EZ rocket nozzle for a 1" PVC sugar rocket motor.
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Today I show you how to make a simple nozzle for a 1" PVC motor that I call the EZ nozzle. It's quick to assemble and will be ready for testing the same day.
Always keep a safe distance away from any rocket motor test.
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Concrete nozzle from a 3D printed form.
• PVC rocket nozzle from...
Just what I wanted to see. That rocket motor is the best I've seen so far.
For easier fitting of the two sizes of PVC freeze the smaller piece and heat the larger. Freezing will shrink the PVC several tenths while heating will expand PVC approximately the same amount.
I love your videos. Interesting, educational, inspireing and funny at the same time.
Glad you like them. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this! This nozzle is very easy to build and functions superbly. I'm using it in my 1" G class KNSO fueled rockets with great success. I also modified it slightly to make a very reliable delay grain enclosure. With the other methods I used I was having issues with the nozzle or top enclosure failing quite a bit. This one is much, much, more reliable and consistent.
I would like to know more about your delay grain setup. Are you using the standard 65/35 fuel for the delay and what is the web thickness vs delay time? I would appreciate any other details.
Thanks for your comment!
@@TheRocketeerI had a brief time out (well, I guess a year is brief) from motor building but am back into it now. I am building 1" PVC motors with 1.5" BATES grains (the 2 grain is F class, the 3 grain G class). I use 65/35 fuel for the delay grain usually about 1/2 inch and inhibited. I put a washer (same size as the nozzle washer, 3/6 (nominal) RTV'd in between the propellant grain and the delay grain. My issue in the past was having the hot gasses get past the delay grain and ignite the ejection charge prematurely; the RTV'd washer seems to fix this. The whole enclosure resembles your 1" easy rocket nozzle (which is awsome, BTW) in reverse with delay grain being inserted last in the top of the motor.
I was perhaps a bit hyperbolic when I said "very reliable delay grain". I built two, both worked fine but I need to dial in the timing better.
I'm definitely a newb and your videos are the main reason I am consistently making reliable motors.
I've been using Sorbitol, but am going back to to sucrose because it so much more powerful.
I've got two sucrose based motors ready to test and next I am going to try your flexi-fuel formula. I like the fact that it seems to be pourable (which straight KNSU definitely is not!).
You've got a great site with lots of solid information. I've gone through Nakka, Jacob Rocketry and Jimmy Yawn's sites also. They are excellent, of course, but you are easier to follow. There are quite a few idiots out there posing as experts -- which I guess is not all bad -- that's how I first got interested in this hobby after an absence of 50 (yes, fifty) years.
Sorry for the long post. When I get the flexifuel going with a reliable delay grain, I'll get back to you!
Best...
That is a great idea Mason! I will make a note of your delay grain idea.
I think you are going to really like flexi-fuel for 1" PVC motors. It burns faster than sorbitol and is easy to make and cast.
Thanks for your encouraging comments! Every spring I evaluate if I want to invest the time to make more videos. It is post like yours that keep me going.@@masoncolbert8285
Thanks for sharing I made a rocket motor from 2in PVC using this method still need some tweaking as a rocket exploded shortly after lunch instead of using steel washers I just drilled out some wood due to the bigger diameter but I'm going to try again.
Only steel will survive that hot erosive environment. You may want to start with the 1" motor first. Work your way up as you build skills and knowledge.
@@TheRocketeercatlitter powder? For my 2 inch rocket motor
It seems cool!
I've used "Durhams water putty" with great success.
Good to know, thanks!
Bom, com o pouco de inglês que sei consigo entender bem, aqui no meu país não há literatura sobre isso, todos aqui são bem leigos e desinformados sobre ciência, obrigado por compartilhar, parabéns pelo vídeo e seja grato pelo seu país ser instruído de dentro pra fora! Deus abençoe os estados Unidos !
Obrigado por seus comentários!
Google Translate.
Very good, great.
Thanks!
@@TheRocketeer
I'm not 100% sure
but here are my thoughts on rocket fuel.
this is a good mixture, but some sources indicate that it is bad to add a lot of aluminum.
aluminum when burned gives a high temperature, and magnesium even higher, but they do not form a large amount of gases, which is so necessary, because when they burn, they form oxides, we know that aluminum oxide is refractory.
The binder also burns like fuel, but it does not burn very well.
And ammonium perchlorate in our country is expensive.
Approximately $15 per kilo, but potassium nitrate is only $2 per kilo.
Rocket chemistry literature indicates that binder can be reduced by up to 9%.
So 10% should be enough.
In the end, you can do this.
Mix fine powders of magnesium or aluminum 5%, charcoal 2-5% and the rest is potassium nitrate and powdered sugar, then we dissolve the bitumen in petroleum ether, or hexane, there should not be a lot of solvent, the bitumen mixture should look like a flowing sauce, not liquid , but not very thick, you can try to add a little paraffin, the result is a mixture similar to a cement solution, it is very convenient to work with and it is cheap, if the components are not added correctly, then it can be balanced at any time by adding a little hexane and any component .
It is pleasant to work with such a mixture, it is mobile and plastic like cement, and the price is not high.
The mix is forgiving, and hexane can be added to the hardened mix and any component can be adjusted.
You can use gasoline as a solvent, but gasoline has a higher boiling point and is therefore more difficult to remove, hexane, or petroleum ether, is best.
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how to check mixture
we take a small piece of foil, put on it a small sample of the prepared mixture of 0.15-0.25 grams and set it on fire, if the mixture sprays small white drops of saltpeter, then any fuel must be added.
If it doesn't form well, add some more bitumen in hexane, the solvent-removed mixture should stick together when you squeeze a small piece with your fingers, the amount of bitumen can be increased up to 15%, but more is not desirable, since the bitumen turns into a liquid state and your fuel before igniting with an excess of binder, it will simply melt without igniting.
You can also use PIB, epoxy, silicone sealant and other types of raw rubber.
Another substance that promises to be very convenient is polymorphus (polycaprolactone), very good properties, low-melting thermoplastic, just what you need, ether, we immediately recall the solubility and flammability.
Well, for example, nitrocellulose dissolves in ethers, that is, there is hope for the cosolubility of such substances in alcohols and ethers, which together gives very good hopes for the possibilities of this substance, because all this is often soluble in acetone, like many other things, that is it's a huge range of different interesting compounds.
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I also believe that up to 10% nitro derivatives can be added to bituminous, silicone, or other similar fuels.
sorbitol can be fused with the addition of 10% ETN, and nitrocellulose is a separate issue, earlier plastics were made on its basis, I think all this can be used if available, including such plastic itself (it is soluble in solvents, for example, in acetone).
There are a lot of different materials that will make a powerful rocket fuel. The key is to find a combination of materials that are easy to make and obtain along with stability and low toxicity.
Hexane makes a great solvent but can be toxic and needs to be handled by a professional. Like gasoline, hexane is highly volatile and is an explosion risk. Magnesium even in low concentrations burns violently and has the potential to react with strong oxidisers. You can find some experiments with sugar fuel mixed with magnesium and aluminum on my site.
I think there may be a good potential for magnalium at 5 - 10% in a sorbitol mix. I hope to do some testing this summer with this combination.
You may have the skills and experience to mix the suggested materials but I would not advise others to do so.
Thanks for your comment!!
@@TheRocketeer
Thanks a lot.
looking forward to your next work.
@@TheRocketeer
what is the name of your site?
Genius
Thanks, it's easy too!
nice
Great video, but where do i get the PVC pipes from? I have no idea, and it seems amazon doesnt have them. This is a big problem for me, considering its obviously required for the motor...Could you link me to some, if you could?
PVC pipe comes in 10' sections so that is probably the reason why Amazon does not sell it. 1" PVC pipe can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards or most hardware stores. At this time it is less than $10 for a 10' length!
Go to my home page and click on the "About" tab. You can find my email address there if you need help. Good luck!
It's awesome
Thanks for the comment!
Great video. Is it possible to add a divergent nozzle using the same epoxy clay?
The epoxy clay will not hold up to the heat. If you would like a divergent then take a look at other videos I have made using concrete.
Hey, nice video! isn't concrete too heavy?
After the convergent and divergent are formed there is not that much concrete. I am working on an all new nozzle tutorial, check back soon. Thanks for your comment!
I used your method with a washer and JB weld steel stick. After a few burn tests, it seems that the plume burnt the nozzle out and widened the hole quite a bit. IS this something you have come across? is there something i could use instead of JB weld that may be better?
Use two washers minimum or try 3 to prevent the nozzle erosion. If you are still having problems then try a different brand of washer.
The main purpose of the epoxy clay (JB Weld) is to prevent the washers from becoming super heated and melting through the case. The ablation helps preserve the nozzle and is normal.
The advantage to the EZ nozzle is it is simple to make. If you would like to try a concrete nozzle then please check out this video.
ruclips.net/video/9AB4308IY68/видео.html
Try a graphite nozzle. It requires some very minor machining of soft graphite rods, but it's a great nozzle material to use
No divergence?
Nope, none. I do have a tutorial on a nozzle with a divergent if that is more your style.
Nozzle size should be 1/4 diameter of the engine diameter minimum!
mini motors size of ur thumb
inspired by my design?
I don't know what design you are referring to. I am not aware of anyone using a two part epoxy putty in a PVC rocket nozzle with a PVC retainer.
I'm using aluminum for one test and macor for the other
Macor obviously being much more expensive to have made but takes a lot of heat