Hi, you may have missed this one. If you are shooting in low light, and you have stabilized lens, you can DECREASE your shutter speed one stop. Based on your computation the final shutter speed must be 1/25 of a second.
Tex Bacalian Absolutely right. I paused the video to make that very comment, however you beat me to it. I'm sure the narrator just got turned around on the matter as he was explaining. VR/OS allows for SLOWER shutter speeds than 1/FL
Tex Bacalian You are correct there, paisano! Isn't that what they say is/are the advantage(s) of VR and IS or OS? Be able to shoot hand-held or at slower shutter speeds? I'm guessing you're Pinoy too? (or, at least, used to be one?) Mabuhay!
Thank you for this. I have acquired a Cannon EOS 6D and I understand that it is one of the cameras in this line that is known for low light photography. I look forward to viewing your other videos. I am still learning and it is a joy. Blessings...
One point I don't see right off is that you should consider using the camera's built-in timer to help reduce camera shake. Less chance of movement if the camera pushes it's own button :)
His explanation of image stabilization is not correct. If your IS lens (or body if you use a Sony) gives you 1 stop of shake reduction, the slowest shutter speed becomes 1/25th of a second, not 1/100th of a second. Most IS lenses today you will get at least 2 stops of benefit so that would bring us to 1/13th of a second.
Hey Mike, thanks for the compliment and the comment! VR works differently with different cameras and different lenses, but generally we should flip on our VR when the shutter speed drops below the optical length we are shooting the picture at. If you are shooting a photo with a 50mm lens, it is a good idea to turn on VR when your shutter drops below 1/50th of a second. I often shoot with a telephoto lens in poorly-lit rooms and flip on VR at 200mm and 1/100th and notice a big difference.
Can you make a full video on shooting bands in low light with a 7Dish? We'd really appreciate it. And thank you for the tutorials, I'm use to video camera set ups, I have a 7D and am new to iso, aperture, Iris, etc etc the tutorials are a major asset.
Hi, what Mike meant: in the video you mention 1/50 s without VR -> 1/100 s with VR. 1/100 is FASTER than 1/50. If you can hold the camera still at 1/50 s then you won't have a problem with 1/100 either, but a 1-stop VR will allow you to use 1/25 s. (Note: There are lenses that offer up to 4 stops stablization. In the video you mention 1 stop, that can be misleading, too.) Other than that: I know it's not easy to talk about everything in a short video but you could have mentioned that the stabilization system can have different names, e.g. Canon calls it IS. I think a Canon user won't necessarily know what you mean by VR. And one more comment: Except the first pair of photos, I don't really understand why you show two images side by side. In most cases there is nothing to compare between them. Even in HD, if the pohotos aren't shown as big as possible, I really have a hard time to see sharpness, noise and a small amount of motion blur you are talking about. I would rather use all the space I have for 1 photo, and maybe even zoom in to show details. Oh, and I really like the photo of the bike and the room, too! :)
Sensor size < lens, many times I feel like the lens is the real light bucket, larger aperture when possible collects more, unfortunately not possible without some sort of pricey mirrorless or dslr. What did you shoot with?
For landscape photography you're supposed to have a high f number so that all of your image is sharp, what about just after sunset or very minimal light conditions where you still want your landscape to be sharp but also need to open the shutter.....always lower the f even in low light landscapes?
It has less to do with the shutter speed itself, but the relationship of the optical length you are at and the shutter speed. If I am wrong on that, let me know, but that is what I have always been told.
Thanks for the info. I recently shot in a low light situation and i noticed i only exposed for the foreground. I had my speedlite on camera and i noticed my background was darkened. Im guessing i should've used a slower shutter speed to bring in my background. I haven't figured out how to get a sharp picture using a decent shutter speed in a low light situation.
You are on the right track. The hard part is finding that balance, while keeping it sharp. I would say just take it out in low-stress situations and try shooting in similar light and trying lots of things. Bring in more light, just spend some time learning about how to blur caused by camera movement...
How about show jumping with an unlighted covered area , rain outside and very low natural light. 1-1000 shutter speed just didn't work even with a f2.8 70-200. Bumped the iso up to 2000 with noise reduction but still had noise. Had to reduce shutter speed to 1-500 and did a whole lot of light room work. This was using a D7000. Perhaps a full frame would have helped.
great vid! found it very helpful. keep on the good work! still though, in my opinion the most difficult type of photography is photographing in a snowy environment or on white sandy beaches. add some people to the photo and you get an even bigger challenge. but that's my own opinion :)
4:40 why would I need image stabilization to further increase my shutter speed? I would need it to help me reduce my shutter speed, no? Go from 1/50 to 1/25. So that I can have more light in without risking camera shake.
I dont understand what the iso 800 ith f3.5 has to do with 1/50 stop? Doesnt seem to mean anuthing compared to the shutter speed, as he said put 1/ above the lens number???
So, usually you can meter this kind of thing if you are shooting film and don't want to waste an entire roll of film trying to get it just right. I knew this speed was about right from experience, but got there by trial and error with film and digital cameras over the years. If you have a digital the best way to learn is sometimes just to try ;-)
What the heck are you on about: 1/50th to 1/100th is one stop darker (or down to put it in layman terms). If the VR or IS or OS allowed you to have one stop advantage (for extra light), it surely would go the other way. If you use faster shutter speeds, the VR, IS or OS will become redundant
Thanks for trying. However, not engaging, not an inspiring picture to lead into the video and one of the first things you say is how hard it is.... you continue to tell us how hard the settings are.
The content of this channel is forever gold.
I can’t thank you enough for this extremely helpful low light photography. Your teaching style is amazing. THANKS!
Hi, you may have missed this one. If you are shooting in low light, and you have stabilized lens, you can DECREASE your shutter speed one stop. Based on your computation the final shutter speed must be 1/25 of a second.
Tex Bacalian Absolutely right. I paused the video to make that very comment, however you beat me to it. I'm sure the narrator just got turned around on the matter as he was explaining. VR/OS allows for SLOWER shutter speeds than 1/FL
Tex Bacalian You are correct there, paisano! Isn't that what they say is/are the advantage(s) of VR and IS or OS? Be able to shoot hand-held or at slower shutter speeds? I'm guessing you're Pinoy too? (or, at least, used to be one?) Mabuhay!
Thank you for this. I have acquired a Cannon EOS 6D and I understand that it is one of the cameras in this line that is known for low light photography. I look forward to viewing your other videos. I am still learning and it is a joy. Blessings...
Thanks for sharing this juicy info! Great tips and knowledge about settings and low light! 👌
One point I don't see right off is that you should consider using the camera's built-in timer to help reduce camera shake. Less chance of movement if the camera pushes it's own button :)
Your videos are priceless thank you!
His explanation of image stabilization is not correct. If your IS lens (or body if you use a Sony) gives you 1 stop of shake reduction, the slowest shutter speed becomes 1/25th of a second, not 1/100th of a second. Most IS lenses today you will get at least 2 stops of benefit so that would bring us to 1/13th of a second.
+Bruce Smith you mst have some shakey hands
+Bruce Smith ;) just messing with you, you are totally correct.
so correct...it should not be 1/100...rather 1/25, etc
Arjun Dasgupta thank you for bringing out that out because I was questioning that point
LOL.
Hey Mike, thanks for the compliment and the comment! VR works differently with different cameras and different lenses, but generally we should flip on our VR when the shutter speed drops below the optical length we are shooting the picture at. If you are shooting a photo with a 50mm lens, it is a good idea to turn on VR when your shutter drops below 1/50th of a second. I often shoot with a telephoto lens in poorly-lit rooms and flip on VR at 200mm and 1/100th and notice a big difference.
Can you make a full video on shooting bands in low light with a 7Dish? We'd really appreciate it.
And thank you for the tutorials, I'm use to video camera set ups, I have a 7D and am new to iso, aperture, Iris, etc etc the tutorials are a major asset.
Hi, what Mike meant: in the video you mention 1/50 s without VR -> 1/100 s with VR. 1/100 is FASTER than 1/50. If you can hold the camera still at 1/50 s then you won't have a problem with 1/100 either, but a 1-stop VR will allow you to use 1/25 s.
(Note: There are lenses that offer up to 4 stops stablization. In the video you mention 1 stop, that can be misleading, too.)
Other than that: I know it's not easy to talk about everything in a short video but you could have mentioned that the stabilization system can have different names, e.g. Canon calls it IS. I think a Canon user won't necessarily know what you mean by VR.
And one more comment: Except the first pair of photos, I don't really understand why you show two images side by side. In most cases there is nothing to compare between them. Even in HD, if the pohotos aren't shown as big as possible, I really have a hard time to see sharpness, noise and a small amount of motion blur you are talking about. I would rather use all the space I have for 1 photo, and maybe even zoom in to show details.
Oh, and I really like the photo of the bike and the room, too! :)
I was about to make a comment on the 1/100 should have been 1/25. Thanks!
clarified, thanks
4:55 minutes into the video - needs correction from 1/100 to 1/25 second. Well presented and easy to listen to until the confusion at 4:55
agreed...
Awesome video
Sensor size < lens, many times I feel like the lens is the real light bucket, larger aperture when possible collects more, unfortunately not possible without some sort of pricey mirrorless or dslr. What did you shoot with?
For landscape photography you're supposed to have a high f number so that all of your image is sharp, what about just after sunset or very minimal light conditions where you still want your landscape to be sharp but also need to open the shutter.....always lower the f even in low light landscapes?
Open the aperture*
+grimkreaper not gonna win a girl over like that.
+grimkreaper SAVAGE BRO
Did you find your answer on how to get crisp shots in low light situations of Landscapes?
Also interested in this question ^^
after sunset it will be dark. This video is a wealth of good info.
It has less to do with the shutter speed itself, but the relationship of the optical length you are at and the shutter speed. If I am wrong on that, let me know, but that is what I have always been told.
Thanks for the info. I recently shot in a low light situation and i noticed i only exposed for the foreground. I had my speedlite on camera and i noticed my background was darkened. Im guessing i should've used a slower shutter speed to bring in my background. I haven't figured out how to get a sharp picture using a decent shutter speed in a low light situation.
You are on the right track. The hard part is finding that balance, while keeping it sharp. I would say just take it out in low-stress situations and try shooting in similar light and trying lots of things. Bring in more light, just spend some time learning about how to blur caused by camera movement...
Thanks for the speedy response. Will do.
How about show jumping with an unlighted covered area , rain outside and very low natural light. 1-1000 shutter speed just didn't work even with a f2.8 70-200. Bumped the iso up to 2000 with noise reduction but still had noise. Had to reduce shutter speed to 1-500 and did a whole lot of light room work. This was using a D7000. Perhaps a full frame would have helped.
great vid! found it very helpful. keep on the good work!
still though, in my opinion the most difficult type of photography is photographing in a snowy environment or on white sandy beaches. add some people to the photo and you get an even bigger challenge. but that's my own opinion :)
4:40 why would I need image stabilization to further increase my shutter speed? I would need it to help me reduce my shutter speed, no? Go from 1/50 to 1/25. So that I can have more light in without risking camera shake.
What software did you use to write on the screen??
I dont understand what the iso 800 ith f3.5 has to do with 1/50 stop? Doesnt seem to mean anuthing compared to the shutter speed, as he said put 1/ above the lens number???
Great Video Thank you.
Slept like a baby on the chair after listening to you.
How do you figure you need 10seconds in that camp fire? or is it simply a trial and error of shoooting it multiple times to figure which works?
So, usually you can meter this kind of thing if you are shooting film and don't want to waste an entire roll of film trying to get it just right. I knew this speed was about right from experience, but got there by trial and error with film and digital cameras over the years. If you have a digital the best way to learn is sometimes just to try ;-)
How about WB what should be Kelvin settings 9500 or 2000?)
How does one do low light photography when , you can't change your iso
Can you make a full video on how to photograph low light concerts Please!?! Thanks!
+josesoccer2011 Ditto
Great explanation
What the heck are you on about: 1/50th to 1/100th is one stop darker (or down to put it in layman terms). If the VR or IS or OS allowed you to have one stop advantage (for extra light), it surely would go the other way. If you use faster shutter speeds, the VR, IS or OS will become redundant
my most love subject
Good video but a misleading statement about VR, you don't need VR to go up to 1/100 sec, you would only need VR to allow you to go down to 1/30.
Slower shutter means a higher number
This guy totally reminds me of Sal from Khan Academy lol
his voice made me fall asleep
Great video but little bit boring 👌🏼
RapaRipa yep really boring 😴😴
you sound like CPG GREY
or Sal Khan lol
At 12:05, Refraction. ;)
Kevin R z
wahhhhht
Thanks for trying. However, not engaging, not an inspiring picture to lead into the video and one of the first things you say is how hard it is.... you continue to tell us how hard the settings are.
Great video