Fyi, Japanese grafters wrap some kind of paper/tape around the buds to avoid losing them when passing thru the hole. This kind of tape used in another grafting context: ruclips.net/video/9FR1eC0F5Wo/видео.html Looking for the vid where it is showed...
Have you ever used the seedlings to do root grafts as approach grafts where you use the trunk seedlings to thicken the trunk as well? I’ve seen the technique applied on video, but wondered if you had tried it since you work with tridents a lot? Thanks nice detailed instructions.
Do you mean that you do an approach graft and then leave the seedling attached for a while after the graft has taken as a sacrifice branch? I've not, but mainly because I ground grow most of my trees and so I get a lot of growth every year. If I had one in a pot that I wanted to thicken up, I might try it.
Just a tip: drill slightly down so that the exit hole comes out from underneath the base. It shouldn't exit and hit the trunk at all. You can then pass the donor through the hole, underneath the nebari to the opposite side where you can wire it up and into the light. I grow donor cuttings in a seed tray, laying them almost flat so I can achieve this technique. Hope this helps.
That's a good tip, thank you. In this case with this seedling, that would have made the roots of the seedling I selected angle upwards. As I imagine it, would this only work with nebari that are already very flat? Those that angle upwards would not match with this technique very well, would they?
@@smalltrees in one year saplings it doesn't matter. You just select the roots most perpendicular to the trunk as your keepers or bamboo skewers placed under the structural roots either side and on top of the graft work well.
I see. I may try it once or twice off camera and make sure I am comfortable with it before I show it in any video. thank you very much for the insight!
Felt I should make a general remark and encouragement to express that you certainly made progress with both trees and video making. Not suggesting the quality been bad before but that practice makes perfect. Keep up the good work!
Question good sir! Eventually you are going to want feeder roots directly below the tree where all those big roots are. how will you get the feeder roots to grow there? Will they come in time?
I'll cut the roots closer to the trunk eventually. With this tree having especially radial roots, I wanted to see if they would fuse by themselves. If so, the nebari will be insane. In either case, you will use a combo of specific soil and root work to get the feeder roots where you want them. All of my trees and really all of my content is focused on work that I do on trees that are still in the very early stages of development. I do a pretty good job of keeping feeder roots close to the trunk on ground-grown trees, but there is definitely a different approach when you start to think about potting a tree.
Both very good tips! I think I tried to wrap the buds with cling wrap, but couldn't do it. I need some raffia or something. I will definitely try the wood on the exit side on my next graft. Simple, but very smart!
I have no idea what an Ebihara fused root plate is and not that interested in finding out but if I ever need to do a thread type root graft know I know how. As always thanks.
Luckily for you, I have an intro video on the subject, and I did a follow up on it as the first in the uncut series I think. ruclips.net/video/GRHYW_LZzmg/видео.html
I get most comment notifications straight to my phone, so I try to stay on top of it. After you watch my video, search for Ebihara Maples or Zelkova on Google. His methods changed the way people practiced bonsai when he first began showing his trees.
This video was shot just a couple days ago. The tree that I showed before the tutorial actually does have a before and after. The video where I made the root grafts on that tree was made last year, and you can see it here: ruclips.net/video/siMFRiLfK_4/видео.html . The update video was filmed last week and can be seen here: ruclips.net/video/lmgKojpGkRY/видео.html
@@smalltrees Got it. I thought you mentioned it being spring a time or two, which might not be a glaring error in your climate zone. But I'm in zone 6 where it's 10 degrees Fahrenheit as I write this, so actual spring for me is far, far away. XD Keep up the great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I'm sure it has been done, but you would need foliage above it to keep the tree from dying back below the graft before it could take. If you wanted to graft a leader for the future, before you chop the tree, that could be easily done.
Fyi, Japanese grafters wrap some kind of paper/tape around the buds to avoid losing them when passing thru the hole.
This kind of tape used in another grafting context: ruclips.net/video/9FR1eC0F5Wo/видео.html
Looking for the vid where it is showed...
Now that you mention it, I have seen it. I should have been better with my preparation for this video. Thank you for bringing that to my attention!
@@smalltrees You're welcome.
You won't forget anymore now...
i guess you can use baking paper for that purpose
I just tried to use some things I had available (cling wrap, moistened newspaper) and had mixed results. I'll give baking paper a shot.
Great video!
Nice vids! Very informative stuff here.
Thank you! This has fused but I didn't separate the graft yet. I probably will in the spring.
Have you ever used the seedlings to do root grafts as approach grafts where you use the trunk seedlings to thicken the trunk as well? I’ve seen the technique applied on video, but wondered if you had tried it since you work with tridents a lot? Thanks nice detailed instructions.
Do you mean that you do an approach graft and then leave the seedling attached for a while after the graft has taken as a sacrifice branch? I've not, but mainly because I ground grow most of my trees and so I get a lot of growth every year. If I had one in a pot that I wanted to thicken up, I might try it.
Tape the buds before pushing through. ❤️👌🏻
Just a tip: drill slightly down so that the exit hole comes out from underneath the base. It shouldn't exit and hit the trunk at all. You can then pass the donor through the hole, underneath the nebari to the opposite side where you can wire it up and into the light. I grow donor cuttings in a seed tray, laying them almost flat so I can achieve this technique. Hope this helps.
That's a good tip, thank you. In this case with this seedling, that would have made the roots of the seedling I selected angle upwards. As I imagine it, would this only work with nebari that are already very flat? Those that angle upwards would not match with this technique very well, would they?
@@smalltrees in one year saplings it doesn't matter. You just select the roots most perpendicular to the trunk as your keepers or bamboo skewers placed under the structural roots either side and on top of the graft work well.
I see. I may try it once or twice off camera and make sure I am comfortable with it before I show it in any video. thank you very much for the insight!
@@smalltrees no problem, good to see folk doing diligent, careful work for a quality end product rather than some quick hack n slash channels.
For sure. Some people will do some crazy, great looking work but you know it's just going to kill the tree.
Felt I should make a general remark and encouragement to express that you certainly made progress with both trees and video making. Not suggesting the quality been bad before but that practice makes perfect. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much! I am proud of where both I and the tree have gotten to.
…… great video! Whose cut paste did you use? Thanks for sharing!
I used my own. I make it and sell it on my website!
Question good sir! Eventually you are going to want feeder roots directly below the tree where all those big roots are. how will you get the feeder roots to grow there? Will they come in time?
I'll cut the roots closer to the trunk eventually. With this tree having especially radial roots, I wanted to see if they would fuse by themselves. If so, the nebari will be insane. In either case, you will use a combo of specific soil and root work to get the feeder roots where you want them. All of my trees and really all of my content is focused on work that I do on trees that are still in the very early stages of development. I do a pretty good job of keeping feeder roots close to the trunk on ground-grown trees, but there is definitely a different approach when you start to think about potting a tree.
Why not approach grafting since the seedling are also bent in such way that they would have sit perfectly , I believe.
Hold a piece of wood at the exit side. ❤️👍🏼✅
Both very good tips! I think I tried to wrap the buds with cling wrap, but couldn't do it. I need some raffia or something. I will definitely try the wood on the exit side on my next graft. Simple, but very smart!
I have no idea what an Ebihara fused root plate is and not that interested in finding out but if I ever need to do a thread type root graft know I know how. As always thanks.
Luckily for you, I have an intro video on the subject, and I did a follow up on it as the first in the uncut series I think. ruclips.net/video/GRHYW_LZzmg/видео.html
@@smalltrees Ok I will take a look, I also appreciate your speedy responses
I get most comment notifications straight to my phone, so I try to stay on top of it. After you watch my video, search for Ebihara Maples or Zelkova on Google. His methods changed the way people practiced bonsai when he first began showing his trees.
Great video! Thank you! Two questions: This was spring 2020, right? Can you post an update of how the grafts have progressed since then?
This video was shot just a couple days ago. The tree that I showed before the tutorial actually does have a before and after. The video where I made the root grafts on that tree was made last year, and you can see it here: ruclips.net/video/siMFRiLfK_4/видео.html . The update video was filmed last week and can be seen here: ruclips.net/video/lmgKojpGkRY/видео.html
@@smalltrees Got it. I thought you mentioned it being spring a time or two, which might not be a glaring error in your climate zone. But I'm in zone 6 where it's 10 degrees Fahrenheit as I write this, so actual spring for me is far, far away. XD Keep up the great videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My spring usually comes pretty early, and my winters are mild, so they almost blur together.
Thank you for the kind words!
Are you going for that Ebihara fused root-plate look?
In general, no, but I may be able to get it with this tree without a lot of additional effort. If so, I'll gladly take it!
How about thread grafting to create the new leader? Has someone tried it?
I'm sure it has been done, but you would need foliage above it to keep the tree from dying back below the graft before it could take. If you wanted to graft a leader for the future, before you chop the tree, that could be easily done.
@@smalltrees AWESOME! Thanks!
No problem! I'll look for an opportunity to make a graft like this and make a video if I have a suitable tree.