Man when I saw how the tuning affected the way the paper was moving from side to side kind of blew my mind. I mean I know how it works but just being able to physically see it was so satisfying. I love it man. Keep up the great work and content. Thanks for sharing.
True. But when it got lower the plexiglass was flexing a lot. It was nice to see it in action though, but I’m glad he made a solid top. This is a nice box, awesome for a 6.5 single sub. I’d love to have that bandwidth
I absolutely love 6th orders, as you can see from my profile pic I have 8 12's in a series 6th order wall. I have my small chamber (rear) tuned to 24hz and my large (front) chamber tuned to 48hz. I do a 160db@23hz and a 162.3db@36hz. From 20hz-70hz I never drop below 158db. It has crazy bandwidth, sure I could build a flat wall and be louder but I like to demo and having that kind of bandwidth is amazing. I can play down to 17hz also and still be at a 154db.
I'd love to see it too. 6th order has been on my mind lately for my daily driver, hate to go thru the trouble of buying mdf, building the box and having it not meet my expectations how well does it compare to a sealed enclosure?
Nice I had a huge 6th order and 1 under powered xmaxxx monster 15 and I loved it my peek was 24hz lol I did 148db at 24hz sealed at the headrest and 142db at 19hz sealed at the headrest and my meeter won't read below 19hz so idk what it did but I could play down to 16hz before losing compression
Great concept and a very informative demonstration to watch. Regardless if it's parallel or not it's still a sixth order bandpass with efficiency gains across the board. Thank you for all the time and effort to give us bass heads what we crave.👍👊🙏
When I was in college in the 90's my uncle gave me a box he pulled from a trade in car at his dealership. It was small carpeted box sealed on all sides but had a 4" PVC port sticking out of a small box about 4 inches long. It played louder and lower than anything I had heard at the time and was a single Orion Cobalt sub inside that box. Love 6th Orders, deep and clean.
This is nothing new but well demonstrated. Bose Acoustimass AM5 bass module is built in this parallel 6th order. 30 years old AM5 and it is still working in my computer room attached to my PC amp. Off course Bose AM5 bass module is tuned much higher (40-120 Hz) and the roll of on 40 is very steep but the principle is the same. They managed to make a very small box with 2 X 5-1/2" drivers and they put the driver's panel on the angle so they can make the box even smaller. Very smart. On the angle the driver panel can get the bigger diameter drivers keeping the top and bottom of the box the same distance. Very primitive with only 2 port tubes but it works. Now after I saw this video I am thinking of building the replacement bass box for my AM5 with lower tuning frequency. Building the box will not be a problem but finding the right drivers for it, that is another story. Looking at your presentation I can see the huge Xmax on your CT driver and while it is OK for a higher frequencies (40 and over) I dont like when the driver is moving so much at the lower frequencies. Something is not right in calculation for the under 30Hz in box design as it seems to me the driver is close to the Fs in that range. I know CT can handle it because of its huge Xmax capabilities, but it shouldn't on lower frequencies... Only my opinion, I may be wrong. Either way thanks for this presentation it made mi think about it now.
This reminds me of a 1990’s 6th order bandbass unit B-8 or B-10 by a company called Collins Sun Electronics or Collins USA. I had the B-8 and that had a port on one side and a smaller port on the other and it 8” sub would take and sound REALLY AMAZING with a Punch 200 bridged to 900w RMS. Nonody would believe me when I tole them it was 1 -8” speaker 🔊. Their enclosures were black laminate with Fleckstone “granite speckled end caps. Some even came self amplified. They had tubes and cubes but the rectangular B-8 & B-10 were my favorite with almost ZERO distortion. Simply amazing and ai love this channel because this man builds things that I haven’t seen in a LONG TIME like the one with the “Infinite Baffle” aka Free Air 18’s so awesome! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
That was a really ammazing way to show what really happens in the enclosure!!!...I now understand so much more by just watching the airflow with the tuning device in frame, at the same time with an easy clear explanation of what is happening, the why, the how, the when, even the if!!..lol !!..Great job!!!..👍.
Man absolutely loved this video. Thank you for going through the trouble and work. I tune all my ported enclosures to 25Hz or if it’s only a 10” I may go to 29Hz. I listen to the low stuff. I have 2 trucks with blow throughs. You have motivated me to try a 6th in my daily. Currently enjoying my 2nd year with a 4th type and ready for something new.
So I new the concept of how it works but to see it in action working the way it should was pretty awsome!! Nice job and thanks for taking the time to show us viewers. Def appreciated!
This is the first I fully understand how the port tuning works. I knew how to make it work, but didn’t know what was happening. The confetti was a great idea to show how the frequency moves through.
Awesome vid! Visual affect of “confetti test” brought simplicity to what is sometimes difficult for people to visualize! Great real world tests, parameters, and applications!
Looking out, you should get one of them IM-SG tools for figuring out your enclosure tuning and see how far off your enclosure building program is from real world test. If you went with a higher tuning, your 6th Order for sure would have outperformed the bass reflex enclosure. HexiBase has a good breakdown of the 6th order operation of both parallel and series. The point of the 6th order is to give 2 tuning peaks, in which you can EQ your peaks to flatten a response across a wider table than a traditional 4th order bandpass (ratio defendant as well 1:1 2:1 3:1 and so on) efficiently. Which is where the 6th order bandpass order came from. Porting the sealed chamber in the 4th order.
@@mikehonda7934 The IM-SG+ is a $450 device and he already has the tools that can duplicate its function. So not a good investment. I'd suggest a DATS that will plot the impedance curve on a graph. They are only $130.
@@JasonWW2000 it is a good investment if you are into what Budget does. Yes the DATS does the same, but on the fly, the DATS is useless and you’ll be guessing. Do some research on the unit I mentioned, and you’ll understand it does more than what the DATS does. D’Amore Engineering has a few segments it’s design and features. Put together all of what you say he has, since you know him apparently, and get a tally up and tell me how much it comes up too. Minus the computer you need to use the DATS.
Great job and effort and putting the work in! You do alot of testing that I have always wanted to do using a very scientific method. Kuddos to you sir.
It's not that surprising that you smell the woofer using the reflex box. You really need an infrasonic filter to keep it from unloading below the tuning frequency. Win isd also has an excursion chart that shows when the woofer will bottom out (if you input the xmax) of course your first box is tuned so low you'll never have a problem. Great video!
When it unloads the coil leaves the gap and it heats it up so the further the coil is away from the magnet the hotter the coil is gonna get so if you keep the subwoofer within the tuning frequency of the box it keeps the coil centered within the gap and it keeps it cooler and it also increases bl.
I know a guy who turns his subs differently. He had two 15s and he has one box at 25 and one 35. He’s the only person I’ve see do it. I’m sure others have.
I don’t don’t understand how firing them at the trunk makes it louder, yet people say trunk wall is better than that. But I know facing forward isn’t as good. So idk how sealing it off facing the cab makes it better.
How low can you go. Pretty impressive for a small driver. This would work amazingly well with a bigger driver or 2 drivers side by side to create the width for the lower frequencies. Lots of work went into this video. Thank you. I like the ending!
Man, I see you're also plagued by bots in the comments. No matter, keep it up, ppl don't understand how much time, effort and resources go into prototyping and data gathering. That 6.5 might be better tuned higher, as you stated. Another thing that you might consider is getting a mic & REW to do FR sweeps (opens a whole new Pandora's Box of troubles and adjustments) but will visualize your proto box response to modeled FR response. I've an 8" Hertz sub which is waiting for its panels to do exactly what you did. Box is 1.130 ft3 @ 33Hz to 0.5 ft3 @ 60Hz = -3dB @ 30Hz and -3dB @ 90Hz. Everything above 32-33Hz to about 80Hz is above 0dB response with a peak @ 50Hz +4.5dB. Driver specs are more important in those type of boxes than anything else. Cheers. P.S. Good on your lady for allowing the living room! 😆
@@BudgetBassHead I got 2 actually: an ES200.5 8" (older model, Energy Series) and a Cento S4 10" both cheap, but good budget wise and decent TS params. I'm in Europe....your CT 6.5 costs more than certain 12" models here and I will never consider anything below 8" to be viable for sub duty. Audison is the parent company of Hertz. Check them out. 🙂 You can find detailed spec sheets for both. I bought the 8" for like 60 USD and the 10" for like 100$, before the USD was over the Euro.
BudgetBassHead, if you pause this video @ 19:07, you will see 27hz= 4.8 ohms= 28 watts! This clearly indicates that your subsonic filter of your amplifier, or processor, is massively limiting your low freq. output on your 6th order! It seems perfect for your bass reflex/ported enclosure as that is tuned @ 42hz.
@@BudgetBassHead It even seems to limit power up @ 35hz. Does this amp have an adjustable subsonic potentiometer from 10hz to 50hz? And if so, have you tryed testing with it turned all the way down to 10hz?
@@BudgetBassHead I ✔️ out the audiopipe amp u have on their website, and it says bandwidth 30hz to 180hz. Subsonic off=30hz, but most amps start cutting power output around 5hz higher than their lowest subsonic setting, from my testing. Like the amp i use says subsonic 10hz to 50hz, but even @ its lowest setting=10hz, it starts reducing power @ 14, or 15hz. Im glad i seen this test of yours, cause i know alot of people that were looking @ buying the audiopipe amp u r using, but never realized it stops output around 35hz n below. Most of them play modded music like me, and want to play 15hz to 50hz! Im not trying to bash what u have, but alot of people i know that demo low freq. Modded music would be pissed, if they bought this, or any other amp that limited output @35hz, or even 30hz. Thank you for showing that in your video. Have a great day, and plz., keep making great videos!
@@BudgetBassHead I have 2 apmi2000's and I have 0 problems playing down low infact my peek is 24hz and can play to 16hz with authority so it's not the amp
@@KnowName33 There is something limiting low freq.= below 33Hz or so, in this guys system= not your system. If you see the freq. sweep test he does in this video, without changing the volume, the power should be fairly close to similar @ the same/like ohm loads per freq. Example: If 37Hz was 4.8 ohms, and 200 watts, then @ 27Hz if it was 4.8 ohms the power should be around 200 watts, unless something is limiting it? Look @ 19:01 to 19:07 into this video, something is greatly reducing power output from 37Hz to 27Hz!
🔴 Dope asf👍🏾, I wanna try my luck at building one of these enclosusers for dual 12s. I'm probably gonna screw up the math measurments but I'm still gone try❗️
5:22 this reminds me of back I n the mid to late 90s going to the Bose store and pressing the demo button and watching that plexi glass subwoofer enclosure they had and watch all the Styrofoam BBs move around while it pissed off the store employees who had to listen to that every day
Men you really need to make and test the DECWARE deathbox for 10", it looks like a very interesting project that promises to dupicate the power of the bass
okay yeah I have to do a comparison with you, Only because I do not recall ever seeing you do too much with a t-line and I have never compared a 6th order direcly agaist a t-line so it would be cool to see and know
Nice video, but u should have used 2 more bracings for the chamber und have used at least enough screws for the holes. U can see that the chuffing comes from air that slips outta the Plexitop😅.
This is a great video. Excellent demonstration, makes me wish I was smart enough to build something like this. Awesome share, I’d say the best video I’ve seen yet that shows exactly what you’re explaining. I got some brand new plexiglass still sealed in plastic, same thickness as what u have but I have several sheets of it, I have some 3/4 as well, enough to make a viewing window, but still, I can’t build anything that would work…at all. Thanks for Sharing
Now i wanna see response graph on how flat is the response. Ofc its not an efficient design but looks like small area is acting like volume of air. And i feel like the ported box is messed up too.
Dude i want these drawings so bad. I suck at figuring out all the math involved. Hook me up with some dimensions and I’ll glad pay you for them. The dual port 6th order would work perfectly for my application.
Bandpass are the best to get the most out of your subs with the minimal watts. That being said, I've had one bandpass 12 and it was great for those long notes but the quick thumping notes are lost through those tuning ports. I've always like sealed over everything.
If each end was a horn. On the long side slant everything so the last line forms a horn and on the short side start a horn shape from near to the last interior brace. You might have made the long one. bit too long no?
I'd love for you to build me a 4th order box for 2x avatar stu-1246 going on 2x AAB-4900.1D by deaf bonce !!! just a dream my guy, appreciate the work you put in stay blessed and safe 🙏 🙌🏾 💯
Great job man! I dig this channel alot. As far as copyright infringement, isn't all you have to do is give the artist credit for their music?? I don't know, but I've seen vids to where they did play radio songs and gave credits, and they didn't get taken down?? Keep up the good work, I like how you break it down.
What about a 6th order passive radiator box with different weighted passive radiators and/or different sized boxes and the real driver hidden on the inside?
That tri chamber looks slick, all your boxes look great, What tools do you use? Judging by a blade burn I seen at the end looks like you are running them with just a skill saw (Know how I know that mark! 🤣) One thing to note however is the reason you see 6th orders in spl builds is the construction and sheer size needed doesn't give you much option with the port size as well. Also can't do a 4th bandpass (obviously a 4the reflex aka ported is typically not even an option with more than 2-4 drivers ) is because you can't literally have a sealed section or you'll blow the box or more likely you'll blow your spiders and cones right out from the amount of air needing to be displaced (Hence why windshields blow 😂) great vid
I'm new to your channel, found it while surfing RUclips for low Bass box builds. I have a 10" CT Sounds Strato in a 1 cuft ported box (@35htz) and im looking to play lower bass notes without hurting my Sub. But im not sure about what kind of box im looking for and was hoping to learn something new. I listen to Rebassed music and the Sub is 37htz. I try to stay above 30htz but most of the good songs are in the 20s so i figure IF i get a different box maybe i can achieve the sweeps like you had in the first box.
I just want to know how to design this for the whole trunk of my explorer. Everything I see ,looks like bottom port dumping into top half? Videos never show a top and bottom port
1st time coming across your channel, good stuff!!! Got yourself a subscriber! I was curious, think coating the port with wood glue or something would help with air flow? And was also wondering if flaring the port throughout the box would make a difference? (Like starting at 1.5" out to 3"-4" at the end of the box)
Coating the port will yield little to no improvement of the "chuffing". The "flared" or "radiused" exit would help the most, however it isn't a sure resolve for port noise, and the length of the vent would have to be adjusted. Where the radius begins is the end of the length of the vent. The port velocity is too high and can be calculated to a minimum port area for a given port design. A port can be tuned to a given frequency at a calculated port area and length and yield a port velocity. The same frequency can be achieved from another port area and length and yield another port velocity. Either or may be equal to, less than, or greater than a determined velocity. That less than or equal to that velocity yields zero noise. Greater than....you get noise. The port velocity should be calculated and referenced against the threshold every time a vented enclosure of any kind is designed. Any size or shape vent is susceptible to noise. I wish it was as easy as rounding over sharp edge, adding 45° corner braces, a large radius flared vent , or coating the smooth MDF vent walls in wood glue, outfits even easier through a mathematical equation.
What would happen if you added two Passives into this build ? Maybe on the Top... or on both the front and rear panels ? Phillips created a unique Passive system called "Woox". It consisted of two unique passives that I believe have three expansion rings... and both passives were stacked about 1" apart from each other, mounted to a special open-air assembly... and then screwed in place to the speaker. (So, thats 4 passives total. Two per speaker) Interestingly enough... I believe these speakers ALSO had ports on the rears of them. I dont know if the ports were tuned, or just for passing excess air pressures. It would be cool if someone replicated the Woox passives, but on a much larger scale.. making a Frankenstein version of it... by gluing 3 Foam Surrounds of different diameters, into a single flat passive (x2). The phillips woox speakers that I owned, were part of a boom box, that were powered by 6.5" diameter woofers. When they rotted out, I looked into replacing them... and found out that these woofers were specially designed for longer Travel / Extension... to be able to deal with the greater bass excitement, without suffering any over-extension distortions. Also, to help excite the Woox units. If you are not sure what the woox unit looks like... google for the Images... and you will find some photos of it, pulled out of the speaker. Those little woox speakers put out more deep low end bass... than my 12" techniques 3-way house speakers. Even at maximum volume levels (where they were almost ready to blow), I couldnt get them to distort the bass. Pretty amazing design. Sadly, mine had the foam based Woox assembles.. and they eventually cracked and rotted out. They did make an all plastic version... but sadly, I never got my hands on a set with them. I had thought about trying to reproduce a plastic version... using Hot Melt plastic and a Vacuum molding device. I worked at a place that had such a unit... though, I believe a heat gun and a vacuum, can make a decent DIY home version. Simply carve out the ring shapes in wood, glue them to a thin board, and then pull the vacuum mold on it. With the 3 expansion rings instead of two... you get a lot more expansion / excursion, than a typical passive. I couldnt tell if the woox units had weights in the center of them. They were very light in mass. I should have tried putting a magnet to them.. but I never thought about it, at the time.
Man that was truly amazing, I want to build my box exactly like yours I have a 6 inch dual voice coil Bose Rich bass sub. Is there anyway that you can send me the exact measurements of that box I would truly appreciate it. I'm building my box out of 1 inch plexiglass. I will post it on RUclips and I will give you a shout out for being the main designer
Let's do a controlled test for real this time. Put the meter in the same kick. And let's put 800 watts to the 6th order box instead of 400 . Like the 800 watts that was put to the reflex box .
@@nl25c That guy is a character all right. I stopped listening to him a long time ago due to all his negativity. I view car audio as fun and interesting and don't want to hear a bunch of complaining over nothing. I really don't know what he would even be complaining about with this science experiment. Seeing how it works is really great.
Man when I saw how the tuning affected the way the paper was moving from side to side kind of blew my mind. I mean I know how it works but just being able to physically see it was so satisfying. I love it man. Keep up the great work and content. Thanks for sharing.
True. But when it got lower the plexiglass was flexing a lot. It was nice to see it in action though, but I’m glad he made a solid top. This is a nice box, awesome for a 6.5 single sub. I’d love to have that bandwidth
Right. The paper on the left side didnt start moving until it started into the lower frequency.
I absolutely love 6th orders, as you can see from my profile pic I have 8 12's in a series 6th order wall.
I have my small chamber (rear) tuned to 24hz and my large (front) chamber tuned to 48hz.
I do a 160db@23hz and a 162.3db@36hz.
From 20hz-70hz I never drop below 158db. It has crazy bandwidth, sure I could build a flat wall and be louder but I like to demo and having that kind of bandwidth is amazing.
I can play down to 17hz also and still be at a 154db.
I would love to see that build!
I'd love to see it too. 6th order has been on my mind lately for my daily driver, hate to go thru the trouble of buying mdf, building the box and having it not meet my expectations how well does it compare to a sealed enclosure?
Nice I had a huge 6th order and 1 under powered xmaxxx monster 15 and I loved it my peek was 24hz lol I did 148db at 24hz sealed at the headrest and 142db at 19hz sealed at the headrest and my meeter won't read below 19hz so idk what it did but I could play down to 16hz before losing compression
Awesome!!!!!
Im still pretty blown away by how capable these little drivers are.
They really are amazing I had 4 in a very low tuned enclosure on a strapped pair of ct2000.1ds and nobody believed I was only running 6.5s
@@nikgosser3035yeah these little 6.5 subs nowadays hit low in the right box with the right amount of subs.
That tuning visualization was awesome!!
Never thought about how the enclosure could be dual purpose. One port for video FX and one port for music
Great concept and a very informative demonstration to watch. Regardless if it's parallel or not it's still a sixth order bandpass with efficiency gains across the board. Thank you for all the time and effort to give us bass heads what we crave.👍👊🙏
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the support!
Oh I’m glad you topped it off, that plexiglass was flexing
When I was in college in the 90's my uncle gave me a box he pulled from a trade in car at his dealership. It was small carpeted box sealed on all sides but had a 4" PVC port sticking out of a small box about 4 inches long. It played louder and lower than anything I had heard at the time and was a single Orion Cobalt sub inside that box. Love 6th Orders, deep and clean.
This is nothing new but well demonstrated. Bose Acoustimass AM5 bass module is built in this parallel 6th order. 30 years old AM5 and it is still working in my computer room attached to my PC amp. Off course Bose AM5 bass module is tuned much higher (40-120 Hz) and the roll of on 40 is very steep but the principle is the same. They managed to make a very small box with 2 X 5-1/2" drivers and they put the driver's panel on the angle so they can make the box even smaller. Very smart. On the angle the driver panel can get the bigger diameter drivers keeping the top and bottom of the box the same distance. Very primitive with only 2 port tubes but it works. Now after I saw this video I am thinking of building the replacement bass box for my AM5 with lower tuning frequency. Building the box will not be a problem but finding the right drivers for it, that is another story.
Looking at your presentation I can see the huge Xmax on your CT driver and while it is OK for a higher frequencies (40 and over) I dont like when the driver is moving so much at the lower frequencies. Something is not right in calculation for the under 30Hz in box design as it seems to me the driver is close to the Fs in that range. I know CT can handle it because of its huge Xmax capabilities, but it shouldn't on lower frequencies... Only my opinion, I may be wrong. Either way thanks for this presentation it made mi think about it now.
This reminds me of a 1990’s 6th order bandbass unit B-8 or B-10 by a company called Collins Sun Electronics or Collins USA. I had the B-8 and that had a port on one side and a smaller port on the other and it 8” sub would take and sound REALLY AMAZING with a Punch 200 bridged to 900w RMS. Nonody would believe me when I tole them it was 1 -8” speaker 🔊. Their enclosures were black laminate with Fleckstone “granite speckled end caps. Some even came self amplified. They had tubes and cubes but the rectangular B-8 & B-10 were my favorite with almost ZERO distortion. Simply amazing and ai love this channel because this man builds things that I haven’t seen in a LONG TIME like the one with the “Infinite Baffle” aka Free Air 18’s so awesome! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
That was a really ammazing way to show what really happens in the enclosure!!!...I now understand so much more by just watching the airflow with the tuning device in frame, at the same time with an easy clear explanation of what is happening, the why, the how, the when, even the if!!..lol !!..Great job!!!..👍.
Just a tip, when a sun starts smelling, turn ur volume down and play a low frequency just to get air moving. Helps cool everything off.
Thanks for the tip
Man absolutely loved this video. Thank you for going through the trouble and work. I tune all my ported enclosures to 25Hz or if it’s only a 10” I may go to 29Hz. I listen to the low stuff. I have 2 trucks with blow throughs. You have motivated me to try a 6th in my daily. Currently enjoying my 2nd year with a 4th type and ready for something new.
So I new the concept of how it works but to see it in action working the way it should was pretty awsome!! Nice job and thanks for taking the time to show us viewers. Def appreciated!
The long port is the result of a small airspace. As the chamber gets smaller the port has to get longer to maintain a given tuning frequency.
Y’all should collab! Maybe have Budget on as a guest speaker in your podcast! 🔥🙏
@@It-b-Blair😬 DIY's hands would over shadow and eventually take over the "collab" leaving Budget hand and foot less.
Thank you! Best visual of the 6th order
Glad you liked it!
This is the first I fully understand how the port tuning works. I knew how to make it work, but didn’t know what was happening. The confetti was a great idea to show how the frequency moves through.
one of the best car audio channels. thanks
4:10 - visualizing that with the confetti is such a simple and effective way to demonstrate! Awesome video
Glad you liked it!
Awesome vid! Visual affect of “confetti test” brought simplicity to what is sometimes difficult for people to visualize! Great real world tests, parameters, and applications!
Wow! You had me at 6th Order! Yeah, I would've tuned at 30 and 60.
I wanted to, but the program showed a better curve with this tuning.
Looking out, you should get one of them IM-SG tools for figuring out your enclosure tuning and see how far off your enclosure building program is from real world test. If you went with a higher tuning, your 6th Order for sure would have outperformed the bass reflex enclosure. HexiBase has a good breakdown of the 6th order operation of both parallel and series. The point of the 6th order is to give 2 tuning peaks, in which you can EQ your peaks to flatten a response across a wider table than a traditional 4th order bandpass (ratio defendant as well 1:1 2:1 3:1 and so on) efficiently. Which is where the 6th order bandpass order came from. Porting the sealed chamber in the 4th order.
@@mikehonda7934 The IM-SG+ is a $450 device and he already has the tools that can duplicate its function. So not a good investment. I'd suggest a DATS that will plot the impedance curve on a graph. They are only $130.
@@JasonWW2000 it is a good investment if you are into what Budget does. Yes the DATS does the same, but on the fly, the DATS is useless and you’ll be guessing. Do some research on the unit I mentioned, and you’ll understand it does more than what the DATS does. D’Amore Engineering has a few segments it’s design and features. Put together all of what you say he has, since you know him apparently, and get a tally up and tell me how much it comes up too. Minus the computer you need to use the DATS.
Genius with the confetti, really helps to understand it.
Prime example man love it with a solid top id love to have that behind my sectional
Wow, it sounds way better with the mdf on there. I can't believe how much air is still moving down at 19 hz. That is like a windy, hair trick box
I've been wanting to do a build exactly like this for a daily for a long time awesome to seen it in action
You have a tolerant wife my man, God bless you both. Love your videos.
Great job and effort and putting the work in! You do alot of testing that I have always wanted to do using a very scientific method. Kuddos to you sir.
This channel is super underrated
Bro..i truly 3njoy your videos,also im sure glad there is someone smart enough to dumb it down for those of us trying to figure it out!
And it looks like the acrylic top is flexing like a lot too
For visuals only
The tissue effect was an excellent visual!
your awesome. i loved your video. im so inspired
Great build! Thanks for showing us what it can do! And for your wife letting you! 🤣👍
Now I have a better understanding on how them boxes work
Them octaves... They get us all man.😂
I think I've only seen a tri-chamber box once at a car audio show. Looks pretty cool! Killin it man👌
finally, an enclosure befitting the 6.5 Meso....😁
That plexi flex is throwing of your results a LOT.
Wow, what a cool demonstration! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! Cheers!
This man is a true bass head!
It's not that surprising that you smell the woofer using the reflex box. You really need an infrasonic filter to keep it from unloading below the tuning frequency. Win isd also has an excursion chart that shows when the woofer will bottom out (if you input the xmax) of course your first box is tuned so low you'll never have a problem. Great video!
When it unloads the coil leaves the gap and it heats it up so the further the coil is away from the magnet the hotter the coil is gonna get so if you keep the subwoofer within the tuning frequency of the box it keeps the coil centered within the gap and it keeps it cooler and it also increases bl.
Just leaving Houston on my way back to San Antonio in Texas we like it low and slow
Here to learn and support… who wouldn’t want to see their sun tho
I know a guy who turns his subs differently. He had two 15s and he has one box at 25 and one 35. He’s the only person I’ve see do it. I’m sure others have.
I don’t don’t understand how firing them at the trunk makes it louder, yet people say trunk wall is better than that. But I know facing forward isn’t as good. So idk how sealing it off facing the cab makes it better.
LOVE your content. Best Car Audio on RUclips.
Excellent visual representation!!
How low can you go. Pretty impressive for a small driver. This would work amazingly well with a bigger driver or 2 drivers side by side to create the width for the lower frequencies. Lots of work went into this video. Thank you. I like the ending!
Awesome job man. That just made things click for my mind.
This look like it had multiple peaks. You can see peaks at 25hz - 28hz - 32hz - and 35hz as far as the TP 🧻 test looked.
Man, I see you're also plagued by bots in the comments. No matter, keep it up, ppl don't understand how much time, effort and resources go into prototyping and data gathering. That 6.5 might be better tuned higher, as you stated. Another thing that you might consider is getting a mic & REW to do FR sweeps (opens a whole new Pandora's Box of troubles and adjustments) but will visualize your proto box response to modeled FR response. I've an 8" Hertz sub which is waiting for its panels to do exactly what you did. Box is 1.130 ft3 @ 33Hz to 0.5 ft3 @ 60Hz = -3dB @ 30Hz and -3dB @ 90Hz. Everything above 32-33Hz to about 80Hz is above 0dB response with a peak @ 50Hz +4.5dB. Driver specs are more important in those type of boxes than anything else. Cheers.
P.S. Good on your lady for allowing the living room! 😆
Thanks for the support. I've been curious about those Hertz subs for a while now.
@@BudgetBassHead I got 2 actually: an ES200.5 8" (older model, Energy Series) and a Cento S4 10" both cheap, but good budget wise and decent TS params. I'm in Europe....your CT 6.5 costs more than certain 12" models here and I will never consider anything below 8" to be viable for sub duty. Audison is the parent company of Hertz. Check them out. 🙂
You can find detailed spec sheets for both. I bought the 8" for like 60 USD and the 10" for like 100$, before the USD was over the Euro.
BudgetBassHead, if you pause this video @ 19:07, you will see 27hz= 4.8 ohms= 28 watts! This clearly indicates that your subsonic filter of your amplifier, or processor, is massively limiting your low freq. output on your 6th order! It seems perfect for your bass reflex/ported enclosure as that is tuned @ 42hz.
Yes the amp I'm using rolls of at 30Hz. I'm getting rid of it though. Thanks.
@@BudgetBassHead It even seems to limit power up @ 35hz. Does this amp have an adjustable subsonic potentiometer from 10hz to 50hz? And if so, have you tryed testing with it turned all the way down to 10hz?
@@BudgetBassHead I ✔️ out the audiopipe amp u have on their website, and it says bandwidth 30hz to 180hz. Subsonic off=30hz, but most amps start cutting power output around 5hz higher than their lowest subsonic setting, from my testing. Like the amp i use says subsonic 10hz to 50hz, but even @ its lowest setting=10hz, it starts reducing power @ 14, or 15hz. Im glad i seen this test of yours, cause i know alot of people that were looking @ buying the audiopipe amp u r using, but never realized it stops output around 35hz n below. Most of them play modded music like me, and want to play 15hz to 50hz! Im not trying to bash what u have, but alot of people i know that demo low freq. Modded music would be pissed, if they bought this, or any other amp that limited output @35hz, or even 30hz. Thank you for showing that in your video. Have a great day, and plz., keep making great videos!
@@BudgetBassHead I have 2 apmi2000's and I have 0 problems playing down low infact my peek is 24hz and can play to 16hz with authority so it's not the amp
@@KnowName33 There is something limiting low freq.= below 33Hz or so, in this guys system= not your system. If you see the freq. sweep test he does in this video, without changing the volume, the power should be fairly close to similar @ the same/like ohm loads per freq. Example: If 37Hz was 4.8 ohms, and 200 watts, then @ 27Hz if it was 4.8 ohms the power should be around 200 watts, unless something is limiting it? Look @ 19:01 to 19:07 into this video, something is greatly reducing power output from 37Hz to 27Hz!
This channel is very informative. Great stuff
🔴 Dope asf👍🏾, I wanna try my luck at building one of these enclosusers for dual 12s. I'm probably gonna screw up the math measurments but I'm still gone try❗️
Go for it that's what it's all about
Hi, are plans available ?@@BudgetBassHead
That was actually really cool!
That’s an awesome idea
That's pretty cool man.
5:22 this reminds me of back I n the mid to late 90s going to the Bose store and pressing the demo button and watching that plexi glass subwoofer enclosure they had and watch all the Styrofoam BBs move around while it pissed off the store employees who had to listen to that every day
Men you really need to make and test the DECWARE deathbox for 10", it looks like a very interesting project that promises to dupicate the power of the bass
okay yeah I have to do a comparison with you, Only because I do not recall ever seeing you do too much with a t-line and I have never compared a 6th order direcly agaist a t-line so it would be cool to see and know
pretty cool demo mate. Cheers!
Nice video, but u should have used 2 more bracings for the chamber und have used at least enough screws for the holes. U can see that the chuffing comes from air that slips outta the Plexitop😅.
It sounds louder at 46hz and 7 ohms. That must be the cabin rise at the position of the camera mic or the mic low roll off.
Sounds great. Is there supposed to be a link to a plans/build video
This is a great video. Excellent demonstration, makes me wish I was smart enough to build something like this. Awesome share, I’d say the best video I’ve seen yet that shows exactly what you’re explaining. I got some brand new plexiglass still sealed in plastic, same thickness as what u have but I have several sheets of it, I have some 3/4 as well, enough to make a viewing window, but still, I can’t build anything that would work…at all. Thanks for Sharing
Bless your wife Sir . Cherish her 🤘🏽
Now i wanna see response graph on how flat is the response. Ofc its not an efficient design but looks like small area is acting like volume of air. And i feel like the ported box is messed up too.
Dude i want these drawings so bad. I suck at figuring out all the math involved. Hook me up with some dimensions and I’ll glad pay you for them. The dual port 6th order would work perfectly for my application.
Bandpass are the best to get the most out of your subs with the minimal watts. That being said, I've had one bandpass 12 and it was great for those long notes but the quick thumping notes are lost through those tuning ports. I've always like sealed over everything.
That was cool.i like your content.thank you sir
Yea!!!
Great video and great knowledge! Thank you keep it up !
The program I use for 6th's my back chamber is small with high side port and front chamber is bigger with lower tuned port I get higher dB's.
Thanks for the tip
Nicely done bro
Very well said my man. I agree with you.
If each end was a horn. On the long side slant everything so the last line forms a horn and on the short side start a horn shape from near to the last interior brace. You might have made the long one. bit too long no?
Awesome way to show transition from 40 to 20htz
What sub you running in it and would it play louder with 2 subs or can that work
I'd love for you to build me a 4th order box for 2x avatar stu-1246 going on 2x AAB-4900.1D by deaf bonce !!! just a dream my guy, appreciate the work you put in stay blessed and safe 🙏 🙌🏾 💯
Great job man! I dig this channel alot. As far as copyright infringement, isn't all you have to do is give the artist credit for their music?? I don't know, but I've seen vids to where they did play radio songs and gave credits, and they didn't get taken down?? Keep up the good work, I like how you break it down.
Very nice looks like it likes 26 hrz
What about a 6th order passive radiator box with different weighted passive radiators and/or different sized boxes and the real driver hidden on the inside?
FOR MY OPINIÓN THE SOUND IS GOING BETTER IS YOU PUT A FILTER IN THE LAST LINE ON THE 2 SIDE OF BYPASS
Great channel, keep the content coming!
Thanks, will do!
Another great video👍 what frequency generator app do you use? Can you maybe show the app icon before you open it next time. Thanks!
Theres tons of them on the app store. They all work pretty much the same
I'll make sure to mention it in the next vid
Watching your stuff lately and this morning I woke up with a wild idea
*6th order isobaric with passive radiators*
What do you think? 🤪🤷♂️😸
That tri chamber looks slick, all your boxes look great, What tools do you use? Judging by a blade burn I seen at the end looks like you are running them with just a skill saw (Know how I know that mark! 🤣) One thing to note however is the reason you see 6th orders in spl builds is the construction and sheer size needed doesn't give you much option with the port size as well. Also can't do a 4th bandpass (obviously a 4the reflex aka ported is typically not even an option with more than 2-4 drivers ) is because you can't literally have a sealed section or you'll blow the box or more likely you'll blow your spiders and cones right out from the amount of air needing to be displaced (Hence why windshields blow 😂) great vid
I'm new to your channel, found it while surfing RUclips for low Bass box builds. I have a 10" CT Sounds Strato in a 1 cuft ported box (@35htz) and im looking to play lower bass notes without hurting my Sub. But im not sure about what kind of box im looking for and was hoping to learn something new. I listen to Rebassed music and the Sub is 37htz. I try to stay above 30htz but most of the good songs are in the 20s so i figure IF i get a different box maybe i can achieve the sweeps like you had in the first box.
I would love to see this same enclosure and test done with cotton balls.
Супер.так наглядно👍.вы очень классные видео делаете для любителей сабвуферостроения.
I just want to know how to design this for the whole trunk of my explorer. Everything I see ,looks like bottom port dumping into top half? Videos never show a top and bottom port
1st time coming across your channel, good stuff!!! Got yourself a subscriber! I was curious, think coating the port with wood glue or something would help with air flow? And was also wondering if flaring the port throughout the box would make a difference? (Like starting at 1.5" out to 3"-4" at the end of the box)
Coating the port will yield little to no improvement of the "chuffing". The "flared" or "radiused" exit would help the most, however it isn't a sure resolve for port noise, and the length of the vent would have to be adjusted. Where the radius begins is the end of the length of the vent. The port velocity is too high and can be calculated to a minimum port area for a given port design.
A port can be tuned to a given frequency at a calculated port area and length and yield a port velocity. The same frequency can be achieved from another port area and length and yield another port velocity. Either or may be equal to, less than, or greater than a determined velocity. That less than or equal to that velocity yields zero noise. Greater than....you get noise.
The port velocity should be calculated and referenced against the threshold every time a vented enclosure of any kind is designed. Any size or shape vent is susceptible to noise. I wish it was as easy as rounding over sharp edge, adding 45° corner braces, a large radius flared vent , or coating the smooth MDF vent walls in wood glue, outfits even easier through a mathematical equation.
What would happen if you added two Passives into this build ? Maybe on the Top... or on both the front and rear panels ? Phillips created a unique Passive system called "Woox". It consisted of two unique passives that I believe have three expansion rings... and both passives were stacked about 1" apart from each other, mounted to a special open-air assembly... and then screwed in place to the speaker. (So, thats 4 passives total. Two per speaker) Interestingly enough... I believe these speakers ALSO had ports on the rears of them. I dont know if the ports were tuned, or just for passing excess air pressures.
It would be cool if someone replicated the Woox passives, but on a much larger scale.. making a Frankenstein version of it... by gluing 3 Foam Surrounds of different diameters, into a single flat passive (x2). The phillips woox speakers that I owned, were part of a boom box, that were powered by 6.5" diameter woofers. When they rotted out, I looked into replacing them... and found out that these woofers were specially designed for longer Travel / Extension... to be able to deal with the greater bass excitement, without suffering any over-extension distortions. Also, to help excite the Woox units.
If you are not sure what the woox unit looks like... google for the Images... and you will find some photos of it, pulled out of the speaker.
Those little woox speakers put out more deep low end bass... than my 12" techniques 3-way house speakers. Even at maximum volume levels (where they were almost ready to blow), I couldnt get them to distort the bass. Pretty amazing design.
Sadly, mine had the foam based Woox assembles.. and they eventually cracked and rotted out. They did make an all plastic version... but sadly, I never got my hands on a set with them.
I had thought about trying to reproduce a plastic version... using Hot Melt plastic and a Vacuum molding device. I worked at a place that had such a unit... though, I believe a heat gun and a vacuum, can make a decent DIY home version. Simply carve out the ring shapes in wood, glue them to a thin board, and then pull the vacuum mold on it.
With the 3 expansion rings instead of two... you get a lot more expansion / excursion, than a typical passive.
I couldnt tell if the woox units had weights in the center of them. They were very light in mass. I should have tried putting a magnet to them.. but I never thought about it, at the time.
Man that was truly amazing, I want to build my box exactly like yours I have a 6 inch dual voice coil Bose Rich bass sub. Is there anyway that you can send me the exact measurements of that box I would truly appreciate it. I'm building my box out of 1 inch plexiglass. I will post it on RUclips and I will give you a shout out for being the main designer
Can you make one using aeroports? With the one side tuned a little higher.
What if you put a passive radiator behind the sub 🤔
Love your vids. Cool stuff i always wondered about. :)
More videos are always amazing thank you. What if you did a passive radiator on a fourth order bandpass
Let's do a controlled test for real this time. Put the meter in the same kick. And let's put 800 watts to the 6th order box instead of 400 . Like the 800 watts that was put to the reflex box .
your making good content, the hate is real
What hate? I don't see any.
@@JasonWW2000 robotunderground was talking shit on his channel about this build
@@nl25c That guy is a character all right. I stopped listening to him a long time ago due to all his negativity. I view car audio as fun and interesting and don't want to hear a bunch of complaining over nothing. I really don't know what he would even be complaining about with this science experiment. Seeing how it works is really great.
@@JasonWW2000 yeah at first I thought it was cool building subs but there is a lot of negativity
Excellent 👍 all the way around