My Ham Radio Go Box Wiring And Setup
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- Today I'm putting together my ham radio go box. It featutes an ICOM IC-7300 and Alinco DR-135. The box also includes a West Mountain Radio Epic Power Gate to allow for easy switching from battery to power supply.
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Hi Josh,
Ok, in steps as I watch...
[8:30] fuses - the power cable they provide is designed for MOBILE; i.e., CAR & TRUCK use. The fuses are meant to be close to the battery (power source) to protect the wiring & prevent fires. Arcy-sparky & oil/gas don't play nice w/each other.
Wheels! Nice.
But... for POTA, ya needed BIGGER WHEELS! You may want to strap that case onto an aluminum; large pneumatic tire dolly.
According to the West Mountain's Power Gate manual, (copy -n-paste) "Solar Panel - Connectors are intended to connect to a solar panel, NOT A CHARGE CONTROLLER. When the power supply is not present (or off) and there is over 13V on this input, the battery will be charged from this input. This is
an optional input to be used only with a solar panel." People, read the manual!
You've inspired me to circle-back to the Go Box I started a while back (By "started" I mean I have a box. An empty one) Great video!
Fuses are close to the battery to protect the wiring. In the event of a fault you want the fuse to blow close to the battery so you don't keep pumping electrons into a dead short, overheat the wiring, and start a fire.
I do agree with you that it is a pain to shorten the power cables to the desired length. It would be nice if they came in three sections with a radio connector section, the supply/fused section, and an extension.
To expand on Daniel's point with an illustration: Imagine you have a power source (battery) on the left side of your desk, and the load (a radio) on the right side of the desk with the power cable running between. Imagine someone comes in and sets down a large object on the desk with rough edges that pierce the sheilding of the power-cable, causing a short circuit.
If the fuse is close to the load (radio on the right side of the desk) now you have a battery with a short-circuit and that fuse by the radio will NOT do anything to help the situation because the flow of electrons never makes it that far (remember: short-circuit!)
However, if the fuse is close to the source (battery on the left side of the desk) the short-circuit should exceed the value of of the fuse (assuming an appropriate vlaue of fuse was selected!) thus blowing the fuse.
Yes, location of a fuse MATTERS and it should be as close to the source as possible.
73
VE3KLT
100%
That'a a beefy boi. Would have loved to see a back-of-the-napkin wiring schematic on how all of the plugs and switches were wired together. That's what's tripped me up in the past building battery boxes. EXCELLENT video - can't wait to see this chonker in the field.
Thanks for the video! I'm setting one up with my spare 7300 and a 5100. Your video is one of the better ones, for sure! I'm using the 4U and I found a luggage cart the perfect size to roll it around. On another note, if I had that many Anderson connectors, I would lose sleep over the possibility of running out. Stock up.
What got me interested in portable comms was a tv show I watched back in the 70s and early 80s called Emergency. It followed a LAFD crew for 7 seasons, focusing more on the 2 paramedics. They had this one box they always pulled out of the truck when they got on scene. It was a hard case. They opened the cover and plugged in the antenna and it had a common telephone style handset. They used it to talk to the ER docs.
Emergency ran for 7 seasons??? Wow... I remember that series from when I was a kid. I had been given a (good quality metal) fire truck around the same time I was into watching the series in preschool so I would play with the fire truck while watching. (though that is really about all I remember of it from the 70s... I did not know it survived into the 80s.)
Thanks for posting. Always nice to see new ideas, approaches (and questions!) Re fuses- first you fuse to protect the wire, then you fuse to protect the device. Don't forget the spares...
Associated Radio Communications has a UHF(F) 2" bulkhead adapter with rubber washers in stock part# CUS1
This is what I used for my Winlink go-kit.
I also have a Gator 6U Go Box...mine was featured on KM4ACK's RUclips site...I've ripped mine apart 2 times since then, putting things in as well as throwing things out....the wiring can get interesting to say the least... My top 1U where all my switches/outlets and voltage meters go came as a solid piece and I used a "knockout punch" of the correct size to cut holes for those devices.....Lots of fun designing these......Thanks for the video....
A note: when you start wiring your go box....draw out a schematic, it'll help you later....
Very cool, I just did something similar to organize my mobile install. Used a black carpeted studio style 4u rack and the black carpet blends in perfectly with the automotive carpet in my trunk. Used a cool relay from powerwerx that automatically switches off power after a certain amount of time from my car shutting off to prevent me from accidentally draining the battery.
Very cool project Josh! I did a similar project with my Yaesu FT-891 when I upgraded to a new radio. I built mine into an old aluminum briefcase in the hopes that it would give it a bit of RFI protection, plus it looks cool and is fun to carry around what looks like a vintage nuclear football. My cable management was a bit messy looking but it got the job done. Looking forward to more of your project videos like this. 73!
Very nice. I made a cruder attempt at a
smaller go box about 10 years ago with
an mfj battery voltage controller added
to keep the voltage up. I used an earlier
ICOM Analogue/DSTAR mobile radio
as my main transceiver, no HF at that time.
Ray, W2CH
A short tip for installing the shelves. As long as everything is attached securely you can tip the rack so the rails are facing up. That way the shelves can just hang in place and you can easily set them in and get the exactly where you want them. Dave-WA4OPE
That's a BIG go box.
Almost looks too heavy to "Go"
I was thinking that too, but, I guess it also depends on what you mean by "go." If you're car camping, or maybe even DXpedition via plane, etc, heading to a HamFest, and stuff on that order, this is not a bad way to take everything you need in one, solid unit.
@@pspadotto plus there is a little room inside the box (on the back of that top shelf) for some extra cables, wire antenna, roll-up j-pole, etc.
Glad to see somebody else that uses a mini-vac as you work! Haven't built a go box yet but have done several (4) battery boxes ranging from 12 amp hours to 48 amp hours. Step bit is a necessity. Jack K5FIT
Very nice setup Josh.. I'm in the planning stages of a vhf/uhf go box, so thanks for the inspiration !
Nice work. Everyone of of these is different due to different needs, operational needs, budget, and what you have laying around. I've done different types of go kits over the decades as mission and equipment changed. I currently have two different sets (all VHF/UHF, have not needed HF in my area for ARES work to date, and have the rig in my truck if needed) for different needs. In addition to POTA and ARES/RACES work, that would make a nice Field Day station as well.
I used a similar panel for my home made antenna patch panel and my DC supply. I find that fender washers and a deep well socket on both sides you can tighten them up nice and tight and it will look just fine. I have the shallow version of that rack for using under my desk.
Wire management, definitely a love hate relationship. Can be so satisfying but totally sucks having to do it lol
Great vid! My go-box is more like and anchor box! But it does have wheels! FT89, tuner & FTM300DR
The equipment in my ham shack reside in a Gator box. Works well, as I spend winters in Arizona. Makes it easy to go between my home QTH and my winter headquarters.
i would add an automotive fuse block with labels for each connection.
Good idea.
Nice, my go-box is very similar. A fuse's job above all others is preventing fire. The fuses are placed near the power source so that they protect the entire length of wire in case of a short.
Thank you for your post. It helps me understand how to better build my gator go box.
I did not know we do a lot of packet radio here in SoCal. Good to know!
Thanks for the video!
Great video. You gave me a lot of good ideas to uild my go box.
Shout Out to Sweetwater! I bought a guitar from them a few years back and they still check in every now and again by email and phone call!
Excellent video. I'm planning a go kit for my setup. I'm running a Yaesu FT-891 in conjunction with a Raspberry Pi/Digital Radio Amateur Workstation (DRAWS) setup. Everything worked great this past Field Day, but the cable management was a mess, and it pretty much just involved setting everything out all over a table. I'm wanting to build something more self-contained like this where I just open it up, power up, and get on the air. Great video. 73 de KG5TMP.
Love the video great idea there.
Great vid again Josh! I'm a "sound guy" and we are using gooseneck desk lamps on audio mixers. They usually have BNC or XLR connectors (straight and right angle) and I'm pretty sure that You can find some at sweetwater!
Cool! I built a “Ham-O-Can” using a 50 cal ammo can with a Yeasu FT 8800r powered off a battery fed by solar, 110 via a battery tender, and Anderson power poles with connections available in my truck.
The need for brackets has caused me to save every single extra angle bracket, washer, and grommet I've come across.
I'm building my own box once I get a mobile I can afford. Thank God I got in touch with another ham club member so I gotta save all my rubles and possibly pick up a QRP since I'm on a damn island and 20 watts is good enough for the military guys.
Thanks again for getting back to me. I looked up how much sending a zip pack will cost, and I'll just buy you a beer and give you a spot to stay the next time you're on the big island. 🤙🏽
Hahah yes! Save all the brackets.
I bet these videos are good for engagement because I know I have a few opinions while watching this! 😁 On your fusing debacle, I would use a RIGrunner (or similar) that has fuses directly on the distribution board, and then cut the radio power cables as short as you want.
Great job. Got a few new ideas for my own Gator 6u I'm putting together. Thanks for putting together the videos and supporting ham radio!! 73 K9ZF
Good news for you! The West Mountain Radio Epic Powergate does have an integrated MPPT solar charge controller so you can connect your solar panels directly. I don't have one yet but hope to add one to my kit soon. Thanks for the awesome build video! I love watching these to get ideas for future builds.
Ohhh. Ok that is good news, I forgot about that.
Kester solder 60-40 and marine shrink tube - power crimp connectors are a big no-no. Panel mount so-239 - make regular jumpers to pl-259 with reducers - no crimps - 316 coax. Please get some 5 gram packs of desiccant - these are dirt cheap on amazon and reusable and will keep things dry! I'm not giving you a hard time BUT if u want reliable field ops for w/e reason its gotta work when you need it, last thing you want to deal with is some corroded connections showing faults when you really need things to work!
Great build 👍
that a great project. so many ways to do that. I love powerworks stuff. all over my off grid home and in my camping gear. love the IC 7300 . what I use. Great to run on LiFePO4 battery. and has 6 meters ! I use usb C PD 45 watt. they make a 12 to 24V one as well. how I run my laptop. even the one watching this video. HP 17 in with PD cord .direct to my 24V system. watch out for solar charge controllers a bunch of them make HF noise. use ferrite . it varys brand to brand so I test them first for the hash noise. now make a ammo box battery ! now for me would be different. no power supply ,no inside battery. USB C PD port. and a GMRS radio .but each HAM will have their own. we just custom build .for them SO 239 bulkhead make some washers for both sides. I run a drill press threw tractor supply washers . they great for hardware and buy me. 73's
Excellent!
Great vid. For lighting: One of those computer gooseneck work lights that plug straight into a USB outlet would be handy and adaptable.
I like the GMRS "go box" that is built inside a ammo can.
6U as in 6 Units. There are SO many items for them. My dad used them for audio, as did my high school. I used them at church for audio, visual and networking. You can go many different ways. Think of where you want your radios, air flow, power supply, battery or both. Connections you might need for power or antennas. I wired a switch outlet to a psu. Lighting in the case.
It’s literally a shack to go. I say work in sections and make custom cables.
That is the correct power cable.
My Anytone and TYT had three fuses. I think my Kenwood has 2. My 7300, I cut the cable and put power poles on all of them. I even made more. Including a cordless drill battery pack that died. It has power poles.
Great Vid. a police supply equipment store should carry a 12v light with a gooseneck that plugs into the cigar lighter socket. Another great choice would be the LED tube light that Anderson Power carries in their web site. very light weight and mounting brackets simple stick on. on/off switch on end of tube and it comes with power plugs already installed. And I'd add a mini Maglite so you have something to use when your working at night.
Josh, Sweetwater is located in Fort Wayne, Indiana. I live about 25 min north of there. Great place. Huge building, from showroom, to studio, rock camps, lessons, repair, etc. Even a concert venue. If you need pro audio gear, they are the place. Sometimes a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. Has anyone from guitar center or musicians friend ever called for follow ups? Probably not. Also, whatever you by from them, you can call anytime for the life of the product with questions. Not affiliated, but have purchased many items from them. 73. KD9NZK. Troy
Assuming that it’s a 19 inch setup, there is a ton of IT as well as Audio stuff on EBay and Amazon. From lighting to shelves. Most of the electrical stuff is for hardwire, but some of the pop out lights are LED, so a little solder goes a long way. Great job on the video.
Get me that little machine that goes “BING”!
Great video Josh, go boxes are very popular here in the Emergency Wireless Institute Civil Emergency Network (WICEN) and such. Also great for FD ops! 73 Hayden
Thanks for sharing your go box build. Try looking for an auto map light. You will need another accessory jack for it, but it will give you adequate lighting.
Maybe use some aftermarket license plate lights used on step bumper's. One of them with a red LED bulb and the other with a clear LED bulb. Weather proof and cheap to replace if it gets broken.
I enjoyed your video on the Radio Go box Unfortunaly when it comes to the wiring of the volt meter and others in series, I couldn't see to well how you did the in series portion.
Thank you!!!
Gobs of variety in USB gooseneck lights. Maybe add one of the dual USB panel mount connectors for one of those? Fun video. Thanks Josh. 73//KK0DJ
I just completed a go box. As they are all different, mine used a suitcase style box from Home Depot made by Rigid. It was a poor choice. It is self contained and uses a mobile radio (Anytone AT-5888UV), Mobilinkd TNC3 for Winlink, and a 30AH battery. Three ways to charge: AC charger (built in), Solar (10A max), and a DC/DC converter (can fully charge battery to 14.6 volts from any source between 8V and 14V). Key components I learned and used are: Ideal diodes. They have almost no forward drop and provide lossless reverse battery protection. Poly switches. A positive temperature coefficient thermistor with a sharp "knee". Acts as a self resetting fuse. So I don't have to open up the box to replace a fuse if I screw up.
When it comes building a Go Boxes, there's no right way or wrong way to construct them. It's all about customizing it to fit your needs. That the approach I took with mine. Making it functional is what's important.
Your intro reminded me of Montana Cal’s ole “that’s some really good audio right thar” routine. He moved from Idaho to the Phillipines and did a travel log under a different name but disappeared soon afterwards.
Powerpole tip: Glue a pair of housings together in the right orientation for ham radio use. I tape them to the inside front of the box that holds my PP stuff with the wire end down. You can see the metal clips and then use that to put the crimp on pins the right side up so no wire twisting!
I use a fishing tackle bag with the utility trays for all my connector stuff. Pocket on the front holds all the crimping tools and the side pockets hold stripping tools. Portable for field day use! Has coax, powerpoles, spade/ring terminals, some spare fuses...
Drilling tip to save cleanup of sharp little metal bits: Lay tape down sticky side up to catch the little metal shards, especially handy if you need to drill over existing equipment or over carpet.
Very nice! Thanks for posting. Still room for more devices. From past experience. In situations where a "go box" was necessary, the ability to transmit images was vital.
SSTV?
@@Justin-bd2dg maybe drm sstv. But if one is going to be communicating with government agencies Pactor would be a better choice. Thing is, Pactor modems are very expensive. Check out disaster responses in Puerto Rico and Haiti.
@@bet2600 what benefit of images could come during a bona-fide emergency?
@@Justin-bd2dg It would give first first responders an idea of conditions before they arrive. One would also be dealing with lists of supplies, etc,etc. With Pactor it could be sent in bulk. The more information that can be gathered the better. DHS also has "the citizen corps", which is associated with the ARRL. There is also REACT. Perhaps not all "go boxes" are for assisting in disaster relief. I have been away from ham radio for 10 years or so. What do you think Justin?
@@bet2600 I think Winlink is much more useful. Have you ever looked at SSTV images? Grainy and slowwww...
To attach the so239 to the panel what I have used is get a "D" series blank plastic cover and then drill the 5/8 hole you need to mount the so239 and then bolt that into the panel
Tip with your wiring management, you can get cable tie saddles and mount them to the tray, get some split tube/loom to Inclose the cable, cloth tape instead of electrical except wire isolation joints. Use RG400 if you are worried about cable loss, put some Freire coils on the usb and power cables to stop RF Interference if any. Have the radio grounded along with a grounding kit, place some microphone clips in the box somewhere, might be best off getting some blue loc-tite on the RU rack bolts peace of mind on the racks always staying in place. Just helpful tips
love anderson connectors
Awesome project Josh, I am going to have to make one now too. But to answer your question about the fuse, if you put the fuse closer to the radio, and if there is an issue and the wire gets too hot, it will melt the wire all the up to the fuse. you want the fuse closer to the power load so it protects the wires going into your car. now if you are going to cut the wires you can cut to fit but you want to have that fuse close to the power source.
W5SWL sells bulkhead connectors that have a flange with 4 holes
Any cord or cable that has power pole connectors on both ends can be used in either direction so it is good practice to put the fuse in each conductor at the opposite end of the fuse in the other conductor. That way, no matter which end is connected to the source and which is connected to the load you have a fuse at the supply end that will open in the event of a short circuit. In the event of an overload either or both fuses will open to deenergize the excessive load. Placing 2 fuses at each end does not provide better protection from either short circuit or excessive load and is just a waste of materials.
Tom Horne W3TDH
Ha Ha, had to pick up the organization box. I don't feel so bad now:-) Mounted mine to the wall outside my radio shack and filled with my collection of random wire connections and power poles.
They make reducing wash for eletrical connections you might find the right size for the bulk head antenna connections
I live about 45min from Sweetwater. I do play with some music and love Sweetwater. When you call/email/chat with questions you actually talk to someone who knows the equipment. If the person you get doesn't know the particular gear your asking about(because they have a lot, no one knows it all) they will get you someone who does know it. If you ever have need of audio gear or musical gear, calling Sweetwater will very much remind you of calling Gigaparts.
Regarding fuses on the factory wire, who knows. Personally I want fuses at both ends so that if something happens in between that is causing power to be injected to the cable both ends blow. I'm mainly thinking about in a car where you may have a long power run where that is possible. Now just imagine if all radios used a standardized power connector! You know like USB-C. I said like, because I know USB C doesn't have enough power or amps for some radios.
I did a similar thing, but with graphene batteries, solar inverter.. all inside the faraday cage with magnetic protection and electromagnets
Very nice project. I watched your video and gave me ideas to build a "go box" on my own. Thank you for laying out the wiring well. I do have a question in regard to the first button (with the blue light in upper left corner). Can you please explain what ends of the wires go where on the wiring? I couldn't really follow how they get hooked up. Like, where does the other end plug into, the distribution block between the "out" on the Pwrgate? I guess I am asking where you are cutting the power. To the distribution block, power supply, or battery? If anyone reading this can give me some insight. Any information will be appreciated. Thank you.
Used those speakers in my car. Wish they were a little louder as I can't hear over open windows. Although it may be the radios I'm receiving because my town's FD guys are louder but my PD is low.
Solder & Heat shrink nicer that spices. Use pieces of headshrink to keep wires together/cable management is easier.
Love the use of the Power Gate. Now, I use mine for my Flexradio and have since I got the Powergate. I use mine more as a UPS for the radio so when I loose power, I have time to safely shutdown the Flex or if not, it will run the radio for about 4 hours (That storm we had last winter was a good test). I also have a go box and I use the West Mountain Rig Runner 4007U which includes 2 USB power connectors which I use for the PI 400 and external monitor. My Solar power controller/battery was the BuddiPole Powermini into the West Mountain. The radio I chose was the FTDX-10. I am very glad you showed how to mount the radio. I need to do this but I have a full shelf in mine that attaches to the front and rear. As such, it is adjustable and it makes marking out the holes a little more difficult and Yaesu does not have the mobile mount so I fashioned something up that I hope to improve on. It weighs 35 pounds and most of that weight is the damn steel shelf. What was your weight in the end? I was hoping you would say. For lighting, look at W1FYG Smoke Signals RF's design. There is a company that TO showed that Don uses in his Go Box.
I’ve got a few more things to do and I’ll do a follow on video. I’m guessing we’re above 40 lbs at this point, give or take.
I’m going to look up that lighting now.
I weighed it. 50 lbs. it’s a chungus. Lol
While I definitely see the advantage of using a Power Gate to switch from AC to battery, for me who's on a limited budget, $189.00 for the Power Gate is a bit much. So, in lieu of using a Power Gate, I'm using bus bars and a manual DPDT switch instead. Also, no extra spending on Anderson Power Poles.
@@kennethherring2918 I only use mine for the Flexradio which is an investment that I want to protect. For my go box, I don't use a Power Gate and in fact, I don't really have an AC requirement. That my personal choice not to use AC.
Great vid, i'm getting some ideas from it. Planning on a smaller one with my 705!
Just a couple things comes in mind.
1. You can probably leave out the fuses in the wiring (and save space) by using a fused power distribution strip.
2. I hate those 12V to USB things because they produce a lot of HF noise. I have one in my truck and it's making 2m almost unusable. Noise level changes with the load on the USB all over the place. At least make this switchable to shut the interference off as needed. If you found one without this problem, please share details!
3. Recently i watched some vid's about the (LiFePO4) batteries, some of the cheaper ones seems to have a tendency to heat up pretty good.
4. Lighting: a RGBW LED strip seems to be a good idea - dimmable and color set (like bright white for setup a place or glowing red or green while operating at night looks kinda cool)...and a set of PUG lights for flood light while setup antennas!
The Chinese PSU are pretty good. Get the one with the “L” feet.
Those "all thread SO-239" are called feed throughs btw.. To keep them from slipping or becoming loose use washers under the nuts to better grab the case...
Cable management guy here. Tyvm. :D
I’m just getting started with all this. Where would I go to find information on what systems I really should use in an emergency. I seen some saying photo transfer is important.
I know each region and group has their own preferences. I just wonder what it would take to satisfy all their needs.
Deepwell Socket to tighten those Bulkhead connectors. nice looking start to the box! de NJ4Z
Instead of using the XLR panel that came with the case you can actually order a blank server rack metal plates. That way there when you use your step bit to drill out holes whether it be for the antennas or your switches they will always be the perfect size. They're fairly cheap as well and definitely as a step up from having everything wiggling and driving you crazy.
By the way, I do electrical work and I have the same knipex pliers. I absolutely love them.
If that's the WestMountain Radio Epic PWRGate, it has a built-in MPPT solar charge controller. That's good, MPPT is more effecient that the PWM-style charge conrollers.
Also, I belive you can configure charging settings (max bat. voltage, LiFePo4 vs SLA battery, etc.) from that USB port AND get current charge / battery status.
Loved the video, Josh. An idea for installing a heavy shelf, put the box on it's back and it will be easer to align the shelf with the holes. I will have a strip in the back for power and antenna connections.
Great Job, Bizz
KD4CXI
Great video! I always wonder why guys don’t use the ft-991a. Why the 7300 over ft-991a?
I like to work vhf and hf at the same time.
Hey was wondering if you feel as though this case would need a "station ground" ie. to connect a bus bar inside case to bulkhead to ground stake outside??
The single button to turn everything on is convenient, but I suggest adding a cover for it so that it doesn't get used to inconveniently turn everything off by mistake.
great build. what's the size of your power supply looks smaller than 10 amps ??? was thinking of building something like that. with a dewalt tool box but at the moment got too many things on the go
Now I have the battletoads pause stuck in my head for the rest of the week
Can you use PTT to switch an RGB strip from green to red when “on air”? Ham radio needs more RGB!
Watching this video makes me hungry for italian food! I'm thinking lasagna, no wait, linguine, spaghetti, a good marinara sauce with lots of black pepper, that's it! lol Seriously though, nice work, looks very useful. I'm very interested to see what you do with the battery. Wondering about about heating/cooling issues, adding fans? My one recommendation for the video is that it would have been nice to see more close ups with perhaps your touching wires and naming their purpose. But otherwise, was good stuff. Thanks!
Use washers with the SO-239 connectors. washers will tighten up the connectors bro. Nice job brother. Use safety glasses when drilling metal ,learned the hard way and got a piece of metal in my eye so please use glasses.
They make UHF bulkhead connectors that mount with 4 screws, they cannot come loose, and will not turn if you had a whip mounted with a 90.
The real key to minimal yet flexible wiring is Anderson connectors!!!
hey you got my rca rotor there josh lol gud rotor for the price
there are new factory power connectors available on the web. and or just replace with the anderson plugs on the radio cases.
when you buy a couple screws, nuts, (buy nylock nuts also) flat washers, etc buy a whole box of them. never buy/use crack washers aka "split". as they do fail and fall out.
@8:45 Because the fuses don't protect the radio, they protect the wire. If the fuses were close to the radio, and the wires shorted upstream (on the power source side of the fuses, e.g. the battery) then the wires themselves may act as fuses by melting and possibly setting other things on fire.
The fuses protect the wires, not the radio.
Love the shirt! :D
I’ve been trying to figure this out but haven’t had any luck. What’s the logo for?
@@timvonder Are you referring to my profile picture? If so, it is an image that may represent the magnetics of the plane we live on, Earth. I don't believe it is 100% accurate, but I've kept it there so others may be led to further research and understand how our earth actually works. Being that we don't live on a ball like nasa, etc has been telling us.
So basically a minor attempt to help open peoples minds up to more possibilities :)
@@timvonder Sorry, I know that's an earful, best I can explain it though.
Is there a concern of the HF coax and VHF coax being tied together on the braid thru the metal panel the bulkheads are attached thru?
Ground sides no, but multiple radios, using separate antennas, in close proximity can damage each other.
I actually have a project going right now that has to do with your lighting. there is a guy on youtube with something similar but basically involves a led strip, a 1" acrylic tube with the switch on the end with a 3d print part so it slides back into your accessory bar you have at the top. let me know if it's something you're interested in I bought all the stuff to make it but don't have the box for it to go in at the moment.
Do you have a detailed parts list of this rig build?
This inspired me to do something very similar. I am new so I would like to know or see where you plugged in your master 3 prong switch?
Figured it out! Helped to sit down and draw it out!!
Good job
Where can I buy a plastic or steel rackblank with holes (16-17mm) for attaching the antenna connector to the rackblank 1U? Here is Korea. Please tell me the site.
Regarding the Epic PWRGate and using a Solar Charge Controller. I'm pretty sure in the manual it says to NOT use a charge controller on that solar input.