Reinforcing Structural Load Bearing Masonry Walls!
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- In this segment we cover how to reinforce a block masonry wall from the ground up, including reinforcing steal, grouting a block wall with concrete, and joint reinforcing.
We also cover how to tie to walls of a different angle together.
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Very simple, very good and I understood it. Understanding is most important! Thank you.
Omg, thank you so much for making and posting this video. I absolutely, positively appreciate this video.
I believe the wall would be much stronger if the rebar was tied together and made certain to not be touching any of the inside of the blocks. Add to that, a staggered normal brick design and you'd get much better 3-D strength. I don't know why anyone would stack bricks right on top of each other. That's needlessly throwing away a lot of strength, it seems to me.
SteveBowen
Well, you're wrong. If it wasn't safe or if it wasn't strong, engineers would not allow it. I been a mason for 20 years and I see and work on buildings with the stack bond. It's the same strength when grouted and reinforced with rebar.
When all the cores are filled it becomes solid. It makes no difference to concrete if you place some blocks horizontally and others vertically in a wall, so long as all the cores are filled.
why not touching any of the inside of the block?
Wilk Yahzee Exactly bro! Different stacks for different looks. What matters is the ability to place horizontal and vertical rebar within the system. The main principal is the poured central columns in the blocks. This is what the wall serves..."compressive" strength. As long as the wall has engineered structural integrity , the cosmetics are up to the owner. I have seen the blocks used as double up so that a structural column is formed in line with wall integrated. Using a quad core column principal gives well enough compressive strength for construction of 1 or 2 level construction.
It's still less shear strength than staggered even if that would be superfluous
This man is the living brick
6.04 why is the block laid that way without a bond? In the U.K we always lay with a brick bond to spread the point load evenly.
+Skill Builder architects and designers is why.
+Learn To Lay Brick I see now. They intend the roof load to go directly down through the reinforced columns to the foundation rather than across the entire wall. It is a whole different way of doing things.
It's called a stacked bond and is for decoration purposes. Just the look. However, it's difficult to lay because it shows every "sin". Nice looking work.
If you don't tie the vertical rebar doesn't hold the strength off the wall ,you need to tie from the 4, rebar up , in order to get to structurally sound
How can i contact you?
ncma disagrees with you about tie. Why do people have a misconception that the tie wire is doing anything more than just holding it temporarily in place ???
. Reinforcement can be spliced by either contact or noncontact splices. Noncontact lap splices may be spaced as far apart as one-fifth the required length of the lap but not more than 8 in. (203 mm) per Building Code Requirements for Masonry Structures (ref. 4). This provision accommodates construction interference during installation as well as misplaced dowels. Splices are not required to be tied, however tying is often used as a means to hold bars in place.
Great video. It answered a lot of questions I had. Explained very well!
holy crap I can't believe he talked about the excess water getting sucked into the masonry. I've had to do this myself because my house has no running bond, it was like the block foundation was done by a blind crew. So when I had to work on it, and I was adding cell rebar during mud sill replacement, I ended up trying both cementall at a fluid consistency and then due to expense, just sand/topping mix, loose enough to pour. I did a lot of research and thinking about that. and I came to the same conclusion, that a lot of the extra moisture gets sucked out anyway. of course I don't think you can do anything about the shrinkage from that but I think that's a different concern. in the end it didn't seem to matter much, both "formulas" hardened up strong
Very well explained. Thanks
wow I built my wall around my house in this 4ft increment method, I thought it wasn't ideal to build the wall in sections instead of laying all the blocks and pouring it in one go.
Larry Haun of Brick
THANK YOU. Great video and explanation.
Newbie question, so please forgive me. When the rebar is laid horizontally to create a 'bond beam' - say every 4 feet vertically. When the wet concrete is poured into the cinder block does that completely fill the wall the full length of the rebar, and four feet downwards - in other words the full wall is completely filled with concrete? If my understanding is incorrect, can you please correct me? Thanks.
great question! The concrete called grout in this situation only goes down the vertical cells where the rebar is and horizontal in the the bond beam coarse. The masons put grout stop which is a paper or a netting material down to stop the grout from flowing down the cells that don't have rebar in them.
@@learntolaybrick Thanks. May I ask about another topic? In some videos I have seen, a rod penetrates the full height of the wall. At bottom it is firmly attached to the foundation - at the top side a 'threaded rod' extends above the heighest course. A special tensioning machine is used to torque this threaded rod, it applies compressive force to hold the wall 'downwards' towards the foundation. question 1- In this case - is the full length of that rod 'threaded'? or could it be rebar that has the threaded rod welded to the top portion that will be tensioned? question 2 - if the idea is to tension this rod vertically, I would assume it would need a 'free space' inside of the blocks where the rod passes through. Is my assumption correct? Or is grout poured down the very openings in the cmu where the rod passes through? One would think that if the rod were 'kinked' and not perfectly centered in the cmu block, that tensioning a kinked rod would be a stupid thing to do, as that could add a distortion to the wall. How is this issue addressed? last question - for walls that extend for a second story, what is the typical threaded rod type - diameter and threads per inch that are suggested for such a use? Thanks 'Learn to Lay Brick'.
Thanks for asking that. I was wondering the same thing. I’m guessing you can use the grout stopped cavities to run your electrical and plumbing.
Great video. Thanks for posting this! One question: Aren't the steel reinforcing bars supposed to be tied together as they are placed? Thanks again.
GREAT VIDEO !
Youngest looking old guy
What kind of earthquakes can reinforced masonry walls support?
What type of grout is it. and slump? What is the ratio. Could you provide some info about the grout mix? Thanks
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
What is the argument against building a form with rebar inside and during concrete in there? Is it just a cost thing?
what if I do a rebar tie in every line of block instead of every 4 feet
then you will have an extra strong wall
Very nice video.so much info.thanks.keep up the good work.
Don't know why I landed here. But that's a good video. The mountains in the background remind me of Utah Valley, possibly Provo?
Good eye. We have built many masonry structures in the valley since the 70's
How can I add one block on each side of my carport to put a garage door up
Good instructional video! Did you cover mortar protrusions? Did you consolidate the grout twice? Due to the CMU absorbing the water, its a code requirement to reconsolidate a second time...as an inspector I always get push back on consolidating the walls twice. haha
Working on getting my resid. permit. What is consolidating grout ?
This was a government job for a school many many years ago. Im sure they did all the work according to code at that time!!
Are poured concrete or filled blocks stronger.
Very helpful
Thanks. Useful information.
I look to build a 110x50 x16 tall how much does a company cost to lay the,block if I buy all the think they need ?
how do you retrofit to make it load bearing?
Cut slots in block. Epoxy rebar to concrete footing then extend rebar up slot and grout entire slot.
Sir
Can you talk on Mortarless masonry technology please
Hempcrete!
One question if you don't mind . I'm wanting to build a block wall for a koi pond about 6 or 7 course high. Is it best to mortar the joints or dry stack the block and fill holes with concrete. Thanks.
As with pools, its better to mortar and bond the blocks, Bro. Cut the bottom inner block face away so that cement pour will be one continual flow through with rebar. Full core fill will give a bowl effect to pond concrete finish with great strength. You can also cut back top block outer face if you want added strength with a bigger beam. Same connection to wall and floor then.
What if I am only doing a single line of brick for a 12x12 shed?
Reinforcement of walls are necessary for structural walls or important structures. Also not necessary for temporary structures
So it is code compliant to grout in lifts?
yes as long as the rebar extends 2 ft out of each lift
How much the brick price? that more cheaper than R.C.C methode ?
Good video
I hate laying 12s over the bent rods
Awesome
Is joint reinforcing used on each course of block?
+ant cen Consult local building codes. Up here in Alberta, Canada joint reinforcing wire is spaced 400mm on stack bond and 600mm on running bond
Every other course (Every 16")
What would be the major factors in choosing block over formed Concrete? I'm assuming cost but how much of a difference are we talking?
dummy
May i know how i can contact you?
No way in hell I will watch not one commercial, but TWO!!!! I don't care what it is that I could have learned. Moving on to something else.
👍
GROUT ME A GROUT
Good video but concrete is almost NEVER poured at a 3 inch slump. Lol. That would be ridiculous.
With very porous blocks the water is absorbed, squished out very quickly, so the concrete is not that wet for long, if using a vibrator the water is expelled even quicker, and the hardening starts
Тнаnк уоu
I am worthless... Dont know nothing.
I look to build a 110x50 x16 tall how much does a company cost to lay the,block if I buy all the think they need ?