Did my front pads....took me ages! I'm no mechanic but worked in a garage for may years and watched many youtube videos.You just need a bot of confidence so i did my front pads,didn't have a plate on them so i had to put the old plates onto the new ones which of course kept slipping.It is a fairly easy thing to do folks.I wouldn't do my rear shoes thou lol a bit complicated for my liking.
What is the lug stud cleaner that you use also? Wanting to expand my tool kit a bit, but havent been able to really find a good lug stud cleaner like you have?
That thing would have flattened me had I been standing there. If the puller comes out a couple nuts always go on. Doesn't help when you tear the chinesium brim off the hat though.
I'm in the rust belt of Canada and have used the threaded holes a number of times. The trick is to do it on rotors that have 2 holes. But the bolts in and tighten them up but don't strip. Then hit with hammer. Bang rotor flies off. It won't work on that Mazda though. I've had 4 lb hammer sessions on Mazdas before. Nothing like beating a rotor for half an hour
6lb 24" handle Wilton bash hammer. Favorite hammer in the shop. Also excellent for Explorer rear wheel bearings. Used to beat on those in 2 man teams for upwards of an hour at the last place I worked. Not even the otc hub grappler wanted to work on those
@@matts.8342 Nah just the parts that use salt, BC and Alberta cars look as good as new mexico because their government isn't stupid and uses beet juice and sand.
You're are so very lucky! I was removing the rear rotors on my GMT-800 '03 Silverado SS. I had backed off the adjusters properly past the rust ridge on the driver's side and lightly banged around with my stubby 32 Oz. sledge. While rocking it back and forth is was giving, but slowly. Crouching in and squatting as I was, I gave it the college go one last time. Oh, she gave. She gave and whanged hard off my only arthritic knee. I was sucking wind, choking back tears and rolling on my back like an upturned tortoise in my driveway for a solid 5 minutes and questioning my role in life, the Earth and the Universe as a whole. Long time watcher, long time fan - but first time poster. Brother, you're so lucky that rotor and tool didn't gut punch you in half! Hang in there bro, and stay safe. Please! You're an insightful and skilled instructor and repair tech that we all desperately pray for if we can't garage or shade-tree fix it ourselves.
I feel your pain, man. People in non-rust prone areas just don't understand the struggle. I've had rotors shatter when using the same puller and a big nasty. Be careful!
I was working with a friend in a driveway on a really stuck rotor. He tried using the caliper bracket on the knuckle and a bolt to drive off the rotor. That turned into a new knuckle. Of course the lower ball joint was stuck in it, so throw in a new lower control arm. And it had press in wheel bearings so no point in changing that over. And it was easier to just grab the strut too since it's only 3 bolts in the fender. Turned a pad and rotor slap into a front suspension rebuild! .. with junkyard parts
Same here a broken ball joint to a new upper control arm, tie rods hub bearings since it's the Ford rotor where it has a bearing on the spindle. Left the suspension alone since the lower control arm holds the spring, I wish it was a strut.
This reminds me of a similar situation I encountered when I first started to work in an automotive shop during the late 60s. Forget now exactly what kind of truck it was but the heavy cast brake drums would seize onto the axle hub. We had special large pullers just for that application and you could pre-load that sucker within an inch of it's life and beat on it all day to no avail. My dad also a mechanic should me the easy way to take it off using an O/A torch and no puller. Heat the drum up evenly and when it goes"tink" from expansion and release you can remove it by hand. That trick saved me lots of grief in the ensuing years. Love this channel, keep up the good work!
I used to work on cars that had their hubs splined to the axle shaft. Had one Volvo P1800 that had max tension applied with a puller, soaked down in Kroil, heated with a OxyAcet torch and pounded on with a sledge -- all at the same time. Three of us had been working on it. Still hot and under tension we were all standing back trying to figure out what to do next when one guy just tapped it with a 10mm combination wrench like he was pointing at it and the whole assembly flew apart explosively. Just that little 'tink' did it. I can also remember a VW bus (also splined) that just wouldn't give it up. I ended up cutting the drum and hub off with a chisel.
As an auto-shop teacher this happenend to my students as well. It was the same type of Mazda 6. We hammered the hell on it, lastly with a very large sledge hammer; didn't budge. I eventually heated the disc with an acetylene burner until it was cherry-red and then tried it with the sledgehammer; it did not budge....
Every brake job i do, i like to put lube on the ears of the pads, rather than dry, keeps from seizing in the future, i also lube the slide pins regardless of whats in there, love your channel, been a mechanic for 23 yrs, keep up the good stuff..👍🔧
I know this is an older video but I wanted to say thanks. Because of this video I went and bought this rotor puller. Saved me money, frustration and I’m sure some skinned up knuckles!! It worked perfectly.
Hey, I am doing that in a driveway in NY! At least this time it isn’t February. You’ve saved my ass more times than I can remember. Always informative and entertaining!
Eric I also have this tool and I had a 2014 Town And Country van on my lift. I beat the snot out of the rotor until I finally broke out this tool when it wouldn't come off. I put the OTC tool on it and put a ton of torque on it with my Milwaukee half inch impact and then hit the forcing screw with a mini sludge without the safety strap around the tool. The tool along with the rotor flew off the Hub and blasted the wall about 7 ft from where I was working the tool came apart in 3 pieces I'm lucky I was standing to the side I probably would have got blasted. The tool did not break though it just came apart as you know they do. I'm in Utica New York so I get the same stuff you do when it comes to rust and ever since that day I'm grateful to have this tool even though I don't use it very much
Oh and thought id mention ive seen in your older vids people commenting that hitting the forcing screw does nothing. Well they r certainly wrong and must not be workin on cars in central ny
@@SouthMainAuto Live and learn, what doesn't kill ya only makes you stronger. No surrender and NO PRISONERS. That's the last time you make that mistake.
I had a wheel bearing did that to me. Luckily after I put the pulley on I had stepped away to take a break. That thing flew a few miles away. Legend has it, its still flying. Happy to see you weren't hurt
To enhance viewing pleasure, Jump to 3:05, Pause, Click the settings gear on the bottom right, Click "Speed" - change to 0.25, Play, Enjoy with Volume on. Reply with how many times you watched!
When I changed my brakes last I used some brake grease on the face of the hub after I had huge issues removing the old disks. Now I use a little Muscle Grease when I put the new ones on after cleaning the hub face. It works for me.
Mr. O, Im a professional tech of nearly 15 years. See my name for the brand Ive been with since I started. You sir, and your brothers and sisters in the rust belt are literally my heros. I dont know if Id have the stones or desire to make it a career with as much corrosion as you guys encounter daily in all seasons. My professional hero for sure!
Not that I'm a pro like yourself but I have done many brake jobs, mostly free🙄, and I put a large puller on the rotor and torque it down some and then I hit it with the torch with a cutting tip for fast heat... usually does the Job in most cases. Love the videos and don't lose a toe! 😂
O man I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one having fun with mazdas. I did full brake job on my 2011 Mazdaspeed3 and had a fun day slamming a hammer as hard as I could trying to get the rotors off. I could not believe how seized the rotors were to the hub, unbelievable how much of death grip those things have to the hub.
Next time either wear steel boots or I can recommend Dutch Clogs, which believe it or not are considered the high grade of safety shoes just like the steel ones. Although it might look a bit silly with clogs in the workshop. lol
This makes me glad I live down south and our rotors don't get rust welded do bad. I grease up my mating surface to prevent this from happening. I've just started putting lock tight on stuff that shouldn't come apart and grease on stuff that should.
Dont feel bad Eric I had a Mazda 6 2 years ago come in the same deal brakes. Well brakes turned into a wheel bearing, lower control arm, brakes and a new axle. Couldent get the rotor off called the customer and got approval to continue to smash it off with a hammer. Ended up splitting the rotor in two with a 12lb hammer and 4 hours of swinging. So get the rotor off go to pull the axle out seized In the bearing. Go to remove the lower ball joint of of the knuckle seized like a mother. Took me two days to do front brakes a wheel nearing an axle and a ball joint
48hrs to complete total job on a Mazda6? Hell that's not too far off book time right? Lol not bashing you, though I reap the auto repair benefits of living down south, I have experienced way more Rustbelt native vehicles then I'd care to have. Over recent years instead of landing in the crusher, northern vehicles have been making their way down south through used dealer auctions where state inspection laws are more lenient. Used to be I could quote jobs over the phone without a second thought, now after experiencing similar situations as you mentioned I've learned to not even give a ballpark estimate without first seeing the car. Luckily thanks to Eric O and his videos I am now better equipped and more knowledgeable on how to combat these situations, making me one of only a small few in my area willing/capable to take in these repairs.
I live in buffalo and I love this channel because you live my reality. Everyone in California changing parts thinking they are good. If said. Million times if you can be a mechanic up here you can do it any where thoes southern sally's dont even know what a torch is
After a similar experience of removing stubborn and original disc rotors on my Corolla 2006, I always brush hubs and the inner side of rotors with a light coat of anti-seize. A few years later when I was removing rotors they just popped out without any effort. I don't live in Rust Belt but anti-seize is a miracle when properly used.
No, look at their amazon pictures, they do it the exact way he did it. The job of the strap is to prevent the arms from spreading under load. A lug nut that is threaded on will prevent the rotor from flying (which they also have in their picture). Even if the strap went behind the rotor, the whole assembly can come flying off, like it did here.
Thanks for not another " Just do this and it's easy !" video, you really show how stuck they can get. Previously i gave up after one, time to try again.
Great comment, now all of Eric O’s viewers are going to sending him underwear. He may be a Duluth kind of guy but, me personally, I do not give other dudes underwear.
Doing a brake job on my Madza 3 with 160k miles on the factory hardware running in the rust belt took a sledgehammer to shatter the rotor off. I feel your pain.
ERIC, YOU ARE 1 OF THE BEST MECHANICS I HAVE EVER SEEN!!! I CANNOT BELIEVE YOU DID NOT INSTALL A COUPLE LUGS NUTS JUST IN CASE? ROOKIE MISTAKE. YOU ARE STILL A BEAST THOUGH!
I cut with a sawzall and fine metal or cast Iron cutting blade from the outside edge of the rotor in through the rotor brake surface and stop cutting just shy of the hub the rotor is stuck on. Then take a cold chisel and tap it into the slot. This will flex the rotor and help break the rust free. Just make sure you are careful cutting and don't hit anything on the inside. If it's really bad cut it a second time 180. It really doesn't take that long and is easier then beating it with a hammer.
Last one I did, that was that stuck, I broke the hat from the friction surface. I'll be damned if that wasnt the first 2 piece rotor I made on a ford fusion.
Glad you didn't get hurt! but that was hilarious... The first time I removed an old set of dayton truck wheels the first one flew off and knocked me on my butt. I learned very quick to leave the nuts partially on the studs!
Your video inspired me to try the same technique with my biggest and best Harbor Freight puller on my 2003 Grand Cherokee. I used my brand new Milwaukee 18 Volt impact set on power level 3 of 4. Hey watch this... It was spectacular when it finally went ping. I was prepared but it still scared the crap out of me. Somehow the HF puller survived too. Your videos are so helpful for understanding how to work on rust belt cars because I live in Arizona and never dealt with this level of difficulty. Thank You
Man that was scary, I don't have that tool you use and ended up pulling spindle from car and putting in a hydraulic press, and when it finally broke free it scared the bejesus out of me! I put a light coat of anti seize on all mating surfaces on assembly and have no flaying of anti seize on affected areas. I really enjoy your channel.
I hope those in the south like flat rate master who say flat rate is better than hourly and salary and also say that they can do a brake job in a few minutes are watching this video. NOTHING in the rust belt and in New England goes by the book. I've had few of these nightmare Rotors and screws also, that usually turn the job to a 4 or 5 hours job very quickly. Can you imagine if Eric O didn't have big nasty and all the other badass tools in his arsenal, it would have turn into way more trouble than it was. Keep up the Great work Mr. Eric, I'm looking forward to your next video.
I got a mazda 6, the 10mm hole will do nothing but get one more thing stuck. I do not know why the rotors stick on like they do on mazda 6's but they certainly do.....but only the first change.
Bloody hell!!, you nearly got a smack in the love spuds :-D You need a danger bucket with a hole in the bottom, fit the bucket over the rotor and extractor, clip the handle to the suspension strut. ' The Danger Bucket ' Only 19.95 At all good stores, bad ones too :-D
For you semi-amateur mechanics out there what you just saw is very real. I had rotor I needed to remove off an old MG that I was having the same problem with. The usual treatment with a hammer had no effect. I next went to the pulley puller and proceeded to crank it down and intermittently whacking it with the hammer. I was starting to get real nervous when I could see the rotor was starting to bow. And yes it was about that time that all hell broke loose. The puller ended up on one side of the garage and the rotor on the other. When you are doing this you definitely want to get way to the side of your work! Even so It will still knock you down, probably just the concussion of the parts flying my your head.
Ah yes , reminds me of the old days pressing Cat D 9 sprockets off. Make sure to put the big nut back on with about a quarter inch gap. Don't ask me how I know.
I had to CUT the rotor on a 1978 Chevy Nova in pieces. It didnt matter what I did. I tried EVERYTHING humanly possible. In the end, I used a cut off wheel and cut from the stud to the outside edge. I had to make it into pie wedges and EVERY WEDGE was STUCK . It was my first experience with a frozen on brake rotor. What a joke! I learned after that USE ANTI SEIZE . Period.
In 1992 I bought a Plymouth Laser. Todd Day moderated the support forum for these Mitsubishi cars - the Talon Digest. Todd wanted to replace his rotors but couldn't get them off. A friend of his had a hydraulic puller. They maxed that out to no effect. As they walked away the machine and rotor assembly embedded itself in the wall. The accepted practice in those day was to take a large chisel and cut the rotor into pie shaped pieces. These cars would even stick the wheels on to where they had to be hammered off. Fun, fun, fun.
looks like you gave it the beans and it gave it straight back :0 i really don't mean to take joy in your painful moment but i really enjoyed your comedy and making fun of the situation. you've really got a unique way of making content for youtube unlike any other channel. i recently got let go from a workshop so i really needed this today. thanks :)
I used mine in a 18v cordless drill just because it was easier to swap with the larger chuck compared to finding the collet wrenches for the die grinder. Even with the lower rpm from the drill there was absolutely no issue cleaning the stud bases. 2-3 seconds per stud and you get a perfectly clean hub face just as Eric shows. I believe the pads will last a fair amount also as they are fairly aggressive and hard.
I did a wheel bearing a month or so ago and had to get out the grinder and cutting wheel and cut the damn rotor off. Didn’t have a puller tool. Busted the rotor to pieces with a sledge before cutting it off. Pennsylvania cars are always fun to work on.
Very entertaining to say the least. It reminded me of the time I had a sticking emergency brake cable and didn't know it. The wheel got so hot that the tire blew up. The brake drum was practically welded on. When I got it home, I beat on the brake drum with a sledge hammer and after what seemed like forever it finally flew off.
OTC 6980 Heavy Duty Brake Drum and Rotor Puller: amzn.to/2T1Lds7
Astro Pneumatic Tool 4980 0.498" Shank Super Duty Air Hammer/Riveter: amzn.to/2X8aGzz
What is that hollow abrasive wheel you placed over the studs to clean around them?
Did my front pads....took me ages! I'm no mechanic but worked in a garage for may years and watched many youtube videos.You just need a bot of confidence so i did my front pads,didn't have a plate on them so i had to put the old plates onto the new ones which of course kept slipping.It is a fairly easy thing to do folks.I wouldn't do my rear shoes thou lol a bit complicated for my liking.
David Hart, Thanks for the PN. if SMA adds it to his Amazon Page I'll get it from them.
What is the lug stud cleaner that you use also? Wanting to expand my tool kit a bit, but havent been able to really find a good lug stud cleaner like you have?
South Main Auto Repair LLC LAST MONTH DIDN'T YOU BUST UP A SHOCK AND TURN INTO A FLAME THROWER?!?!?! NICE ROLLING FOR THE 2019 SEASON 💪.
Leave a lug nut or two on a few threads to prevent that. Toe crush time and knee.
Good advice - or another ratchet strap from the puller to the suspension somewhere w/ a little slack.
Randy Carpenter - Maybe 5 lug nuts based on how that rotor launched!
i put all on to stop more things flying
Totally essential Leon, He scarred Mrs O pretty good.
That thing would have flattened me had I been standing there. If the puller comes out a couple nuts always go on. Doesn't help when you tear the chinesium brim off the hat though.
Cat- like reflexes, woman- like screams
Too funny! I couldn't help it.... I LMAO. Glad it missed his toes.
Yep, glad it missed Eric's toes, but you are right Mike.
😂
Funny guy!
uhh aAAHHHHhh UUHh AH uh AHHHHHH ooo MAAA GAAAT
Brake cleaner was used off camera...to clean his underwear 😂
No doubt. lol
Yeah...and we didn't get the usual loud "DONG!" either!
LMFAO. SPOT ON .
Oh gawd, I'm sitting with with tears in my eyes laughing so hard. You win BEST COMMENT AWARD!!!!
Not sure brake clean alone would get it. Maybe a wire brush with it!
I'm in the rust belt of Canada and have used the threaded holes a number of times. The trick is to do it on rotors that have 2 holes. But the bolts in and tighten them up but don't strip. Then hit with hammer. Bang rotor flies off. It won't work on that Mazda though. I've had 4 lb hammer sessions on Mazdas before. Nothing like beating a rotor for half an hour
So the entire country?
6lb 24" handle Wilton bash hammer. Favorite hammer in the shop. Also excellent for Explorer rear wheel bearings. Used to beat on those in 2 man teams for upwards of an hour at the last place I worked. Not even the otc hub grappler wanted to work on those
@@matts.8342 Nah just the parts that use salt, BC and Alberta cars look as good as new mexico because their government isn't stupid and uses beet juice and sand.
Mrs. O was like "I'm bout to get paayyed!" But then she came out and saw you were okay... That's love my friend
Ah yes safety glasses just in case a 20 pound rotor goes airborne.
😆 my thoughts exactly
Ya never know
I thought it was said in jest. On the other hand every little bit helps
OMG I bout pee'd my pants laughing when that rotor let loose . Classic. Made my day after a bad day at work. Thanks Eric.
S&M Auto
You're are so very lucky! I was removing the rear rotors on my GMT-800 '03 Silverado SS. I had backed off the adjusters properly past the rust ridge on the driver's side and lightly banged around with my stubby 32 Oz. sledge. While rocking it back and forth is was giving, but slowly. Crouching in and squatting as I was, I gave it the college go one last time. Oh, she gave. She gave and whanged hard off my only arthritic knee. I was sucking wind, choking back tears and rolling on my back like an upturned tortoise in my driveway for a solid 5 minutes and questioning my role in life, the Earth and the Universe as a whole.
Long time watcher, long time fan - but first time poster. Brother, you're so lucky that rotor and tool didn't gut punch you in half! Hang in there bro, and stay safe. Please! You're an insightful and skilled instructor and repair tech that we all desperately pray for if we can't garage or shade-tree fix it ourselves.
I was struggling not to laugh while reading this at work, but i know for a fact i wouldn't be laughing if it happened to me lmao.
I feel your pain, man. People in non-rust prone areas just don't understand the struggle. I've had rotors shatter when using the same puller and a big nasty. Be careful!
I was working with a friend in a driveway on a really stuck rotor. He tried using the caliper bracket on the knuckle and a bolt to drive off the rotor.
That turned into a new knuckle. Of course the lower ball joint was stuck in it, so throw in a new lower control arm. And it had press in wheel bearings so no point in changing that over. And it was easier to just grab the strut too since it's only 3 bolts in the fender.
Turned a pad and rotor slap into a front suspension rebuild!
.. with junkyard parts
Fuckin hell dude. 😂
Same here a broken ball joint to a new upper control arm, tie rods hub bearings since it's the Ford rotor where it has a bearing on the spindle. Left the suspension alone since the lower control arm holds the spring, I wish it was a strut.
Last time I had one this stuck, I just put a hole in the concrete under it and used a big ass prybar like a lever.
I had one turn into new hubs, no issues getting those out but damn those rotors weren’t coming off!
Some guys just don't know when to break out the sledge other don't know when to leave it in the corner.
This reminds me of a similar situation I encountered when I first started to work in an automotive shop during the late 60s. Forget now exactly what kind of truck it was but the heavy cast brake drums would seize onto the axle hub. We had special large pullers just for that application and you could pre-load that sucker within an inch of it's life and beat on it all day to no avail.
My dad also a mechanic should me the easy way to take it off using an O/A torch and no puller. Heat the drum up evenly and when it goes"tink" from expansion and release you can remove it by hand. That trick saved me lots of grief in the ensuing years.
Love this channel, keep up the good work!
I used to work on cars that had their hubs splined to the axle shaft. Had one Volvo P1800 that had max tension applied with a puller, soaked down in Kroil, heated with a OxyAcet torch and pounded on with a sledge -- all at the same time. Three of us had been working on it. Still hot and under tension we were all standing back trying to figure out what to do next when one guy just tapped it with a 10mm combination wrench like he was pointing at it and the whole assembly flew apart explosively. Just that little 'tink' did it.
I can also remember a VW bus (also splined) that just wouldn't give it up. I ended up cutting the drum and hub off with a chisel.
Probably the same truck I was working on
Internationals with the semi floating axles. been there done that
Lol i was scrolling for someone to mention a torch. Wouldve been the first thing i went for
As an auto-shop teacher this happenend to my students as well. It was the same type of Mazda 6. We hammered the hell on it, lastly with a very large sledge hammer; didn't budge. I eventually heated the disc with an acetylene burner until it was cherry-red and then tried it with the sledgehammer; it did not budge....
Brake job or Break job, SMA gets it done.
Every brake job i do, i like to put lube on the ears of the pads, rather than dry, keeps from seizing in the future, i also lube the slide pins regardless of whats in there, love your channel, been a mechanic for 23 yrs, keep up the good stuff..👍🔧
toolguy40dg yup, I’m the only guy in the shop that does that.
also a little lube on the hub so the rotor won’t get too stuck eother
Eric O, Mrs.O looked concerned like should I make him lunch or call 911......
or call the funeral home and the probate attorney
@@lackeydehackey405 or the insurance policy
Nah, he's still standing
She’s lucky it didn’t cut off the family making hose.
I wonder how many times Mrs O heard the words"honey bring the first aid kit will ya"
I know this is an older video but I wanted to say thanks. Because of this video I went and bought this rotor puller. Saved me money, frustration and I’m sure some skinned up knuckles!! It worked perfectly.
Had to watch the intro twice.... Laughed my butt off. Thanks for making my day Eric O.
Me too, that was comedy gold
I love the part where he put his hand in front of it 😂😂 pure gold.
Hey, I am doing that in a driveway in NY! At least this time it isn’t February. You’ve saved my ass more times than I can remember. Always informative and entertaining!
Eric I also have this tool and I had a 2014 Town And Country van on my lift. I beat the snot out of the rotor until I finally broke out this tool when it wouldn't come off. I put the OTC tool on it and put a ton of torque on it with my Milwaukee half inch impact and then hit the forcing screw with a mini sludge without the safety strap around the tool. The tool along with the rotor flew off the Hub and blasted the wall about 7 ft from where I was working the tool came apart in 3 pieces I'm lucky I was standing to the side I probably would have got blasted. The tool did not break though it just came apart as you know they do. I'm in Utica New York so I get the same stuff you do when it comes to rust and ever since that day I'm grateful to have this tool even though I don't use it very much
Oh and thought id mention ive seen in your older vids people commenting that hitting the forcing screw does nothing. Well they r certainly wrong and must not be workin on cars in central ny
cny makes working on anything a nightmare. I'm west of rome.
I learn something new about rust in every video of yours I watch.
I think that a couple of lug nuts, loose, would prevent that.
You're a brave man Eric O, even experts learn new things every day.
To avoid all that , leaving a lug nut or 2 on the studs would be the best idea ... But as always great video 👌👍
Glad none of your body parts were hurt. I couldn't agree more that it could have been worse. You tube wouldn't be the same without your videos👍.
When I see things like this it makes me thankful that I live in the south. If I lived up north I wouldn't be a mechanic.
That hose is GREAT!! It don’t like hot melt from cutting with a torch but if you keep that in mind you will love that hose..
Glad my favorite guy didn't get hurt.👍👍👍
Mazda rotor revenge! Your approach is professional better than a hammer blow.
Does it help any if you barely put a lug nut on there?
Hind sight is always 20/20 :)
@@SouthMainAuto Live and learn, what doesn't kill ya only makes you stronger. No surrender and NO PRISONERS. That's the last time you make that mistake.
Maybe that's why they don't include a strap to attach it to the car. I would've done the same thing as Eric. I didn't think about it either.
In my experience, what doesn't kill you tends to just piss you off.
Man, if this wasn't an SMA video, a lot of comments would be eating inside and out the mechanic for not putting a few lug nuts on,
I had a wheel bearing did that to me. Luckily after I put the pulley on I had stepped away to take a break. That thing flew a few miles away. Legend has it, its still flying. Happy to see you weren't hurt
To enhance viewing pleasure, Jump to 3:05, Pause, Click the settings gear on the bottom right, Click "Speed" - change to 0.25, Play, Enjoy with Volume on. Reply with how many times you watched!
like a sound from hell ))
Too many 😂 “ohhhhhhhh it cuttt theee hossseeeeee”
@@a-lineaficionado1000 went back to watch. I'm dyin dude
When I changed my brakes last I used some brake grease on the face of the hub after I had huge issues removing the old disks. Now I use a little Muscle Grease when I put the new ones on after cleaning the hub face. It works for me.
Whoa 😲 No CRC brake clean?
Yeah really, brake video without brake clean i feel let down. Although big nasty and the puller did kinda steal the show.
Who are you and what have you done with Eric?
I'm sure he would prefer carb cleaner for this kind of job.
Mr. O, Im a professional tech of nearly 15 years. See my name for the brand Ive been with since I started. You sir, and your brothers and sisters in the rust belt are literally my heros. I dont know if Id have the stones or desire to make it a career with as much corrosion as you guys encounter daily in all seasons. My professional hero for sure!
Not that I'm a pro like yourself but I have done many brake jobs, mostly free🙄, and I put a large puller on the rotor and torque it down some and then I hit it with the torch with a cutting tip for fast heat... usually does the Job in most cases. Love the videos and don't lose a toe! 😂
Totally my favorite? Why are near death experiences so funny? I laugh everytime!
Hi Eric, would keeping one or two of the lugnuts attached to the studs during the pulling process prevent the rotor from flying off next time?
Glad you didn't get hurt, and thanks for sharing the nasty side of what goes on in maintenance and repair. Too many folks think everything is easy
“You think I was dead??”
Just wondering when I’m getting my insurance money 💰
“The safety strap” is my new CB handle.
I live in the south and didn’t know there was a tool to remove rotors, thanks for the great video.
Even Timmy would be proud of you on that repair. He would have never been able to get that rotor off.
Baseball catchers gear required. Stand back and...Whoa!! Enjoyed as always.
"Twig and berries"
LMFAO 😂
O man I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one having fun with mazdas. I did full brake job on my 2011 Mazdaspeed3 and had a fun day slamming a hammer as hard as I could trying to get the rotors off. I could not believe how seized the rotors were to the hub, unbelievable how much of death grip those things have to the hub.
I've never seen a brake rotor turn into a guillotine so fast. I'll be watching my toes if I get into that mess. It was fun to watch though.
Next time either wear steel boots or I can recommend Dutch Clogs, which believe it or not are considered the high grade of safety shoes just like the steel ones. Although it might look a bit silly with clogs in the workshop. lol
or just use a nylon strap to catch the rotor hanging on the lower arm
This makes me glad I live down south and our rotors don't get rust welded do bad. I grease up my mating surface to prevent this from happening. I've just started putting lock tight on stuff that shouldn't come apart and grease on stuff that should.
Dont feel bad Eric I had a Mazda 6 2 years ago come in the same deal brakes. Well brakes turned into a wheel bearing, lower control arm, brakes and a new axle. Couldent get the rotor off called the customer and got approval to continue to smash it off with a hammer. Ended up splitting the rotor in two with a 12lb hammer and 4 hours of swinging. So get the rotor off go to pull the axle out seized In the bearing. Go to remove the lower ball joint of of the knuckle seized like a mother. Took me two days to do front brakes a wheel nearing an axle and a ball joint
48hrs to complete total job on a Mazda6? Hell that's not too far off book time right?
Lol not bashing you, though I reap the auto repair benefits of living down south, I have experienced way more Rustbelt native vehicles then I'd care to have. Over recent years instead of landing in the crusher, northern vehicles have been making their way down south through used dealer auctions where state inspection laws are more lenient. Used to be I could quote jobs over the phone without a second thought, now after experiencing similar situations as you mentioned I've learned to not even give a ballpark estimate without first seeing the car. Luckily thanks to Eric O and his videos I am now better equipped and more knowledgeable on how to combat these situations, making me one of only a small few in my area willing/capable to take in these repairs.
I live in buffalo and I love this channel because you live my reality. Everyone in California changing parts thinking they are good. If said. Million times if you can be a mechanic up here you can do it any where thoes southern sally's dont even know what a torch is
"I think the big event was in the first couple of minutes." - Story of my life bro.
Too much information.. :s
After a similar experience of removing stubborn and original disc rotors on my Corolla 2006, I always brush hubs and the inner side of rotors with a light coat of anti-seize.
A few years later when I was removing rotors they just popped out without any effort.
I don't live in Rust Belt but anti-seize is a miracle when properly used.
ISN'T THE SAFETY STRAP SUPPOSE TO GO AROUND THE BACK OF THE ROTOR?
No, look at their amazon pictures, they do it the exact way he did it. The job of the strap is to prevent the arms from spreading under load. A lug nut that is threaded on will prevent the rotor from flying (which they also have in their picture). Even if the strap went behind the rotor, the whole assembly can come flying off, like it did here.
Thanks for not another " Just do this and it's easy !" video, you really show how stuck they can get. Previously i gave up after one, time to try again.
Now that was a brake job worth watching,,😁😁
Far out! Super glad you're okay. Was amazing to see that thing launch itself off though, I never imagined something like that was possible.
Those brakes can be restored to like new condition, your underwear can't.
Are underwear covered by OSHA?
Great comment, now all of Eric O’s viewers are going to sending him underwear. He may be a Duluth kind of guy but, me personally, I do not give other dudes underwear.
I have a few relatively new boxers I could send him. Do you think he's more the roaring tiger or pink bunny type?
@@fascistpedant758 I believe those would fall under NYSDEC or the EPA.
@@timothybarney7257 - In MA, going without underwear is illegal ... due to excessive emissions ... 😷
Doing a brake job on my Madza 3 with 160k miles on the factory hardware running in the rust belt took a sledgehammer to shatter the rotor off. I feel your pain.
Comedy when rotor puller or gear puller used on brake rotor or hub, stand back and stand by when rotor or hub goes flying 😂
ERIC, YOU ARE 1 OF THE BEST MECHANICS I HAVE EVER SEEN!!! I CANNOT BELIEVE YOU DID NOT INSTALL A COUPLE LUGS NUTS JUST IN CASE? ROOKIE MISTAKE. YOU ARE STILL A BEAST THOUGH!
Pucker Factor lvl 100 holy cow!
I cut with a sawzall and fine metal or cast Iron cutting blade from the outside edge of the rotor in through the rotor brake surface and stop cutting just shy of the hub the rotor is stuck on. Then take a cold chisel and tap it into the slot. This will flex the rotor and help break the rust free. Just make sure you are careful cutting and don't hit anything on the inside. If it's really bad cut it a second time 180. It really doesn't take that long and is easier then beating it with a hammer.
Last one I did, that was that stuck, I broke the hat from the friction surface. I'll be damned if that wasnt the first 2 piece rotor I made on a ford fusion.
I've seen that once too. Imagine the beating the bearing takes!
you build it we destroy it This is what happens to the rotor when all the service garage guys do is pad slaps on the trucks.
I love those hoses. I switched all mine in my shop to them. So far so good!
Love action packed repair tutorials
I used a 7 ton gear puller on some back rotors that we're really really stuck on, worked great!
Glad you didn't get hurt! but that was hilarious... The first time I removed an old set of dayton truck wheels the first one flew off and knocked me on my butt. I learned very quick to leave the nuts partially on the studs!
Your video inspired me to try the same technique with my biggest and best Harbor Freight puller on my 2003 Grand Cherokee. I used my brand new Milwaukee 18 Volt impact set on power level 3 of 4. Hey watch this... It was spectacular when it finally went ping. I was prepared but it still scared the crap out of me. Somehow the HF puller survived too. Your videos are so helpful for understanding how to work on rust belt cars because I live in Arizona and never dealt with this level of difficulty. Thank You
An SMA brake replacement video with NO BRAKE CLEANER?
That's how traumatic the experience was he forgot about it lol
Yea, what's up with that?
That is the beauty of the coated rotors as long as you keep your grubby mitts off them.
The RUclips suits told him to curtail the use of brake cleaner due to harm to rust. Rust is a protected species in some parts.
He used it all on his underwear
Man that was scary, I don't have that tool you use and ended up pulling spindle from car and putting in a hydraulic press, and when it finally broke free it scared the bejesus out of me! I put a light coat of anti seize on all mating surfaces on assembly and have no flaying of anti seize on affected areas. I really enjoy your channel.
I hope those in the south like flat rate master who say flat rate is better than hourly and salary and also say that they can do a brake job in a few minutes are watching this video. NOTHING in the rust belt and in New England goes by the book. I've had few of these nightmare Rotors and screws also, that usually turn the job to a 4 or 5 hours job very quickly. Can you imagine if Eric O didn't have big nasty and all the other badass tools in his arsenal, it would have turn into way more trouble than it was. Keep up the Great work Mr. Eric, I'm looking forward to your next video.
Brah !! Your not using the little hole to remove rotors !! That's why your having such a hard time !!
WEStTEXAs yeah it’s all fine until the bolt snaps off in there lol
In the rust belt that's alot easier said than done.
The amount of rust falling off the rotor when big nasty was hammering away was nuts
I got a mazda 6, the 10mm hole will do nothing but get one more thing stuck. I do not know why the rotors stick on like they do on mazda 6's but they certainly do.....but only the first change.
That might work in Texas but not in NY state.
Flexzilla is the only hose I use in my garage! Love it!
I leave a few loose lug nuts on for that very reason
That does not make good tv!
Probably says as much in the instructions. Nuts to keep the rotor from flying, safety strap to keep the puller flinging off of the rotor.
Paisley Prince
A few loose lug nuts are all some of us have left, don’t take that away 😂😂😂😂
OMG, I must have rewind that part where is the brake rotor explodes off like 4 times!! I laughed so hard I blew tears!!
Bloody hell!!, you nearly got a smack in the love spuds :-D
You need a danger bucket with a hole in the bottom, fit the bucket over the rotor and extractor, clip the handle to the suspension strut.
' The Danger Bucket ' Only 19.95 At all good stores, bad ones too :-D
zx8401ztv
I hope your happy now I’m going to paint “ danger bucket “ on a bucket and bring it to the shop. 😂😂😂😂😂
For you semi-amateur mechanics out there what you just saw is very real. I had rotor I needed to remove off an old MG that I was having the same problem with. The usual treatment with a hammer had no effect. I next went to the pulley puller and proceeded to crank it down and intermittently whacking it with the hammer. I was starting to get real nervous when I could see the rotor was starting to bow. And yes it was about that time that all hell broke loose. The puller ended up on one side of the garage and the rotor on the other. When you are doing this you definitely want to get way to the side of your work! Even so It will still knock you down, probably just the concussion of the parts flying my your head.
Ah yes , reminds me of the old days pressing Cat D 9 sprockets off. Make sure to put the big nut back on with about a quarter inch gap. Don't ask me how I know.
How far did it go?
@@Big_Loo this far, and it was thaaat scary
Agree completely on your comment about the rotor screw hole being useless if there's any rust.
I had to CUT the rotor on a 1978 Chevy Nova in pieces. It didnt matter what I did. I tried EVERYTHING humanly possible. In the end, I used a cut off wheel and cut from the stud to the outside edge. I had to make it into pie wedges and EVERY WEDGE was STUCK . It was my first experience with a frozen on brake rotor. What a joke! I learned after that USE ANTI SEIZE . Period.
In 1992 I bought a Plymouth Laser. Todd Day moderated the support forum for these Mitsubishi cars - the Talon Digest. Todd wanted to replace his rotors but couldn't get them off. A friend of his had a hydraulic puller. They maxed that out to no effect. As they walked away the machine and rotor assembly embedded itself in the wall. The accepted practice in those day was to take a large chisel and cut the rotor into pie shaped pieces. These cars would even stick the wheels on to where they had to be hammered off. Fun, fun, fun.
Your now officially a stunt man lol.
Watching these, I get a similar sense of satisfaction as working on the car but my hands are clean and soft for mama when I get done.
GREAT way to start any day..... Drink some coffee, huff some Brake Cleaner and watch BIGG NaStY rip apart some brake rotors SMA style. 💖💖💖
looks like you gave it the beans and it gave it straight back :0 i really don't mean to take joy in your painful moment but i really enjoyed your comedy and making fun of the situation. you've really got a unique way of making content for youtube unlike any other channel. i recently got let go from a workshop so i really needed this today. thanks :)
I had this happen 1 time. I thread on lug nuts on at 3 studs to catch it now.
Yay, Fluid Film. I finally picked up (found locally) a can myself. Can't wait to spray it on one of the hubs on my cars!
Do you have a link for the device you used for cleaning around the studs? Put it on your Amazon page
It's in the Amazon link. 3M 07547
Just purchased one and oh man does it work good!
@@gtoboss600 I'm thinking about buying one as well. It's the bees knees as Eric O. would say.
I used mine in a 18v cordless drill just because it was easier to swap with the larger chuck compared to finding the collet wrenches for the die grinder. Even with the lower rpm from the drill there was absolutely no issue cleaning the stud bases. 2-3 seconds per stud and you get a perfectly clean hub face just as Eric shows. I believe the pads will last a fair amount also as they are fairly aggressive and hard.
Agree with leaving a lug nut or two on. That safety strap appears to be just to help keep the puller jaws from separating away from the rotor.
Mazda 6?...should be Mazda 666..car from hell..
Big nasty material
I don't think I've ever had a good time working on mazdas.
Damien's new transportation.
Andrew Lawrence i always do.
It happened but you as always will prevail Dr. E.O.
“Just remember viewers, if I can’t get the rotor off, you can’t get the rotor off!
I did a wheel bearing a month or so ago and had to get out the grinder and cutting wheel and cut the damn rotor off. Didn’t have a puller tool. Busted the rotor to pieces with a sledge before cutting it off. Pennsylvania cars are always fun to work on.
Sounds like a good time to do a compilation, a bloopers reel :-)
I was fixing my uncles Ram 1500 brakes and had the same thing happen. Thanks for the video, gave me a laugh!
Isn’t that how goalies train in Canada?!
Very entertaining to say the least.
It reminded me of the time I had a sticking emergency brake cable and didn't know it. The wheel got so hot that the tire blew up. The brake drum was practically welded on. When I got it home, I beat on the brake drum with a sledge hammer and after what seemed like forever it finally flew off.
Brain Surgeon: "Ah, shit."
...
Brain Surgeon: "Not again!"
Crazy rotor jumping, wow glad your ok.
I should send Mr O. a nice pair of earmuffs, his ears will thank me when he's 70.
That was awesome Eric!!!! I’ve never seen a rotor fly off like that thank you for that laugh I needed that!!!!!!!!