Nicely done John,I must admit I was not to familiar with all the couplings and my wagons and coaches would separate as they would be going around and im sure that it was because of the different couplings,but I didnt know that here is so many out there. Thanks for sharing mate.
For your annoying coupler holding socket on rolling stock you can do a mod. Simply measure it to the NEM type socket for height and centring, then cut away the old one from the wagon etc. Then file away any access material or add a shim of plastic card and glue it into position. Keeping an eye on your measurements for fitting the NEM socket before hand. Add a lick of black paint to cover any plastic card or where and metal has been filed away and the job is done. Also note the D etc coupling with the spring for the hook, some times can fall out and get lost (especially in N gauge). So I glue on a slip of paper on top and paint it black. Though before I do I add a small droplet of oil to keep it lubricated for operational purpose's. Then again give it a lick of black paint or use a black permanent marker to shade the paper black so it isn't noticeable. I hope this help John and any viewers watching.
Great video John. Another channel also said ‘make sure you polish the D coupling frame nice and smooth’. The reason being that when negotiating any curves the coupling will slide without snagging
G'day John, Very good 101 on couplings. Just a few small inputs. The Hornby Dublo coupling was patented by the Pritchard Co, Peco. in their early years. It was licensed out to Meccano and made Peco a lot of money. The 3 couplings that you call Kadee are in fact a Kadee #5, Kadee Whisker & the third one is a Bachmann US Ezymate coupling. These are Plastic and I find they can very easily break their shaft. Where Kadee seem to be a lot stronger even their plastic shaft models. While I am at it I think you made a Remagnetizer. I have been using a Hornby one for some 40 years and I think you can improve your model and make it easier to use by fixing one of you poles and tilting the unit so that the other pole slide up and down as this will do away with both poles having to be adjust and free up one hand. I hope I am not to forward in suggesting this. Graeme Hearn Yerong Creek, NSW. Australia
Great video. Before I ripped down my last layout and built my very smooth new layout, couplings drove me crazy. When rakes came down my declines, they would just uncouple. I finally started using the Electrotren style and my troubles reduced but did not go away because I had exchanged random uncoupling for derailments. Since I built my new layout I am not having trouble with any style coupling because I went to great pains making the track smooth. Thanks for the video, loved it. Rob
Great video John! Its usually bad news to mix the hornby d coupling and the mainline d coupling on a train can often lead to derailments. IMO the golden rule has to be try and make your consists have the same type of coupling throughout, not always possible but gnerally speaking you can steer clear of trouble that way.
Had 00's when a kid, I'm now 63 and just starting to collect bits to make up a set for my 3, 4 and 5yo grandkids to enjoy when they visit (and me :P) I had no idea about the Triang/Hornby 'D' couplings which is what I have and Yes some are different.. Much appreciated and love the narration, you remind me of Stanley Unwin without the Unwinese and I mean that as a compliment. Btw, I like the Kadee whisker and pockets as well but it's not worth my while changing.
When you look at standard Märklin/Trix the couplings (you had difficulty engaging even on the straight with a set that looks similar) they have a little spring attached on the inner part, that keeps the couplings straight, yet give the freedom for cornering. That works ok and it has a little downward plate that worked by pushing it up with remote decoupling elements built into the rails
Hi John, An amazing and well informed vid, very thorough. A couple of things: Electrotren are Spanish (now part of Hornby International), as I understand it the loop & hook couplers you showed (the metal ones hard to couple up) were introduced by Marklin in 1956 and when the NEM organisation was formed they used that one as their basis for a standard coupler. If anyone knows better they can feel free to correct me. As for the NEM coupler pockets Bachmann make them and are available from most UK model train shops. They come with couplings as well which I didn't use when I got mine as I have all Kadee or Kadee-compatible couplings now. When I say Kadee-compatible one of those brands is McHenry (part of the Athern group). They are cheaper as they are mostly plastic. Bachmann ones (EZ-mate) are the same. As for the coupler bars - you showed the Bachmann one, they also do others with brass conductors in them for electrical signals. A few years ago I got a pack of 10 Brawa ones and I think a few other brands might supply them as well. - Dennis
Hello John, Many thanks for a very informative video on all the different couplings .It's quite mind boggling how many different types there are available .I think that one of the most frustrating things in model railways is the automatic uncouplers .Would love to hear your views re this problem .
I think that the unknown coupler that you liked that was not a solid loop were infact Roco Universal Couplers RH040352 they latch up nice and tight and are easy to work with and are very interesting, thank you for the great video.
The coupling shown at 37:56 is the Roco's "universal" coupling, and it works with the standard (the previously showed) EU , old Trix , and old Fleischmann couplings as well. It even pulls the cars closer without of a need of a close-Coupling mechanism. It is very reliable, hardy ever fails, and that's why its my choice as my standard Coupling on most of my EU rolling-stock , it can't couple in a curve but NON of the other EU Couplings ment to do that.
Thank you!!! This was the exact info I was hoping to find and when he didn't know I'm like - I hope it's in the comments> Winner Winner. I have a Trix loco coming with Telex coupler and needed to figure out how to convert some of my rolling stock to work with it. Mission accomplished.
An excellent vid John. I think the last coupling you showed I.E. the push fit is in fact an Airfix type that is now available from Hornby. I tend to use some of the smaller type in Airfix wagons and are more compatable with the more small tension lock type from Hornby and Bachmann. The Roco type coupler shown as an interlocking NEM type are good but they can be a real pain to couple up .I do tend to use the Kaydee system where possible but as you say there are discrepencies in height by Bachmann in particular leading to stock uncoupling . Denis
Fantastic information John. Its different from the "Know your couplings" & much needed information. But we modelers do have to press on the manufacturers of British model trains for the regulations on the "stock - coupling mountings" to address the associated problems due to variations. Just a thought- "may be- just may be" it wld be a good idea to have the NEM coupling sockets on all the forth coming models trains in OO/HO! Also a "no-no" to the plastic ones- they tend to be brittle anyways... Very helpful video indeed!
Thanks for informative video. Page 925 of Railway Modeller, Nov 2015 shows a Brelec electric coupling which fits an NEM pocket. Right up your street for your next video!
was thinking of getting into fleischmann and roco locomotives. your coupler video is just what I was needing. I am from north america and was wanting info on the nem pockets and couplings. thanks for a well done video!!!
I have also seen the type 3 spring loaded couplers fitted to have the hook upside down, hooking the d ring from underneath. Seems when a magnet is fitted between the rails it makes a nice decoupler for a shunting yard. One other style I have seen in videos is the very simple 3 link chain....has to be attached entirely by hand, not sure if many people use this, maybe only on historic rolling stock? Anyways great video, and thanks!
The Fleischmann Profi coupling NEM are quite popular in Ho. The Roco Universal Coupler in the height adjustable version is probably the best all round. Both look more realistic than the daft looking older British OO designs !
Fascinating description of the multiplicity of couplings. I am interested to know the make and model of the black locomotive featured at the 9.37 min part of the video as I believe I may have had this loco as a child.
Hi buddy, thanks for your comment. At the time you noted there are 2 locomotives in question. One is a co-co diesel & the other is a steamer. They are both Hornby AcHo locomotives....hope that helps? Cheers, John.
John this is interesting stuff but to add to your INFO here in Aussie triang/hornby were always the D type mark 2b and Lima was the ones you are referring to as the European style at 13.20. It lead to a whole lot of problems here as they arent compatible so to run a mix of T/H and Lima which was all that were then available here you had to make some sort of carrage with one style one end and the other style on the other. OR just have Lima only with Lima and T/H only with T/H again not a very satisfactory solution. Eventually we did get access to KeeDee couplers but this made life hard also since you had to fix to carrages not to bogies and so it ment curve radii had to be LARGE to prevent de rails or unhooks this was the state of play in the mid 1990's here i have since got out of HO/OO and whent to N and even that is no longer a reality unfortunately i due to space am restricted to computer trains now
Dear Becky...thanks so very much for the detailed & informative comments....so very glad you got to the problem in the end by going N scale! hahaha. All the best to you, John.
Hell John The coupling you spoke about at the end whcih you find 'annoying' has quite a story to it. They were designed and used by Airfix when they were making their amazing railway range. Airfix used the slim type coupling and the wide type couplings that you showed. Recently Hornby has gotten hold of the molds that Airfix use to use and have started to use their coupling system with their models. An example of this is the base that Hornby uses for their wagons which has this same coupling system. There are not any conversion things that I know of for converting this coupling type to NEM type, I have been thinking about making something that will work. I hope this info helped the matter. If you require any more information, Simply reply to this comment or comment on a video of mine to get my attention. Cheers! -Lettuce
Hey buddy fantastic! I am always grateful when people take the time-out to add info to my channel! Always very much appreciated. I'll sure be back to you if I have any further coupling problems like you have explained? Thanks again my friend, John.
just getting into the hobby and I have accumulated a mixture of couplings on the various pieces of rolling stock. This prompts, in my inexperienced head, some questions. Is there any benefit to changing out couplings to arrive at a common one across the fleet? Have you done a video on how its done? (Apologies if you have - I simply haven't worked through your full output yet!
old to comment... All Kadee couplers are knuckle couplers. Not all knuckle couplers are Kadee. EZ is Athearn; also had finger tab springs, and metal springs, Proto's have two types in metal and plastic, Accurail has their own couplers, old horn hooks and knuckles. There are also three different types of knuckle coupler devices. Use your arm/wrist/fingers: 1. Forearm flex (rigid wrist and fingers) Accurail three piece (includes metal brake hose.) Pre-assembled on most Silver/Gold series Atlas locomotives. 2. Wrist flex (rigid forearm and fingers) body-mount knuckles on most kits and ready to run. 3. Finger flex (mostly very old kits) also has pin-glad hand (brake hose) release that must be raised from bottom of it to uncouple it.
interesting john, its nealy as bad as transistors mate. i recon its something a lot of us didnt know a great deal about, the record is now streight. thanks john
hello john, long time viewer, first time commenter. I have always admired your videos and have always wondered how you make your videos editing and audio wise) if you could share some hints and tips with a newbie I would really appreciate it.
helo John thanks for showing the different types of couplers ..i love the hornby couplers they are the most secure and i never loose half a train when its running . KD on the other hand to me is a nightmare . i run a few USA passenger trains about 6 to 8 cars each and i get so frustrated the couplers are allways disconnecting is there any way to stop this i am sure these kds will work if i can just work out how to get them to. any suggestions except from throwing the lot into the bin best regards Albert
The Rovex Mark.I. coupling (male on the Rovex Princess tender) will hook to the Triang Mark.II. OK. The Rovex coupling is auto couple but requires a pencil / screwdriver pushed against the male coupling weight to uncouple.The Hornby Dublo coupling was licenced from Peco and is called the Peco Anita type. It is possible to push them to one side and loose shunt with them (fly shunt even!!).Fell out of popularity in the 1960's because, apart from Triang taking over Hornby, fitting a Triang Mark.III. coupling to a kit built loco or wagon is far easier than fitting a Peco Anita coupling. Peco still manufacture and sell Anita couplings.You missed out the Airfix minature descrete tension lock coupling. Also the Lanal that was used by Jouef before they first adpoted Peco Anita couplings and then the Triang Mark.III.The Triang Mark.II. is based on the Lanal, which originated in the US for guage 1 model trains.The Lanal hook can be pushed to one side with a screwdriver as it has a central "lip" on top of the loop so that loose shunting can be performed. Underneath the hook is two seperate "tangs" with one for an uncoupling ramp and the "J" shaped one for catching with a screwdriver in order to off centre the hook for loose shunting.Airfix and later Dapol re-issued railway stock kits used a version of the "Hook & Horn" coupling.
Excellent video. A question if I may. I have some old Triang TT gauge wagons, with the Mk3 couplings, whose hook arm has become stiff with age, and will not stop freely. How do I remedy the problem? Oil the pivot? Thank you.
John, have you ever thought of using scale 3 link couplings on some stock, and maybe making a video on it? This subject seems to have a drought of information on it.
The European model trains standards setting organisation, called "MOROP" [from Belgium?] developed the "NEM" standards. The NEM standards include couplers, wheels, & other measurements. "DOGA" from the UK, tested & adopted the NEM standards for the UK. I'm a member of DOGA. All Double O Gauge [DOG] enthusiasts should join DOGA. They're a great bunch of modellers! "Kadee" is a brand that makes knuckle couplers. They make mostly metal knuckles that don't break, although you'll have "fun" reinserting the lost springs!
Im a big fan of the Hornby Dublo type coupling John, and in my opinion Hornby made a big mistake when they took over Tri-ang by not carrying on with this type, but I am not a fan of tension locks, especially the big ones.good informative video Ian H.
Hi ian & thanks for the comment. We all have our own views on things in life! For me, the Mk3 'D' coupling is brilliant & the Hornby Dublo couplings are a massive pain in the ass!! Let's agree to disagree here mate...it takes all kinds! hahaha. My best to you as always, John.
Ok... I can see the advantage of NEM couplers and the Kadee couplers...I am in Australia... I have Lima, Bachmann, Hornby, Mainline, plus a few Aussie made models in my collection and they all have different couplers.. I would like to be able to change to the Kadee couplers, but I cannot seem to find a supplier of the NEM pockets you referred to.... What is the correct search name (or a supplier) for them? - Cheers
Hi buddy & thanks for your comment/question. OK, you can only fit the NEM pockets to items that have this facility however...you can glue them to other items should you wish but taking care you get the height correct. I just checked on ebay for you & I cannot find the NEM pockets on their own at the moment which is a bit strange as a pack of 10 or 20 are usually on? You can see on this listing the pockets but with couplings as well. Hope this helps? All the best, John. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-36-027-Couplings-NEM-Shaft-Cranked-with-Pocket-x10-OO-Gauge-/351832149335?hash=item51ead48d57:g:Qk0AAOSwMgdXz~iG
Hi John Can the later Hornby couplings be used in conjunction with the earlier Mk III D type? And what is NEM an abbreviation for? Very informative...thank you Brian
Best video on couplings ive yet seen. Its frustrating that rolling stock i want has different couplings from the tender of my loco.
Thanks for a very interesting video on couplings, I'll have a closer look at mine now, I now understand a lot more than I didn't before TC Ktf
Nicely done John,I must admit I was not to familiar with all the couplings and my wagons and coaches would separate as they would be going around and im sure that it was because of the different couplings,but I didnt know that here is so many out there.
Thanks for sharing mate.
For your annoying coupler holding socket on rolling stock you can do a mod. Simply measure it to the NEM type socket for height and centring, then cut away the old one from the wagon etc. Then file away any access material or add a shim of plastic card and glue it into position. Keeping an eye on your measurements for fitting the NEM socket before hand. Add a lick of black paint to cover any plastic card or where and metal has been filed away and the job is done. Also note the D etc coupling with the spring for the hook, some times can fall out and get lost (especially in N gauge). So I glue on a slip of paper on top and paint it black. Though before I do I add a small droplet of oil to keep it lubricated for operational purpose's. Then again give it a lick of black paint or use a black permanent marker to shade the paper black so it isn't noticeable. I hope this help John and any viewers watching.
Great ideas there John. Thanks for posting on my channel. I am sure this will be helpful to other visitors! All the best, John.
I watched Coupling full movie here twitter.com/38934c7f527b2b849/status/824453567545094144
Great video John. Another channel also said ‘make sure you polish the D coupling frame nice and smooth’. The reason being that when negotiating any curves the coupling will slide without snagging
G'day John, Very good 101 on couplings. Just a few small inputs. The Hornby Dublo coupling was patented by the Pritchard Co, Peco. in their early years. It was licensed out to Meccano and made Peco a lot of money. The 3 couplings that you call Kadee are in fact a Kadee #5, Kadee Whisker & the third one is a Bachmann US Ezymate coupling. These are Plastic and I find they can very easily break their shaft. Where Kadee seem to be a lot stronger even their plastic shaft models. While I am at it I think you made a Remagnetizer. I have been using a Hornby one for some 40 years and I think you can improve your model and make it easier to use by fixing one of you poles and tilting the unit so that the other pole slide up and down as this will do away with both poles having to be adjust and free up one hand. I hope I am not to forward in suggesting this. Graeme Hearn Yerong Creek, NSW. Australia
Great video. Before I ripped down my last layout and built my very smooth new layout, couplings drove me crazy. When rakes came down my declines, they would just uncouple. I finally started using the Electrotren style and my troubles reduced but did not go away because I had exchanged random uncoupling for derailments. Since I built my new layout I am not having trouble with any style coupling because I went to great pains making the track smooth. Thanks for the video, loved it. Rob
Great video John! Its usually bad news to mix the hornby d coupling and the mainline d coupling on a train can often lead to derailments. IMO the golden rule has to be try and make your consists have the same type of coupling throughout, not always possible but gnerally speaking you can steer clear of trouble that way.
Had 00's when a kid, I'm now 63 and just starting to collect bits to make up a set for my 3, 4 and 5yo grandkids to enjoy when they visit (and me :P) I had no idea about the Triang/Hornby 'D' couplings which is what I have and Yes some are different.. Much appreciated and love the narration, you remind me of Stanley Unwin without the Unwinese and I mean that as a compliment. Btw, I like the Kadee whisker and pockets as well but it's not worth my while changing.
When you look at standard Märklin/Trix the couplings (you had difficulty engaging even on the straight with a set that looks similar) they have a little spring attached on the inner part, that keeps the couplings straight, yet give the freedom for cornering. That works ok and it has a little downward plate that worked by pushing it up with remote decoupling elements built into the rails
Hi John, An amazing and well informed vid, very thorough.
A couple of things: Electrotren are Spanish (now part of Hornby International), as I understand it the loop & hook couplers you showed (the metal ones hard to couple up) were introduced by Marklin in 1956 and when the NEM organisation was formed they used that one as their basis for a standard coupler. If anyone knows better they can feel free to correct me.
As for the NEM coupler pockets Bachmann make them and are available from most UK model train shops. They come with couplings as well which I didn't use when I got mine as I have all Kadee or Kadee-compatible couplings now. When I say Kadee-compatible one of those brands is McHenry (part of the Athern group). They are cheaper as they are mostly plastic. Bachmann ones (EZ-mate) are the same.
As for the coupler bars - you showed the Bachmann one, they also do others with brass conductors in them for electrical signals. A few years ago I got a pack of 10 Brawa ones and I think a few other brands might supply them as well. - Dennis
Hello John, Many thanks for a very informative video on all the different couplings .It's quite mind boggling how many different types there are available .I think that one of the most frustrating things in model railways is the automatic uncouplers .Would love to hear your views re this problem .
I think that the unknown coupler that you liked that was not a solid loop were infact Roco Universal Couplers RH040352 they latch up nice and tight and are easy to work with and are very interesting, thank you for the great video.
Very interesting thank you for taking the time to do this video.
The coupling shown at 37:56 is the Roco's "universal" coupling, and it works with the standard (the previously showed) EU , old Trix , and old Fleischmann couplings as well. It even pulls the cars closer without of a need of a close-Coupling mechanism. It is very reliable, hardy ever fails, and that's why its my choice as my standard Coupling on most of my EU rolling-stock , it can't couple in a curve but NON of the other EU Couplings ment to do that.
Thank you!!! This was the exact info I was hoping to find and when he didn't know I'm like - I hope it's in the comments> Winner Winner. I have a Trix loco coming with Telex coupler and needed to figure out how to convert some of my rolling stock to work with it. Mission accomplished.
@@4everunner I hope it works out for U, like with most system it functions the best with it self (but it is called universal for a reason)!
An excellent vid John. I think the last coupling you showed I.E. the push fit is in fact an Airfix type that is now available from Hornby. I tend to use some of the smaller type in Airfix wagons and are more compatable with the more small tension lock type from Hornby and Bachmann. The Roco type coupler shown as an interlocking NEM type are good but they can be a real pain to couple up .I do tend to use the Kaydee system where possible but as you say there are discrepencies in height by Bachmann in particular leading to stock uncoupling . Denis
Fantastic information John. Its different from the "Know your couplings" & much needed information. But we modelers do have to press on the manufacturers of British model trains for the regulations on the "stock - coupling mountings" to address the associated problems due to variations. Just a thought- "may be- just may be" it wld be a good idea to have the NEM coupling sockets on all the forth coming models trains in OO/HO! Also a "no-no" to the plastic ones- they tend to be brittle anyways...
Very helpful video indeed!
great video to keep for future reference thanks very much for posting John
KALIGUA methinks was probably a shorter film on fancy couplings . But a masterclass sir , non-the-less !
+SuperWHIZZO OK buddy thanks for the kind comment. Cheers, John.
Thanks for informative video. Page 925 of Railway Modeller, Nov 2015 shows a Brelec electric coupling which fits an NEM pocket. Right up your street for your next video!
was thinking of getting into fleischmann and roco locomotives. your coupler video is just what I was needing. I am from north america and was wanting info on the nem pockets and couplings. thanks for a well done video!!!
+roger glasgo Thanks a bunch Roger...glad to be of help. Cheers, John.
The thick plastic HD/Wrenn couplings are a much later versions of the metal style. The metal style was licensed from Peco's Simplex range.
you coupler maniac! i love couplings too... especially their history for the big trains... :-)
Hi John, excellent video on couplings. Being new to the hobby I found it very helpful in understanding the different types of couplings...Simon
Nice.
Loved this video. Well done, sir.
Same here
I have also seen the type 3 spring loaded couplers fitted to have the hook upside down, hooking the d ring from underneath. Seems when a magnet is fitted between the rails it makes a nice decoupler for a shunting yard. One other style I have seen in videos is the very simple 3 link chain....has to be attached entirely by hand, not sure if many people use this, maybe only on historic rolling stock? Anyways great video, and thanks!
Great video on all the different types of model railway couplings.Very informative and so interesting to watch .Well done
My first trains had either the Mark 3 or 4. Always thought they looked unrealistic. I wanted chains and stuff like on Thomas.
Always enjoy your uploads John...cheers.
The Fleischmann Profi coupling NEM are quite popular in Ho. The Roco Universal Coupler in the height adjustable version is probably the best all round. Both look more realistic than the daft looking older British OO designs !
Here's a video ruclips.net/video/w0hBv6mDhOc/видео.html
Thank you.
great explaination and presentation. thank-you.
One word "Excellent"
An engaging education. Thanks.
very helpful - thank you
Excellent.
Fascinating description of the multiplicity of couplings. I am interested to know the make and model of the black locomotive featured at the 9.37 min part of the video as I believe I may have had this loco as a child.
Hi buddy, thanks for your comment. At the time you noted there are 2 locomotives in question. One is a co-co diesel & the other is a steamer. They are both Hornby AcHo locomotives....hope that helps? Cheers, John.
Thank you, yes I have now identified it as a Hornby 636 Acho Class 131TB42 2-6-2T of the SNCF which is the "French' loco I had as a nipper!
John this is interesting stuff but to add to your INFO here in Aussie triang/hornby were always the D type mark 2b and Lima was the ones you are referring to as the European style at 13.20. It lead to a whole lot of problems here as they arent compatible so to run a mix of T/H and Lima which was all that were then available here you had to make some sort of carrage with one style one end and the other style on the other. OR just have Lima only with Lima and T/H only with T/H again not a very satisfactory solution. Eventually we did get access to KeeDee couplers but this made life hard also since you had to fix to carrages not to bogies and so it ment curve radii had to be LARGE to prevent de rails or unhooks this was the state of play in the mid 1990's here i have since got out of HO/OO and whent to N and even that is no longer a reality unfortunately i due to space am restricted to computer trains now
Dear Becky...thanks so very much for the detailed & informative comments....so very glad you got to the problem in the end by going N scale! hahaha. All the best to you, John.
Hell John
The coupling you spoke about at the end whcih you find 'annoying' has quite a story to it. They were designed and used by Airfix when they were making their amazing railway range. Airfix used the slim type coupling and the wide type couplings that you showed. Recently Hornby has gotten hold of the molds that Airfix use to use and have started to use their coupling system with their models. An example of this is the base that Hornby uses for their wagons which has this same coupling system.
There are not any conversion things that I know of for converting this coupling type to NEM type, I have been thinking about making something that will work.
I hope this info helped the matter. If you require any more information, Simply reply to this comment or comment on a video of mine to get my attention.
Cheers!
-Lettuce
Hey buddy fantastic! I am always grateful when people take the time-out to add info to my channel! Always very much appreciated. I'll sure be back to you if I have any further coupling problems like you have explained? Thanks again my friend, John.
just getting into the hobby and I have accumulated a mixture of couplings on the various pieces of rolling stock. This prompts, in my inexperienced head, some questions. Is there any benefit to changing out couplings to arrive at a common one across the fleet? Have you done a video on how its done? (Apologies if you have - I simply haven't worked through your full output yet!
Thank you. This has been a very information vid. Which is your preferred coupler?
old to comment... All Kadee couplers are knuckle couplers. Not all knuckle couplers are Kadee. EZ is Athearn; also had finger tab springs, and metal springs, Proto's have two types in metal and plastic, Accurail has their own couplers, old horn hooks and knuckles.
There are also three different types of knuckle coupler devices. Use your arm/wrist/fingers:
1. Forearm flex (rigid wrist and fingers) Accurail three piece (includes metal brake hose.) Pre-assembled on most Silver/Gold series Atlas locomotives.
2. Wrist flex (rigid forearm and fingers) body-mount knuckles on most kits and ready to run.
3. Finger flex (mostly very old kits) also has pin-glad hand (brake hose) release that must be raised from bottom of it to uncouple it.
interesting john, its nealy as bad as transistors mate. i recon its something a lot of us didnt know a great deal about, the record is now streight. thanks john
Great video - thanks for posting. New to this and found it very informative.
11:06 i have a Marklin (sorry if i typed it wrong) passenger with the exact same couplers!
hello john, long time viewer, first time commenter. I have always admired your videos and have always wondered how you make your videos editing and audio wise) if you could share some hints and tips with a newbie I would really appreciate it.
helo John thanks for showing the different types of couplers ..i love the hornby couplers they are the most secure and i never loose half a train when its running . KD on the other hand to me is a nightmare . i run a few USA passenger trains about 6 to 8 cars each and i get so frustrated the couplers are allways disconnecting is there any way to stop this i am sure these kds will work if i can just work out how to get them to. any suggestions except from throwing the lot into the bin best regards Albert
The Rovex Mark.I. coupling (male on the Rovex Princess tender) will hook to the Triang Mark.II. OK. The Rovex coupling is auto couple but requires a pencil / screwdriver pushed against the male coupling weight to uncouple.The Hornby Dublo coupling was licenced from Peco and is called the Peco Anita type. It is possible to push them to one side and loose shunt with them (fly shunt even!!).Fell out of popularity in the 1960's because, apart from Triang taking over Hornby, fitting a Triang Mark.III. coupling to a kit built loco or wagon is far easier than fitting a Peco Anita coupling. Peco still manufacture and sell Anita couplings.You missed out the Airfix minature descrete tension lock coupling. Also the Lanal that was used by Jouef before they first adpoted Peco Anita couplings and then the Triang Mark.III.The Triang Mark.II. is based on the Lanal, which originated in the US for guage 1 model trains.The Lanal hook can be pushed to one side with a screwdriver as it has a central "lip" on top of the loop so that loose shunting can be performed. Underneath the hook is two seperate "tangs" with one for an uncoupling ramp and the "J" shaped one for catching with a screwdriver in order to off centre the hook for loose shunting.Airfix and later Dapol re-issued railway stock kits used a version of the "Hook & Horn" coupling.
Excellent video. A question if I may. I have some old Triang TT gauge wagons, with the Mk3 couplings, whose hook arm has become stiff with age, and will not stop freely. How do I remedy the problem? Oil the pivot? Thank you.
John, have you ever thought of using scale 3 link couplings on some stock, and maybe making a video on it? This subject seems to have a drought of information on it.
The European model trains standards setting organisation, called "MOROP" [from Belgium?] developed the "NEM" standards. The NEM standards include couplers, wheels, & other measurements. "DOGA" from the UK, tested & adopted the NEM standards for the UK. I'm a member of DOGA. All Double O Gauge [DOG] enthusiasts should join DOGA. They're a great bunch of modellers! "Kadee" is a brand that makes knuckle couplers. They make mostly metal knuckles that don't break, although you'll have "fun" reinserting the lost springs!
nice one.jpj
a lot of battery operated trains use those hook and loop type couplers
Im a big fan of the Hornby Dublo type coupling John, and in my opinion Hornby made a big mistake when they took over Tri-ang by not carrying on with this type, but I am not a fan of tension locks, especially the big ones.good informative video Ian H.
Hi ian & thanks for the comment. We all have our own views on things in life! For me, the Mk3 'D' coupling is brilliant & the Hornby Dublo couplings are a massive pain in the ass!! Let's agree to disagree here mate...it takes all kinds! hahaha. My best to you as always, John.
Electrotren, is the Spanish, owned Hornby now. They don't couple the real thing on tight curves, so why would you try to do the same in model form?
Can't find those Bachmann bars anywhere, where do you get them.
I did one yours is much better!!!
Ok... I can see the advantage of NEM couplers and the Kadee couplers...I am in Australia... I have Lima, Bachmann, Hornby, Mainline, plus a few Aussie made models in my collection and they all have different couplers.. I would like to be able to change to the Kadee couplers, but I cannot seem to find a supplier of the NEM pockets you referred to.... What is the correct search name (or a supplier) for them? - Cheers
Hi buddy & thanks for your comment/question. OK, you can only fit the NEM pockets to items that have this facility however...you can glue them to other items should you wish but taking care you get the height correct. I just checked on ebay for you & I cannot find the NEM pockets on their own at the moment which is a bit strange as a pack of 10 or 20 are usually on? You can see on this listing the pockets but with couplings as well. Hope this helps? All the best, John. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-36-027-Couplings-NEM-Shaft-Cranked-with-Pocket-x10-OO-Gauge-/351832149335?hash=item51ead48d57:g:Qk0AAOSwMgdXz~iG
Coupling movie here => twitter.com/2bd22bd229acb0dd1/status/824453567545094144
ha-ha great thumbnail john
Hi John
Can the later Hornby couplings be used in conjunction with the earlier Mk III D type?
And what is NEM an abbreviation for?
Very informative...thank you
Brian
normal europian modeling standard
NEM stands for Normen Europäischer Modellbahnen.
Electrotrain or Electrotren its real is a Spanish company based in Spain.
people say this hobby is dying with the next generation (TNG xD) Im 13 I Love It ( And Star Trek xD )
Who else hates that Hornby has different couplers then ALL of the other train companies?
the coupler at 12 21 in the video I have on lima coaches
I hate them most of the time
only a total train head would call 2007 ''two double 0 seven''........
these continental couplers are called "märklin bügelkupplung". they are horrible...
john whats wrong ,your not having your cup a tea .?