I DISC A FIELD USING YOUTUBE TIPS! DID IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE?
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Recently we made a discing video and our viewers had a LOT to say in the comments section. So we combed through them and are trying what we can to follow the advice given to see if we get better results.
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I think that the biggest issue is like you said - I work for a Deere dealer and most property owners want one piece to do all the jobs. As you stated in the first video, a rotary tiller is the best all around option for tractors this size. To accomplish the same quality of seed bed with manual tools, it would require a bottom plow, a disk harrow like is shown here and either a small perfecta or a drag harrow. This disk - like all disks for compact tractors- is a leveling harrow which in big ag is used as a secondary tillage tool. Consumers are trying to use them for primary, secondary and seedbed prep tillage and they aren’t designed for that. I can’t tell you the amount of tillers I’ve sold when I’ve priced people the 3 tools needed to achieve the same quality of tilled soil. 3 pieces vs 1 piece is a no brainer in my opinion.
Keep up the good videos.
That's what I tried to say in the first video comments. I would argue that the tiller is a good single tool for garden tilling and seed bed preparation, at some point in time you would be better served to add a field cultivator or substitute type plow after a few seasons of tilling. I lovey tiller and would say it is the best money I have spent on garden tillage but spent far less on the all purpose plow and the bush and bog harrow I have used for the 40 previous years. I also used a layoff plow with sweeps to make the planting furrows. Good video just not the right tool for the job by itself.
Dylan has it right. I work for a Case IH dealer in the Midwest and I've been through the Case IH tillage school. In "Big Ag" a disc is not designed to be a primary tillage tool. Case IH designs their discs to be run at shallow depths (1/4 the radius of the disc blade) and their main purpose is to horizontally mix soil, chop crop residue, and size clods. "Big Ag" discs are also designed to be used at specific field speeds ... generally in the 4.5 mph to 6.5 mph range. Too fast and you throw soil too far, too slow and you don't throw soil far enough. Of course most of these concepts go out the window when you start talking utility sized implements and how people want to use them.
You really can't get awy from a primary plow to break hard ground, whether it is a moldboard or chisel style. A rotory tiller may be acceptalbe as an all purpose tool for a small garden, but unbroken ground will beat them up.
Well.... there's never a shortage of critics on these things.......Really, you are just showing a multitude of possible scenarios with all kinds of attachments so people don't have to find out the hard way, buying the wrong tool for a job.... Thanks for doing it!!! Great job presenting good info!! There are more of us who appreciate it than there are those who don't... I'm sure of that!!
Yeah, you get to see it used in all sorts of ways, that’s for sure! Thanks for watching!
i agree completely...that is why I love this channel
Your videos help save the average guy a lot of fuel, time and mistakes. I really appreciate your videos, keep them coming
@@BigDaddyAddyMS ...........Noted.............
Looking back at my youth on my father’s dairy farm the disk harrows we used were towed via drawbar. My father never had or used a 3 point hitch. Usually he would plow before discing. Our garden was another story though it was disced yearly without being plowed.
The discs you’re using look to be too light IMHO. The set we had were heavy plus depending on the soil Dad would add weight in the weight pans.
Yes. I have my grandfathers tow-behind single row disc with weight pans. Plow then disc is what I’ve “heard” for virgin ground, just disc something that was previously broken up. I plowed virgin ground this year but will probably dress the surface with the tiller for a nice seedbed instead of the disc.
I’m really not sure how all these farming legends about running a disc super fast or tilted forward or backwards come about. Obviously if you go faster you cover more ground, but it sure won’t make up the time it takes to replace bearings and broken parts. Which you’ll do much more often ping ponging across the field in your seat. As far as dragging the disc tilted really far up or down, that doesn’t even make sense. Pull it flat like the manufacturer designed it to be, and it will cut better and last longer. Especially last longer.
Watching you in the higher gears, 4th - 5th, hurt my back. Couldn't imagine very much seat time at those speeds. I appreciate you taking the time to placate all of the keyboard tractor experts even at the expense of your body and potential damage to the machinery. Most of us "non-farmers" with smaller tractors are not making our living sitting in a tractor seat 10 - 14 or more hours a day. We need our toys to help us with our small vegetable garden, food plot or making a small fire break. We are not farming 20,000 acres of soybeans.
I know you like to give the people on the other side of the internet some credence but you will NEVER make everyone happy.
Thank you for the videos!
Farmers near me "turn the field over" with a mould board bottom plow in April. Then they use the Disc to break it up around the first week of May.
what state? thats how we allways done it
That's too bad. Hopefully they'll switch over to no till. It was a hard sell around here in NW PA but quite a few are using no till principles now. Even a fella in his 70s finally made the switch. After a couple years the farmers are convinced and can't believe how much better their soil stays.
@@wolfpack4128 some soil types require tillage to be able to plant the next season but yes there are a good bit of areas that benefit from no till
@@clinteast7476 SW PA They have been planting corn and wheat this week.
Most applications that I’d use a disc for would be after the land was broke with a mold board plow. I’ve had results from disc that look just as good as a tiller. Don’t get me wrong I like a tiller better but even with a tiller I use something to bust the ground up before hand
Plow first; then disc.
Court very interesting. I'm not an expert at all... but watching my Uncle with his 8N in the 70s. The disc was really just one tool of 3 that he had to use to prepare the ground. First was the 2 bottom plow, followed by the similar size disc you have and then the harrow was the third component. His ground looked great after that process. I inherited the tractor and those implements, I am looking forward to see if I can repeat those results just for the fun of it. Through all of this you will become an expert, don't give up the fight! Thanks!
On worked up land my disk harrow works great. On soil with sod, it takes several passes.
Definitely, several or more, ha!
@@GoodWorksTractors for sure lol. On my garden i used mine doing 6 passes and then ran my pulverizer. Worked great.
I’m not telling you it’s wrong or it’s right. I’m telling you the way I was taught. To break up new ground use an actual plow with mold boards. I used a seven bottom plow. Then go back over it with a disc and a drag. May need duallys on your tractor to pull the plow but you do have four wheel drive so it may not be a problem.
Use the tiller in one pass instead of the disc and save the fuel, It cost too much!
The problem is the live sod. Discs are useless in sod. Farmers always either plow or spray before discing which kills all of the grass and weeds so the disc can do a good job. Discs just can't break up grass well.
There’s areas I disced that look very good, others that don’t. So it handled some sod spots really well.
@@GoodWorksTractors If you had plowed it first then one pass with the disk is all it takes
Your front gang turns dirt to the outside the rear turns it back to the inside to produce a smoother even surface. This harrow is not for cutting it is for finishing the seeded after the field has been plowed or turned preferably in the fall allowing the organic matter to break down. The harrow is to incorporate the plowed dirt and organic matter to produce a soil more conducive to retaining moisture and earthworms etc. It also is good for incorporating soul ammendments such as composted manure and other vegetation for a healthier better producing field. Not designed to be a do it all implement bit part of a system.
We farmed with a two row disc pulled by a 40 hp tractor when I was younger. We set the disk to pull close to level with the front gang set aggressive for cutting and the rear gang set less aggressive to level the ground. The front gang rolls the ground up and the second gang should cut the rolled land into smaller pieces by cutting at a different angle. The trick is to set the disk so the land is leveled after both gangs have done their job. If the angle of the gangs are not set correctly you will have a hill or a valley left in the bed behind your disk. To get a properly tilled bed it generally took two or three passes depending on the soil. Moisture and soil type affect this greatly. Turning with the disk down is hard on bearings. If you go to fast you will notice the disk begins to bob up and down making for a rough bed also. I prefer a tiller for small row length but a disk works better for larger blocks because you can carry a higher ground speed. I also like it better in ground that has rocks or roots because the rotor tiller jumps bad when it hits hidden objects and in my opinion it’s two slow on larger blocks. Both have a purpose. I like to use both if I was in new ground and I just wanted to sow a cover crop I would start with a disk if it was in short rows and wanted it plowed very fine for gardening I would use a tiller to me the set of the gang is more important than weight.
Breaking sod with a disc sucks. Disc works better on previously broken ground. I use a tiller. Stores easily also.
I would do the first couple passes with just the back row at about 3 miles per hour. Using just the back row you are pushing all the grass clumps into the middle and on the 3rd or 4th pass they are cloging the attachment. After 2 passes with rear row I would go both rows of harrows to finish it up. Front row throws to the outside.
I see your concerned about the price of equipment and that’s true but a used 2 or 3 bottom 14” moldboard plow is usually less than $400. A moldboard plow is almost mandatory to work sod ground unless you have an extremely heavy offset bog
I personally like the disc harrow. My complaint is that the dirt comes up in large chunks when you use it in clay soil. However, it gets down deeper than a tiller, which allows for deeper root growth in the hard, compact clay soil. Then I finish with a tiller to really break up the top 3-4 inches for planting.
Cunningham's Law states "the best way to get the right answer on the internet is not to ask a question; it's to post the wrong answer."
Love the honesty. Knowing your audience is key. You didn’t try to spin it as if everyone should run out and buy one just because you sell them. Keep it up 🇺🇸
Take the loader of the tractor before you go disking. It will lower the centre of gravity of the tractor which would make the disking more efficient: not perfect, just more efficient.
Just watching this video, justified my decision to order a tiller for my tractor yesterday. Not a lot to think about with a tiller. Great video though!
Thanks for the follow-up video! I found it very entertaining...love the commentary about the viewers giving advice. Here's my thoughts on the discs....don't waste your time. Tiller seems to be the best option for those in the compact / sub-compact market.
100% agreed!
I have a gun Chanel. One would never know there were so many special operators. I call them "Recliner Rangers" thanks for your videos. I watch all the time
Plowing then discing is old school farming. I have several “big” full time farmers around me and 95% do no till planting. The thinking is to keep the nutrients in the ground and not exposing them to the sun and weather. Thus avoiding the sand bowl effects of days gone by. No-till planting and crop rotation is the way farmers around me farm now. Oh and arm chair quarterbacks are normally the biggest complainer’s.
I bought a no till for my food plots. Planted brassicas then winter rye. Both did amazingly just drilling seed after spraying twice. The local farmer that plants corn for me uses a drill now too. He wasn't sure the rocky ground would do much because it never produced well back when he used to leave the soil exposed from October to May. There was more than the deer could eat on 5 acres and he harvested the rest in April. No till is much less work but so much better for the soil.
Back row slightly higher than the front; many, many passes....
Haha that takes too long!
Proper disc harrow set up is you want the back set about an inch or two below the front set on level ground or pad. The spacing between the blades ,7 or 9 inches, will tell you if it is a digging disc or leveling disc, the way it was pulling that engine down, I would say that is a good disc for what it is made to do, good job
The adjustments on the disc are meant to be used Make your first couple passes and the most aggressive setting and then adjust it to a less aggressive setting and run over the ground again. In the most aggressive setting it is designed to dig and pull up big chunks then when you readjust to a less aggressive setting you break up those bigger chunks into smaller pieces. However I still agree in a non-farming situation a tiller is better a tiller will work the ground deeper than a disc ever could and you have a nicer seed bed
Yeah I tried that the first time around (a few weeks ago).
Great job. You definitely sold me on the tiller. The cultivator works best on soil that’s already worked over as you showed at the end. Love these experimental videos. Keep them coming.
You are going way to fast I’ve been doing it 18 yrs. Slow it down do better.
I went slow last time and you guys all said to go faster, haha!
Could it be the disc angle is too aggressive for the higher speeds? Thinking about how the dirt throws off the discs and how they dig in, I can visualize how it would be a problem. Maybe even set the rear discs to one less aggressive step than the front discs?
You’re right the ground here got super hard like concrete my 8000 pound disc wouldn’t even barely go in the ground I had ground so hard I literally had to wait for the last rain to come to soften the soil up so that I could disc properly. They cut the best when they’re evenly balanced between front and back it is called tuning the disc we have to do it on our big wing desk
Crazy how quick it changes!
Great video! A fun comparison would be a pull-type 8' disc versus a 6' or 7' 3PH mounted unit.
I think this is awesome, get out and have a go! I also think the next video should be with a Dirt Dog Rep showing you how the tool should be used.
Also, do you have access to a power harrow?
So i've never used a disc, but have considered getting an older one to mess with. I'd say this is a highly informative video for someone in my position!
I think the primary takeaway is if you don't have a power top link, prepare to suffer! After that, next question might be can your tractor even pick up a disc that's heavy enough to break into your ground? Seems like if you pull too light of a disc on unbroken ground you will accomplish next to nothing, requiring another even slower-functioning implement to 'prep' that land for discing. Not interested..
I think what you maybe could have done in the beginning of this video (again, having never used a disc) is set one row closer to straight when you are using just one row to 'break' the ground on initial pass. I think the steep angle of the discs is counterproductive when you are trying to cut into the ground. So tilt it, put all the weight on one row, AND make that row close to straight? Then on followup passes more angle to turn/churn the ground. Just a thought. I'm right there with you on lack of disc experience so take it for what it's worth!!
I understand this is not a farming channel but bringing some farming to this channel a disc is not a primary tillage tool It is a secondary tillage tool. Normally you would use a mole board plow or chisel plow as your primary tillage and then run it over with a disc after. Just a disc alone does not prepare the ground well enough for planting. I personally use a plow and a disc because it's what I have but I would rather have a tiller as it works the ground up better.
Too many tools needed, haha! Weird thing is that the disc did a great job in some spots, but horrible job in others. So, it has the capability, but I think these small discs lack the weight.
@@GoodWorksTractors I agree but in the farming world there is not one implement for each task unfortunately. However for the small landowner or gardener I agree with you a tiller is better you pay more for a tiller but I think you'd get your money back over time.
a disc can absolutely be a primary tillage tool. An offset or other heavy disc in corn stubble on sandy loam ground will do primary tillage
@@johnd4018 yes a offset disc can be but not a regular disc in Michigan clay ground. I also agree in sandy loam soil a disc will work fine. Sorry I was mostly referring to clay ground.
@@simpleman4196 agreed
I was taught to plow ,disc ,then harrow to get the field ready for planting ! This was before tillers were invented ! But loved your video, showing all the issues, possibilities etc...
Try 55drum in middle
There! You finally figured it out. The last clip showed what a disc is for!! As a former farmer, a disc is definitly not a sod buster. It is meant for a secondary tillage tool, or a primary one in an already worked plot (like next year). Keep trying and learning🙂
Haha, it's not me that needs to figure it out. It's all of the customers who want to use it for their only tillage tool. That's who I'm making the videos for :)
I recall having to rig up concrete blocks on our disc growing up to get any kind of function out of it. Watching the video, I was waffling between laughing and grimacing. I’d buy a tiller if I needed something like that for sure.
You'll never get a better, more even till than with flat and level. This is why so many of us wind up strapping on additional weight, even if the disc wasn't designed for it. I've used old railroad ties, racks of cinder blocks, etc.
Disclaimer: I don't know diddly squat. But it looks to me like the aggressive angle is great when starting out, but after the land is broke, the rear gang should have a lesser angle to help smooth everything.
I appreciate the view you took with this video. Just giving everyone good information. Yes, a tiller seems to do a nice job make the dirt very fine, but I continue to think about a disc such as you were using and I am glad to seem the comparisons.
The aggresive angle you started out with on the back seemed to break up the soil. Like another gentleman said using a mold board plow would probably make it a little easier. It appeared that once you had it broken up initially l, then putting the disc more level did a better job on the second/third time through to “till” it up.
Nice job. Thank you for the video!!!!
Courtney ... I love the RT207 you sold me, that does more work and much more versatility than any tool I have. I use it to loosen up hard dirt most of the time or ground prep when I have to put in a clean driveway. Excellent tool for any clean dirt work.
Courtney I changed methods this year, I first used a field cultivator or digger, then the tiller. I was impressed with the results. The digger loosened the soil and keeps the fibers in tacked the disc and tiller cut the fibers up allowing the soil to erode easier
As for speed, 3.5-6 is pretty average. The disk was stopping your tractor because you were burying the axle. You also kept complaining about how rough a ride it was. That was due, in a large part, to you riding across the rows.
A field like you're disking would need to be cut, in my estimation, three times ... with the rows, perpendicular or diagonal to the rows, and finishing with the rows.
All of this will come with experience.
Lapping over 1/2 way helps cut, called double cutting.
Yeah I did that later in the video.
Tillers pound and compact the soil under the tilling. I would think the disc doesn't. Time consuming but a better finish product with multiple passes with the disc.
LOL, when you stomped your foot on the dry ground at the beginning, the only thing I could see was Marissa torme stomping her foot in My Cousin Vinny saying her biological clock was ticking.
Just add some weight and gear down or you're going to burn that tractor up.
A disk is also a compaction tool when used multiple passes on the same path. It creates a plow sole layer at operating depth which becomes shallower the more passes made. Multiple function tool for anyone.
A tiller is not an option for me because of rocks. A 3 point disc is not going to be heavy enough and you'll often seen folks adding weight to them that they are not designed to carry. With the tractor you are running I'd get an 8 foot pull behind disc. It will probably be 60% - 70% heavier, if not more, than that 3 point. It will do a much better job for you. Disc with a pull behind and then follow it with a broadcast seeder hooked to your 3 point while at the same time dragging a heavy duty chain harrow off your pull bar and you'll be a food plottin' machine.
The disk is not made for primary tillage. That being said if you can only afford 1 tool it’s the one to have. If your willing to make several passes, adjust the gang aggressiveness and your patient it does an awesome job.
That is a tandem disc, more for finish work on plowed ground. You need an offset disc for what you are trying to do. I would not fool with disc not level, you will leave ridges. With multiple passes you may get good results.
looks to way to light to do much but a couple of big Rail road ties bolted together with a about 2-3 peaces of 1/4in steal bars /angle iron being pulld behind it would help a lot i would about bet !..we always called it a drag an almost always drug one behind ours growing up ! an it helps a lot to bust up klots to ! !looks like it could use a good deep turning plough first the harrow the crap out of it after 2-3 days! just a thought/idea ...but i dono what your trying to get done i just know what it looks like on yt !
I had a really good description on what this guy was doing and RUclips apparently didn't leave it in
Always level disc if not just making ridges and furrows. Disc sod maybe twice leave sit for a week so sod can die then disc again . Love my tiller quick results except with rocky ground i use a disc
I would like to see a rerun of the disc but add weight evenly. I use old railroad track welded to disc frame. I normally disc twice sometimes three time but I have Sandy loom soil.
I would like to see you do this on the same plot using an offset disc pulled at 5-7mph
I'm in the middle of this I use a rotator in my garden. Plow and disc the small felds I hobby farm there to big for the tiller but a good size for the 8n equipment that I have.
Turning plow, then disc level in soft ground or just a "little tail down" in hard ground. the disc goes along with a plow. I plow fields for crops not food plots. had a tiller and there just entirely too slow for big fields. but i see were for food plots and small gardens it would be better.
Not say your doing it Wrong but the way my grandpa showed me was when breaking grass into dirt with a disk all you do first pass is cut and a flip (better when wet) leave it for 10 day to kill the grass then hit again dry is better for second pass (to knock the dirt out of roots to dry)and keep doing that the hard part is killing the grass if you spray the grass and let it sit for a mouth or two one pass with a disk it will look tilled. it was always all summer breaking grass, Not every day but turning it to get the roots and grass to break down.
Well I can already see the problem... you've got an orange pulling a piece of farming equipment.
Your not doing anything wrong, you just some weight on the disk, I added two 100 pound tractor weights to my old disk years ago, it does just fine
You get your first pass done then overlap a half . This will put the disk half in first pass and half new and will make this easier . Then cross pass and also do diagonal passes. The more you work it the better it will get
tillers/rotavators ruin the soil ,create a pan, destroy any structure and water holding ,long gone out of use in agriculture for tilling in uk,one pass with a tiller may be dramatic but a plough and power harrow or discs etc will create far better tilth
Just do one pass and wait a week to 10 days to let grass die and then work it again . It will plug up because the grass is dead. This is just a thought. Good luck and have a good day.
We have the same problem at our hunting lease to resolve the issue we make a pass then half cut every remaining cut this process break the ground same depot all across the cut
If you want just one tool tillage for food plot, hobby farm, small acreage go with a rotadairon. Note, it will cost you.
for me.. farmer here..... i use subsoil tool first then use disk for level ground for seeding.
The commentary and 70s porn music made this video great. Keep up the good work!
Slow down and lower the front of the disc just a little!!!! You to fast and dragging dirt
How fast are they running???? Slow Down!!!!
What is the HP of that tractor? You can't read the model number with the front loader on the tractor.
Best thing I ever did was ditch my old worn out 3 pt disc and buy a tiller for my tractor
It will surprise you how much a rail road tie weigh when tie on disk house
A rotodarian tiller will some how prossess by tilling in reverse
I like a manual center link the hydraulic sometimes leaks down
I think you pay to much attention to the keyboard warriors. Discs are not ideal on grass but will get the job done with enough passes. The disc clearly worked better flat as its designed to do. In bare soil the gangs are designed to counteract each other so your ground stays even. If you can't afford a lot of tools, you have to use what you got. Keep up the good work brother, and don't pay no nevermind to the haters! Us little guys appreciate you!
wrong tool for the job A quack digger or plow would work better then disk and harrow
I have found it is easier to disc when the ground is damp.
I bought a disc instead of a tiller. Price was the reason and it was a used disc. Paid $900. It does ok. After seeing your tilling video I’m wishing I had went that route. I do only have a 25 horse tractor. L2501. So I can’t go fast at all. In fact I’m in low and 4 wheel drive with the diff locked sometimes. In wet soil it clumps on the disc and I have to get a bar to free the disc. Thanks for the videos. Let’s do it again with a little tractor. One tool. Funny video.
Good stuff Jade, I’ve got a small disc out there for the 1025r!
Biggest problem is you have the wrong color tractor. Lol
I am no professional myself in my experience a disc is best used after a plow or used where there isn’t any sod. However you do it though the important thing above anything is you get seat time.
Probably so, but I don’t want two tools! That gets expensive for hobby guys like most of us watching 😂
I preferred a plow and then use my tiller
You do a great job with the information you give sure there is a better way to do the job but the key is to do it with the equipment you have and have fun with it most of us tractor owners look for a good reason to play with the tractor its not about high production have a great day be safe.
I appreciate it!
I just want that Hydraulic top link...
Why on earth are you tilling. It's the huge waste of time. All the big farms are moving away from tilling and discing and going to no-till.
Because I’m not of this earth, I’m out of the world baby!
@@GoodWorksTractors Ok. but if you want to destroy your soil structure go ahead. Maybe call the extension service for some advice.
@@DuaneKerzic how about you go above me and plead your case to all of the rototiller manufacturers instead. I’m just one guy with a tiller. They sell thousands of them!
only about 20% of corn acreage in the US is no-till
@@GoodWorksTractors now why did you delete my reply? Very dishonest!
we always plowed first before using the disc
The greater the angle the grater the cut and possible depth will increase. the straight is for leaving once cut depth.
Agreed and that’s what I was doing. Thanks for watching!
Howdy, wow that was brutal to watch. I'm no expert and only have 6 years tractoring experience but I only use a disc and chisel plow for cultivating. We grow vegetables on about 7 acres and do grow plots. I'm running a 50HP tractor pulling a 6 foot 20 inch, 20 disc cultivator. If you don't want that Bad Boy disc i'll take it. Anyways, lack of weight is not your issue. Technique is the issue. the dish and angle of the disk "pulls" it into the soil. I was told by an old timer the disc is a rotating plow. always disk back and forth and the second pass needs to just off center from the first pass. Balance, gotta keep it level and have patience. In hard ground it might take some extra passes but the nice thing about the disc is it doesn't pulverize your soil. Which I believe is better for the soil especially in our case of growing two to three crops a year on the same plot. Like your videos but this one was hard to watch, hehe.
I probably tried 15-20 combinations of angles, speed, etc. There is no improving the results. I may not be a farmer, but I’m also not an idiot, haha. I can figure out how to make something work if there is a way. For the record, I’ve used a disc many times over the years and it’s the same thing every time. Thanks for watching!
If ground is hard I plow then disk
I use a harrow behind my disk
To fast , need weight on disc.
First thing is I have a 60hp Kubota tractor and I love it but here in south Carolina you don't see Kubota tractors plowing in fields. John Deere,Case,some new Hollands. I'm not a farmer. I just use mine for loader work and land plane. If I were like you with abundant attachments on a new ground I would use a what ii call a row buster plow. Not sure proper name but kinda like the plow the forestry guys pull behind the dozers to cut fire breaks. Or a ripper with two or three rippers. Easier to bust new ground up first and then use the discs. if I purchased a decent discs I'd like to be able to add weight of some sort.
I have both a disk and a tiller. Tiller is great where there aren't rocks. BUT, I have some really big boulders under some of my ground. So in those cases, I like the disk.
Late to the party here. Good video. I guess if I had dirt like yours, I could see skipping the plow/disc and opting for a tiller.
Standing offer: you drive one of those McNasty new Rhino tillers up to me, and if it handles my hill & all the rocks that come with it, I’ll buy it on the spot.
If I were going to disc that, I would spray and burn it off before hand. However, I’ve stopped discing all together. I plant my fall plots(broadcast/top sow) in mid to late September. I plant then bushhog over it. I’ll hit it with some nitrogen the first of December for alittle boost just before our rut. I won’t touch it again until September. I find that the growth in the plots offers alot of natural browse, as well as, nesting and brooding rearing/fawning cover. Works very well for me and I don’t lose my moisture because I’ve disc my soil up.
Dairy farmer, cash cropper and equipment dealer writing.
You have what is called a tandem disc or finishing disc, despite the notched blades it is not meant for breaking sod. Yes, when conditions are just right you may have limited success, but odds are you are compacting the soil severely with the amount of passes it takes. The soul on too may seem fluffy, but a plow pan has likely developed from the shearing effect of the disc.
Finishing disc are meant to be run level front to back.
An off-set disc can be used to break sod, if conditions permit. The ground is wet enough but not too wet. An off set disc has one gang in front and one in back at opposite angles to one another. Again an off set disc can cause compaction and a plow pan.
Sod if alive is best plowed with a mouldboard plow.
If it’s sprayed off, a chisel plow is a viable option.
Vertical tillage tools are not meant to work sod.
The best options for the inexperienced are as you’ve concluded a rototiller. Or there are some no-til food plot seeders available that won’t require working the soil.
That disc is meant for finishing behind a plow.
I think sower is better.
I’m just compact tractor owner with 50 H/P I only have 22A farm and garden approximately 1/2 A.