I’m so disappointed to see the crowds, but I guess it’s to be expected now. The Hornli hut apparently holds 180 people! My brother and I climbed it in 1973 when we were 15 and 17. The hut was tiny, the caretaker woke you up at the hour you asked for, there were no fixed ropes and only about 15 other people on the mountain that day (July). We left around 2am and we were back in Zermatt by midnight (we’d already spent a month in Charmonix). I’m so pleased for you that you reached the summit and clearly had a wonderful time: I can hear it in your voice. From Zermatt we climbed the north face of the Eiger, and I see that it now costs about $7000 to hire a guide for that two day trip!!!! Terrible what’s happened to the wilderness. With my best regards. Best of Luck
This is a fantastic video John and firstly, huge congratulations on climbing such an iconic mountain and for producing such an amazing documentary of your trip as well as terrific photos. We visited Zermatt in 2015 when they were celebrating the 150th anniversary of the first climbing of the mountain by Edward Whymper in 1865, and were thankfully blessed with glorious weather for the entire week in which we were there. The Matterhorn was the only mountain in the world that I had absolutely wanted to see with my own eyes and it did not disappoint - in fact, we were completely blown away by it ! I don't think that any mountain dominates its surroundings in the same way that the Matterhorn does to Zermatt and we took so many photographs of it, as well as recording on our I Pod the lighting up of the route each night with the solar lamps that Swiss guides had placed on the mountain. However, where I differ from all mountaineers is that, whilst I can appreciate the incredible beauty and grandeur of the mountain, I would be absolutely terrified of trying to climb it (or any other mountain for that matter !). I have always been at a complete loss to understand how such an activity can be so pleasurable ? Even just seeing the summit ridge on film made me feel ill, and I simply cannot comprehend that it can be wide enough to stand on, let alone walk along or pass people on. I don't think that I have a daring bone in my body and I would love someone to explain to me how hanging on to the side of a mountain with a sheer drop of thousands of feet all around you can be fun. No doubt my inability to understand might be judged by mountaineers to be some kind of brain malfunction, but I am more than happy to admire the beauty from afar without feeling that I need to go to the top. If someone can put it into words, it would help me to perhaps appreciate the sport more, without wishing to join in ! Good luck with your future climbs John - as I say, this is a brilliant and very helpful film for all climbers out there - and thanks so much for sharing your experiences with all of us (non-climbers like me included !).
Hi, first thanks for the good thoughts. I'm really glad you enjoyed the video and it gave you a vicarious trip up the Matterhorn! :) On the "why" front, wow.... that's something that's bothered people since mountain climbing started. I believe it was George Mallory who said "because it's there" for why he tried Everest. I certainly think you're very normal not to want to get off the ground and do scary things: millions of years of evolution have taught us not to be stupid, and climbing a high rocky ridge is stupid for sure! There's a theory, called sensation theory (I touch on it here: ruclips.net/video/DUokFiBznt8/видео.html) that claims we live in too safe of a world now, so some of us get a bit nutty and want to experience that primal fear we used to get "for free" just from living around so many dangers. I can certainly buy that as part of the reason to climb mountains, or jump out of planes, or SCUBA dive to very low depths. For me, at least, there's the additional draw of the "can you do it?" In other words, do I have the physical and mental fortitude to set my mind to a goal 6-8 months out, and train myself to get to a point where I can make it happen. That's a very fulfilling feeling, to achieve a goal that takes a lot of time and effort to work toward. I am also very drawn to going to places and seeing things that not a lot of others have seen before. I very much enjoy the journey once I get to doing something like climbing. The experience is very intense, often kind of icky (type 2 fun for sure!), but there are moments of pure joy, and these moments make up the most memorable parts of my life... like mountains sticking out above the plane of normal life! ;) That all seems worth the effort to me. I'm not sure if this answer helps at all, but that's my best thought on the subject, at least first thing in the morning! Do be sure to subscribe here if you haven't yet: Lane and I are training to go to Everest Base Camp in May, and I'll be climbing Lobuche Peak--a "little" 6,000m peak (the Matterhorn is around 4,500m)--at the time. I'm sure we'll have lots of really cool pictures and video from that trip as well! Thanks again for watching and writing: you're a big reason I made the video!
Wow. That summit. My fear of heights sensation would be off the scale up there. Fun to watch nonetheless! I am hiking to Hornli hut in a few days. I hope to catch a glimpse of some of you climbers while I’m there. I’ll stick to hiking though!
I climbed it in 1999 when I was in my mid 30s. I have climbed a lot of well know peaks and numerous one in the Alps. The Matterhorn was by far the scariest and most challenging. My one key bit of advice would be do not attempt without a guide.
I absolutely agree: just route finding alone is really tough on the mountain. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out where to go, exactly, and if you get "off piste," it can get sketchy really soon. Great advice :)
Tom Lohr My brother and I climbed the Northface in 1973 when I was 17 and he was 15. It was the year that Warren Blesser and Niels Anderson were swept off the nothface by an avalanche. We were below and to the left of them, protected by a rock face. We down climbed the Hornli ridge. Never found route finding difficult except after we were down in the valley 24 hours later and trying to find our way to Zermatt. Next project was Eiger Nordwand. That was a long time ago, and there was no social media so we did things quietly and without fanfare.
Nice video. Personal opinion is hornli route is it's not a very enjoyable climb. The rock quality is pretty poor. Felt like I was climbing a pile of rubble at times..Kind of a zero star classic vs a 5 star one
Awesome video!!! As a long time Atlanta resident, now even lower in altitude in Tampa, I felt your acclimatization pain! I was actually born in Switzerland, so I was feeling an almost moral obligation to climb this peak until I saw the Summit Ridge video footage! That was appallingly steep in all directions!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 No sadly not. I'm here with my family and they are not really mountaineers... It's just a family trip. We just do normal hikes this time. The past 3 times I was in Zermatt I climbed a few mountains (Castor, Pollux, Breithorn and the Dom). I would really like to climb the Matterhorn, but for now I have a different plan. After I finish school next year I want to climb the Pik Lenin and I'm already training really hard, because it's really not easy to climb a 7000 m Mountain. So hopefully next year around this time I will be on the summit :D
Silence that’s awesome! I just did 6000 Peak in Nepal- Lobuche Peak (you can see the video of it on this channel). It was significant due to the altitude but with training and time it wasn’t that bad. :). Good luck!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 Actually I'm not too sure if I will ever climb the Matterhorn. We walked to the Hermetji Hut 3 days ago and had a chat with one of the waiters. He told us that they want to close the Matterhorn for climbers in the next years, because the Mountain is not safe enough anymore, since the permafrost goes away and makes the Rocks very loose. Already 4 climbers died in the 10 days we were in Zermatt R.I.P.
At 75 there is no way l will get to climb the Matterhorn, but many thanks to this well made video, l get a look into what a very smart approach to it would be.......many thanks for taking the time to make this old guy happy. !!!
Sanjin Bajgoric thanks! I’m so glad it’s useful! And don’t forget about Lobuche Peak in the Himalaya (6119m). I just completed the climb and will do a video as soon as I get back to the states. :)
I absolutely loved this video. Not a climber , but Still watching climbing videos gives much needed thrill. You have good memory to have retain all those details about the climb. Ofcorse the scariest part was the ridge walk to the summit. There are taller but cheaper mountains available too
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I totally agree especially the emotional value attached to it. Back in 2000's there was documentary released in iMax in which a man when to climb eiger to settle the score with it, perhaps his father passed award climbing it when he was a kid. And I did not mean as an alternative to that when I suggested cheaper mountains, but for future. Like Andes or Himalayas.
Thanks for this great video. I do a lot of 14ers in Colorado and 18'000 Mount Damavand in Iran. Before this video I used to think of Matterhorn as this scary, very technical climb but this changed my mind. I realized several mountain that I have already done were harder than this. I really want to do this mountain now👍👌
aria alizadeh do it! It’s a long mountain to climb because it’s up the ridge but technically it’s not too bad. And the hardest parts all have fixed ropes anyway so you can motor right through them. :). Depending on routes I’d expect some of those 14k Colorado mountains were more technical.
Thanks for a great video packed with useful info. I successfully made the climb in July of 71 when I was 24. I spent a week in Zermatt to get in condition and found the climb to be one of the most physically demanding experiences I had ever done. My total cost for the week was under $500 including the hotel, equipment rental and the services of a mountain guide for a day and a half. I attempted to get up to the Hornli Hutt last year but the mountain was still closed in late May. Too much snow. Maybe will try again next summer and wait until August.
Woo--1971?! You got me beat by a couple of years! Congrats on the climb: as I'm sure everyone who's done it knows it is a hard thing to do for sure. And good luck getting to the Hornli Hutt next time. Even getting there and seeing the mountain up close is absolutely amazing!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 - this was my first trip back to Zermatt since 1971. It certainly has changed. The climbers have been replaced by the skiers. May is a down month there as most businesses are closed for several weeks. I hear it picks up again around mid June. I wanted to stay at Hotel Bahnhoff where I had stayed before. It still is there but it was closed. The family that ran it when I was there were the Biners and they catered to climbers. I met some really interesting folks there, including a couple of Japanese guys that climbed the North face in the middle of the winter. They had come back in the summer to do it again in better weather.
Excellent video! I've summitted Mt. Rainer, and Kilimanjaro, and I made it to 21,900' on Aconcagua before I had to turn around due to a frozen eyeball (that I made a full recovery from). I'm going to try the Matterhorn in 2022. This video has helped me a lot to know what to prepare for. Thanks!
Yikes. A frozen eyeball sounds awful!! I got to the top of Lobuche in Nepal 20075’ or so). You can watch that video on my channel too if you want. Good luck with the Matterhorn. It’s a slog but what a mountain!!
I loved that thank you. My father climbed the Matterhorn and your video helped me understand what he experienced. You will love Nepal, hiking the Annapurna circuit might have been the best couple weeks of my life.
Of all the videos that I have seen of Matterhorn, this one was by far the best, especially in terms of giving perspective into the "behind the scenes" and more importantly, some aspects of the downclimb which most people (for obvious reasons) don't put in their videos. Thank you!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 it’s that enormous grassy slope before reaching that actual face that terrifies me first. If I wasn’t ill I’d be saving to trek the Himalayas. Especially around K2. Staggering scenery.
Great watch. I was on the Matterhorn at 16 back in 1994, the weather turned us back, went back the next year and cracked it. I enjoyed your video as I have forgotten a lot of it. Thanks.
Just found this video and wow! So impressive and grateful for the work you put into it. I’ve watched it 3 times now and have a planned climb that’s guided with my wife on our honeymoon. Been training for a while and am quite nervous but excited!
Really inspiring video. I was in Zermatt a couple of years back and couldn't take my eyes off the Matterhorn , it looked so inviting yet so dangerous. Congratulations on your tremendous achievement and success in making a very informative video . I'm still trying to assess what it would take to get to Hornlihutte . I'm 72 yrs old and wanted to get a little closer to this beautifully tormenting icon and just touch it.
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. It’s true the Matterhorn is something inspiring and terrifying. It’s so jagged it’s almost mean looking! If you want to get to the hornlihutte you should just make a two day trip of it. Book a night at the hut and enjoy the spectacular sunset and sunrise! It’s just a couple of hours each way to get up and back from the gondola.
Thank you John for your reply, your suggestions are very encouraging and seem quite possible for older fellow like myself. Can't seem to get old for some reason and always feel like I can conquer the world but after seeing you walk that summit ridge I think a little reality set in. So, Hornlihutte will be my goal. How on earth did you manage to pass by that person on the top 😀 . Many thanks. Paul
@@PaulSmith-ff1wy hahahaha! It is quite the intense experience being up there! In a weird way it was easier doing it for real than watching even my video. I guess you just get really focused and try not to think about any mistakes. Good luck. You’ll make the hut for sure. It’s a spectacular hike!
Very nice pictures. I have climbed the matterhorn 30 years ago And now I have downloaded your wonderful video (for an Abo). Thanks a lot. And god bless you.👍🌈
You touched on some thing I always thought was funny and that’s what the mountains look like and that this mountain is more iconic than Everest, and people don’t realize if I showed them a picture of Everest they actually wouldn’t even be able to tell me which mountain it is, especially with Lhoste right next to it (I know I spelled that wrong but oh well) it’s in a mountain rang of very tall mountains, the only reason it’s known is because it’s the tallest, but this mountain you would pick out in any picture or anything and that’s what attracts me to it, not it’s height, there are 6000m peaks that are more technical than Everest so height isn’t everything
How to climb the Matterhorn: Hire someone who actually knows what they're doing, then try not to go catatonic when confronted with serious exposure. Back down, once you stop waking up screaming, regain control of you bowels, and can take solid food without projectile vomiting....go back home and tell everyone how you "climbed" the Matterhorn.
Terrific video, thank you for providing all these details. I'm just back from Zermatt last week (hiked up to the Hörnli hut) and plan to do a guided climb of the Horn in 2020, and this was REALLY very useful - thanks!
You speak of the Swisspass... it is actually the Halbtax you will need and it saves you 20% for the gondulas etc. in Zermatt and 50% for the trainticket to get to Zermatt.
very nice video. We just got back from Zermatt and hiked to the Matterhorn hut but didn't plan to summit just getting as high as we could on a day hike. But you're right about the last ride down. We had to do a bit of trail running to get literally the last gondola and on Sept 11 that was 4:45pm. I summited Denali when I was in college and a lot of Colorado & California peaks and Mt. Kenya 4 times and Kili 3 years ago (we live in Kenya) but at 65 not sure I could do the full Matterhorn as much as your "first time" video inspires me to do so.
Well done and thanks for the video! It's one of the most comprehensive and informative videos i've seen in a long time, superb stuff. Even if you did beat the Scottish guys to the summit ;-)
I was originally very enamored by the Matterhorn back in ther 1950's when I saw the movie, "Third man on the mountain". Enchanted is more like it. In the early 1970's I visited Zermatt and hiked way up toward the Hornlihutte but turned around when I started seeing many canine tracks in the snow as I was alone up there ... Fast forward to the 1990's when I saw a random ad in a sports publication for a "Climbing the Matterhorn" VHS video, which I just watched again last week. Anyway, that video does everything I expected which was a close-up of the mountain itself - what the rock and the route looks like, etc. I am no mountaineer or technical climber but you don't have to be to be fascinated by Whymper's story ... and the mountain itself. Thanks for your video!
Hi Tom, how is the climb up to Hörnlihütte? Would you say this can be done just to get a glimpse of the whole climb or is it already pretty serious and dangerous?
@@marvinmuhlethaler8297 Hello Marvin. I'm sorry but the day that I hiked up there was a cloudy day and so I did not have a clear view of the mountain. Unfortunately I have not been back since I was last there in 1972. Good luck !
Great video! I was there in 1973. Wish I would have had all this info then.
5 лет назад+2
Great video and lot of good information! I also did the same route in july 2018. Wish I had seen this first. Was not prepared for the exposure on the Egg climb on Riffelhorn :)
Gunnar Már Gunnarsson we must have been there around the same time! I believe I summited on the 23rd. And yes: the Riffelhorn was a bit of a shock to start on: I came up from sea level and did that the next day. Weee!! :)
5 лет назад+1
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I summited on the 17th so we were there almost at the same time :)
I should have mentioned that the video is showing 4 Swiss radio contest winners to "Climb The Matterhorn" and it shows them winning the contest, doing their training, etc. In the video they also meet a 90-something year old former guide who has made the climb a crazy number of times ... can't recall the number maybe over a hundred? A good video.
"If you start to fall call out the direction your falling so that I can jump the other way." NO! YOUR OTHER LEFT! Well described, (I've done it myself).
Thanks for putting together this great video. I'm planning to climb in August this year (pandemic permitting) and am roughly the same age and have the same experience as you. All those small but helpful tips (3l of water, small axe, etc) are really helpful. I'm also going to do it guided. It'll be my first time using a guide so nice not to have to do the route finding! Two questions for you. Do you rappel at all on the way down or is it 100% down climbing? What grade would say the most technical pitch is? cheers and thanks again for a terrific video.
Cool video, thanks for such a detailed share. I visited Zermatt last year and did a lot of hiking but never would've thought a Matterhorn summit was even possible - its so pointy! Cool to see everything it takes.
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I truly don't think I have the stomach for this type of climbing, watching the videos is exhilarating enough for me! Seeing you shuffle past people going the other way on the summit's knife ridge gave me serious anxiety LOL not sure I'd manage up there, though it would be a spectacular view.
Google recently photographed the entire Zermatt region in photogrammetry produced 3D imagery/textures. That includes Zermatt and most all the mountains around it including the Matterhorn. Since I own an Oculus Rift virtual reality headset (HMD) and the newer Google Earth VR (virtual reality version), I am able to explore this entire area/region with a reasonable amount of reality myself and in fully immersive 3D. There are also many hundreds of 360 degree 2D photos to supplement all of this in higher clarity. And they take over the VR-HMD when invoked. I visited the Gornergrat (including the entire cog wheel train ride up at track level), Sunnegga, the Klein (little) Matterhorn, Rothorn/Unterrothorn, and the Hornlihutte Hotel in both VR and 360. The cable car simulations are all stunning in VR. And of course I went to the top of the Matterhorn itself too in both VR and 360 photos. I share your views about the ridge at the top. Most of the 360 degree images are in 10 -20 foot paths, so one can "walk" around about everything quite well both inside of dwellings and outside of course. Marvelous region and new technology. Bob - New Mexico, U.S.A.
mesillahills wow how crazy! I don’t have a vr headset yet but I’ll definitely go take a look on my computer. Almost means you don’t even have to go anymore! 😂
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 You can also use Google Earth and especially the new Google Earth Studio. Google Earth Studio was created to replicate drones in 3D imagery. It is first class. There are 5 default path wizards you can use too. FYI - I just found the Solvay Hut in VR not 5 minutes ago. Now there is a real wow ! I was in shock as to where it is located.
I'm from Switzerland and I find this video specially interesting because someone from USA did it. However the Mountain is still very dangerous, and I would hire a local mountaineer with experience.
Congratulations and thank you for sharing your experience and all the amazing info! I'm planning to climb It in the coming weeks if the conditions will allow It!
Completely gave me the willies. I found you from the Tesla channel and had no idea you were such a mensch. Thanks for the great video...as I'm not going to do it.
Just contributed to your goal of reaching 1000! Mr. Gibbs (John if I may) I enjoy all of your videos… funny how through technology you can develop friends you have never met from all over the world.
Excellent vid. Thank you. Skied at Zermatt once upon a time. What an amazing part of the world. I certainly remember it being uber expensive! Would love to climb the Matterhorn. Definitely on the bucket list.
John, I first heard of the Matterhorn in 1959 when I was 8 yrs old. My brothers and I saw it in the Disney movie "Third Man on the Mountain". Since then I've been obsessed with it. I've seen just about every video about it (by the way there are some vintage videos here on RUclips), and have read a couple of Whymper's books. Unfortunately, I've never gotten anywhere near it. I'm 70 now, and I'm pretty sure I'll never make it to the top... Perhaps I can still do the Hornli Hut Base Camp, but the summit? No. So you have my complete support, John. I know the feeling. .
Hi, it’s a magical mountain for sure. Definitely you can make the Hornli hut. As soon as the pandemic is over try to get there. Just the views from zermatt are priceless!
Thank you for the video and the commentary. I won't be going but it's fun to see you enjoy yourself on this classic climb. For armchair climbing of the North Face of the Eiger, read "The White Spider". You may want to adjust your aspirations to climb that route.
I'm scared of heights. I live in Idaho near the Sawtooths and Grand Teton, so I can train I guess. This mountain looks like the worlds tallest natural ladder. Thanks for this video and your shopping list. Great idea to do this topic. This may make my bucket list.
This is such a beautiful and useful video! Previously I have only found ones that made it look like a piece of cake, and even if it was with commentary, it commented on difficulties that came up at their level of climbing, which was difficult for me to ascertain. Now, after your much more specific descriptions placing this climb into context for me, it is pretty clear to me I'm nowhere near the shape I need to be to attempt this climb - and that it is really about the shape first, fear of heights second (I, to my knowledge, don't have a fear of heights, but I haven't been on such exposed terrain yet, so I also need to test that before attempting the Matterhorn). Regardless, I am in love with this mountain and want to climb it one day, when I will be suited for it! So please allow me a question: how much time did it take for you to ascend vs to descend? Not so that I can decide I can do it in the same amount of time, but to see the ascent-to-descent ratio I should be expecting - perhaps!
I’m so disappointed to see the crowds, but I guess it’s to be expected now. The Hornli hut apparently holds 180 people! My brother and I climbed it in 1973 when we were 15 and 17. The hut was tiny, the caretaker woke you up at the hour you asked for, there were no fixed ropes and only about 15 other people on the mountain that day (July). We left around 2am and we were back in Zermatt by midnight (we’d already spent a month in Charmonix). I’m so pleased for you that you reached the summit and clearly had a wonderful time: I can hear it in your voice. From Zermatt we climbed the north face of the Eiger, and I see that it now costs about $7000 to hire a guide for that two day trip!!!! Terrible what’s happened to the wilderness. With my best regards. Best of Luck
This is a fantastic video John and firstly, huge congratulations on climbing such an iconic mountain and for producing such an amazing documentary of your trip as well as terrific photos.
We visited Zermatt in 2015 when they were celebrating the 150th anniversary of the first climbing of the mountain by Edward Whymper in 1865, and were thankfully blessed with glorious weather for the entire week in which we were there. The Matterhorn was the only mountain in the world that I had absolutely wanted to see with my own eyes and it did not disappoint - in fact, we were completely blown away by it ! I don't think that any mountain dominates its surroundings in the same way that the Matterhorn does to Zermatt and we took so many photographs of it, as well as recording on our I Pod the lighting up of the route each night with the solar lamps that Swiss guides had placed on the mountain.
However, where I differ from all mountaineers is that, whilst I can appreciate the incredible beauty and grandeur of the mountain, I would be absolutely terrified of trying to climb it (or any other mountain for that matter !). I have always been at a complete loss to understand how such an activity can be so pleasurable ? Even just seeing the summit ridge on film made me feel ill, and I simply cannot comprehend that it can be wide enough to stand on, let alone walk along or pass people on. I don't think that I have a daring bone in my body and I would love someone to explain to me how hanging on to the side of a mountain with a sheer drop of thousands of feet all around you can be fun.
No doubt my inability to understand might be judged by mountaineers to be some kind of brain malfunction, but I am more than happy to admire the beauty from afar without feeling that I need to go to the top. If someone can put it into words, it would help me to perhaps appreciate the sport more, without wishing to join in !
Good luck with your future climbs John - as I say, this is a brilliant and very helpful film for all climbers out there - and thanks so much for sharing your experiences with all of us (non-climbers like me included !).
Hi, first thanks for the good thoughts. I'm really glad you enjoyed the video and it gave you a vicarious trip up the Matterhorn! :)
On the "why" front, wow.... that's something that's bothered people since mountain climbing started. I believe it was George Mallory who said "because it's there" for why he tried Everest. I certainly think you're very normal not to want to get off the ground and do scary things: millions of years of evolution have taught us not to be stupid, and climbing a high rocky ridge is stupid for sure! There's a theory, called sensation theory (I touch on it here: ruclips.net/video/DUokFiBznt8/видео.html) that claims we live in too safe of a world now, so some of us get a bit nutty and want to experience that primal fear we used to get "for free" just from living around so many dangers. I can certainly buy that as part of the reason to climb mountains, or jump out of planes, or SCUBA dive to very low depths.
For me, at least, there's the additional draw of the "can you do it?" In other words, do I have the physical and mental fortitude to set my mind to a goal 6-8 months out, and train myself to get to a point where I can make it happen. That's a very fulfilling feeling, to achieve a goal that takes a lot of time and effort to work toward. I am also very drawn to going to places and seeing things that not a lot of others have seen before. I very much enjoy the journey once I get to doing something like climbing. The experience is very intense, often kind of icky (type 2 fun for sure!), but there are moments of pure joy, and these moments make up the most memorable parts of my life... like mountains sticking out above the plane of normal life! ;) That all seems worth the effort to me.
I'm not sure if this answer helps at all, but that's my best thought on the subject, at least first thing in the morning!
Do be sure to subscribe here if you haven't yet: Lane and I are training to go to Everest Base Camp in May, and I'll be climbing Lobuche Peak--a "little" 6,000m peak (the Matterhorn is around 4,500m)--at the time. I'm sure we'll have lots of really cool pictures and video from that trip as well!
Thanks again for watching and writing: you're a big reason I made the video!
Wow. That summit. My fear of heights sensation would be off the scale up there.
Fun to watch nonetheless! I am hiking to Hornli hut in a few days. I hope to catch a glimpse of some of you climbers while I’m there. I’ll stick to hiking though!
I climbed it in 1999 when I was in my mid 30s. I have climbed a lot of well know peaks and numerous one in the Alps. The Matterhorn was by far the scariest and most challenging. My one key bit of advice would be do not attempt without a guide.
I absolutely agree: just route finding alone is really tough on the mountain. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out where to go, exactly, and if you get "off piste," it can get sketchy really soon. Great advice :)
Tom Lohr
My brother and I climbed the Northface in 1973 when I was 17 and he was 15. It was the year that Warren Blesser and Niels Anderson were swept off the nothface by an avalanche. We were below and to the left of them, protected by a rock face. We down climbed the Hornli ridge. Never found route finding difficult except after we were down in the valley 24 hours later and trying to find our way to Zermatt. Next project was Eiger Nordwand. That was a long time ago, and there was no social media so we did things quietly and without fanfare.
Nice video. Personal opinion is hornli route is it's not a very enjoyable climb. The rock quality is pretty poor. Felt like I was climbing a pile of rubble at times..Kind of a zero star classic vs a 5 star one
Awesome video!!! As a long time Atlanta resident, now even lower in altitude in Tampa, I felt your acclimatization pain! I was actually born in Switzerland, so I was feeling an almost moral obligation to climb this peak until I saw the Summit Ridge video footage! That was appallingly steep in all directions!
the most realistic and honest post re matterhorn! just what I experienced too! great footage! thank you!
@@doncoddington3246 thank
You!
Thank You for this film. All very useful info for planning our next step from walking and climbing in Scotland. Cheers.
Extremely impressive, congratulations on your climb. Thank you for the video.
Rocking Rolling thanks so much! I’m glad it’s a fun and useful video!
14:16 I'm currently staying in that hotel (Matterhorn Lodge) watching your video 😂👌
Silence dude nice!! I’d guess you’ll be up in an hour or so to climb it. Good luck and let me know when you get back. Enjoy the experience!!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 No sadly not. I'm here with my family and they are not really mountaineers... It's just a family trip. We just do normal hikes this time. The past 3 times I was in Zermatt I climbed a few mountains (Castor, Pollux, Breithorn and the Dom). I would really like to climb the Matterhorn, but for now I have a different plan. After I finish school next year I want to climb the Pik Lenin and I'm already training really hard, because it's really not easy to climb a 7000 m Mountain. So hopefully next year around this time I will be on the summit :D
Silence that’s awesome! I just did 6000 Peak in Nepal- Lobuche Peak (you can see the video of it on this channel). It was significant due to the altitude but with training and time it wasn’t that bad. :). Good luck!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 Wow I saw the video. It's a great mountain. Its so impressive how every other mountain around there seems to be higher 😮
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 Actually I'm not too sure if I will ever climb the Matterhorn. We walked to the Hermetji Hut 3 days ago and had a chat with one of the waiters. He told us that they want to close the Matterhorn for climbers in the next years, because the Mountain is not safe enough anymore, since the permafrost goes away and makes the Rocks very loose. Already 4 climbers died in the 10 days we were in Zermatt R.I.P.
At 75 there is no way l will get to climb the Matterhorn, but many thanks to this well made video, l get a look into what a very smart approach to it would be.......many thanks for taking the time to make this old guy happy.
!!!
Really useful video from start to finish. Plugged a gap on youtube regarding matterhorn climbing for sure. Thanks buddy
Sanjin Bajgoric thanks! I’m so glad it’s useful! And don’t forget about Lobuche Peak in the Himalaya (6119m). I just completed the climb and will do a video as soon as I get back to the states. :)
I absolutely loved this video. Not a climber , but Still watching climbing videos gives much needed thrill. You have good memory to have retain all those details about the climb. Ofcorse the scariest part was the ridge walk to the summit.
There are taller but cheaper mountains available too
@@KarakorumDiary thank you so much! Yes there are cheaper mountains to climb but this one is so iconic I really wanted to be sure I did it.
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I totally agree especially the emotional value attached to it. Back in 2000's there was documentary released in iMax in which a man when to climb eiger to settle the score with it, perhaps his father passed award climbing it when he was a kid.
And I did not mean as an alternative to that when I suggested cheaper mountains, but for future. Like Andes or Himalayas.
Thanks for this great video. I do a lot of 14ers in Colorado and 18'000 Mount Damavand in Iran. Before this video I used to think of Matterhorn as this scary, very technical climb but this changed my mind. I realized several mountain that I have already done were harder than this. I really want to do this mountain now👍👌
aria alizadeh do it! It’s a long mountain to climb because it’s up the ridge but technically it’s not too bad. And the hardest parts all have fixed ropes anyway so you can motor right through them. :). Depending on routes I’d expect some of those 14k Colorado mountains were more technical.
Thanks for a great video packed with useful info. I successfully made the climb in July of 71 when I was 24. I spent a week in Zermatt to get in condition and found the climb to be one of the most physically demanding experiences I had ever done. My total cost for the week was under $500 including the hotel, equipment rental and the services of a mountain guide for a day and a half. I attempted to get up to the Hornli Hutt last year but the mountain was still closed in late May. Too much snow. Maybe will try again next summer and wait until August.
Woo--1971?! You got me beat by a couple of years! Congrats on the climb: as I'm sure everyone who's done it knows it is a hard thing to do for sure. And good luck getting to the Hornli Hutt next time. Even getting there and seeing the mountain up close is absolutely amazing!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 - this was my first trip back to Zermatt since 1971. It certainly has changed. The climbers have been replaced by the skiers. May is a down month there as most businesses are closed for several weeks. I hear it picks up again around mid June. I wanted to stay at Hotel Bahnhoff where I had stayed before. It still is there but it was closed. The family that ran it when I was there were the Biners and they catered to climbers. I met some really interesting folks there, including a couple of Japanese guys that climbed the North face in the middle of the winter. They had come back in the summer to do it again in better weather.
Excellent video! I've summitted Mt. Rainer, and Kilimanjaro, and I made it to 21,900' on Aconcagua before I had to turn around due to a frozen eyeball (that I made a full recovery from). I'm going to try the Matterhorn in 2022.
This video has helped me a lot to know what to prepare for. Thanks!
Yikes. A frozen eyeball sounds awful!! I got to the top of Lobuche in Nepal 20075’ or so). You can watch that video on my channel too if you want. Good luck with the Matterhorn. It’s a slog but what a mountain!!
Did you attempt it? @gjwaldie
I loved that thank you. My father climbed the Matterhorn and your video helped me understand what he experienced. You will love Nepal, hiking the Annapurna circuit might have been the best couple weeks of my life.
We ended up doing Everest which was astounding. Can’t wait to go back and do Annapurna!
Of all the videos that I have seen of Matterhorn, this one was by far the best, especially in terms of giving perspective into the "behind the scenes" and more importantly, some aspects of the downclimb which most people (for obvious reasons) don't put in their videos. Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching and I’m glad you found it helpful!
Possibly the most informative vid for this peak that I've seen so far. Well done staying safe and sharing crucial points of the climb. Bravo!
Dimitrios Greek thanks! I’m so glad you found it useful!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 are you th8nking about the North Face of the Eiger?
@@jamisbillson4872 oh man I think I might be too old for that!! It would be a hell of a climb though!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 it’s that enormous grassy slope before reaching that actual face that terrifies me first. If I wasn’t ill I’d be saving to trek the Himalayas. Especially around K2. Staggering scenery.
@@jamisbillson4872 have you see our Everest base camp video? I highly recommend that trek too if you can manage it!
This video made me sweat in front of my computer. Congratulations on this incredible achievement! I could never do what you've done!
Yes you could.
Terrifying stuff...
And the ridge at the top lol....
Btw: search up "matterhorn speed world record solo" etc looool
Great watch. I was on the Matterhorn at 16 back in 1994, the weather turned us back, went back the next year and cracked it. I enjoyed your video as I have forgotten a lot of it. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. It’s a gorgeous climb!
Just found this video and wow! So impressive and grateful for the work you put into it. I’ve watched it 3 times now and have a planned climb that’s guided with my wife on our honeymoon. Been training for a while and am quite nervous but excited!
Good for you both! It’s an amazing experience. Be prepared but mostly enjoy it together! ❤️
Please make sure that you consumate the nuptials before you climb it, (just in case)!
Great HOW TO ... many many thanks for that one and ... RESPECT & CONGRATS !!!
Ingo Lengersdorf thanks and happy new year to you!
So amazing. if I was young and fit I would go. Those days are over. Do it when you can guys--life zooms by. Just love your video.
That’s exactly why my bucket list is organized by physical capabilities. Time really does fly by!
Really inspiring video. I was in Zermatt a couple of years back and couldn't take my eyes off the Matterhorn , it looked so inviting yet so dangerous. Congratulations on your tremendous achievement and success in making a very informative video . I'm still trying to assess what it would take to get to Hornlihutte . I'm 72 yrs old and wanted to get a little closer to this beautifully tormenting icon and just touch it.
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. It’s true the Matterhorn is something inspiring and terrifying. It’s so jagged it’s almost mean looking! If you want to get to the hornlihutte you should just make a two day trip of it. Book a night at the hut and enjoy the spectacular sunset and sunrise! It’s just a couple of hours each way to get up and back from the gondola.
Thank you John for your reply, your suggestions are very encouraging and seem quite possible for older fellow like myself. Can't seem to get old for some reason and always feel like I can conquer the world but after seeing you walk that summit ridge I think a little reality set in. So, Hornlihutte will be my goal. How on earth did you manage to pass by that person on the top 😀 . Many thanks. Paul
@@PaulSmith-ff1wy hahahaha! It is quite the intense experience being up there! In a weird way it was easier doing it for real than watching even my video. I guess you just get really focused and try not to think about any mistakes. Good luck. You’ll make the hut for sure. It’s a spectacular hike!
very usefull thank u so much im planning to climb my first time bcs i just in love matterhorn
alimaa alimaa good luck! And let me know how it goes. It is an amazingly beautiful maintain for sure!
Will you go there in 2021. ?
Fantastic coverage, thank you! Zermatt is my most favorite place on the planet and i've always been intrigued with climbing the iconic rock! Cheers!
This was great. I'm happy for it to be my experiential substitute - I had sweaty palms watching some of shots.
The summit ridge video had me tense up! What a place that must have been.
Absolutely glorious. And terrifying! :)
Very nice pictures.
I have climbed the matterhorn 30 years ago And now I have downloaded your wonderful video (for an Abo). Thanks a lot. And god bless you.👍🌈
You touched on some thing I always thought was funny and that’s what the mountains look like and that this mountain is more iconic than Everest, and people don’t realize if I showed them a picture of Everest they actually wouldn’t even be able to tell me which mountain it is, especially with Lhoste right next to it (I know I spelled that wrong but oh well) it’s in a mountain rang of very tall mountains, the only reason it’s known is because it’s the tallest, but this mountain you would pick out in any picture or anything and that’s what attracts me to it, not it’s height, there are 6000m peaks that are more technical than Everest so height isn’t everything
How to climb the Matterhorn: Hire someone who actually knows what they're doing, then try not to go catatonic when confronted with serious exposure. Back down, once you stop waking up screaming, regain control of you bowels, and can take solid food without projectile vomiting....go back home and tell everyone how you "climbed" the Matterhorn.
This is awesome! Not only the images, but also the information and editing.
Thanks!
Yea, I'm one of the other donkeys which were left out of frame (2:05) so a massive thank you!
Terrific video, thank you for providing all these details. I'm just back from Zermatt last week (hiked up to the Hörnli hut) and plan to do a guided climb of the Horn in 2020, and this was REALLY very useful - thanks!
John Horgan so glad it was useful. Have a fantastic climb when you get to do it. It’s an awesome mountain!
Thanks John. Your video is excelent and inspiring. I am 66yrs and you have me stoked for next year!
You speak of the Swisspass... it is actually the Halbtax you will need and it saves you 20% for the gondulas etc. in Zermatt and 50% for the trainticket to get to Zermatt.
Great video. I was thinking about summitting without a guide but now think otherwise. Thanks for posting this.
very nice video. We just got back from Zermatt and hiked to the Matterhorn hut but didn't plan to summit just getting as high as we could on a day hike. But you're right about the last ride down. We had to do a bit of trail running to get literally the last gondola and on Sept 11 that was 4:45pm. I summited Denali when I was in college and a lot of Colorado & California peaks and Mt. Kenya 4 times and Kili 3 years ago (we live in Kenya) but at 65 not sure I could do the full Matterhorn as much as your "first time" video inspires me to do so.
Well done and thanks for the video! It's one of the most comprehensive and informative videos i've seen in a long time, superb stuff. Even if you did beat the Scottish guys to the summit ;-)
Thank you for this movie! It's very helpful, while I"m preparing for climb this Horn of the Mother this summer. Greetings from Poland
The ridge to the summit...mind blowing
I was terrified before I went but the view was so amazing that it was all good while I was up there. :)
John, fantastic video! Appreciate you taking the time to describe the logistics of ascent, looking forward to more of your videos
Victor Genty thanks! Be sure to check out my Lobuche peak (6000m peak in Nepal) and Everest base camp videos. They’re fun too. :)
Great information. Hopefully I can apply some of it to my attempt at Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa) this summer.
Simon Dekker Linnros glad it helped!
Looks awesome but terrifying! Congrats on making it to the summit and back John!
Thanks! It’s honestly more scary looking back on it than it was at the time! 👍
This is the best video of climbing the Matterhorn. Very interesting and informative.
I was originally very enamored by the Matterhorn back in ther 1950's when I saw the movie, "Third man on the mountain". Enchanted is more like it. In the early 1970's I visited Zermatt and hiked way up toward the Hornlihutte but turned around when I started seeing many canine tracks in the snow as I was alone up there ... Fast forward to the 1990's when I saw a random ad in a sports publication for a "Climbing the Matterhorn" VHS video, which I just watched again last week. Anyway, that video does everything I expected which was a close-up of the mountain itself - what the rock and the route looks like, etc. I am no mountaineer or technical climber but you don't have to be to be fascinated by Whymper's story ... and the mountain itself. Thanks for your video!
Hi Tom, how is the climb up to Hörnlihütte? Would you say this can be done just to get a glimpse of the whole climb or is it already pretty serious and dangerous?
@@marvinmuhlethaler8297 Hello Marvin. I'm sorry but the day that I hiked up there was a cloudy day and so I did not have a clear view of the mountain. Unfortunately I have not been back since I was last there in 1972. Good luck !
thx so much for taking the time and effort to produce this. So helpful and appreciate your spirit of generosity.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
I love your methodological approach to the whole matter! Keep it up, alpinist brother!
Great video! I was there in 1973. Wish I would have had all this info then.
Great video and lot of good information! I also did the same route in july 2018. Wish I had seen this first. Was not prepared for the exposure on the Egg climb on Riffelhorn :)
Gunnar Már Gunnarsson we must have been there around the same time! I believe I summited on the 23rd. And yes: the Riffelhorn was a bit of a shock to start on: I came up from sea level and did that the next day. Weee!! :)
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I summited on the 17th so we were there almost at the same time :)
Great video! Thanks. Looking forward to checking out more of your videos!
I should have mentioned that the video is showing 4 Swiss radio contest winners to "Climb The Matterhorn" and it shows them winning the contest, doing their training, etc. In the video they also meet a 90-something year old former guide who has made the climb a crazy number of times ... can't recall the number maybe over a hundred? A good video.
That was superb. Hit the button. Exactly the kind of info needed.
Thank you!
"If you start to fall call out the direction your falling so that I can jump the other way."
NO! YOUR OTHER LEFT!
Well described, (I've done it myself).
Hahahah! I knew we were in serious land when he told me that. I repeated “that’s right, that’s left” in my head to be sure I wouldn’t get it wrong. 🤣
I live in London England, welcome to Europe my friend!
Hahah! Welcome indeed! :)
Brilliant video ... Thanks for doing this.. VERY helpful 🏔💪🏔
Well orchestrated mate, on the level and loaded with useful information.
No Body thanks!
You’re welcome good sir. 🇦🇺
Well John,Best Amateur climbing video I’ve seen..
Your Pops would be Proud.
Nice one.
Jakedegaye awww. Thank you! Folks appreciating the video really make it worth the effort!
This is a great video! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Awesome video and great information! Thanks a lot buddy!
I’m not a climber and will never climb Matterhorn but nice video! Found it interesting
Thanks man! Love this! Big help 💪💪
Great video. Thank you
SkiingQuinHat glad you enjoyed it!
Superb video and effort sir!
Thanks! And I’m guessing you’re a fellow vegetarian as well. :)
Thank you especially for useful informations
I like how were being modest when you were introducing yourself .congratulations on your achievement ⚡🙌
What a great video.
Fantastic video. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for putting together this great video. I'm planning to climb in August this year (pandemic permitting) and am roughly the same age and have the same experience as you. All those small but helpful tips (3l of water, small axe, etc) are really helpful. I'm also going to do it guided. It'll be my first time using a guide so nice not to have to do the route finding! Two questions for you. Do you rappel at all on the way down or is it 100% down climbing? What grade would say the most technical pitch is? cheers and thanks again for a terrific video.
Wow! Very impressive ! Thanks for posting this. 😀
Great video! Thanks for all of the useful information!!
Awesome John
Cool video, thanks for such a detailed share. I visited Zermatt last year and did a lot of hiking but never would've thought a Matterhorn summit was even possible - its so pointy! Cool to see everything it takes.
Well next time you go you have to give it a try!! :)
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I truly don't think I have the stomach for this type of climbing, watching the videos is exhilarating enough for me! Seeing you shuffle past people going the other way on the summit's knife ridge gave me serious anxiety LOL not sure I'd manage up there, though it would be a spectacular view.
Google recently photographed the entire Zermatt region in photogrammetry produced 3D imagery/textures. That includes Zermatt and most all the mountains around it including the Matterhorn. Since I own an Oculus Rift virtual reality headset (HMD) and the newer Google Earth VR (virtual reality version), I am able to explore this entire area/region with a reasonable amount of reality myself and in fully immersive 3D. There are also many hundreds of 360 degree 2D photos to supplement all of this in higher clarity. And they take over the VR-HMD when invoked. I visited the Gornergrat (including the entire cog wheel train ride up at track level), Sunnegga, the Klein (little) Matterhorn, Rothorn/Unterrothorn, and the Hornlihutte Hotel in both VR and 360. The cable car simulations are all stunning in VR. And of course I went to the top of the Matterhorn itself too in both VR and 360 photos. I share your views about the ridge at the top. Most of the 360 degree images are in 10 -20 foot paths, so one can "walk" around about everything quite well both inside of dwellings and outside of course. Marvelous region and new technology. Bob - New Mexico, U.S.A.
mesillahills wow how crazy! I don’t have a vr headset yet but I’ll definitely go take a look on my computer. Almost means you don’t even have to go anymore! 😂
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 You can also use Google Earth and especially the new Google Earth Studio. Google Earth Studio was created to replicate drones in 3D imagery. It is first class. There are 5 default path wizards you can use too. FYI - I just found the Solvay Hut in VR not 5 minutes ago. Now there is a real wow ! I was in shock as to where it is located.
mesillahills it’s up there and on a bit of a ledge!
I'm from Switzerland and I find this video specially interesting because someone from USA did it.
However the Mountain is still very dangerous, and I would hire a local mountaineer with experience.
Congratulations and thank you for sharing your experience and all the amazing info! I'm planning to climb It in the coming weeks if the conditions will allow It!
Completely gave me the willies. I found you from the Tesla channel and had no idea you were such a mensch. Thanks for the great video...as I'm not going to do it.
Just contributed to your goal of reaching 1000!
Mr. Gibbs (John if I may) I enjoy all of your videos… funny how through technology you can develop friends you have never met from all over the world.
Thank you!
Excellent vid. Thank you. Skied at Zermatt once upon a time. What an amazing part of the world. I certainly remember it being uber expensive! Would love to climb the Matterhorn. Definitely on the bucket list.
I’d love to ski there too! And yes, it’s one of the most expensive places I’ve visited. Lovely, but your sure pay for it. :)
Well done on the climb and this is a really useful video
Such a beautiful but intimidating mountain. Im 13 and hoping to climb it one day!
Micah Bishop oh man, you and baby Yoda have tons of time. You’ll climb it way faster than me when you go for it. :)
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 Haha 😁
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I believe I'll make it up there one day :)
Hi.
Very nicely done - the narration, organization, photography, and of course - your success in climbing.
God Bless for safe climbs and trips!
Ken Brenner thanks. I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
Very good opinions, Impressions, tips, advices for the preparation phase - thank you ....
Well done! Thanks for sharing!
John, I first heard of the Matterhorn in 1959 when I was 8 yrs old. My brothers and I saw it in the Disney movie "Third Man on the Mountain". Since then I've been obsessed with it. I've seen just about every video about it (by the way there are some vintage videos here on RUclips), and have read a couple of Whymper's books.
Unfortunately, I've never gotten anywhere near it. I'm 70 now, and I'm pretty sure I'll never make it to the top... Perhaps I can still do the Hornli Hut Base Camp, but the summit? No.
So you have my complete support, John. I know the feeling.
.
Hi, it’s a magical mountain for sure. Definitely you can make the Hornli hut. As soon as the pandemic is over try to get there. Just the views from zermatt are priceless!
There is a Japanese man named Yuichiro Miura who climbed Everest at 80 so he proves it possible.
@@iraniansuperhacker4382 let’s both make that happen!! :)
Thank you for the video and the commentary. I won't be going but it's fun to see you enjoy yourself on this classic climb. For armchair climbing of the North Face of the Eiger, read "The White Spider". You may want to adjust your aspirations to climb that route.
I love seeing those movies and reading those books but I have no aspirations to climb the north face of any of these giants :)
Fantastic informative video - Many Thanks!
Thank you very much, i’m thinking about doing it
top how-to video dude
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!
Very good and useful. Thax for sharing your experience
Great video. Thank you for sharing
I'm scared of heights. I live in Idaho near the Sawtooths and Grand Teton, so I can train I guess. This mountain looks like the worlds tallest natural ladder. Thanks for this video and your shopping list. Great idea to do this topic. This may make my bucket list.
I love that area. I’ve climbed grand Teton 3 times now. You should try that and if it goes well set your sites on the Matterhorn!
Btw I’m very scared of heights too. It’s worth facing your fears, I promise.
Amazing video been looking for something like this congrats on the summit
Tyler Madani thanks much. Here’s hoping you get there soon too!
Nice vid. That peak is scary lookin’ 😵💫🥴😂😎🤘🫣
Fantastic video. Really motivating!
Awesome! Well done 👏
One of the best rides at Disneyland! lol
This is such a beautiful and useful video! Previously I have only found ones that made it look like a piece of cake, and even if it was with commentary, it commented on difficulties that came up at their level of climbing, which was difficult for me to ascertain. Now, after your much more specific descriptions placing this climb into context for me, it is pretty clear to me I'm nowhere near the shape I need to be to attempt this climb - and that it is really about the shape first, fear of heights second (I, to my knowledge, don't have a fear of heights, but I haven't been on such exposed terrain yet, so I also need to test that before attempting the Matterhorn).
Regardless, I am in love with this mountain and want to climb it one day, when I will be suited for it! So please allow me a question: how much time did it take for you to ascend vs to descend? Not so that I can decide I can do it in the same amount of time, but to see the ascent-to-descent ratio I should be expecting - perhaps!
Great video, thank you!!
Thank you so much for such a fantastic guide. Zermatt is one of my favourite places & I definitely want to climb the horn one day :)
Jonny G I fell in love with both. Can’t wait to get back... after this awful virus goes away!