Yes indeed Mr. Colin Knecht, a very clear explanation that covers the basics for a wise saw blade's selection. Anyone of us can feel the joy of a virtual classroom. Thank you for the time and dedication that you take from your valuable time, for each delivered videos. My respects from PR.
Colin, I guess you already know how much this video was needed. You answered all of my questions regarding what blade(s) are used for certain cuts. 2 THUMBS UP 👍👍.
watched 3 videos on choosing blades.. third one was the charm. very detailed and informative. never thought i'd sub to a woodworking channel but hey.. why not :)
Exactly what I needed; I've done some woodwork in my lifetime but I'm no expert, so I appreciate all the good information I can get to do better and safer work. I will be looking forward to more of your instructional videos. Thanks!
Good job, Colin! Nobody explained this kind of stuff to me and I went years without knowing about specialized blades vs. general purpose. I thought thin kerf blades were just cheaper! Now Freud thin kerf blades are my standard blade. This presentation should clarify nicely for beginners.
Excellent video. Very informative. Explained exactly what I needed to know, without any other distracting information.Keep up the good work. I look forward to your other videos. Thanks
hi colin great informative video great help how would you rate the freud blades against the cmt im looking for a rip blade for hardwood to make some cutting boards or can you advise me on a good one i cant get a forrest as im in uk thanks
Great video. I enjoy every one of yours I've watched. One "Ooops" - go to the ~ 2:00 point in this video - and listen to what you say when concluding your comments on the Crosscut blade. You call it a "Ripping blade" several times. This could be Very confusing to a true "newbie" to woodworking and using power saws. I suggest you edit it - and put a "pop up" dialog box stating the blade is Not a Ripping blade - rather a Combination blade. In your "Woodworking for Beginners - 1" video you started out with THE MOST IMPORTANT thing First - SAFETY! I applaud you for that. You mentioned hearing protection and eye protection. I have 2 points regarding them: properly inserted foam-type ear plugs provide Significantly More sound attenuation than ear muffs - and I find them easier to "tolerate". You said "eye protection" - and some may think that $1 "readers" from a discount store is all they need. Please point out that proper eye protection entails "Safety lenses" in the frames; that $1 "readers" from the discount store don't cut it. (Intentional pun.) Lastly, re: Safety: Sawdust "control" (capture), especially the "fines", is VERY IMPORTANT. We need to be sure to minimize our exposure to that dust - both breathing-wise as well as just exposure to our skin. There are "allergic reaction" properties in a lot of the wood we cut. I know woodworkers that have had SEVERE "breakouts" / reactions to the saw dust generated when using their table saw, jointer, and sanders. To my point here: A Respirator should be worn - most especially when working a long list of woods known to be allergenic or toxic. Most of them are "tropicals/exotics" but some folks will react/break out from a number of the "domestics".
i have 60 teth 14" carbride table saw was this last longer life?..i bought last month but not yet used until now..My DIY table saw is ongoing for construction.
Colin. New to woodworking and a new subscriber. I for one appreciate you taking the time to offer this entry level institution. I inherited a table saw from my dad that sat in my basement for years. I recently had the need to do a small repair job, and dusted it off. I'm hooked now and looking to get better and safer. So here's a question so stupid I'm embarrassed to ask it. It says on the outside it's a 10 inch saw. Does that mean it should take a 10 inch blade? I bought a combination blade that I could afford and when the blade is at its lowest setting the teeth are feelable above the insert.
Hi Jeff, good quality blades are key, also lowering the blade to just just above the wood is important for safety and better cuts, of course using a push stick, but most of all, just stopping to think for a minute about what you are doing is also important. Safety is always number one ... thanks for your comments and welcome to woodworking :) Colin
Yes, good point, and coming up we will be talking about crosscutting on chop and sliding mitres ... Thanks for commenting Don, great to have you with us ... Colin
Colin.... Thank you much for a great video, and for sharing your knowledge...I've had the opportunity to watch several videos regarding the proper saw blade for different kinds of cuts. The one thing that most everyone leaves out is a good number of teeth for angle cuts (like a 45°) going against both the grain, and across it. Do you have any recommendations for that...?Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you...
Thanks Colin, very informative. I am new to table saws and I wondered what the situation is when you change blades, ie the thickness of the riving knife, does one riving knife which came with the machine do for all thicknesses of blades ?
My Skil saw came with a ripping blade on it and I just use it for EVERYTHING. Makes a rough edge on ply wood but I don't really care. I usually just run an edge pass on the belt sander anyway. I got a dado wobble blade at an auction with some other blades and thats how I found your channel! Whats the benefit of using a cross cut blade? Could I use it for everything? I mostly cut wood, plywood, and MDF. Would it just be slower on the rip cuts but do a finer job or something? I don't feel like swapping blades everytime I change direction on the cut.
Hi Colin, thanks for this, it's very useful. Is there a vernacular in regards to the shape of the notches on the blade itself? For example, what should I be looking for in a blade that's used to cut a perfectly square channel/groove into a hardwood? I need the groove to be perfectly square in order for a 6mm pice to sit neatly into it. Thank you
Another great instructional video! I am just getting started in wood working and your videos are exactly what I have been looking for; they are extremely informative and helpful, thank you Colin.
Hi Colin, I've just changed my 24T blade for a 80T to use with plywood. Done it all according to the bool but the saw is making a terrible noise so I switched it off immediately - cant fathom what I've done wrong - Help?u
I used A general purpose blade for the longest time,to cheap to spend the extra money. I was ripping some 7 quarter walnut and burning it. Went and bought a Diablo ripping blade and the difference is AMAZING! Now I have a different blade for almost every cut. You save time by changing the blade cause you get a clean cut so a lot less sanding, which saves money on sand paper so the blades pay for themselves eventually.
Thank you for taking the time and making these videos, this answers my question that if thinner blades exist and how they are compared to the full curve ones. My issue has always been with the measurement where i do not count the thickness of the blade when i make my cuts.
Thanks a lot for your teaching. But i’m wondering if i use a Freud 80 teeth blade for ripping? Is it possible? Because i do not have a jointer so i need a really smooth cut Thanks you
I own a small pallet business, we dismantle a lot of pallets. The wood runners tend to have a ton of nails in them Is there a blade I can put on my table saw and run the runners through them to cut the nails off even? Any help is much appreciateed
I bought my first ever table/mitre saw today. I haven't used it yet, but until my wood arrives next week I will be watching these 2 videos to make sure I do it right!. What do you think of the Ryobi flip over saw?
+John Jones ..he forgot to answer that last part :P The Ryobi Mitre Saw isnt bad, its ment to do 2 -3 things (straight chop, mitre cut, angle cut), all u need to worry about is if ur machine is sturdy when on an angle (strong lock mechanism that wouldnt shake or just drop while cutting) and also the blade size.. 10 inch saw blade would be a tad-bit better than a 12 just because a larger blade wobbles more than a shorter 10inch saw blade, not really noticeable but some people are picky! i own a Ryobi chop saw 10 inch blade, never had an issue, but wish i had the bevel that slides towards u for larger cross cut.. anyways i hope it answers ur question
also more teeth in blade, cleaner cut.. like finishing cuts, larger wider like the first blade he shows is more just to cut a large piece of wood or to rip thru rough lumber... im happy with the 3rd choice
+///AMG Thanx AMG for the reply. You may have noticed I have the flip over saw which is a small table saw and flips over to a mitre saw. Having used it, I find the fence angle markings are way off, and the fence "slides" really sloppy. BUT! I bought a cheap plastic 45 deg drawing triangle (really accurate!) and use that to set up my angles. I have made a couple of mirror frames which turned out very nice, and a garden bench, also very nice. The mitre part of the machine is only really good for small cuts, but fine for my purpose so far. A proper machine (Metabo) would cost me R17000, as opposed to the R4400 I paid for the Ryobi...my pension doesn't stretch that far yet!!
+///AMG You and I both! That's ALL I use on my Table Saw. A 50 Tooth Combination Blade. It will do a nice job on everything! If I want a nice Smooth Top Quality cut I'll switch it to a Planer Blade that I didn't even see mentioned here. Same thing for my Mitre Saw. I have no use for a Thin Kerf Blade. (30 Year Woodworker)
DeepOne Good to hear .... I still have all mine and hope to keep them all, not that things can't go wrong sometimes, but always working toward safe cutting sure helps.
hallo sir!!! i just want to ask if there is available in the hardware of that combination blade with 24 teeth?cause i dont have enough money to buy more saw blade...
One thing I found is when I use my thin kerf blade, the wood would start binding after the cut. I found the binding was caused by the riving knife being thicker than the blade. I have to remove the knife to use that blade. Any suggestions around this?
I always use my blade guard on my ryobi. i notice that there is a slight imperfection (not a clean cut) at the end of every board and it is always on the fence side of the blade. I think the splitter is misaligned. Is that possible, or what else might it be?
Hi Don, hmm, I'm not certain what that might be, yes it could be a misaligned splitter. I am a bit stumped with this one, maybe you could send me a pic of a mis cut end, I would really like to see what it looks like. I am also wondering if your fence is off a bit, or maybe both.
That's a great comment, yes almost impossible for woodworkers to sharpen these blades, not that the tools aren't available, but that the special angles used to sharpen the carbide tips is within so fine. I have seen home sharpeners actually ruin a $90 blade by trying to sharpen it themselves. Great comment, I will talk about this in a future vid, thanks so much for posting Colin
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w7Wf0h1Q8a4/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes indeed Mr. Colin Knecht, a very clear explanation that covers the basics for a wise saw blade's selection. Anyone of us can feel the joy of a virtual classroom. Thank you for the time and dedication that you take from your valuable time, for each delivered videos. My respects from PR.
Thanks PR for your input
Colin
You are welcome, Sir. It's a pleasure.
Clear as crystal .Thank you Colin for the brilliant presentation. Ready to have fun with the blades lol
I'm just getting into woodworking and needed to hear every bit of this!! Thank you so much for making this video!
Good job explaining . . . very simple and easy to understand and to the point - just the way I like it ! Thanks for making the video !
Colin,
I guess you already know how much this video was needed. You answered all of my questions regarding what blade(s) are used for certain cuts. 2 THUMBS UP 👍👍.
This was a great help in deciphering my table saw blade replacement. Thanks very much.
Wow... I've been using a combination blade for cutting MDF for YEARS... Next blade change its going to get a composite - thank you for the video!
Thank you, sir! Short, simple and very educative!
watched 3 videos on choosing blades.. third one was the charm. very detailed and informative. never thought i'd sub to a woodworking channel but hey.. why not :)
Very good video to explain the differences between different blades.
Exactly what I needed; I've done some woodwork in my lifetime but I'm no expert, so I appreciate all the good information I can get to do better and safer work. I will be looking forward to more of your instructional videos. Thanks!
Indio Taino Thanks for taking a moment to give feedback ... I appreciate it
Love the videos as beginner wood working this helps me out a lot.
Hi Randall, thanks for your comments, always helps to guide us as to what subscribers are looking for.
Colin
Awesome! You solved my problem with burn marks on ripping Acasia wood.
Good job, Colin! Nobody explained this kind of stuff to me and I went years without knowing about specialized blades vs. general purpose. I thought thin kerf blades were just cheaper! Now Freud thin kerf blades are my standard blade. This presentation should clarify nicely for beginners.
Thanks Michael, appreciate your feedback, it always helps us
Colin
Thanks Colin. Your expertise and tips are awesome and truly helpful. 🙏🙏🙏
More people need to see this video
I love them Freud Diablo Blades very good blade for the money. I use them in my circular saw as well.
Thanks Colin.
Hi Roland, yes, they are good blades aren't they
They sure are,and well worth the money.
Thanks, I love how you cut to the chase! Great videos!
Thanks Colin. Very informative and well delivered.
RJJFavorites Thanks RJ, appreciate you commenting
Thank-you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks. Way better info than the home depot peoples
Tito Alvarado Thanks for the comment, glad you found this useful
Thank you very much! very helping 🪵⚙️
Thanks for sharing the video, very informative
Learned something new, "kerf width". Good vid.
Excellent video. Very informative. Explained exactly what I needed to know, without any other distracting information.Keep up the good work. I look forward to your other videos. Thanks
You're Welcome Sean! Thanks for watching the video.
Thanks for the education on blades. Very useful.
krn14242 thank you for taking the time to comment
Colin
Information put in simple form like this is very useful! Thank you for sharing..
I just bought the 40T blade for my circular saw and cut plywood perfectly as well as natural wood for cross cut
I've been watching your tubes since 3 years now & yes you're Always magnificent coolin.. Thanks alot.
Very informative and helpful. Thanks
This is a great video. My son-in-law is just getting started in the field and this will be on his watch list next time I see him.
i do watch you and your work u do its great
great information thank you very much
What blade would you choice for flooring vinyl plank
This was really helpful! Thanks for sharing.
hi colin great informative video great help how would you rate the freud blades against the cmt im looking for a rip blade for hardwood to make some cutting boards or can you advise me on a good one i cant get a forrest as im in uk thanks
i have had a tablesaw for years & your information would have been nice this should help all the new people very good job
Thanks Louis, appreciate your comments
Colin
Great video. I enjoy every one of yours I've watched. One "Ooops" - go to the ~ 2:00 point in this video - and listen to what you say when concluding your comments on the Crosscut blade. You call it a "Ripping blade" several times. This could be Very confusing to a true "newbie" to woodworking and using power saws. I suggest you edit it - and put a "pop up" dialog box stating the blade is Not a Ripping blade - rather a Combination blade.
In your "Woodworking for Beginners - 1" video you started out with THE MOST IMPORTANT thing First - SAFETY! I applaud you for that. You mentioned hearing protection and eye protection.
I have 2 points regarding them: properly inserted foam-type ear plugs provide Significantly More sound attenuation than ear muffs - and I find them easier to "tolerate".
You said "eye protection" - and some may think that $1 "readers" from a discount store is all they need. Please point out that proper eye protection entails "Safety lenses" in the frames; that $1 "readers" from the discount store don't cut it. (Intentional pun.)
Lastly, re: Safety: Sawdust "control" (capture), especially the "fines", is VERY IMPORTANT. We need to be sure to minimize our exposure to that dust - both breathing-wise as well as just exposure to our skin. There are "allergic reaction" properties in a lot of the wood we cut. I know woodworkers that have had SEVERE "breakouts" / reactions to the saw dust generated when using their table saw, jointer, and sanders.
To my point here: A Respirator should be worn - most especially when working a long list of woods known to be allergenic or toxic. Most of them are "tropicals/exotics" but some folks will react/break out from a number of the "domestics".
thanks for these v. importent information
I just learned so great info. Thanks again for the great video.
Perfect, thanks for taking the time to give us feedback
Colin
your welcome.
i have 60 teth 14" carbride table saw was this last longer life?..i bought last month but not yet used until now..My DIY table saw is ongoing for construction.
Colin. New to woodworking and a new subscriber. I for one appreciate you taking the time to offer this entry level institution. I inherited a table saw from my dad that sat in my basement for years. I recently had the need to do a small repair job, and dusted it off. I'm hooked now and looking to get better and safer.
So here's a question so stupid I'm embarrassed to ask it. It says on the outside it's a 10 inch saw. Does that mean it should take a 10 inch blade? I bought a combination blade that I could afford and when the blade is at its lowest setting the teeth are feelable above the insert.
Hi Jeff, good quality blades are key, also lowering the blade to just just above the wood is important for safety and better cuts, of course using a push stick, but most of all, just stopping to think for a minute about what you are doing is also important. Safety is always number one ... thanks for your comments and welcome to woodworking :)
Colin
I like to use the ripping blade in my table saw and the crosscut blade in my mitre saw. Great videos, I like your work.
Yes, good point, and coming up we will be talking about crosscutting on chop and sliding mitres ... Thanks for commenting Don, great to have you with us ... Colin
Not to late to learn. Thank you Colin 😂
thanks for teaching, helps beginners like me alot... love your videos man, very informative...
Colin.... Thank you much for a great video, and for sharing your knowledge...I've had the opportunity to watch several videos regarding the proper saw blade for different kinds of cuts. The one thing that most everyone leaves out is a good number of teeth for angle cuts (like a 45°) going against both the grain, and across it. Do you have any recommendations for that...?Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you...
Now I have a much better understanding about selecting blades. Might explain why I get so many split ends; using the wrong blade.
Thanks for commenting Gord, yes fuzzies at the end of boards is a woodworkers bane isn't it
Colin
Just what I needed
So for ripping 3/4" thick oak hardwood flooring, I would still go with a 24 tooth ripping blade?
Looking for a "combination blade" on a 8 1/4" table saw but seems to not be able to find any, any recommendations?
Thanks Colin, very informative. I am new to table saws and I wondered what the situation is when you change blades, ie the thickness of the riving knife, does one riving knife which came with the machine do for all thicknesses of blades ?
Finally got a mitre today, after using table saw for cross cuts for 2 years. I am so happy!!
Very useful for beginners.
Thanknyou
My Skil saw came with a ripping blade on it and I just use it for EVERYTHING. Makes a rough edge on ply wood but I don't really care. I usually just run an edge pass on the belt sander anyway. I got a dado wobble blade at an auction with some other blades and thats how I found your channel! Whats the benefit of using a cross cut blade? Could I use it for everything? I mostly cut wood, plywood, and MDF. Would it just be slower on the rip cuts but do a finer job or something? I don't feel like swapping blades everytime I change direction on the cut.
Hi Colin, thank you are these interchangeable with a mitre saw? I think you meant cross cut for the middle one not ripping?
Hi Colin, thanks for this, it's very useful. Is there a vernacular in regards to the shape of the notches on the blade itself? For example, what should I be looking for in a blade that's used to cut a perfectly square channel/groove into a hardwood? I need the groove to be perfectly square in order for a 6mm pice to sit neatly into it. Thank you
Another great instructional video! I am just getting started in wood working and your videos are exactly what I have been looking for; they are extremely informative and helpful, thank you Colin.
Hi Colin, I've just changed my 24T blade for a 80T to use with plywood. Done it all according to the bool but the saw is making a terrible noise so I switched it off immediately - cant fathom what I've done wrong - Help?u
Grazie mille, your video was exactly what I need, therefore a subscription to your chanel was mandatory. Thank you for your teachings.
Nice lecture. Very useful. Thank you
You are welcome
I used A general purpose blade for the longest time,to cheap to spend the extra money. I was ripping some 7 quarter walnut and burning it. Went and bought a Diablo ripping blade and the difference is AMAZING! Now I have a different blade for almost every cut. You save time by changing the blade cause you get a clean cut so a lot less sanding, which saves money on sand paper so the blades pay for themselves eventually.
fantastic explanation...
Just Waht I need to know about blades thank you so much for the video.
Thank you for taking the time and making these videos, this answers my question that if thinner blades exist and how they are compared to the full curve ones. My issue has always been with the measurement where i do not count the thickness of the blade when i make my cuts.
Thanks a lot for your teaching. But i’m wondering if i use a Freud 80 teeth blade for ripping? Is it possible? Because i do not have a jointer so i need a really smooth cut
Thanks you
Thanks a million, it helps a lot
You're Welcome!
I own a small pallet business, we dismantle a lot of pallets. The wood runners tend to have a ton of nails in them Is there a blade I can put on my table saw and run the runners through them to cut the nails off even? Any help is much appreciateed
Thank you for this tutorial, one question, would masonite be considered MDF? If not what type of circular blade would I need to make smooth cuts with?
I actually just learned all this on my own about a week ago. Excellent data to know.
Thanks Keith, sounds like you are a bit ahead of the curve .. good one :)
Colin
great video for new woodworkers to watch
Thank you for your effort
Thanks for taking a moment to comment
Great Video
I bought my first ever table/mitre saw today. I haven't used it yet, but until my wood arrives next week I will be watching these 2 videos to make sure I do it right!. What do you think of the Ryobi flip over saw?
+John Jones Thanks for commenting, hope these will be of some help
+John Jones ..he forgot to answer that last part :P The Ryobi Mitre Saw isnt bad, its ment to do 2 -3 things (straight chop, mitre cut, angle cut), all u need to worry about is if ur machine is sturdy when on an angle (strong lock mechanism that wouldnt shake or just drop while cutting) and also the blade size.. 10 inch saw blade would be a tad-bit better than a 12 just because a larger blade wobbles more than a shorter 10inch saw blade, not really noticeable but some people are picky! i own a Ryobi chop saw 10 inch blade, never had an issue, but wish i had the bevel that slides towards u for larger cross cut.. anyways i hope it answers ur question
also more teeth in blade, cleaner cut.. like finishing cuts, larger wider like the first blade he shows is more just to cut a large piece of wood or to rip thru rough lumber... im happy with the 3rd choice
+///AMG Thanx AMG for the reply. You may have noticed I have the flip over saw which is a small table saw and flips over to a mitre saw. Having used it, I find the fence angle markings are way off, and the fence "slides" really sloppy. BUT! I bought a cheap plastic 45 deg drawing triangle (really accurate!) and use that to set up my angles. I have made a couple of mirror frames which turned out very nice, and a garden bench, also very nice. The mitre part of the machine is only really good for small cuts, but fine for my purpose so far. A proper machine (Metabo) would cost me R17000, as opposed to the R4400 I paid for the Ryobi...my pension doesn't stretch that far yet!!
+///AMG You and I both! That's ALL I use on my Table Saw. A 50 Tooth Combination Blade. It will do a nice job on everything! If I want a nice Smooth Top Quality cut I'll switch it to a Planer Blade that I didn't even see mentioned here. Same thing for my Mitre Saw. I have no use for a Thin Kerf Blade. (30 Year Woodworker)
Excelent info.
On a roll. Love the way you explain things. Onward!
Thanks Robert !!
Colin
This has been VERY helpful! Thanks so much!
A lot of useful information,
Thanks
James
watching your videos will definitely save my fingers, thank you....
DeepOne Good to hear .... I still have all mine and hope to keep them all, not that things can't go wrong sometimes, but always working toward safe cutting sure helps.
WoodWorkWeb you bet, thank you again for a well crafted video and safety tips...
Really needed this information, thanks for sharing Colin!
Thanks Brian, glad this was useful, always look forward to your comments
Colin
Once again thank you Colin, very good info.
Thanks J ... appreciate you commenting
Colin
good stuff Colin! Thanks
Thanks Gee ... appreciate you taking the time
Colin
Hey, I still owe you a picture or two of the wine bottle crate. I haven't forgot sir! Just way too many iros in the fire.
which kind of blade suit for hardwood?, e.g white oak,
ts
hallo sir!!! i just want to ask if there is available in the hardware of that combination blade with 24 teeth?cause i dont have enough money to buy more saw blade...
Thanks so much - you have de-mystified something that is so simple I was too embarrassed to ask!
Thanks for commenting Mark, woodworking has lots of little tricks and techniques and I am always learning new ones too :)
One thing I found is when I use my thin kerf blade, the wood would start binding after the cut. I found the binding
was caused by the riving knife being thicker than the blade. I have to remove the knife to use that blade. Any suggestions around this?
arent thin knifes sold?
You are a great teacher Sir.
Thank you Colin, great explanation of blades. And I agree, a good quality blade will trick out any table saw performance.
Yup .. good to hear we are all on the same page with that :)
Colin
well spent 5 minutes thank you
Thanks Phil, appreciate your feedback
Colin
thanks. this helped out a bunch. other videos i watched had 2 mins of information and 10 mins of puffing for their channel.
You're Welcome! Thanks fore watching!
Thanks a lot!
Very nice review.
Thanks for taking the time to comment
Colin
Fantastic channel. Thanks for the great info.
Great job Colin, I love these videos you have on your channel. Very informative and to the point.
I appreciate your feedback ... thanks for taking the time
Colin
Thank you Sir great video,can you tell me why are Dado blades banned in Europe,i live in Dublin Ireland.
Awesome explanation, keep up the good work!
I always use my blade guard on my ryobi. i notice that there is a slight imperfection (not a clean cut) at the end of every board and it is always on the fence side of the blade. I think the splitter is misaligned. Is that possible, or what else might it be?
Hi Don, hmm, I'm not certain what that might be, yes it could be a misaligned splitter. I am a bit stumped with this one, maybe you could send me a pic of a mis cut end, I would really like to see what it looks like. I am also wondering if your fence is off a bit, or maybe both.
Thankyou! simple and easy to understand!
You're welcome John. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video and series. Maybe a future video on how to sharpen the saw blades? :)
That's a great comment, yes almost impossible for woodworkers to sharpen these blades, not that the tools aren't available, but that the special angles used to sharpen the carbide tips is within so fine. I have seen home sharpeners actually ruin a $90 blade by trying to sharpen it themselves.
Great comment, I will talk about this in a future vid, thanks so much for posting
Colin
Du erklärst wunderbar und hast mir sehr geholfen. Danke!
Grüße aus Wien,
Erich
Erich M. Porsch Thank you Erich for taking time to comment :)
Thanks Bob