Great video, as always! I wonder if offsetting the sawteeth would be better for the teeth long term, but what do I know...? Also thought the blades would be better off with rubber between them (instead of a metal washer) to prevent them from spinning, Again what do I know...? If it works, it works! Good job!
Thanks 🙏 I don't know either, I don't think the blades will slip as they are firmly attached. A rubber spacer would probably just be squeezed and possibly uneven 🤔
Hahaha.... that little celebration at the end. I would normally say this is not a good idea, but then it striked me? why not? Love the details in this video Hestad, and the lathe... is so damn satisfying to watch 🙈 but 200 meters of wood with groves? I'm curious to see what that is for. 🤩
A homemade dado blade, I love the idea but I think you should stagger the teeth of the two blades to avoid asking too much of your motor. When the teeth are offset, they don't cut at the same time, so the motor forces less.
@@tim_biller I could not find one for such a small table saw. I looked at dodo-blades, but it was expensive. These two blades cost NOK 400 = USD 35, pretty inexpensive and suitable investment for my old table saw, and I can easily just use one of them for regular cutting
Mostly because of the speed. I only have a handheld router, it creates a lot more dust, not easy to use with a hose attached, and the cut is not as clean as with a saw as well.
Awesome! It's a cheap Dado blade, I have contemplated getting one in the past but I no longer have a table saw so the point is moot. Do you have a face shield? I find them super annoying but good for doing things you probably shouldn't.
As long as you are only cutting a groove and not all the way through, a riving knife isn't needed. Don't know why you would make a through cut with a dado blade.
Correct: my plan is just to cut a 6mm deep groove into the wood, not cut it into two pieces. These blades are originally made for cutting though, so I can make another adapter and only use one of the blades if I want to do cutting.
Hmmm . . . A basic dado set DIY style. Dado sets are stunningly common in the USA, not so much in the EU apparently. More shims in the center makes a wider groove/dado, obviously; using a variety of thicknesses can allow the dado width to be tuned to a desired width. Typically, a dado set is smaller diameter than the standard blade diameter for the saw to reduce the load on the motor due to the wider cut. A USA-style dado set comes with chipper-style wide shims to produce a flat bottom in wide dadoes; this could be emulated with a third blade. For this setup, a wider adapter hub would allow for more dado width; excess hub length could be accommodated by a recess machined into the saw's follower flange. Making the adapter's flange narrower would move the assembly closer to the motor for more thread engagement with the clamping nut if needed. Within reasonable limits, the greater mass of adding a second or third blade is not a problem for the saw motor - the issue to be aware of is the load from the cut width/depth and feed rate.
You are correct, I had not heard about them before just now - after I made this video 😖 They are very expensive over here though, I found a kit for USD 350 - the two blades I used cost in total USD 35 😊 Thanks a lot for the insight about the system, it seems to be very smart. My "system" has no flexibility at all when it comes to the width, so in that regards the dado kit is much more usable.
Question .. why not simply took a smaller Blade? or two .. 190X20 is a common size for Hand-Saws .. i mean the bearing are not made for two Blade, for the load .. but worth the try, .. but smaller blades are bit safer, less cuttingspeed on the Toth, lees work for the Motor and you dont need that cutting depth for that task
@@georghofmann1782 That could have worked well, absolutely less stress for the motor and bearings.I think these smaller blades are thinner though, I have seen those with 1.8mm cutting width so it would have been a 2.4mm gap in between.
@@kihestad depends .. the ones for the Batterie Machines are indeed thinner, down to 1.3mm .. but also there are 2.4mm thick, the more precize for harder Materials like laminate .. the cheaper once are mostly also the thicker once
When the lathe is running, you should NEVER pick up swarf with your fingers, use a pliers. If the swarf happens to catch on the moving part just as you grab it, it can slice your hand very badly.
Alright, got it! 😬 If it's a lot of swarf I do stop the lathe to get it away,. However, sometimes if it's just a tiny bit... 😖 I'll use a plier next time 🤞
Bonjour. Cette modification est très dangereuse. Les lames "Dado" doivent êtres conçues et fabriquées de façon très précise. En particulier pour éviter les vibrations, le resserrement des lames entre elles suite aux vibrations (d'ou une entretoise assez grande en diamètre, mais pas trop pour permettre l'évacuation des copeaux), ou le resserrement des lames par le bois (en particulier le bois massif et surtout si comme vous il n'y a pas de couteau diviseur après la lame) se qui pourrait occasionner un retour forcé vers l'arrière et vous blesser ou plus grave. De même, les dentures sont spécialement étudiées pour limiter les accidents et optimiser la coupe. Je vous suggère de faire très très attention et de carrément investir dans un jeu de lames de bonne qualité et prévue pour cela ce qui sera plus rentable sur une machine peu puissante et moins risqué. Cordialement.
Thanks for the warning ⚠️ 🙏 I do have a vacuum attached to help avoid sawdust become packed in between the blades. I will also attach the protection cover that goes over the blades. And make sure to frequently inspect the blades. Any sign of malfunction and I'll stop right away 😬😳😔
Death trap 😂
Love it!!!
@@RichardT2112 Luckily, I survived 😅
Great video, as always! I wonder if offsetting the sawteeth would be better for the teeth long term, but what do I know...? Also thought the blades would be better off with rubber between them (instead of a metal washer) to prevent them from spinning, Again what do I know...? If it works, it works! Good job!
Thanks 🙏 I don't know either, I don't think the blades will slip as they are firmly attached. A rubber spacer would probably just be squeezed and possibly uneven 🤔
Hahaha.... that little celebration at the end. I would normally say this is not a good idea, but then it striked me? why not? Love the details in this video Hestad, and the lathe... is so damn satisfying to watch 🙈 but 200 meters of wood with groves? I'm curious to see what that is for. 🤩
Haha, I was quite happy there at the end, for once everything turned out just as I hoped for 😁 Yeah, to be precise: 184 meters according to my plan 🥴
@@kihestad Greenhouse with channel plastic?
bravo et quel belle idée merci Yves du Quebec
Thanks 🙏
A homemade dado blade, I love the idea but I think you should stagger the teeth of the two blades to avoid asking too much of your motor. When the teeth are offset, they don't cut at the same time, so the motor forces less.
Hmm, that just sounds like a very good idea! Not sure why I did not think of that 🤔 Thanks for the tips 🙏😊
I really admire the effort here but were you not able to source a 6mm grooving blade for your saw?
@@tim_biller I could not find one for such a small table saw. I looked at dodo-blades, but it was expensive. These two blades cost NOK 400 = USD 35, pretty inexpensive and suitable investment for my old table saw, and I can easily just use one of them for regular cutting
Fair enough. Love the channel.
@@tim_biller Maybe it's because these type of blades are banned in the EU as they're quite dangerous
At least they're not banned in the UK for home woodworkers.
I second this, would have been the best solution. Even a dado set.
Add a soft start mod
That's actually a good idea, it starts with a 'bang' as it is now 🥴
Very impressive end result. Is there a reason for using the saw vs a router with a 6mm bit? Is it just speed of cut?
Mostly because of the speed. I only have a handheld router, it creates a lot more dust, not easy to use with a hose attached, and the cut is not as clean as with a saw as well.
Impressive willpower to resist that list of reasons for buying a new toy 😂
@@b0ned0me haha 😂 I should probably be pretty proud of myself for not buying a new tool - for once 😅
@@b0ned0meI have to agree. There is no way that I wouldn't use it for a really good excuse to buy another tool.
I just don't have the willpower.
Awesome! It's a cheap Dado blade, I have contemplated getting one in the past but I no longer have a table saw so the point is moot. Do you have a face shield? I find them super annoying but good for doing things you probably shouldn't.
@@GarrickPayne I do have a shield that goes over the blade, It's also annoying but I think I'll dig it out when using this mod.
As long as you are only cutting a groove and not all the way through, a riving knife isn't needed. Don't know why you would make a through cut with a dado blade.
Correct: my plan is just to cut a 6mm deep groove into the wood, not cut it into two pieces. These blades are originally made for cutting though, so I can make another adapter and only use one of the blades if I want to do cutting.
Hmmm . . . A basic dado set DIY style. Dado sets are stunningly common in the USA, not so much in the EU apparently. More shims in the center makes a wider groove/dado, obviously; using a variety of thicknesses can allow the dado width to be tuned to a desired width. Typically, a dado set is smaller diameter than the standard blade diameter for the saw to reduce the load on the motor due to the wider cut. A USA-style dado set comes with chipper-style wide shims to produce a flat bottom in wide dadoes; this could be emulated with a third blade. For this setup, a wider adapter hub would allow for more dado width; excess hub length could be accommodated by a recess machined into the saw's follower flange. Making the adapter's flange narrower would move the assembly closer to the motor for more thread engagement with the clamping nut if needed. Within reasonable limits, the greater mass of adding a second or third blade is not a problem for the saw motor - the issue to be aware of is the load from the cut width/depth and feed rate.
You are correct, I had not heard about them before just now - after I made this video 😖 They are very expensive over here though, I found a kit for USD 350 - the two blades I used cost in total USD 35 😊 Thanks a lot for the insight about the system, it seems to be very smart. My "system" has no flexibility at all when it comes to the width, so in that regards the dado kit is much more usable.
Question .. why not simply took a smaller Blade? or two .. 190X20 is a common size for Hand-Saws .. i mean the bearing are not made for two Blade, for the load .. but worth the try, .. but smaller blades are bit safer, less cuttingspeed on the Toth, lees work for the Motor and you dont need that cutting depth for that task
@@georghofmann1782 That could have worked well, absolutely less stress for the motor and bearings.I think these smaller blades are thinner though, I have seen those with 1.8mm cutting width so it would have been a 2.4mm gap in between.
@@kihestad depends .. the ones for the Batterie Machines are indeed thinner, down to 1.3mm .. but also there are 2.4mm thick, the more precize for harder Materials like laminate .. the cheaper once are mostly also the thicker once
@@georghofmann1782 alright, that's nice to know about. Thanks for the tips 👍
Je n'aurais pas fait le trou sur la barre mais apres avoir coupé le morceau
That would actually have been much better 😳 You are absolutely right 🙏 I still have a lot to learn as a lathe operator 🥴
I wonder if you could simply 3D print an adapter….
Not sure if I had dared putting on a plastic piece there 🤔
For future spinning wheels of death modifications, motorcycle gear provides lost of abrasion resistance!
Yes, good idea 💡 I'll remember that 😁😅
When the lathe is running, you should NEVER pick up swarf with your fingers, use a pliers. If the swarf happens to catch on the moving part just as you grab it, it can slice your hand very badly.
I use a paint brush
Alright, got it! 😬 If it's a lot of swarf I do stop the lathe to get it away,. However, sometimes if it's just a tiny bit... 😖 I'll use a plier next time 🤞
Good tip!
Learnt that one the hard way myself.
Bonjour. Cette modification est très dangereuse. Les lames "Dado" doivent êtres conçues et fabriquées de façon très précise. En particulier pour éviter les vibrations, le resserrement des lames entre elles suite aux vibrations (d'ou une entretoise assez grande en diamètre, mais pas trop pour permettre l'évacuation des copeaux), ou le resserrement des lames par le bois (en particulier le bois massif et surtout si comme vous il n'y a pas de couteau diviseur après la lame) se qui pourrait occasionner un retour forcé vers l'arrière et vous blesser ou plus grave. De même, les dentures sont spécialement étudiées pour limiter les accidents et optimiser la coupe.
Je vous suggère de faire très très attention et de carrément investir dans un jeu de lames de bonne qualité et prévue pour cela ce qui sera plus rentable sur une machine peu puissante et moins risqué. Cordialement.
Thanks for the warning ⚠️ 🙏 I do have a vacuum attached to help avoid sawdust become packed in between the blades. I will also attach the protection cover that goes over the blades. And make sure to frequently inspect the blades. Any sign of malfunction and I'll stop right away 😬😳😔