I have a 2013 KTM 300XC that came with electric start so I did not need to wire in a rectifier. It worked great. I bought the 2016-17 Acerbis headlight and it mounted right up
On my 2018 carb model 300xcw, I wired the headlight switch directly to the battery with an inline fuse. If I happen to stall, I won’t be left in the dark as I’m coasting down the trail. Also handy for setting up camp when dirt bike camping. Acerbis light is hard to beat for the price
I think they made a change in 2016 or 2017. On mine, the DC side of the stator doesn’t put out enough watts to power the light, which would cause my battery to not charge up if running the light off the battery
All the links should be in the description, but I got the connectors on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPS3ZBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Added the same light to my 250 xcw. Similar setup except I used a cheap $10 rectifier from ebay. Its water proof and after a year still good. I added a capacitor as well. I heard it was and wasn't needed but also heard without it the LEDs life expectancy would be cut short so I decided to add it. Does the baja design have a rectifier built in capacitor? Also highly recommend the Acerbis light.
Care to share the $10 Rectifier you went with? Got a 19' 150 XCW that I bought an led for and it is flickering like a turn signal. I assume this is my problem as well.
@@SANDS78 search for this in ebay: LED RECTIFIER - AC to DC LED CONVERTER USA FULL WAVE 3 Amp. Tight now it is saying $15.99 but last year I didnt pay that much. It is a little black box with 4 wires.
@@PlushEnduro i no longer have s as n excuse to be afraid to ride at night 😂 This light was $115 at Slavens, which is cheap compared to similar lights. I wonder if they make one they would fit the Beta?
This was awesome thanks! Do you have any more detail on how you rewired that on-off switch into it? I wish it came with a toggle switch already set up. Ordering the rectifier today but not quite sure from your video how you actually wired up that on off switch. Thanks!
Thanks! And i guess i should have gone into a little more detail on the switch. There was already two wires with plugs for a switch on the wiring harness, so i just cut that off and put on a new plug. But all it does is interrupts one of the wires coming into the stator.
Planning on installing one on my 2012 ktm 300 xc-w. Is that a 2017+ front fender? I know most of the plastics from the slightly updated 2014's fit the 12 so I was going to get a kit, just wondering if I need an even newer fender for the mask to sit right.
Is it harmful to not use a rectifier? I was able to plug my factory harness into the light and the factory plugs for the switch into a switch and it worked.
@@haydensturch537 mine is a 2014, and i believe in 2016 or 2017 the two strokes were wired to accept a 12v light. Which would be why yours works fine. Im not sure if they beefed up the 12v side of the stator or put a rectifier in them, but from what I’ve seen 2017 and newer bikes were plug n play. With the exception of the TPI sx and xc models,
Thank you for the video, I’m currently installing the same light and setup on my 2016 XC. My switch, however, came with three wires and when I plug everything in nothing works. Does the 3 wire switch have an effect on this or have I done something incorrect somewhere else?
I just watched your video. I’ll go through a couple things, if you’ve already done them i apologize, I’m just brain storming: 1: make sure the wires in your plugs are aligned. The 4 prong plugs were off on mine, i had to move one of the wires. On the output side of the rectifier make sure red goes to red and black to black. 2: the input side of the rectifier isn’t polarity sensitive, but they do need to be aligned. 3: since your switch is a 3 wire, it would be worth it to test continuity with a colt meter to be sure which two wires compete the circuit. I’ll watch your video again and see if i think of anything else.
@@CrashHardEnduro that was fast! Ok 1.red is on red and black is on black 2.if you are referring to the yellow and white wired connector- I made no adjustment to it or the receiving end that is connected to the bike with 3 wires. I’m outnumbered by wires on the bike side, so I don’t know how to align them any differently. Do I have to loop one into another prong to slide into the connector? 3. Great idea, I will give that a shot.
@@adamo7777 LOL i just happened to be sitting on the couch playing on my phone and got a notification for your comment hahaha I’m out of town or i would look at my bike, so I’ll have to do this from memory. IIRC the power from the stator is coming out of two wires, the yellow and and brown, and again they are not polarity sensitive. The yellow and white are together on one plug (for the switch), then the white bounces over to the plug with the brown. The switch closes the circuit between the yellow and white allowing it to go to the plug with the brown. You might have to move the black “sleeve” things the wires are in to make sure you’re tracing the correct wires since there are multiple white wires for some reason. Also, making sure you know which two wires complete the circuit on your switch will be helpful. Make sure the brown wire in the factory plug lines up with one of the wires in the BD rectifier plug. The yellow wire for the factory switch plug should allow power to the switch, and then the white wire would allow the power to leave the switch and match up with the other plug on the BD rectifier. I hope i explained that to where it makes sense.
My 2017 KTM 300 XCW has a on/off switch by the spedometer. I am assuming that it is in a series and wont effect anything, and I won't have to worry about installing a switch. Is this correct?
I’m honestly not totally sure. Read thru one of the comment threads below. It looks like KTM made changes in 2016, so your install might be slightly different than mine.
@@CrashHardEnduro nice job on the quick reply. This has been on my back burner for a while (but hey it looks good and I ride during the day!) I would assume it’s in series circuit but will compare wiring diagrams from our bikes. Thanks!
@@robertsmith1581 I did the same thing on my 2017 250 xcw. I used the wires the old light used so the original light switch is reused. Dead easy install in reality. Go for it. Great light for the money.
So I’m not 100% sure but i don’t think so. Best i can tell in that era of 2strokes, the XC and XCW came with the same stator and wire harness. The SX however did not. It’s has a smaller output stator and i believe different wire harness. Presumably for weight savings on the sx model. If there’s a plug behind your number plate you might have the wiring. But likely you would need to upgrade your stator and get some type of wiring to the front.
@@richardcabitto5108 yeah man, glad i could help. I don’t know what models they made in the 150, but if they made an XC and XCW, you might be able to get a stator and wire harness off one of those and put it in your SX.
I have the stock stator. The light runs off the AC side, which is why i needed the rectifier. The AC side of the puts out 70 watts which is plenty for the light and then some. The DC side only puts out 30 watts, which is fine to charge the battery, but not much else.
I have a 2013 KTM 300XC that came with electric start so I did not need to wire in a rectifier. It worked great. I bought the 2016-17 Acerbis headlight and it mounted right up
Did you connect the lights plug into the stock AC headlight plug?
On my 2018 carb model 300xcw, I wired the headlight switch directly to the battery with an inline fuse. If I happen to stall, I won’t be left in the dark as I’m coasting down the trail. Also handy for setting up camp when dirt bike camping. Acerbis light is hard to beat for the price
I think they made a change in 2016 or 2017. On mine, the DC side of the stator doesn’t put out enough watts to power the light, which would cause my battery to not charge up if running the light off the battery
I did the same thing, fuse and switch straight off of the battery. No issues on my 2015 300 xc.
What amp fuse did you use?
Nice job. Getting ready to add a stock ktm light on my 2019 250xc. This helps.🤙🏼
Clean install. Very thorough detailed instructions. 👍🏼
Thanks! And thanks for watching. Hope it was helpful.
Best channel on RUclips by far!!!!
Thanks!
I didn't see the links in posted in here. I'm really curious were you found the connectors mainly.
All the links should be in the description, but I got the connectors on Amazon.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPS3ZBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@CrashHardEnduro Thank you! I did find it all in the description, very helpful.
@@bretthuelsman2655 good I’m glad it helped!
Could i make this work on my kdx 200? With the rectifier?
Added the same light to my 250 xcw. Similar setup except I used a cheap $10 rectifier from ebay. Its water proof and after a year still good. I added a capacitor as well. I heard it was and wasn't needed but also heard without it the LEDs life expectancy would be cut short so I decided to add it. Does the baja design have a rectifier built in capacitor? Also highly recommend the Acerbis light.
Care to share the $10 Rectifier you went with? Got a 19' 150 XCW that I bought an led for and it is flickering like a turn signal. I assume this is my problem as well.
@@SANDS78 search for this in ebay: LED RECTIFIER - AC to DC LED CONVERTER USA FULL WAVE 3 Amp. Tight now it is saying $15.99 but last year I didnt pay that much. It is a little black box with 4 wires.
@@Stimmer6253472 thank you!
Thanks for uploading this video!
Yeah man! Hope it was helpful
Man that thing IS bright!
Yeah it’s crazy bright. Especially considering the price point.
@@CrashHardEnduro the beta factory one is pretty spendy. Big reason why I’m not trying to ride at night!
@@PlushEnduro i no longer have s as n excuse to be afraid to ride at night 😂
This light was $115 at Slavens, which is cheap compared to similar lights.
I wonder if they make one they would fit the Beta?
This was awesome thanks! Do you have any more detail on how you rewired that on-off switch into it? I wish it came with a toggle switch already set up. Ordering the rectifier today but not quite sure from your video how you actually wired up that on off switch. Thanks!
Thanks! And i guess i should have gone into a little more detail on the switch. There was already two wires with plugs for a switch on the wiring harness, so i just cut that off and put on a new plug. But all it does is interrupts one of the wires coming into the stator.
Hey man, great video! I was also wondering, where did you those mounts that mount the hand guard to the handlebar clamp?
They’re Cycra brand. I think I got them from Rockymountainatvmc.com
What rectifier did you use ?
Do you have the part number for rectifier with ktm plugs on it ,nice clean job
I don’t. If you call Baja Designs and tell them you want the one with KTM plugs they’ll send it to you.
They don’t list it on their website.
@@CrashHardEnduro awSome vid and thanks for answering that, ill call them for sure
Do you think I could fit this headlight on a 85SX ?
Planning on installing one on my 2012 ktm 300 xc-w. Is that a 2017+ front fender? I know most of the plastics from the slightly updated 2014's fit the 12 so I was going to get a kit, just wondering if I need an even newer fender for the mask to sit right.
Yeah you’ll want the 2017+ front fender to match the shape of the light.
Is it harmful to not use a rectifier? I was able to plug my factory harness into the light and the factory plugs for the switch into a switch and it worked.
What year is your bike?
My understanding is the LED light doesn’t love AC power.
@@CrashHardEnduro it’s a 2019 Husky TX carb. It flashes a little when I shut the bike off but seems to run fine
@@haydensturch537 mine is a 2014, and i believe in 2016 or 2017 the two strokes were wired to accept a 12v light. Which would be why yours works fine. Im not sure if they beefed up the 12v side of the stator or put a rectifier in them, but from what I’ve seen 2017 and newer bikes were plug n play.
With the exception of the TPI sx and xc models,
Thank you for the video, I’m currently installing the same light and setup on my 2016 XC. My switch, however, came with three wires and when I plug everything in nothing works. Does the 3 wire switch have an effect on this or have I done something incorrect somewhere else?
ruclips.net/video/LNksSKLgW6o/видео.html
I posted a video of my situation, any help anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated. I’m brand new to riding, so please have mercy on mistakes!
I just watched your video. I’ll go through a couple things, if you’ve already done them i apologize, I’m just brain storming:
1: make sure the wires in your plugs are aligned. The 4 prong plugs were off on mine, i had to move one of the wires. On the output side of the rectifier make sure red goes to red and black to black.
2: the input side of the rectifier isn’t polarity sensitive, but they do need to be aligned.
3: since your switch is a 3 wire, it would be worth it to test continuity with a colt meter to be sure which two wires compete the circuit.
I’ll watch your video again and see if i think of anything else.
@@CrashHardEnduro that was fast! Ok
1.red is on red and black is on black
2.if you are referring to the yellow and white wired connector- I made no adjustment to it or the receiving end that is connected to the bike with 3 wires. I’m outnumbered by wires on the bike side, so I don’t know how to align them any differently. Do I have to loop one into another prong to slide into the connector?
3. Great idea, I will give that a shot.
@@adamo7777 LOL i just happened to be sitting on the couch playing on my phone and got a notification for your comment hahaha
I’m out of town or i would look at my bike, so I’ll have to do this from memory.
IIRC the power from the stator is coming out of two wires, the yellow and and brown, and again they are not polarity sensitive. The yellow and white are together on one plug (for the switch), then the white bounces over to the plug with the brown. The switch closes the circuit between the yellow and white allowing it to go to the plug with the brown.
You might have to move the black “sleeve” things the wires are in to make sure you’re tracing the correct wires since there are multiple white wires for some reason.
Also, making sure you know which two wires complete the circuit on your switch will be helpful.
Make sure the brown wire in the factory plug lines up with one of the wires in the BD rectifier plug. The yellow wire for the factory switch plug should allow power to the switch, and then the white wire would allow the power to leave the switch and match up with the other plug on the BD rectifier.
I hope i explained that to where it makes sense.
My 2017 KTM 300 XCW has a on/off switch by the spedometer. I am assuming that it is in a series and wont effect anything, and I won't have to worry about installing a switch. Is this correct?
I’m honestly not totally sure. Read thru one of the comment threads below. It looks like KTM made changes in 2016, so your install might be slightly different than mine.
@@CrashHardEnduro nice job on the quick reply. This has been on my back burner for a while (but hey it looks good and I ride during the day!) I would assume it’s in series circuit but will compare wiring diagrams from our bikes. Thanks!
@@robertsmith1581 I did the same thing on my 2017 250 xcw. I used the wires the old light used so the original light switch is reused. Dead easy install in reality. Go for it. Great light for the money.
@@Stimmer6253472 Did you also need a recifier? I have the same bike as you.
@@mbrick yes if you have pre TPI bike a rectifier is needed. I bought a $10 one off of ebay.
Did it flicker on tickover? Any long term issues? Got my vsl coming this week for my 2010 ✌️🙌🙌
You used the 14 front fender with the 17 headlight ?
I used the newer style, 17+, front fender to match the shape and color of the headlight.
Haha. "4strokes you guys are on your own"
Gonna do this on my 06 300xcw
Would this same set up work on my 2012 KTM SX150? Thanks for sharing this! CHEERS!
So I’m not 100% sure but i don’t think so.
Best i can tell in that era of 2strokes, the XC and XCW came with the same stator and wire harness. The SX however did not. It’s has a smaller output stator and i believe different wire harness. Presumably for weight savings on the sx model.
If there’s a plug behind your number plate you might have the wiring.
But likely you would need to upgrade your stator and get some type of wiring to the front.
Thanks for the quick reply man! Loving the look of yours! I’ll have to check it out but pretty sure there’s no wires there! Lol!
@@richardcabitto5108 yeah man, glad i could help.
I don’t know what models they made in the 150, but if they made an XC and XCW, you might be able to get a stator and wire harness off one of those and put it in your SX.
whos other KTM is that in the back lol i never seen it
That’s a friend’s 350. I helped him do some work on it. He just keeps it here since he doesn’t have a truck or anything to haul it 😂😂😂
Great video!
Thanks! When you coming up to go riding? 😁
Is the stock stator enough to run this while charging the battery?
I have the stock stator.
The light runs off the AC side, which is why i needed the rectifier. The AC side of the puts out 70 watts which is plenty for the light and then some.
The DC side only puts out 30 watts, which is fine to charge the battery, but not much else.
😪 why am i struggling to make this work on my 2010 exc300? 🙌😄
👍
Why do I feel like I know you🤔