From a nearly 5 decade woodworker, I agree with nearly all your advice to newbies. I would add to your item #1 - don't purchase a tool just because every RUclipsr has one. I take slight exception to the table saw comment. I think a tablesaw can actually elevate the quality of your work. I recommend a better table saw and a cheaper track saw. Your advice to cut angles, miters, etc. on the table saw is spot on. It's a good idea to make the most critical, accurate cuts on your heaviest, most stable machine. Very good video from an old codger (I understood the gamer comment, too. Haha). Thanks. Subscribed.
Thanks so much for that validation! I think I can agree with your thoughts about the good table saw. My table saw was my first big investment and it's been worth it in the long run - definitely elevated my work. I do think for folks who are brand new to woodworking (and thus aren't really sure what they're going to make or whether they're actually going to stick with it) my point stands and I'd rather see more folks enjoying the craft and leveling up to the big TS once they know what they're doing and know they'll be happy they spent thousands on a good saw.
Excellent video, thank you! You asked for more ideas, my contribution would be to prioritize quality measuring, marking and setup tools. Having a dead on set of setup blocks, combo squares, digital caliper etc. is worth every penny and you use them all constantly. Don’t trust the big box versions. “A man with one watch always knows what time it is, a man with TWO watches is never sure” 🙂
Oooh that is a really good one I didn't even think of. I did invest in a few really good engineering squares and measuring tools and agree they're nearly priceless for doing quality work.
@ Using a marking knife instead of a pencil makes a huge difference in precision (and reduces tear out). Having REALLY good and consistent tape measures and rulers do as well. The digital angle finder is a godsend. I find many of the things that make the biggest improvements are little things - larger router bases (3x3 Custom’s is amazing), compression bits, superior push sticks, etc.
Oh wow! Well I hope my advice serves you well. Some others have mentioned that track saws are only for plywood work. They are handy for plywood but I mostly use mine when I need to bring the saw to the piece or when I need to establish a square edge on tabletops etc - so not just for plywood breakdown.
Quality and practical video. I transitioned from carpentry to woodworking, and made the transition from basic rough tools to finer ones; I have the same Bosch miter saw and love it. What I suggest people also consider is WHY they are woodworking - what do you want to get out of it? Over time I've transitioned almost entirely to hand tool-based woodworking because I found using so many machines stressful (not to mention loud, messy and dangerous). What I realized is the process was more important to me than the result. Everyone's goals will be different, but it was a big epiphany that would have saved me a lot of money had I come to it sooner.
Yes! Thanks for sharing! If I didn’t need to make things fast (for business reasons) and could take all the time I needed I could really get into more of hand tool woodwork.
I agree 100%. You’re not stuck if you make bad choices but there’s depreciation and the effort of reselling to think about too. I’m just trying to encourage folks to think and buy carefully. Thanks for watching!
#11. you dont need every power tool to be battery operated. seriously man, this is a BIG one, if you're working in a shop and you can deal with a cable easily, corded electric or air tools can be a real life saver. they tend to be far cheaper and just as powerful for many of the tools you can buy, especially for wood working where you often attach dust collection. when I bought my angle grinder, I saw the corded one for a little over $100, and a battery powered with the same HP rating, from the same manufacturer for like $250. I have not ONCE felt like the cable was in the way. the only battery powered tools I own, or will ever own are drills and impacts. Ill never have to buy new batteries, or worse yet, new tools because the batteries are not longer manufactured.
I like that one for sure. The angle grinder is a tough one for me. On the one hand, the time I used it most was for power carving for hours and having the cable saved me swapping tons of batteries. On the other, I knicked the cable a couple times in the process 😆 Thanks for watching!
agree with all the points! Adding one of my own: Sander should be the first power tool, one should upgrade. I had simple corded 5in orbital sander which do the job but when I got into serious furniture, it was just too slow. Didnt had budget for festool so I took a gamble on bosch get 5n and its just awesome! Another thing I have done is to buy second hand local tools and see if that fits the bill. I got kobalt jobsite table saw first and made few pieces but when I got into joinery, it was not accurate enough so decided to upgrade to ridgid R4560 which was extremely accurate for my needs without breaking the bank. Same goes with the planer which I recently upgraded to dewalt 735x
This advice and opinion is great. If you are a full time woodworker there is definitely some good suggestions in here. I would add this as something to think additionally about. A domino is very expensive and most people who are getting into woodworking will still have a learning curve with the domino, and it isn't as straightforward as a lot of woodworks of youtube show out there. For this a cheaper option of a doweling jig, that was mentioned earlier in this video, is an excellent suggestion as this can provide excellent strength, cheaper, and can easily be as repeatable as the domino, by adding a drill stop guide to your drill bits at a fraction of the price. The jointer, this is the issue I see with some of the statements from woodworkers of youtube and that is you need a "giant" jointer because you will "out grow" your benchtop or smaller jointers "in no time". Jointers are used to "flatten" or square up the "edges" of the board and a planer is used to help "flatten" the "surface" of the board. With this in mind, do you plan on jointing wood that is greater than 6" thick? For most woodworkers, the answer is no. Now if using to "make your own lumber" I would recommend instead of spending 1500 dollars on a jointer to help you square a side to send it through the bandsaw safely, just get a hand plane, to help get you into the ball park of flat, enough to be considered safe through the bandsaw. The next can be stating the weight of the wood, it is no unusual for people to have infeed and outfeed tables to help with the weight, the only draw back is getting the height you desire for it. The jointer, needing to get a bigger one, was technically a contradiction to how you started the video discussing the "need for a bigger lathe" to later, only using the smaller one. Space is a premium, and money is not easy for people to handle. There is always the side of selling your old tools on social media or other outlets to help offset the cost if you are finding, that "yes, I do need that bigger/smoother/more expensive (insert here) tool." It is not ideal, but in line with waiting on the right tool, sometimes its the right tool, for the right job, for right now. Please keep making videos like this, it brings in the conversation and can help people identify the direction they are going.
Thanks a bunch! And I appreciate your perspective too. Hopefully people will read and decide what makes the most sense for their project requirements. My main point about small vs big jointer is that the bed is too small for longer timber. I disagree slightly that the jointer is not for face milling. In my opinion you get much better results getting stuff square when you have a jointed edge and face before planing. That said, my point about getting a better planer is that the milling sled is a great alternative for a long time vs a small underpowered jointer.
Thank you for watching! Yes I like Makita (if you can’t tell haha). My dad always had Makita growing up and when I started buying I liked that they’re made in Japan (or were originally). I haven’t ventured much into Festool myself apart from the Domino and Rotex (but literally only for rough sanding). Everything I’ve heard about the brand is that the prices are high but worth it if you depend on your stuff.
Timely video. Recently bought my first planer and was looking at a jointer purchase. I came pretty close to buying an 8” tabletop model several times. I’ve resisted thus far 😀
Haha. Well I’m glad to hear my first comment on that note is a positive one. Yeah a lot of focus is out on the cutting capacity and not enough on the bed length.
Tools don't make the woodworker, woodworkers got along without all the fancy tools most of them made the tools with their skills, as needed. great vid!
My experience is that great tools make the work easier and/or faster, but not necessarily better. The few tools that made my work better were generally layout and marking tools.
Great advice! I definitely agree with your point on expensive router tables! I never understood why someone would choose an expensive router table like from woodpeckers or Jessem when you’d be better off with a shaper. You can find a great shaper for about the same amount of money and it’s more versatile and accurate. Plus a lot of shapers can take router bits as well.
Yeah I just think a lot of folks would get by for much longer with less expensive approaches. I like my table and don’t plan to change it up but it’s overkill for most folks. Main thing I like about a router table is being able to put a template bit on my router and flush trim bit on the table and quickly do both operations without changing bits.
Lots of good advice in this video. Once a professional, now a hobbiest. A Stanley #3 or #4. A nice Miller's Falls small block plane. A decent set of chisels from the junk store. A draw knife or 3. The ability to sharpen these tools. A heavy, heavy bench. And here's my out-of-left field recommendation... A small dumb-head shaving horse/bench. Of course I still have a table, chop, and many hand saws. But for me, it's all about noise. I hate using a router... which means using a router and a vacuum... which means ear protection and eye protection and lung protection. Hand tools are quiet. Most hand tools make shavings, not dust. Hand tools require skill, which is largely what makes woodworking fun as a hobby (for me). Of course, if you gotta make money, you have to set up production runs and design everything around power tools. But if you don't? It's so much more fun (for me) to get to know the wood.
Thanks so much for your reply. I definitely hear that for sure. I agree that in a world where I had enough time to make the same things and didn't need to make money from them, being able to do most things with hand tools would be really satisfying. And I agree hand tools require skill - I feel mine growing whenever I pick up a plane or intentionally leave a bit of delicate trimming for chiselwork. The skill of power tools is mostly in order of operations and jig-making, which as a engineering oriented person myself, is satisfying in its own way. Thanks for watching!
Additionally I would encourage anyone to look into hand tools and sharpening early, especially if you are tight on money/space or if noise is an issue. And for some operations it is just the easier and safer choice. It opens up an additional level of woodworking and understanding, that does not require the next big expensive powertool purchase. You can face joint big boards with relatively small hand planes and a straight edge and then feed them through the planer/thicknesser . Also with a hand plane you can remove a thou of material and really creep up on perfect fits. This can also be handy to fine tune jigs for powertools. And the buy once/cry once mantra for tools is still valid. If you look at the prices of secondhand high quality tools in Europe, you can still get back 70-90% of your cost for a premium tool you don't need. At least I haven't found a domino for less than 70-80% of retail prices. I assume in the US it's the same.
Hey yes! Thanks these are all great points! I think if I had not gone so quickly from hobbyist to full time woodworker I would have liked to spend more time honing (pun intended) my hand tools skills. It’s where all the zen of woodworking exists. I am going to do some more thinking and research and maybe do a follow up type video focusing on hand tools. It’s a deep well and I agree often overlooked in this world of woodworking content. And I 100% agree a lot of high end tools do hold their value and for good reason. My point there is mostly that for beginners who maybe don’t have a ton to spend they could get by for a long time before buying the finest version of a similar tool.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking You are absolutely right, it is crucial to predict what kind of projects you will do. Sheet goods vs. solid wood projects. And a crappy tool can build motivation for a great one if you truly need it. But as soon as you are confident, that you will continue your woodworking journey in a certain direction there are obvious high quality tools, were you can't go wrong. I feel much more confident selling my Festools or Makitas for a good price, than the cheap box store tools .
I’ve been woodworking for 50+ years and I’m cheap. Most of my major equipment was purchased used some even free much of it needed extensive restomod. My current table saw is a vintage cast iron Craftsman new fence, motor, and miter gauge, I’ve used good cabinet saws it will match them for precision all in under $500 and lots of shopping. I greatly enjoy turning rusty junk into fine woodworking tools. Most table saws also need a new miter gauge anyway. As for a miter saw, I have a radial arm saw that out preforms any miter saw I’ve used except it only has a 10” blade, it was my dad’s 68 Craftsman . As for router bits sometimes inexpensive is the way to go when finding out what you’ll need or use it once, I have a bunch of rarely used expensive bits. Don’t be a tool snob my shop ranges from the “best” to cheap. Harbor Freight is often what you need I’ve turned 100’s of pens on their mini lathe. HF ranges from dumpster fill to excellent buys. Invest in high quality sandpaper!
My tips: eventually you need a jointer AND a planer. Buy a jointer-planer. If you go up, skip cabinet saws and look what kind of slider saw options do you have. With a good slider table saw you can replace your table saw, your track saw and specially your miter saw. And you don't have to ever do again any awkward in-air pushing if you ripping large sheet materials and in most cases, your fingers will be far away from the blade.
I fully agree on the jointer front! I've been wanting to upgrade my old 6" Grizzly jointer for a while now, but room is definitely an issue. I did upgrade to a helical cutter head, so I want to get my money's worth out of that... Now that I say that, I'm not sure it makes any sense. Guess I'm shopping for that 8" Grizzly after all!
Haha. Yeah I’ve been surprised how often I have to rip stuff down before jointing because even 8” is narrower than a lot of rough lumber. Hope you find the jointer you’re looking for. But I get it about the space.
These are great tips! I couldn't help but notice what seems to be a custom dust collection shroud on the miter saw. I have the same saw and dust collection is horrendous. What did you use there?
Thank you for a lot of good advice. On the battery platform issue, I have Makita, Dewalt and Milwaukee, and probably 20 batteries between the three. With respect to the compact routers, I have all three brands and the plunge bases for all of them, and there are some features on all of them that I prefer over others. For instance, I really like the weight, the feel and the depth adjustment of the Makita with the standard base. But I hate the stiff adjustment of the depth rod of the Makita plunge base and the fact that the plunge lock lever pops loose unless you keep continual thumb pressure on it while routing. The Dewalt is heavy and clunky to hold compared to the other two but the plunge base for the Dewalt has a beautiful depth adjustment rod and plunge lock as does the Milwaukee, but the Dewalt router is difficult to align and insert into either the standard or plunge base. If I could only have one, the Milwaukee is the best of all three in these respects. With respect to the JessEm doweling jig, I have the original and if you are doing occasional built in cabinetry or custom work, it is a fantastic tool - extremely nice quality! John Jensen from British Columbia
Thanks so much for writing and offering that perspective! I agree you really have to mash down the lock on the small makita router base (the big one is great) but I had no idea the Milwaukee was so nice. I've never used it.
Good thoughts overall, but #3 conflicts with #1. Saying to buy a track saw and a contractor's tablesaw instead of a cabinet tablesaw is only correct if your projects are mostly sheet goods. If you're making outdoor furniture from solid wood, for instance, you may struggle cutting the 8/4 hardwood material that is often used in outdoor furniture with either the track saw or jobsite saw.
I hear you. But I said #1 first for the reason that it’s always the first consideration. For new folks who don’t have a table saw yet, #1 might, to your point, lead them to prioritize the bigger cabinet saw. But the beginners out there making this and that and small cutting boards and such should at least think about #3 in my opinion before spending $2500-5000 on a huge table saw.
I disagree. I make fine furniture and do not own a “professional” cabinet saw. I have a job site saw and track saw that work just fine for me and my methods. I also have several Diston hand saws and tenon saws that I keep razor sharp. For a few cuts I find it faster to use a hand saw than setting up tracks or using a table saw - especially if I have to create an elaborate jig. But, to each their own.
Ooh yeah I will say the soft start on that Makita I demonstrated is soooo nice. You don't get as much of the jerk motion on start. That's a TON of routers! Thanks for watching!
I understand your point about the jointer but often times an 8 inch jointer requires 240 volt power which is a massive investment for someone on top of the already expensive jointer if their shop is not wired for it.
Yes that's a good point. When I got mine, I had the luxury of having some electric work experience and was able to install the circuit for it myself. I suppose though if you're getting into the hobby enough to justify going for an 8" jointer (like you've kinda maxed out what you can do with a good planer and shims, straight rip jigs, offset router fence etc options) then maybe it's worth the extra expense?
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Having a 6 inch jointed (envy for an 8 inch) I use the woodpeckers rout-n-plane for wider boards then this flat side down through the 12 inch planer. Lot less than the 8 inch jointer.
I am blessed or cursed by being one who has to experiment. I blame my engineer dad. I do consider the wood lathe to be the best christmas present I ever bought myself, and now I have 6.... Mostly a bowl maker, but do some spindles. Your long lathe is ideal for turning table legs, but you would need a long tool rest. They make some that are 2 foot long, or you can "engineer" one for yourself. Don't get into bowl making, your table saw ends up being a storage area for bowl blanks. You also need 2 bandsaws, one that cuts about 6 inches high and another that cuts about 16 or so high for big bowls.... I took to bowls like a duck to water. For the cordless tools, I did construction, mostly concrete, for 30 years. The first cordless drills I saw were the Dewalt. I saw one fall off of a 5 story building and other than a slight case crack, it was not hurt at all. Now days even the concrete guys use drills. I see mostly Dewalt and Makita. Almost no other brands. Spot on about the saw blades. And about some one who knows how to sharpen them. I had a guy years ago who took my Forrest blade and it came back sharper than it was out of the cover. I use mostly the Freud combination blades so I don't have to change out for cross cut and rip cuts. One not mentioned, but you can find so many uses for once you learn how to use them, are hand planes. Worst one I bought, a Bridge City plane. The bottom was convex. I sent it back and the replacement was the same. I do have mostly Veritas, and Lie Neilson (from my dad). I do have some old Stanley, and some wood ones since I want to make some. I haven't splurged for a Festool domino tool yet. Been using biscuits forever. They do line things up well. Long before there were track saws, I was using aluminum channel and an old Skill saw. The channel was 1 by 2 by 1 inch. It doesn't hurt to have your blade square to the base and that isn't always easy.
Thanks for your thoughts here. I actually finally sold the lathe as I was making this video! 😂 And yes I love hand planes. You can probably see my Stanleys behind me in my videos. Refurbishing them was my gateway into woodworking - they’re all vintage ones from eBay and antique stores that needed a lot of love but they all work great now. Maybe I need to do a follow up on just hand tools advice. Thanks for watching!
I agree to a point with your message. Take for example the Jessum Doweling jig. I have the original as well as the new version. I also have the Dowel Max. Why? I love dowel joinery. I don't build cabinets (yet) and for me an investment in a Domino would just be a waste at this point. Now if it ever got to the point where time was of the essence, then sure I would invest in one. It is a great tool.
Totally. I definitely don’t think everyone needs a Domino. My goal is to encourage people to think carefully about what they want to do and buy the tools that meet with what they need. For me, I couldn’t drill accurately enough even with the jig to satisfy my level of quality and speed so the Domino made sense. So my point was it’s actually a lot easier to swallow an upgrade from a mid-level tool to a great tool once you know what you’re doing than to buy a super nice one right away only to learn later that you didn’t really need it after all.
Thanks! Yeah I hope I didn't come across as dissing the jig itself. The main point I hoped to make was that I should have started off a little cheaper to see how I liked dowel joinery first and then upgraded to the fancy one, but I wanted to Buy Once, Cry Once, and it didn't pay off for me in that case.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Several things. It hasn't made sense for me (hobby) to buy a Domino, but I have a nice doweling jig I don't much use... I bought a great homemade router table because it came with a router, bits, many options I don't use, and lots and lots of storage. The fence isn't that good, but it's OK and as you pointed out, one doesn't use it much.
Really overall good advice. There are always exceptions and you covered that pretty well. Sure, for people who have a mature woodworking experience and have their patterns and approaches well set this doesn't apply quite as perfectly. But that's not who you made the video for.
Need to understand the type of woodworker you want to become! I rely almost exclusively on hand tools for cutting joints, and power tools for dimensioning. So I use my router plane 100% more than my power router. In fact, I can’t remember the last time I used my router? I use a hand saw to rough cut lumber so have no need for a miter saw. But love my Hammer A3 31 as a precision jointer/planer that save lots of space! How you’re going to work the wood and what you plan on building is the first thing you need to figure out to drive you tool purchases. That said, I think we all develop differently over time, so there will always be tools hanging around that you don’t use or regret buying - until the one time you need it…
Oh yeah I didn't even think to mention that there are some great combo jointer/planer machines out there! I definitely agree you have to know what you want to make. It's not a big deal if it changes over time and you've bought versatile tools. But I've also made a new rule for myself that I only buy tools when a) I need it to get a project done or b) I've found myself over multiple projects wishing I had a thing and then I save up for it and buy. Just no more impulse buying for me.
when it comes to most machines you're better off buying older American made used. they are far better made than new and they are a lot less, You can find Powermatic 66 for $1200 and delta unisaws for less than that, and they are far superior than anything made by any of the asian companies, As for a router table, you can mount a router to a piece of plywood, when needed, I run a professional shop and I don't even have a router table. I use shapers instead and I have a bunch of routers that are not mounted. As someone that as been in the business for a long time I have found that a lot of people are trying to reinvent the wheel, and make a profit, when the reality the tools of long ago do a better job and they are easier and faster to use once you have learned the proper techniques in your work. To me the most valuable tool in your shop is a woodworking education, sadly it is not easy to find masters to teach anymore,
I hear that for sure. And yeah I agree once you know how to use routers, you don’t really need a router table; it is more of a safety/speed/accuracy thing than anything else. And I agree unfortunately RUclips is the best substitute for woodworking education we have that’s accessible but you really need the hands-on experience to learn properly and most of the folks making quality content here are not very experienced or else not focusing specifically on teaching. Thanks for watching!
"There's always more than one way to get something done". Yes yes and yes! the wonder of woodworking is that there is a problem needing solved, and there are lots of ways to solve the equation... never get in the mindset of buying a nice tool to fix a problem you might only have twice in your life. I went all in on the machining side of wood working thinking power tools are the only way to get things done, and found myself completely switching to hyper traditional wood working tools. because they're quiet, calm, peaceful, pleasant, safe for kids to be present and use with guidance, so much easier to put up and down a project, much less set up time. I started with money burning a whole in my pocket. Now I like to see what I can do with a certain number of tools. I've seen people make dove tail boxes with a chisel, hand saw and tape measure alone. Think outside the box, get off RUclips, that's what got you excited about the craft in the first place.
I’d pick a tablesaw that’s used, good, and cheap first if I did this again. I’d also likely get a jobsite saw and then a cabinet saw. I enjoyed my contractor saw but lacks both portability of a jobsite saw and lacks power of a cabinet saw. I’d do that before a track saw because I can get a good tablesaw for $50. I got my Unisaw for $150. Obviously, I waste time dealing with hunting haha I COULD have gotten Unisaws for like $50 if I just waited. I didn’t get them for that price because I passed on them. I also repair my tools. So that’s a time sink. You can definitely get used jobsite saws DIRT cheap. I still only use my track saw for specific cuts. I bet I’ll use the heck out of it once I have a better setup for it. I also guess if you don’t have a setup for a tablesaw and just have a bench? A track saw would be amazing and you really wouldn’t need a table saw for most things. A tablesaw just makes your life easier for small repeatable things. Makes your life easier for big rips.
Get a planer. He literally said it while I was typing this haha Get a good planer. I grabbed a Makita 2040 I needed to repair for $100. It’s amazing and has been SOOOOOO worth it.
Yes I agree the main reason to upgrade the table saw is for power and stability. I nearly had a bad accident trying to push hardwood through my underpowered and dull bladed 3/4hp craftsman saw and was like nope just gonna get a big one. But I think there is a middle ground folks should explore with some of the newer job site saws.
I guess I'm more of circular saw collector then a wood worker. A month ago I counted 4 circular saws in my garage. Then I bought another one. No router in site though.
Yeah that's a great point. I think its the inevitable depreciation that gives me a tummy ache. But better than it just sitting there! Thanks for watching!
All great advice ! Wish I'd seen a video like this a few years ago when I first got started. My shop is littered with crap I barely, or worse, never, touch or use. Might wanna add in there to not always follow the advice of someone who has their own financial interests. I spent hundreds on CRAP to learn how to cut dovetails. Only to have to turn around and buy the proper tools to do tje job. All because someone put out a ton of videos and had a large subscription base. Ya live and ya learn I guess. And that's right, I'm talking about you, common name, animal name, Bible name, guy !!!
Hahaha. I definitely wasn’t trying to dig at JKM. I was super excited about learning to hand cut dovetails when I started and it just isn’t where my interest in woodworking took me. I’m glad I have the dovetail jig (it’s a pretty good one), but there are a ton of other options out there that serve to help you orient the blade properly that are much for entry-level friendly pricewise.
Yes, and I chose not to on purpose - only because I don't think it's a great beginner tool and not 100% essential when starting a tool collection. I think if anything a cheap used small band saw is best for beginners vs a big $2k saw so you can get into making templates and routing. But for anyone who can swing it, having a powerful band saw is awesome and I actually prefer it for ripping cuts over my table saw on thick material - a lot less risk of kickback and a much narrower kerf.
True. I’m a Makita fan from way back, but they don’t build a decent battery nailer yet. I’ve ended up with Milwaukee nailers and have had excellent luck with them.
+1 for this! Was AEG (Ridgid) when I started out, but the purchase of a cordless track saw took me to Makita (Milwaukee didn't do one at the time). Then came a framing nailer, so added Milwaukee to the mix. Then a decent affordable cordless random orbital sander, so Bosch. A few new tool purchases and upgrades later and I'm on 8 battery platforms. Yes, the initial investment of a new battery and charger costs, but I never buy these stand alone, always in kits (way cheaper) and once you're on multiple platforms not only does it open up so many tool options, but also increases the battery to tool ratio (i.e. If I stuck wth 1 platform I doubt I would have purchased 20+ batteries. I'd probably have like 6 to split between about 30 tools. Anyway, my philosophy is, ignore platform loyalty, buy the best tool (within budget) for the job.
Fair enough. But this advice is primarily for folks who haven’t really bought any. I agree some tools are better in different brands, but beginners won’t really appreciate that distinction as much as they will being able to just swap a battery out and keep going.
Hahaha! I feel that. And the great thing about it (and what I was going for in the video) is that maybe that's right for you and your current budget. My hope is to encourage the folks who want to get into this expensive hobby and make cool stuff without breaking the bank or feeling like they wasted money like I have at times. Would love having a Festool EC150 though (if you're wanting to get rid of one) 🙃
Oof yeah I’ve looked at that one. Probably good if you’re offering sharpening as a service or something but likely not for the average hobbyist or even light pro maker.
Absolutely, I've bought several sharpening 'solutions'. Each one, we are told, a game changer. Honestly, though, most of the time, I find myself using sandpaper and a strop I made from the back of an old leather sofa that was being chucked out. As for the Trend, Veritas jigs, and Japanese water stones - bought in Japan - well, I'm not happy exposing expensive items to the 'sticky fingered' environment of a building site. Of course, I'm not a cabinetmaker, but my chisels have always been sharp enough to do the job.
He probably knows, but in his advice to people like me, next to no budget and a single car garage, thinking about your form factor usability is what he’s trying to impart. A big lathe sounds awesome to me. But I’m not about to build anything that large anytime soon, even if I want to. I’m not about to do anything that needs a lathe. I still want one. He’s just trying to help noobs like me make good value choices.
Thanks brother James you got it 💯. My buddy @scottlanier does incredible turning projects (check out his channel 😁) and he absolutely needs the diameter capacity that his full size lathe can handle. So yeah it’s about what you need to do.
I would counterpoint that it’s cheap paper you don’t want. I’ve been wanting to upgrade my $40 Dewalt to a Festool or Mirka brand sander but since I’ve started buying nicer paper (like the 3M Cubitron) I rarely think about sanding that much. But I’ve also never spent so much time sanding as when I’ve used the cheap crap that Powertec sells on Amazon. Total junk. So I’d say good sand paper and definitely use dust extraction and it’ll save you more headaches than just a fancy sander without those two.
You seem hung up on Jessum. Overpriced to the max. Hongdui miter guage from Banggood is a better guage for way less $. Banggood probably sells a good doweling jig that out performs the Jessum too.
Maybe I’ll have to try them out. But I’ve had plenty of other failed purchases from cheap overseas companies too so I guess you just stick with what you know is a safe bet. I’ll agree they’re expensive tools but I find it hard to say it’s overpriced because I’m really satisfied with how they perform. It feels worth it to me.
Odd. RUclips has changed. It's hard to understand who your audience is supposed to be. It's as though this video is filled with advice you wish you could give to yourself five years ago. Thing is, most people are _not_ in a position to dump tens-of-thousands on woodworking equipment. The gumption to even do such a thing is borderline arrogance, especially since every single process in the craft can be accomplished with lower-value equipment first as a test-run to see whether or not it's worth it. Weird flex, as they say. The strange irony here is that (DIY) RUclips has created a niche for guys like you, and over the last decade it has begun to idealize reckless behavior like this. Planes on display and such, as though people _need_ to own & revere them. On a personal level, I hope you make it locally in your business, but I'm afraid you're a victim of our video culture; high-end wood stuff is _not_ a hot market on average. "Woodworking," as it is traditionally conceived and accomplished, is a dust-on-the-floor enterprise borne of forced resourcefulness and cheap materials; it has not been the sterile, surgical-tooled, specialist-only nonsense we see being suggested here. With respect, you're making wood furniture, not a Mars rover. Please don't take any of this as an insult to your craftsmanship. And neither am I dismissing the usefulness of learned precision. I was just earlier to this 'look what I did' party, and the change feels strange. Just be careful where you invest your values, especially if you're doing it for the presentation. Try to imagine who's really watching, and why.
Thanks for your thoughtful response to the video. I didn't mean to come across as arrogant or "look what I did" at all. My goal in sharing the 30k number was to point out that I've learned from all my purchasing - to share that I got carried away by all the flashy stuff too and know its tempting. I'm hoping to inspire people yes to buy tools but to think about how to approach it with wisdom I didn't have 5 years ago. Maybe I am a victim of video culture. But I am also incredibly inspired by some of the amazing stuff I've watched people make and only because of this video culture have I been able to learn and dream and design pieces of my own that I wouldn't have made otherwise. And you're right, it's not a hot market. It's a struggle to make high-end furniture profitably. I don't think anyone needs any of my fancy tools. And those hand planes are displayed on my wall that way, because they're $35 and $85 antique Stanley planes I bought on eBay and restored myself and use frequently. It's not a flex. I revere them only because they were the first tools that inspired me to try woodworking and because they point back to an era of woodworking that wasn't about flashy routers and brand name stuff. And to your first point, the audience for this video is beginner woodworkers who don't have a room full of tools yet, but who are, yes, like me 5 years ago itching to build out a shop and make stuff and buy tools but are also prone to getting carried off by the video culture you mention. Thanks again for watching.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking First: you don't "look arrogant or 'look what I did' at all." That's not you; that's our video culture, and its expectations. Second, you're totally right that this same video culture can be inspiring. All of us watching (RUclips builds & how-to's) now have a wider imagination for what's possible. Third, I'm generalizing, and not so much pointing at you as I think out loud here. You are no plane-worshiper. Not even close. But here's where I get to the point of my criticism: if you're _really_ making videos with the beginner in mind, then don't you think this stuff is a little bit impractical? For example, how is a track-saw (used once every other month) better than a DIY saw-board, or for that matter, a simple aluminum straightedge and a circular saw with a sharp blade? For the beginner, it's not, and their money would be far better spent on clamps, router bits, and sandpaper. And I _still_ use a contractor's table-saw! Well-tuned, of course. Though I'm considering an old Delta. Nice meeting you, and top-quality presentation, by the way. I really have no right being critical of you. Just drinking coffee and thinking.
Thanks it’s nice talking with you too. I’ll take your thought about really for beginners and think on it. Yes there are plenty of bits of advice I could give that would be for the absolute beginner. And maybe I’ll make that video as a follow up to this one. Those tricks served me well for a while but I always found them lacking in accuracy, which led me to these upgrades along the way. There’s a ton more I could have said on this subject to beginners because I’ve learned a ton more by actually doing woodworking vs just watching videos about it, to your point. I did make this video to speak to the Star-eyed youtube viewer of this niche who thinks they have to go out and buy every tool they see because that was me, before I even knew what I wanted to focus on making.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Okay, I don't want to overstay my welcome, but I've already started offering unsolicited advice, so here goes. Maybe you should just own the professional thing. I mean, there's already TONS of beginner woodworking content out here, but not that many really tell pros what not to do. Neutral sells too well. You're a fancy enough carpenter that if you tell me what to do, I might listen! Or argue. Either way, it's a win for your content's engagement. Not saying this is you, but I don't really need to see any more spineless shills who're just trying to get views and sponsorship revenue by showing me high-end equip; I need to see techniques, skill, and new (old) ideas. In my experience, there _are_ no good new woodworking ideas. The best tricks are ancient. Consider that there were already waterwheel belt-driven furniture shops millennia ago. With that in mind, our nylon pocket-hole jigs and knurled-brass marking gauge knobs seem comparatively less innovative. Okay, back to work. I'm sure you'll make great content. I promise to come back and check. Good luck.
Lots of big words us cabinet makers don't understand. Glad you had $30k on tools; I'm sure this makes your products very expensive (more than need be).
From a nearly 5 decade woodworker, I agree with nearly all your advice to newbies. I would add to your item #1 - don't purchase a tool just because every RUclipsr has one. I take slight exception to the table saw comment. I think a tablesaw can actually elevate the quality of your work. I recommend a better table saw and a cheaper track saw. Your advice to cut angles, miters, etc. on the table saw is spot on. It's a good idea to make the most critical, accurate cuts on your heaviest, most stable machine. Very good video from an old codger (I understood the gamer comment, too. Haha). Thanks. Subscribed.
Thanks so much for that validation! I think I can agree with your thoughts about the good table saw. My table saw was my first big investment and it's been worth it in the long run - definitely elevated my work. I do think for folks who are brand new to woodworking (and thus aren't really sure what they're going to make or whether they're actually going to stick with it) my point stands and I'd rather see more folks enjoying the craft and leveling up to the big TS once they know what they're doing and know they'll be happy they spent thousands on a good saw.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Yep. Goes along with what you said about knowing what you're going to do with the tool in the first place.
Excellent video, thank you! You asked for more ideas, my contribution would be to prioritize quality measuring, marking and setup tools. Having a dead on set of setup blocks, combo squares, digital caliper etc. is worth every penny and you use them all constantly. Don’t trust the big box versions.
“A man with one watch always knows what time it is, a man with TWO watches is never sure” 🙂
Oooh that is a really good one I didn't even think of. I did invest in a few really good engineering squares and measuring tools and agree they're nearly priceless for doing quality work.
@ Using a marking knife instead of a pencil makes a huge difference in precision (and reduces tear out). Having REALLY good and consistent tape measures and rulers do as well. The digital angle finder is a godsend. I find many of the things that make the biggest improvements are little things - larger router bases (3x3 Custom’s is amazing), compression bits, superior push sticks, etc.
Dang I was just about to sell my jobsite table saw and RUclips recommended this. Taking that advice and going to invest a track saw now.
Oh wow! Well I hope my advice serves you well. Some others have mentioned that track saws are only for plywood work. They are handy for plywood but I mostly use mine when I need to bring the saw to the piece or when I need to establish a square edge on tabletops etc - so not just for plywood breakdown.
I have that Jessem mitre gauge too. I absolutely love it.
It’s phenomenal. Pricey, but phenomenal.
Quality and practical video. I transitioned from carpentry to woodworking, and made the transition from basic rough tools to finer ones; I have the same Bosch miter saw and love it. What I suggest people also consider is WHY they are woodworking - what do you want to get out of it? Over time I've transitioned almost entirely to hand tool-based woodworking because I found using so many machines stressful (not to mention loud, messy and dangerous). What I realized is the process was more important to me than the result. Everyone's goals will be different, but it was a big epiphany that would have saved me a lot of money had I come to it sooner.
Yes! Thanks for sharing! If I didn’t need to make things fast (for business reasons) and could take all the time I needed I could really get into more of hand tool woodwork.
The great thing about tools, if you take care of them, You can sell them and put that money towards an upgrade or something different all together!
I agree 100%. You’re not stuck if you make bad choices but there’s depreciation and the effort of reselling to think about too. I’m just trying to encourage folks to think and buy carefully. Thanks for watching!
@sturdyboneswoodworking I've learned hard lessons buying tools. Great content... keep it up!
#11. you dont need every power tool to be battery operated.
seriously man, this is a BIG one, if you're working in a shop and you can deal with a cable easily, corded electric or air tools can be a real life saver. they tend to be far cheaper and just as powerful for many of the tools you can buy, especially for wood working where you often attach dust collection. when I bought my angle grinder, I saw the corded one for a little over $100, and a battery powered with the same HP rating, from the same manufacturer for like $250. I have not ONCE felt like the cable was in the way. the only battery powered tools I own, or will ever own are drills and impacts. Ill never have to buy new batteries, or worse yet, new tools because the batteries are not longer manufactured.
I like that one for sure. The angle grinder is a tough one for me. On the one hand, the time I used it most was for power carving for hours and having the cable saved me swapping tons of batteries. On the other, I knicked the cable a couple times in the process 😆 Thanks for watching!
Especially if you’re buying a tool that you’d like to keep around for a few decades. Battery platforms change.
That was fantastic video mate. Well done. Really good tips
Thanks Tom!
agree with all the points! Adding one of my own: Sander should be the first power tool, one should upgrade. I had simple corded 5in orbital sander which do the job but when I got into serious furniture, it was just too slow. Didnt had budget for festool so I took a gamble on bosch get 5n and its just awesome!
Another thing I have done is to buy second hand local tools and see if that fits the bill. I got kobalt jobsite table saw first and made few pieces but when I got into joinery, it was not accurate enough so decided to upgrade to ridgid R4560 which was extremely accurate for my needs without breaking the bank. Same goes with the planer which I recently upgraded to dewalt 735x
Awesome ideas! Thanks for watching!
This advice and opinion is great. If you are a full time woodworker there is definitely some good suggestions in here. I would add this as something to think additionally about.
A domino is very expensive and most people who are getting into woodworking will still have a learning curve with the domino, and it isn't as straightforward as a lot of woodworks of youtube show out there. For this a cheaper option of a doweling jig, that was mentioned earlier in this video, is an excellent suggestion as this can provide excellent strength, cheaper, and can easily be as repeatable as the domino, by adding a drill stop guide to your drill bits at a fraction of the price.
The jointer, this is the issue I see with some of the statements from woodworkers of youtube and that is you need a "giant" jointer because you will "out grow" your benchtop or smaller jointers "in no time". Jointers are used to "flatten" or square up the "edges" of the board and a planer is used to help "flatten" the "surface" of the board. With this in mind, do you plan on jointing wood that is greater than 6" thick? For most woodworkers, the answer is no. Now if using to "make your own lumber" I would recommend instead of spending 1500 dollars on a jointer to help you square a side to send it through the bandsaw safely, just get a hand plane, to help get you into the ball park of flat, enough to be considered safe through the bandsaw. The next can be stating the weight of the wood, it is no unusual for people to have infeed and outfeed tables to help with the weight, the only draw back is getting the height you desire for it. The jointer, needing to get a bigger one, was technically a contradiction to how you started the video discussing the "need for a bigger lathe" to later, only using the smaller one.
Space is a premium, and money is not easy for people to handle. There is always the side of selling your old tools on social media or other outlets to help offset the cost if you are finding, that "yes, I do need that bigger/smoother/more expensive (insert here) tool." It is not ideal, but in line with waiting on the right tool, sometimes its the right tool, for the right job, for right now.
Please keep making videos like this, it brings in the conversation and can help people identify the direction they are going.
Thanks a bunch! And I appreciate your perspective too. Hopefully people will read and decide what makes the most sense for their project requirements. My main point about small vs big jointer is that the bed is too small for longer timber. I disagree slightly that the jointer is not for face milling. In my opinion you get much better results getting stuff square when you have a jointed edge and face before planing. That said, my point about getting a better planer is that the milling sled is a great alternative for a long time vs a small underpowered jointer.
Solid tips! It all depends on what you're building right.
I agree what you said in the video. Been woodworking for 20 years. Makita is my choice of power tools but would like to add Festool into the mix.
Thank you for watching! Yes I like Makita (if you can’t tell haha). My dad always had Makita growing up and when I started buying I liked that they’re made in Japan (or were originally). I haven’t ventured much into Festool myself apart from the Domino and Rotex (but literally only for rough sanding). Everything I’ve heard about the brand is that the prices are high but worth it if you depend on your stuff.
Timely video. Recently bought my first planer and was looking at a jointer purchase. I came pretty close to buying an 8” tabletop model several times. I’ve resisted thus far 😀
Haha. Well I’m glad to hear my first comment on that note is a positive one. Yeah a lot of focus is out on the cutting capacity and not enough on the bed length.
Tools don't make the woodworker, woodworkers got along without all the fancy tools most of them made the tools with their skills, as needed. great vid!
Thanks so much! I agree!
My experience is that great tools make the work easier and/or faster, but not necessarily better. The few tools that made my work better were generally layout and marking tools.
Great advice! I definitely agree with your point on expensive router tables! I never understood why someone would choose an expensive router table like from woodpeckers or Jessem when you’d be better off with a shaper. You can find a great shaper for about the same amount of money and it’s more versatile and accurate. Plus a lot of shapers can take router bits as well.
Yeah I just think a lot of folks would get by for much longer with less expensive approaches. I like my table and don’t plan to change it up but it’s overkill for most folks. Main thing I like about a router table is being able to put a template bit on my router and flush trim bit on the table and quickly do both operations without changing bits.
Lots of good advice in this video.
Once a professional, now a hobbiest. A Stanley #3 or #4. A nice Miller's Falls small block plane. A decent set of chisels from the junk store. A draw knife or 3. The ability to sharpen these tools. A heavy, heavy bench. And here's my out-of-left field recommendation... A small dumb-head shaving horse/bench. Of course I still have a table, chop, and many hand saws. But for me, it's all about noise. I hate using a router... which means using a router and a vacuum... which means ear protection and eye protection and lung protection. Hand tools are quiet. Most hand tools make shavings, not dust. Hand tools require skill, which is largely what makes woodworking fun as a hobby (for me). Of course, if you gotta make money, you have to set up production runs and design everything around power tools. But if you don't? It's so much more fun (for me) to get to know the wood.
Thanks so much for your reply. I definitely hear that for sure. I agree that in a world where I had enough time to make the same things and didn't need to make money from them, being able to do most things with hand tools would be really satisfying. And I agree hand tools require skill - I feel mine growing whenever I pick up a plane or intentionally leave a bit of delicate trimming for chiselwork. The skill of power tools is mostly in order of operations and jig-making, which as a engineering oriented person myself, is satisfying in its own way. Thanks for watching!
Good list.
Subscribed.
Thank you!! Hope it helps you buy wisely!
I agree. I just subscribed. Had never seen this channel before and I am sold.
Additionally I would encourage anyone to look into hand tools and sharpening early, especially if you are tight on money/space or if noise is an issue. And for some operations it is just the easier and safer choice.
It opens up an additional level of woodworking and understanding, that does not require the next big expensive powertool purchase. You can face joint big boards with relatively small hand planes and a straight edge and then feed them through the planer/thicknesser . Also with a hand plane you can remove a thou of material and really creep up on perfect fits. This can also be handy to fine tune jigs for powertools.
And the buy once/cry once mantra for tools is still valid. If you look at the prices of secondhand high quality tools in Europe, you can still get back 70-90% of your cost for a premium tool you don't need. At least I haven't found a domino for less than 70-80% of retail prices. I assume in the US it's the same.
Hey yes! Thanks these are all great points! I think if I had not gone so quickly from hobbyist to full time woodworker I would have liked to spend more time honing (pun intended) my hand tools skills. It’s where all the zen of woodworking exists. I am going to do some more thinking and research and maybe do a follow up type video focusing on hand tools. It’s a deep well and I agree often overlooked in this world of woodworking content.
And I 100% agree a lot of high end tools do hold their value and for good reason. My point there is mostly that for beginners who maybe don’t have a ton to spend they could get by for a long time before buying the finest version of a similar tool.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking You are absolutely right, it is crucial to predict what kind of projects you will do. Sheet goods vs. solid wood projects. And a crappy tool can build motivation for a great one if you truly need it.
But as soon as you are confident, that you will continue your woodworking journey in a certain direction there are obvious high quality tools, were you can't go wrong.
I feel much more confident selling my Festools or Makitas for a good price, than the cheap box store tools .
I’ve been woodworking for 50+ years and I’m cheap. Most of my major equipment was purchased used some even free much of it needed extensive restomod. My current table saw is a vintage cast iron Craftsman new fence, motor, and miter gauge, I’ve used good cabinet saws it will match them for precision all in under $500 and lots of shopping. I greatly enjoy turning rusty junk into fine woodworking tools. Most table saws also need a new miter gauge anyway. As for a miter saw, I have a radial arm saw that out preforms any miter saw I’ve used except it only has a 10” blade, it was my dad’s 68 Craftsman .
As for router bits sometimes inexpensive is the way to go when finding out what you’ll need or use it once, I have a bunch of rarely used expensive bits.
Don’t be a tool snob my shop ranges from the “best” to cheap. Harbor Freight is often what you need I’ve turned 100’s of pens on their mini lathe. HF ranges from dumpster fill to excellent buys.
Invest in high quality sandpaper!
My tips: eventually you need a jointer AND a planer. Buy a jointer-planer.
If you go up, skip cabinet saws and look what kind of slider saw options do you have. With a good slider table saw you can replace your table saw, your track saw and specially your miter saw. And you don't have to ever do again any awkward in-air pushing if you ripping large sheet materials and in most cases, your fingers will be far away from the blade.
I fully agree on the jointer front! I've been wanting to upgrade my old 6" Grizzly jointer for a while now, but room is definitely an issue. I did upgrade to a helical cutter head, so I want to get my money's worth out of that... Now that I say that, I'm not sure it makes any sense. Guess I'm shopping for that 8" Grizzly after all!
Haha. Yeah I’ve been surprised how often I have to rip stuff down before jointing because even 8” is narrower than a lot of rough lumber. Hope you find the jointer you’re looking for. But I get it about the space.
These are great tips! I couldn't help but notice what seems to be a custom dust collection shroud on the miter saw. I have the same saw and dust collection is horrendous. What did you use there?
Thank you for a lot of good advice. On the battery platform issue, I have Makita, Dewalt and Milwaukee, and probably 20 batteries between the three. With respect to the compact routers, I have all three brands and the plunge bases for all of them, and there are some features on all of them that I prefer over others.
For instance, I really like the weight, the feel and the depth adjustment of the Makita with the standard base. But I hate the stiff adjustment of the depth rod of the Makita plunge base and the fact that the plunge lock lever pops loose unless you keep continual thumb pressure on it while routing.
The Dewalt is heavy and clunky to hold compared to the other two but the plunge base for the Dewalt has a beautiful depth adjustment rod and plunge lock as does the Milwaukee, but the Dewalt router is difficult to align and insert into either the standard or plunge base.
If I could only have one, the Milwaukee is the best of all three in these respects.
With respect to the JessEm doweling jig, I have the original and if you are doing occasional built in cabinetry or custom work, it is a fantastic tool - extremely nice quality!
John Jensen from British Columbia
Thanks so much for writing and offering that perspective! I agree you really have to mash down the lock on the small makita router base (the big one is great) but I had no idea the Milwaukee was so nice. I've never used it.
Good thoughts overall, but #3 conflicts with #1. Saying to buy a track saw and a contractor's tablesaw instead of a cabinet tablesaw is only correct if your projects are mostly sheet goods. If you're making outdoor furniture from solid wood, for instance, you may struggle cutting the 8/4 hardwood material that is often used in outdoor furniture with either the track saw or jobsite saw.
I hear you. But I said #1 first for the reason that it’s always the first consideration. For new folks who don’t have a table saw yet, #1 might, to your point, lead them to prioritize the bigger cabinet saw. But the beginners out there making this and that and small cutting boards and such should at least think about #3 in my opinion before spending $2500-5000 on a huge table saw.
I disagree. I make fine furniture and do not own a “professional” cabinet saw. I have a job site saw and track saw that work just fine for me and my methods. I also have several Diston hand saws and tenon saws that I keep razor sharp. For a few cuts I find it faster to use a hand saw than setting up tracks or using a table saw - especially if I have to create an elaborate jig. But, to each their own.
Soft start on routers is also a great option,guilty of too many routers 13.😂😂👍🏝️🇨🇦
Ooh yeah I will say the soft start on that Makita I demonstrated is soooo nice. You don't get as much of the jerk motion on start. That's a TON of routers! Thanks for watching!
Great advice
Thanks for watching!
I understand your point about the jointer but often times an 8 inch jointer requires 240 volt power which is a massive investment for someone on top of the already expensive jointer if their shop is not wired for it.
Yes that's a good point. When I got mine, I had the luxury of having some electric work experience and was able to install the circuit for it myself. I suppose though if you're getting into the hobby enough to justify going for an 8" jointer (like you've kinda maxed out what you can do with a good planer and shims, straight rip jigs, offset router fence etc options) then maybe it's worth the extra expense?
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Having a 6 inch jointed (envy for an 8 inch) I use the woodpeckers rout-n-plane for wider boards then this flat side down through the 12 inch planer. Lot less than the 8 inch jointer.
I am blessed or cursed by being one who has to experiment. I blame my engineer dad. I do consider the wood lathe to be the best christmas present I ever bought myself, and now I have 6.... Mostly a bowl maker, but do some spindles. Your long lathe is ideal for turning table legs, but you would need a long tool rest. They make some that are 2 foot long, or you can "engineer" one for yourself. Don't get into bowl making, your table saw ends up being a storage area for bowl blanks. You also need 2 bandsaws, one that cuts about 6 inches high and another that cuts about 16 or so high for big bowls.... I took to bowls like a duck to water.
For the cordless tools, I did construction, mostly concrete, for 30 years. The first cordless drills I saw were the Dewalt. I saw one fall off of a 5 story building and other than a slight case crack, it was not hurt at all. Now days even the concrete guys use drills. I see mostly Dewalt and Makita. Almost no other brands.
Spot on about the saw blades. And about some one who knows how to sharpen them. I had a guy years ago who took my Forrest blade and it came back sharper than it was out of the cover. I use mostly the Freud combination blades so I don't have to change out for cross cut and rip cuts.
One not mentioned, but you can find so many uses for once you learn how to use them, are hand planes. Worst one I bought, a Bridge City plane. The bottom was convex. I sent it back and the replacement was the same. I do have mostly Veritas, and Lie Neilson (from my dad). I do have some old Stanley, and some wood ones since I want to make some.
I haven't splurged for a Festool domino tool yet. Been using biscuits forever. They do line things up well.
Long before there were track saws, I was using aluminum channel and an old Skill saw. The channel was 1 by 2 by 1 inch. It doesn't hurt to have your blade square to the base and that isn't always easy.
Thanks for your thoughts here. I actually finally sold the lathe as I was making this video! 😂
And yes I love hand planes. You can probably see my Stanleys behind me in my videos. Refurbishing them was my gateway into woodworking - they’re all vintage ones from eBay and antique stores that needed a lot of love but they all work great now. Maybe I need to do a follow up on just hand tools advice. Thanks for watching!
I agree to a point with your message. Take for example the Jessum Doweling jig. I have the original as well as the new version. I also have the Dowel Max. Why? I love dowel joinery. I don't build cabinets (yet) and for me an investment in a Domino would just be a waste at this point. Now if it ever got to the point where time was of the essence, then sure I would invest in one. It is a great tool.
Totally. I definitely don’t think everyone needs a Domino. My goal is to encourage people to think carefully about what they want to do and buy the tools that meet with what they need. For me, I couldn’t drill accurately enough even with the jig to satisfy my level of quality and speed so the Domino made sense. So my point was it’s actually a lot easier to swallow an upgrade from a mid-level tool to a great tool once you know what you’re doing than to buy a super nice one right away only to learn later that you didn’t really need it after all.
Good advice but I love my JessEm dowel jig. My jobsite Dewalt tablesaw (space limitations) and routers are the most used for this hobbyist.
Thanks! Yeah I hope I didn't come across as dissing the jig itself. The main point I hoped to make was that I should have started off a little cheaper to see how I liked dowel joinery first and then upgraded to the fancy one, but I wanted to Buy Once, Cry Once, and it didn't pay off for me in that case.
Yup, that's about right!
Haha which point stood out? The whole thing?
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Several things. It hasn't made sense for me (hobby) to buy a Domino, but I have a nice doweling jig I don't much use... I bought a great homemade router table because it came with a router, bits, many options I don't use, and lots and lots of storage. The fence isn't that good, but it's OK and as you pointed out, one doesn't use it much.
Really overall good advice. There are always exceptions and you covered that pretty well. Sure, for people who have a mature woodworking experience and have their patterns and approaches well set this doesn't apply quite as perfectly. But that's not who you made the video for.
Correct! I just want to help new woodworkers who want to get into it not waste their cash on fancy stuff they don’t need! 🙌
Need to understand the type of woodworker you want to become! I rely almost exclusively on hand tools for cutting joints, and power tools for dimensioning. So I use my router plane 100% more than my power router. In fact, I can’t remember the last time I used my router? I use a hand saw to rough cut lumber so have no need for a miter saw. But love my Hammer A3 31 as a precision jointer/planer that save lots of space! How you’re going to work the wood and what you plan on building is the first thing you need to figure out to drive you tool purchases. That said, I think we all develop differently over time, so there will always be tools hanging around that you don’t use or regret buying - until the one time you need it…
Oh yeah I didn't even think to mention that there are some great combo jointer/planer machines out there! I definitely agree you have to know what you want to make. It's not a big deal if it changes over time and you've bought versatile tools. But I've also made a new rule for myself that I only buy tools when a) I need it to get a project done or b) I've found myself over multiple projects wishing I had a thing and then I save up for it and buy. Just no more impulse buying for me.
when it comes to most machines you're better off buying older American made used. they are far better made than new and they are a lot less, You can find Powermatic 66 for $1200 and delta unisaws for less than that, and they are far superior than anything made by any of the asian companies, As for a router table, you can mount a router to a piece of plywood, when needed, I run a professional shop and I don't even have a router table. I use shapers instead and I have a bunch of routers that are not mounted. As someone that as been in the business for a long time I have found that a lot of people are trying to reinvent the wheel, and make a profit, when the reality the tools of long ago do a better job and they are easier and faster to use once you have learned the proper techniques in your work. To me the most valuable tool in your shop is a woodworking education, sadly it is not easy to find masters to teach anymore,
I hear that for sure. And yeah I agree once you know how to use routers, you don’t really need a router table; it is more of a safety/speed/accuracy thing than anything else. And I agree unfortunately RUclips is the best substitute for woodworking education we have that’s accessible but you really need the hands-on experience to learn properly and most of the folks making quality content here are not very experienced or else not focusing specifically on teaching. Thanks for watching!
"There's always more than one way to get something done". Yes yes and yes! the wonder of woodworking is that there is a problem needing solved, and there are lots of ways to solve the equation... never get in the mindset of buying a nice tool to fix a problem you might only have twice in your life.
I went all in on the machining side of wood working thinking power tools are the only way to get things done, and found myself completely switching to hyper traditional wood working tools. because they're quiet, calm, peaceful, pleasant, safe for kids to be present and use with guidance, so much easier to put up and down a project, much less set up time.
I started with money burning a whole in my pocket. Now I like to see what I can do with a certain number of tools. I've seen people make dove tail boxes with a chisel, hand saw and tape measure alone. Think outside the box, get off RUclips, that's what got you excited about the craft in the first place.
I agree! It’s super easy to get caught up just watching content. It’s inspiring but not nearly as inspiring as actually going and making something.
I’d pick a tablesaw that’s used, good, and cheap first if I did this again.
I’d also likely get a jobsite saw and then a cabinet saw.
I enjoyed my contractor saw but lacks both portability of a jobsite saw and lacks power of a cabinet saw.
I’d do that before a track saw because I can get a good tablesaw for $50.
I got my Unisaw for $150. Obviously, I waste time dealing with hunting haha
I COULD have gotten Unisaws for like $50 if I just waited. I didn’t get them for that price because I passed on them.
I also repair my tools. So that’s a time sink. You can definitely get used jobsite saws DIRT cheap.
I still only use my track saw for specific cuts. I bet I’ll use the heck out of it once I have a better setup for it.
I also guess if you don’t have a setup for a tablesaw and just have a bench? A track saw would be amazing and you really wouldn’t need a table saw for most things. A tablesaw just makes your life easier for small repeatable things. Makes your life easier for big rips.
Get a planer. He literally said it while I was typing this haha
Get a good planer. I grabbed a Makita 2040 I needed to repair for $100. It’s amazing and has been SOOOOOO worth it.
Yes I agree the main reason to upgrade the table saw is for power and stability. I nearly had a bad accident trying to push hardwood through my underpowered and dull bladed 3/4hp craftsman saw and was like nope just gonna get a big one. But I think there is a middle ground folks should explore with some of the newer job site saws.
I guess I'm more of circular saw collector then a wood worker. A month ago I counted 4 circular saws in my garage. Then I bought another one. No router in site though.
*sight
Hahaha! Then go make something!
Great advice! Also, you could sell your unused tools. So, it's not a complete loss. Peace.
Yeah that's a great point. I think its the inevitable depreciation that gives me a tummy ache. But better than it just sitting there! Thanks for watching!
All great advice ! Wish I'd seen a video like this a few years ago when I first got started. My shop is littered with crap I barely, or worse, never, touch or use. Might wanna add in there to not always follow the advice of someone who has their own financial interests. I spent hundreds on CRAP to learn how to cut dovetails. Only to have to turn around and buy the proper tools to do tje job. All because someone put out a ton of videos and had a large subscription base. Ya live and ya learn I guess. And that's right, I'm talking about you, common name, animal name, Bible name, guy !!!
Hahaha. I definitely wasn’t trying to dig at JKM. I was super excited about learning to hand cut dovetails when I started and it just isn’t where my interest in woodworking took me. I’m glad I have the dovetail jig (it’s a pretty good one), but there are a ton of other options out there that serve to help you orient the blade properly that are much for entry-level friendly pricewise.
You didn’t mention the band saw .
Yes, and I chose not to on purpose - only because I don't think it's a great beginner tool and not 100% essential when starting a tool collection. I think if anything a cheap used small band saw is best for beginners vs a big $2k saw so you can get into making templates and routing. But for anyone who can swing it, having a powerful band saw is awesome and I actually prefer it for ripping cuts over my table saw on thick material - a lot less risk of kickback and a much narrower kerf.
I would recommend not limit yourself to one battery brand…
Some tools are better in other brands
True. I’m a Makita fan from way back, but they don’t build a decent battery nailer yet. I’ve ended up with Milwaukee nailers and have had excellent luck with them.
+1 for this!
Was AEG (Ridgid) when I started out, but the purchase of a cordless track saw took me to Makita (Milwaukee didn't do one at the time). Then came a framing nailer, so added Milwaukee to the mix. Then a decent affordable cordless random orbital sander, so Bosch. A few new tool purchases and upgrades later and I'm on 8 battery platforms.
Yes, the initial investment of a new battery and charger costs, but I never buy these stand alone, always in kits (way cheaper) and once you're on multiple platforms not only does it open up so many tool options, but also increases the battery to tool ratio (i.e. If I stuck wth 1 platform I doubt I would have purchased 20+ batteries. I'd probably have like 6 to split between about 30 tools.
Anyway, my philosophy is, ignore platform loyalty, buy the best tool (within budget) for the job.
Fair enough. But this advice is primarily for folks who haven’t really bought any. I agree some tools are better in different brands, but beginners won’t really appreciate that distinction as much as they will being able to just swap a battery out and keep going.
I always hated the buy once cry once mentality. "If you dont spent 30k on woodworking tools youre not a real woodworker"
If its cool and i want it.. i usualy buy it 😂😂😂 who needs 3x festool sanders? Not me. Who owns a rotex150. Ets 150/3 and 5
Also me ❤❤ haha
Hahaha! I feel that. And the great thing about it (and what I was going for in the video) is that maybe that's right for you and your current budget. My hope is to encourage the folks who want to get into this expensive hobby and make cool stuff without breaking the bank or feeling like they wasted money like I have at times. Would love having a Festool EC150 though (if you're wanting to get rid of one) 🙃
100%👍
Thanks for watching!
Tormek, completely worthless over complicated machine I could have been fine with 120 dollar in diamond stones
Oof yeah I’ve looked at that one. Probably good if you’re offering sharpening as a service or something but likely not for the average hobbyist or even light pro maker.
Absolutely, I've bought several sharpening 'solutions'. Each one, we are told, a game changer. Honestly, though, most of the time, I find myself using sandpaper and a strop I made from the back of an old leather sofa that was being chucked out. As for the Trend, Veritas jigs, and Japanese water stones - bought in Japan - well, I'm not happy exposing expensive items to the 'sticky fingered' environment of a building site.
Of course, I'm not a cabinetmaker, but my chisels have always been sharp enough to do the job.
The Tormek is my favorite sharpening tool. Once you get the hang of it, it makes sharpening fast and reliable.
Mike Farrington’s new sharpening jig and a good stone is all you need. ruclips.net/video/wLMZdd33XDo/видео.htmlsi=win5F5aXKx3EKGyI
Grizzly has inexpensive version of tormek. Need to spend time truing stone. I have had mine for 10+ years and never tempted to buy tormek.
You know you can make small stuff on a big lathe too, but the opposite does not hold true.
He probably knows, but in his advice to people like me, next to no budget and a single car garage, thinking about your form factor usability is what he’s trying to impart. A big lathe sounds awesome to me. But I’m not about to build anything that large anytime soon, even if I want to. I’m not about to do anything that needs a lathe. I still want one. He’s just trying to help noobs like me make good value choices.
Thanks brother James you got it 💯. My buddy @scottlanier does incredible turning projects (check out his channel 😁) and he absolutely needs the diameter capacity that his full size lathe can handle. So yeah it’s about what you need to do.
Don't go Cheap on a a sander, The vibration in a cheap sander will make you regret buying it, and wont be able to do extended sanding sessions.
I would counterpoint that it’s cheap paper you don’t want. I’ve been wanting to upgrade my $40 Dewalt to a Festool or Mirka brand sander but since I’ve started buying nicer paper (like the 3M Cubitron) I rarely think about sanding that much.
But I’ve also never spent so much time sanding as when I’ve used the cheap crap that Powertec sells on Amazon. Total junk.
So I’d say good sand paper and definitely use dust extraction and it’ll save you more headaches than just a fancy sander without those two.
My $15 el cheapo sander killed my hands. What should I get
You seem hung up on Jessum. Overpriced to the max. Hongdui miter guage from Banggood is a better guage for way less $. Banggood probably sells a good doweling jig that out performs the Jessum too.
Maybe I’ll have to try them out. But I’ve had plenty of other failed purchases from cheap overseas companies too so I guess you just stick with what you know is a safe bet. I’ll agree they’re expensive tools but I find it hard to say it’s overpriced because I’m really satisfied with how they perform. It feels worth it to me.
Jessem is not made in China by a Chinese company, that’s why it’s expensive.
Well duh. Point is: even though Jessum is more expensive, it is not made as well. The Chinese made Hongdui is better and costs less. Understand now?
@@robertmceuen3630 zero chance 😂🤦♂️
@@Adam-zw1ckyeah woodpecker and jessum are way better than temu brands
Thanks for the advice .. by the way, I see many crypto scammers in comments section :)
Thank you! Yeah I deleted a bunch earlier. I'll keep a look out!
Odd. RUclips has changed. It's hard to understand who your audience is supposed to be. It's as though this video is filled with advice you wish you could give to yourself five years ago. Thing is, most people are _not_ in a position to dump tens-of-thousands on woodworking equipment. The gumption to even do such a thing is borderline arrogance, especially since every single process in the craft can be accomplished with lower-value equipment first as a test-run to see whether or not it's worth it. Weird flex, as they say.
The strange irony here is that (DIY) RUclips has created a niche for guys like you, and over the last decade it has begun to idealize reckless behavior like this. Planes on display and such, as though people _need_ to own & revere them. On a personal level, I hope you make it locally in your business, but I'm afraid you're a victim of our video culture; high-end wood stuff is _not_ a hot market on average. "Woodworking," as it is traditionally conceived and accomplished, is a dust-on-the-floor enterprise borne of forced resourcefulness and cheap materials; it has not been the sterile, surgical-tooled, specialist-only nonsense we see being suggested here. With respect, you're making wood furniture, not a Mars rover. Please don't take any of this as an insult to your craftsmanship. And neither am I dismissing the usefulness of learned precision. I was just earlier to this 'look what I did' party, and the change feels strange. Just be careful where you invest your values, especially if you're doing it for the presentation. Try to imagine who's really watching, and why.
Thanks for your thoughtful response to the video. I didn't mean to come across as arrogant or "look what I did" at all. My goal in sharing the 30k number was to point out that I've learned from all my purchasing - to share that I got carried away by all the flashy stuff too and know its tempting. I'm hoping to inspire people yes to buy tools but to think about how to approach it with wisdom I didn't have 5 years ago. Maybe I am a victim of video culture. But I am also incredibly inspired by some of the amazing stuff I've watched people make and only because of this video culture have I been able to learn and dream and design pieces of my own that I wouldn't have made otherwise. And you're right, it's not a hot market. It's a struggle to make high-end furniture profitably.
I don't think anyone needs any of my fancy tools. And those hand planes are displayed on my wall that way, because they're $35 and $85 antique Stanley planes I bought on eBay and restored myself and use frequently. It's not a flex. I revere them only because they were the first tools that inspired me to try woodworking and because they point back to an era of woodworking that wasn't about flashy routers and brand name stuff.
And to your first point, the audience for this video is beginner woodworkers who don't have a room full of tools yet, but who are, yes, like me 5 years ago itching to build out a shop and make stuff and buy tools but are also prone to getting carried off by the video culture you mention. Thanks again for watching.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking First: you don't "look arrogant or 'look what I did' at all." That's not you; that's our video culture, and its expectations. Second, you're totally right that this same video culture can be inspiring. All of us watching (RUclips builds & how-to's) now have a wider imagination for what's possible. Third, I'm generalizing, and not so much pointing at you as I think out loud here. You are no plane-worshiper. Not even close.
But here's where I get to the point of my criticism: if you're _really_ making videos with the beginner in mind, then don't you think this stuff is a little bit impractical? For example, how is a track-saw (used once every other month) better than a DIY saw-board, or for that matter, a simple aluminum straightedge and a circular saw with a sharp blade? For the beginner, it's not, and their money would be far better spent on clamps, router bits, and sandpaper. And I _still_ use a contractor's table-saw! Well-tuned, of course. Though I'm considering an old Delta.
Nice meeting you, and top-quality presentation, by the way. I really have no right being critical of you. Just drinking coffee and thinking.
Thanks it’s nice talking with you too. I’ll take your thought about really for beginners and think on it. Yes there are plenty of bits of advice I could give that would be for the absolute beginner. And maybe I’ll make that video as a follow up to this one. Those tricks served me well for a while but I always found them lacking in accuracy, which led me to these upgrades along the way. There’s a ton more I could have said on this subject to beginners because I’ve learned a ton more by actually doing woodworking vs just watching videos about it, to your point. I did make this video to speak to the Star-eyed youtube viewer of this niche who thinks they have to go out and buy every tool they see because that was me, before I even knew what I wanted to focus on making.
@pocket: surely you have better things to do this morning.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Okay, I don't want to overstay my welcome, but I've already started offering unsolicited advice, so here goes. Maybe you should just own the professional thing. I mean, there's already TONS of beginner woodworking content out here, but not that many really tell pros what not to do. Neutral sells too well. You're a fancy enough carpenter that if you tell me what to do, I might listen! Or argue. Either way, it's a win for your content's engagement. Not saying this is you, but I don't really need to see any more spineless shills who're just trying to get views and sponsorship revenue by showing me high-end equip; I need to see techniques, skill, and new (old) ideas.
In my experience, there _are_ no good new woodworking ideas. The best tricks are ancient. Consider that there were already waterwheel belt-driven furniture shops millennia ago. With that in mind, our nylon pocket-hole jigs and knurled-brass marking gauge knobs seem comparatively less innovative.
Okay, back to work. I'm sure you'll make great content. I promise to come back and check. Good luck.
Lots of big words us cabinet makers don't understand. Glad you had $30k on tools; I'm sure this makes your products very expensive (more than need be).
Thanks for watching. 👋
What big words?
Try slowing down the playback speed