liked the wet sanding. always been a bit scared of wet sanding but much faster. can you show some more scratch removal with wet sanding on the van. would you only use wet sanding for scratches ie hole van improvement.
I can completely understand the apprehension, it seems like you'd be removing loads of clear doesn't it? It isn't actually, not with the very light pressure you apply here. 3000p wet and dry is super fine, you'd have be going crazy to get through the clear using that by hand. I've got plenty more scratches to take out so I can do another video of taking them out and I'll do it in real time so you can see the speed I move, and I'll describe the process and tools more as well. In the mean time, Brian from Apex Detailing has this video which is great in terms of content, just a bit janky for production quality. ruclips.net/video/5IoleIVdi4g/видео.html
You mentioned the green pads. Thise are actually my favorite cutting pad, which surprising because it's labeled as a light cut / heavy polish. I like that it contours to the slight curves and harsh angles some panels have while still removing defects. If that's not working as fast as I'd like, I move to a fiber cutting pad like the Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber or LC Purple Foamed Wool.
I've got a lot of love for that Hex Green pad, it's so versatile and it seems to work really well across a wide variety of paint finishes too. Generally I don't like many chemical guys products, but their pads are generally really good. The white one is great too!
@@SuperchargedLlama - I feel the same about Chemical Guys. Buff and Shine is the manufacturer, so I just bought a case each of the 5" green, blue, and red. Going forward I may have them make me pads based on my designs, and sell them online. I already have a seller account with them so I can sell, but funds are tight for a stock up. It will happen though. I'd like to be able to get those foams in 1", and 3" sizes too.
Absolutely - thanks for watching btw. With regards to speed setting, definitely speed 4 on the DAS6 Pro here, it stalls out quite easily so you need the speed up. In terms of pressure, just enough to keep it in contact with the panel really, nothing too strong as the pad will stall out again. If it was horizontal I'd be saying "just the weight of your hand". On vertical panels that doesn't quite correlate, but I hope that makes sensse?
@@SuperchargedLlama cool thanks. Guess your paint on that van isnt that hard right?Not like a BMW or Merc? (unless it is a merc lol ) I find 3-4 on my Bigfoot to be enough.. has good grunt and using Koch Chemie compounds and Rupes pads i can get the results i want on most paint.
@@stevef2114 yeah it's vauxhall paint so it's soft! But on a Transporter for example, I'd use Rupes Yellow Wool and Zvizzer medium on a Forced Rotation DA.
@@stevef2114 you can see how good even the yellow foam on a Forced Rotation is in this one (on BMW paint) ruclips.net/video/62L-wl5E4EI/видео.htmlsi=HIXTYB0pk4JSoS6e
Thanks my man. Glad you enjoyed it! It's been pointed out that I needed to prime the wool pad better to get more out of it, I'll shoot another video doing this and see if that impacts it.
@@SuperchargedLlama - Nah, that's a myth. If you're using quality liquids, it will spread our and self prime as you're doing your set of passes. Also from MI!
@@danlc95 I find the longer fibre yellow wool pads from Rupes definitely prime in the fly (even though they say to prime them), with the shorter nap on these I've found that it works best to prime them first, but following the Rupes approach (couple of dots, spread around with the claw and then on the panel for 20 secs at speed 2), reload and you're away.
@@SuperchargedLlama - Those blue pads were a really rough ride, like the Lake Country Purple Thin Foamed Wool pads. I had only tried the Rupes Blue Coarse Wool pads with the DA Coarse compound, and while it cut and finished great, the rough ride and the dust were not my favorite experience. I do plan on trying them with the usual 3D liquids I like. I often forget that their liquids have a lot more lubrication than most polishes on the market. This is probably another reason I got away from priming. I do prime when using the Meguiar's D300 on their microfiber pads. Actually I use that system as they intended. I was successful with those Rupes Blue Wool when starting with 8 drops of polish. This mitigated the rough ride, but not the sling and dust, although it was much less than the way they advise.
Absolutely. I do now, I've got a Sealy paint inspection lamp and a scangrip head torch which do the job perfectly - but this video was a couple of years ago now and I wasn't as good at making them back then.
Wow, like everyone else, I'm super impressed with the wet sanding results...just looks like a slightly larger electric toothbrush 😂 I shan't worry if I get scratches like that- I know who to call! Great job mate 👍
I just rewatched it to make sure I was right before answering - I was blending it in and making sure the finish was more even/graduated. If I'd left the 2500 just on it's own before polishing it out you'd have potentially seen the "tracks" where I'd sanded as they'd be far clearer. Much the same as with a smart repair paint job, you blend in gradually so that there's not a hard/noticeable edge....the crease might have meant it played nicely, but it may not have - it would likely have been far more obvious on dark paint.
Sorry for the late question to the party. I don’t suppose you have a link to the wet sanding pad “Puck” do you buddy. Thank you for the great vids as always. 😊
Thank you darling. I've found not many people have them in stock now as they've been superceded by something that's not quite as good, however, polished bliss seems to have them! www.polishedbliss.co.uk/products/auto-finesse-handi-puck
Wet sanding and polishing will always be superior from a cutting and polishing stand point. Problems occur depending on how thin the top layer is/ how old it is/ how tough it is to cut. Best thing is to just test out pads and go softest in reason to the hardest cut because I bet you took off a lot more than you might have needed on that wet sand.
@@SuperchargedLlama ultimately love the stuff though. Just saw your video and you show people something daunting so even though I critique, I think you are doing great stuff.
@@FinanceMan Thank you for adding that, it's really helpful to know what you did and didn't like. I think next time I wet sand something I will get the PTG out to show much clear has been removed during the process vs a cutting and refining.
@@SuperchargedLlama you will get the viewers, like an awful lot of people I started watching detailing vids through covid boredom so learnt loads through Brit uploaders, but also like most back to work, time is limited so don’t watch nearly as much as I used to but always enjoy your stuff. Keep ploughing on
Thank you. I've definitely gotten better at making videos since I did this one, I wonder if I should come back and do it again but with the improved skills I've got now.
@@SuperchargedLlamaWe all improve with in time, would nice seeing your improved skills I know you have come a long way, will be nice seeing newer products to test as well to many new products flooding the market
![Should You Use Wool, Microfiber, or Foam? - Pros and Cons of Each - [RUPES Replies Episode 006]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HgBTPAY9AiE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking forward to the next instalment on the new van .
liked the wet sanding. always been a bit scared of wet sanding but much faster. can you show some more scratch removal with wet sanding on the van. would you only use wet sanding for scratches ie hole van improvement.
I can completely understand the apprehension, it seems like you'd be removing loads of clear doesn't it? It isn't actually, not with the very light pressure you apply here. 3000p wet and dry is super fine, you'd have be going crazy to get through the clear using that by hand. I've got plenty more scratches to take out so I can do another video of taking them out and I'll do it in real time so you can see the speed I move, and I'll describe the process and tools more as well.
In the mean time, Brian from Apex Detailing has this video which is great in terms of content, just a bit janky for production quality. ruclips.net/video/5IoleIVdi4g/видео.html
I think that this is a really good video. Not seen many scratch removal comparison vids before. Great upload. Thanks 👍
You mentioned the green pads. Thise are actually my favorite cutting pad, which surprising because it's labeled as a light cut / heavy polish.
I like that it contours to the slight curves and harsh angles some panels have while still removing defects.
If that's not working as fast as I'd like, I move to a fiber cutting pad like the Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber or LC Purple Foamed Wool.
I've got a lot of love for that Hex Green pad, it's so versatile and it seems to work really well across a wide variety of paint finishes too.
Generally I don't like many chemical guys products, but their pads are generally really good. The white one is great too!
@@SuperchargedLlama - I feel the same about Chemical Guys.
Buff and Shine is the manufacturer, so I just bought a case each of the 5" green, blue, and red.
Going forward I may have them make me pads based on my designs, and sell them online. I already have a seller account with them so I can sell, but funds are tight for a stock up. It will happen though.
I'd like to be able to get those foams in 1", and 3" sizes too.
@@danlc95 yeah that's something I didn't know, but it's a really useful but if insight, thanks for sharing that.
good job... be nice to share how much pressure you applied on your DA, and speed set on your machine.. thanks
Absolutely - thanks for watching btw.
With regards to speed setting, definitely speed 4 on the DAS6 Pro here, it stalls out quite easily so you need the speed up. In terms of pressure, just enough to keep it in contact with the panel really, nothing too strong as the pad will stall out again. If it was horizontal I'd be saying "just the weight of your hand". On vertical panels that doesn't quite correlate, but I hope that makes sensse?
@@SuperchargedLlama cool thanks. Guess your paint on that van isnt that hard right?Not like a BMW or Merc? (unless it is a merc lol )
I find 3-4 on my Bigfoot to be enough.. has good grunt and using Koch Chemie compounds and Rupes pads i can get the results i want on most paint.
@@stevef2114 yeah it's vauxhall paint so it's soft! But on a Transporter for example, I'd use Rupes Yellow Wool and Zvizzer medium on a Forced Rotation DA.
@@stevef2114 you can see how good even the yellow foam on a Forced Rotation is in this one (on BMW paint) ruclips.net/video/62L-wl5E4EI/видео.htmlsi=HIXTYB0pk4JSoS6e
@@SuperchargedLlama cant beat that yellow wool lol!
Great video. Cheers from Michigan USA
Thanks my man. Glad you enjoyed it! It's been pointed out that I needed to prime the wool pad better to get more out of it, I'll shoot another video doing this and see if that impacts it.
@@SuperchargedLlama - Nah, that's a myth. If you're using quality liquids, it will spread our and self prime as you're doing your set of passes.
Also from MI!
@@danlc95 I find the longer fibre yellow wool pads from Rupes definitely prime in the fly (even though they say to prime them), with the shorter nap on these I've found that it works best to prime them first, but following the Rupes approach (couple of dots, spread around with the claw and then on the panel for 20 secs at speed 2), reload and you're away.
@@SuperchargedLlama - Those blue pads were a really rough ride, like the Lake Country Purple Thin Foamed Wool pads.
I had only tried the Rupes Blue Coarse Wool pads with the DA Coarse compound, and while it cut and finished great, the rough ride and the dust were not my favorite experience.
I do plan on trying them with the usual 3D liquids I like. I often forget that their liquids have a lot more lubrication than most polishes on the market. This is probably another reason I got away from priming.
I do prime when using the Meguiar's D300 on their microfiber pads. Actually I use that system as they intended.
I was successful with those Rupes Blue Wool when starting with 8 drops of polish. This mitigated the rough ride, but not the sling and dust, although it was much less than the way they advise.
Just an FYI, you should use a very bright torch that will help show you when recording to show scratches and marks.
Absolutely. I do now, I've got a Sealy paint inspection lamp and a scangrip head torch which do the job perfectly - but this video was a couple of years ago now and I wasn't as good at making them back then.
Wow, like everyone else, I'm super impressed with the wet sanding results...just looks like a slightly larger electric toothbrush 😂
I shan't worry if I get scratches like that- I know who to call!
Great job mate 👍
This would definitely get your teeth whiter 😅
I see you sanded above the panel crease when 3000 wet sanding but not 2500. Was that to take care of other scratches that didn't need 2500?
I just rewatched it to make sure I was right before answering - I was blending it in and making sure the finish was more even/graduated. If I'd left the 2500 just on it's own before polishing it out you'd have potentially seen the "tracks" where I'd sanded as they'd be far clearer. Much the same as with a smart repair paint job, you blend in gradually so that there's not a hard/noticeable edge....the crease might have meant it played nicely, but it may not have - it would likely have been far more obvious on dark paint.
Sorry for the late question to the party. I don’t suppose you have a link to the wet sanding pad “Puck” do you buddy. Thank you for the great vids as always. 😊
Thank you darling. I've found not many people have them in stock now as they've been superceded by something that's not quite as good, however, polished bliss seems to have them! www.polishedbliss.co.uk/products/auto-finesse-handi-puck
@@SuperchargedLlama cheers ma dear. You’re a star. Thank you dude.
Wet sanding and polishing will always be superior from a cutting and polishing stand point. Problems occur depending on how thin the top layer is/ how old it is/ how tough it is to cut. Best thing is to just test out pads and go softest in reason to the hardest cut because I bet you took off a lot more than you might have needed on that wet sand.
Taking some PTG readings would have been a good addition to the video, I hadn't thought of that at the time.
@@SuperchargedLlama ultimately love the stuff though. Just saw your video and you show people something daunting so even though I critique, I think you are doing great stuff.
@@FinanceMan Thank you for adding that, it's really helpful to know what you did and didn't like. I think next time I wet sand something I will get the PTG out to show much clear has been removed during the process vs a cutting and refining.
Enjoy your vids. Learnt loads
That's fantastic to hear, thank you very much for letting me know, it's comments like these that give me real motivation to make them.
@@SuperchargedLlama you will get the viewers, like an awful lot of people I started watching detailing vids through covid boredom so learnt loads through Brit uploaders, but also like most back to work, time is limited so don’t watch nearly as much as I used to but always enjoy your stuff. Keep ploughing on
@@trevdavis9234 I can relate to that! I'll keep on trying to make stuff that you enjoy watching 👍
This is super difficult to see the results, but its a awesome demostration though good work
Thank you. I've definitely gotten better at making videos since I did this one, I wonder if I should come back and do it again but with the improved skills I've got now.
@@SuperchargedLlamaWe all improve with in time, would nice seeing your improved skills I know you have come a long way, will be nice seeing newer products to test as well to many new products flooding the market
Woohoo I'm never first watching a vid
And now you're first getting a reply too. Have we peaked too early on Friday?
@@SuperchargedLlama quite possibly, great vid mate, certainly shows how wet sanding can really make a difference of course using caution
@@PJJ80 really appreciate the kind words. I was surprised at just how effective the wet sanding was given how easy it was.