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Thanks! So glad it helped!

The idea is to get it to lay flat again on its own and then secure it in place to the base before it can move again. Since attaching panels to a base (in case of a top) is usually one of the last things you do during assembly, Id also suggest that the next thing is to get it into a climate controlled environment where the humidity will also change less than in a non-controlled shop. If you do those things, the combination of those elements will probably keep it flat even if its tendency would be to move again. As for the thickness, I just did this again with a top that was over 30mm and it worked great. Just takes longer.

Did it work for you?

Awesome! Let me know how it goes!

Very cool you’re making something for Fathers Day. I hope it works well for you!

I 100% agree. What marks we use is far less important than just developing a workflow for making those decisions and checkpoints prior to drilling. Thanks for watching!

If it was allowed to dry evenly on a flat set of stickers, it will not necessarily return to its cupped form. Keep in mind the scenario I’m suggesting this method for is specifically when the panel was prevented from experiencing air flow evenly on both sides. That is the condition that encourages cupping toward one side. I don’t suggest this method will work for every case but in mine, the top panel is still fairly flat.

@@sturdyboneswoodworking Thanks a lot! I was also curious if this works for curving the panel in both x and y axons but I guess it has to do with the wood grain. I will try it myself soon. Cheers!

Thank you! I’m really enjoying it and looking forward to doing more.

Haha. Thanks. Worked hard on that performance.

Thanks for watching!

It’s possible but in general I’d say this method is for unfinished panels. When we apply oils, paints, or varnishes to wood, it fills the pores in the wood making it less likely that wetting down the material will allow it to flatten back out.

@@sturdyboneswoodworking oh yeah! it's unfinished wood, i forgot to mention :)

I think it would not work as well. It would depend on what sort of oil was used and whether it had fully cured. This method depends on the woods tendency to cup toward the dry side so it’s encouraging the convex side to be the dry side and not allowing the concave to dry as quickly. If the oil has totally sealed the wood grain such that no moisture can move through the surface, it may not work.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Most likely this will not work on a large slab. For one you’d have to get it much wetter than just a damp towel. Second, if you were able to get the fibers wet enough to relax in a big thick slab, you would have to have a plan to clamp it flat and allow air to flow around it until it dried evenly, and even then, it might return to its cupped or warped shape. For large slabs the best way to get them flat, assuming they’re rough and have enough thickness, is to flatten it with a router sled and spoil bit.

It could still move again but chances are if it was originally flat and only moved due to unequal drying rates on different sides, it may stay fairly flat. My coffee table top was allowed to dry evenly and was then attached to the base with Z-clips and it is still pretty flat now.

I have a 132x32mm plank that is kinda warped on both sides at opposite ends. Do you reckon wrapping it completely in a wet towel would even it out?

I’m afraid not. MDF would swell up and likely never return to its original thickness when exposed to that much water. I don’t recommend it.

Thank you so much my friend!

Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!

Yes you’re right. But four will help. If we were to leave it as 2 flat spots rather than cutting away the middle of the foot it would be way worse.

Thanks Jason!! Appreciate you checking out the channel!

Wow thanks so much!

Thank you so much!

Thanks. I think so. The title might be a bit controversial sounding because of course big workbenches and assembly tables are awesome. But you definitely could get by with sawhorses with plywood on top for a while if you’re just getting started woodworking. Thanks for watching!

🤣🤣🤣🤣

Fair point. For what it’s worth, I include a section in the plans that covers alternative methods for cutting mortises and tenons, as well as ideas for materials such as the 4x4s I mentioned in the video, which would not require any milling, but would be rougher. I’ll keep this in mind, though, next time I make a video aimed at beginners.

Three would be best. But if you just leave the two flat feet, they’ll rock really badly if the contact with the floor is in the middle of the foot. So at least reducing that surface area helps some.

lol. Well thanks anyway for the comment. Cheers!

Same. Saw horses are phenomenal but if you are a woodworker, you definitely need a good (not small or light) workbench. His title is foolish and negates what his video is actually about.

He does his narrating at the solid workbench you both want. He mentions using sawhorses for specific purposes to expand its usefulness without being massive.

Well if you'd watch the video you'd know why you anyway need them ; )

I am using a Forrester II. I need to clean it more often than I do. lol. Probably about every other project, depending on the wood species I’ve used. I haven’t had this one sharpened yet but I’ve noticed a couple teeth that definitely need it. Cleaning it definitely goes a long way. I’ve heard there are great services that let you mail off your blade and ship it back nice and sharp but still need to identify a good one to recommend.

Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! I hope you enjoy those plans, too!

Sounds like a pretty good idea. Thanks for watching!

Haha. Yeah I considered drawbored dowels but felt like these only needed a little reinforcement. But you’re right it’s probably not necessary since it’s unlikely these would be subjected to much racking force. Thanks for watching!

Thank you. And so glad you enjoyed my jokes. 😁

Cool! Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much! I hope you enjoy the plans! Thanks for the subscribe and like!

Thanks so much for watching and for your thoughts on #1-2! I think you’re right about the direction of the live edge. As for red oak, I’m mostly joking but generally I just don’t like the pinkish color. It’s a fine wood to work with, but there are more enjoyable species in my opinion, and if I’m going to be inclined to alter the color, I’d generally rather pass and use something that’ll just look good with a clear finish. I’ve experimented with ebonization and tannic pre-wash before and it’s a lot of fun. Should probably mess with it more. Thanks again!!

Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks so much!

My Facebook page should let you DM me as well. Or my website has a contact form that will email me. Thanks for playing! Website is sturdyboneswoodworking.com

I think you might have some trouble cutting the tenons with a circular saw but if you’re able to clamp them upright you shouldn’t have too much trouble cutting them with a hand saw. Same for the angles on the feet and top rail - I’d use a hand saw there as well. Circular saw will be best for cutting parts to rough length. Thanks for watching!

@sturdyboneswoodworking thank you for the reply. I do have hand saws, and I will give that a go.

Thank you! Yeah I tend to make everything a bit finer than necessary. Haha. I really like all your suggestions and think they would make these way more practical. Draw bored dowels would definitely work great and allow for swapping out the top of it got damaged over time. One thing I might do with mine is just bolt or screw on a piece of MDF to the top as a replaceable spoil board. And yes, cutting a wide dado in each side of the parts before glue up could be a faster way to get those done as well, especially with a miter saw trench feature, for those without a dado stack or table saw. Thanks for watching and for your thoughts!

Thanks so much for watching! Glad I could make you smile.

I love that. I started on my back patio making furniture too. Well I hope you enjoy the plans and let me know if you have questions!

Awesome! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and playing along. Enjoy the plans and feel free to tag me in an Instagram post if you want. Would love to see how they turn out.

Thank you! I include a section in the plans that covers alternative methods with a more limited tool set. You can absolutely cut the tenons, for example with a hand saw, and the mortises with a chisel and mallet. I have linked some good videos from other great creators that cover those topics in more detail as well. I appreciate the purchase!

Hahaha. I know that feeling. Tools don’t rest well on this workbench. But you could plop a piece of plywood on top and leave all your tools out on it if you like, I suppose.

Thank you for watching! I’d love to see how your sawhorses turn out. Tag me in an Instagram post if you like: @sturdyboneswoodworking

Hahaha. Well that’s disappointing. To be honest, I didn’t actually know what a 2x4 was in the 90s; I was 4. 🤣

Thank you so much for watching and getting the plans! Please let me know how they turn out. Tag me on Instagram when you build them @sturdyboneswoodworking. Would love to see them.