@@portercreek used your link for the ferrule crimper and ferrules, probably a good idea sine my battery conductors did not all squeeze into the mechanical lug and its just a good practice to reduce thermal issues due to a crappy connection...and they were reasonably priced!
Great install. We are doing one 18Kpv/two batteries with a transfer switch to start, but want to preserve adding the second 18Kpv. How are you using such small gauge wire on your grid/load side? If it’s a feeder tap off a 200A service wouldn’t it require 3/0 copper minimum gauge? We had 2/0 on our original service allowed due to the 83% rule, but I’m not seeing how we can get down to what appears to be single digit gauge wire as you have when adding the second 18Kpv. Any input would be helpful.
So each inverter set to 68A output? is that 68A for each (L1/L2) or total output? what gauge wire from combiner to each 18Kpv? I heard you say 4/0 AL in/out of combiners which makes sense - similar to our 3/0 in/out of transfer switch and 18Kpv. If I’m seeing the big picture, the two combiners make it easier to down size wire between the two inverters because you’re protecting those lines as well as total output (200A) with breakers in the combiner. Are you using 100A breakers on the 18Kpv side of the combiners? Does this mean each 18Kpv can only bypass a % of the 200A service or can each bypass up to 200A (limited by input of course) of the grid?
I want to see a detailed schematic on the best way to wire in your transfer switch. I am about to install a similar system and also want the ability to manually switch back to grid entirely if I have a failure or need to service anything. I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to wire this and which equipment to use.
Really enjoyed this video. About to start my offgrid with one 18K and three paralleled EG4 indoor rated batteries. Question: is there a conduit box designed to mate the indoor batter to the 18K, or did you have to modify either the top, bottom or both?
great video for a DIY guy! added this question to a previous video. As you added batteries is there any requirement to balance the SOC for each battery before you integrate them into the system? is setting the dip switches for the 2nd and 3rd battery the only thing you have to do before you power up the existing 18k with the first battery? Also can you do a video showing why you needed 3 inverters with only 4 batteries. I know you can do 3 batteries for each inverter but 3 inverters for 4 batteries seems excessive so I am sure you have a use case. Again nice videos for a DIY guy, installing the batteries on the wall by myself is the biggest challenge. I also did not use any ferrules so I now ordered the crimper and ferrules as that seems better. Any advantage to soldering the ferrules on instead of crimping. Did you crimp the battery cable ferrules only once or do you crimp each one twice?
I did 3 inverters because the main purpose of this build was to sell back to the grid. The only reason I did batteries was for security. I started out with 3 and found that a 4th one would be advantageous. Batteries are expensive so I don’t want more than I need. Technically, you probably don’t have to crimp the big cables because when you tighten the screw down in it will crimp it
Nice video with a lot of good tips. I have one of the older 18K PVs with the gray cable. Does the cable only need to be replaced if you are running the 18K pv in parallel?
If you are running the 18ks with the powerpro batteries you will never need the cable that says battery on the one side and inverter on the other. The other gray cable that says parallel is good to use!
@@portercreek Gotcha, that makes sense. I thought maybe there was an issue with the cable I didn't know about. My 18kpv is connected to five Lifepower4 batteries and the cable works. However, I have experienced some odd problems with my batteries completely draining overnight with no loads. It has happened three times in five months. SS had me switch my batteries to lead-acid for two weeks to train them by changing them to 100% and draining them to 20% daily. I just switched my batteries back to lithium/EG4 on the inverter this week.
@@tri2sbr let us know how the "training" goes. I added the second battery and it does not show up on any app ie cell, 18k screen or PC. but I do have the capacity available just can't see that I have the capacity anywhere. I am on day 2 so maybe my 18k needs some remedial "training"
When using the breaker box setup for each unit what size was required main breaker and individual breaker for each unit. Also if not 200 amp seems like it would limit the pass thru ability. Installing 2 18 k next week and lile the setup. Seems lile that allows each unit to be worked on or simply removed for service with disrupting the rest of the system. Thanks any ideas are welcome
I am not sure if I understand the second part of your question. EG4 recommends 50amp with the appropriate gauge wire. You can run larger wire and bigger breakers if you need more pas through current from the grid. You would need to adjust the settings on the web interface to allow more than 50amps to pass through.
did you ever have your system so that you were installing an additional battery into an existing system. You said that it take a couple of cycles for the app to see the total battery load. I installed my second battery today and I am at 99% but I am still feeding load into the battery and it has been at 99% for awhile so it makes sense that it take some time for the firmware to figure it out. I also use to discharge the first battery down to 15% and it would then pull power from the grid and take it back to 18%. Makes me think the battery did not like being at 15% so I have now changed that discharge SOC number to 20% and will see how it goes. Thanks for your videos, most time its better to hear someone else's experience. the SS techs mean well but there are a lot of new ones and just are still reading the talking points unfortunately
@@portercreek are those 2 different setups in the maintenance menu? I set the 20% at these inputs "Start AC Charge SOC(%)" 20% "On-Grid Cut-Off SOC(%)" 20% after installing the second battery I changed the discharge cutoff to 20%. It still added 3% so I ended the morning at 23%. it did that when my cutoff was 15% too. Do your batteries float back up after cutoff 3%? it does it in 2 steps of about an hour each. SS did not know what that was and thought the battery was adding power when discharged to 15% because it was too low but is seems to be part of the algorithm. This morning I still show 280ah which is one battery on my phone app but I did discharge the capacity of 2 batteries after the initial installation so it is working, just the apps do not reflect 2 batteries.
@@portercreekso the 70 a breakers going IN to the load panel are parallel ran to energize the bussing. Then you have your 200A breaker to fuse the conductors going to the house?
They are necessary. If you don’t use them you won’t get a solid connection on all the strands which can cause them to heat up and melt down the connection. The ferrules essentially make stranded wire into basically a solid strand wire.
Hello - to be transparent I am a NOVICE with inverters. Etc. ! I am just starting down the path of receiving and installing a EG4 12Kpv. (12 not 18) … Please I need some assistance ! I am NOT installing any solar … I am just looking for a grid to inverter to battery to subpanel when the grid is down scenario. In particular I am looking for the process of feed from grid to inverter … I assumed it was thru a breaker from the main panel and if so what size breaker ? On the battery output side if the grid is down, what does the setup look like coming from the LOAD on the inverter to the critical load subpanel. If it’s a breaker what size ? I see a lot of information about the battery and inverter and almost nothing on the subpanel setup other than showing the gray exterior of the panel, if anyone has any RUclips’s or write up or anything about the subpanel that would be great. Thanks for any help or direct me to anyone/someone that can assist. BTW - I did not purchase from Signature Solar.
Selling back to the grid. Any excess goes to charging the batteries to get me through the night. I may add more batteries eventually. I installed this system with the intent of having passive income.
@@portercreekHi, impressive system! I wonder if you install this system in 2024 and NEM 3.0 applied, how you get the passive income when selling it back to the grid because they buy at a very cheap rate. Also, I thought that we need permit for that and then the electric company will limit the design (the size) of the system/array… Can you explain me this process.
Looking GREAT!!! 3 18kpv's NOICE!!! Been meaning to order one of those ratchet cutters! Used your link!🤘
Thanks!
@@portercreek used your link for the ferrule crimper and ferrules, probably a good idea sine my battery conductors did not all squeeze into the mechanical lug and its just a good practice to reduce thermal issues due to a crappy connection...and they were reasonably priced!
Great install. We are doing one 18Kpv/two batteries with a transfer switch to start, but want to preserve adding the second 18Kpv. How are you using such small gauge wire on your grid/load side? If it’s a feeder tap off a 200A service wouldn’t it require 3/0 copper minimum gauge? We had 2/0 on our original service allowed due to the 83% rule, but I’m not seeing how we can get down to what appears to be single digit gauge wire as you have when adding the second 18Kpv.
Any input would be helpful.
I have the inverter set with a max output of 68 amps ea
So each inverter set to 68A output? is that 68A for each (L1/L2) or total output? what gauge wire from combiner to each 18Kpv? I heard you say 4/0 AL in/out of combiners which makes sense - similar to our 3/0 in/out of transfer switch and 18Kpv.
If I’m seeing the big picture, the two combiners make it easier to down size wire between the two inverters because you’re protecting those lines as well as total output (200A) with breakers in the combiner. Are you using 100A breakers on the 18Kpv side of the combiners? Does this mean each 18Kpv can only bypass a % of the 200A service or can each bypass up to 200A (limited by input of course) of the grid?
Awesome system, I have installed a few double 18kpv inverters and 3 6kxps in parallel but three 18kpvs in parallel is serious. Very cool.
Thank you!
I want to see a detailed schematic on the best way to wire in your transfer switch. I am about to install a similar system and also want the ability to manually switch back to grid entirely if I have a failure or need to service anything. I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to wire this and which equipment to use.
I followed the plans in the 18k manual
Fantastic video withvery helpful tips especially about the rapid shutdown string voltage
@@leroiobi5928 thanks!
Great video! How are you using the battery grounding lugs and line tap, that are in the supplies list?
What specifically are you referring to with the grounding lugs?
Really enjoyed this video. About to start my offgrid with one 18K and three paralleled EG4 indoor rated batteries. Question: is there a conduit box designed to mate the indoor batter to the 18K, or did you have to modify either the top, bottom or both?
I used the one that came with it, no mods needed, worked great!
great video for a DIY guy! added this question to a previous video. As you added batteries is there any requirement to balance the SOC for each battery before you integrate them into the system?
is setting the dip switches for the 2nd and 3rd battery the only thing you have to do before you power up the existing 18k with the first battery? Also can you do a video showing why you needed 3 inverters with only 4 batteries. I know you can do 3 batteries for each inverter but 3 inverters for 4 batteries seems excessive so I am sure you have a use case. Again nice videos for a DIY guy, installing the batteries on the wall by myself is the biggest challenge. I also did not use any ferrules so I now ordered the crimper and ferrules as that seems better. Any advantage to soldering the ferrules on instead of crimping. Did you crimp the battery cable ferrules only once or do you crimp each one twice?
I did 3 inverters because the main purpose of this build was to sell back to the grid. The only reason I did batteries was for security. I started out with 3 and found that a 4th one would be advantageous. Batteries are expensive so I don’t want more than I need.
Technically, you probably don’t have to crimp the big cables because when you tighten the screw down in it will crimp it
Lots of helpful tips.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb happy to help!
Nice video with a lot of good tips. I have one of the older 18K PVs with the gray cable. Does the cable only need to be replaced if you are running the 18K pv in parallel?
If you are running the 18ks with the powerpro batteries you will never need the cable that says battery on the one side and inverter on the other. The other gray cable that says parallel is good to use!
@@portercreek Gotcha, that makes sense. I thought maybe there was an issue with the cable I didn't know about. My 18kpv is connected to five Lifepower4 batteries and the cable works. However, I have experienced some odd problems with my batteries completely draining overnight with no loads. It has happened three times in five months. SS had me switch my batteries to lead-acid for two weeks to train them by changing them to 100% and draining them to 20% daily. I just switched my batteries back to lithium/EG4 on the inverter this week.
@@tri2sbr let us know how the "training" goes. I added the second battery and it does not show up on any app ie cell, 18k screen or PC. but I do have the capacity available just can't see that I have the capacity anywhere. I am on day 2 so maybe my 18k needs some remedial "training"
When using the breaker box setup for each unit what size was required main breaker and individual breaker for each unit. Also if not 200 amp seems like it would limit the pass thru ability. Installing 2 18 k next week and lile the setup. Seems lile that allows each unit to be worked on or simply removed for service with disrupting the rest of the system. Thanks any ideas are welcome
I am not sure if I understand the second part of your question. EG4 recommends 50amp with the appropriate gauge wire. You can run larger wire and bigger breakers if you need more pas through current from the grid. You would need to adjust the settings on the web interface to allow more than 50amps to pass through.
Instead of using ferrules, you think tinning the wire would be just as effective?
I never thought about soldering it, I suppose that might work.
did you ever have your system so that you were installing an additional battery into an existing system. You said that it take a couple of cycles for the app to see the total battery load. I installed my second battery today and I am at 99% but I am still feeding load into the battery and it has been at 99% for awhile so it makes sense that it take some time for the firmware to figure it out. I also use to discharge the first battery down to 15% and it would then pull power from the grid and take it back to 18%. Makes me think the battery did not like being at 15% so I have now changed that discharge SOC number to 20% and will see how it goes. Thanks for your videos, most time its better to hear someone else's experience. the SS techs mean well but there are a lot of new ones and just are still reading the talking points unfortunately
When mine is on grid I have the cutoff at 20%, if the grid is down i have it set to go as low as 15%
@@portercreek are those 2 different setups in the maintenance menu?
I set the 20% at these inputs
"Start AC Charge SOC(%)" 20%
"On-Grid Cut-Off SOC(%)" 20%
after installing the second battery I changed the discharge cutoff to 20%. It still added 3% so I ended the morning at 23%. it did that when my cutoff was 15% too. Do your batteries float back up after cutoff 3%? it does it in 2 steps of about an hour each. SS did not know what that was and thought the battery was adding power when discharged to 15% because it was too low but is seems to be part of the algorithm.
This morning I still show 280ah which is one battery on my phone app but I did discharge the capacity of 2 batteries after the initial installation so it is working, just the apps do not reflect 2 batteries.
I don’t understand how you run 70A breakers but can feed 200A through them?
@@damonsmith8411if you have 3 70amp breakers on parallel it equals 210 amps. Ea one only does 70
@@portercreekso the 70 a breakers going IN to the load panel are parallel ran to energize the bussing. Then you have your 200A breaker to fuse the conductors going to the house?
@@damonsmith8411 yes, this panel is called a combiner panel
@@portercreekyes I understand that. So it’s combining the loads from grid into inverter. Then combining the loads from load to house. Understandable
@@portercreekso how would you go purely solar here if the output is only 100A per inverter. It’s upped to 70 for continuous use and #4’s
Are ferrules necessary or just recommended?
They are necessary. If you don’t use them you won’t get a solid connection on all the strands which can cause them to heat up and melt down the connection. The ferrules essentially make stranded wire into basically a solid strand wire.
Hello - to be transparent I am a NOVICE with inverters. Etc. !
I am just starting down the path of receiving and installing a EG4 12Kpv. (12 not 18) … Please I need some assistance !
I am NOT installing any solar …
I am just looking for a grid to inverter to battery to subpanel when the grid is down scenario. In particular I am looking for the process of feed from grid to inverter … I assumed it was thru a breaker from the main panel and if so what size breaker ?
On the battery output side if the grid is down, what does the setup look like coming from the LOAD on the inverter to the critical load subpanel. If it’s a breaker what size ?
I see a lot of information about the battery and inverter and almost nothing on the subpanel setup other than showing the gray exterior of the panel, if anyone has any RUclips’s or write up or anything about the subpanel that would be great.
Thanks for any help or direct me to anyone/someone that can assist. BTW - I did not purchase from Signature Solar.
With an inverter that small you are going to need to install a critical load panel. Cassette inverter won’t be big enough to run the whole house
Why do you need 3 18kpvs? As I'm not mistaken each 18kpv can handle 3 batteries and up to 18kW usable power.
Selling back to the grid. Any excess goes to charging the batteries to get me through the night. I may add more batteries eventually. I installed this system with the intent of having passive income.
@@portercreekHi, impressive system!
I wonder if you install this system in 2024 and NEM 3.0 applied, how you get the passive income when selling it back to the grid because they buy at a very cheap rate. Also, I thought that we need permit for that and then the electric company will limit the design (the size) of the system/array…
Can you explain me this process.
Looks like some awfully small load and grid wires. From the video they look smaller than the PV wires.
They are actually oversized for the rated current of the inverters.
Where did you get the box of large Ferrules?
Sorry! I thought I put it in the description but I missed it! amzn.to/4bJHZ1y