Great video! Finally a video that also shows the decent. I'm planning to go in 3 weeks with a guide. Can you maybe share your experience in terms of being physically ready? I'm training a lot but I never know when I'm ready. Do you maybe have an example of running x distance over y amount of time?
@@GuyGabriel-eu7hb eventually didn't manage to climb it due to heavy snow fall .. Used my guide to do some AD ridges as preparation and now planning to climb Matterhorn early July
@@GuyGabriel-eu7hb Hey, unfortunately we had to cancel due to snow .. That's the risk with going in September. Did some nice AD ridges around Chamonix instead. I booked my Matterhorn climb for this year now, 2nd weak of July
@@daska1477 Thx for the reply. I'll be in Zermatt in September (Not to climb the Matterhorn) but just for some hiking. Not sure what to expect for weather so I'm preparing for a variety of conditions. Good luck on your trip in July!
Congrats Mr. X LI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice adventure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Chapeau!!!!! (((I also climbed the Matterhorn Route Leone and Route Hornli))) 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯 BEST WISHES
When you are rappelling down a surface, once you are down, does the person belaying the rope above you just have to free climb down? or does the last person end up leaving ropes behind? how does that work/
No visit to Zermatt should exclude a trip to the cemetery to see the graves of brave young (mainly) men who have lost their lives on here. Usually I suspect in descending
The mountain guide has very good stability and lots of more experience than the client. The goal of the short rope is to stop the momentum of falling when the client loses balance or stumbles. But on the other hand accidents do happen on Matterhorn so need to stay focused not to fall at all.
@@xli6645 Yes, I see. But it's still a risk for the guide too - as you also mentioned. Actually a local quite famous guide went into his death like that. You may need to translate it: de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norbert_Joos -> Tod am Piz Bernina - one slips - 3 died at the end.
Very bad technic. You walk on rock with a rope : if one fall the two die and, anyway, the rope may push rock that fall and kill someone. You walk with crampon on snow without piolet : no chance. You have not enough knowledge or experience to go on big summit like Matterhorn, so you are dangerous. Please stop it and go on more easy montains.
the guide has done matterhorn over 70 times and some local guides have done it over 200 times so i trust them for their experience and craft :) no piolet is a choice depending on the conditions of the day
Yeah what's the point of the rope if you're just gonna hold it in your hand. I'm against any kind of guiding in the mountains. If you need a guide, probably shouldn't be up there.
Interesting how differently people see this. From my experience the belaying technique (I reckon) you're referring to and that is being shown here (the one with the short rope that's almost under constant tension and basically being used by every single roped party you can see in the video) is the standard for climbing in dangerous but not too difficult, rocky terrain in most part of the alps. I actually think it's pretty much exactly what is being taught to mountain guides in Switzerland. Alpine schools in Austria (these are the ones I know) are more conservative about this specific technique, but that doesn't make it unsafe as I think we all can agree that Swiss climbers aren't exactly the worst in the world. ;) This technique sure is a more risky one, you're right, but still it's an excellent and efficient option for roped parties with a big incline in experience and/or skills to minimize risk and also your time on the ridge which is of course critical in such difficult terrain with a big risk of rock fall. The video also shows that in steep and vertical terrain the guide of course used different techniques so I think this is actually a textbook example of belaying in a no fall zone on a rocky ridge like Matterhorn. Also I don't see a reason to use a piolet in these conditions and I've never heard about a rule that says you have to use one when wearing crampons. :) Regarding oskar's comment: I think It's an excellent and reasonable decision to climb with a guide - if I had to choose between a person who has gone through a very difficult exam, has tons of experience with rope and climbing technique and has been on the very mountain I'm interested in dozens of times and soloing it or climbing it with my buddy from back home who has also never been there, I'd stick with the guide 10/10 times. Very interesting and rare video! Thanks for sharing and congrats on summiting! Edit: Typos
great down climbing movie as not so populat as ascending. thx
Getting to the top is optional. Getting back is mandatory.
Thank you for sharing, I have always wanted to see how the descent looks like off such a mountain.
Wow Great Video
Fascinating and, of cause, very brave. I believe climbing down (not "down climbing") a mountain can be even more dangerous than the ascent!
That's where most of the accidents happen
Down climbing is the process of climbing, but downwards. Down climbing = climbing down
I stand corrected. Thank you.@@tollie_rowlands09
Thanks for the full video!
Thank you for sharing as well
請問此行嚮導收費是多少？您是事先預約還是到策馬特才找到嚮導帶隊？
感謝分享。
（我在）2022年八月上去過，但是是與台灣友人一同前往，那時候山上沒什麼雪，當地嚮導協會自主決定禁止帶隊攀登，故我們兩人自己上頂峰。
想有機會再上去，擬聘請當地嚮導。
去年的话自主攀登是允许的，还有几位是solo的。 花费的话是三千欧元往上，还是蛮贵的。很佩服敢自主攀登的👍
Great video! Finally a video that also shows the decent. I'm planning to go in 3 weeks with a guide. Can you maybe share your experience in terms of being physically ready? I'm training a lot but I never know when I'm ready. Do you maybe have an example of running x distance over y amount of time?
I think scrambling with backpack on grade 3 rock and trail running can be helpful. Also get good acclimatization is key. Good luck!
Hos was your trip?
@@GuyGabriel-eu7hb eventually didn't manage to climb it due to heavy snow fall .. Used my guide to do some AD ridges as preparation and now planning to climb Matterhorn early July
@@GuyGabriel-eu7hb Hey, unfortunately we had to cancel due to snow .. That's the risk with going in September. Did some nice AD ridges around Chamonix instead. I booked my Matterhorn climb for this year now, 2nd weak of July
@@daska1477 Thx for the reply. I'll be in Zermatt in September (Not to climb the Matterhorn) but just for some hiking. Not sure what to expect for weather so I'm preparing for a variety of conditions. Good luck on your trip in July!
Thanks for the video! Really interesting to see the mixture of styles used to get back down. Some of the comments on here are so ill-informed.
Congrats Mr. X LI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice adventure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chapeau!!!!!
(((I also climbed the Matterhorn
Route Leone and Route Hornli)))
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
BEST WISHES
looks fun
whats 'fun' about it.
@@TheBlueCream the view, the risks, and the physical challenges.Why ask? You plan on going? Lol
This doesn't look too difficult in the non-climbing sections. Maybe T5. It just seems to be quite steep but with good steps most of the time.
Hi, great video & really helpful as I find down climbing harder than ascending. What boots are you wearing?
the mammut taiss light
Yea, the descenting was mentally bitter part. Congrats!
When you are rappelling down a surface, once you are down, does the person belaying the rope above you just have to free climb down? or does the last person end up leaving ropes behind? how does that work/
yes the guide would down climb after
Nice what month of the year was this?
August of 2023
What route is this?
It’s the hörnli route
dunno if there is a summit worth short leashing
Omg, im just getting sick of watching these videos … thanks for sharing great video !
No visit to Zermatt should exclude a trip to the cemetery to see the graves of brave young (mainly) men who have lost their lives on here. Usually I suspect in descending
Well, now i know of a good spot, to take my gal, when she acts up! 😂 just kidding !!
And if one falls down, how much is the chance the other can a) save him or b) gets pulled down as well.
The mountain guide has very good stability and lots of more experience than the client. The goal of the short rope is to stop the momentum of falling when the client loses balance or stumbles. But on the other hand accidents do happen on Matterhorn so need to stay focused not to fall at all.
@@xli6645 Yes, I see. But it's still a risk for the guide too - as you also mentioned.
Actually a local quite famous guide went into his death like that. You may need to translate it: de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norbert_Joos -> Tod am Piz Bernina - one slips - 3 died at the end.
The fish eye lense distorts so much that you get false impressions.
Es sieht so aus, als gäbe es auf der Route viele lose Steine.
Ja auf jeden Fall
you need a wingsuit
This is not a true achievement if the guide does the hard work for you. You just buy the summit.
Very bad technic.
You walk on rock with a rope : if one fall the two die and, anyway, the rope may push rock that fall and kill someone.
You walk with crampon on snow without piolet : no chance.
You have not enough knowledge or experience to go on big summit like Matterhorn, so you are dangerous.
Please stop it and go on more easy montains.
the guide has done matterhorn over 70 times and some local guides have done it over 200 times so i trust them for their experience and craft :) no piolet is a choice depending on the conditions of the day
@@xli6645 Sorry, I had not seen that your guide is Superman. Nothing could happen to you.🙄
Yeah what's the point of the rope if you're just gonna hold it in your hand. I'm against any kind of guiding in the mountains. If you need a guide, probably shouldn't be up there.
Interesting how differently people see this.
From my experience the belaying technique (I reckon) you're referring to and that is being shown here (the one with the short rope that's almost under constant tension and basically being used by every single roped party you can see in the video) is the standard for climbing in dangerous but not too difficult, rocky terrain in most part of the alps. I actually think it's pretty much exactly what is being taught to mountain guides in Switzerland. Alpine schools in Austria (these are the ones I know) are more conservative about this specific technique, but that doesn't make it unsafe as I think we all can agree that Swiss climbers aren't exactly the worst in the world. ;)
This technique sure is a more risky one, you're right, but still it's an excellent and efficient option for roped parties with a big incline in experience and/or skills to minimize risk and also your time on the ridge which is of course critical in such difficult terrain with a big risk of rock fall. The video also shows that in steep and vertical terrain the guide of course used different techniques so I think this is actually a textbook example of belaying in a no fall zone on a rocky ridge like Matterhorn. Also I don't see a reason to use a piolet in these conditions and I've never heard about a rule that says you have to use one when wearing crampons. :)
Regarding oskar's comment: I think It's an excellent and reasonable decision to climb with a guide - if I had to choose between a person who has gone through a very difficult exam, has tons of experience with rope and climbing technique and has been on the very mountain I'm interested in dozens of times and soloing it or climbing it with my buddy from back home who has also never been there, I'd stick with the guide 10/10 times.
Very interesting and rare video! Thanks for sharing and congrats on summiting!
Edit: Typos
@@stereoptr great explanation and spot on!