I'm going to try planting a few that way and a few more with another idea that I had that will either be really cool or a complete bust. I'm going to try to get supplies today if I'm able and release the video Sunday or Monday. Should be interesting to have a couple more techniques to compare!
I guess when the trunks are confined like that, it doesn't take a whole lot. I have a couple more like that one that I haven't dug yet. Maybe they're all like that!
I gotta say man. I watched a ton of bonsai videos with great information but by far your channel is my favorite. I have learned more from you than all the other channels. Please keep up the good work! Your updates are phenomenal stuff.
I really appreciate that! I am in an awkward spot with my work schedule making it hard to get all of my garden work done, but I'm filming what I'm doing so I will have plenty to release soon.
Let me know how it works! Someone on here suggested supergluing the bottom of the washer to the tree so that it doesn't shift as the tree is growing. I'm going to do that with the ones I plant this way next year, I think you should too!
No problem! I think I'm going to stick to the metal for the most part, but I know if several highly respected trident growers (and other growers as well) who use the washer to get a good start on nebari.
It can't get here fast enough! Tomorrow is supposed to be the last cold day here for a while so I might start doing some fun stuff soon that I have saved for after the cold has gone.
The ethics here reminds me of those in a utopia (like the divergent series for example), like what characteristics make a tree 'perfect' or desirable or not. Then that the imperfect trees must be 'corrected'. I'm still curious to try methods to create a 'desirable' nebari, but I also feel like there is some beauty in imperfect trees. The more I search the internet, the more trees I see that have been through drastic measures to 'correct' imperfect trees. I believe it is easy to take bonsai a little too far sometimes. There is beauty in flaw and beauty in all
I agree, but I think we all ultimately try to create a tree that looks natural, and certain characteristics (roots halfway up the trunk, above the soil line) are not typically present in a mature tree. Things like that should be addressed if you want your end product to look natural.
like the washer/metal idea for nebari,,,if tree is a problem inserting in the metal,,,drill center hole ,,,cut 1/2 way thru metal...then rivet the metal together... saves on upper tree scaring...another is useing root grafting where needed ..
It can be planted at an angle, it could be trained as an informal or maybe even formal upright, or you could always graft on a new branch to serve as a leader. I'm not sure how well the last option would work.
I think if you don't want to take off branches etc in the last one- just cut your plate in half down the middle after drilling the hole, then attach it back together after putting the two pieces around the base of the tree? you could weld it, tie it via a couple of holes, etc etc ?
I've really been enjoying this trident maple series. Keep up the good work! I'm doing something very similar to this with Japanese maples this year. I'm using sheet metal that's ~3inx3in.
Thank you! That size should be plenty large enough. We'd realistically want to cut back to an area about that size when we work the roots unless we want a lot more growth. Let me know how it works for you!
Have you tried using old CD’s, I’ve found they are the proper size to create that root spread and they are easy to eventually remove as they are plastic? Create great radial roots, and last well I dear ground. Give it a shot on your next batch.
And their easily adjustable for the center hole to fit any diameter small tree near trying to increase in the nabari on. Small die grinder does the trick quickly.
I thought it was best practise not to cut more than 60% of the tap root off ? And also if the Nabari gets big and chunky ,will the branch structure ever catch up so that the tree will look in Proportion,do you know what I mean ?
The tap root doesn't matter, as long as there are enough feeder roots elsewhere for the tree to survive. I plant all of my trees through something (usually a metal sheet) and it eventually chokes the tap root enough that it dies on its own. Branches are a lot easier to thicken than nebari. You can simply let part of the vranch grow freely, and then remove that part when the branch had thickened the appropriate amount. Keep the area of the branch close to the tree trimmed/keep it with short internodes, and then let the end of it grow without trimming it. It will catch up to the nebari quickly.
I removed them because I wanted to thread this tree through the metal plate in order to hopefully get a better nebari started, and they wouldn't fit through the hole in the plate without breaking.
That is turface. I made a video answering some questions last year and I showed my soil mix at around the 25:50 mark. ruclips.net/video/pgoIW3bOzJw/видео.html
Yes, it is both because they are still providing nutrition to the tree (the washer hasn't choked them off yet) but also because I'm not set in the direction I want to go, and I don't have time at the present to go through all of them and make these decisions. I should have a week off in Early March and I'm going to try to take the time to give each tree the necessary attention to make it better.
If the surface roots were enough to support the tree, it should. However, and this is based on one tree and may not be accurate, I separated a tree planted through metal from its bottom roots early last year, once it had begun callousing and was just beginning to issue roots, to see what would happen. It spent the whole year in stasis and didn't grow much at all. I think you need adequate roots above to support the whole tree before you separate the bottom, or you'll sacrifice a lot of growth that year. With that being said, I think I will peek at the base of that tree in the morning and see what it looks like. If it's interesting, I'll include it in the video I'm making, probably coming out tomorrow.
Just hard to know what to do exactly. Interesting about the stall in growth. I have read an article about cutting the roots at 3” below the crown on saplings in dormancy and sticking them into pots 3” deep in well draining soul with some saplings not having any fibrous roots at all ant having roots form radially at the cut in the bottom of the pot. I haven’t tried this myself but it was a reputable source that has had years of experience. Brent Walston at evergreen garden 🪴 works has an article entitled
What's the article called? I'll check it out. My method of planting through metal and leaving it for a year has yielded very good and consistent results so far, but I'll check out the article and see what all the details are.
I did the same with old dvds. You get a nice base with nice horizontal roots.
I'm going to try planting a few that way and a few more with another idea that I had that will either be really cool or a complete bust. I'm going to try to get supplies today if I'm able and release the video Sunday or Monday. Should be interesting to have a couple more techniques to compare!
Excellent. Some were better than others for sure but I think all had at least some potential. Crazy you got that triple fusion in one growing season!
I guess when the trunks are confined like that, it doesn't take a whole lot. I have a couple more like that one that I haven't dug yet. Maybe they're all like that!
AHHHHH NICE. love the triple trunk!!!!!
I gotta say man. I watched a ton of bonsai videos with great information but by far your channel is my favorite. I have learned more from you than all the other channels. Please keep up the good work! Your updates are phenomenal stuff.
I really appreciate that! I am in an awkward spot with my work schedule making it hard to get all of my garden work done, but I'm filming what I'm doing so I will have plenty to release soon.
Great idea with the sheet metal. Can't wait to see the results!
Thanks! Most of my bigger trees, including the ebihara maple, were started through metal. I'm a big believer in the results it gives.
I’m planning to try this with some oaks I grew this year!
Let me know how it works! Someone on here suggested supergluing the bottom of the washer to the tree so that it doesn't shift as the tree is growing. I'm going to do that with the ones I plant this way next year, I think you should too!
@@smalltrees ah I was planning on tying them with wire! I know the slight bigger ones,, you can drill under the trunk.
oh my goodness that is genius they make washers in larger sizes too thanks small trees
No problem! I think I'm going to stick to the metal for the most part, but I know if several highly respected trident growers (and other growers as well) who use the washer to get a good start on nebari.
@@smalltrees OK everything you ever suggested has worked so will keep tuning in thanks so much Lets Go Spring
It can't get here fast enough! Tomorrow is supposed to be the last cold day here for a while so I might start doing some fun stuff soon that I have saved for after the cold has gone.
I too like this technique. I will have to try this on my tridents.
Nice technique, definitely gonna try this!
Great stuff man. Keep posting. Best stuff I’ve seen so far on young bonsai
Thank you! I really appreciate it; that's my field of expertise and I'm glad you enjoy the videos!
The ethics here reminds me of those in a utopia (like the divergent series for example), like what characteristics make a tree 'perfect' or desirable or not. Then that the imperfect trees must be 'corrected'. I'm still curious to try methods to create a 'desirable' nebari, but I also feel like there is some beauty in imperfect trees. The more I search the internet, the more trees I see that have been through drastic measures to 'correct' imperfect trees. I believe it is easy to take bonsai a little too far sometimes. There is beauty in flaw and beauty in all
I agree, but I think we all ultimately try to create a tree that looks natural, and certain characteristics (roots halfway up the trunk, above the soil line) are not typically present in a mature tree. Things like that should be addressed if you want your end product to look natural.
like the washer/metal idea for nebari,,,if tree is a problem inserting in the metal,,,drill center hole ,,,cut 1/2 way thru metal...then rivet the metal together...
saves on upper tree scaring...another is useing root grafting where needed ..
Looks like you don’t have buds closer to the base to cut back in the future and put some movement in the trunk line. How would you fix this?
It can be planted at an angle, it could be trained as an informal or maybe even formal upright, or you could always graft on a new branch to serve as a leader. I'm not sure how well the last option would work.
I think if you don't want to take off branches etc in the last one- just cut your plate in half down the middle after drilling the hole, then attach it back together after putting the two pieces around the base of the tree? you could weld it, tie it via a couple of holes, etc etc ?
I've really been enjoying this trident maple series. Keep up the good work!
I'm doing something very similar to this with Japanese maples this year. I'm using sheet metal that's ~3inx3in.
Thank you! That size should be plenty large enough. We'd realistically want to cut back to an area about that size when we work the roots unless we want a lot more growth. Let me know how it works for you!
@@smalltrees Will do! I don't make videos but I'll be sure to send over some photos.
Perfect! My email is smalltrees.yt@gmail.com or you can go to the website and do the chat function and it goes right to my email as well.
Good work..my friend👍👍
Thank you!
Have you tried using old CD’s, I’ve found they are the proper size to create that root spread and they are easy to eventually remove as they are plastic? Create great radial roots, and last well I dear ground. Give it a shot on your next batch.
I haven't! I will have to buy some and give it a shot!
And their easily adjustable for the center hole to fit any diameter small tree near trying to increase in the nabari on. Small die grinder does the trick quickly.
I had another idea for early nebari growth. I'll plant some like this and some with my new idea and see how they turn out!
I thought it was best practise not to cut more than 60% of the tap root off ?
And also if the Nabari gets big and chunky ,will the branch structure ever catch up so that the tree will look in Proportion,do you know what I mean ?
The tap root doesn't matter, as long as there are enough feeder roots elsewhere for the tree to survive. I plant all of my trees through something (usually a metal sheet) and it eventually chokes the tap root enough that it dies on its own.
Branches are a lot easier to thicken than nebari. You can simply let part of the vranch grow freely, and then remove that part when the branch had thickened the appropriate amount. Keep the area of the branch close to the tree trimmed/keep it with short internodes, and then let the end of it grow without trimming it. It will catch up to the nebari quickly.
Love the tatt. I use to watch DBZ after school decades ago lol.
Have you tried the tile method?
Thanks for the demonstration! Why do you remove the sub-trunks?
I removed them because I wanted to thread this tree through the metal plate in order to hopefully get a better nebari started, and they wouldn't fit through the hole in the plate without breaking.
@@smalltrees Of course! Sorry I'm slow on the uptake today
Haha, we've all been there. No problem!
Nice experiments.
Thank you!
What are the red clay particles in your soil/tree beds?
That is turface. I made a video answering some questions last year and I showed my soil mix at around the 25:50 mark. ruclips.net/video/pgoIW3bOzJw/видео.html
Hanya dengan sebuah ring mampu membuat akar tumbuh datar 👍👍👍
If you crazy glue the washer to a CD you get a substantial root spread before the roots head down. Good luck. Keep growing. Thanks
Really smart.. I will definitely start doing this this spring. Thank you for the great idea!
Are you keeping the roots directly below the washer as of now because of uncertainty at present as to what you’re going to do ?
Yes, it is both because they are still providing nutrition to the tree (the washer hasn't choked them off yet) but also because I'm not set in the direction I want to go, and I don't have time at the present to go through all of them and make these decisions. I should have a week off in Early March and I'm going to try to take the time to give each tree the necessary attention to make it better.
Would chopping the roots under the washer put greater demand on the surface roots and speed the process?
If the surface roots were enough to support the tree, it should. However, and this is based on one tree and may not be accurate, I separated a tree planted through metal from its bottom roots early last year, once it had begun callousing and was just beginning to issue roots, to see what would happen. It spent the whole year in stasis and didn't grow much at all. I think you need adequate roots above to support the whole tree before you separate the bottom, or you'll sacrifice a lot of growth that year. With that being said, I think I will peek at the base of that tree in the morning and see what it looks like. If it's interesting, I'll include it in the video I'm making, probably coming out tomorrow.
Just hard to know what to do exactly. Interesting about the stall in growth. I have read an article about cutting the roots at 3” below the crown on saplings in dormancy and sticking them into pots 3” deep in well draining soul with some saplings not having any fibrous roots at all ant having roots form radially at the cut in the bottom of the pot. I haven’t tried this myself but it was a reputable source that has had years of experience. Brent Walston at evergreen garden 🪴 works has an article entitled
What's the article called? I'll check it out. My method of planting through metal and leaving it for a year has yielded very good and consistent results so far, but I'll check out the article and see what all the details are.
Why not try thick wire twisted around the trunk?
You can do this, but you're basically making an air layer. You need the wire to be thick enough that the tree wouldn't just callous over it.
We’re abts are u located? I’m after a trident maple to bonsai
I live in georgia.
The washers are too small imo. You might get better results using some CDs since their surface area is wider, the roots will grow more lateral.
protip if you want the camera to focus on a close object, put your palm up directly behind it. The camera will start to focus on your palm. tada!
I am a very amateur cameraman, I will gladly take any tips you have! Thanks!
Will you sale me one thanks sir
Send me an email at bighearts@smalltreesfarm.com with what you're looking for and I'll see what I have available.