into a Dewalt ToughSystem 2.0 with a DIY Rack setup then (possibly) using the wheeled base unit it comes with - OR - assembling the stackable boxes to an ALICE Frame if it doesn't end up too heavy! :D Keep up the awesome work. Lots to learn from someone as inspiring as yourself!
*edit I have seen a few Milwaukee tools in your arsenal - the Packout System by them is no joke either!
What is the run time on the 9ah battery? What would be the feasibility of using Milwaukee M18 or M12 batteries? Even a small converter for the m18. Could make em quick change out if need be.
Does the Gator case have any external hardware to bolt that rascal down in a vehicle, trailer, motorhome, whatever? I can see it sliding or...hope not...tumbling around in a vehicle while accessing a difficult SOTA vantage point. Maybe a simple tie down or ratchet strap would work.
Really nice setup. I'm acquiring all my parts to start building my go box. Just got a new 8u Gator box and really like the way you designed everything for yours. I particularly like the way you installed a bulkhead that you use to install your USB ports and other meters etc. Who and where is your souce for this strip across the top?
Year old comment, sorry to bring it back up but it's from Sweetwater, in case someone else has the same question.
I'm rethinking my 7300 go box. I may do a separate Pelican or Apache box for the battery, charger and solar controller. Then a few powerwerx and or Neutrk Connectors to jack into the 7300 box. Make the 7300 (Pelican 1510) stand alone when a power source is near by, or go with the battery box option on field days.
Good stuff!
In thinking about this more the one thing that I would change is not keeping the battery in the box with your high value radio stuff. Fuses are good but there are case when your power system cause damage. I have had the battery leak (impact and/or age) and wires short for some reason. In the winter the lead batteries also have reduced current output. I am just getting into RF, but to me the power system is just like the radio whip, you need to be able to swap it out just as fast to meet your mission which will vary often.
Looking great Josh 👍
Nice Josh you have been refining to very cool! Very cool sir!
Mine is on my QRZ
73 de N2NLQ
Josh looks great. I'll have the box I am building ready for Huntsville. See you at the park. BTW I have a cabin there rented for Thursday through Sunday.
looks real nice. you may want to add a 120mm 12V fan in go box for when you take it to a hot place. also get a Victron MPPT charge controller and put power poles on it. MC4 as well. got a lot of same power pole stuff . working great for me. nice job on battery switch . I got the same on on a ammo box battery . make some power pole leads 10AWG with fuse and keep them in go box. even one with battery clips . you could RG 400 or RG 393 type coax . but what you have looks fine. just no tight bends. if you find a better dule or tri band rig swap put that 2 meter or add to it. also you may want some kind of amp meter on battery. help you point solar for max out put. also a victron smart battery shunt will be great in that. will show battery level and amps in/out volts and bluetooth to smartphone. they great. take a look at them. I have a ECO-WORTHY 20 Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 in my kit. will fit in yours. it will never be in it's final form unless you stop using it. hope to hear you some time with that. 73's Boston NY
Only just found this despite having subscribed for a while now. Great job! I have an IC-7300 I'd like to power while out in the field in a more compact way than with an Ecoflow. Can that 9ah battery really run everything for a useful amount of time including the 7300?
Love my ic7300. But for portable i would choose a 991a. Less bulky! 73
Hello Josh, nice GO setup. Do You have experience to drive the Icom 7300 with Your Jackery Power Station with full HF output power? Does it work and how long? 73, Ingo from Germany
Just got my gator box in, not the same one but a 6U. looking forward to building it this year
Good looking box you have there also. Yeah, I like good cable management :) it's pleasing to see, but if it works and doesn't impede airflow, then I'd just at least label what's what so future you spends less time troubleshooting
Hi Josh, where did you get the switch panel? Did it come with the gator box or did you purchases it separately?
Hey Josh, great set up mate. Maybe you could add a manual tuner on the top level for long random wires, wheat silos, metal balconies or long fence wires your 7300 can't tune? ha! That and some batteries running in parallel - killer! Well, it's already killer. Wow I love it Josh. Great stuff mate - love your videos. Cheers! Simon VA7BIX
Sticky backs for zip ties super handy for neatness
I have used those personally but Colorado heat plays havoc on the adhesives and you end up with a bunch of loose sticky pads zip tied to wiring.
On the USB passthrough, what is the end that actually connects to the port in the back? If it's already an A, then just use a USB-A to B cable. If it's something else, you might find that cable to a B so you don't have to mess with adapters.
Hello. Where did you buy 1U panel for connectors? I don't see it in your gear list
Nice setup how much does it weight covers on and ready to rool had considered doing someting but i have a suith case lithium battery with full sign 400 watt inverter and all kinde of hookups made for solar pannel without putting batteries in the box more weight still planning to build something really like your case
TeamReplay for the win!
Great go box man, how much does it weigh?
I may have missed it, but could you describe the battery or make a video about running the 7300 with a battery?
Can't wait for you to take that in the field!
I did yesterday. Knocked out a POTA in about thirty minutes then just made contacts for fun. That’s pretty decent for SoCal.
@@HamRadioCrashCourse I noticed you were doing POTA, but I couldn't hear you. I was in Laguna Niguel.
Even though you are running off of batteries. Is there any benefit to running a chassis ground to a small stake that can be pushed into the earth? Or should the negative of the battery be tied to chassis ground?
It’s always a good idea to drop a ground rod. Particularly if you are doing Field Day with others.
congratulations Joshua good job 73 from kb2uew
we had a brown out and it thats great!! 🤣
I prefer the specific use approach as opposed to the everything plus the kitchen sink. Weight is a big issue for me (bad back). I use the gator 3U case with the IC-7300, IT-100 antenna tuner and pactor in one case. Power supplies are separate (flexibility). VHF/UHF go kit is also separate. That way I can (1) take what I need and (2) spread out if more than one person is going to use the radios. Gong to use a 30A battery with a 6A charger for field day. Have been told that combination will supply all the power you need. I field test prior to relying on it. If that fails, will use a 30A switching power supply. Might want to review the "ratpack" videos, #71.
Love it! I just bought my box last night on your live. What speakers are those and are they compatible with any radio? Thanks for the great video!!! 73
Just some two wire speakers I made new plugs for. I got them at HRo they were on consignment.
Great job Josh. Looks great! Wire management? a nightmare LOL (This is coming from someone who is OCD about wiring)
Pretty impressive ... I guess my idea of a grab and go is somewhat smaller.
Given the distance is so short..
I would have used LMR-230 UF , 3ft @ < 0.2dB at 150MHz
What's that 2M antenna you mention near the end?
If you use a web strap (or two) with a Fastex you can still have an easily removable battery, but you won't have to cut the lashing system(zip tie) AND the web will be way stronger than the zip tie. I'd also get some self adhesive clips to hold pens/pencils somewhere reachable the front of the case i.e. operator's position.
I'd also have some adapters for other battery connectors to anderson power poles so I could use other power sources with relative ease. The obvious one would be some a lead with some alligator clips and one for IEC/kettle cables.
You can also get 1RU drawers for keyboards and just plain 1RU drawers for rack mounting.
If you think you'll be doing much digital you might want to think about one of those - a real keyboard and mouse can be nice.
However I think I'd skip the keyboard and mouse and just get a 1Ru drawer for storage (you can still keep a mouse in there).
Given the box sits on it's ends for use on the wheels, if you go down that path you probably want to velco things in e.g. flat storage boxes or maybe clip things. I'd just cover the whole bottom of the drawer with velcro - probably the hook so the loop can be on the items you place in there - that way tools etc with velcro on them would not scratch you up.
To make that work I'd put any drawer at the bottom, move the radio shelf up and mount the speakers in the space above the UHF/VHF radio.
Depending on the depth of the drawer ( I reckon the plain rack mount drawers Ive seen are about 10" deep) you could also have it open to the rear and place it up top oppostie the 1Ru facia with the SO239s, USB, etc.
I'd also be looking at a multipurpose battery charger for 18650s, AAs, AAAs, CR123 functionally equivlant 18xxxs as well.
Less convenieit but still useful - leave it half open and it would be a great charging statiomn.
Probably be worth having some mains power plugs (110v? not sure what you guys use) for when you do have mains power or a generator so you can power the other stuff you'd.
Yeah all that stuff can be separate, but yout go box is for "go"ing so I'd like to keep as much of it together as possible - that makes it easier to go, whether you're deploying or whether your packing up and retiring to your QTH. The less I have to remember to pack/repack the better and the faster I can pack up and go the better.
Although you obviously need some space for airflow I just see a lot of space that could be used to store/carry/present kit that in most situations you are going to want - so why not use that space?
I guess I'd be looking at a go box more as a field technology hub/power dist system that I'd be builing a mobile field headquarters aroound for emcom - or the zombie apocalypse.
How much does your go box weigh?
I (and I am sure everyone else) really likes your Ham Radio Go Box. I recently passed all three exams and got my Amateur Extra license, so I am now purchasing equipment to start learning amateur radio. I love the idea of setting most of my equipment up in a box in my house that I can move around as needed and more importantly, when I want to go to my AR club's field day type event, I just unplug the box and take it and a portable antenna and maybe a battery (if it is not already in the box) to the field day or POTA type event. The one problem is that I want to be able to set everything up by myself, so I want to be able to lift that box to a picnic table. How much does your total box, including your two radios and your battery weigh? Can you lift it to a picnic table yourself or do you need help?
My guess is 10 - 15kg
What is that epic powergate?
You have room for a DMR radio, preprogram it for all the repeaters and then you will need your portable hotspot too. You can run that puppy off your phone.. If you have an iPad they draw less and last longer than a computer and you can run it off your battery as well... Great start but a few more things would be nice...
What dolly do you use?
Josh, how are transceiver, power supply and other components typically fasten to the trays?
Mounting brackets. Bolts and screws, etc.
Hey, in regards to cooling, cable management has no impact on how well air flows through an enclosed area. Linus Tech Tips did a video on it if you want to go check it out.
Nice. I will do that. I the Linus videos.
Where did you get the "shelf" or did it come with the rack itself?
It’s a server rack shelf
Nice gobox, I don't think it'll fit in my backpack for my sota hikes though, lol.
Sorry Josh, I finally heard you say a 9Ah battery. I"m making a power supply only, with 2 10Ah Lithium battries in the box. My solar controler is a duo battery charger. Do you think I should install a switch that controlls which battery I'm working from?
I used the Powergate to switch for me. Which seems like a nice approach for most situations
What would be a rough cost of the build either with or without the 7300?
Good question.
Awesome 🎉
2 years Later... Have you used it? How and what were the reasons / circumstances?
Mostly when camping. All my overnight tent camps I have brought it.
What external speakers are those? Looks awesome!
What is the Brand of the twin speakers on your Go-Box. Are they OK to listen to for a few hours w/o a headset? Looking for that low profile! Thanks
I picked them up used at HRO. They were some no-name model.
Thanks for such a speedy reply. Have a great day!
Unless I can construct a box here I’m out of amateur radio, I have been a ham since 1977 and now live in an apartment and the noise level is killing me from any type of operation. I have a new 7610 and was going to get the 7300 for backup. However if I can put me together one of these to take out here in North Carolina to operate portable I’m going to sell off all my gear. I just retired and thought I could enjoy the hobby I truly love but looks like all the modern electronic equipment is causing too many problems for a lot of hams.
More batteries. BTT A. BTT B. Set it to charge both. But run 1 or the other so it has an emergency swap redy to go.
You can never have too many batteries!
I'm glad I'm not the only one having a bad hair day .... everyday. ;-)
There IS a pull handle case with wheels that is 4U in size.
Maybe a hotspot and a WiFi hotspot on the top. Could fill up some more space and would always have digital ready to go.
Hi interesting video, looks like you might need a small trailer 😉going mobile,,,looks cool 😎,,,thanks from Rotterdam 👍
Have a question for you. Can you use two batteries with the power gate and when one dies(reaches its limits)will it still switch over to the reserve battery?
You’d have to message West Mountain Radio.
Sorry if this is a silly question. But no tuner?
Just the 7300 internal tuner. May change that in the future.
I have a similar, albeit more complex, setup in an 8U version of the same case. I am running a raspberry pi, display, Kenwood TM-V71A, MobilinkD TNC, Yaesu FT-857D, SignalinkUSB, Midland MXT400 (GMRS), Cobra 29LX, a USB hub, WMR RigRunner, and all my connections on on the back except for the mic. I am running the same power supply and the older Epic PWRgate with all the connectors on the top. I have a few minor convenience issues to work out still but overall I like your almost as much as I do my own.
Big question is how much does it weigh?
My battery connection will be a Powerwerx MEGAbox with 70hA battery. Plug in to an external port into box.
Wow. 70ah will keep you going a while.
@@HamRadioCrashCourse the Dual USB cable solution I would suggest is one by Powerwerx : Panel Mount Dual USB 3.0 Male to Female with 6 ft. Extension Cables - SKU: PassDUALUSB
That sure would make great 200k sub giveaway.
Powerwerx - Panel Mount Dual USB 3.0 Male to Female with 6ft Extension cables - SKU: PassDUALUSB - $19
Throw on some straps and go summiting😂
Something like that needs an NVIS Antenna , then I would consider it truly useful. Just a thought. Mike
The antenna I ran the POTA with yesterday was a delta loop. It’s has a bit of NVIS.
Is that the only antenna or do you use another portable antenna with this setup? Yes, I am a ham noob.
Oh yes, I have a lot of antennas. Ham seem to collect them :D
@@HamRadioCrashCourse What are you going to use with that setup? BTW, I think I am going to do something very similar. Thanks for the videos!
WOW men !!!!!!!!!
In your recent pota episode what. Where those whips new from Chameleon I’ve never seen those I have a MPAS 2.0. Scott N9DOD
It’s the same vertical. But two with a wire connecting them both.
So, are you going to take that on the SOTA trip?
Just POTA.
Yeah, I figured. The thought of lugging that up a summit...
Needs a beer koozie and mini-fridge
Koozies now live on HamTactical. Lol
Nice idea but I would put the batteries in a separate fireproof-ish container to protect the expensive equipment in case something goes wrong...
i basically want to duplicate what you have done, wow, I would pay you to build me one!
Make the box a little bigger then you can set up a hammock in it. ;)
I’m so jealous lol
Don't be wedded to screwing every inch of cable, key taut being some cable is ok not being taut, as long wires are convenient and out of the way.
Just a FYI your Amazon link is not working
It’s on your end.
@@HamRadioCrashCourse I got too your page by going directly to Amazon..if I went directly it would time out... I use your page whenever I buy anything cash for you RUclips site
A great project❗️👍 its always super to come up with a project like this but you will ALWAYS find that you could have done ✅ something a little bit better but that for next time❗️👌 KV5P
ahhh i remember my old ham radio days yes hmm yes
I keep looking for someone--anyone--who has built a go box in vertical form factor. You know, a 6U box on end, so every radio is in a vertical stack giving the whole thing about 1/2 the footprint. No luck so far.
So how much does the whole thing weigh?... less is more..!
I’ve got smaller go-kits if I need that. I think this one is 55 lbs. it also has wheels.
Is it my imagination or is that shelf twisted?
Likely camera angle.
Josh, I was surprised by the lack of ferrites on your leads. I would have expected more. I trust that you have tested the inter-unit interference? Hopefully interference will be minimal when operating digital modes.
Ron - W4ORH
Yep. No interference. Also no noise on the power supply.