I found the math part of this interesting, because I know you are always looking to be more efficient/save time, and you could actually reduce/eliminate most of the measuring. Most of the math isn't even complicated. There are really just two ratios that are going to be relevant - maybe four actually if you count the inverse of those two, but for the most part, just the two. The first one is the pitch itself. You can either divide the pitch out - ex. 5 / 12 = 0.41667 - or just treat it like a fraction. I noticed at one point you were measuring each stud and saw that the differences in length are always 10" - it's a 5/12 pitch, and you have 24" stud spacing, so 5 x 24 / 12 = 10. The difference in length is always double the pitch with 24" spacing. The math also works with any other stud spacing, though the numbers might not be as clean. If you had 16" stud spacing for example, it would be slightly more complicated, but you could still just multiply the 16 by that fraction - ie., 5 x 16 / 12 - and that would be the difference in length from one stud to the next along the same pitch. This works for any other distances, and since it's just a ratio, it works in any units as well (you get the same units out as you put in - inches, feet, centimeters, meters, etc.). The other useful ratio is the length along the roof pitch vs. perpendicular/level length. You calculated this repeatedly with the construction calculator, but if you get the ratio, all you'd have to do is a simple multiply. The Pythagorean Theorem is used for this, and it's a very useful algorithm and worth looking up, but this is the easy version: Divide out the roof pitch, (ex. 5 / 12). Then square that number. Add one. Then square root. The result is the ratio between lengths along the pitch vs. lengths along the ground. It's also actually the ratio between the thickness of a board when it is perpendicular to the ground, vs. how much height it adds when tilted by the roof pitch. In the case of a 5/12 roof, it's 1 5/8" for 2x lumber. Ie., sqrt((5 / 12)^2 + 1) x 1.5 = 1.625
Idk if this is intentional, but if it is well done sir. I just realized my phone has 2 speakers 1 at either end, and when you were on one side of the frame the sound was on the same side. I believe this is a testament to your videography. Whether intended or not I see your skill and hard work you put into the content. Also love your guys taste in music, 90s kids ftw.
Also thank you for helping me realize something about my phone, who knew you could get some kind of pseudo surround sound out of a phone, at the least it shows high quality filming.
Thanks for showing the time spend on teaching and quality conrol (measure twice, cut once). And the occasional oopsie everybody makes, and then corrects themselves. I will never be a framer (Netherlands is brick and cement built mostly), but i love seeing your techniques and ideas.
So i build the rake walls with rafters incorporated instead of top plate the studs notch around the rafters and that gets me my rafter pattern at the same time i like what your doing here though i might try it this way but i would have to make my rafter pattern laying it on the wall because if i tried to do it after with the math i know I'd mess things up
The symmetry and coordinated production between you and your swayer is spectacular. I always look forward to your Sat PM videos as I watch them, Sunday morning with my coffee...................very relaxing and rewarding. Could I please ask what is the Yellow/Black hook type thing on your tool belt, behind your right side pouches? Keep up the amazing work!
When you sheath your walls to the outside corners of the sheathing over lap or is there a gap that's the thickness of the sheathing between the two? As in when a through wall and butt wall meet does the sheathing fon the through wall and butt wall over lap or do they stay separate typically?
What’s the name of the App you use to work out your angles? I watch you guys for a refresher and use some of your ideas on my project down under. Do you have an app that converts imperial to metric. Thanks TonyO
Ok, why 5 top cripples above the window? If the two outside cripples on either side below the window aren't doing anything, what are the two outside top cripples doing structurally? Unless your sheathing edge is hitting there.
Isn’t the load transferring through the extra 2 cripples to the header then into the trimmers??? I would keep 5 up top rather than 3. But then again this is much lighter framing than we see with 150lb snow loads in my area.
@@jeffcobuilds2660 on a rake wall, the load path is directed down the rake rather than straight down through the wall, which is why Tim said before “we don’t really need a header on a rake wall, but the engineer spec’d it so here we are”. Even if this was the more modern version with a flat wall and a gable end truss, that window still wouldn’t need a solid header. But engineers win….always lol.
@@jeffcobuilds2660 Nope, the load from above is on the header which then transfers down the trimmer/jack studs. The double kings take the minute amount of load and those end cripples are pointless.
[1:54] Don't blame it on the blade. We can't be changing to fresh blades all the time like we change batteries. I'm beginning to hate cordless saws for anything but quick, rough or secondary work, except maybe for cutting on the roof, esp. sheet. As much as they are hyped all over the internet and everyone is using them now, the truth is they still suck hard compared to corded saws. The power is not even close on the first cut with a fresh battery and the truth is it goes downhill fast no matter what size battery you are running. People talk about going all day or half a day on one--BS. Working Oregon winters in 30-40 degree weather, I am changing even 8ah circular saw batteries pretty regularly. The other day killed four in a row in like ten minutes trying to rip 2x6 with a cordless Milwaukee table saw. Totally useless. We should be going back to corded for another ten years.
@@AwesomeFramers I can not find end grain/ edge grain fastening into LVL in any of the manufacturers installation guides. Best practices usually call for a hanger or blind hanger when co-planar to the sheathing plane. The 1: 1 for screws, 1:1.5 for nails is a wood to wood heuristic I got from Taunton press' Fine Homebuilding back in the eighties when I was framing new construction more than the remodels I do now.
@@georgemckenzie2525 I know the rule as 1:1 for screws and 1:2 for nails, but 1.5 might be for ringshanks. That rule is just a rough guideline though and also doesn't really work with larger wood/screws. For example all the 140-400mm timber-screws I use have the same thread length, 100mm I think.
@@dabj9546 I love high strength structural lags, and use them frequently. For shear and withdrawal they are first rate. The issue is the plywood nature of the LVL construction, and between layer application of the lag. I use hangers, or steel mending plates with strap shot gun nails for this material. In Boston, inspectors did not want to see any structural fasteners period, full stop, within 2 inches of edge or end of any LVL. I guess I'd use them to snug up and clamp the joint prior to hanger or plate application, but pull them to fight another day.
I don't remember, but he said a number for the stud near the ridgebeam pocket., i guess 1,5 " bottom plate, plus longest stud was 185" plus 3,25" for the diagonal through the double top plate. (=189,75") And that is a point 3" of the ridge (beam carrying the ridge beam was 6"x6" ) So a bit over 190" (15'10")
@@bertbergers9171 Reason why I asked is because, I m going to be building a Ridge wall similar to that one. I am actually designing a home with a double shed roof, some thing like that!!!
Boggling We’re watching to learn and this is over our head Is there a crayola version for dummies? We’ve built before but clearly we made a lot of mistakes Everything is still standing lol But next one we want to live in forever It would probably help if my idea for finished look wasn’t always unconventional 😂
I think what you actually mean is when you're building your house do what you want with cripples but this is mine so leave me alone? Cause I'm with that.
I found the math part of this interesting, because I know you are always looking to be more efficient/save time, and you could actually reduce/eliminate most of the measuring. Most of the math isn't even complicated. There are really just two ratios that are going to be relevant - maybe four actually if you count the inverse of those two, but for the most part, just the two.
The first one is the pitch itself. You can either divide the pitch out - ex. 5 / 12 = 0.41667 - or just treat it like a fraction.
I noticed at one point you were measuring each stud and saw that the differences in length are always 10" - it's a 5/12 pitch, and you have 24" stud spacing, so 5 x 24 / 12 = 10. The difference in length is always double the pitch with 24" spacing. The math also works with any other stud spacing, though the numbers might not be as clean. If you had 16" stud spacing for example, it would be slightly more complicated, but you could still just multiply the 16 by that fraction - ie., 5 x 16 / 12 - and that would be the difference in length from one stud to the next along the same pitch. This works for any other distances, and since it's just a ratio, it works in any units as well (you get the same units out as you put in - inches, feet, centimeters, meters, etc.).
The other useful ratio is the length along the roof pitch vs. perpendicular/level length. You calculated this repeatedly with the construction calculator, but if you get the ratio, all you'd have to do is a simple multiply. The Pythagorean Theorem is used for this, and it's a very useful algorithm and worth looking up, but this is the easy version: Divide out the roof pitch, (ex. 5 / 12). Then square that number. Add one. Then square root. The result is the ratio between lengths along the pitch vs. lengths along the ground.
It's also actually the ratio between the thickness of a board when it is perpendicular to the ground, vs. how much height it adds when tilted by the roof pitch. In the case of a 5/12 roof, it's 1 5/8" for 2x lumber. Ie., sqrt((5 / 12)^2 + 1) x 1.5 = 1.625
Idk if this is intentional, but if it is well done sir. I just realized my phone has 2 speakers 1 at either end, and when you were on one side of the frame the sound was on the same side. I believe this is a testament to your videography. Whether intended or not I see your skill and hard work you put into the content. Also love your guys taste in music, 90s kids ftw.
Also thank you for helping me realize something about my phone, who knew you could get some kind of pseudo surround sound out of a phone, at the least it shows high quality filming.
@@skid7519 it's based on wether the audio is stereo or mono.
Thanks for showing the time spend on teaching and quality conrol (measure twice, cut once).
And the occasional oopsie everybody makes, and then corrects themselves.
I will never be a framer (Netherlands is brick and cement built mostly), but i love seeing your techniques and ideas.
I love that flush trim router on a stick!
Love your videos and your mindset when working, some guys snap lines on the floor and build from that but I like this method better, subscribed!
Always worth it….my boy and I love your channel. Watch it every evening when new vids come out. Good work
Keep it coming 🥳🥳🥳
As always... absolutely fabulous 🥳🥳🥳
So i build the rake walls with rafters incorporated instead of top plate the studs notch around the rafters and that gets me my rafter pattern at the same time i like what your doing here though i might try it this way but i would have to make my rafter pattern laying it on the wall because if i tried to do it after with the math i know I'd mess things up
The symmetry and coordinated production between you and your swayer is spectacular. I always look forward to your Sat PM videos as I watch them, Sunday morning with my coffee...................very relaxing and rewarding. Could I please ask what is the Yellow/Black hook type thing on your tool belt, behind your right side pouches? Keep up the amazing work!
Would you believe that was the first wall we framed together?
Its a little Petzl carabiner
Hello from montreal
Bon jour Montreal from Vermont
When you sheath your walls to the outside corners of the sheathing over lap or is there a gap that's the thickness of the sheathing between the two? As in when a through wall and butt wall meet does the sheathing fon the through wall and butt wall over lap or do they stay separate typically?
Two questions . 1st. Explain the tape on the plate and the tape on the rake calls . What was the saw you used to cut the sheathing .mahalo
The router with the handle… I need that in my life
What’s the name of the App you use to work out your angles? I watch you guys for a refresher and use some of your ideas on my project down under. Do you have an app that converts imperial to metric. Thanks TonyO
what diablo 40teeth blade is he talking about ? im keen on trying it out ! :)
Ok, why 5 top cripples above the window? If the two outside cripples on either side below the window aren't doing anything, what are the two outside top cripples doing structurally? Unless your sheathing edge is hitting there.
continuation of the criples below the windowheader? maybe? to keep 3 studs from top to bottom?
habit, I'll delete those next time.
Isn’t the load transferring through the extra 2 cripples to the header then into the trimmers??? I would keep 5 up top rather than 3. But then again this is much lighter framing than we see with 150lb snow loads in my area.
@@jeffcobuilds2660 on a rake wall, the load path is directed down the rake rather than straight down through the wall, which is why Tim said before “we don’t really need a header on a rake wall, but the engineer spec’d it so here we are”. Even if this was the more modern version with a flat wall and a gable end truss, that window still wouldn’t need a solid header. But engineers win….always lol.
@@jeffcobuilds2660 Nope, the load from above is on the header which then transfers down the trimmer/jack studs. The double kings take the minute amount of load and those end cripples are pointless.
So you just get the Level wall height of plans and just add The 5 inch pitch on top?
Add the height of the truss or rafter given that slope
I see all videos I wanna work same jobs which state you working
[1:54] Don't blame it on the blade. We can't be changing to fresh blades all the time like we change batteries. I'm beginning to hate cordless saws for anything but quick, rough or secondary work, except maybe for cutting on the roof, esp. sheet. As much as they are hyped all over the internet and everyone is using them now, the truth is they still suck hard compared to corded saws. The power is not even close on the first cut with a fresh battery and the truth is it goes downhill fast no matter what size battery you are running. People talk about going all day or half a day on one--BS. Working Oregon winters in 30-40 degree weather, I am changing even 8ah circular saw batteries pretty regularly. The other day killed four in a row in like ten minutes trying to rip 2x6 with a cordless Milwaukee table saw. Totally useless. We should be going back to corded for another ten years.
My mistake four Weeks out! Happy New Year!!
What’s the song called? or better off what kinda music was on at the start of the video!! That was a slapper!!! I’m guessing 70s era?
I use www.soundstripe.com/ for music and it was in an 80's playlist
I would have use 6 inch fasteners in that DBL king to header bond in our jurisdiction. 1:1 for screws 1:1.5 for nails is the rule
5" - 2x1,5"=2" Into endgrain sounded short to me aswell. I guess the header won't come down due to the cripple supporting it.
Can you provide me a link to support that? I don't doubt you, I'd just like to see the reference. Thanks.
@@AwesomeFramers I can not find end grain/ edge grain fastening into LVL in any of the manufacturers installation guides. Best practices usually call for a hanger or blind hanger when co-planar to the sheathing plane.
The 1: 1 for screws, 1:1.5 for nails is a wood to wood heuristic I got from Taunton press' Fine Homebuilding back in the eighties when I was framing new construction more than the remodels I do now.
@@georgemckenzie2525 I know the rule as 1:1 for screws and 1:2 for nails, but 1.5 might be for ringshanks. That rule is just a rough guideline though and also doesn't really work with larger wood/screws. For example all the 140-400mm timber-screws I use have the same thread length, 100mm I think.
@@dabj9546 I love high strength structural lags, and use them frequently. For shear and withdrawal they are first rate. The issue is the plywood nature of the LVL construction, and between layer application of the lag. I use hangers, or steel mending plates with strap shot gun nails for this material.
In Boston, inspectors did not want to see any structural fasteners period, full stop, within 2 inches of edge or end of any LVL.
I guess I'd use them to snug up and clamp the joint prior to hanger or plate application, but pull them to fight another day.
Awesome
Tim, are you aware that there is only left channel audio sometimes on your videos?
Where did the other kyle go the One who was always in the video’s
Love the 80s music intro lol
How tall in that Rake Wall???
I don't remember, but he said a number for the stud near the ridgebeam pocket., i guess 1,5 " bottom plate, plus longest stud was 185" plus 3,25" for the diagonal through the double top plate. (=189,75")
And that is a point 3" of the ridge (beam carrying the ridge beam was 6"x6" )
So a bit over 190" (15'10")
@@bertbergers9171 Reason why I asked is because, I m going to be building a Ridge wall similar to that one. I am actually designing a home with a double shed roof, some thing like that!!!
Agreed Makita stock blades are trash, we spin Diablo in our mak saws also. I’d buy the 91/4 track saw if anyone but Makita made a 9 1/4 blade
Those stock blades from makita do nothing but bind the tool when cutting.
Great video to start my Sunday morning with but I have to say COWBOYS
Now you need to learn to walk on a rake wall 2 by 4
👍👍
Reunite Gondwanaland!!
new T shirt idea!
@@AwesomeFramers I think it was done back in the 70's, but you go dude!😁
Hallo from austria Europa
Ever nail your foot?
Nope, never even close. In fact no one here in 45 years has.
Boggling We’re watching to learn and this is over our head Is there a crayola version for dummies? We’ve built before but clearly we made a lot of mistakes Everything is still standing lol But next one we want to live in forever It would probably help if my idea for finished look wasn’t always unconventional 😂
So if you had a triple king would you label it kkk🤣
I think what you actually mean is when you're building your house do what you want with cripples but this is mine so leave me alone? Cause I'm with that.
Imagine how many less words ewe would have spoken if metric was a real thing.
32 5 and 9 would be 9753.6
@H2s Yeah nah, just 97 53.
Give the .6 to the sawdust pile.
who still uses metric?🤠
@@AwesomeFramers hopefully I’m right with my fractions but I believe it’s 9/5ths??
1 fifttie 4