The foundation is the KEY to printing the most detailed multicolored prints

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  • Опубликовано: 15 дек 2024
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Комментарии • 72

  • @tbkMAKER
    @tbkMAKER День назад +32

    Extremely excited I was able to provide some assistance in getting your 0.2 nozzle prints looking extra clean. If anyone else needs help, don't hesitate to reach out!!

    • @aeonjoey3d
      @aeonjoey3d День назад

      Respect to you for this technique! 🫡

  • @S.A.S.H.
    @S.A.S.H. 2 дня назад +22

    Really like that you give credit where credit is due.

  • @Chris-14all
    @Chris-14all 2 дня назад +5

    I am always amazed what topics you present and how detailed you analyze and solve the problems you found!
    It is always a pleasure to look into your content 👍🏼

  • @roundcheesewheel
    @roundcheesewheel 2 дня назад +9

    Fiber Laser not recommended for taking away material. You could mark filaments with fiber laser or UV laser but engraving/taking away material will just melt the plastic.

  • @SirSpence99
    @SirSpence99 День назад +2

    A trick I have found to "boost" print speed with smaller nozzles is to increase extrusion width for any layers I don't need the precision. I was able to (a long time ago, I haven't needed a smaller nozzle for awhile) print at 8 cubic mm/s using a stock v6 hotend which is faster than the draft settings a prusa mk3 uses. I was printing at line widths of 1.2mm for the inner walls and infill, so I only had two walls and the quality was fantastic. The other thing I highly recommend is printing at 75% of your nozzle size for your first layer height. I do that now for all nozzles and it makes the quality much much better and more consistent.

  • @mtrezaie
    @mtrezaie 2 дня назад +21

    Why didn’t you print your channel name out something of yours rather than a company brand? Anyhow thanks for your awesome videos.

  • @thenextlayer
    @thenextlayer День назад +11

    Your first mistake was printing my arch nemesis... PETG. Blech! Stick to ABS and get styrene poisoning like a REAL die-hard ;)

  • @kaasmeester5903
    @kaasmeester5903 День назад +1

    Good tips… but I’ve done away with messy glue sticks. I use adhesion spray (basically hair spray) and never looked back: great adhesion on a heated plate, but pops right off when the plate cools. Especially good for PETG.
    I agree on the slowness of the 0.2 nozzle. I print mostly structural parts, and might add some inlayed text. Comes out great (I run a Prusa Mk4s), but takes forever. For these kind of prints I would love a multi toolhead machine. Maybe one day 😊

  • @bowieinc
    @bowieinc День назад +3

    Learning the idea of same type of material sacrificial layer was worth the watch! I have added to my tool belt for the future:)

  • @artemyevtushenko8722
    @artemyevtushenko8722 2 дня назад +5

    Another tip I got recent on Reddit is to change the color to print the black in this case first and then fill in the white.

    • @aeonjoey3d
      @aeonjoey3d День назад

      This is what I would have done first, but I’ve never printed PETG in 0.2mm before so I’ll have to try both and compare now!

    • @aeonjoey3d
      @aeonjoey3d День назад

      *now= whenever my X1Cs have a free few hours between production and whatever random thing I’m printing for funzies lol

  • @ClaytonMacleod
    @ClaytonMacleod 20 часов назад +2

    Interesting. I’ve never had any issues with any of my 0.2 mm nozzle prints. I wonder why you did.

    • @dekinhow
      @dekinhow 8 часов назад

      I was asking myself the same thing.
      My 20mm tokens with detailed icons prints just perfectly on any bed.

  • @klaidasrunele
    @klaidasrunele День назад

    Things like this is why we need more specific filament profiles within bambu slicer

  • @beermanuk
    @beermanuk День назад +1

    Surprised to see a video on problems with a 0.2 nozzle. I've printed some really small text on the A1 and A1 mini with a 0.2 with no issue on the standard build plate and a carbon effect one.

  • @802Garage
    @802Garage День назад

    Dang that final product was nice!

  • @TinTalon
    @TinTalon День назад

    WOW. Lots to take in on this video. I am going to try some of these settings as well. Thanks and great video.

  • @jaredho7676
    @jaredho7676 День назад +1

    What tool is that at 6:03 for removing the print?

  • @802Garage
    @802Garage День назад

    Slice gap closing radius and Resolution also heavily affect how detailed you can go in my experience! When I was trying to print bearings with 0.02mm and 0.01mm tolerance on my Plus4, I had to adjust those lower to not have the print fuse in the slicer due to the gaps being too small.

  • @OmegaGamingNetwork
    @OmegaGamingNetwork 14 часов назад

    Rafts are one of the things I found bambu's support for PLA filament to be super useful for. It works equally well on PLA and PETG. You don't need to create an object, just set to 1 raft layer and then specify support for PLA as both your Support/Raft base and Support/raft interface. I generally try to avoid printing .2, but whenever I do that works very well and it removes extremely easily.
    On another note, I've looked at that extruder upgrade but having to lubricate it makes me uneasy. The risk of oil/grease being that close to my filament bothers me. I might be worrying too much, look forward to hearing any updates on that.

  • @aeonjoey3d
    @aeonjoey3d День назад

    I’m gobsmacked. I was screaming at my phone lol 😂 but it turned out … an option. I would never have fathomed such a solution, quite the creative method that seems so outlandish for those of us who don’t sand and paint our prints, but at the same time so DUH that would work! Sacrificial layer indeed! I can’t help but feel there’s gotta be a more direct way but yes, as you stated - PLA does this easily, PETG not so much. Thanks for the EYE and MIND opening technique!!!!!!!!

  • @partsdave8943
    @partsdave8943 День назад +1

    You should reach out to Practical print Friday. He has just been testing his fiber laser on different filaments.

  • @davidbell304
    @davidbell304 День назад

    It pays to do some housework while it's swapping colour on the first layer - use a toothbrush and tweezers to make sure everything is neat and tidy before the second colour starts. The order that you print the text & background matters, I find printing the dark colour first is usually but not always better. Finally, acetone smoothed ABS makes really nice text.

  • @Jindraxx20
    @Jindraxx20 День назад

    Thank you for the content friend !!!

  • @odditythreeD
    @odditythreeD День назад

    Hi,
    What is that blue insert in the tool head of your X1C? (visible a 1m30s)

  • @Maleko48
    @Maleko48 2 дня назад +1

    love it, thanks for the ideas :)

  • @michaelbraaten
    @michaelbraaten 2 дня назад +1

    In Bambu/Orca, it is set such that objects automatically snap to the plate for me.... how do I disable that and where is the drop command? I couldn't find answers on the Bambu Wiki 😕

    • @Duevel
      @Duevel 2 дня назад

      In OrcaSlicer only parts can fly. Test it: add a object to your build plate, right click on it, choose "add part" and select your object you don't want to snap to the ground.

    • @aeonjoey3d
      @aeonjoey3d День назад

      In Bambu studio, you just assemble (group) any additional item, and then you can move an item’s z axis up

    • @aeonjoey3d
      @aeonjoey3d День назад

      @@Duevel(in Bambu you just assemble first and then you can move z axis)

    • @Duevel
      @Duevel День назад

      @@aeonjoey3d Same as in orca

  • @imho_FpV
    @imho_FpV 19 часов назад

    Thank you for the audio tracks in Spanish

  • @lroyson
    @lroyson День назад

    Good info.

  • @DenysChura
    @DenysChura 2 дня назад +1

    Looks like it may work without filing with natural color PETG as first layer, it should be pretty transparent

  • @marcoantoniazzi1890
    @marcoantoniazzi1890 День назад

    What about using PVA as 1st layer?

  • @Numenor7
    @Numenor7 День назад

    So what's the secret? Ironing?
    Did you try putting a 0.2mm spacing between the sacrificial plate and the first layer?

  • @paulb36utube
    @paulb36utube 2 дня назад

    Did you try the Bambu Filament support for pla/petg?

    • @aeonjoey3d
      @aeonjoey3d День назад

      I did this to print coins and board game pieces with detailed faces and boy howdy was it nearly impossible to remove but did work, I’d recommend the water soluble PVA before the new PETG+PLA stuff though, it’s really gummy.

  • @Roobotics
    @Roobotics День назад

    I wonder of you could print on a TPU raft and peel it away afterwards.

  • @FrodeBergetonNilsen
    @FrodeBergetonNilsen День назад

    Thanks

  • @imarobobot8795
    @imarobobot8795 2 дня назад

    Very helpful, thank you

  • @user-yx4bk8by9d
    @user-yx4bk8by9d День назад

    У вас есть фотополимерный принтер, проще на нем всю мелочь напечатать и вклеить😁👍

  • @TheFishTankChannel
    @TheFishTankChannel День назад

    Why not use Bambu pet-G transparent clear for that base layer. it is very clear at 0.1 layers.

  • @tonyoslund5700
    @tonyoslund5700 День назад

    Would think using clear petg for first layer would be much simpler, but interesting technique.

  • @TheFotoGuys
    @TheFotoGuys День назад

    I haven’t had any problems printing with a 0.2mm nozzle. No matter if bambu filament or thirdparty..

  • @joseluishernandez8946
    @joseluishernandez8946 2 дня назад

    have you use a aftermarket nozzle and change it to 0.3 intead of 2? some change in the setting but it would work fine

  • @ZaxMan3D
    @ZaxMan3D День назад

    im the lazy kind of person, so i would have gone with a the clear transparent PETG for the front :)

  • @Splarkszter
    @Splarkszter 2 дня назад

    Modify the printer to be a plotter with fine paint markers

    • @Splarkszter
      @Splarkszter 2 дня назад

      You can try with Pentel MFP10 Paint Marker

  • @michaelbraaten
    @michaelbraaten 2 дня назад

    For that sacrificial first layer, what about using PLA but with PETG HF? The HF has some PLA or PLA-like additive to it, which I think iss why they now offer Support for PLA/PETG combined.

  • @IBUILTTHAT
    @IBUILTTHAT День назад

    The issue with Bambu lab Printers printing text is that they always print the text first, you cannot choose the order. All other designs work better with printing the outline first, then the text as you can extrude the finer details into the open areas like a plastic injection mold. Bambu still has yet to allow anyone to change the order in which colors are printed which is standard on almost every other slicer.
    You can "trick" the slicer into printing the text second by having a large two-layer object (larger than the surface area of the outline) on the print the same color as the text. This wastes filament, but it's the only way to make it work. Bambu Labs really doesn't care about text quality currently.

    • @Roobotics
      @Roobotics День назад +1

      You don't need to 'trick' anything, click the bolt icon beside the build plate, drag the color orders around. It took me forever to realize this.

    • @IBUILTTHAT
      @IBUILTTHAT День назад

      @@Roobotics Unfortunately that doesn't work for the first layer.

  • @dougingraham5807
    @dougingraham5807 День назад

    I have the opposite issue when using PETG. I have a high temp smooth plate with a destroyed side because PETG sticks too well to it.
    Turning up the bed temp makes it stick even better. At 80-90C the PEI surface will clearly show scarring from the parts if you can remove them at all.
    Cleaning with IPA makes it stick poorly because it just smears the finger oils around and removes very little of it. I like Dawn Power Wash rubbed with a fresh paper towel and then a hot water rinse. Dry with another fresh paper towel. Don't touch the plate with your fingers. The high temp smooth plate really shows finger grease. IPA (at least the 90% stuff) also seems to soften the surface of the PEI making it tacky for a time. This probably isn't good for the surface.
    Did you consider using clear PETG for your first layer or even all the light transmittal portion of the print? It would be brighter and give a nice diffused appearance.

  • @beepboop8184
    @beepboop8184 3 часа назад

    I see a bl logo - I put a dislike, then also go another step to mark as "Not interested -> I don't like the video" and "Don't recommend the channel".
    bl shills are everywhere, ffs.

  • @MotFPS
    @MotFPS День назад

    Why do people call PETG "Pet-g"? We say P-L-A, we say A-B-S, so why are so many people saying Pet-G vs P-E-T-G?
    Personally, I think there's british and australian youtubers that are the go-to sources on printing and their regional dialect has caused confusion.
    It's P-E-T-G...thank you for attending my Ted Talk.

    • @Hudston
      @Hudston День назад

      Everyone loves a good three letter abbreviation with clear, well defined letter sounds. A fourth letter is pushing it but not exactly a deal breaker, but it's the E right after the P that kills it. To pronounce it clearly you need to leave a deliberate pause or risk slurring it together into P-T-G. It makes it just awkward enough to pronounce quickly that "Pet-G" evolved as a snappier alternative.

  • @odyss160
    @odyss160 День назад

    wasnt the market selling this thing at the idea its perfect right out of the box? sounds like an expensive waste. only cool thing about it is the ability to have an ams

  • @rynnjacobs8601
    @rynnjacobs8601 2 дня назад +1

    Could you please disable this outrageously shitty AI-translations?

    • @riba2233
      @riba2233 2 дня назад +1

      no, you disable them, it's better to have options.

    • @Chris-14all
      @Chris-14all 2 дня назад +1

      I Just wondered what you mean but now i got IT: the title of the Video, Here for me IT IS in German and it IS really a Nightmare - please stay in English as Long as the Translation ist so worse!

    • @mttkl
      @mttkl День назад +2

      That's a RUclips thing that they're doing automatically, he doesn't control that

  • @shadowblack1987
    @shadowblack1987 2 дня назад

    Stick 0.2mm nozzle on, use quality Bambu filament, print and be done.
    Your modified third party printer will never work as well as the standard one and changes all perimeters.

    • @cranborile
      @cranborile 2 дня назад

      Yea after manually calibrating the filament.

  • @nebuchadnezzar47
    @nebuchadnezzar47 20 часов назад

    bro do me a favour and turn of these fancy schmancy material renderings... they look so out of place in a professional CAD environment and it must clutters your view and takes away from the actually important stuff... leave that shit to the Blender Videographer type of 3D modelers