Seen this on Monday, lovely monitor. I ended up buying the PVM-20M2MDE from under the desk that was in bits, now repaired and it's my bench monitor, beautiful.
If you don't have a CRT tester, it's easy to test the guns by shorting them to ground. It is highly suggested to disconnect them from the RGB output beforehand. If the gun is alive, grounding it will drive it into 100% beam current.
I have the same model. But sadly, the power button switch was destroyed by a stupid accident while transportation. The set is working perfectly otherwise, had a full recap and adjustments…but without the power button it’s impossible to start. Would you be willing to sell me the spare one for the set you’re keeping for parts for the other one? I know it sounds crazy and too specific, but why not to try. By the way, this is a great video, hope you can have a full working set. Cheers! Edit: I’ve been rewatching the entire thing, there’s something calming about you voice and just realized I’m asking you to dismantle the entire set to access the V Board and take down the part 18. (1-553-225-00 switch, push) and that’s nothing short of insane for a fellow stranger in Spain who’s just been a year in the process of learning some basic electronics and repairing CRTs prepping for the CRTpocalypse. 😢
@@ResurrectionRetro aaaaargh. I understand! Don’t worry. I’m gonna find a solution, probably extend some cables to the back, killing the front switch and find the right way to wire them. The schematics are weird. Definitely not like your consumer tv with a simple AC input that starts everything at once. But thank you so much for replying. This set is really hard to find. Keep up the good work and take care man. Don’t burnout. Much respect!
@@ResurrectionRetro I solved it with a dual switch. A normal switch for the power supply recycled from another tv, and the original front push button to power the U board. Happily, the tube started this time…. Sadly, the RV501 potentiometer on the D board that controls the H freq which was wired externally also suffered during the shipping. I think it shorted when i touched it and now I have no image. I checked the schematics and it goes straight into the jungle…. I think the set is dead in that case. And today I just bought the original ssx1 speakers that go with it. I’m devastated man.
Hi there i have same monitor. I have 2 problems. Geometry and white balance. Can u tell me how can i adjust that? postimg.cc/HjQmSZbm postimg.cc/jWQ9H9G3 Right top corner of grid.
Seen this on Monday, lovely monitor.
I ended up buying the PVM-20M2MDE from under the desk that was in bits, now repaired and it's my bench monitor, beautiful.
Yes I was going to repair it for David but personal circumstances and time stopped me
Did an amazing job on this one for us mate! We can’t wait to get it set up!
my friends parents had this in there bedroom in mid 90s, with seperate tuner box connected to it
If you don't have a CRT tester, it's easy to test the guns by shorting them to ground. It is highly suggested to disconnect them from the RGB output beforehand. If the gun is alive, grounding it will drive it into 100% beam current.
Do you have a spare smoke-glass panel from the defunct one?
Hi, Im trying to restore my KX 1901, perhaps you got the service manual? Thanks
I have the same model. But sadly, the power button switch was destroyed by a stupid accident while transportation. The set is working perfectly otherwise, had a full recap and adjustments…but without the power button it’s impossible to start. Would you be willing to sell me the spare one for the set you’re keeping for parts for the other one? I know it sounds crazy and too specific, but why not to try. By the way, this is a great video, hope you can have a full working set. Cheers!
Edit: I’ve been rewatching the entire thing, there’s something calming about you voice and just realized I’m asking you to dismantle the entire set to access the V Board and take down the part 18. (1-553-225-00 switch, push) and that’s nothing short of insane for a fellow stranger in Spain who’s just been a year in the process of learning some basic electronics and repairing CRTs prepping for the CRTpocalypse. 😢
Hi there. The broken set went off to e-waste i'm afraid..No storage here to break it up. Long gone.
You can always put two wires across the power switch terminals. measn the set always comes on when power allied but at least it starts.
@@ResurrectionRetro aaaaargh. I understand! Don’t worry. I’m gonna find a solution, probably extend some cables to the back, killing the front switch and find the right way to wire them. The schematics are weird. Definitely not like your consumer tv with a simple AC input that starts everything at once.
But thank you so much for replying. This set is really hard to find. Keep up the good work and take care man. Don’t burnout. Much respect!
@@ResurrectionRetro I’ll keep you posted on my progress anyways.
@@ResurrectionRetro I solved it with a dual switch. A normal switch for the power supply recycled from another tv, and the original front push button to power the U board. Happily, the tube started this time…. Sadly, the RV501 potentiometer on the D board that controls the H freq which was wired externally also suffered during the shipping. I think it shorted when i touched it and now I have no image. I checked the schematics and it goes straight into the jungle…. I think the set is dead in that case. And today I just bought the original ssx1 speakers that go with it. I’m devastated man.
This is essentially a PVM.
Hi there i have same monitor. I have 2 problems. Geometry and white balance. Can u tell me how can i adjust that? postimg.cc/HjQmSZbm
postimg.cc/jWQ9H9G3
Right top corner of grid.
😄 *promosm*